Enjoying the Wilderness and White Wines of Virginia

Remote Shenandoah beauty.

Virginia is on my mind this week. I had a great solo winter hike and scramble in Shenandoah National Park, and I recently tasted through some beautiful Virginia wines.

Long-time readers have heard me rave about Virginia wines for many years, and it’s been interesting to see how the perception of Virginia wine has improved, in other wine media and the public at large. The landscape has shifted so much, and there’s way more out there than some zippy Cab Francs and rich Viogniers.

The Virginia Governor’s Cup Awards each year have been an exciting way to promote the state’s wines, and next month we’ll know the 12 winners of 2022. I think we could likely see some of the producers featured in this report on that list. I love some Bordeaux blends, Cab Francs, and have a soft spot for VA Petit Verdot, but this report is all white wines (and a sparkler). The diversity of styles and flavors in just this small gathering of wines really speaks to Virginia’s strengths.

And, hey, if you’re looking to explore wines from the commonwealth, Valentine’s Day coming up. Virginia is for (wine)lovers. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Williamsburg Winery Chardonnay Stainless Steel Fermented – USA, Virginia
$20
Light yellow color. The nose shows lemons and white peach along with white flowers, celery seed and lemon verbena. The palate is light and zesty, bright and crisp, with lemons and kiwi fruit. I like the affirming tones of mint, white pepper and sage that add complexity to this brisk style. A tough year, but this wine offers a lot of fun and a nice take on this style. (87 points)

2019 Williamsburg Winery Chardonnay Limited Release Monticello – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$32
Medium yellow color. The nose is lovely, with honey, white tea and cinnamon crumb cake, over top of yellow pears and lemon curds, yellow flowers. The palate shows crisp acidity and a creamy texture, with yellow apples and lemons. Nuances of gingerbread, honey, graham cracker, balanced out by notes of sea salt, white tea and minerals. Nice depth of texture, but solid balance. (88 points)

2017 Linden Chardonnay Village – USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia
$32
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon crème, yellow apples, with chalk dust, sea salt, with some floral perfume. The palate shows nice depth but vibrant acidity, and the balance is really nice. Lemons, kiwi and yellow apples mix with honey, almond shell and white flowers. Bright, juicy, salty, pure and vibrant. Classic Virginia Chardonnay. Mostly declassified Hardscrabble grapes, no maloactic fermentation, aged 10 months on the lees in old French oak barrels. (90 points)

2018 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$35
Rich orange color. The nose is just gorgeous, with apricots and orange marmalade, topped in honey, graham cracker crumbs and zesty, salty vibes. The palate is beautifully textured and creamy, backed up with racy acidity, and that nervy, live-wire balance is something that this wine excels at. Lemon drops and orange marmalade fruit blend well with minerals, chalk dust, tones of honey comb and candles. Unique, beautiful stuff that will age wonderfully. (91 points)

2018 King Family Vineyards Viognier Small Batch Series – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$35
Medium orange color. The nose has a lot on offer, with lemons and yellow apples mixing in with green olives, brine, clover and honey. Creamy texture on the palate, this also sports briny acidity, it’s rich and tropical but focused throughout. Lemons and orange peel, juicy yellow apples, the fruit is laced with flowers and green olives. Beautiful, fresh, has a natty but pristine vibe and a creamy yet lip-smacking finish. This skin-fermented Viognier is equally interesting and delicious. (91 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Rkatsiteli Wildkat – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$29
Deep orange color. The aromas boast elements of lemon, papaya, along with ginger anf precise notes of flowers and talc. Medium-bodied with a salty, racy, briny appeal. Clean and precise with lemon and quince, racy yet deep with complexities of sea salt, white pepper and oregano. White tea, waxy, creamy elements as well. Super fun and nerdy but also straightforward in its deliciousness. Georgian style skin-fermented Rkatsiteli from Virginia – I’m stoked this wine exists. (90 points)

Sparkling and dessert wines

2018 Linden Petit Manseng Demi-Sec – USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia
$26
Medium gold color. Aromas of apricots and golden apples, topped in candle wax, honey, candied pecans and daisies. Gorgeous acidity on the palate, keeps it pristine and fresh against the creamy texture and rich, sweet fruit (orange, pineapple, apricots, glazed apples). Zesty, chalky tones are framed well against notes of honey and pineapple cake. Gorgeous depth but stays focused. Petit Manseng really is one of the best grapes for this style of wine, and Linden is a great producer, which adds up to one heck of an exceptional demi-sec wine. 20 g/l residual sugar. (92 points)

2015 Barboursville Vineyards Paxxito – USA, Virginia
$60
Deep orange color. The nose is so pretty, with orange marmalade, pineapple upside cake, with white and yellow flowers, almond, cinnamon, notes of dried nuts – just goes on and on. Gorgeous creaminess with honeyed, unctuous mouthfeel and the lively acidity is just perfect. The pineapple and mango fruit is laced with notes of nougat, gingerbread, honeyed white tea, some flinty/mineral elements underneath as well. This won the Governor’s Cup in 2021, and for good reason. Muscat Ottonel and Vidal Blanc grapes dried via the Passito method. Just an exquisite dessert wine that could fool a lot of people in a blind tasting, and likely win over new fans. Will age wonderfully for who knows how long. (92 points)

N.V. Valley Road Vineyards Joie – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$40
Bright watermelon color. Smells like red apple peels, sweet tarts, crunchy white cherries, rose petals and chalk dust. Crisp on the palate with light bubbles and flavors of sweet red apples, raspberries, light and crunchy vibes. Notes of nettle, chalk, sweet tarts and talc. Fun, bright carbonized pink. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.