15 Vintages of Cos d'Estournel

It’s not often I get to taste 15 vintages of the same wine. Actually — wait a minute — I’ve never tasted 15 vintages of the same wine at one time. Six or eight, sure, but never have I so thoroughly immersed myself into a specific producer’s wine.

Well, what a great producer to focus on with such intensity. Cos d’Estournel is an iconic Bordeaux house, located in the Left Bank appellation of St. Estèphe. The estate dates back to 1811, and was classified as a second growth in the 1855 Bordeaux classification. The wine is usually about 75% Cabernet with Merlot rounding out the blend, and the occasional shot of Petite Verdot and/or Cabernet Franc. The wine is cherished by collectors for its long cellaring potential and appreciated by wine lovers for its rich fruit and unique spice components. As such, they’re also damned expensive. I’ll leave the full summary of this heralded estate to Bordeaux guru Panos Kakaviatos, who recently profiled this St. Estèphe property on his blog, Wine Chronicles: Changes afoot at Château Cos d’Estournel.

Panos organized this stunning tasting for a bunch of DC area winos. I had an absolute blast chatting with friends old and new, not to mention Cos director Aymeric de Gironde, who was a fount of information and a really solid dude. For a man who oversees Cos d’Estournel and worked as a manager at Krug, he’s an unassuming and humble guy. 

The food from Chef Marjorie Meek-Bradley was, as always, phenomenal, and paired wonderfully with the wines. If you don’t know about her awesome restaurant in DC’s Cleveland Park Neighborhood, you should really give Ripple a try. I’ve had more phenomenal wine dinners at this restaurant than I can count, and the food and service are always remarkable. Also, she’s currently kicking some ass on this season of Bravo’s Top Chef, and I’m rooting she wins the whole thing.

All the wines at this tasting were stored in the chateau’s cellars since release. A few bottles were corked, so some of the pours from particular vintages were a bit smaller. I really wish I could revisit all the wines individually, but it was exceptional to taste so many vintages in one go. All in all, a most memorable evening. My thoughts on the wines are detailed below.

Opening Champagne

N.V. Michel Reybier Champagne - France, Champagne
This is a new project named after Cos Chateau owner Michel Reybier. It’s a richer style with toasty bread, baked yellow apples, a bit of grip to it with notes of salted nuts and white flowers. (87 points)

Flight 1

This course was paired with lamb heart tartare made with pickled mustard seed, caper and sea salt. Aymeric de Gironde described these wines as belonging to the "same family of vintages," and the wines all do show a similarity in grip and power, the younger wines showing a bit more austerity. Beautiful wines, the three of them, but the 2006 and 2008 are so young, and the 2004 seems to be opening up a bit, but, still, it’s best days are ahead.

2008 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Smells of warm spices, concentrated dark fruit. Bold and rich with dense tannins but some velvety aspects sneak through. Rich earth, roasted nuts, cedar, cigar box and underlying spices layer the dark currant fruit. Very young (I’d love to retaste in 10 years), but yet shows an undeniably attractive essence and a surprisingly creamy finish. (93 points)

2006 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Very similar nose to the 2008 but a bit more earth and spice. Rich and opulent with firm, chewy tannins and light acid. Concentrated but some silkiness starting to appear. Lovely earth, eucalyptus and sweet spice accents to dark currant fruit. Promising, but still very young and primal. (93 points)

2004 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
The most accessible and exciting wine in the bunch, this shows warm, deep currant aromas with cedar, pencil shavings and complex spice tones. Pure and vibrant on the palate, structured for sure but showing some freshness and precision. Black currant fruit doused with earth, tobacco, hints of mushroom coming out. Opens up with air, things are starting to get interesting here, and this will have so much more to show with more years in the cellar. (94 points)

Flight 2

This was paired with some spectacular glazed sweetbreads. For my palate, the 2005 was as close to perfect as I can imagine. I’ve never given a wine 99 or 100 points before (perhaps I will always be wary of doing so), but it deserves any superlative you could throw at it. The 2003 was also exceptional, and one well-known wine industry professional in the crowd maintained this wine was his favorite, not only of the tasting but his favorite Bordeaux, period. That’s the great thing about Cos: palates differ, but I think everyone had a favorite wine in this tasting that ranked way up there on their list of top wines from the region.

2005 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
A textbook example of near-perfect Bordeaux, as far as I can tell. Concentrated but elegant aromas, rich black cherry and currant fruit, accented by gorgeous earth, incense, dried floral and complex spice tones. So elegant on the palate despite the firm structure. Seems perfectly balanced between acid, tannin and fruit. Black and hints of red currant, the fruit is so pure and precise, and backed up by curling waves of incense, cedar, fallen leaves, graphite, mocha and cardamom. Simply phenomenal, and I bet it’s just getting started. My wine of the night. A real treasure to taste. (98 points)

2003 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Darker aromas, richer, blacker fruit with hints strong aromas of clove, earth, vanilla. Full and rich with dark currant and jammy black cherries, a full and rich wine but boasting lots of non-fruit complexity: incense, eucalyptus, loam, coffee, charcoal, bitter chocolate. Stands out for its dark, richness, but it's a gorgeous wine. Rich but so sexy, this seems to be flashing all its goodness right now. (95 points)

2002 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Rich with dark plums and currants on the nose, along with earth, cedar, leather and pepper. Full but smooth, the smoothest wine so far in the tasting, still rich but accessible, even bright. Still plenty of solid tannic structure, some brightness from the acid, very pretty currant fruit doused in wet leaves, leather, tobacco. Silky, starting to show elegance. My least favorite vintage of the night, which is saying something, because this wine is beautiful. (91 points)

Flight 3

Paired with potato gnocci with a wild boar ragu sauce with rutabaga and apples.

2000 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
The fruit here is so juicy and dreamy, black cherries and currants, laced with complex spice, herbs and cocoa powder notes. Full and still quite tannic but it glides across the palate and shows some freshness. Bold, chewy black cherries and currants, and I get a load of cedar, leaves, rich earth, cocoa powder, coffee, hints of toasted almond. Long, rich, wonderfully structured for the long haul but showing a lot of stuff tonight. Tasted from magnums. (95 points)

1996 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
This wine shows a unique brightness, and I get some red fruit on the nose as well as roses, tobacco, roasted red pepper. Full but silky tannins, bright acid, the black currant fruit is mixed in with some red currants, juicy and delicious all around. Complex elements of roasted pepper, white pepper, mossy soil, wet leaves, bay leaf, oregano, wow, the complexity and length of flavors is stunning. So long and nuanced. Pure bliss of a wine, showing tremendously well but plenty of time left to go. (96 points)

1995 Château Cosd'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Dark and juicy black currants on the nose, intertwined with cocoa, menthol, roasted chestnut and charcoal notes. Rich, plummy, saucy, but shows plenty of elegance as well. The fruit is slathered with spiced tea, menthol, fallen leaves, roasted pepper, and some toasted almond and cedar. Bold and still so structured but full of earthy complexity. At this point in the tasting, I wish I could spend all evening with this wine to really appreciate its nuance and evolution. (94 points)

Flight 4

Served with a stunning duck breast with foie gras grits and baby turnips. I was shocked by how much I loved the 1985. I wasn’t the only one, but there was a whole lot of love for the 82 (no surprise) and the 89. All were amazing, but for my palate, the 1985 stood out just a bit more than the heralded 82 vintage.

1989 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Crazy how young this wine still is, yet its elegance is so attractive. Smells leafy and herbal with dark currants and stewing spices. Full and chewy, still so structured with a firm tannic backbone. Pure currant fruit is matched with complex earth, anise, charcoal, gravel, cedar, tobacco and coffee notes. Another beauty, but this one is built for many more years to come. (94 points)

1985 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
This wine stands out for its bright, red-fruited approach. Smells tangy and herbal with bright red currants, red apple peel, violets, bay leaf, cigar smoke, floral perfume - an incredibly complex and elegant nose on this beauty. Bright and clean on the palate, with refined tannins and fresh acid. The red currant fruit is laced with rose hips, white pepper, cardamom, floral perfume, oregano and tobacco. Long, crisp finish, full of complexity. So bright and sexy, and showing wonderfully. Not the most heralded wine in the lot, but for my palate, the freshness on this wine is so damn attractive. (97 points)

1982 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Smells of complex red fruits and plenty of herbs, wet earth, tobacco, charcoal and roasted peppers. Smooth, vibrant, dusty, earthy, straight-up gorgeous on the palate. Dark fruits matched with a powerful mix of pepper, soy, cedar, scorched earth, roasted nuts, leaves, mushroom. The finish is like tasting the bottom of a well-stocked spice rack, full of so many complex and nuanced elements that are so fun to coax out and analyze. But it’s easy to simply sip this and become enveloped in the beauty of it all. Not my favorite wine of the night, but definitely a stunner. (96 points)

Flight 5

Served with aged gouda and date jam. These were all tiny babies, and I’d love to redo this flight in eight or ten years.

2012 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
So concentrated, intense really, this needs a decade at least but it’s a thrilling wine at this age. Smells dense and packed with currants, almost like a barrel sample, with some roasted herbs and espresso. Full-throttle and brick-like tannic structure, intense concentration. But the fruit is pure and rich, and I get lots of vanilla, coffee, toasted almond , graphite and paved road notes. I’d love to see what happens to this wine over its long life. (93 points)

2010 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
A bit "brighter" than the 2012 aromatically, but also intense and quite compact at this young age. Dense black cherries and currants on the nose along with coffee, roasted nuts and rich earth. Full and chewy with dense tannins but there’s also a vibrancy and cleanness to the wine that makes it incredibly attractive. Rich black cherries, currants, loaded with coffee, roasted nuts, gravel, cocoa, violets, pepper glaze. Long, full, incredibly long finish. Amazing aging potential here - it’s almost a shame tasting this so young, but it’s an awesome experience to taste this wine at this point in its lifespan. Ridiculously good. (97 points)

2009 Château Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
A rich, brooding nose of black currants, even some blueberry, along with roasted almond and scorched earth. Full, rich, opulent, densely tannic and chewy on the palate. Chewy blackberry and dark currant, the rich fruit is matched with complex elements of coffee, earth, gravel, exotic spice, incense, leather. Chewy but velvety, smoky but nuanced, teeth-staining but exciting. Needs so much time in the cellar, but it’s interesting to taste this beast so young. (94 points)

Gallo Signature Series - Serious Juice from a California Giant

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

If you stroll through your nearest grocery or liquor store and take a look at the inexpensive options, odds are you’re looking at a handful of Gallo brands. From Alamos Malbec to Carlo Rossi glass jugs to Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel, Gallo has the American palate covered. A 2011 study by Phillip H. Howard at Michigan State University found Gallo maintained an almost 23% share of the U.S. wine market.

Brothers Ernest and Julio Gallo founded the E. & J. Gallo Winery in 1933, pitching camp in Modesto, California, where the firm is still headquartered. The company’s tremendous success was built on providing consistent, inexpensive wines to fit specific niches in the American wine consumption puzzle.

Over the years, the company has expanded its approach to incorporate a wider range of the wine spectrum. Gallo of Sonoma offered American wine drinkers (my 21-year-old self included) an introduction to Sonoma wines at a very reasonable price. Other mid-level brands like Frei Brothers and Ghost Pines highlight different California regions and styles. And international labels in their portfolio, like Italy’s Brancaia and Australia’s Clarendon Hills, offer collectors much to appreciate. 

In the past few decades, Gallo has upped the ante in California. They acquired Napa’s Louis M. Martini winery and the William Hill Estate winery, allowing them access to a wide variety of quality Napa fruit. With the purchase of Louis M. Martini, Gallo also obtained Sonoma’s heralded Monte Rosso Vineyard (which I visited in October). The company also bought Russian River Pinot purveyor MacMurray Ranch. Add in some Chardonnay from Edna Ranch in the Central Coast and Frei Ranch in Sonoma. Along with their acquisitions, Gallo still holds lots of family vineyard land in various spots. Basically, they’ve got quite a lot of supply options. 

With their Signature Series, Gallo is sourcing fruit from some of its best spots to produce a range of classic varietal wines: Russian River Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, Dry Creek Zinfandel and Napa Cabernet. The wines are made by Gina Gallo, Julio’s granddaughter. The labels carry the Gallo name front and center and cost $33-$50. I think the company is hoping consumers will see past any outdated jug wine connotation and realize that Gallo produces some seriously good juice.    

I recently tasted through the lineup of Gallo Signature Series, which were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2013 Gallo Family Vineyards Chardonnay Signature Series - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $33
Rich golden color. On the nose, I get nutshell, almonds, nougat, which adds texture to the yellow apple, apricot and honey-glazed pear notes. Rich texture, bold but balanced with some bright, clean acid. Flavors of baked yellow apples, apricot jam, juicy green and yellow pears, I also get notes of almond, peanut shell and nougat. The richness is balanced by notes of white flowers, chalk and sea breeze. Aged 12 months in new French and American oak. 14.8% alcohol, maloactic fermentation with lees stirring, the whole deal, so you need to embrace the richness. But it’s a balanced richness, with vivacity. From Laguna Ranch, Del Rio and Two Rock Vineyard. (90 points)

2013 Gallo Family Vineyards Pinot Noir Signature Series - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
SRP: $33
Juicy, deep ruby/light purple color. Aromas of dark cherries, juicy plums, some blueberries tossed in. A classic blend of cola, toast and peppery spice notes on the nose as well. Full-bodied and quite rich at 14.7%, but the moderate acid keeps the wine moving forward on the palate. Flavors of black cherries, fleshy but crunchy plums. The oak is generous, with toasted almond and mocha notes woven into the overall package, but the wine brings enough other elements to balance it out. I get tobacco, cola, dusty earth, roasted chestnut. A rich and plump wine, but well-done stuff, especially for the price. The fruit comes from Olson Ranch, (which also goes into some of Gallo’s MacMurray Ranch label Pinot). (89 points)

2013 Gallo Family Vineyards Zinfandel Signature Series - Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Wow, the aromas of really popping with these deep, dark, juicy elements of blackberries, dark cherries, blueberries. I also get notes of rich dusty earth, cocoa powder, spicy tobacco, toasted coconut. Full-bodied and burly on the palate, some moderately fresh acid, but this is a concentrated wine with some significant grip to the tannins. Black and blue berry fruit, the fruit is quite concentrated but shows a crunchy edge, too. Elements of tobacco, mint, some leafy-loamy, sweet herbal notes. Rounded out with toasted coconut and roasted coffee. A frankly beautiful wine despite the richness. Gallo has access to some really high quality Zinfandel, and this is legit example of it. In my mind, a $50 Zinfandel has to be both a) immediately pleasurable b) showing potential to improve significantly with years in the cellar. This has both. I’d love to retaste in four or five years. The fruit comes from Chiotti, Fox Ranch, Frei Ranch, Monte Rosso and Stefani Vineyards. 15.5% alcohol, aged 9 months in French and American oak. (91 points)

2012 Gallo Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Rich purple color. Compact at first on the nose, this takes time to open up to show tart cranberries mixed with black currant and blackberry fruit, lots of concentration to the fruit but also some earth, pencil shavings and charcoal aromas as well. Full-bodied, tannins show strength but they’re also quite velvety and the wine has a rounded, robust feel to it. Black currants mix with some tart red berry notes. Rich earth, loamy, dusty with notes of sweet pipe tobacco, eucalyptus and roasted red pepper. Really interesting flavor profile on a well-structured wine. Worthy of some years in the cellar, but pleasant now in a robust way. 14.9% alcohol. 87% from William Hill Estate Vineyard, 13% from Monte Rosso in Sonoma. Includes 3% Petite Verdot. (90+ points)

Dry January? Nah, Wine & Healthy Lifestyle Pair Perfectly

It’s a New Year, and we’re all supposed to make some sort of resolution to change things. Eat healthier, get more exercise, etc., etc. — these declarations of intent generally require more self-restraint and less indulgence. 

But wine can (and in my opinion, should) be an integral part of a healthy lifestyle. In 2016, I plan to surf as much as I can (which is always my resolution), travel to new places, keep up with my workout regimen and drink more sparkling wine. 

The holidays are over, but why not keep the bubbles flowing into the new year? Champagne and Champagne-method sparkling wines from other regions are bright, crisp, complex and wonderfully for pairing with shellfish, fish, salads, all the things you're telling yourself you need to eat more of in 2016. 

Read the whole post on January’s installment of Snooth’s Wine Writers Round Up: http://www.snooth.com/articles/nobody-talks-about-wine-in-january/?viewall=1#ixzz3xM7HSsYe

Three Moderately Priced Bottles from Columbia Valley

As I detailed in a September 2015 report, Columbia Valley is a huge area with multiple sub-appellations. And winemakers throughout this region are sourcing large amounts of quality grapes to use for moderately priced but interesting wines.  Long Shadows, a side project of Washington powerhouse producer Chateau Ste. Michelle, produces a wide array of classic Columbia Valley wines. The high-end bottles are quite good, and pricey, but they also produce a more accessible range of wines called Nine Hats.  

Inconceivable is a label that sources wines from all over, Columbia Valley to California's Central Coast, even an interesting Sicilian red blend. 

These three wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2014 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley

SRP: $12
Light gold color. Boisterous aromas of white peaches, kiwi, lime juice, mixed in with some sweet yellow flowers and honey. Crisp acid and a bright personality on the palate. Juicy green apples and green melons with lime drizzled on top. The fruit is topped with what tastes like a dead ringer for crushed Sweet-Tart candies, these sweet chalky notes but they’re so tart and tangy. Orange peel and clover honey notes linger onto the finish. Crunchy, tart, so food friendly but easy to sip on its own. (87 points)

2013 Long Shadows Wineries Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Smells like all sorts of jam (blueberry, blackberry, raspberry) some sweet vanilla, milk chocolate and roasted coffee. Full-bodied and rich presence on the palate, medium tannins and medium acid. Lots of dark fruit jams, mixed with vanilla cookies, coffee, cedar, some black tea and black licorice. The alcohol shows through a bit (14.9%), but it’s a fun, big, chewy red blend. 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah, 22% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese. (86 points) 

2013 Inconceivable Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose of black currants, tart blackberries, mocha, cedar and violets. Medium-plus bodied with some moderate acid and lightly structured tannins. Framed by tart black fruit, accented with vanilla, mocha, some mint and tobacco notes. Smooth, silky, ready to go but not lightweight. 88% Cabernet with dashes of Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault, aged 22 months in half-new French and American oak. (87 points)

Wine Reviews: Delicious California Rhone Reds

This post was first published on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

This week's tasting report is short and sweet: 5 California Rhone wines that rock. If Claifornia Syrah and Grenache-based blends are your thing, $30 can get you a whole lot of deliciousness. Additionally, Shafer's Relentless Syrah is a teeth-staining ball of awesome that deserves the praise it gets. It's not cheap, but wow.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2012 Qupé Syrah - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $30
Deep-ruby color. Jammy black cherries on the nose along with a whole lot of black pepper, add in some smoke and beef broth. Medium-plus-bodied, dusty tannins, refreshing acid, adds up for a silky but fresh mouthfeel. Juicy yet tart fruit (black cherries, red and black currants). Lots of smoke, charcoal, graphite and black pepper. Mocha and cedar notes woven in well. Good to go, but I’d like to revisit this in three years to see more of these savory elements. Mostly Bien Nacido fruit with 25% from the Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, the wine is aged 22 months in 25% new oak. (90 points)

2013 Anaba Turbine Red - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma ValleySRP $28
Bright ruby color. Nose: Juicy dark cherries, sweet raspberries, notes of cola, rhubarb pie and lavender as well, opens up quite nicely. Chewy yet velvety texture, solid tannic grip, moderate acid, it’s all working really well together. Black cherry, blueberry and raspberry jam fruit, the fruit is dark and rich but open as well. Notes of cola, black pepper, leather, grilled mushrooms and dark earth add lots of complexity. The coffee, cedar and vanilla notes are woven in well and don’t overpower the other elements. Could definitely use some time to unravel, but a very pretty wine. A blend of 42% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 28% Syrah, aged in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 KITÁ Syrah Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP $30
Juicy purple color. Rich blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry fruit, but the non-fruit complexities explode from the glass (black pepper, soy, charcoal pit, roasted nuts and coffee). Medium-to-full-bodied, moderate acid, a fleshy wine with a velvety approach. The blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit is fully ripe but maintains a tart, crunchy edge. Complex black pepper, mushroom, balsamic, roasted herbs, so much savory complexity. I also get notes of coffee, cedar, sarsaparilla. Long finish, this needs years to fully express itself, but so much going on here. 13.5% alcohol, all Syrah, aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 KITÁ Spe'y Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez ValleySRP: $30
Medium intensity, bright ruby color. Aromas are gorgeous: black cherries, tart red currants, roses, violets, pepper, bay leaf, rhubarb, just a whole lot of aromas to unpack. Medium-full bodied with full but smooth tannins and a bright, refreshing acidic presence. THe fruit is pure and delicious (juicy black cherries, raspberries, crunchy plums and currants). Non-fruit complexity all over the place: cola, rhubarb, sarsaparilla, clay soil, pencil shavings, nuanced kisses of oak and coffee. Long and complex but leaves the palate refreshed. I'd love to taste again in three-to-five years. A beautiful blend of 58% Grenache, 21% Syrah and 21% Carignan, aged 18 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2012 Shafer Relentless - California, Napa ValleySRP: $85
Almost pitch colored. A dense and brooding wine that will take a long time to coax out all the nuances, but I get a mix of roasted fig, juicy blueberries, tart black currants and plum skins, along with tar, violets, white pepper, rich earth, mocha and anise cookie, hints of savory spice. Massively full-bodied and so chewy on the palate, sturdy tannins but not abrasive, some moderate-low acid ties it together and keeps it from feeling too heavy. The blueberry, black cherry and black currant fruit is pure, tart and juicy with intense ripeness all at once. I get complex notes of pepper, soy, violets, mint, root beer, toasted oak, mocha. Such a long finish, a bit of heat is my only complaint. A dense brick of a wine, yet it’s complex and focused. Very young wine with a very long life ahead. Syrah with 11% Petite Sirah, aged 30 months in all new French oak. (93 points)

Wine Reviews: Italian Grab Bag

The Sudtirol appellation of Alto Adige is home to some seriously good Pinot Grigio.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

A lot of wine-lovers are skeptical about Pinot Grigio, and rightly so. All of us have been thoroughly bored by insipid Pinot Grigios from various Northern Italian regions. But, like every large production category of wines, there are producers taking it seriously. For around $20, producers in Alto Adige are crafting some really bright and compelling wines —three such wines from the 2014 vintage appear in this report.

Add in an exciting Soave Classico for $20, the ever-reliable Veronese red blend Palazzo Della Torre, and a few others, and you have yourself a good spread of Italian bottles.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2014 St. Pauls Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $24
Pale straw color. A bit more tropical aromatics here (papaya, guava) on top of limes, fresh flowers and salty air. Waxy feel on the palate but precise acid. Orange peel and papaya flavors, drizzled with lime, topped with honey and peanut shells. An underlying sense of chalk, jetty rocks and mineral. (87 points)

2014 Cantina Produttori Bolzano Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $17
Deeper straw color. Aromas of lime pith, green apple peel, cut flower stems, hints of cucumber water. Bold presence on the palate with a creamy texture but the acid screams across the palate, this is a very lip-smacking white but by no means lean. Crunchy green fruit, also very chalky and smoky with white tea, chamomile and cucumber. Long, zesty finish with lingering sea salt and lemon meringue. Amazing stuff for the price. (89 points)

2014 Muri-Gries Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $19
Pale straw color. Smells of clean laundry, bright limes, kiwi, green apple, breezy air and white flowers. Crisp and clean on the palate but a nice silky mouthfeel. Bright and zesty with nuanced kiwi, tangerine and lime fruits. Notes of quinine, white tea, saline and a smoky-mineral touch. Bright and zesty but enough texture and structure to make it pop on the palate. Medium-long finish. Exciting, versatile stuff. (88 points)

2014 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $20
Medium yellow color. Refreshing and floral on the nose, I get cut flower stems, honeysuckle, crusty sea salt, lemon peel, green pears. Bright acid on the palate, a very clean and precise wine with a moderate amount of creaminess. Green pears and lemon/lime fruit abound. So delightfully gluggable but I’m impressed with the complexity. Lots of minerals, chalk, floral and spice potpourri, almond skin. Lovely stuff that is sure to please all kinds of palates (and wallets). 85% Garganega and 15% Trebbiano, 12% alcohol. (88 points)

2012 Inconceivable Wines Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $25
Juicy ruby color. Smell of rich red berries and plums along with roasted earth, baking spices and tobacco. Medium-full bodied with some refreshing tartness and legit structure from the tannins, which all combines for a chewy but tangy feel. Tart black cherries and red currants mix with elements of green coffee, raspberry tea, sweet cocoa and some dusty, earthy accents. Impressive structure but also straight-up fun and tasted. A bit modern with its oak and velvety feel but plenty of savory Sicilian elements, too. 50% Nero d'Avola, 30% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Frappato, aged 18 months in half French, half American oak. (88 points)

2011 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $23
Bright ruby color. Aromatic right away with juicy black and red currants and plums, the fruit is tart but juicy and I get an interesting mix of eucalyptus, smoke, cocoa powder and balsamic aromas as well, and it all works together very well. Juicy red and black fruit on the palate, this takes a smooth approach with a dusty-fine tannic structure and medium-plus acid. Lots of spice elements to unpack (pepper, rhubarb, balsamic) with some sweeter notes of caramel and coffee. Always reliable, tasty and good for the money. 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese. Great value, as is usually the case with this wine. (88 points)

2010 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
SRP: $85
A compact wine out of the bottle, but air and time coax out all sorts of deep, roasted, dark essences — blackberry-currant jam, dark chocolate shavings, dried violets, cocoa powder. On the palate, this is a full and surly wine with tight-fisted concentration and strong dark fruit (roasted plums, tart black currants, dense blackberry). Sturdy tannins, medium-low acid, a bold and demanding presence on the palate. Despite the richness it maintains a velvety quality that is really attractive. I get dark chocolate and roasted nut notes along with some violets, smoke and tilled up soil. A long, warm finish, rich but so smooth. It’s very impressive at this young age, but the realization of its full quality is a decade away. 90% Corvina, 5% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta, 15.9% alcohol. (90 points)

<85 points
2014 Criterion Collection Friuli Grave Pinot Grigio - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Grave
SRP: $11
Pale yellow color. Nose of juicy white peaches, kiwi and pineapple, some baby’s breath. Medium-light bodied with a pleasantly creamy texture, medium-low acid. Yellow apple, sliced peaches, some mango, but not much else. Simple, pleasant, uncomplicated. (83 points)

2011 Criterion Collection Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $14
Medium ruby color. Tart currants, cranberry sauce, rose hips and toast on the nose. Tart acid, light tannins, a bit crunchy and overly tart but shows a nice range of red fruits (red currants, Thanksgiving cranberry sauce) backed up with notes of tobacco, toasted nut and soil. Perfectly pleasant and shows well for the price, a simple wine to drink in the near term. (83 points)