Things have changed a bit since then, as more small importers are focusing on bringing high-quality South African wines to the U.S., many of which boast very attractive price points. One such group, New Jersey-based Vine Street Imports, sent me some wines from two South African producers that seem primed for the U.S. market.
Jurgen Gouws kicked off Intellego Wines in 2009. Although he doesn’t own any vineyards, or a cellar of his own, his passion for vibrant, nuanced wines is evident in the glass. He works with growers in Swartland to source fruit, and has a special love for the region’s older bush vines.
Francois Haasbroek is the man behind Blackwater Wine, which became his full-time focus in 2012. After studying at Stellenbosch University, and working stints in California and New Zealand, he was hired as winemaker at Stellenbosch’s Waterford Wine Estate, where he worked for nine years. Now with his own project, Francois sources grapes from all over South Africa’s Western Cape and focuses on natural acidity and steer away from density and new oak.
Both producers seem (to me), to be the kind of wines I want to see more of in the U.S., so I was excited to receive these samples, which I tasted sighted. My notes are below.
2016 Blackwater Sauvignon Blanc High Roller - South Africa, Coastal Region, Darling
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Bursting aromatics of apricots, limes, nettle, chalk, cut flower stems. Fresh and fun on the palate, a crisp, salty, oyster-friendly appeal but shows a lot of spicy complexity. Apricots, limes, orange pith, mixed with baby’s breath, honeysuckle and some sea salt. Don’t let the cutesy label fool you, this is very pretty South African Sauv. Blanc. (88 points)
2016 Intellego Chenin Blanc - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. Whoa! Aromas pop: apricots, yellow apples, limes, lots of saline, honeycomb, white tea. So vibrant on the palate with rich textural depth combining well with a crisp, salty appeal. Flavors of yellow plums, apricots, drizzled with lime. The complexity is impressive, with notes of honeyed tea, sea salt, crushed shells and wild flowers. This is fascinating, deep, delicious, a great reminder of how good South African Chenin Blanc can be for the money. The grapes are sourced from 30- to 40-year-old vines. (91 points)
2018 Blackwater Lazy Lucy Rosé - South Africa, Coastal Region, Paarl
SRP: $15
Light watermelon color. On the nose I get bright strawberries, white cherries, crushed sweet tart candies, white pepper – cool combo! Light and brisk style, lean and crunchy feel to it but plenty of flavor (white cherries, watermelon, honeydew). Notes of white pepper and clove. Fresh and tasty but some solid complexity for this price, I could see this getting a lot of love from a thirsty crowd. 56% Cinsault, 44% Syrah. (88 points)
2016 Intellego Kedungu - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
SRP: $26
Light purple color. OK, so this wine is a wee bit different, for sure! Aromatically, I get wild strawberries, smoked meat, and a funky, spicy, sour mix that reminds me of a sour framboise. Tart on the palate with light tannins, this is super tangy and tart wine (only 11% alcohol) with raspberries and sour cherries. A complex mix if interesting non-fruit elements (black pepper, roasted lamb, leather). Weird but it’s also tasty. If you’re in a funky, adventurous mood, try out this blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre. (87 points)
2017 Blackwater Grenache Daniel - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
SRP: $29
Bright ruby color. Aromas of juicy black cherries and loads of non-fruit spicy, herbal, beefy notes (roses, black pepper, soy, leather, tobacco, anise and beef drippings. Fresh and vibrant on the palate with surprising acidity, some light-dusty tannins, and black cherries and raspberry fruit. Tossed together with black pepper, soy sauce, bacon fat and some rose potpourri. Spicy but not too crazy, it stays fresh and lively as well. Delish. All Grenache from a single vineyard in Botrivier, 40% whole cluster fermentation, aged six months in old French oak. (90 points)
2015 Blackwater Wine Syrah Noir - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
SRP: $25
Deep ruby/light purple color. Aromas of black cherries, red and black currants, lots of leather, black pepper, barbecue smoke, beef broth. Medium+ bodied with moderate acidity that helps keep the wine fresh, medium tannins. Spicy black cherries, currants and plums, scorched earth, beef broth, leather, clove. Complex but lots of fun, with a fresh, spicy, barbecue-friendly appeal. Includes a bit of Grenache and Carignan, aged 27 months in old French oak. (90 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
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