Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, blends, this report
features a bunch of California white wines from all over the state. The
Dragonette Cellars Duvarita Vineyard 2014 was shockingly good, while Sonoma
Chardonnay purveyor La Pitchoune continues to impress me with their 2013s. Toss
in some newly-released Sauvignon Blancs and a few blends, and you've got a nice
selection of late summer sippers.
These wines were received as trade samples and
tasted single blind.
2014 Dragonette Cellars Chardonnay
Duvarita Vineyard - California,
Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $60
Medium gold color. Aromas of lemon curd, oranges,
caramel apple, along with a kick of minerals, chalk and shells — this is quite
exciting to sniff. Medium-full-bodied, I love the mouthfeel: plump and creamy
yet balanced by vibrant acidity. Lemon meringue meets baked apple and peach
tart. I love the complexity of honey, bread crumbs, graham cracker, a lively
mineral kick. Rich but elegant and harmonious, this scores high in the
deliciousness ranking. This wine comes out slugging, but it’s precision is so
impressive. Wow, folks. Aged 12 months in 12% new French oak. From a clearly
fascinating site in sandy soils west of the Sta. Rita Hills appellation. (92
points)
2014 Frank Family Vineyards
Chardonnay
- California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $35
Light gold color. A juicy, more tropical appeal on
the nose, like papaya and pineapple mixed in with bruised apple and
honeybutter. Lovely creamy texture on the palate, some medium acidity keeps it
moving forward, but this is a velvety almost oily mouthfeel. Bruised apple,
apricot jam, orange marmalade, those flavors are topped in almond, candle wax,
clover honey and cinnamon sticks. Despite these rich flavors, the wine
maintains vivacity and brightness, especially on the finish, where a kick of
acidity and minerals leaves the palate wanting more. (89 points)
2014 Shafer Chardonnay Red Shoulder
Ranch
- California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $52
Medium gold color. Gorgeous nose of yellow flowers,
apple slices, orange peel, dried apricot, honey and some mountain stream rocks.
Chunky texture on the palate, almost chewy (14.9% alcohol) but the acidity
helps balance it out. Straight-up delicious, too: yellow apple, peaches,
oranges and pineapples, topped in chopped nuts, honeycomb and almond skin. A
nice kick of rocks and minerals bounces off the oak-influenced elements. Almost
dense at this point but it opens up a lot, and will surely continue to do so in
the cellar. No maloactic fermentation, this is aged 14 months in 3/4 new French
oak. The grapes come from a single vineyard in Carneros. (91 points)
2015 Matanzas Creek Winery Chardonnay
Sonoma County
- California, Sonoma County
SRP: $26
Medium gold color. Smells of juicy pears, yellow
apple and apricot jam with some nutty and butterscotch elements as well. Plump
texture on the palate, this is a richly creamy wine but some slight acidity
keeps it from feeling too heavy. Juicy apricot and bruised apple fruit mixes
with nougat, peanut shell and butterscotch elements. Not too toasty or rich,
but plenty of those big, delicious Chardonnay elements in this wine. Fermented
in about 40% new French oak with full maloactic fermentation. (86 points)
2014 J Vineyards & Winery
Chardonnay Estate - California,
Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $28
Light gold color. Bright floral notes mix with all
colors of apples, and some aromas of hazelnut and almond. Juicy and round on
the palate but cool acidity keeps it lively. Plump pears, baked apples and
apricots mix with honeyed tea, cinnamon spice and caramel popcorn. Rich in
texture and flavor but this is refreshing as well as delicious.
Barrel-fermented and aged nine months in 25% new French oak. (87 points)
2014 Frei Brothers Chardonnay Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Gold color. Smells of bruised apples, toasted
almond, honey — you get the idea of the style. Plump and creamy on the palate,
some light acidity helps. This wine is full of apricot, yellow apples, topped
with nougat, cinnamon, hazelnut and butterscotch. A typical style, but it
tastes good. (85 points)
2013 La Pitchoune Chardonnay Pratt
Vineyard
- California, Sonoma County, Russian River
Valley
SRP: $68
Light gold color. Smells like golden apples, juicy
pears, mixed with honeysuckle, cinnamon, almond and crushed chalk. Full and
creamy, a rich and lush feel, but the acidity keeps it firing. Plump yellow
fruit (plum, appple, pear) and loaded with non-fruit complexity: honey, almond,
nutmeg and clove. But these flavors are matched with chalk, wildflowers and sea
spray. A delicious big boy of a Chardonnay, but it's paradoxically surgical. I’d
love to re-taste in a few years. Aged 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. (91
points)
2013 La Pitchoune Chardonnay
Chenoweth Vineyard - California,
Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $88
Pretty golden color. I love the salty, nettle and
white floral components to the nose, which liven up the rich apple and yellow
plum fruit. Full-bodied, but this wine hides its weight well via the crisp
acidity. Juicy yellow apple and plum, apricot and orange, mix in some
honeycomb, croissant, salted butter. There’s a vibrant sense of sea shell and
minerality in this wine, and the finish is long, creamy but crisp. Beautiful
stuff — this is what my palate craves in Sonoma Chardonnay. I’d love to retaste
in two or three years. Aged 16 months in 50% new French oak. (92 points)
2014 Gundlach Bundschu Chardonnay
Estate Vineyard - California,
Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $27
Light gold color. Very floral and bright on the nose
with peaches and lychee, backed up by notes of cucumber and rosewater. Creamy
texture, vibrant acidity, the fruit is very tropical (guava, pineapple, passion
fruit), backed up by sweet honey, brown sugar and nougat. Sweet floral perfume
pervades the finish. No maloactic fermentation, this spends 10 months in 20%
new French oak. (87 points)
2013 Agnitio Wines Chardonnay Sun
Chase Vineyard
- California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $50
Light gold color. Smells of yellow apples and
apricots covered in nougat, honey, lilies and clean laundry. Plump and creamy
texture on the palate, acidity keeps it moderately fresh. Apricots and spiced
apple sauce flavors mix with honey, chopped almonds and white tea. A rich style
but it's not heavy, and I get this lively mineral presence in the wine that
keeps it interesting. This wine sees 1/4 maloactic fermentation and time in 25%
new French oak. (88 points)
2015 Matanzas Creek Winery Sauvignon
Blanc
- California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Medium yellow color. Rich aromatics of guava,
pineapple and limes, topped with lemongrass and sliced jalapenos.
Medium-bodied, creamy, slightly waxy texture on the palate with medium acidity.
Chunky pineapple and mango fruit blends nicely with citrus zest, grapefruit,
salted lime and an integrated mix of lemon grass, white pepper and chalk. Solid
stuff for the price. Includes 7% Semillon. (87 points)
2014 Murrieta's Well The Whip - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley
SRP: $24
Pale lemon color. Smells insanely floral and soapy,
like perfume, honeysuckle and laundry powder on top of oranges and lychee.
Medium-bodied with a slightly waxy mouthfeel and some moderate acidity. The
oranges, white peaches and pineapple fruit is juicy and topped with candle wax,
floral perfume, laundry soap and sugar cane and orange blossom. Really
interesting flavors, here, but if you dislike floral notes or avoid this wine.
A kitchen sink blend of Semillon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Orange Muscat, Muscat
Canelli and Viognier. (85 points)
2015 Tom Gore Vineyards Sauvignon
Blanc
- California
SRP: $13
Medium straw color. Nose of grapefruit and lime
topped with white and green peppers, some honeysuckle as well. Medium-bodied
with medium but refreshing acidity. The grapefruit and tangerines are ripe but
tangy and blended in with elements of pepper, lemongrass and honeysuckle. Not
too complex but very pleasant and refreshing. (85 points)
2014 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry
Sauvignon Blanc - California,
Napa Valley
SRP: $31
Medium straw color. Aromas of juicy white peach,
green apple mixed with elements of almond and green beans, honeysuckle and
crushed chalk. Medium-plus-bodied with a creamy texture but bright acidity
keeps it crisp and clean. Honeysuckle, lemongrass, chalk and minerals accent
the green apple, sliced peaches and honeydew melon. Juicy fruit is mixed with
quite complex elements of almond, honey, white tea, chalk and minerals. Tasty
but racy stuff — another solid vintage of this wine. About 80% of this comes
from the Musque clone, which accentuates these fresh floral elements. Aged six
months in old French oak, which rounds out the wine but doesn’t impart oaky
flavors. Nicely done, per usual. (88 points)
2015 Chronic Cellars Eunice X Chronic
Cellars
- California, Central Coast
SRP: $15
Light yellow color.
Honey, almonds and yellow flower aromas on top of apricot and yellow apple. On
the palate, this shows a creamy, waxy texture but some solid acid keeps it
quite balanced. Apricots, yellow plums, bruised apple, the fruit is backed up
with some floral, white tea and honeycomb elements. Straight-up fun, but some
nice balance and diversity of flavors. A blend of75% Chardonnay, 14% Viognier,
8% Roussanne and 3% Marsanne. (86 points)
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