Psyched for the Summer of Riesling

Some Riesling grapes soak up the sun near the Mosel town of Bernkastel, Germany. ©IJB 

Rock on and drink Riesling! That’s the motto for the Summer of Riesling, a collaborative, season-long celebration of the world’s greatest grape. It’s a motto I fully support.

Bars and restaurants from all around the country are joining the party with Riesling-themed dinners and tasting events from June 21 through September 21. (For a list of Riesling-soaked spots in your area, click here.) These participating venues will pour three or four Rieslings by the glass all summer long, and in July at least two of those Rieslings will hail from Germany.

Why celebrate Riesling all summer long? My response is: Why the hell not? The Summer of Riesling’s web site has another explanation: “Because we must overcome this hackneyed belief that the glorious diversity of Riesling is also a fault... simply put, no grape can do what the Riesling grape can do.”

These Riesling fans are right. I love trying all different kinds of wines, but nothing tops Riesling. So, if you’re trying to beat the heat this summer, or you just want an excuse to drink great wine, why not Riesling? Of course, the Summer of Riesling is promoting the festivities using the Facebook and Twitter machines (@SummerRiesling), so it’s easy to find an event near you.

I’ll be visiting some Riesling-pouring establishments in DC this summer for sure, but I kicked off the summer a bit early with a recent Riesling tasting. Some wine nerd friends and I got together for a whole bunch of mostly German Rieslings. Demonstrating Rieslings’s diversity and aging potential, some of the wines were old, some new, some sweet, some dry. All were tasted sighted.

Here are some reasons to celebrate the Summer of Riesling (organized from oldest to youngest bottles)…

1966 Wachstum H. Schweiszthal Uerziger Würzgarten Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
A bit musty on the nose, but also some nice notes of apricot, dried mango, orange rind and crushed rocks. Still going on the palate, with flavors of apple sauce, sweet tea and dried mango. Soft and reserved, but some minerals still show through. Considering this wine is almost a half-century old, I’m impressed. (86 points)

1976 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Matuschka-Greiffenclau Spätlese rosa - Germany, Rheingau
Orange-golden color. Smells like oil, apricot marmalade and wax. On the palate, chunky mango and dried pineapple meets medium acid. Caramel, wax and nougat notes add complexity. Not subtle, but yummy. Well-aged but still alive. (88 points)

1990 Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese * - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Rich golden color. Smells of canteloupe, apricots and honey. Full of creamy apricot and white peach fruit. Zippy acid makes this easy to drink. Nutty, apricot jam flavors last long onto the finish. I’m generally a big fan of 1990 rieslings, and even though I liked this, I was expecting a bit more. (88 points)

2001 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar RuwerThis Riesling is in a superb place right now. Complex, deep aromas of white peach, lime, white flowers. The palate is rich and honeyed, with apricot and caramel, but the acid never quits. Lovely mineral, lemon peel and smashed rock flavors. Long finish with the perfect amount of sweetness. Nowhere near the end of its life. (92 points)

2002 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Smells amazing: lime, dried flowers, minerals, pineapple, lamp oil. The palate is rich and full of honey and apricot, but the acid keeps it balanced. The mineral, crushed rock aspects are great, and matched with flavors of sweet caramel apple and lemon peel. Long finish. Delicious stuff. I think it’s fair to say every other person at the tasting loved this wine. (93 points)

2002 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Berg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Golden apple colored. Aromas of oil, marmalade, minerals and peanut brittle. Dry with bracing minerals on the palate. The acid is a little lower than other bottles I’ve had, but it’s still there. Lots of apricot, mango and peach, backed up by earthy, spicy, tobacco notes. Seriously, I get flavors of chewing tobacco and mushroom, especially on the finish. Very unique and funky, but perhaps time to drink up. (90 points)

2004 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Love the aromas: intense flowers, peaches, pears and a hint of salt. The sweet peach, marmalade and green pear fruit is matched with live-wire acid. Delicious bruised apple and honeysuckle lingers with lots of minerals on the finish. A pleasure to drink, and I imagine this will continue to improve for years. (91 points)

2007 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
Another awesome Riesling from Schäfer-Fröhlich. Very light gold color. Aromas of lime, papaya, mango and honeysuckle. Juicy and full on the palate, with pineapple, guava and lemon meringue flavors. Medium acid and crystal clean minerals and slate balance out the sweet fruit. A riesling built for the long-haul, as this has a ton of complexity to unpack. (91 points)

2011 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Intensely floral and fruity on the nose. Deep and complex, with pineapple, melon, slate and orange peel. Steely acid on the palate, but lots of rich fruit, especially for a kabinett. Apple cider, cinnamon and mango mix with slate and a rush of minerals. Long, focused finish. Delicious now, but this has the stuffing to age wonderfully for five to ten years without a problem. (92 points)

Tasting Report: California Syrah & Blends

Disclaimer: I love California syrah. Unlike many of my wine nerd friends, my palate never outgrew the stuff. I drink it all year round, with grilled summer steaks and by itself on cold winter nights. Recently, I tasted my way through a bunch of California syrahs and found, yet again, why I keep coming back for more.

All wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2010 Epiphany Révélation - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $40
Love the aromatic display of sweet plums, raspberries, violets and cinnamon. Plush mouthfeel with medium-grain tannins and enough acid. The plum and raspberry fruit flavors are pure and delicious, and they’re matched with notes of clove and tobacco. I also picked up a flavor that reminded me of sweet BBQ sauce and charcoal, which I love. A hint of toast and pepper on the finish. A juicy wine with lots of personality and deliciousness. A blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache. (90 points)


This tasty syrah blend pays homage to New Orleans.

2010 Fess Parker The Big Easy - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $35
The dark plum and blackberry aromas smell roasted and sweet, and there are also aromas of tar and rich potting soil. Rich and extracted on the palate, the blackberry and blueberry fruit comes in waves. Supported by medium acid and fine tannins, this fruit-bomb also shows notes of fig paste, mocha and toasted oak. After ten minutes, just a hint of black olive comes out. Hedonistic, not much subtlety here, but up there on the delicious scale. Could use a year or two. I chuckled when I unveiled this wine and saw it was named “The Big Easy” because that name perfectly sums up this wine’s worldview. A solid blend of 66% Syrah, 19% Petite Sirah and 15% Grenache. (88 points)

2010 Fess Parker Syrah Rodney's Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $49
Lush aromas of blackberries and blueberries, caramel and charcoal. Palate is full and rich with mixed berries, but there’s just enough acid and some fine tannins, so it all works together. Dark and smoky as well, with mocha, coffee, charcoal and carmelized sugar notes. A bold, bombastic wine, but the purity of flavors and the seamlessness of the wine make it irresistible. Could benefit from a long decant or a few years in the cellar. (89 points)

From Fields Family Wines.

2010 Fields Family Wines Syrah Estate - California, Central Valley, Lodi

SRP: $22

Dark and sweet on the nose, like raspberry jam and plum cake mixed in with an earthy-smoky note. Bright plum and raspberry fruit on the palate with velvety tannins. A ripe, soft and easy-drinking approach. The toasted coconut and creamy oak is actually integrated quite well. An unashamedly fun wine that I cannot help buy enjoy. (88 points)

2009 Azari Winery Syrah Corkscrew - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $19
Smells of wild blueberry jam, plum skins, also some chocolate shavings and spiced coffee. Full and plush feeling on the palate, with fine-grain tannins. The acid is present to balance the rich plum and blueberry fruit. These white pepper and spiced coffee notes are woven throughout, and I’m really liking it. Big, yet elegant and deep, and capable of at least a few years in the cellar. It seems like it could unwind and develop some more nuance. (90 points)

2008 Azari Winery Shiraz - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $60
Aromas of plum sauce, the juiciest blackberries, along with notes of kalamata olives. The palate shows fine tannins, medium acid and loads of juicy blackberry fruit and plum fruit. Bold but still restrained, and I love the secondary flavors of potting soil, sweet cola and peppered steak laced throughout. A note of coffee on the long finish. A very nice example of Sonoma Coast syrah. I know it’s three times the price of the 2009 Corkscrew Syrah, but, in my opinion, this wine didn’t have the same levels of depth and complexity. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist, which just won Best Overall Wine Blog at the 2013 Wine Blog Awards!

Welcoming Summer with California Zinfandel & Blends

The weather has been beautiful on the East Coast these last few weeks. Almost every evening, as I’m strolling through my Northwest, DC, neighborhood, I pick up the rich, sweet smells of grilled meat. Instantly, I crave zinfandel. Here are six zinfandels and zinfandel-based blends from California that would brighten up any BBQ or patio party. 

All wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2009 McCay Cellars “Paisley” - California, Central Valley, Lodi ($28)

Juicy on the nose, with cherry and raspberries, but there’s also this complex dusty aroma that makes me think of an old library shelf. Notes of sweet incense and roses came out with time. Jammy and juicy on the palate, with medium tannins and acid. Generous cherry and wild berry fruit mixes with potting soil. Notes of fruit gum and caramel linger on the finish. Crowd-pleasing for sure, but more than just fruity. 55% Zinfandel, 45% Petite Sirah. (88 points) 

 
2010 Mettler Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel “Epicenter” - California, Central Valley, Lodi­ ($20)
Dark and saucy on the nose, with lots of plums and blackberries, along with mocha, chocolate shavings and some earthy-peppery notes. Bright berry fruit leads the way on the palate (raspberry and blackberries), the acid is medium-to-low, and the tannins show some grip. The chocolate, toasty aspects are bold but integrated. Notes of cinnamon and baker’s chocolate linger on the rich, plummy finish. (86 points) 
 

2010 Artezin Zinfandel Mendocino County - California, North Coast, Mendocino County ($18)
Smells of prunes, candied plums, milk chocolate and toasty oak. Juicy and full of ripe plum and raspberry fruit. Smooth tannins and medium acid help this go down easy. Notes of pepper, clove, green olive and smoke round out the fruit. Long finish. A fun, fruit-forward wine, but nice secondary characteristics. (87 points) 

2010 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone “Red Rocks!” - California, North Coast ($18)

Really nice mix of aromas: loam and pepper along with tart blackberries and currants. Solid depth on the palate, with velvety tannins. The fruit is tangy and tart, but not light, like fresh blackberries and currants; this is all highlighted by notes of graphite, pepper and cedar. Almost Bordeaux-like in its approach, but steeped in the tart black fruit that screams Mendocino. The producer doesn’t list what grapes are in this blend, but it’s at least partly made from Zinfandel. For a wine with an exclamation point, this is serious juice. (88 points)

2008 Chatom Vineyards Zinfandel - California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County ($20)
Clear medium ruby colored in the glass. Aromas of cranberry, red plum, smoke and vanilla. Medium-to-low acid, medium-grain tannins, this zinfandel focuses on sour cherry and red plum fruit, and there's a flavor that reminds me a lot of Thanksgiving cranberry sauce. Notes of pepper, tobacco and toast highlight the ripe fruit. (87 points) 

2010 Artezin Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley ($25)
The nose is dark and smoky, with charcoal, baked blackberry, sweet plums and brown sugar. This zinfandel is jammy and super-fruity, with gobs of blackberry and plum. The tannins, however, are quite mild. It finishes a little weak, but otherwise a pleasant, ripe, fruit-driven wine. (85 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Veuve Clicquot Takes Champagne Marketing On the Road

You know the bright orange label with the black text. You recognize it. If I came up and asked you to visualize a specific bottle of Champagne, I bet many of you would picture this very label. I’m going to claim this as fact: Veuve Clicquot’s non-vintage Champagne is one of the most well-known wine brands in the world.

This recognition is partly due to the fact that Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin produces around 7 million bottles of Champagne every year. Their non-vintage brut Champagne (a blend of 50-55% Pinot Noir, 15-20% Pinot Meunier and 28-33% Chardonnay) tastes consistently toasty, zippy and delicious, and it retails for around $40-$50, making it one of the most easily obtainable Champagnes on the market.

But, mostly, you know about Veuve Clicquot because they’re damn good at marketing.

I’m no Champagne marketing insider. I can’t afford the cover charge to that club and I don’t possess the appropriate attire. But I’ve always been fascinated by how the massive Champagne houses market their bottles. The schwag, the glitz, the color, the clothes, the sexy people, they’re selling a glamorous façade as much as they’re selling sparkling grape juice. And when it comes to selling opulence, Veuve Clicquot reigns supreme. (By the way, it’s pronounced “voov klee-koh.”)

Part of the luxury behemoth Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy, Veuve’s marketing tentacles stretch far and wide: polo classics in New York, Ferrari Formula 1 Grand Prix events in China and Barcelona, golf invitationals in Italy, beach resorts in Brazil, and a host of other “lifestyle events.” Clicquot Insight, an iPhone and iPad app, has a Vogue-like aura of glam, focusing on fashion, food, design, travel and (sometimes) wine.

Another new tool in that big marketing box is the Veuve Clicquot Airstream, a sleek, aerodynamic bullet of a minibus. This week, the silver and orange bus cut through the 92-degree Washington, D.C. heat and stopped outside two hotels, the Dupont Circle Hotel and the W Washington D.C. Part of a two-month tour of the U.S., the goal of the Veuve Clicquot bus is to get people partying with the orange label.

And it seems to be working.

On a sweaty Thursday in Dupont Circle, the minibus was crowded with curious spectators. Instead of immediately packing into the Metro, people getting off work stopped by, checked out the bus, chatted with brand reps, and ordered overpriced ($15) flutes of Veuve bubbly on the Dupont Circle Hotel patio.

  

Inside, the bus was packed with orange label knick-knacks and goodies. It boasts a few HD TVs, a cooking stove and plenty of booth-style seating. I didn’t stick around long because the bus didn’t have the air conditioning on, which, given the no-expense-spared pitch of the brand, was ridiculous. What was sold as a great way to cool down turned out to be a great way to sweat your ass off. 

But, despite the heat, it was clear from the growing crowd and the chorus of clinking glasses that Veuve Clicquot’s bus tour was a hit. With events like this, Veuve Clicquot cements their customer base and attracts a younger generation of drinkers. They work hard to ensure the orange label is synonymous with class and good times. With these kinds of gimmicks, it’s no wonder Veuve Clicquot is so internationally renowned.

And, hey, the juice is pretty good stuff, too. At a recent blind tasting of non-vintage Champagnes, I rated Veuve’s orange label brut 88 points, and the rest of the tasting panel enjoyed it as well. Here are my notes from that tasting…

N.V. Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut ($50)

Aromas of chalk, limestone and white flowers, mixed in with freshly toasted bread. The palate is creamy and tangy, with dominant flavors of fresh apple juice, toasted baguette and lots of lemon peel. The palate shows a lot of cut and a mineral-driven finish. Rich yet lean. (88 points)

For more information on orange label parties, check out Veuve’s schnazzy website.

Cheers! 

Wowed By Walla Walla Syrah

In the past decade, Walla Walla syrah has skyrocketed in fame and cost. And when you taste syrah from this appellation, you can understand why. Syrah grown in this area (which encompasses the southeastern part of Washington State and part of northern Oregon) shows incredible purity and density of fruit flavors, and the wines frequently display classic syrah themes of bacon, olive, charcoal and rich earth.

But, like every great wine region, the producer is key. At a friend’s birthday wine tasting earlier this month, I tried three Walla Walla syrahs from some of my favorite producers: Gramercy Cellars, Reynvaan and Cayuse. While all could be considering “cult” wineries in one way or another, it’s fair to credit Cayuse with much of the hype and fanfare surrounding Walla Walla syrah. Focused on dense, complex, long-lived syrahs from single vineyards, Cayuse has raked up all sorts of massive scores from the big critics. But Gramercy and Reynvaan are masters of syrah in their own right, and both produced stellar wine in the 2010 vintage. 

Here are my notes…

2010 Gramercy Cellars Syrah “John Lewis Reserve” - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley ($55)
This is a beautiful Walla Walla syrah, but it needs a long decant or a good five years in the cellar because it’s so young and compact. With swirling, the smoke, earth and black olive aromas started emerging from the depths of the blackberry jam. Full and velvety on the palate, with grippy tannins and enough acid to hold up against the density of the blackberry and fig fruit. The coffee bean, iron, corned beef and pepper flavors are just lovely. This syrah is just so young, though, and it needs a lot of time to develop. The syrah grapes (which make up 100% of the blend) are grown in the Les Collines Vineyard. They are fermented with their stems and aged in neutral oak. Only 13.9% alcohol. (93 points)

2010 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah “In the Rocks” - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley ($55)
Another great example of Reynvaan Family kicking ass with syrah. This smells of rich, dark, Walla Walla fruit (sweet black cherries, fig, hints of red plum), but also some lavender and cinnamon. On the palate, this is so juicy and rich, with pure black and blue fruits that last. The tannins have serious structure, and the acid is lively enough to balance out against the richness of the fruit. Secondary flavors of smoke, loam and dark chocolate, and I’m loving them. Another great bottle, but of course all of this producer’s wines, from all vintages, are sold out. Damn! If you’re lucky enough to have some of this, put it sideways for a few years, because it’s got a lot of stuffing for the ages. Some viognier is co-fermented with this single-vineyard syrah. (92 points)

2001 Cayuse Syrah “Bionic Frog” - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
A simply sublime syrah. Complex and profound aromas of black plum, dried blueberry, campfire smoke, rhubarb, grilled steak and charred earth. Brisk acid on the palate, with fine-grained tannins, very elegant at 12 years of age. The blackberry and plum fruit is still rich and opulent, but the non-fruit flavors steal the show: bacon, charcoal, grilled herbs, olive brine. Always expressive, but never overbearing, and a lot of this is credit to the wonderful acid. This wine is incredibly complex and has a near endless finish. It’s such an expensive and hyped wine, but like many Cayuse syrahs, I love it despite myself. I think this bottle lives up to its reputation, and it’s one of the best Washington syrahs I’ve tasted. Thanks a ton to my friend Brett for opening this gem! The cheapest I can find this wine is $275 at auction, which is half the cost of my first car. But I’d take two bottles of this over a used Geo Metro any day. (96 points)

While these wines are pricey and hard to find, they’re incredible interpretations of the syrah grape. If you’ve recently had some Walla Walla syrah, I’d love to hear about it. Cheers!

Tasting Report: Petite Sirah & Blends

Petite sirah is one of my go-to wines for this time of year, especially when I’m entertaining or hosting casual wine drinkers. Nerds and newbs alike love petite sirah’s chewy texture, the bold dark fruit, the earthy and peppery notes. It’s no wonder wine writers love talking about pairing petite sirah and summer grill-outs. Serve me a petite sirah with anything that bleeds and was cooked over fire, and odds are I’ll be happy.  

All these petite sirahs were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2009 Concannon Vineyard Petite Sirah Conservancy - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley ($15)
Gobs of blackberries on the nose, red licorice, purple Gushers candy, along with mocha and toasted coconut. Juicy and full of red and black berry fruit, this wine is jammy and thick. High alcohol is evident over the creamy-smooth tannins. Inky, but not much in the way of secondary flavors. (85 points)

2010 Concannon Vineyard Conservancy Crimson & Clover - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley ($15)
Aromas of purple taffy, raspberry jam, rose petals and toast. Soft tannins, medium acid, this wine takes a jammy, easy-drinking approach with flavors of raspberry, cherry, vanilla, mocha and toasted oak. 50% Petite Sirah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah and 10% Zinfandel. (86 points)

2010 Mettler Family Wines Petite Sirah - California, Central Valley, Lodi ($25)
Almost like paint on the nose, with these deep, brooding aromas of blackberry, plum and charcoal, along with notes of vanilla and toast. The tannins are firm but rounded, and the wine is really inky, like gobs of ink and crushed berries. The acid is a bit low for my palate, but the blackberry and plum fruit is beautifully concentrated and sweet. The charcoal note really comes into play on the palate, and the wine finishes with notes of coffee and caramel. A wine with no shame, but it’s got the depth and complexity to pull it off. This Petite Sirah includes 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in French oak. (88 points)

Photo from Fields Family Wines.

2010 Fields Family Wines Petite Sirah Estate - California, Central Valley, Lodi ($28)

A really exciting petite sirah with lots of unique characteristics. Lots of red and black cherries on the nose, with green coffee and a smell that reminds me of a greenhouse full of flowers. On the palate, chewy tannins provide structure for the saucy cherry and blackberry fruit. There’s a very distinct flavor of sweet teryaki marinade, and I get a real kick out of it. Earthy and peppery notes linger onto the finish. (89 points)

2011 Concannon Vineyard Petite Sirah Selected Vineyards - California, Central Coast ($10)
Medium purple color. Aromas of plum cake, caramel and green peppercorns. The palate shows fine tannins and juicy raspberry and plum fruit. Creamy and jammy with a solid dose of oak. There’s bitterness to this wine, like the skins and pips of the berries or something, and the finish is short. For $10, you can’t really expect much more. (80 points)

These reviews first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.