Happy belated new year. I’m back this week with a round-up of new releases from California and Oregon for my first reviews of 2021. And I’m starting off with some good stuff.
Merry Edwards, whose wines I fell in love with on one of my first California wine trips, comes out swinging with four rocking single-vineyard Pinots from the 2018 vintage.
Paso Robles’ Rabble Wine Company puts out several brands. Aesthetic and marketing matters, and they seem to do a great job of it, while maintaining quality in the bottle that could make you a return customer.
Long-time readers will have seen Troon’s wines on here before, and I have a lot of respect for this producer and their wines. Always experimenting with different styles, grapes, this biodynamic winery puts out nerdy but pristine and highly delicious wines in so many styles it seems there’s something for everyone in their portfolio.
Some other new releases round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
White wines
2018 Talbott Chardonnay Block 50 South Sleepy Hollow Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $60
Rich yellow color. The aromas are deep and suave, with bruised pears, yellow apples, with complex floral tones, cinnamon crumb cake, honeycomb. Plump texture on the palate but moderate acidity keeps it vibrant throughout. Juicy flavors of yellow pears and apples, with apricot jam, mix with complex floral tones (honeysuckle, orange blossom). Notes of honey, graham cracker and brown sugar contrast against a chalky element. Rich but vibrant and fresh, too, this should age nicely. (90 points)
2018 Rabble Wine Company “Stasis” Grüner Veltliner - USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $41
Medium yellow color. Inviting aromas of yellow apples, limes, along with this pretty combination of floral and spicy elements (honeysuckle fresh ramps) with honey and chalky elements as well. Precise acidity frames the wine nicely on a zesty, focused frame with delicious yellow apple, kiwi and lemon fruit. A crunchy, salty, floral appeal, with honeysuckle, ginger, cucumber slices and celery seed tones. A lot going on, bright and complex, but it’s also so fun and crushable, too. (90 points)
2018 Grieve Family Winery Double Eagle White Wine - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $48
Medium yellow color. Rich aromas of honeydew, pineapple and yellow apple with honeyed, floral tones but also these vibrant tones of hay, chalk and mint. Plush texture on the palate, vibrant acid, with flavors of white peach, pineapple and lemon tart fruit. Notes of chalk, minerals, tomato leaf and sea salt add complexity. Nuanced, plump but fresh, this Sauvignon Blanc has lovely clarity and focus to it. (90 points)
2019 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Aromas of lemon, orange, yellow plum, a rushing display with notes of sea salt, white tea, honey, all sorts of flowers. A juicy, creamy mouthfeel but, considering the blend, the acidity is really surprising, offer pleasant moderation for the yellow plum, orange marmalade fruit, lime notes, too. Honey, marzipan and floral tones add complexity. Lovely stuff to serve with savory dishes on a cold night. Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne fermented with native yeasts in Old French oak. (91 points)
2019 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
An orange, light gold color. The nose is bright, with orange peel, lemon, has a natural but focused appeal with wildflowers, crushed sweet tarts, quinine and talc. On the palate, this shows chunks of pineapple, orange peel and preserved lemon, plump but shows some medium-low acidity as well. Complex notes of crushed shells, floral perfume and subtle notes of mint, tobacco and earth. Really enjoyable and unique. Fermented in amphorae, two with whole grapes, one with whole cluster. (90 points)
Red wines
2017 Rabble Wine Company Tooth & Nail Wines “The Stand” - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Deep, roasted figs, blackberries and black currant compote, with cedar, coffee, tar and sweet cocoa. Juicy and full on the palate with velvety tannins, surprisingly fresh acidity. Jammy blackberries, blueberries, roasted figs, laced with cocoa, coffee, graphite, scorched earth, pepper and tar, yet this forward, winter-hearty wine shows vibrancy throughout. 85% Petite Sirah, 14% Syrah, 1% Viognier, aged 15 months in 34% new French oak. (89 points)
2018 Rabble Wine Company Rabble Red - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $13
Medium purple color. Jammy aromas of cherries and plums, smoky figs, with vanilla and chocolate covered raisins. Ripe and juicy on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of blackberry and smoky figs mix with vanilla, chocolate and coffee tones. Chewy and forward but shows some vibrancy, and has a fan-friendly, disappear at a party vibe to it. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Petite Sirah. (86 points)
2016 Rabble Wine Company “Amor Fati” Syrah Murmur Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Ooh! The nose oozes olives (green, black, some pimentos and garlic cloves thrown in, and I love it) backed up by these tones of beef jerk over top of tangy, juicy cherries and red plums. Full-bodied but fresh with this zippy acidity and some solid but slightly dusty tannins. Vibrant but chewy fruit, cherries and blackberries, along with lots of tobacco, black pepper, leather, lots green olives. Undertones of rocky earth and mineral round out this lovely, complex Syrah that will reward age. Spends 18 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)
2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $16
Medium ruby color. Aromas of raspberries, juicy cherries, with roses, cola, suave but shows some spicy, herbal tones as well. Juicy, smooth but fresh on the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Raspberry and cherry fruit mix with light roast coffee, nice tones of rose petals and save, nuanced toffee and cola. Fun, fresh, style, ripe but shows a lot of nuance and balance for the price. (87 points)
2016 Grieve Family Vineyard Double Eagle - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $88
Deep purple color. Aromas of juicy blackberries, blueberries, with tar, anise, roasted coffee and cedar, classic, deep, inviting Napa goodness. Full and suave on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity, finely balanced. Ripe blackberry and smoky blueberry with plummy, sauce tones, backed up by complex graphite, mineral, charcoal and tobacco. Boastful but nuanced and fresh, too. Delicious, exciting stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Petit Verdot. (92 points)
2017 Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $40
Light purple color. Aromas of smoky earth and mint chocolate chip over top spicy black currants, sweet plums, with pepper and black tea. Full-bodied on the palate with smooth tannins, medium acidity. Juicy and ripe with plush black cherry and plum fruit. Notes of cocoa, toasted coconut and coffee grounds are woven in well. A forward, yummy style, but it has some solid complexity and depth as well. (89 points)
2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas pop with raspberry and blueberry jams with spicy mint, menthol and clove, backed up by milk chocolate and rhubarb. Full but fresh with a slightly chewy texture and waves of plums, raspberry and blueberry fruit. Cola, rose petals, nuanced notes of toffee and roasted chestnut, complex floral and earth tones as well. Bold but beautiful, smooth and vibrant, and should be stellar in three to six years. (92 points)
2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Warrens' Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
SRP: $66
Cherries galore on the nose, vibrant and floral as well, with roses, violets, tobacco and sarsaparilla. Full-bodied, lively acidity, full of juicy cherries and red plums on a frame of dusty tannins. Complex notes of oregano, roses, coffee, clay and earth, with herbal and minty tones. Vibrant finish, harmonious and complex, the freshest, spiciest iteration in this mix, and it’s lovely. (93 points)
2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas of juicy cherries and plums meet notes of violets, cola and sweet oregano. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, a chewy texture with a concentrated feel, but stays vibrant with acidity as well. Deep cherry and roasted figs, wild blueberries, suave fruit mixes well with cola, sage and tobacco. Pretty underlying mineral and earth tones This could use some time, but it’s vibrant and exciting. (92 points)
2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Meredith Estate Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $72
The nose boasts sweet plums and deep black cherries, with rich tones of cola, cocoa and coffee. Full and chewy with moderate acidity and a deep core of black cherry and tart plum fruit. Saucy with notes of coffee, toffee, sarsaparilla, roasted chestnut and potting soil. Needs air and time to coax out the nuances, but it’s lovely and good for fans of the deeper style. (91 points)
2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Medium purple color. Aromas of suave black cherries, blackberries, with pepper, cocoa, mesquite, graphite and tilled soil. Full and fresh, nice tannic structure but velvety feel and vibrant acidity. Black cherries and blueberry compote mixes with all sorts of spicy tones (olives, pickling spices, mesquite, charcoal) with violet and cocoa tones. Integrated, lively, spicy, serious stuff for the price. (91 points)
2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah Whole Cluster Fermented - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Medium purple color. So enticing on the nose, deep but vibrant with red and black cherries and currants, figs, and notes of pine, pepper, menthol and charcoal grill. Full-bodied and suave on the palate with bright acidity and a grippy but gorgeous, deep texture. Pretty blueberries and blackberry fruit mix well with complex notes of bacon fat, beef jerky, black olive, scorched earth. A silky, mineral-laden finish. This should age wonderfully over the next decade. (92 points)
It’s been a long year, and this is a very different holiday season. But I hope you and yours are safe, healthy, and have an enjoyable holiday season, whatever you are celebrating.
In the spirit of the holidays, I’ve gathered up a collection of wines from all over the world that could add some cheer in the coming winter.
From one of the brightest, most complex Soaves I’ve tried in a long time, to Quilceda Creek’s second wine and the new vintage of Napa’s Cardinale, I’ve found some beauties. Merry Edwards’ first vintage of a Sauvignon Blanc dessert wine is absolutely delicious, and worth checking out, especially if you (like me) are a fan of their classic Sauv Blanc.
There’s some Champagne and other bubbles, of course. And if you’re not up for opening a full bottle, this report also includes several 375ml examples that are widely available in the U.S.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
White wines
2018 Pieropan Soave Classico Calvarino - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Plush but inviting nose of peach, guava, lime, topped in hay, white flowers, mint and chalk dust. Creamy texture on the palate is beautiful, while crisp acidity keeps it focused and bright, backed up with these plump peach and yellow apple fruit, drizzled with lie. The complexity here is great, with mineral, chalk, sandstone, hay and lemon verbena. Zest, focused, complex, stony, with a long, harmonious finish. This is killer single-vineyard Soave. (91 points)
2019 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $13/375ml
Light yellow color. Lively aromas of lemon, guava and ruby red grapefruit, with subtle herbal, peppery tones, white flowers in the mix as well. Ripe and plush on the palate with flavors of grapefruit, white peach and guava, accented with daisies and honeysuckle. A ripe and spicy feel but balanced and nuanced as well. (88 points)
2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $13/375ml
Rich yellow color. Aromas of honeyed pears and apples, cinnamon crumb cake, but also some lively lemon and chalky tones. Creamy, juicy texture on the palate, moderating acidity, with flavors of yellow apples and lemon curd. Notes of honey, cinnamon and almond are woven in well, and notes of yellow flowers and chalk add vibrancy. Forward but harmonious, and a solid value Napa Chardonnay. (89 points)
2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Blanc - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Nose of white peaches and yellow plums, along with spicy oregano and mint, honey and clover. Juicy, peachy and tropical on the palate, but fresh and crisp throughout. Yellow apples, white peaches, lemon and papaya, this is a juicy but zippy wine tossed with cucumber slices, floral perfume and honeysuckle. There’s a lot going on here for the price. (88 points)
Sparkling, rosé & dessert wines
N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Extra-Brut Rosé Première Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Light salmon color. So bright and brisk with the nosewith wild raspberry and strawberry, along with watermelon rind, topped in crushed shells, chalk dust, hints of white pepper and tomato leaf. Precise and focused on the palate with racy acidity and bright appeal, along with solid textural depth. Grapefruit, strawberry, raspberry and red apple peel fruit mix well with chalk, talc and crushed shell tones. Notes of white pepper and ginger add complexity to this brisk, delightful rosé. Mostly Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Bouzy, Mailly or Les Riceys, along with Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, with a 6 g/l dosage. (91 points)
2019 Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu'ile de Saint-Tropez Côtes de Provence Fleur de Mer Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $13/375ml
Deep copper color. Bright and chalky on the nose with sea salt and dandelion over top strawberry, watermelon and white cherry fruit. Fresh and plump texture on the palate, but bright acidity, with flavors of white peach and guava. Notes of yellow flowers, green tea and honey mix in well. Fruity but vibrant, a fun, versatile rosé. (87 points)
N.V. La Marca Prosecco - Italy, Veneto / Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $11/375ml
Light yellow color. Nose pops with peaches, limes, honeysuckle, and crushed sweet tarts. Light and fresh with moderate acidity and flavors of peaches in honey, candied orange peel, shaved lemon. Nots of floral perfume and crushed sweet tarts mix with a hint of mint. Fun, straightforward, crowd-friendly stuff. (85 points)
N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light salmon color. Aromas of strawberries and watermelon, McIntosh apple, with chalky, seashell tones, spicy oregano and wildflowers. Fine bubbles on the palate, a round and tropical feel but fresh, too. Red apples, apricot, strawberry, mixed in with green and white teas, talc, mint. Juicy and fun but shows a good amount of complexity as well. 57% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay, 6% Pinot Meunier, 12 g/l dosage. (88 points)
2018 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $48/375ml
Rich yellow color. An explosion of peachy goodness on the nose with guava, orange marmalade, candied ginger, white tea and honey. Plush texture on the palate, with moderating acidity, a rich and honeyed texture, with guava and orange marmalade, yellow plums. Delicious tones of candied ginger, almond cake, unctuous yet shows vibrancy underneath. This is a delicious and complex wine, and the first harvest of this noble rot Sauv Blanc from the Maefield Vineyard Merry planted in 2015. An exceptional holiday choice or bury it in the cellar. (93 points)
Red wines
2016 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
SRP: $65
Medium ruby color. The nose shows suave cherries, red currants, topped in a complex host of leather, pepper, grilled steak, clove, with underlying mushroom and rose petal tones. Medium/full-bodied with solid, grippy tannins and racy acidity. A deep but tart core of black cherries and red currants, chewy, ripe but fresh, and topped in elements of menthol, tar, smoky earth, pepper, mushroom and rose petals. This needs at least a few years or a good decant, but is balanced well and has a lot to offer. (90 points)
2017 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Multi-Appellation - USA, California
SRP: $13/375
Medium ruby color. Aromas of jammy strawberries and cherry pie, cola and rhubarb on top. On the palate, this has velvety tannins, medium-low acidity, and plenty of juicy fruit (raspberries, red plums, cherry cheesecake). Notes of cola, caramel, rose petals, even some earth and herbal tones keep this interesting. Fun accessible, value-driven stuff. Fruit sourced from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Sonoma Counties. (86 points)
2017 Cardinale - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $325
Deep purple color. The nose shows waves of fresh, deep, tangy black currants and cherries, tossed with warm clay, tobacco, potting soil, roasted chestnut, oregano and hot chocolate – it’s a fascinating, diverse, shifting display of aromas. On the palate, this is full but fresh, structured but smooth tannins, and the acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. Plums, cherries, currants, deep but vibrant fruit laced with tobacco, mint, anise, cigar box, tobacco and coffee. Underlying graphite and mineral tones add this integrated, profound feel. This will do excellent things over the next five to 10 years. (96 points)
2017 Barra of Mendocino Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. Boisterous aromas of blackberry and blueberry jam, with smoky earth, dark chocolate, clove and violet petals. Juicy and fun on the palate, warm and inviting with smooth tannins, medium acidity keeps it active. Plummy, blackberry puree and roasted fig tones, mixed with coffee, rocky earth, tilled soil and dark chocolate shavings. Deep but not heavy, stays fresh. Solid value here for near-term wintertime drinking. All Petite Sirah, 14.5% alcohol. (88 points)
2017 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Annapolis Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $110
Light purple color. Deep and saucy aromas of black cherries, dark plums, with lots of interesting mesquite, black pepper, rose petals and leather tones. Full, polished on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity that balances the deep, ripeness of the black cherries and plum cake fruit. Violets, gravelly earth, lots of concentration here with tones of black pepper glaze, dark chocolate and mesquite. A Pinot for Syrah-lovers for sure, and this needs serious time or a decant, but it has a lot going on. (91 points)
2017 Quilceda Creek CVR Columbia Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $70
Medium purple color. Deep and saucy aromatic display of red and black currants and cherries, laced with mesquite, tobacco, rocky earth, tar and coffee tones. Full-bodied, suave but structured, juicy but shows vibrant acidity. A smooth, deep yet tangy display of currant and black cherries, with a complex mix of graphite, loamy earth and rocky tones, iron, tobacco, with these nuances of cocoa powder and vanilla. This could use a few years or give it a really good decant if drinking soon. Cabernet Sauvignon with 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. A delicious, less expensive way to experience the Quilceda Creek goodness. (93 points)
I’m thankful and privileged to be healthy and safe during these pandemic times. But, like many millions of people, my travel plans for this year have evaporated.
For my five-year-old daughter’s birthday this spring, I was thrilled to bring my family to Portugal. It is a country whose culture, wine, waves, food and natural bounty fascinate me to no end. When I’m there, I often think, more than any other place I’ve visited: I should have been born here. While that trip is dashed, I can’t wait to get back when it’s safe to do so.
When I visited the region of Alentejo three years ago, I found an overwhelming amount of diverse and high-quality wines and producers. It was such a treat to dig deep into the region’s tradition of wines fermented in amphora, explore the history and diversity of the region’s adopted red grape Alicante Bouschet, and I was impressed to learn about the exciting white wines produced there as well.
As an outdoors, nature and wildlife enthusiast, it was sometimes hard to think about wine while I was traveling through Alentejo — there was just so many rolling hills, forests, fields, and natural beauty going by outside my window. With relatively low population density, large amounts of uncultivated land, and ever presence of the famous cork forests, the region offers a lot of unspoiled natural beauty and thriving wildlife. Among the group I traveled with was Wines of Alentejo’s U.S. director Tiago Caravana, who, in addition to his wine career, is an incredible wildlife photographer, and was always on point with my random questions about the region’s diverse mammals and birds of prey.
So, I hopped at the chance to attend a webinar with Tiago and others in the region’s trade group this summer. We tasted what I consider to be some really solid examples of what the region can produce, and we spent a lot of time discussing the sustainability efforts of the regional winegrowing commission. Lots of Alentejo producers have been taking sustainable vineyard and winery practices serious for many years, but in 2014, the regional winegrowing commission created a voluntary program called Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program.
This program is designed to improve environmental, social and economic welfare in the region, specifically focusing on issues like water control, pest management, energy conservation, and packaging. Several of the wineries represented in the tasting focused on their attempts at improving sustainability by using sheep to reduce cover crops, utilizing bat boxes to fight pesky insects, increasing use of solar power, reducing bottle weight, etc.
But the proof is in the bottle, and these wines offer a good window into Alentejo’s ancient and thriving wine culture. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2018 Herdade do Esporão “Colheita” Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Generous aromas of nectarine, peaches, cantaloupe, with honeycomb, hay, nougat and floral perfume. Creamy texture on the palate with crisp acidity, deep but balanced with lovely yellow plums, apricot and orange peel. Juicy, deep but bright with notes of sea salt, chalk, toasted almond, honey, hay and candle wax. Expressive, complex, everything is lined up wonderfully in this crazy value of a white wine. Antao Vas, Viosinho, Alvarinho and other white grapes, fermented partially in concrete, aged on the lees for four months. (90 points)
2018 Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas “Sao Miguel do Sul” - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $12
Medium purple color. Aromas of jammy raspberry, blackberries, with vanilla, grilled herbs, pepper and cola. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, medium/low acidity. A soft, accessible, chewy feel with sweet plum and raspberry jams, along with some cocoa, cola and tobacco. Fun, easy-drinking stuff but some freshness and complexity as well. Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. (86 points)
2018 Herdade dos Grous Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $19
Light purple color. On the nose, with jammy raspberries, strawberry, with smoky earth, mint, charcoal, rose petals. Bold but surprisingly fresh on the palate with velvety tannins and plenty of raspberry, black cherry and plum jam fruit. Notes of spicy tobacco, earth, mint, cocoa powder make this a dynamic wine for the price. Fresh but complex, delightfully grill-out friendly. 35% Alicante Bouschet, 35% Aragonez with Touriga Nacional and Syrah, aged nine months in French oak. (88 points)
2017 Herdade dos Coelheiros “Coelheiros” - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Rich, suave aromas of black currants, black cherries, roasted plums, with smoky earth, cocoa, ginger snaps and pepper. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, medium acidity keeps it lively. Suave blackberry and roasted fig fruit mixes with notes of pencil lead, cocoa, coffee, vanilla. Fresh despite the generosity of fruit. Could age but great now for grilling. Real good stuff for Zinfandel fans looking to branch out. Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet, aged 12 months in French oak. (88 points)
2014 Carmim Reguengos “Garrafeira dos Sócios” - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Reguengos
SRP: $48
Medium purple color. Complex aromas of tart cherries and blackberries, with deep green and black olive tones, tilled earth, anise and coffee grounds. Full-bodied, with dusty tannins, medium acidity, a structured but lively feel. Cherries and blackberries mix well with complex notes of anise, leather, charcoal, dusty earth, mineral and rocky elements. This is in a great place right now, and just goes to show how well Alentejo wines can age. Alicante Bouschet with 20% Touriga Nacional and 15% Tinta Caiada, aged in French and American oak for 14 months. (90 points)
In these times of pandemic and uncertainty, I’ve found some respite in reading travel books. Being stuck at home for months on end, I have spent a lot of time letting my mind wander as I plan and lust for travel in for post-pandemic times.
As a lover of South Africa and its wines, I was excited to read through Jim Clarke’s new book “The Wines of South Africa.” It has now been six years since my first and only trip to South Africa, where I spent three weeks checking out my three favorite things: waves, wine and wildlife. While reading Jim’s helpful book, I found myself revisiting so many amazing memories, and wishing to make more during future South Africa trips.
Jim Clarke is a writer, educator and all-around South African wine guru. He first traveled to South Africa in 2006, one what would be one of many trips as he delved into the people and places in this dynamic wine scene. Since 2013, he has worked as U.S. marketing manager for Wines of South Africa, the trade group that organizes and supports exports of South African wine. I’ve met Jim at trade events over the years — he always in his dapper fedora hat, me always in my newsie-style cap — and he is such a knowledgeable, personable, genuine guy, and I’m not sure there’s anyone better to write this book.
In the introduction, Clarke reflects on being impressed with the diversity and potential of the South African wine scene during his first trip: “this was not simply an emerging wine industry, but an industry reborn.”
“Since around 2008, more and more producers have been allowing the country’s terroir to represent itself unmasked and without affectation,” Clarke writes. “The peaks of South African wine are higher, and the clumsy wines of the past are bygones, or at least as rare as they are in other modernized wine-producing countries.”
The first chunk of the book is a fascinating history of winemaking in South Africa. It is such a complex and complicated history, that I won’t attempt to summarize portions of it here. Suffice it to say, from 1659 onward, Clarke offers a lot to learn, and he does a great job weaving this history into the complex issues facing contemporary South Africa.
In a section devoted to “transformation and other contemporary issues,” Clarke is frank and sensitive in his discussion of the lasting effects of racism and apartheid on the wine industry. He writes of South African winemaking being “deeply tied together with the country’s broader history, which embodies both a pioneering spirit and deeply colonial, racist attitudes and policies,” and highlights the importance of an honest discussion of the country’s past in order to make change and progress.
The section on the “structures, regulations and institutions of South African wine” is a helpful analysis of the complexities and unique elements of the country’s wine industry. Far more than a dry recitation of rules, Clarke provides a lot of details that would be helpful for folks in the trade.
I really geeked out on the geography and climate portion of the book, which is detailed and great for reference. The vast differences in regional topography, soil and climates in South Africa has long fascinated me, and it makes for interesting reading.
After a summary of the leading grape varieties and wine styles, Clarke moves into profiles of different winegrowing regions. Unlike a lot of straight-up reference books or tourist guides, Clarke this isn’t an exhaustive list of producers or places to visit. For each region, he summarizes what makes the region unique, how its history relates to the current wine scene, and highlights some of the major players. It was a lot of fun revisiting all of my favorite producers, but I also learned a lot and heard many producers for the first time. If you’re looking to dig further into South African wines and, like me, prefer having something tangible to refer to – this paperback is a solid.
South African wine has been on a long, upward hike toward more global recognition, and this book chronicles how we got to this point in the life of South African wine. It’s definitely worth a read for any fans, anyone planning travel, or anyone in the wine trade who wants to hone their knowledge on South Africa’s awesome wines.
“The Wines of South Africa” by Jim Clarke
U.S. paperback price: $39.95.
Publisher: Infinite Ideas
Available at Amazon Books and Barnes & Noble
Released July 2020
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
This week I’m back with another roundup of wines from California, including some new-to-me producers, and some I’ve known and loved for many years.
In the latter category, Smith Madrone’s new Chardonnay and Cab are true to their roots, delivering complex, intriguing, delicious Spring Mountain wines whose price points still baffle me.
Louis Martini’s iconic Monte Rosso vineyard, and their Lot 1 Cabernet, are the type of wines I’d want to cellar or enjoy some cold evening this winter.
St. Helena’s Battuello comes through with some interesting offerings from their estate vineyards, which dates back five generations, when Matteo Battuello established it in 1909. The two Valdiguiés that are so delicious, and their Petit Verdot is a stunner.
A delicious, screaming value of a Grenache Blanc and some Sauvignon Blancs round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Whites and Rosés
2019 Rombauer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Aromas boast lemon, apricot, green apples, with some green onion, mint and honeysuckle as well. Fleshy texture on the palate, nice creaminess with racy acidity, well-focused. A fruit salad of ruby red grapefruit, lemon slices, white peach, with some chalky, rocky, tones. Notes of honeysuckle, mint and sea salt. Juicy and fun but expressive and fresh as well. 64% Napa fruit, the rest from Sonoma, fermented mostly in stainless steel with some old French oak and concrete. (89 points)
2019 Stonestreet Sauvignon Blanc Cougar Ridge - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. Aromas of grapefruit, lemon and papaya with mountain stream, whipped honey and white flowers. Crisp but creamy on the palate with a stony, bright feel that balances well with juicy, fleshy texture, but it stays balanced throughout. Yellow plums, papaya, lime, mixed with chalk, mineral undertones and creamy, honeyed elements. A lot going on here, sort of like a bunch of different SB styles rolled into one, and it is done really well. (91 points)
2018 La Pelle Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Pale lemon color. Crunchy, inviting aromas of green and yellow apples, topped in lemongrass, mint, and a good dose of sea salt. Precision guides the palate; this is crisp, crunchy, with slight creamy tones and solid depth. Lemon, green apple and kiwi fruit blends well with saline, chalk, white floral tones. Lovely depth, minerality, focus. No gimmicks here, just bright, clear, complex, beautiful Napa Sauvignon Blanc. (92 points)
2018 Priest Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
A fascinating pale copper color. So bright on the nose, with this burst of lime, kiwi and green apple, met with sliced cucumber, flower stems, oyster shells and brine, chalk dust. Gorgeous texture on the palate, lush but precise, with focused acidity on a medium/full-bodied frame. Crunchy green apples, limes, kiwi and orange peel – such crisp and delicious fruit. Mouthwatering and vibrant, with notes of saline, crushed shells, floral perfume, white tea. This is rocking, especially if you’ve tired of heavier California white Rhone wines. From a 1,250-foot elevation vineyard all stainless steel, native yeasts and eight months of lees aging. For $22? Absurd. (91 points)
2018 Chalone Vineyard Chardonnay - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Delightful nose of lemon curd, orange peel, crunchy apricot, along with notes of peanut shell, white tea, chalk dust, perfume and honey. On the palate, this shows a plump but tangy fruit (nectarine, lemon, apricot) on a frame of precise, focused acidity. Pretty notes of honey, almond skin, hay and ginger complement the stony mineral and sea salt notes. Pure, vibrant, complex – it really doesn’t get much better for a California Chardonnay at this price point. (89 points)
2018 Ram's Gate Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $46
Medium yellow with a buttery, honeyed nose, along with papaya, lemon curd, yellow apples, with some dandelion and honeysuckle. Plush and juicy on the palate, medium acidity, the fruit shows a mix of yellow apples, pineapple, lemon bars, mixed with components of honey, graham cracker, but also expressive chalky, river rock tones. Fun stuff, punchy, vibrant style that shows solid complexity, too. 25% maloactic fermentation, aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (89 points)
2018 Ram's Gate Chardonnay El Diablo Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Rich yellow color. Inviting nose of yellow apples, baked plums, honeycomb, graham crackers, walnut shell, also notes of hay and chalk. Plush texture on the palate, plump but lovely freshness, with golden apples, apricot and pear fruit. Notes of honey, nougat, candied ginger mix with underlying mineral and seashell notes. Lush but complex and very pretty. 38% maloactic fermentation, aged 11 months in 35% new French oak. (91 points)
2017 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $40
Deep yellow color. Inviting, complex aromas of apple butter, lemon curd, grapefruit zesty, topped in notes of honey, graham cracker, sea salt and ginger. Harmonious, complex nose for sure. Rich texture on the palate, the creaminess is matched by this racy, salty aesthetic. Lemon curd, yellow apple and apricot fruit meld well with white tea, graham cracker and ginger, along with these stony, mineral, mountain stream elements. Consistently, such an overperforming Chardonnay that screams value, and the 2017 is a really expressive, vibrant iteration. Aged 10 months in 85% new French oak. (94 points)
2018 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Selection - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Plump aromas of yellow apples and pears, topped in almond, peanut skin, honey, with some chalk dust and floral perfume. Juicy and ripe but the acidity is delightful and precise, framing the wine well and keeping it fresh, while the waves of yellow apple and lemon curd fruit roll in. Has deep, nutty, graham cracker, honeyed tones, but also fresh elements of mountain stream and yellow flowers. Lots of precision and complexity here for the price. Aged eight months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)
2019 Notre Vue Chardonnay Musqué - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $36
Light yellow color. The nose starts with a kick of mint and sliced cucumber, with green apples, lemon and kiwi, and lots of floral tones. Creamy texture meets crisp acidity on the palate, with green apples, white peaches and limes. Floral and bright but lovely texture, and notes of chalk, celery seed, sliced cucumber. Bright and inviting, this rides a nice line, a lighter, nuanced style. (89 points)
2019 Notre Vue GSM Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $29
Vibrant salmon color. Aromas of hay, honeysuckle, wildflowers and mint on top of gushing peach and honeydew fruit – so inviting. Plush texture meets rushing acidity on the palate, really well-balanced with chunks of melon and peach. Complex notes of cut flower stems, sea salt, punchy but also crisp and bright throughout. A spicy, inviting, floral finish – very impressive. (90 points)
2019 Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $28
Juicy strawberry color. The nose shows raspberries, white cherries, red apple, watermelon rind, along with rhubarb and celery seed. Juicy and ripe on the palate, but it shows crisp and focused acidity, along with a crushable, delicious feel. Mint, flinty, white pepper and magnolia tones add complexity. Fun and delicious but shows solid complexity and depth. (90 points)
Reds
2018 Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Fruity, fun but exciting aromas of cherries, plums, violets, some cinnamon and earth tones. Juicy and smooth on the palate, a velvety/light tannic feel mixes with vibrant acidity. Juicy red cherries and wild blackberries mix with elements of violets, pepper, anise, also some graphite, milk chocolate and coffee. This is a fun but complex and exotic Valdiguié worth seeking out. (91 points)
2017 Battuello Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $90
Deep purple color. Saucy, deep aromas with plums, jammy blackberries, with roasted coffee, vanilla, anise, mocha, deep, sweet earth. Full-bodied, rich with chewy tannins and moderate acidity. Plummy, saucy, deep blueberries and sweet blackberries. Notes of mocha, vanilla, charcoal and clove add complexity. A big but charming Cab that has complexities to uncover in the decanter or a few years in the cellar. (89 points)
2018 Battuello Vineyards Petit Verdot Battuello Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
SRP: $70
Dark purple color. The nose is deep and saucy with blackberries and roasted fig, lots of graphite, smoky charcoal, black pepper, with violets and clove. Full-bodied on the palate with solid, grippy tannins but the acidity is vibrant and keeps the wine balanced. Dark plums, blackberries and roasted figs (rich but vibrant fruit) mixed with complex elements of rocky earth, anise, black pepper, with nuanced mocha and caramel tones. Complex, delicious, this is one to age or crack around a campfire with grilled steaks. (91 points)
2018 Banshee Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $28
Deep ruby color. Aromas of jammy cherries, cool, chilled blackberry, along with cola, roses, fallen leaves and potting soil – quite a bit going on here. Juicy and fresh on the palate, this is a medium-bodied Pinot with smooth tannins and fresh acidity. Red and black cherry fruit, raspberry jam, topped in cola, light roast coffee, roses and clove, even some leathery, minty, earthy accents. Yummy but crisp, accessible and fan-friendly but shows complexity and value as well. (88 points)
2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $125
Light purple color. Gorgeous, expressive, vibrant aromas of anise, tobacco, violets, warm clay and cocoa, over top of saucy plums and black cherries. Full-bodied on the palate with earthy, dusty tannins, showing grip but accessibility, with moderating acidity – it’s big but balanced really well. Suave, complex fruit (currants, black cherries and plums) mix with notes of tobacco, mint, dark chocolate, graphite, minerals, violets. Shows structure, freshness and aging potential, but beautiful already. It’s great to see this wine continue to excel. All Monte Rosso fruit, includes 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, aged 26 months in a mix of French oak (75% new) and American oak (19% new). (94 points)
2016 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Lot No. 1 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $250
Vibrant purple color. Suave, deep aromas of blackberries, black currants, roasted fig, laced with tobacco, leather, pencil shavings, cocoa – takes time and air to really bring out the aromatic complexities, but there’s a ton in here. Full-bodied, solid tannins for aging but no harsh edges, the acidity is lovely and fresh. A deep, tangy core of black cherries, red and black currants, plum skins, mixed with delicious elements of tobacco, leather, cigar shop, some black pepper and clay. Notes of stony, mineral and graphite blend with cocoa and vanilla. Complex, age-worthy but vibrant, age this for five to 10 years or give it a solid decant. 100% Cabernet aged 21 months in 93% new French oak. (94 points)
2016 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $58
Medium purple color. Aromas show tart but deep currants and black cherries, with lots of earthy, spicy complexity (tobacco, paved road, warm clay, graphite) with dark chocolate and espresso notes. Full but nuanced on the palate, well-built, grippy but refined tannins support juicy, tart red and black currant, and the balance between all these elements is lovely. Notes of leather, black pepper, tobacco leaf, mint, along with charcoal, vanilla and cedar nuances. Delicious, pretty, packs complexity and nuance. Long life ahead for this beautiful Cab. Includes a combined 10% Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this is aged 19 months in 45% new French oak. (93 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Happy Friday, and I hope, if you’re reading this, you are healthy and well. This week, I have a mix of wines from two of my favorite U.S. states.
I’ve written a lot about Arizona wines in the past, since I’ve been visiting the state to hike and visit family for the past 10 years or so. The Arizona wine scene is diverse, and my favorites tend to be hard to find. But Aridus, based in the high-elevation region of Willcox, makes more widely-available wines that offer a good introduction to what the state has to offer.
Living in DC, I will admit my local bias: I am passionate about the land and wines of the commonwealth of Virginia. I recently caught up for a virtual chat with Virginia wine guru Frank Morgan, and four producers to taste and talk about what’s going on in Virginia wine these days. If you haven’t tried Virginia Petit Manseng or Petit Verdot, and are up for venturing out into new territory, there are two excellent examples in this report.
There’s also a lonely Oregon wine in this report as well.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Aridus Chardonnay Barrel Select - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $47
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd and bruised pear with salted peanut, pecans, whipped butter. Plump texture on a medium-bodied frame with balanced acid and notes of nougat, honeycomb, butterscotch and white tea to mix with the apricot and yellow apple fruit. A fun, crowd-friendly style. (86 points)
2016 Aridus Grenache - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $40
Deep raspberry color. Nose shows melted red licorice with spicy red currants and raspberries, topped in smoky earth, a dry rub of paprika, pepper and red pepper flakes. On the palate, this is a medium/full-bodied wine with a juicy and fun appeal, low tannins, medium/low acidity. Cherries and raspberries mix with pepper, clove, paprika and rose petals. Ripe but nuanced. Showing freshness and spiciness – solid introduction to Arizona’s take on Rhone varieties. Includes 10% Graciano, aged 18 months in oak. (88 points)
2017 Aridus Tempranillo - USA, Arizona
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Aromas show jams of sweet raspberries and red cherries, along with some tobacco, smoky earth, warm clay and mesquite smoke. Plush texture on a medium-bodied palate with some moderate acidity for balance, showing a smooth, chewy but fresh approach. Jammy raspberry and plum fruit mixed with notes of oregano, creosote, dusty earth. Ripe and fun, but fresh and shows savory complexity – a killer grill wine that could also age for a few. (88 points)
2017 Aridus Petite Sirah - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $39
Dark purple color. On the nose, I get blackberry, roasted figs, with black pepper, pine, wild herb tones. Full-bodied, the tannins have this chewy feel and medium/low acidity holds it together. The blackberry and black currant fruit mixes well with notes of tar, dark chocolate, black tea and some mineral, rocky tones and cedar. If you’re a Petite Sirah fan, and interested in Arizona wines, you have to check this one out. Aged in 90% new oak for 28 months. (88 points)
2018 Acrobat Winery Pinot Gris - USA, Oregon
SRP: $15
Light yellow, copper-tinged color. Perfumed aromas of dandelion and magnolia petals, with cucumber slices, over top white peach and kiwi fruit. Texture is juicy and ripe with pleasantly balanced, bright acidity. Lemon and white peach fruit blend with verbena, dandelion, some chalky, flinty tones. Quite complex and balanced for a wine at this price point. Solid value! (88 points)
2018 Narmada Winery Mom - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Rappahannock County
SRP: $21
Light yellow color. Bright aromas of lemons and peaches and lots of tropical flowers, topped with nettle and sea salt notes. Juicy chunks of pineapple, peach and papaya on the palate, but this is a focused wine with precise acidity. The 1.7% residual sugar is woven in really well, and the acidity keeps this zesty and fresh. Lots of floral complexity, verbena, mint, sea salt. Really interesting stuff, worth checking out, especially for the price. It made me think of a blend between Alsace and Alto Adige white wines. A stainless steel blend of Vidal Blanc, Chardonel and Chardonnay. (88 points)
2018 Walsh Family Wine Petit Manseng North Gate Vineyard - USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia, Loudoun County
SRP: $30
Light gold color. Delicious, inviting nose of white peaches, guava, limes, along with honey, white flowers and a cool kick of sea salt and chalk dust. Plump texture but the acidity is focused and sharp, mixed with juicy nectarines, peaches and lemons. I get complex elements of almond skin, honeyed green tea, with rushing minerals and chalk dust. Deep but precise, complex but gluggable, this is a beautiful Petit Manseng that should age nicely. (90 points)
2018 Blenheim Vineyards Cabernet Franc - USA, Virginia
SRP: $22
Vibrant purple color. Juicy, fresh aromas of plums, tangy blackberries and black cherries, with smoky, earthy tones, anise and magic marker. Accessible on the palate with dusty tannins and fresh acidity, with a core of tangy black cherry and blackberry fruit. Notes of violets, tobacco, mint mix with graphite and cedar. Tangy, fresh, but enough depth, too. Delicious and a solid value, reliable Virginia Cab Franc. Sourced from two sites in Shenandoah and Southern Virginia. Aged nine months in 90% French and 10% American oak. (88 points)
2017 Williamsburg Winery Petit Verdot Reserve - USA, Virginia
SRP: $49
Vibrant purple color. Nose shows tart dark currants and plums, saucy black cherries, with smoky, graphite, charcoal tones, cocoa powder and some leather, too. Vibrant acidity meet grippy tannins, and the balance is impressive. The fruit is a warm, tart compote of blackberry and black currant, tossed with oregano, anise, roasted coffee, cocoa, cedar and graphite. Lovely now but this deserves some time in the cellar (four to six or so). All Petit Verdot, aged in 40% new French oak. (90 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
