This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
Cadaretta is a small producer based in Walla Walla, which was established in 2005 by the Middleton family. They produce a Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend, a Cab Sauv, a Syrah, and a Rhone blend. Most of the wines are sold to mailing list customers, winery visitors and a handful of retailers and restaurants. The wines are solid across the board, and, while not inexpensive, they’re delicious.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Cadaretta SBS - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $23
Pale lemon color. Smells of lemongrass, cut flower stems, sea salt, honeysuckle, on top of lemon and apricot fruit. Plump texture but tart acidity on the palate. The green apple, lemon/lime and apricot fruit is vibrant but crunchy, and I get notes of cucumber water, wildflowers, candle wax, honeyed tea. Lots going on here but it retains a fresh and easy-sipping appeal. 89% Sauvignon Blanc and 11% Sémillon, all stainless steel with three months of lees contact. (87 points)
2012 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $50
Vibrant purple color. Explosive nose of bright but juicy red and black currants, plums, topped with eucalyptus, cedar shavings, menthol and a rich soil note. Full-bodied with velvety but structured tannins and a nice kick of acidity to keep the wine moving forward. Black currant and dark plum skins mix with a host of complex flavors: eucalyptus, coffee, tar, tobacco leaf, cedar and vanilla. A rich but balanced wine that should unravel nicely over the next 3-5 years. Includes 6% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot, aged 20 months in 90% new French oak. (89 points)
2013 Cadaretta Syrah - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $35
Deep purple color. Smells of black cherries, blackberries, roasted plums, add in some smoke, spicy pepper, coffee and vanilla. Full and saucy on the palate with fleshy but grippy tannins and medium acidity, which adds a nice tart edge. Black currant and blackberry jam fruit blends nicely with smoke, charcoal and pepper. I also get some nice kicks of coffee, vanilla and warm mocha. Rich but quite complex, showing some aging potential in the near future. Includes 11% Mourvedre, 5% Grenache and 2% Viognier. Aged 21 months in French and American oak. (89 points)
2013 Cadaretta Windthrow - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. On the nose: tart black currants and juicy black cherries, a real sense of leather (like a new leather jacket), pepper, sweet coffee and roasted nuts. Full and mouth-filling with medium strength tannins and a fresh shot of acidity that keeps it moving forward. Tart black cherries and blackberry jam mix with smoke, tar, leather and pepper. A woody, cigar lounge aspect and the oak is integrated quite well. Will be better in a few years but very nice stuff. 75% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre and 8% Cinsault. Aged 17 months in 1/3 new French oak. (88 points)
Isaac James Baker writer, wildlife photographer, climber, hiker, surfer, and all-around fan of wild places and experiences.
Sunday, November 6, 2016
Monday, October 31, 2016
Happy Halloween! Here are Some Wine and Candy Pairings
Halloween is by far my favorite holiday. And even though it falls on a Monday this year, there's still time to unwrap some candy bars, uncork some wine, and have a damned good time.
I'm not a huge fan of chocolate or candy and wine pairings but there are some really good ones, if you're a sweet tooth fan looking for a buzz with your sugar rush.
I propose Reese's cups and Malvasia Madeira in my latest submission for the Snooth wine website.
Click here to read a range of wine and candy pairings from some great wine writers.
I'm not a huge fan of chocolate or candy and wine pairings but there are some really good ones, if you're a sweet tooth fan looking for a buzz with your sugar rush.
I propose Reese's cups and Malvasia Madeira in my latest submission for the Snooth wine website.
Click here to read a range of wine and candy pairings from some great wine writers.
Sunday, October 30, 2016
Australian Gems & Bargains: Two Hands & Hope Estate
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
This week I’m focusing on two Australian producers, Two Hands and Hope Estate.
Fronted by Michael Twelftree, with Ben Perkins as winemaker, Two Hands focuses on wines from McLaren Vale and Barossa, especially big, burly, seductive Shiraz. Since kicking off in 2000, Two Hands wines have received effusive praise from big wine publications and won spots on numerous Top 10 lists.
I’ve been interested in Two Hands wines since I was a legal purchaser of alcohol. Back then, I couldn't afford the wines, but I was obsessed with Australia and spent too much time drooling over tasting notes and high scores. Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to taste a whole lot of Two Hands wines, from the massive flagship Ares Shiraz to the delightful and fun Brilliant Disguise Moscato. The wines are all expertly made and delicious. I can’t think of an outlier.
Hope Estate was new to me, although it’s been around since 1994, when proprietor Michael Hope purchased a property in Hunter Valley with about 30 acres of vines. The entire property is massive (about 250 acres), and it has been developed as a big Hunter Valley destination. It now boasts an amphitheater that can hold up to 20,000 guests, apparently big enough that The Boss himself (Broooce!) is playing there in 2017 — holy shit!
Hope Estate wines are moderately priced and crowd-pleasing, although they’re well-made and quite complex (even age-worthy) for their price points.
These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon Sexy Beast - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
This week I’m focusing on two Australian producers, Two Hands and Hope Estate.
Fronted by Michael Twelftree, with Ben Perkins as winemaker, Two Hands focuses on wines from McLaren Vale and Barossa, especially big, burly, seductive Shiraz. Since kicking off in 2000, Two Hands wines have received effusive praise from big wine publications and won spots on numerous Top 10 lists.
I’ve been interested in Two Hands wines since I was a legal purchaser of alcohol. Back then, I couldn't afford the wines, but I was obsessed with Australia and spent too much time drooling over tasting notes and high scores. Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to taste a whole lot of Two Hands wines, from the massive flagship Ares Shiraz to the delightful and fun Brilliant Disguise Moscato. The wines are all expertly made and delicious. I can’t think of an outlier.
Hope Estate was new to me, although it’s been around since 1994, when proprietor Michael Hope purchased a property in Hunter Valley with about 30 acres of vines. The entire property is massive (about 250 acres), and it has been developed as a big Hunter Valley destination. It now boasts an amphitheater that can hold up to 20,000 guests, apparently big enough that The Boss himself (Broooce!) is playing there in 2017 — holy shit!
Hope Estate wines are moderately priced and crowd-pleasing, although they’re well-made and quite complex (even age-worthy) for their price points.
These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon Sexy Beast - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $36
Lively red currant color. Dark and saucy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, black currant, along with spiced tea, clove, menthol, vanilla bean and cedar. Full-bodied with fleshy tannins, this is such a velvety/rich mouthfeel but it goes down quite easily in spite of that. Juicy black cherry, black currant fruit mix with a hint of tart blueberry. Deep earthiness in this wine, like charcoal pit, tree bark, loamy soil, pine sap — the whole deal (but in a really tasty way). Lots of clove, coffee and dark chocolate notes as well. Lots of complexity in here but the deliciousness factor of the fruit is way up there. Tasty now, but this should get more luscious over the next three to four years. Aged in 15% new French oak. (89 points)
Lively red currant color. Dark and saucy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, black currant, along with spiced tea, clove, menthol, vanilla bean and cedar. Full-bodied with fleshy tannins, this is such a velvety/rich mouthfeel but it goes down quite easily in spite of that. Juicy black cherry, black currant fruit mix with a hint of tart blueberry. Deep earthiness in this wine, like charcoal pit, tree bark, loamy soil, pine sap — the whole deal (but in a really tasty way). Lots of clove, coffee and dark chocolate notes as well. Lots of complexity in here but the deliciousness factor of the fruit is way up there. Tasty now, but this should get more luscious over the next three to four years. Aged in 15% new French oak. (89 points)
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smoky, earthy, savory notes on the nose (pepper, barbecue sauce, scorched earth) on top of gobs of black cherry and blackberry fruit, add in some sweet cola and vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but velvety tannins – some medium acidity helps. Black cherry, blueberry, blackberry jam, the fruit is rich and loaded but not baked. Lots of pepper, soy, scorched earth notes to bounce off the dark roast coffee, roasted chestnut, cinnamon sticks and clove notes. Rich and generous but complex and very interesting. Curious to see how this ages of four or five years. Aged in 6% new French oak and the rest old French and American oak. (90 points)
Deep purple color. Smoky, earthy, savory notes on the nose (pepper, barbecue sauce, scorched earth) on top of gobs of black cherry and blackberry fruit, add in some sweet cola and vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but velvety tannins – some medium acidity helps. Black cherry, blueberry, blackberry jam, the fruit is rich and loaded but not baked. Lots of pepper, soy, scorched earth notes to bounce off the dark roast coffee, roasted chestnut, cinnamon sticks and clove notes. Rich and generous but complex and very interesting. Curious to see how this ages of four or five years. Aged in 6% new French oak and the rest old French and American oak. (90 points)
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smells dark and juicy with blackberries, plums and roasted figs along with smoky bacon, beef brisket and pepper. Medium-plus-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with rounded edges on the tannins and some freshness from the acidity. Plums, blackberries and blueberries, the fruit is ripe but stays tart. Notes of smoke, graphite, earth, clove and sweet coffee add complexity. Pretty, bold but vibrant as well, a bit more freshness than the Angel's Share Shiraz. Aged 12 months in 15% new French oak. (90 points)
Deep purple color. Smells dark and juicy with blackberries, plums and roasted figs along with smoky bacon, beef brisket and pepper. Medium-plus-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with rounded edges on the tannins and some freshness from the acidity. Plums, blackberries and blueberries, the fruit is ripe but stays tart. Notes of smoke, graphite, earth, clove and sweet coffee add complexity. Pretty, bold but vibrant as well, a bit more freshness than the Angel's Share Shiraz. Aged 12 months in 15% new French oak. (90 points)
SRP: $69
Medium purple color. Aromatically rich but air and time coaxes out all sorts of nuance. Black cherry and blueberry fruit is lush and juicy, topped in notes of mint, dark chocolate, deep violets, potting soil, coffee and fruit cake. Obviously full-bodied, the tannins frame the wine nicely but the mouthfeel is velvety, medium-low acidity. Mouthfeel is absolutely gorgeous. Black cherry, blueberry sauce and plum cake, dark but suave fruit, backed up by notes of roasted chestnut, campfire pit, but also some lovely violet, rich earth and roasted herb notes. I get this really cool mix of beef bouillon and black pepper. Dark and bold and age-worthy but full of life and pretty elements, even at this young age. Aged 18 months in 6% new French oak. (93 points)
Medium purple color. Aromatically rich but air and time coaxes out all sorts of nuance. Black cherry and blueberry fruit is lush and juicy, topped in notes of mint, dark chocolate, deep violets, potting soil, coffee and fruit cake. Obviously full-bodied, the tannins frame the wine nicely but the mouthfeel is velvety, medium-low acidity. Mouthfeel is absolutely gorgeous. Black cherry, blueberry sauce and plum cake, dark but suave fruit, backed up by notes of roasted chestnut, campfire pit, but also some lovely violet, rich earth and roasted herb notes. I get this really cool mix of beef bouillon and black pepper. Dark and bold and age-worthy but full of life and pretty elements, even at this young age. Aged 18 months in 6% new French oak. (93 points)
SRP: $69
Medium purple color. Lots of inky fruit on the nose (blueberry, boysenberry, black cherry), needs more time to open up but shows roasted coffee, loamy soil, dark chocolate and graphite. Mouth-filling texture, still velvety tannins but a bit chewier than Lilly’s Garden, medium-low acidity. Black cherry and dark, concentrated blueberry extract coats the palate. Scorched earth, coffee, dark chocolate, pencil shavings, loads of complex elements, and underneath there’s a delicious black olive streak needs time to come out. This will get far more nuanced with five to six years and continue to be delicious for longer. Aged 18 months in French oak (16% new). (91 points)
Medium purple color. Lots of inky fruit on the nose (blueberry, boysenberry, black cherry), needs more time to open up but shows roasted coffee, loamy soil, dark chocolate and graphite. Mouth-filling texture, still velvety tannins but a bit chewier than Lilly’s Garden, medium-low acidity. Black cherry and dark, concentrated blueberry extract coats the palate. Scorched earth, coffee, dark chocolate, pencil shavings, loads of complex elements, and underneath there’s a delicious black olive streak needs time to come out. This will get far more nuanced with five to six years and continue to be delicious for longer. Aged 18 months in French oak (16% new). (91 points)
SRP: $185
Gorgeous, vibrant purple color. The purity and complexity of fruit aromas is really astounding: boysenberry, blueberry, black cherry, juicy summer plums, the fruit is so vibrant, but it’s mixed in with waves of coffee, sweet violets, sarsaparilla, mint, dark chocolate. Full-bodied on the palate, serious grip to the tannins, the acidity is a bit low for my liking but it still holds it together. This is a velvety, voluptuous wines that coats the palate without feeling too heavy (despite the 15.5% alcohol). Same complexity of juicy blue and black fruit abounds on the palate. Gorgeous fruit! Notes of anise, coffee, mint, violets, loamy soil, graphite, dark chocolate shavings — so much complexity to unpack here over the next decade but this is a beautiful young Ares. Aged 23 months in French oak (last year in all new). (94+ points)
Gorgeous, vibrant purple color. The purity and complexity of fruit aromas is really astounding: boysenberry, blueberry, black cherry, juicy summer plums, the fruit is so vibrant, but it’s mixed in with waves of coffee, sweet violets, sarsaparilla, mint, dark chocolate. Full-bodied on the palate, serious grip to the tannins, the acidity is a bit low for my liking but it still holds it together. This is a velvety, voluptuous wines that coats the palate without feeling too heavy (despite the 15.5% alcohol). Same complexity of juicy blue and black fruit abounds on the palate. Gorgeous fruit! Notes of anise, coffee, mint, violets, loamy soil, graphite, dark chocolate shavings — so much complexity to unpack here over the next decade but this is a beautiful young Ares. Aged 23 months in French oak (last year in all new). (94+ points)
SRP: $14
Pale lemon color. Aromas of juicy peaches, nectarines, candied lime, hints of salted almond and honeysuckle. Light-bodied (11.5% alcohol) with zesty acidity, this is a bright and lip-smacking wine. Tangy limes, apricots, zesty and tart but interesting with its perfumed, honeyed notes. Lingering minerality and salinity on the finish. Delicious now but I’m curious to see how this ages. (87 points)
Pale lemon color. Aromas of juicy peaches, nectarines, candied lime, hints of salted almond and honeysuckle. Light-bodied (11.5% alcohol) with zesty acidity, this is a bright and lip-smacking wine. Tangy limes, apricots, zesty and tart but interesting with its perfumed, honeyed notes. Lingering minerality and salinity on the finish. Delicious now but I’m curious to see how this ages. (87 points)
SRP: $14
Medium yellow color. Aromas of juicy yellow apples blend with honey, almond, some brighter floral tones. Plump and juicy texture on the palate but fresh acidity. White peach, baked apple, almond paste, toasted bread, honey, a lot of delicious flavors but the wine maintains an impressive amount of vibrancy and balance. This has a lot to offer for people all over the Chardonnay palate spectrum. (87 points)
Medium yellow color. Aromas of juicy yellow apples blend with honey, almond, some brighter floral tones. Plump and juicy texture on the palate but fresh acidity. White peach, baked apple, almond paste, toasted bread, honey, a lot of delicious flavors but the wine maintains an impressive amount of vibrancy and balance. This has a lot to offer for people all over the Chardonnay palate spectrum. (87 points)
SRP: $18
Juicy purple color. Aromas of smoky blackberry and dark currants, spicy peppered steak, and sweet clove and vanilla. On the palate, this is full-bodied with moderate tannins and medium/low acidity. Tart blackberries and blueberry fruit plays well with savory spice and peppered jerky notes, along with some toast and vanilla. Really good stuff if you like some pepper and meat in your Shiraz. Easy-drinking and pleasurable but shows some guts and near-term aging potential. Aged 12-15 months in French and American oak. This wine comes from a site in West Oz purchased in 2000. (88 points)
Juicy purple color. Aromas of smoky blackberry and dark currants, spicy peppered steak, and sweet clove and vanilla. On the palate, this is full-bodied with moderate tannins and medium/low acidity. Tart blackberries and blueberry fruit plays well with savory spice and peppered jerky notes, along with some toast and vanilla. Really good stuff if you like some pepper and meat in your Shiraz. Easy-drinking and pleasurable but shows some guts and near-term aging potential. Aged 12-15 months in French and American oak. This wine comes from a site in West Oz purchased in 2000. (88 points)
SRP: $15
Deep purple color. Aromas of smoky black cherries and roasted plums, along with charcoal, grilled herbs and leather notes. Medium-bodied with silky and approachable tannins and medium acid. Flavors of tart blueberry and roasted plum mix nicely with leather and charcoal notes. Rounded out with some wood and vanilla. A tasty, crowd-pleasing, near-term drinker. Aged in new and used French oak for 13 months. (86 points)
Deep purple color. Aromas of smoky black cherries and roasted plums, along with charcoal, grilled herbs and leather notes. Medium-bodied with silky and approachable tannins and medium acid. Flavors of tart blueberry and roasted plum mix nicely with leather and charcoal notes. Rounded out with some wood and vanilla. A tasty, crowd-pleasing, near-term drinker. Aged in new and used French oak for 13 months. (86 points)
Friday, October 28, 2016
Four Exciting Virginia Wines
For the past few years, I’ve been tasting my way through Virginia wine with the state’s wine guru, Frank Morgan, host of Virginia Wine Chat (#VAWineChat). We’ve focused on many of Virginia’s finest wineries (Keswick, Horton, Michael Shaps), highlighting the diversity and quality of Virginia wine and fighting back against the out-dated notion that Virginia wines suck. They don’t, and these four wines are further evidence.
A few weeks ago, I tasted through four wines from different Virginia wineries and found a few seriously good bottles, which I’ve detailed below.
Blenheim

Winemaker Kristy Harmon has been making this Chardonnay since 2008, but the vineyard was planted in 1999. She said she tries to limit maloactic fermentation to keep the wine zesty, but the Chardonnay does spend about nine months in oak. For my palate, this is an exciting Virginia Chardonnay whose style aligns with my preferences. As someone who tastes a whole lot of VA Chard, this is high up there
2014 Blenheim Vineyards Chardonnay Blenheim Farm - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$22
Medium yellow color. Brisk aromatic appeal: fresh yellow and green apple, along with kiwi and lime, and the fruit is backed up by a fresh floral and seashell note. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity and a slightly creamy note, balanced nicely but definitely a bright style. Lime, kiwi, juicy yellow apple, the fruit is topped with notes of raw almond, sea shells, honeycomb and chalk. Nuanced, fresh, not woody or clunky. A surprisingly vibrant and mineral-laded finish. This begs for oysters and crab cakes. And for the money, this blows most California Chards out of the water. (89 points)
Ingleside
Ingleside dates back to the early days of the modern Virginia wine industry. This producer’s first vineyard was planted in 1978 in Virginia’s Northern Neck, a peninsula formed by the Rappahannock and Potomac Rivers. The history goes back even further though — Charles Flemer bought the estate in 1890, and today his great-great grandson runs the winery.
2014 Ingleside Plantation Cabernet Franc - Virginia, Chesapeake Bay, Northern Neck
$25
Juicy dark ruby color. Smells of tart red currants and cherries, lots of smoke, bell pepper, black pepper and rustic farm notes. Medium-bodied with silky tannins and crisp acidity. Tart red currants and cherries mix with smoke, sweet menthol, pepper, scorched earth and toasted oak. Pleasantly bright and goes down easily. All estate grown fruit, this is 75% Cab Franc with the rest an even split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (86 points)
Lost Creek
Wife-husband duo Aimee and Todd Henkle are one of those couples who realized their dream of purchasing a vineyard. In 2012, they bought Loudon County’s Lost Creek Vineyards. The prior owners had planted estate Cabernet Sauvignon in silt and loam soils in 1997. Provenance, a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend debuted in 2000. Unlike many regions, Cabernet Sauvignon in Virginia frequently takes a back seat to Cabernet Franc. The two are very frequently blended together, and Cab Sauv can help flesh out a Cab Franc and add more structure and grip. I’m always excited with winegrowers who spend the time and effort to get Cabernet Sauvignon right. “If you focus on your vineyard,” Lost Creek co-owner Aimee Henkle tweeted, “you can make a beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon in Virginia.” Provenance proves it.
2014 Lost Creek Vineyards & Winery Provenance - Virginia
$40
Deep ruby color. Aromas of sweet red and black cherries, gushing but bright fruit, and I get a lot of rose and violet notes along with some red licorice, coffee and clove. Medium+ bodied, medium tannins provide structure but the wine is smooth and the acidity keeps it fresh. Black cherries and sweet plums mix with notes of roasted chestnut, toasted oak, sweet coffee and clove. I start getting some black tea and lavender notes in here after a few hours of air. A bold, jammy presence on the finish. Rich, tasty stuff that should unwind nicely over the next few years. A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon 25% Cabernet Franc and 13% Merlot, 13.5% alcohol. 60% estate fruit, 40% from the Shenandoah Valley. (88 points)
Afton Mountain
Petit Verdot isn’t often bottled as a varietal wine, as its density and concentration lends it well to blending with other Bordeaux varieties. But in Virginia, Petit Verdot is popping up on labels across the state, and Afton Mountain’s Reserve bottling is a very impressive one. Owner Elizabeth Smith explained that the grapes for this effort come from loamy clay soil on an exposed south slope about 950 feet in elevation. She said the 2012 vintage is likely their lightest and brightest version of this generally dark and deep grape. But I found this wine to be fascinating, balanced, complex and straight-up delicious.
2012 Afton Mountain Vineyards Petit Verdot Estate Reserve - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$38
Deep ruby/light purple color. Vibrant but suave aromas of black cherry, tart blueberry and black currant – along with waves of pepper, baking spices and rich earth. Medium-bodied with structured but fine tannins and a some tangy acidity. The mouthfeel is very pretty and the wine, while spreading out over the palate, feels clean and vibrant. Black cherry and dark currant fruit shows plenty of ripeness but maintains a crisp/crunchy aspect. Notes of sweet tobacco, black pepper, soy, roasted coffee and mint add significant complexity. Finishes with an integrated oak note. Very nice now but I’d love to try this again in 3-4. I’m impressed with this wine, and while I love some more dense versions of Petit Verdot, I really like this brisk, vibrant vintage. (88 points)
A few weeks ago, I tasted through four wines from different Virginia wineries and found a few seriously good bottles, which I’ve detailed below.
Blenheim

Winemaker Kristy Harmon has been making this Chardonnay since 2008, but the vineyard was planted in 1999. She said she tries to limit maloactic fermentation to keep the wine zesty, but the Chardonnay does spend about nine months in oak. For my palate, this is an exciting Virginia Chardonnay whose style aligns with my preferences. As someone who tastes a whole lot of VA Chard, this is high up there
2014 Blenheim Vineyards Chardonnay Blenheim Farm - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$22
Medium yellow color. Brisk aromatic appeal: fresh yellow and green apple, along with kiwi and lime, and the fruit is backed up by a fresh floral and seashell note. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity and a slightly creamy note, balanced nicely but definitely a bright style. Lime, kiwi, juicy yellow apple, the fruit is topped with notes of raw almond, sea shells, honeycomb and chalk. Nuanced, fresh, not woody or clunky. A surprisingly vibrant and mineral-laded finish. This begs for oysters and crab cakes. And for the money, this blows most California Chards out of the water. (89 points)
Ingleside
Ingleside dates back to the early days of the modern Virginia wine industry. This producer’s first vineyard was planted in 1978 in Virginia’s Northern Neck, a peninsula formed by the Rappahannock and Potomac Rivers. The history goes back even further though — Charles Flemer bought the estate in 1890, and today his great-great grandson runs the winery.
2014 Ingleside Plantation Cabernet Franc - Virginia, Chesapeake Bay, Northern Neck
$25
Juicy dark ruby color. Smells of tart red currants and cherries, lots of smoke, bell pepper, black pepper and rustic farm notes. Medium-bodied with silky tannins and crisp acidity. Tart red currants and cherries mix with smoke, sweet menthol, pepper, scorched earth and toasted oak. Pleasantly bright and goes down easily. All estate grown fruit, this is 75% Cab Franc with the rest an even split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (86 points)
Lost Creek
Wife-husband duo Aimee and Todd Henkle are one of those couples who realized their dream of purchasing a vineyard. In 2012, they bought Loudon County’s Lost Creek Vineyards. The prior owners had planted estate Cabernet Sauvignon in silt and loam soils in 1997. Provenance, a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend debuted in 2000. Unlike many regions, Cabernet Sauvignon in Virginia frequently takes a back seat to Cabernet Franc. The two are very frequently blended together, and Cab Sauv can help flesh out a Cab Franc and add more structure and grip. I’m always excited with winegrowers who spend the time and effort to get Cabernet Sauvignon right. “If you focus on your vineyard,” Lost Creek co-owner Aimee Henkle tweeted, “you can make a beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon in Virginia.” Provenance proves it.
2014 Lost Creek Vineyards & Winery Provenance - Virginia
$40
Deep ruby color. Aromas of sweet red and black cherries, gushing but bright fruit, and I get a lot of rose and violet notes along with some red licorice, coffee and clove. Medium+ bodied, medium tannins provide structure but the wine is smooth and the acidity keeps it fresh. Black cherries and sweet plums mix with notes of roasted chestnut, toasted oak, sweet coffee and clove. I start getting some black tea and lavender notes in here after a few hours of air. A bold, jammy presence on the finish. Rich, tasty stuff that should unwind nicely over the next few years. A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon 25% Cabernet Franc and 13% Merlot, 13.5% alcohol. 60% estate fruit, 40% from the Shenandoah Valley. (88 points)
Afton Mountain
Petit Verdot isn’t often bottled as a varietal wine, as its density and concentration lends it well to blending with other Bordeaux varieties. But in Virginia, Petit Verdot is popping up on labels across the state, and Afton Mountain’s Reserve bottling is a very impressive one. Owner Elizabeth Smith explained that the grapes for this effort come from loamy clay soil on an exposed south slope about 950 feet in elevation. She said the 2012 vintage is likely their lightest and brightest version of this generally dark and deep grape. But I found this wine to be fascinating, balanced, complex and straight-up delicious.
2012 Afton Mountain Vineyards Petit Verdot Estate Reserve - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$38
Deep ruby/light purple color. Vibrant but suave aromas of black cherry, tart blueberry and black currant – along with waves of pepper, baking spices and rich earth. Medium-bodied with structured but fine tannins and a some tangy acidity. The mouthfeel is very pretty and the wine, while spreading out over the palate, feels clean and vibrant. Black cherry and dark currant fruit shows plenty of ripeness but maintains a crisp/crunchy aspect. Notes of sweet tobacco, black pepper, soy, roasted coffee and mint add significant complexity. Finishes with an integrated oak note. Very nice now but I’d love to try this again in 3-4. I’m impressed with this wine, and while I love some more dense versions of Petit Verdot, I really like this brisk, vibrant vintage. (88 points)
Monday, October 24, 2016
Some Stunning Merlot From California
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| Good lord this is some good Merlot! |
It's been a while since I've sat down with a handful of Merlots for a single-blind tasting. These selections make for a great re-entry. Some of these wines are quite expensive, full-bodied, oaky and packed with fruit, but I can't deny the beauty of poise of the wines that jumped out at me.
Apparently October is "Merlot Month" — one of those ubiquitous months marketers ascribe to a certain grape variety, region, etc. But it means I've been receiving some really solid Merlot samples, so I'm fine with it.
Go Merlot!
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind (except for the Goldschmidt, which was received late and tasted sighted).
2013 Pahlmeyer Merlot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Deep purple color. Gobs of complex fruit on the nose: black cherries, saucy currants and blackberry jam, backed up by cedar, menthol, mint, vanilla and magic marker. Extracted and deep with velvety but structured tannins and medium-low acidity. Deep black cherries, blackberries and blueberry pie along with black licorice, mocha, vanilla, menthol and charcoal. A hard-punching style but very, very good. Will show better after a few years in the cellar, and continue to improve for quite some time, but it’s delicious to taste in its hedonistic youth. Aged 20 months in French oak (includes 4% Cab Sauv and 1% Petit Verdot). (93 points)
2013 Rombauer Vineyards Merlot - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $35
Juicy purple color. Smells vibrant yet dark, with a mix of black cherries, plums and red and black currant, along with notes of clove, cedar, coffee, and some violets and earthy elements. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, although they provide some structure, and medium-low acidity. Black cherries, red plums, juicy currants, the fruit is mixed with cola, coffee, roasted chestnut, earth and violet notes. Smooth, velvety and delicious. Fine to drink now or hold for a few years, easy. Includes 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 17 months in 30% new French oak. (88 points)
2013 Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $54
Deep purple color. Aromas of saucy black cherries and tart red and black currants, along with violets, coffee, loamy soil and licorice. Full but juicy with a fleshy tannic approach and some moderate acid that helps keep it balanced. Black cherries, tart currants, the fruit is deep and juicy but also tart. Some mint, vanilla, smoky oak, cedar, but also some earthy and graphite notes. Shows well right out of the bottle but could unfold nicely in the near term. Includes 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, this wine is aged 15 months in 25% new French oak. (88 points)
2013 Mt. Brave Merlot - California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder
SRP: $75
Vibrant purple color. Smells dark and loamy, with black cherries, juicy currants, warm mulling spices, lots of earthy complexity. On the palate, a concentrated and voluptuous wine, good grip from the tannins, medium acidity. Flavors of dark currants and waves of black cherry — some vanilla, clove, dark roast coffee but plenty of dark earthy notes, hints of savory spice. Oak is evident but woven in well and not dominant. A bold and saucy wine, but beautiful through and through. If drinking soon, decant vociferously, but I’d love to taste this in four to six years. Includes 5% Malbec, this is aged 19 months in 85% new French oak. (92 points)
2013 La Jota Merlot - California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
SRP: $85
Deep black cherry color. Smells of juicy black cherries, black currants, mixed with violets, vanilla, a hint of tobacco — concentrated aromas that need lots of air. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and some moderate acid, it’s mouth-filling but feels precise on the palate. Tart currants mix with roasted plum and jammy black cherries – but a really interesting streak of green herbs and savory spices. Underlying complexities of minerals, crushed rocks and pencil shavings. Concentrated and young, but very, very pretty. This should be a stunner in 2020 or so. Includes a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this is aged 19 months in 80% new French oak. (93 points)
2014 Goldschmidt Vineyard Merlot Chelsea Goldschmidt - California, Sonoma County, Alexander ValleySRP: $18
Juicy ruby color. Pretty aromatics of tart red and black currants, some lighter toned strawberry notes, and some roses, eucalyptus, tobacco. Full-bodied but wrapped in velvety tannins, some moderate acidity, a big and juicy wine. Black cherries and tart blueberry fruit, bold but stays fresh, the fruit is backed by cedar, eucalyptus, tobacco, mint and notes of vanilla coffee. Ready to drink but should improve for a few years. All Merlot aged 12 months in a mix of new and used French, American and Hungarian oak. (87 points)
Saturday, October 15, 2016
Picture Series Wines Provide Great Intro to Australia's Two Hands
I’ve been interested in Two Hands wines since I was a legal purchaser of alcohol. Back then, I couldn’t afford the wines, but I was obsessed with Australia and spent too much time drooling over tasting notes and high scores from the likes of Wine Spectator.
Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to taste a whole lot of Two Hands wines, from a decade-old Ares Shiraz (their flagship bottling) to the delightful and fun Brilliant Disguise Moscato. The wines are all expertly made and delicious. I can’t think of an outlier.
This month, I’m tasting through a half-dozen Two Hands wines through Protocol's #winestudio, a Twitter-based wine education program run by Tina Morey. This was my first foray into this program, and it’s fitting that we’re focused on such a reputable producer.
Founders Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz kicked off the project in 1999 as a negociant firm, purchasing quality grapes from select sites around South Australia. Their first vintage was 2000. Since then, Two Hands has purchased its own vineyards and producers a wide array of wines. They’re a perennial competitor in the all sorts of Top Ten lists from major wine publications. Even among people who don’t generally like Australian wine, Two Hands is revered.
We started off tasting three wines from Two Hands' Picture Series along with winemaker Ben Perkins. "For many, the Picture Series is the introduction to Two Hands, so our first mission is to over deliver on quality," Two Hands says on its website. "The winemaking technique and effort that goes into making a Gnarly Dudes or Angels’ Share is no different to the higher tiers of the portfolio, so these are still serious wines, with a focus on purity of fruit and sensory pleasure."
The wines feature playful names and stylish vintage photograph labels. And, considering the popularity of this producer, these wines come with relatively accessible price points.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon Sexy Beast - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $36
Lively red currant color. Dark and saucy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, black currant, along with spiced tea, clove, menthol, vanilla bean and cedar. Full-bodied with fleshy tannins, this is such a velvety/rich mouthfeel but it goes down quite easily in spite of that. Juicy black cherry, black currant fruit mix with a hint of tart blueberry. Deep earthiness in this wine, like charcoal pit, tree bark, loamy soil, pine sap — the whole deal (but in a really tasty way). Lots of clove, coffee and dark chocolate notes as well. Lots of complexity in here but the deliciousness factor of the fruit is way up there. Tasty now, but this should get more luscious over the next three to four years. Aged in 15% new French oak. (89 points)
2014 Two Hands Shiraz Angels Share - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smoky, earthy, savory notes on the nose (pepper, barbecue sauce, scorched earth) on top of gobs of black cherry and blackberry fruit, add in some sweet cola and vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but velvety tannins – some medium acidity helps. Black cherry, blueberry, blackberry jam, the fruit is rich and loaded but not baked. Lots of pepper, soy, scorched earth notes to bounce off the dark roast coffee, roasted chestnut, cinnamon sticks and clove notes. Rich and generous but complex and very interesting. Curious to see how this ages of four or five years. Aged in 6% new French oak and the rest old French and American oak. (90 points)
2014 Two Hands Shiraz Gnarly Dudes - Australia, South Australia, Barossa Valley
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smells dark and juicy with blackberries, plums and roasted figs along with smoky bacon, beef brisket and pepper. Medium-plus-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with rounded edges on the tannins and some freshness from the acidity. Plums, blackberries and blueberries, the fruit is ripe but stays tart. Notes of smoke, graphite, earth, clove and sweet coffee add complexity. Pretty, bold but vibrant as well, a bit more freshness than the Angel's Share Shiraz. Aged 12 months in 15% new French oak. (90 points)
Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to taste a whole lot of Two Hands wines, from a decade-old Ares Shiraz (their flagship bottling) to the delightful and fun Brilliant Disguise Moscato. The wines are all expertly made and delicious. I can’t think of an outlier.
This month, I’m tasting through a half-dozen Two Hands wines through Protocol's #winestudio, a Twitter-based wine education program run by Tina Morey. This was my first foray into this program, and it’s fitting that we’re focused on such a reputable producer.
Founders Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz kicked off the project in 1999 as a negociant firm, purchasing quality grapes from select sites around South Australia. Their first vintage was 2000. Since then, Two Hands has purchased its own vineyards and producers a wide array of wines. They’re a perennial competitor in the all sorts of Top Ten lists from major wine publications. Even among people who don’t generally like Australian wine, Two Hands is revered.
We started off tasting three wines from Two Hands' Picture Series along with winemaker Ben Perkins. "For many, the Picture Series is the introduction to Two Hands, so our first mission is to over deliver on quality," Two Hands says on its website. "The winemaking technique and effort that goes into making a Gnarly Dudes or Angels’ Share is no different to the higher tiers of the portfolio, so these are still serious wines, with a focus on purity of fruit and sensory pleasure."
The wines feature playful names and stylish vintage photograph labels. And, considering the popularity of this producer, these wines come with relatively accessible price points.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2015 Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon Sexy Beast - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $36
Lively red currant color. Dark and saucy aromas of black cherry, blueberry, black currant, along with spiced tea, clove, menthol, vanilla bean and cedar. Full-bodied with fleshy tannins, this is such a velvety/rich mouthfeel but it goes down quite easily in spite of that. Juicy black cherry, black currant fruit mix with a hint of tart blueberry. Deep earthiness in this wine, like charcoal pit, tree bark, loamy soil, pine sap — the whole deal (but in a really tasty way). Lots of clove, coffee and dark chocolate notes as well. Lots of complexity in here but the deliciousness factor of the fruit is way up there. Tasty now, but this should get more luscious over the next three to four years. Aged in 15% new French oak. (89 points)
2014 Two Hands Shiraz Angels Share - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smoky, earthy, savory notes on the nose (pepper, barbecue sauce, scorched earth) on top of gobs of black cherry and blackberry fruit, add in some sweet cola and vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but velvety tannins – some medium acidity helps. Black cherry, blueberry, blackberry jam, the fruit is rich and loaded but not baked. Lots of pepper, soy, scorched earth notes to bounce off the dark roast coffee, roasted chestnut, cinnamon sticks and clove notes. Rich and generous but complex and very interesting. Curious to see how this ages of four or five years. Aged in 6% new French oak and the rest old French and American oak. (90 points)
2014 Two Hands Shiraz Gnarly Dudes - Australia, South Australia, Barossa Valley
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. Smells dark and juicy with blackberries, plums and roasted figs along with smoky bacon, beef brisket and pepper. Medium-plus-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with rounded edges on the tannins and some freshness from the acidity. Plums, blackberries and blueberries, the fruit is ripe but stays tart. Notes of smoke, graphite, earth, clove and sweet coffee add complexity. Pretty, bold but vibrant as well, a bit more freshness than the Angel's Share Shiraz. Aged 12 months in 15% new French oak. (90 points)
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