Gallica - Superb Wines From Diverse California Sites

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

When it comes to long-running Napa winemakers, Rosemary Cakebread’s resume is legit. Since 1979, she’s been immersed in the Napa wine scene, from a cellar job at the famous Inglenook Winery, to a winemaking gig at Cabernet heavy-hitter Spottswoode, to crafting sparkling wine at Mumm — she knows her stuff.

Rosemary Cakebread. Photo Credit: Meg Smith.

A UC Davis grad, Rosemary started Gallica in 2007 so she could, “do what I wanted to do.” She focuses specifically on single-vineyard wines from organic sites, branching out to work with Albarino and Rhone varieties in the Sierra Foothills and Santa Lucia Highlands. Named after an ancient variety of European rose, Gallica pays homage to Rosemary’s love of aromatics in wine, which shows wonderfully in the four wines I’ve tasted.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Gallica Albariño Rorick Heritage Vineyard - California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

SRP: $36 

Medium gold color. Aromas of honey, cantaloupe, peach nectar, along with floral perfume, honey and hints of sea spray. Medium/full-bodied with a very creamy, almost waxy mouthfeel but there’s such pleasant acidity that keeps this wine fresh. The palate gushes with peach, orange peel, apricot jam, along with honeycomb, floral perfume and glazed nuts. A more hedonistic style of Albarino, this is absolutely delicious yet it stays so fresh and vibrant. This gets a bit of skin contact and also includes a dash of Muscat Blanc. This wine comes from a 2,000-foot, steep volcanic slope called Rorick Heritage Vineyards, and the average age of these Albarino vines is 20-25 years. A treasure of a site, and what awesome fruit. This is Rosemary Cakebread’s first white wine under the Gallica label, and she said she aims for lots of texture in her white wine, so she nailed this. What I love is the way that texture aligns with such vibrant acidity for a real sense of balance. 180 cases. (90 points)

2014 Gallica Grenache Red Wine Shake Ridge Ranch - California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

SRP: $50 

Vibrant ruby color. Gorgeous nose of raspberries, red currants and pomegranate, along with notes of iron, crushed rocks and spiced black tea. Full but balanced between medium tannins and crisp acidity. Bright red cherries and pomegranate mixes with darker cherry and plum, the fruit is ripe and vibrant and laced with notes of sage, tobacco, scorched earth, sweet clove, crushed rocks. I get this fascinating smoked meat and chorizo note that comes out more and more with time. Packed with flavor but so refreshing, too. A blend of 53% Syrah, 34% Grenache, 11% Mourvedre and 2% Viognier. Aged 17 months in 50% new French oak. 213 cases. From a site in Amador that sits between 1,500 and 1,700 feet in elevation. (91 points)

2014 Gallica Syrah Soberanes Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

SRP: $60

Dark, saucy purple color. Aromas of rich black cherries, tart plums, scorched earth, charcoal, bacon fat and black olives. Plush and velvety on the palate, such intrepid balance between sturdy tannins and fresh acidity. Tart but rich fruit (black cherries, blueberries), gushing but refreshing and crunchy at the same time. The fruit is smothered in anise, grill smoke, charcoal, dark coffee, cedar, hints of vanilla. Seriously, the finish reminds me of a plate of delicious cured meat and olives, and it’s fantastic. A beauty to taste young, but this has five to eight years written all over it. Lots of complexity and elegance to unpack. 65% whole cluster fermentation, 153 cases. (93 points)

2013 Gallica Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Ranch Vineyards - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $160

Deep purple color. Gorgeous aromatic display of enticing black currant, dark plums and black cherries, topped in menthol, tobacco, cigar shop, graphite and complex earth notes. Full-bodied but pure and balanced. Dense, bold tannins but excellent balance from the acidity. Black cherry, blueberry, plums, saucy but full of tartness. Complex waves of cedar, pencil shavings, charcoal, iron and dusty soil cascade over the palate, and I get flavors of herbs, violets, potting soil and minerals as well. So complex, this needs lots of time in the cellar to show its best, but this is absolutely gorgeous. Includes some Cabernet Franc, this is sourced from a site in Oakville’s eastern hills, between 800 and 1,400 feet. 249 cases. (94 points)

Côtes de Bordeaux Offers Accessible Merlot-Based Reds for $10-$16

I don’t drop lots of dough on Bordeaux futures and I don’t collect a lot of Bordeaux — but I sure do like drinking it. Of course, most of the really good stuff is very expensive. But there are a range of lesser-heralded appellations producing more approachable, and affordable, Bordeaux.

The four Côtes de Bordeaux appellations were created in 2009, and the rules for the appellations laid out in 2011. These four Côtes de Bordeaux appellations (Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon, and Francs) amount to about 9% (about 5.3 million cases) of Bordeaux’s total production. Of the Côtes, Blaye is by far the largest area, comprising more than 14,000 acres, while Francs is the smallest (less than 1,000 acres). Spread across the hillsides of the right banks of the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers, these appellations are dominated by plantings of Merlot. The grape amounts to 50-70% of total plantings in each appellation, with the rest a mix of other Bordeaux varieties. And even though these are inexpensive wines that most consumers won’t bother to cellar, each of these wines could improve with air, a good decant or even a few years in the cellar.

I recently tasted through four such wines, one from each appellation. They’re all priced between $10 and $16 a pop, so they’re a great way to introduce yourself to Bordeaux without much expense.

2012 Château Lauriol - France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Côtes de Francs
SRP: $16
Light purple color. Aromas of juicy black cherries and dark plums, rocky soil, sweet violets, chewing tobacco and coffee. A tangy acidic presences keeps this fresh, and the tannins are moderate in strength. Tart black cherries and plum skin, mixed with loam, pencil shavings, violets, and mint. A bit tart but tight at the moment, this will likely improve for more than a handful of years. 100% Merlot. (86 points)

2012 Château Le Grand Moulin Collection Grande Réserve - France, Bordeaux, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $12
Light purple color. A burst of paprika, white pepper and roasted game hit me on the nose (which I like), but there’s plenty of bright red currant and some darker cherry aromas, too. Tangy and bright on the palate with some dusty but structured tannins. The red and black currant fruit is fresh, a bit compact in its youth, but pretty. I get a whole lot of menthol, grilled steak and paprika flavors. This has me craving barbecue badly. Thing is, it stays quite fresh and lively, although the tannins could use some time to smooth out. 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. (87 points)

2014 Château Paret - France, Bordeaux, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

SRP: $10
Deep ruby color. Bright red currant and tart plums on the nose along with rosemary, sage and pepper. Medium-bodied with medium-strength tannins and tart acidity. There's a smoky tar note and some pepper, graphite and herbs that accents the juicy plum and currant fruit. Needs some time to open up, but very impressive for a $10 Bordeaux! Merlot with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. (87 points) 

2014 Château Lamothe de Haux - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $16
Deep ruby color. Lots of dusty earth and red flower aromas on top of tangy cherries and red currants. Tart acidity mixes with medium tannin on a medium-bodied frame. Red currant and bright red cherries blend with potting soil, tobacco and a bit of coffee. Refreshing, simple, the most accessible in its youth of the four wines. 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. (85 points)

A Tasting of German Wines - More Than Riesling

I’m a huge fan of German wines, although I too often focus solely on the country’s greatest contribution to the world of wine: Riesling. Of course, Riesling is one of, if not the, greatest grapes in the world, and its ability to translate terroir into the glass is second to none. And while vineyards in the Mosel, Rheingau, Pfalz, Rheinhessen, and other regions, produce some of the world’s best Rieslings, Germany is home to lots of other grapes.

I recently visited with some old friends from the Carroll County (Maryland) chapter of the American Wine Society of a tasting of German wines. It was great to catch up with a bunch of old wine friends and taste some diverse German wines, including some Pinot Noir (sometimes referred to as Spätburgunder on German wine labels) and Pinot Meunier.

Below are my notes on a few fun (and quite inexpensive) German wines.

 2015 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rose - Germany, Pfalz
$15
A bright and floral aromatic display. Lots of texture here but bright acidity keeps it refreshing. Watermelon rind and crisp strawberry mix with a hint of floral spice. Lots going on here. (87 points)

2014 Weingut Robert Weil Riesling Trocken - Germany, Rheingau
$24
So many rocks and flowers and shells on the nose, also lemons and limes. Slight spritz, tart acidity, rushing minerality, a large dose of lemon/lime and some mountain stream elements. So vibrant with a hint of sweetness. (87 points)

2014 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir - Germany, Pfalz
$14
Smells of white pepper, roses and sour cherries. Some structure here despite being so light and crisp. Spicy herbal notes accent the tangy red apple flavors. A bit simple, but I like the brisk, refreshing appeal of this Pinot Noir. (85 points)

2013 Weingut Darting Pinot Meunier Trocken - Germany, Pfalz

$25
Love the aromas: spicy black pepper and green herbs, loamy soil, on top of red apples and sour cherries. On the palate this sports refreshing acidity on a frame of noticeably grippy tannins. Plenty of fruit in the form of ripe cherries and plums, but I love the non-fruit complexity: black pepper, smoke, earth, cedar and dried roses. Very pleasant now, but this could improve over the next three to five years. (89 points)

2014 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett -Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
$22
Smells of honeys, peach nectar, guava, honey and oil. Sweet on the palate but clean and lip-smacking acidity keep it rather balanced, although this does show its sugar throughout. Flavors of beeswax and honey mix with guava and pineapple with an underlying sense of minerals and crushed rocks. I bet this will be even more delicious in three to six years. (89 points)

2013 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
$35/375ml
Gorgeous nose of pears, honey and apricots. Exotic and floral on the palate but buttressed by lively acidity. Nectarine, peach nectar, pineapple, honey, mixed nuts, dried flowers. Lots going on here. Rich and unctuous but finishes clean. I’d love to retaste in five or six years. (90 points)

Wine Reviews: Grab Bag from Chile and France

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

We’re back with a grab bag of wine samples from all over the world. This report includes a bunch of wines from Chile’s Concha y Toro (always a reliable producer), including the heralded Don Melchor Cabernet. We’ve got some Champagne, a perfect holiday Port, and some exciting wines from Roussillon.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Concha y Toro Chardonnay Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Limarí Valley
SRP: $22
Golden yellow color. Aromas of green and yellow pears, apricots, almond, honey butter, white flowers. Creamy palate but precise acidity, this vibrant Chardonnay shows a nice mix of bruised yellow pear with tart green apples and limes. Nougat and peanut shell notes matched by chalk and lingering minerals. Crisp throughout, but enough richness for fans of bolder Chards to enjoy. Long, lip-smacking finish. Aged 11 months in French oak. (89 points)

2014 Concha y Toro Carménère Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Rapel Valley, Peumo
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Aromas of tart black currants, blackberry and juicy plums, along with grilled green herbs, tar and campfire smoke. Plush and juicy texture on the palate, a kicking balance between fleshy tannin and medium acidity. Smoky earth, tobacco, anise, vanilla and coffee coat the black cherry and deep black currant fruit. Complex earth and pine forest notes come out with time. Delicious now, should get prettier over the next two or three years. Includes 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 16 months in French oak. (88 points)

2014 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Marqués de Casa Concha - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. Aromas of smoky charcoal, scorched earth and sweet pipe tobacco blend nicely with black and red currants. Medium/full-bodied with saucy tannins and rich fruit, but the wine maintains a fresh tang. Flavors of black currant and black cherry mix with coffee, charcoal, cigar lounge, rounded out with vanilla and clove on the finish. Ready to go but could age for a few. Includes a combined 8% Cab Franc, Merlot & Syrah, aged 16 months in French oak. (88 points)

2013 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto

SRP: $125
Medium purple color. Dense at first, but it opens up nicely as air coaxes out these waves of black cherries, dark currants, and lots of loamy soil, roasted herbs, graphite, coffee, and some tar and mineral notes – wow. A young wine with moderate grip to the tannins, there’s plenty of refreshing acidity that completes this wine and makes it delicious to drink young. The fruit is like a fresh blend of blackberry, dark plums, currant and blended with anise, charcoal, dense chewing tobacco, coffee grounds, vanilla, cedar planks, mint – holy smokes this is complex. Lots of vanilla and wood but enough other elements to balance it all out. 2013 was a very cold year, and it shows, as this is a much less compact, and far more fresh and tangy iteration of this classic Chilean Cabernet. Not as age-worthy as more classic vintages, but I love this fresh vintage signature. Includes 9% Cabernet Franc, the wine is aged 15 months in 2/3 new French oak. (92 points)

N.V. Forget-Brimont Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Bright strawberry/copper color. Smells of red apples, strawberries, kumquat and some biscuits and chalk. Crisp and tingly on the palate with flavors of red apples, white cherries and strawberries. Notes of white flowers, chalk and shell add some moderate complexity. Light and refreshing. Not too complex or deep but it’s straightforward, good stuff that’s put together well. (87 points)

2015 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon
SRP: $15
Light yellow color. Aromatically, we’re dealing with juicy peaches, pineapple and some tangy lime notes along with white flowers and a hint of ocean breeze. Light, fresh and zippy on the palate but there’s a pleasantly waxy texture that makes it a lot of fun. Creamy peaches, pineapple, lime, with dollops of sea salt, cut flowers and honeyed tea. Crisp, clean finish. A very solid and reliable wine for the price. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Macabeu and Vermentino. (87 points)

2015 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Rouge - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
SRP: $15
Medium ruby color. Juicy black cherry aromas with dusty earth, pepper, clove, sage and bay leaf notes. Medium-bodied on the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Black and red cherry fruit, some pomegranate, with a good mix of earth, charcoal, grilled herbs and pepper. Smooth, fresh, fruity but earthy, this would be fun with all sorts of food. A high quality bistro kind of wine. A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. (87 points)

2010 Agly Brothers Côtes du Roussillon - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon
SRP: $38
Very dark color. Smells of jammy black cherries, deep blueberries, and a complex mix of graphite, anise, charcoal, dark soil and tobacco. Full-bodied with dry, structured tannins and some moderate acidity, this is a massive wine (15.5% alcohol) but it shows mystique underneath. Blueberry, blackberry, rich saucy fruit, lots of earthy complexity (soil, leaves, scorched earth, wood shavings) with some spicy anise and tobacco. Bold and boisterous but tight-fisted with lots of cellar potential. A blend of equal parts Carignan, Syrah and Grenache. Fermented in concrete, aged about 20 months in used French oak, followed by 18 months aging in concrete and 1 year in bottle before release. This is a cooperative project between Ron Laughton of Australia’s Jasper Hill and Michel Chapoutier. (91 points)

N.V. Warre Porto Otima 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $26/500ml
Rich amber color. Aromas of roasted figs and apricot marmalade, caramel and brown sugar oatmeal. Rich texture on the palate but lots of vibrancy. Flavors of yellow raisins and apricot jam, along with dark chocolate with orange peel, honeycomb and roasted nuts. Delicious and rich but shows pleasant acidity and lightness despite the weight. Bottled 2015. (89 points)

Wine in the Wilderness - Exploring Humboldt's Lost Coast

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

No highways cut through here. Mountains drop precipitously into the Pacific Ocean. Everything is wet and the nights are long and cold. This mountainous coastal region of northern Mendocino and southern Humboldt Counties, called the Lost Coast, is the largest stretch of coastal wilderness in the lower 48 states.

I came here for the waves, the stoke, the mountains, the serene darkness of the forest. And, yes, the wine. They make damn good wine out here.

I visited Andrew Morris, the winemaker and proprietor of Briceland Vineyards, on a rare warm and sunny morning in November. The sun poked through after a terrible downpour that lasted all night (a local told me it rained four inches). My friend and I were forced to bail, soaked and frozen, from our flooded tent and sleep in our car. In the morning, we checked the surf, but the tide was dead high, making it impossible to reach our spot. So we grabbed some coffee and drove over the mountains to see Andrew. The drive east on Shelter Cove Road could be described using any or all of the following words: gorgeous, sketchy, stunning — holy shit, bro, you’re way too close to the edge! — mindboggling, etc.

When rainstorms come early, they can be a big threat to the grape harvest, but the grapes had been harvested more than a month ago. My brother, travelling buddies and I visited the Lost Coast in full-swing rainy season. But we lucked out, and only got one soaking wet night out of five. Even when it’s not actively raining, the Lost Coast is a wet place. The air tasted of mountain stream and I could watch individual droplets drift in the thick fog. Cold mountain streams cut through forests, waterfalls pour down rocks cliffs into the sea, dense fog packs narrow valleys, rich moss and ferns pad the ground while massive redwoods block out the sun. After a soaking wet October, mushrooms flourished in the woods. My brother is a mushroom foraging guru, so I just followed his lead and cooked the mushrooms he said were both safe and tasty. 

Hand-foraged mushrooms sautéed over a campfire, paired with Humboldt Pinot is an epic palate experience.

This is an extreme place in every way, and that’s why we came. The weather swings can be extreme. Ditto for the waves, which ranged in size from pumping 10 feet to death-defying 30 feet. My brother and I, lifelong surfing buds, caught some incredible waves, but also spent too much time underwater, getting worked by the cold, chunky surf and currents. Here, the surf is sketchier, the waters sharkier, the roads hairier, and the marijuana smells much, much better. In this environment (like all of the challenging regions home to great wine), growing wine grapes needs to be done with extreme care.

A “good vintage” in Humboldt, Andrew said, would start without a late spring frost, which can damage grapes during critical growing stages. A good vintage would have plenty of ripening days — a certain amount of days with proper sunlight, providing what is needed to fully ripen grapes. And while Humboldt gets fewer ripening days than California regions further south and inland, it’s still ahead of Burgundy. I hear they make some decent Pinot there. A good vintage would also end without an early appearance of autumn’s cold and rain. And, preferably, a good vintage would be free from forest fires, which break out during the dry season and threaten these small, rugged vineyards with smoke taint. Despite these pitfalls, when a finished Pinot Noir or Zinfandel from Humboldt makes it through, the result can be phenomenal.

Take Andrew’s Pinot Noirs, sourced from several single vineyards in southern Humboldt County. These wines are lower in alcohol (usually in the low 13% range) and packed with lip-smacking acidity. They’re incredibly fresh and food-friendly and lack any brazen new oak influences or baked, extracted flavors. The tannins are present and provide structure (combined with the acidity, this makes for great aging potential), but they’re very accessible in their youth. No dark roast coffee or caramel-cola stuff going on here. These are anti-Kosta-Brownes, and I’m stoked they exist.

Andrew studied winemaking at the UC Davis extension and apprenticed with his father-in-law, Joe Collins, Briceland’s founder and winemaker. Gradually, Andrew took the reins. With consummate attention to detail and high technical knowledge, Andrew wanted to keep the reputation of Briceland’s wines going strong.

Andrew and his wife Rosie of Briceland Vineyards.

In the 1970s, Joe Collins began experimental plantings in Humboldt, which was considered by many in the growing California wine industry to be too cold and wet to grow proper wine grapes. But small growers scoped out the right spots, the right grape varieties, and they made it happen. Briceland quickly developed several sources of high quality fruit, most of which are small parcels carved into the forest on steep slopes. By 1985, Joe Collins and Maggie Carey launched Briceland Vineyards.

Like most commercial outfits in Humboldt, this is a boutique operation. Andrew releases only 1,500 cases of wine per year, and about 75% of that never leaves the area. Briceland sells a lot of its wines in restaurants (of which there are few) and local shops. (If you’re headed to Shelter Cove, the General Store has an awesome selection of Briceland’s wines and a bunch of local brews — highly recommended). About 75% of Briceland wines come from Humboldt, while Andrew also works with some really good Mendocino fruit.

I’ve been a huge fan of Mendocino wines for years (and a big fan of the few Humboldt wines I’d tasted), so it was fascinating to taste Andrew’s Syrahs and Zinfandels back to back, one of each from Humboldt and Mendocino. The Mendocino stuff has a bit more richness and darker, sunshiny fruit, while the elegance and tart freshness of the Humboldt fruit really shines through.

There are two ways to get your hands on these wines. You could travel to the area, which will be epic, I guarantee it. Or maybe you could contact Briceland directly. But if you love the adventure of wine, and you’re open to this style, you’ll be thrilled. These wines range in price from about $21 for the white wines to $35 for some of the single-vineyard Pinots — all absurdly reasonable for the high quality of the juice.

Below are my notes on the wines I tasted with Andrew.

2015 Briceland Vineyards Gewürztraminer Ishi Pishi Ranch - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
An exciting, zesty, bone-dry version with tropical fruit and floral spice on the nose. Crisp acidity, medium-bodied with a slightly creamy mouthfeel and flavors of peaches, guava and honey to mix with minerals and white pepper. Delicious, lip-smacking, endless food pairing options. (89 points)

2015 Briceland Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Humboldt County - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
A vibrant and zesty Sauvignon Blanc with white pepper, lemon and peach aromas. Crisp and very bright with complex elements of salty spice to accent the lemon and green melon fruit. (88 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Arneis Spirit Canyon Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Smells of peaches, white flowers, lemon oil and a hint of pepper. So bright and clean on the palate with a salty appeal on top of lemon, orange peel and kiwi fruit. Delicious, nervy and intriguing. Not much Arneis in California, but Mendocino is home to some very good stuff. (90 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, North Coast, Humboldt County

Very pretty aromas of tart and spicy cherries, mint and earth. Bright acidity and moderately structured tannins, the cherries are crunchy and delicious and laced with notes of sweet flowers, strawberry greens, clove and an underlying mineral freshness. An eye-opening wine. (90 points)

2013 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir Ronda's Vineyard - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Aromas of gushing cherries and raspberries, lots of rose petal and eucalyptus, too. Lush palate with soft tannins and bright, crisp acidity. Waves of tar black cherries and strawberries, the fruit is laced with notes of spicy clove, wet leaves and mossy earth. Complex, vibrant, straight-up delicious. A uniquely Humboldt Pinot that hails from a 1,600 foot, South-facing slope planted in 1983. (92 points)

2013 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir Phelps Vineyard - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Aromas of juicier, darker cherries with some raspberries and fresh herbal notes. Juicy and fleshy but structured tannins and crisp acidity. Flavors of cola, rhubarb and raspberry leaf tea accent the cherry and strawberry fruit. Lovely spicy complexity. (91 points)

2013 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir Alderpoint Vineyard - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
These Pinots keep on firing. This one shows more smoky earth, violets, savory spices on top of juicy cherries. Smooth, fresh and juicy with complex spice, leather and earth accents on top of tart strawberries and cherries, hints of cola and eucalyptus. (92 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Pinot Noir Alderpoint Vineyard - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Sweeter cherry fruit than the 2013, with that same spicy/savory quality and smoky earth. Silky, smooth but tart acidity, the tart red fruit is complex and so bright. Notes of earth, clove, savory mushrooms. Wow, such a pretty wine. It opened up a lot (as friends and I drank the rest of the bottle with dinner). Huge hit. (92 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Zinfandel Ishi Pishi Ranch - California, North Coast, Humboldt CountyLove the aromas of tart red fruit and spice. Silky, fresh and spicy with rose petals, earth and spice. Wow. If tasted blind, I could see mistaking this for a Pinot but, when sipped after Briceland Pinots, this shows more sweet flowers and earth. Lovely stuff. (91 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Zinfandel Dark Horse Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
This vineyard shows aromas of darker cherries and clove. The fruit is (relatively) darker than the Ishi Pishi, showing more black cherry and blackberry, but still so fresh with medium/light tannins. I get notes of clove, tobacco and cola. A vibrant Zinfandel, very interesting to taste back-to-back with the Ishi Pishi Ranch. (90 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Syrah Ishi Pishi Ranch - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Gorgeous aromas of red and black currants topped in black pepper, roasted red pepper and charred herbs. Juicy and so darn fresh on the palate with moderate/light tannic structure. Red cherries, a touch of black cherry, topped in scorched earth, violets, black pepper, beef broth and cured meat. Delicious flavors, this is an intriguing and complex Syrah. (91 points)

2014 Briceland Vineyards Syrah Dark Horse Vineyard - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Smells like juicy black cherries, leather and spicy pepper. Chewier texture than the Ishi Pishi Ranch, this shows bright acid and medium/light tannins. Red and black cherries topped with pepper, violets and baking spices. So fun and juicy but surprisingly complex. (90 points)

2012 Briceland Vineyards Noir D'Orleans Ishi Pishi Ranch - California, North Coast, Humboldt County
Smells of dark plums and currants topped in loam and spicy clove. Rich but fresh, tart and vibrant, structured nicely with firm tannins. Bright black currant and crunchy plums and notes of peppercorns, roasted red pepper, loamy earth and spiced coffee. Seems like a good one to bury for a few years. Dominated by Petit Verdot, with some other Bordeaux varieties. For those tired of heavy, oak-slathered California Bordeaux reds, try this zesty number. (90 points)

If you're interested, I put together a four-minute GoPro video of my surf adventures here: 

Wine Reviews: California Chardonnay & Sauvignon Blanc

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Winter is on its way, and here in the Mid-Atlantic it’s already cold, windy and dark most of the time. Sure, it’s prime time for burly red wines, but I sip whites all year round. I cook a lot of vegetarian dishes, so I always have chilled white wines around, and sometimes I just can’t handle to density or tannic bite of a young red wine.

I recently tasted through a few Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs from California, and found a lot to like.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.

2015 Matchbook Chardonnay Old Head - California, Central Valley, Dunnigan Hills
SRP: $15
Medium yellow color. Smells of bruised yellow apples, apricot, white peaches, and the fruit is topped with honey and toasted nuts. On the palate this shows plump and honeyed texture with medium-low acidity. Juicy pears and bruised apples fruit, rich and generous, mixed with honeyed tea, buttered popcorn and some toasted nuts. A bit simple, but fun stuff if you like this style. Aged in about 20% new oak barrels. (85 points) 

2014 FEL Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $48
Rich golden color. Aromas of bruised apple, baked pear, apricot, along with some hazelnut and dried honey, some yellow flowers and orange blossom. The aromas get really complex and expressive with air. The palate is full-bodied with a creamy texture but the acidity is bright and vibrant. Juicy peach and pear fruit combines with banana and baked apple. Complex secondary flavors of hazelnut, almond, honeycomb, finishes with a spritz of acidity and minerals. Very impressive now but should improve nicely in the cellar. Aged two years in 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2014 Stonestreet Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $40
Bright gold color. Aromas of peach, glazed apple, honeysuckle, and an interesting mix of sea salt and caramelized nuts. Full bodied and rich but generous acidity, the bruised apple and baked pear fruit mixes with bright white flowers and a refreshing chalky sense. Fresh and complex, but lots of that classic honey and nutty richness. Aged 11 months in about 40% new French oak, this is a blend of estate grapes from sites on the western ridge of the Mayacamas. (88 points)

2015 La Voix Chardonnay Here and Heaven John Sebastiano Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

SRP: $55
Medium gold color. Gorgeous aromas of oranges and lemon curd topped in sea salt, crushed rocks, talc, honeysuckle — wow! Medium-bodied on the palate with brisk acidity and lots of saline and minerals. Juicy apricot, lemon curd, orange peel, mixed in with complex notes of white tea, honey, chalk and salted almond. Exciting with its intense flavors but there is so much freshness and depth in this wine. I think this will be fascinating in three or four years, too. Native yeast fermentation, aged in old oak barrels, this is a thrilling wine for fans of more restrained Chardonnay. (93 points)

2015 Quivira Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $24
Pale straw color. Smells of white peaches, nectarines, some honey and hints of white pepper. Bright and lively on the palate with a medium-bodied frame and pervasive acidity. Guava, peach and nectarine mix with tart green apples and limes for a focused combination of fruit. Notes of chalk, salted almond, sea breeze and minerals linger on the long finish. Crisp but packed with flavor. Mostly stainless steel but 40% is fermented and aged in a mix of new and used French oak and Acacia wood. (89 points)

2014 Stonestreet Sauvignon Blanc - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

SRP: $35
Very bright yellow with a hint of green. Aromas burst open with lemon, lime, kiwi, sea shells, hay and cut flower stems. Zippy acidity combines with some generous texture, this is wonderfully balanced. Bright lemon, kiwi and ruby red grapefruit play nicely with these notes of dandelion, flower stems, and there's a pervasive sense of minerals and rocky stream. Long, intense finish with chalky mineral notes. Bracing yet gorgeous Sauvignon Blanc. 70/30 stainless steel and old foudre fermentation, 13.5% alcohol. (91 points)

2015 Galerie Sauvignon Blanc Naissance - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $30
Pale gold color. Smells of salted limes, kiwi, green apples and lots of rich yellow and white flowers. Crisp and bright with a moderately creamy mouthfeel, the white peach, apple and lime juice drizzled on papaya meets chalk, minerals and white flowers. So zesty and clean but enough complexity to keep this seriously interesting. Where a lot of Napa Sauv Blancs get hedonistic, this is nuanced and intriguing. This spends time in a mixture of stainless steel, concrete and new and used French oak with six months on the lees. (90 points)