Wine Reviews: California New Releases

This week, I’ve got another roundup of new releases from all over California.

I recently tasted two new releases (an Albarino and a Gamay Noir) from Eighty Four wines. This Shafer side project, based in Carneros and named after the year in which Doug Shafer and winemaker Elias Fernandez began working together, has impressed me in the past, and these two wines continue that trend.

Well-known producer Cliff Lede’s new Sauv Blanc and Cab Sauv have a lot to offer, while Frank Family’s new Carneros Pinot and Chard consistently deliver.

South African-born winemaker Graham Weerts, who now makes his home in Sonoma, produced two solid wines under the Legacy label. And a few exciting wines from Lodi make an appearance in this report as well, including a thrilling, old-vine Carignan.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites

2018 Beckmen Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $20
Pale straw color. Nose shows lemon, grapefruit, along with verbena, lemongrass, musk, sea salt and light perfume. Lovely texture on the palate with vibrant acidity, and integrated creamy and honeyed lemons. Lemon, cantaloupe, green apples, the fruit is mixed with lemongrass, green onion and verbena, but this notes accent, they don’t dominate. Lovely Sauv Blanc for the price. All stainless steel, no maloactic fermentation. (88 points)

2018 Acquiesce Ingenue - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $32
Light straw color. The nose is super tropical with white peaches, pineapple, papaya, lots of baby’s breath, honeysuckle and sliced cucumber notes as well. Crisp and bright on the palate with a nice mix of papaya, peaches, drizzled in lime. I get strong floral perfume, nettle, wild greed herb notes, too. Fun, fresh, with a crisp, spicy, salad-friendly appeal. 35% Grenache blanc, 35% Clairette Blanche, 20% Bourboulenc, 10% Piquepoul. (87 points)

2018 Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. A burst of aromas: lime, apricot, white peach, with salted almond, honeysuckle, chalk dust. On the palate, this is lively but creamy, with bright acidity supporting deep texture. The fruit (orange, apricot, lemon) is infused with some honeysuckle, sea salt, oyster shell – a really cool combo. The green elements in some Sauv Blancs are dialed back, and the pure, mineral, brightness really shines through, this is a beautiful Napa Sauv Blanc, and really exciting for the price. Fermented in a mix of French oak, stainless steel and concrete eggs, this includes 10% Sémillon, 3% Sauvignon Vert. (91 points)

2018 Eighty Four Wines Albariño - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. Lively aromas of yellow flowers, honey, sea salt, with lemon, apricot and white peach. Medium+ bodied, really fresh and inviting with pleasant texture and crisp, lip-smacking acidity. Lemon curd, apricot and white peach fruit mixes nicely with chalk dust, salted almond, hints of mint and basil. Lovely depth yet this is s vibrant and gluggable, a great wine to drink all Spring and Summer. This spends four months on the lees in stainless steel (no oak, no maloactic fermentation). (89 points)

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, apricot jam, baked apple, with nougat, honey, salted almond and fresh biscuits. Juicy and plum on the palate with rich texture and medium acidity. Flavors of glazed pear, apricot, orange marmalade, along with notes of almonds, sea salt, honey butter, biscuits and ginger. Warm yet fresh, bold but nuanced. A fine Carneros Chardonnay, as to be expected from Frank Family. Aged nine months in a third new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Legacy Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $75
Rich, almost neon color. Nose of buttered popcorn, peanut shells, on top of baked apple, orange marmalade, with ginger, almond cake, sea salt notes. Rich, bold, waxy, honeyed, this is full-throttle in style, but it has freshness underneath, too. Warm and nutty with buttered popcorn, salted almond, peanut brittle, with apricot and yellow apple fruit. Big and luscious but well-made with underlying perfume and floral notes. Fermented and aged 12 months in French oak, 37% new. (89 points) 

Reds

2016 Prie Vineyards Carignane Ancient Vine Spenker Ranch Vineyards - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $29
Bright ruby color. Gorgeous nose: raspberries, red cherries, strawberries, topped in spiced tea, rhubarb, clay, dusty earth, an elegant, evolving aromatic display. Medium/full-bodied with smooth tannins and vibrant acidity, the balance is lovely. Strawberries, cherries, raspberries, crunchy yet deep fruit with elements of spiced tea, rhubarb, anise, tilled soil, herbs and rose petals. Complex, elegant, wow, this is really impressive stuff. (92 points)

2016 Mettler Family Vineyards Pinotage - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Nose shows saucy black cherries, roasted plums, raspberry jam with anise, sweet chai, dark chocolate. On the palate, this is velvety and smooth with fresh acidity and tart but sweet fruit (fig paste, roasted plums, black cherry jam), with anise, earth and cedar notes. This is fun, juicy, spicy stuff, and a rare iteration of California Pinotage that is worth checking out. (87 points)

2017 Eighty Four Wines Gamay Noir - California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Aromas of raspberries, fresh cherries, along with violets, spiced tea, clove, earthy-charcoal notes. Full-bodied (14.9%) with dusty, smooth tannins and refreshing acidity. The fruit is ripe and juicy (raspberries, black cherries), and touched with notes of miner, violets, earth, along with some cola and birch notes. Lots of fun, but the complexity and depth are in here, too. I’m a big supported of American growers working with Gamay, and it seems this producer has found quite the spot for it. The first vintage of this wine, and they’re off to a great start. Aged 14 months in 40% new French oak barrels. (90 points)

2017 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $38
Deep ruby color. Nose of raspberries, cherries, plums, juicy and rich but spicy and lively, too, along with notes of clove, rose petals, rhubarb, cola and cedar woven in well. Full but fresh on the palate with velvety tannins and moderating acidity. Juicy raspberry, red plum, cherry pie, rich fruit but lively and nuanced. Notes of rhubarb, violets, clove, cola and spiced black tea. Velvety and fruit-forward, but also nicely balanced and integrated. Aged 10 months in one-third new French oak. (90 points)

2016 Rombauer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Bright purple color. Aromas of juicy, warm black cherries and cassis, laced with lavender, clove, coffee, earth, touched with cedar and vanilla. Full-bodied with a velvety, slightly chewy mouthfeel, but clean, refreshing acidity keeps it lively. Cassis, black cherries and plums are mixed with a good amount of espresso, mint, lavender, bay leaf scorched earth – really nice mix of flavors. An underlying rocky/mineral element underneath, rich but lively. Drinking well now but could age. Includes 8% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged 16 months in 80% new French oak. (90 points)

2016 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. The fruit is deep but tart on the nose, with waves of black currants and blueberries, laced with spicy pipe tobacco, violets, earth, mint, clove, vanilla. Full and velvety on the palate, serious structure but it’s smooth, and the acidity is quite fresh, keeping it vibrant. Laced with complex tobacco, dusty earth, with clove, earth, lavender, vanilla, cedar. An underlying graphite and mineral element that is so good. Just gorgeous now, but it will be a real treat with age. All Cabernet that spends 20 months in 100% new French oak. (94 points)

2016 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $78
Really bright purple color. Nose boasts black currants, cassis, plums, rich and loaded but mixed with a host of coffee, cocoa, anise, mint chocolate chip, roasted herbs and graphite. Full-bodied and big on the palate (15.2%) but it’s built well with solid grip, enough acidity to hold it all together. Rich and velvety with waves of plums, black cherries and blueberries. The fruit is mixed with complex earth, graphite, iron, anise, along with coffee, mint chocolate chip and cedar. Accessible and delicious now but plenty of time ahead. Includes 11% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in about half-new French oak. (92 points)

2013 Legacy Winery Legacy Red Wine - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $100
Medium purple color. Deep, gorgeous nose of cassis and black currants, laced with a complex mix of earthy, smoky savory notes (charcoal, mesquite, grilled meat, black olive, pepper) with notes, also some vanilla, cedar. Structured but velvety on the palate, full but fresh, with moderating acidity. Rich blackberry and tart black currant fruit, topped with generous notes of charcoal, graphite, bay leaf, pepper, earth — the savory and spicy elements in here are lovely. I think age has really done wonders for this wine already, but it has many years of evolution ahead. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, aged 26 months in 62% new French oak. (93 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Exploring Some Tasty, Rare, Alpine Wines

Dominique Belluard's Gringet vines. Credit: Selection Massale.

I've recently written about some high elevation wines from Arizona and Argentina. I'm fascinated by wines grown in high altitude vineyards. Maybe it's because of the novelty. Maybe it's because I love mountains. Or maybe it's because I find many of them to be crazy delicious.

Whatever the reason, I was excited to get together with some wine nerd friends for a dinner with a loose theme of "Alpine wine."

When you think of the word "Alpine" you, like me, may think: Switzerland. Well, the Swiss make some really good wine, but not much of it. They drink most of it themselves (smart folks, the Swiss), and little of it gets exported. As such, there's only a single Swiss wine in this bunch.

But we did gather up several wines from France's Savoie region (pronounced "Savv-WAH"). This region in far eastern France stretches south from Lake Geneva, abutting Switzerland, and has long been known as a source of après-ski wines. The vineyards are spread out in small enclaves, planted in diverse soils made up of glacial deposits, alluvial soils, lime-rich soils, clay, etc. Some of the grapes here are more recognizable (Roussanne, Chardonnay), but a lot of them are either indigenous or relatively obscure. In terms of white grapes (whites make up the majority of wines from this region) the popular ones are Jacquère, Altesse, Chasselas and Gringet. Mondeuse, Persan, Gamay and Pinot Noir lead the red grapes. While these wines are easier to find here in the States than Swiss wines, let's put them in perspective. Savoie wines make up less than 1% of France's total wine production. But, as this tasting demonstrated, there are some winemakers here doing fascinating things.

Valle d'Aosta is Italy's smallest, least populous region, dwarfed by neighboring Piedmont in terms of size, wine production, and international recognition of the region's wines. This mountainous region where Italy, France and Switzerland meet, is home to the highest elevation vineyards in continental Europe. The topography is so extreme, the amount of land available to plant vineyards is limited, and some of the vineyards are planted at elevations higher than 5,000 feet.

Lastly, we included a few wines from France's Jura region. This region isn't as topographically extreme as the other regions but the vineyards are still planted between 800 and 1,300 feet. The region isn't far from the Alps, this tasting group all loves Jura wines, and we're not sticklers for rules, so we included a few Jura wines into the mix as well.

Lastly, to top things off, I included a wine from the winery who holds the highest elevation vineyards in the world: Bodegas Colomé. Located in Argentina's Salta region, the winery itself sits at 7,500 feet, but it's Altura Máxima vineyard tops out at a mind-boggling 10,000 feet.

My notes on some fascinating and unique wines are below.

N.V. Lambert de Seyssel Seyssel Petit Royal - France, Savoie, Seyssel
This was a lot of fun, a Pet-Nat blend of Molette and Altesse. Rich nose of peaches, lemon curd, candle wax. Rich texture, nice depth, but really zippy and salty as well. Subtle bubbles, creamy-lees notes add texture. I really liked this stuff. (90 points)

2017 Renardat-Fâche Vin du Bugey-Cerdon - France, Savoie, Vin du Bugey-Cerdon
Perfumed and floral on the nose, with candied red fruit mixed with tea, herbs, cinnamon. Sweetness balanced by vibrant acidity and slight bubbles. Juicy, candied red fruits mixed with cinnamon, herbs and tea notes. Fun, crushable stuff. 7.5% alcohol, this is a unique méthode ancestrale blend of Gamay and Poulsard. (88 points)

2016 Robert Gilliard Fendant Les Murettes - Switzerland, Valais, Sion
Well, this was a pleasant surprise. At first it smelled quite “neutral” but with air and warmth it opened up to show peaches, lemon crème, airy/floral notes. Nice depth of texture, a waxy feel but bright acidity. Dusty mineral and chalk notes with hay, honey. Pleasantly subtle and nuanced. Made from the Chasselas grape (a.k.a. Fendant). (89 points) 

2016 Domaine Belluard Gringet Vin de Savoie Les Alpes - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie
Dense nose – there is a lot in here – but it breathes and show lemon curd, honey, sea salt. Killer depth on the palate, there’s this plump texture but the acidity and minerality are laser-liked, focused, and pristine. Pretty apples and lemons mixed with minerals, smashed rocks, chalk dust and salted almond. Deep, pretty, this really started to sing after a few hours open. My wine of the night. (93 points)

2014 Domaine du Pelican Savagnin Ouille - France, Jura, Arbois
This wine evolved a ton with air. Deep yellow color. Heavy aromas, this is a dense wine, but it opens to show honey, nuts, nougat, saline, seaweed and a big heaping portion of lemon crème pie. The palate shows really rich texture, and the oak is evident, but there’s still this great saline aspect and crisp, crunchy acidity. Deep yellow fruits laced with minerals, honey, almond and salted butter. There’s a lot going on here, and it got more and more expressive. I’d love to see what this does with five to eight years of age. (92 points)

2016 Lucien Aviet Arbois Cuvée des Docteurs - France, Jura, Arbois
The funk blew off to show red apple, spiced tea, pepper and green herbs. Bright and spicy with raspberry and red apple peel, dusty tannins. Zippy and spicy with pepper and herbs. This got more and more smooth and refreshing with air. (90 points)

2016 Château de Merande Mondeuse La Belle Romaine - France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Arbin
So much laffy taffy on the nose, along with pepper and black tea. The palate is dry, the tannins seem a bit bitter and green, medium acidity. Juicy purple fruit mixes with smoky earth, pepper and black tea. Interesting stuff, but not a very balanced wine. Maybe it deserved more time and air. Made from Mondeuse Noir. (85 points)

2017 Domaine des Ardoisières Vin des Allobroges Argile - France, Savoie, Vin des Allobroges
Loving the nose here, as it’s a big mix of spices and savory elements (pepper, leather, spiced tea, scorched earth) on top of juicy raspberries and black cherries. Plush texture on the palate, with dusty tannins and really lively acidity, the balance is lovely. Juicy raspberries and red apple doused in pepper, anise, charcoal, with smashed rocks and mineral notes. This got more and more expressive with air, and it was my favorite red of the night. A Gamay and Persan blend. (92 points)

2016 Grosjean Petite Arvine Vigne Rovettaz - Italy, Valle d'Aosta
Fascinating stuff. The nose is steely and floral with honey and lemon curd. Creamy depth on the palate but there’s bright acidity and a good dose of saline-infused mineral goodness. Fresh and vibrant with yellow apple, lemons, rich fruit but complex non-fruit elements as well. Balanced, complex, a lot going for it. (91 points)

2016 Bodega Colomé Malbec Estate - Argentina, Salta, Calchaquies
Deep purple color. Aromas are dark and tart with blackberry, blueberry, plum, with lots of loamy earth, cocoa, mint and graphite. Tangy acidity frames the wine nicely, balancing the moderate tannins, the balance is on point. Blackberry and tart blueberry, laced with mineral, graphite, earth. So pure and lively, this is showing very well now but I’d like to see it with a few years of age. (90 points)

Wine Reviews: 2018 Rosés are Rolling In

It’s Spring here in the Northern Hemisphere, and the pink wines have started piling in. As such, this will be the one of several rosé reports this Spring/Summer, I’m sure. But this first batch has some real goodies.

I’m a big fan of Rioja producer C.V.N.E., and they make two different pinks that are seriously good for the money.

Most of the other rosés are from California, based on grapes like Pinot Noir, Grenache, Cabernet, Aglianico. Three non-saignée rosés from Sonoma’s Inman Family really wowed me. Inman started off the Endless Crush wines 15 years ago, making a single-vineyard wine from Olivet Grange Vineyard, but the winery has since expanded to include two other vineyard-designated pinks. They share bright, mineral-driven appeal and juicy fruit, but each has its own nuances and seasonings.

Lastly, there’s an exciting Pinot Noir rosé from Oregon producer Gran Moraine, whose wines have really impressed me over the years.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2018 C.V.N.E. Rioja Rosado Viña Real - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Bright pink color. Aromas of magnolia blossoms, juicy papaya, orange, watermelon, with some spicy, herbal undertones. Creamy texture kept fresh with bright acidity. Watermelon, white peach and strawberry fruit. It’s juicy and inviting with ripe fruit but there’s a crisp, floral, mineral, spicy undertone that is really attractive. Solid depth and value, but so easy to drink. Garnacha, Tempranillo and Viura. (88 points)

2018 C.V.N.E. Rioja Rosado Cune - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Juicy watermelon color, which follows onto the nose, with strawberries and crème, rose petals, white pepper and honeysuckle. Juicy and ripe on the palate with watermelon and strawberry fruit but there’s a brisk acidity and freshness to the wine. Notes of roses, white pepper and cinnamon add complexity. Bright, fresh, delish, so good for the price. 100% Tempranillo. (88 points)

2018 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Rosado - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Pale copper color. Bright aromas of white cherries, strawberries, watermelon rind, with wild herbs and wildflowers. Zippy yet creamy on the palate with fresh white cherries, strawberries, red apple peel. Spicy notes of baby’s breath, honeysuckle, white pepper, some herbal tea elements. This Rioja rose has a salad and tapas-friendly appeal, and a good value. 55% Garnacha, 45% Tempranillo. (87 points)

2018 Etude Pinot Noir Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $22
Bright pink color. Aromas of strawberries, red cherries, cinnamon candies, with lilies, honeysuckle. Juicy and ripe on the palate but it’s balanced by super refreshing acidity and a crisp, salty, nervy frame. Red apple, watermelon and cherry fruit mix nicely with sea salt, white and yellow flowers, white pepper, honeyed tea and an underlying mineral element. Vibrant and lively but quite complex and deep as well. (89 points)

2018 La Crema Pinot Noir Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $25
Light pink color. Aromas pop with nettle, sliced cucumber, white tea, honeysuckle, over top of watermelon and lemon. Juicy on the palate with a creamy texture and medium acidity. Watermelon and lemon and white peach mix with nettle and spicy oregano notes. Fun, fresh, spicy stuff. (86 points)

2018 LangeTwins Aglianico Rosé River Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $20
Light pink color. Spicy aromatic burst of green herbs, rose hips and lambic beer with raspberry, white cherries, red apples. On the palate, this shows plump texture on a rich mouthfeel with medium acidity, and while there’s a bold texture and plenty of juicy cherry and watermelon fruit, there’s also lot of complex, spicy, herbal tones (rose petals, white pepper, rhubarb, nettle). A delicious rose that could pair well with all sorts of richer dishes. (89 points)

2018 Copain Pinot Noir Tous Ensemble Rosé - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $25
Deep copper color. So many melons on the nose (watermelon and cantaloupe), white peach, it’s floral but not too perfumed; there’s a lovely blend of roses, wildflowers and hay, like a breezy open field. Plush texture yet vibrant acid on the palate, juicy, tangy fruit (red apple, watermelon, red cherry). I get complex notes of herbs, earth, dried flower petals, and there’s a mineral undertone that’s really attractive. Delicious yet subtle, this rose really stood out. Blended from five parcels in estate vineyards in Mendocino. (91 points)

2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $20
Light copper color. The nose boasts juicy cherries and raspberries, and I get a lot of pepper, sage, mint, verbena, on top of chalk dust and white tea. Medium-bodied, creamy, there’s a lot of textural depth yet the acidity is vibrant. Crunchy apples and cherries, the fruit mixes nicely with spiced tea, white pepper, mint, I get lots of floral depth and chalky notes. Bold yet spicy, complex yet bright. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. (89 points)

2018 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir Rosé Cresta d'Oro - USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley
SRP: $39
Very pale salmon color. So fresh on the nose with strawberries, white cherries, candied apple, along with wildflowers and dandelion. Fresh and zippy on the palate with a light, tangy appeal and flavors of white cherries, watermelon, red apple. A chalkier, airier wine with lovely balance and nuance. Salty, floral, herbal, mineral tones add complexity. Bright and vibrant, but a lot going on here. All Pinot Noir from the Cresta d’Oro Vineyard in the Green Valley. (90 points)

2018 Anaba Grenache Rosé Landa Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $28
Pale copper color. The nose shows bright raspberries, red apples, with spiced tea, nettle, baby’s breath. Crisp yet plump on the palate with juicy raspberries, strawberries, white cherries, on a frame of bright acidity. Crisp and salty, too, with floral and chalky notes. I lie the mix of fresh and spicy elements. This would be great with cured meats and olives. (88 points)

2018 Inman Family Pinot Noir Endless Crush Rosé Pratt Vine Hill - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $38
So fresh and inviting on the nose: red apples, white cherries, all sorts of fruit tree blossoms, along with sea salt and daisies. Zippy and vibrant on the palate, chalky and zesty on the palate but some nice depth and juicy fruit as well (strawberries, cherries, raspberries). Lots of floral tones in here (orange blossom, potpourri) with spiced tea elements and a chalky, mineral undertone. Impressive depth but so refreshing and easy to drink. (91 points)

2018 Inman Family Pinot Noir Endless Crush Rosé Pratt Sexton Road - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $38
The nose bursts with white cherries, strawberries, red apple, all sorts of fruit blossoms, dandelion, honeysuckle, breezy, salty air. Plush, luscious texture on the palate, but crisp, nervy acidity, with a vibrant, salty appeal. There’s a lot of floral and spicy complexity in here (honeysuckle, rose petals, white tea, ginger) and complex sea salt and mineral tones underneath. Lovely depth and richness here, with a finish like watermelon and mountain stream minerals. Beautiful Pinot Noir rosé. (92 points)

2018 Inman Family Pinot Noir Endless Crush Rosé OGV Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $38
So bright on the nose, with watermelon, lime, cherry, and plenty of chalk dust, sea spray, way too many floral notes to name. Zippy and crisp on the palate, bright but the depth is impressive. Juicy watermelon, guava and cherry fruit mixes well with saline, minerals, chalk, spiced tea, floral potpourri. Complex and deep yet zesty and clean, this is really delicious and lively stuff. (91 points)

2018 Smoking Loon Steelbird Rosé - USA, California
SRP: $8
Light watermelon color. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry leaf, red delicious apple, with nettle and dandelion notes. Crisp and tart and light on the palate with fresh cherry, red apple fruit, with notes of crushed sweet tarts, dandelion, white pepper and honeysuckle. Juicy, fun, fresh, and with a suggested price of under $10, this brings a whole lot to the table. Barbera with 27% Syrah and 13% Grenache. (85 points)

2018 Gran Moraine Rosé of Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $28
Very pale copper color. Bright, airy, elegant nose of white pepper, rose petals, chalk dust, with white cherries, wild raspberries, and strawberry bushes. On the palate this is crisp and vibrant but there’s a lot of textural depth. Vibrant strawberries, red cherries, raspberries, with complex notes of rose petals, sea salt, white pepper, chalk dust. Bright and elegant, this has a crunchy, floral yet juicy feel that is all wrapped up nicely. (90 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

High-Elevation Wines from Argentina & Chile

Bodega Colome's Altura Maxima Vineyard. Credit: Bodega Colome.

High-elevation vineyards fascinate me, and, as such, I’ve long been drawn to wines from Argentina. Especially in the Salta region, these vineyards are planted at dizzying heights.

In terms of highest elevation vineyards in the world, that title belongs to Bodega Colomé. The bodega sits at about 7,500 feet, but their highest vineyard (Altura Máxima) is located some 10,000 feet above sea level.

I recently tasted through some impressive wines from this producer, as well as fellow Salta winery Bodega Amalaya. This report also includes a wine from Domaine Bousquet and a serious value-driven Chilean red called Primus.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2018 Bodega Colomé Torrontés - Argentina, Salta

SRP: $15

Light yellow color. Aromas burst with lychee and white peach and pineapple, with tropical flowers, honey, very perfumed. Peachy keen on the palate with bright, sprightly acidity and a creaminess to the texture that adds depth. Lychee, pineapple and honeydew melon mix nicely with a floral perfume and honey combination, finishes with a hint of chalky minerals. I’m not a huge Torrontes fan, but this one is very pretty. (88 points)

2018 Bodega Amalaya Torrontes/Riesling - Argentina, Salta

SRP: $12

Light yellow color. So peachy on the nose with guava, lychee, limes, with yellow flowers and honey. Medium-bodied with racy acidity, a lively and tingling appeal. Peaches and crème mixed with lime, guava, lychee, along with notes of sea salt, chalk, lots of white and yellow flowers. Juicy, tropical, yet racy and vibrant. 85% Torrontes, 15% Riesling. (86 points)

2015 Domaine Bosquet Ameri - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $36
Bold purple color. Nose shows tart black cherries and saucy plums, wild blackberries, with cocoa, vanilla, cedar, earthy-charcoal notes. On the palate, this is full-bodied with tangy acidity, and the balance is really impressive. Tart black cherries and blueberries, tangy dark fruit, accented well with spicy herbs, cocoa, mint, spiced coffee, an earthy-mineral presence underneath. Ready to drink now, but this is structured to improve for at least a handful of years. 65% Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, from a single estate vineyard at 4,000 feet elevation. (90 points)

2017 Bodega Amalaya Malbec - Argentina, Salta

SRP: $16

Deep purple color. Aromas of tart but deep black currants and cherries, along with violets, graphite, earth, cocoa, black pepper, rocky earth. Full-bodied on the palate with velvety tannins and bright acidity, the balance is impressive. Tart black currants and blackberries, the fruit is accented with graphite, violets, earth, dusty cocoa. Deep, balanced, drinking so well right now but no rush. Really good value going on here. Includes 10% Tannat and 5% Petit Verdot. (89 points)

2016 Bodega Colomé Malbec Estate - Argentina, Salta, Calchaquies

SRP: $25

Deep purple color. Aromas are dark and tart with blackberry, blueberry, plum, with lots of loamy earth, cocoa, mint and graphite. Tangy acidity frames the wine nicely, balancing the moderate tannins, the balance is on point. Blackberry and tart blueberry, laced with mineral, graphite, earth. So pure and lively, this is showing very well now but I’d like to see it with a few years of age. (90 points)

2017 Bodega Colomé Malbec Auténtico - Argentina, Salta
SRP: $30

Bright purple color. Dark and juicy but tart with blackberries, cassis, deep notes of violets, potpourri, clove, coffee, loamy earth, charcoal, grilled herbs. On the palate, I love the combination of vibrant, crisp acidity with the waves of dark, velvety, tangy black fruit. Complex notes of minerals, graphite, forest floor, violets, anise, black tea. Rich fruit but it’s nuanced and complex, such a pretty expression of Malbec. Accessible now but I’d love to see it in a few years. All Malbec from 100-year-old vines, planted about 7,500 feet in elevation, aged in tanks, no oak. (91 points)

2015 Primus The Blend - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley

SRP: $19

Medium purple color. The nose shows loads of saucy black cherries, black cherries, along with a burst of black pepper, roasted red pepper, green olives, charcoal pit, along with coffee and vanilla notes. Medium/full-bodied with medium, velvety tannins, with moderating acidity, and everything is quite nicely balanced. Juicy yet tangy cassis and blackberry with a complex mix of anise, pepper, black olive, charcoal, and an underlying sense of rocky minerals. Accessible now but has the depth and concentration to improve for at least a few years. Surprisingly complex and balanced for the price. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenere, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week brings another roundup of wines from all over the world. Let’s dig in.

Included in this report are a pair of appassimento style wines from Pasqua, a producer from Italy’s Veneto region. For the price, they offer up a really cool springboard into this traditional style of wines.

While I love wines from the Italian region of Alto Adige, it’s not that often I taste a Pinot Grigio that stands up and slaps me in the face (in a good way). Peter Zemmer’s Riserva Giatl is a super complex and invigorating PG that deserves some attention.

Per usual, the Port producer Dow’s delivers, this time with two aged Tawny Ports (10- and 20-Year-Old), which reminded me again why I love aged Tawnies.

I also tasted four wines from the northern Spanish region of Navarra, which is home to many solid wines that sell here in the U.S. for very little money. There’s a rosé, a Chard, a Pinot and a Merlot blend, and they all punch well above their price point.

Lastly, I want to highlight two wines from Early Mountain, a Virginia producer who has been going from strength to strength lately. Their newly released Chardonnay and Shenandoah Valley Cabernet Franc show what this exciting winery has to offer.

2017 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Bianco - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Noses of peaches, lemons, green apples, along with sea salt, nettle and floral perfume. Medium-bodied, this is juicy and plump, fun wine with medium acidity and plenty of yellow and green apples, apricots. Notes of yellow and white flowers, white tea, candied ginger, this is a lot of fun for the price. 100% Garganega, which spends a bit of time drying (appassimento) before fermentation. (87 points)

2016 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Rosso - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Light purple. Nose of candied cherries, sweet raspberries, with chocolate, roses, cinnamon and vanilla. Light tannins, super fresh and tangy, but there’s some rich texture. Cherries, raspberries, sweet and juicy with notes of chocolate, black tea and sweet vanilla. Yummy, fun, goes down easily, a good introduction to the appassimento style. A blend of Merlot and Corvina (which was left to dry for a month) and Croatina. (88 points)

2014 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Aromas show a compote of plums, roasted figs, sweet plums, with anise, tobacco, dark chocolate and vanilla. Full-bodied and juicy with velvety tannins and tangy acidity. Roasted plums, figs, black cherries mix well with accents of black tea, coffee grounds, anise, dark chocolate. Corvina, Rondinella and Sangiovese, some of the grapes are left to dry until December before being vinified. This is a great intro to this style of wine and it always delivers for the price. (88 points)

2016 Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio Riserva Giatl - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol

SRP: $38
Rich yellow color. Gorgeous nose of peaches, limes, laced with floral perfume, fresh Spring breeze, wildflowers, cucumber and mint, with crushed rock notes. Plush on the texture with lovely depth on a full-bodied frame, but the acidity is nervy and fresh, pushing the wine forward. Yellow plums, peach nectar, lime, the fruit is laced with pretty, complex notes of saline, crushed chalk, floral perfume, mint, honey, Balanced, deep, complex, a Pinot Grigio to silence skeptics. Fermented in French oak, this wine is sourced from sandy, chalky soils in Giatl. A rare “Riserva” designation, this is some exceptional stuff. (92 points)

N.V. Dow Porto 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $37
Auburn color. The nose shows dates, figs, candied nuts, dried flowers and spiced tea. Full but fresh on the palate, a velvety, smooth, rich but lively feel. Dates, plum cake, candied pecans, and I get notes of cinnamon, graham cracker, spiced tea, dried flowers and clove. Rich yet vibrant, the sweetness is woven in really well and the wine comes across lively. This is a really solid Tawny for the price. (89 points)

N.V. Dow Porto 20 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $65
Deep auburn color. Nose shows deeper, more complex elements of digs, candied nuts, caramel, plum cake, I get some crème brulee and candied ginger. So smooth on the palate, full and sweet but really fresh and vibrant, too. The balance here is really lovely. Candied pecans, orange marmalade, almond cake, graham cracker, gingerbread – lots of deep flavor but it stays so vibrant. (91 points)

2018 Castillo de Monjardín Chardonnay El Cerezo Unoaked - Spain, NavarraSRP: $12
Medium yellow color. Aromas of yellow apples, glazed pears, salted peanuts, hay and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity, this rides a nice line between styles of Chardonnay, with juicy, ripe elements, but it’s not too plump or over-oaked (all stainless steel). Tropical mix of pineapple and lime blends with minerals, chalk, salted almond, cream and ginger. Nicely balanced, and offers deliciousness but enough to keep me thinking, too. Really good value. (88 points)

2018 Bodegas Ochoa Garnacha Rosado Calendas - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $12

Juicy watermelon colored. Nose boasts raspberries, white peaches, candied apple, topped in spiced herbal and nettle tea, cinnamon candies. Plush and juicy on the palate with a medium+ body and moderate acidity. Red fruit-forward in style with plump cherries, raspberry jam and watermelon. Nots of nettle, verbena, spiced tea add some complexity. This is juicy, forward rose that could stand up to meats and grilled veg with ease. Lots of fun for the price. (87 points)

2016 Castillo de Monjardín Pinot Noir Navarra El Cerezo - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $12
Deep ruby color. Nose of jammy cherries and strawberries, with a good amount of black pepper, sage, roasted earth, rose petals. Fresh on the palate with light tannins and bright acidity. Cherries, raspberry jam and red plums, juicy but not too sweet on the fruit. The elements of spiced tea, pepper and bay leaf add a nice spicy kick, with notes of rose petals and cola. Surprising amount of personality for a $12 Spanish Pinot Noir, which is not a statement I’ve made before. Stainless steel fermented and aged nine months in old oak. (86 points)

2015 Bodega Inurrieta Norte - Spain, Navarra
SRP: $14
Light purple color. The nose shows lots of spiced coffee, black pepper, clove, on top of juicy raspberry, black cherries and plum sauce. Full-bodied, velvety, accessible feel on the palate with medium acidity. Tangy black currants and sweet black cherries, the fruit is laced with lots of spicy black pepper, clove, leather. I like the savory kick here. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, this is a tasty, crowd-pleasing, barbecue-friendly red blend from Navarra for a solid price. (87 points)

2017 Early Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc – USA, Virginia, Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $30

Light purple color. On the nose, I get black cherries, juicy plums, cassis, along with a complex mix of anise, licorice, menthol and charcoal. Plush on the palate yet structured well with medium tannins and vibrant, crisp acidity, and the texture and balance are on point. Black cherries, cassis, laced with violets, spicy pepper, cocoa, earth, mint, coffee. With air, this opens up nicely and shows more spicy, floral tones. This is a really exciting Virginia Cabernet Franc. All Cabernet Franc sourced from Baer Ridge and Shenandoah Springs vineyards. (90 points)

2017 Early Mountain Chardonnay - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Such a burst of freshness on the nose, with lime, lemon, chalk dust, sea salt, white flowers and orange blossom. Plump and generous on the palate yet there’s a nervy, salty, chalk-infused vibrancy to this wine that doesn’t quit. Peaches and lemon curd mix nicely with complex elements of chalk dust, honeysuckle, floral perfume, lemon pith and a hint of green herbs. Deep yet bright, this is a stunner of a Virginia Chardonnay, sourced from Early Mountain and Quaker Run vineyards. Fermented in French oak, less than 20% was new. I’d love to see how this ages. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Much to Discover in the High Desert Wines of Southern Arizona

Surreal scenery outside Sonoita, Arizona.

As an East Coaster, I didn’t see a proper American desert until I first traveled to Arizona in 2010. Immediately, I became obsessed with this state and all its extreme natural beauty. With few expectations, I also dove deep into the wine scene, and found some dynamic producers making delicious wines.

Many of the wines I enjoyed most hailed from the Southeast of Arizona, the Cochise County area, which abuts Mexico and New Mexico. The state’s only American Viticultural Areas are located here, Sonoita and Willcox. This is also where the modern Arizona wine industry began, when soil scientist Dr. Gordon Dutt founded Sonoita Vineyards in 1983 after an experimental vineyard showed promise. I recently visited the region for the first time and encountered a beautiful land of high desert plains, rugged mountains, wide open space, and exciting wines.

Yes, Arizona is hot and dry. But the diversity in microclimates, soil types, winegrapes, and winemakers tells a much more complex story. Geologic maps of Arizona are dizzying, and the area has an abundance of rocky, sandy soils, limestone, clay, giving winegrowers many great options to work with.

The Pronghorn Vineyard. Credit: Dos Cabezas

Most of the vineyards in Southeast Arizona are planted around 4,300-5,000 feet in elevation. This leads to serious temperature swings, allowing grapes to ripen in the sun and heat, and maintain acidity as the nighttime temperatures drop. During my visit to Sonoita in February, I woke up to 18 degrees Fahrenheit after driving through snow-covered mountains, their peaks sometimes hidden above the clouds. The day after I left, six inches of snow fell, which goes to show how variable and extreme conditions can be.

To start off my visit, I met Todd Bostock, winemaker at Dos Cabezas, a producer I’ve grown to respect. We met on a cold, sunny day in Sonoita, and I tasted through his wines and chatted about what he’s up to these days at his winery. And he’s up to a lot of awesome stuff.

The late Arizona winegrower Al Buhl started Dos Cabezas in 1995. Todd, who started home winemaking early before studying with UC Davis’ extension program, took a winemaking job at Dos Cabezas in 2002. The Bostock family took control over the project in 2006. 

Todd Bostock in the Dos Cabezas barrel room.

Todd farms 37 acres in Willcox’s Cimarron Vineyard, which sit at 4,300 feet. This fascinating vineyard is home to seven white grape varieties (from Albarino to Viognier) and 17 red grapes (from Aglianico to Vranec). The 15-acre Pronghorn vineyard, in Sonoita, sits at 4,800 feet and is home to ten different grape varieties.

As such, Dos Cabezas is all about the blends. There’s a lot of vintage variation in this part of the country, and lots of weather difficulties, including early and late frosts, hail, so having access to a wide array of grapes gives Todd freedom to tweak the makeup of his wines each vintage. 

You can tell a lot about a wine nerd by what empty bottles they keep around on shelves or cabinets. In Todd’s barrel room, I saw a diverse selection and epic bottles, but it was the Chateauneuf wines (from several of my favorite producers) that stood out. And that Chateauneuf ethos of blending all sorts of different grapes comes through in Todd’s wines. 

Like many winemakers I’ve met over the years, Todd seems driven to experiment. For example, he makes a Ramato-style, skin-fermented Pinot Grigio. I tasted a Madeira-style fortified desert wine, which gets the whole treatment of oxygen and blistering Arizona summer heat. 

Todd is also working on a solera-style sparkling wine, which so far includes wine from three vintages. It’s a quirky blend of Tempranillo, Grenache and Riesling, and the barrel sample he poured me was delightfully bright, zesty, floral, with sea salt and chalky notes. The finished wine should be something special.

To get a handle on the heights that varietal wines can achieve in Southeast Arizona, look no further than Rune wines. Rune founder James Callahan embodies the DIY spirit that attracted me to Arizona and its wines. With the goal of making due with what he had, James built his Sonoita winery and tasting room by hand, laying the concrete himself. He stores his wines in temperature-controlled trucking containers, which he ordered off Craig’s List. His winery is off the grid, fully solar-powered, and rustic, but it is home to some pristine and beautiful wines.

James worked harvests in Walla Walla, Washington and Wairarapa, New Zealand, before landing a job at the Sonoma Pinot powerhouse Kosta-Browne. A native of Arizona, he was excited to come home for a winemaking job with Willcox-based Aridus. He then struck off on his own with Rune in 2013, and he works as a consulting winemaker for other producers as well.

James sources his a lot of his fruit from Pillsbury Vineyard in the Willcox region, which he calls, “truly a petri dish of wine industry growth.” He also recently planted a vineyard near his winery in Sonoita. In the winery, James uses native yeasts to craft small lot varietal wines from Rhone grapes. 

The entrance to Rune wines in Sonoita, AZ.

I hadn’t tasted a single Rune wine before my trip, but I was blown away by the quality of these wines. If you’re skeptical that Roussanne and Viognier wines from Arizona can be fresh, bright and balanced — I was — may I present these wines.

Unfortunately, I was unable to meet up with well-known Arizona vintner Kent Callaghan of Elgin-based Callaghan Vineyards during my trip, whose wines I’ve tasted and enjoyed in the past. This producer dates back to 1990, during what must’ve been a really gutsy time to plant a vineyard in Southeast Arizona. Right after planting his Buena Vista Vineyard in 1990, Arizona experienced a tremendous heatwave that led to the closure of the Phoenix airport for a few days, and the death of many a young vine. But, since then, Callaghan has been producing some lovely wines based on classic Mediterranean grapes from France and Spain. I would be remiss to leave these wines out of this report, so Kent sent me a case to taste, including some library vintages.

Lastly, I’ve included some wines from Aridus in this report as well. Located in Willcox, this producer has been getting some attention lately, and they’ve even opened a tasting room in bustling Old Tow Scottsdale. It’s worth a visit if you’re in that area for a while.

I’ve included a lengthy list of tasting notes from my trip below. The Dos Cabezas and Rune wines were tasted with the winemakers, while I tasted the Callaghan and Aridus wines sighted, at home. Most of the wines are available directly from the producers, or a handful of select wine shops in Arizona. Since these wines are made in small amounts, finding them outside of the state can be difficult. Another reason why a trip is a good idea.

Dos Cabezas

2018 Dos Cabezas Wine Works White Cimarron Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County
$19
This Cimarron vineyard has a kitchen sink of white varieties planted, and this wine captures a lot of them: 38% Picpoul Blanc, 22% Viognier, 16% Roussanne, 10% Malvasia, 7% Albariño, 7% Grenache Blanc. It’s a fascinating and expressive wine that offers a panoramic picture of the vineyard through all these grapes. I get aromas of peaches, limes, lemon peel, green melon, all sorts of flowers. The palate is pure and vibrant with a waxy texture but bright acidity. Peaches, lemon curd, papaya — tropical meets citrus in just the right amounts, with notes of sea salt, almond, complex floral notes. Balanced, complex, vibrant. (90 points)

2017 Dos Cabezas Wine Works El Campo Blanco Pronghorn Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County
$30
This is a fascinating blend of Roussanne, Viognier, Picpoul, whole-cluster pressed, 12 months in Austrian oak. These grapes are harvested in two stages, an early harvest and a second one weeks later. The aromas pop with peaches, apples, pineapple, white tea. Plump texture, yet (again with these wines) that crisp acidity keeps it lively. Apples, peaches, lemon, mixed with sea salt, almond, some herbal and chalky elements. Really impressive stuff. (91 points)

2018 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Pink - Arizona, Cochise County
$19
Another interesting blend, this one has 50% Garnacha, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 10% Graciano, and 5% Piquepoul Blanc. Fermented in tank, old 500 liter barrels, and a new 1,500 liter Austrian foudre. Smells of all sorts of wildflowers, verbena, wild cherries and strawberries. Crisp acidity frames the wine, it’s bright but shows nice depth of texture. Strawberries, wild cherries, red apple peel, along with spicy herbs, rose petals, verbena and tobacco elements. A seriously good rosé. They also release a carbonated, canned version that is a ton of fun. (89 points)

2014 Dos Cabezas Wine Works El Norte Cimarron Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County
$30
A blend of Mourvèdre and Grenache that spends 24 months in large oak barrels. Age has done this well, and more time will continue that trend. The aromas boast warm spices (clove, pepper, bay leaf and creosote) with red cherries, raspberries and red apple. The palate is warm and inviting yet vibrant with light/medium tannins and moderate acidity. Juicy, tangy red plums and cherries, with a complex, well-integrated blend of spicy pepper, clove, bay leaf, warm clay. Vibrant yet deep, this could age for a while. (90 points)

2015 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Toscano - Arizona, Cochise County
$30

A blend of 55% Sangiovese, 21% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Aglianico, 7% Petit Verdot, aged two years in oak barrels. Lovely aromas of berry compote, spiced black tea, pepper, cedar, chewing tobacco and mint. The palate is full and velvety with medium acidity and lots of plums and cherry fruit. Rich yet bright, juicy but complex, with lots of leathery, peppery, herbal tones. I’d love to see what this does in the next three or four years. (90 points)

2012 Dos Cabezas Wine Works El Campo Pronghorn Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County
$50
Tempranillo and Mourvedre with Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah and Graciano, aged two years in new French oak. Lots of spicy aromas of bay leaf, pepper, creosote, leather, which play well with the juicy, bright red fruits. On the palate, this is vibrant and spicy with integrated tannins and fresh acidity. Red cherries and plums play well with cocoa, earth, leather, warm clay, creosote, cedar. Complex and delicious with lots of time ahead. This is a beautiful blended expression of Pronghorn goodness. (92 points)

2014 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Aguileon - Arizona, Cochise County
$30
49% Tempranillo, 30% Graciano, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah. Smells like warm cherries and plums, tobacco, clove, coffee, clay and earthy notes. On the palate, it’s full and rich, with some grippy structure, but the acidity moderates nicely. Plums, black cherries, the fruit is full but tangy, laced with earthy/spiccoffee, cedar, pepper and olive notes – the complexity is nuts. This could use at least a few years in the cellar, but it’s still highly delicious right now. (91 points)

2015 Dos Cabezas Wine Works La Montaña - Arizona, Cochise County
$50
Petite Sirah, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine has a dark core of aromas (blackberry and back cherry compote) with clove, coffee, anise, pepper and creosote notes. Full and saucy on the palate with nice grip and medium/low acidity. Plum cake and blackberry compote mix nicely with anise, clove, dark chocolate, espresso, cedar. This is rich and deep but also earthy and spicy. I’d like to see what this does in three or four years. (91 points)

Rune

James Callahan (background) and I tasting his exceptional Rune wines.

2017 Rune Wines Rosé - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$20
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, and Graciano. Saigneé method, fermented in stainless steel and a French oak puncheon. Pretty pink color. Aromas show spicy pepper and wildflowers on top of cherries and strawberries. This is fresh and zippy on the palate with a lovely, deep texture and mouthfeel. Strawberries, white cherries, topped in white pepper with some chalky, crusty, mineral notes. This is a serious pink. (90 points)

2017 Rune Wines Viognier Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$28
Lovely aromas of peaches, green melon, guava, lemon, lots of flowers, too. The palate is plump and lees-stirr-y and round yet super crisp, and there's a lively mineral streak throughout that I really like. Pure and vibrant, which is not something I say often about a Viognier, but I love these honey, floral complexities, the vibrant and deep fruit. I'd like to see how this ages over the next five years. One of the best Viogniers I've had from anywhere in a long time. Fermented in stainless steel and old French oak. (92 points)

2016 Rune Wines Mourvedre Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox,
$32
This is a really cool wine that is co-fermented with 3% Symphony, aged 20 months in neutral French oak. The nose is juicy with cherries and red plums, along with pepper, leather, paprika and other cool stuff going on. Juicy and cherry-driven on the palate with plums and raspberries, lots of spiced tea, herbs, pepper. There’s a mineral depth here as well that makes this wine pop. (92 points)

2016 Rune Wines Wild Syrah Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$45
This Cote-Rotie-style Syrah is co-fermented with Viognier and some Malvasia. It’s saucy and dark on the nose, black cherries and plums, laced with pepper, herbs, cocoa, violets and earth. Full and grippy on the palate but vibrant acidity, and the balance is superb. Juicy, full with black cherries and dark plums but the fruit has a tangy edge. Complex notes of spicy herbs, pepper, leather, cocoa and coffee. Lots going on here. I bought a few bottles to bury for a few years, because this will do more in the cellar. (92 points)

2016 Rune Wines Petite Sirah Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
Nose shows surprising red fruits for a Petite Sirah – yeah there’s blackberry jam and such but also some juicy red plums and raspberries, with roses, violets, coffee. Serious grip on the tannins, this is a young wine, with medium acidity which helps keep the tannins in check. Plum cake, blackberry and raspberry am, along with smoky herbs, pepper, spiced tea, black olives. For a PS, this is almost “elegant” in a way, yet still seriously grippy. Really curious what this does with four or five years. (90 points)

2016 Rune Wines Grenache Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$28
This wine totally blew me away – the eye-opening wine of the trip. Nose shows bright and juicy cherries, strawberries, all sorts of airy, floral notes, herbs, lavender, pepper. On the palate this is juicy but smooth, delicious but really fresh, and the acidity is impressive. Bright cherry fruit topped in dusty, earthy, pepper, sage, all sorts of complexities. This is such a pretty Grenache that will age well, and I think it’d be a great ringer in a Chateauneuf tasting. Just wow. (93 points)

2014 Rune Wines Wild Syrah Pillsbury Vineyard - Arizona, Cochise County, Willcox
$45
Aromas of dark and juicy plums with earthy, peppery notes, iron and herbs. Still tannic and strong but it has some velvety feel to it, and bright acidity. Plums and dark cherries mix well with smoky herbs, coffee, leather, sage, warm clay, and some flower pot and violet petal notes. Wow, this has a lot of cellar time ahead, too. Beautiful stuff. Co-fermented with 3% Viognier. (93 points)

Callaghan

2017 Callaghan Dry Grenache Rosé - Arizona, Sonoita
$25
Bright pink color. Super floral on the nose with lots of spicy, herbal, rhubarb notes, along with white cherries and wild strawberries. Plump texture on the palate, mild acidity, this is fruity and fun with white cherries, strawberries, raspberries, red apple peel. Notes of white pepper, roses, spiced white tea. This is fun, fan-friendly stuff. (86 points)

2017 Callaghan Love Muffin - Arizona
$28
Deep yellow color. Nose pops with lychee, pineapple, melon, along with lots of orange blossom, honeysuckle and sweet perfume. Plump and waxy texture on the palate, medium/low acidity offers a bit of freshness. Pineapple, lychee, so tropical, with lots of orange blossom, honeysuckle, nettle, white tea and nougat. Fun, forward, rich white blend. (86 points)

2017 Callaghan Grenache Rhumb Line - Arizona, Cochise County
Medium ruby color. Aromas of red apples, raspberry and strawberry jam, along with rhubarb, cinnamon sticks and rose hips. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, medium acidity, packed with tart but jammy notes of strawberries, raspberries and candied red apple. Complex notes of sage, white pepper, sweet cola, rhubarb, with some cedar and espresso. Fun and forward but also lively and complex. Impressive stuff. (90 points)

2013 Callaghan Padres - Arizona, Sonoita
Deep ruby/light purple color. Rich aromas of plums, a compote of raspberries, cranberries and red currants, topped in cinnamon, herbal tea and cocoa. Full-bodied with a velvety feel to the tannins, a big bold red but medium acidity helps. Saucy cranberries, currants, figs and raspberry jam, along with sweet herbs, cocoa, cinnamon, roasted chestnut. Bold and chewy but well-done, a log of depth and complexity here. 62% Graciano, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Tannat. (89 points)

2016 Callaghan Padres - Arizona, Sonoita
Deep ruby/light purple color. Bold aromatics of sweet plums, raspberry jam, cherry pie, with cocoa, cola and spiced tea. Full-bodied with a plump and chewy feel medium tannins, medium acidity, the balance is quite nice. Sweet plums, raspberries and fig paste topped in roasted cocoa, sweet herbs, some nice earthy notes. A red for rich foods and a snowstorm! 65% Graciano, 17% Petite Verdot, 9% Tempranillo, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. (88 points)

2013 Callaghan Caitlin's - Arizona, Sonoita
Light purple color. Nose boasts rich plums, currants, fig paste, with violets, sage, menthol and earth. Full-bodied (15.3%) with velvety tannins and surprising acidity. Juicy and generous with its dark currant and black cherry fruit mixed with savory tones, grilled herbs, cracker pepper, menthol and vanilla. Fuller than the 2016 but it’s also settled down nicely and the balance is impressive. 64% Petite Verdot, 25% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc. (89 points)

2016 Callaghan Caitlin's - Arizona, Sonoita
$45
Light purple color. Nose shows currants, black cherries, fig paste, along with eucalyptus, sweet coffee, anise, cedar. Plush texture on the palate but some significant grip to the tannins, while surprising acidity keeps it lively. Tart currants laced with smoky herbs, menthol, black pepper and cocoa. Rich and saucy yet it maintains brightness. 67% Petite Verdot, 33% Cabernet Franc. (88 points)

2015 Callaghan Aglianico Cimarron - Arizona, Cochise County
Deep purple color. Nose shows rich plums, blueberries, blackberries, this is dark and deep with milk chocolate, roasted chestnut. Full (15.3%) and plush with a velvety feel, although the tannins provide structure. Packed with hedonistic black fruit, and lots of it, but it’s also nicely mixed with coffee, cocoa, charcoal and mint. Bigger, more intense than the 2016, but really good. I’d like to see this in a few years. (88 points)

2016 Callaghan Aglianico Cimarron - Arizona, Cochise County
Bright purple color. Whoa, the nose is packed with fruit (jammy blueberries and blackberries, roasted fig) with some cocoa and sweet vanilla. Full-bodied (14.7%) with chewy tannins and medium-low acidity. Cherries, fig cookies and blackberries, tons of fruit but it’s complemented by earth, clove, charred herbs, creosote and warm clay notes. Complex, unique, this should age nicely. (89 points)

2013 Callaghan Tannat - Arizona, Sonoita
Rich purple color. Smoky nose of roasted figs, black currants and black cherry compote, along with anise and charcoal. Full-bodied on the palate with a velvety feel, medium acidity. Tart plums and plump black cherries, smooth and dark fruit, laced with anise, cocoa, sage, herbal tea. Really smoky and roasted, but fun stuff. (87 points)

2016 Callaghan Tannat - Arizona, Sonoita
$35
Deep purple color. Dark and inky on the nose (blackberries, currant paste, plum compote) with smoky menthol, anise and charcoal elements. Full-bodied, grippy tannins, the acidity here is surprisingly tangy and really balances things out nicely. Black currants and dark plums, tangy, dark and suave, along with coffee, charcoal, anise, with black pepper, tar, vanilla and magic marker. Deep but tangy and complex, I’d love to see this in four or five years. (89 points)

2017 Callaghan Tannat Rhumb Line - Arizona, Cochise County
Dark purple color. Nose boasts black cherries, roasted figs, blackberries, laced with smoke, charcoal, magic marker, sweet coffee and vanilla bean. Strong tannic backbone but a chewy feel, too, with moderating acidity. Saucy and rich with dark, deep black fruit (loads of it), backed up with charcoal, espresso, mint, earthy-mineral tones. Lots going on here, but this could use some time in the cellar. (88 points)

Aridus

2017 Aridus White Field Blend - Arizona, Willco
SRP: $28

Light yellow color. Aromas pop with pineapple, guava and lemon, topped in bright floral tones and some dusty, chalky notes. Light-bodied but nice depth on the palate, juicy yet light and brisk, this goes down so easily. Lemons, pineapple, green apples, topped in floral tones, crushed sweet tart candies, chalk, white pepper. Surprisingly brisk for a Viognier-based blend from Arizona – this is a serious patio pounder kind of wine. A low 11.0% alcohol, this is the first harvest from a new estate vineyard, and this wine is a field blend of Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Malvasia Bianca. (87 points)

2016 Aridus Syrah - Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $37
Bold purple color. Aromas of smoky earth, violets, pepper, black tea, with plum cake and roasted fig. Burly on the palate yet velvety with medium/low acidity, enough to balance it out. Dark and saucy with black cherries, dark currants, roasted fig, mixed with clove, pepper, sage. Big, saucy, barbecue-friendly stuff. Co-fermented with 17% Viognier, aged 19 months in oak. (87 points)

2016 Aridus Graciano - Arizona, Willcox
SRP: $37
Light ruby color. Smells of raspberries, strawberries, spicy rhubarb, white pepper, sage, clay, earth. Medium-tannins on the palate with bright acidity and tangy raspberries and cherries. Balanced and vibrant, structured but accessible and fresh. Complex notes of spicy herbs, dried rose petals, pepper and clove. Apparently, Graciano does well here, because they nailed this. Aged 18 months in a mix of French and American oak. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.