Spreading holiday cheer with Port, Prosecco, and Napa wine

The holiday travel, juggling work and time off, family gatherings – it’s all in full swing and it can all be a lot. But I have a host a wine selections this week that would make either/or: 1) a great last-minute gift; 2) wonderful choice for ringing in the New Year; 3) fun and delicious wine to have around this winter.

I’m a big fan of Port, and the diversity of styles allows for palates of all type to explore and find something to enjoy. And during cold winter nights a glass of Port is an enriching experience. Graham’s is a Port lodge with a long and respected history, and like other large houses, they put out a wide range of styles. If you’re not sure which one you like, or you just want to experience different styles, Graham’s has a great little idea. It’s a three-pack of 200ml bottles that includes their Six Grapes (a ruby style), the 10-Year Tawny, and the 20-Year Tawny Port. This sampler pack is available for $55 and a worthy purchase for yourself or as a gift.

Bubbles are always on tap at my holiday gatherings (Champagne mostly). But I am no longer a Prosecco hater. The growth demand for these Italian bubbles in the U.S. in the past means higher quality wines are easier to find (at least that’s my experience). The supermarket brands are everywhere, but I’ve found a gem of a bargain. It’s a lot better than some more expensive peers, and would be a great holiday treat.

And to top things off, I had to include some killer Napa reds. Each year for at least the last decade, I’ve opened a Napa Cab during a delicious home-cooked meal with family – always during that glorious period between December 24 and January 1. Napa is king for a reason, and I want to share two new-to-me wines that wowed me recently, a Cab and a Syrah. They’re from Hoopes Vineyard, based in Oakville. Owner Lindsay Hoopes grew up on a farm and among the vines of Oakville, and the winery includes a regenerative farm and animal sanctuary. And the wines? They rock. I’m glad I found out about this producer, and the end of the year seems like a great time to share them.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Graham Porto Six Grapes Reserve - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Ripe purple color. The nose exudes roasted figs and plum cake tossed together with violets, coffee, toffee, milk and dark chocolate bars. On the palate, I get a smooth, slightly chewy mouthfeel with moderating acidity. Ripe but nuanced flavors of chocolate-covered raisins, fig paste, sweet plum sauce, even some candied orange peel. Notes of sweet coffee, toffee, and violets add a nice kick, and there’s even some nuanced earth tones. That undeniably fun, juicy, ripe, and pleasant ruby style. (88 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 10 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
A rich tawny color with classic, deep aromas of roasted figs, golden raisins, sweet plums, and candied orange peels, along with coffee, toffee, and scents of almond cake and roasted pecans. The palate is sweet and plush with a rich texture and medium acidity. Delicious flavors of golden raisins, fig and currant compote, prunes, accented with toasted peanuts and candied pecans, with a salted caramel and honeyed finish. Undeniably delicious, and a great intro into the tawny style at a great price. (90 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 20 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Deep tawny color. An even richer and more complex aromatic display, with roasted figs, dried orange peels, mixed with caramel, dried honey, sweet espresso, ginger snap cookies, and crumb cake. The palate is ripe and dense but stays enlivened with moderate acidity. Lovely flavors of pear butter, raspberry jam, dried apple slices, with all sorts of nuanced nutty, honeyed, salty, and crème brulee elements. Warm but invigorating, a lovely cold night sip with friends. (92 points)

N.V. Danzante Prosecco Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto / Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $8
Slight copper color. A bright and chalky nose with crushed sweet tarts over top of lemon, ruby red grapefruit, and lots of white and yellow flowers. On the palate, this Prosecco is racy and vibrant with fresh acid, fine bubbles, and flavors of ruby red grapefruit, green and yellow apples and pears. Notes of crushed sweet tarts and seashells add complexity. Fun, vibrant, balanced sugar, with a nice salty kick. Screaming value. (89 points)

2018 Hoopes Vineyard Syrah Sophie’s Block - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District

SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Dark plum and blackberries on the nose, so juicy and dark, with smoky earth, black pepper, violets, along with some potting soil and rocky earth. Richly textured on the palate, solid grip all around, but the acidity is lively and fresh. Flavors of saucy black cherries and tangy wild blueberries, and the fruit is accented with delightful notes of black olive, cracked pepper, a lot of savory spices. Earthy, tar, graphite, and mineral tones linger long on the finish. Savory, juicy, vibrant, spicy, this will improve greatly with five years in the cellar. (93 points)

2018 Hoopes Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
SRP: $125
Dark purple color. An intoxicating nose of black currants, blueberries, fig paste, with rich earth, savory spices, dried rose petals, along with graphite, cedar, and rocky soil – really needs time and air to coax out the full range. The palate sports a bold texture with grippy but fine-edged tannins and vibrant acidity that keeps the lips smacking. The fruit is a mix of zesty currant, wild blueberry, and suave black cherries, accented with complexities of graphite, cedar, coffee grounds, tobacco, and leather. Deep but fresh, this will be a long-ager, and while it’s impressive now, it will reward the patient in the cellar. (94 points)

Brengman Brothers excel with crisp, complex Michigan wines

If you’re looking to branch out from the big states of American wine (and you should be), Michigan wine is an amazing place to start. Specifically, Brengman Brothers. Especially if you’re a fan of German, Austrian, or Alsatian wines and are looking to get excited about a new-to-you American producer excelling in wines similar to those styles.

I’ve tasted through a wide range of this producer’s lineup (which is quite extensive and evolving), and have been intrigued by what I’ve found. These wines hail from Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula American Viticultural Area, which is located on northwest Lower Michigan. The state’s second AVA, approved in 1982, this region benefits from the lake effect’s moderating temperature, given the proximity to Lake Michigan, Grand Traverse Bay, and Lake Leelanau. Sandy, loamy, well-drained soils provide deep-rooted vines of many different types to thrive here.

Credit: Brengman Brothers

These estate wines are able to translate that vibrant, lean, mineral-infused vibe I look for in cooler-climate wines, but they have tons of nuanced, perfectly ripe, tropical and other fruits – the best of both worlds.

Brengman is the project of brothers Ed and Robert, who purchased their Crain Hill Vineyard in 2003. They’ve been going through growth spurts ever since. I appreciated the winery's straightforward mission statement: “The goal has always been to develop a Leelanau terroir with an old-world spirit that, through time, becomes the benchmark for the region.” I think they can pat themselves on the back for coming a long way in meeting that goal.

It’s not easy to make exciting, “real” wines at affordable prices, but Brengman makes it easier to venture out without spending too much. Specifically, the Pet-Nats around the holidays seem like a great purchase for parties or gifts. And the Riesling and Chard would be great on the holiday table or as ringers in a blind tasting with wine nerd friends. And they seem to have quite a beautiful tasting room and kitchen that I surely plan to visit if I find myself near Traverse City, Michigan.

Whatever you’re sipping and serving, happy holidays to you and yours! Thanks for stopping by and I wish you health and happiness.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Brengman Brothers Wild Card Pet Nat Rosé - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $27
Light watermelon color. The nose pops with talc and sea salt, basil, white pepper, along with crunchy red apples, strawberries, wild raspberries, and lemons. The palate is vibrant and zesty with a precise, bracing feel, and light bubbles and body. Flavors of white peach, wild raspberries, crunchy McIntosh apples. Nuances of minerals, floral perfume, sea salt, and some basil and mint. Summery fun for any time of the year! A 50/50 split of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (89 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Wild Card Pet Nat - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $27
Light yellow color with lively effervescence. So vibrant on the nose, peachy keen with notes of cantaloupe and honeydew melon rinds, floral perfume, flinty minerals, honeysuckles and daisies. The palate is a zippy and taut affair with a light body and a crunchy, lip-smacking appeal. Flavors of candied lemon peel and melon rind blend well with notes of sea salt and minerals. Airy and breezy with all sorts of cool floral and spice tones (dandelion, daisies, nettle, mint, white tea). Vibrant, crunchy, this has a lot of personality. A Pet-Nat of Riesling and Gewurz -- this is super cool, a ton of fun, but also complex and balanced. (90 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Riesling Trocken Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula

SRP: $32
Light yellow color. The aromas show brightly with crunchy green apples and green melon, drizzled in limes, with a host of other scents: honeysuckle, dandelion, some crushed shells. Really makes the mouth water, and then the palate follows through with zippy acidity and a plush texture. Focused and crisp, with flavors of lime, white peaches, green pears, and the fruit is topped in crushed sweet tarts, notes of sea shells, flinty minerals, and some floral perfume on the finish. A clear and vibrant Riesling that is delicious and would be so versatile with all sorts of food. Made with wild yeast, this is a blend of three lots of Riesling fermented in stainless steel, concrete, and French oak. (91 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Block 65 Blend Crain Hill Vineyards - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $32
Medium yellow color. The nose pops with peaches, papaya, yellow apples, along with all sorts of orange blossom, dandelion, with flinty minerals and chalk dust. The palate has this delightfully plush texture matched with spritely acidity. A fruit salad welcomes the taster with cantaloupe, white peach, nectarine, along with complex and nuanced tones of dandelion, basil, mint. Notes of stony minerals and river rocks add a refreshing zip, and there’s some honeyed floral tea to round things out. Balanced, clear, and focused, a delightful wild ferment blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, and Pinot Gris. (90 points)

2022 Brengman Brothers Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Timberlee Vineyard -­ USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $35
Medium yellow color. A cool nose of rich guava, papaya, and quince, with salted lemon, yellow flowers, and racy tones of chalk dust and bright, breezy spring fields. The palate has a great combination of juicy texture and racy acidity, and the wire-balancing act is executed so well. Lemons and quince, some ripe yellow and crunchy green apples. The fruit meets these honeyed, richer vibes with mineral precision and hints of green herbs and white flowers. Finishes with such stony, herbal, rushing river essence. Impressive expression of place and an expertly done take on this classic Sauv Blanc/Semillon blend. (92 points)

2020 Brengman Brothers Chardonnay Artist's Series - USA, Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula
SRP: $N/A
Vibrant yellow color. Ripe and juicy on the nose with yellow pears and apple butter, along with lemon curd, almond, and peanut brittle, along with scents of yellow flowers and hay. The palate is richly textured but medium bodied with moderate acidity and flavors of yellow pears and apples. The balance is really nice between the richer elements (hazelnut, lemon crème, whipped honey) with notes of minerals and sea salt. Deep but racy with harmonious flavors. Lovely Chardonnay (and Robert is an awesome winemaker and painter – his art is on the label). Aged 12 months in new French oak. (90 points)

California and Oregon wines for giving and holiday celebrations

It’s that rush before the holidays when things are crazy and time seems to fly by. There’s so much to do and plan, and wine-buying shouldn’t be an added stress. So, this week I have a group of wines from producers I think would make great gifts or bottles to open with your friends and family this holiday season.

I’m focusing on California and Oregon, from two producers I’ve known and respected for a while, to a new (to me) producer from a well-known region. In the spirit of giving and thankfulness, I’ve chosen producers I think make a solid effort toward environmental stewardship, and delicious wines.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

Halter Ranch

I have such fond memories of visiting Paso Robles. The place is beautiful, the people welcoming, and the wines – it’s just an embarrassment of riches. The diversity of grapes is impressive – whether the Bordeaux classics, or Italian varieties blended together in all shapes and sizes, to Spanish grapes that fit various nooks and crannies in the Paso terroir. Lots of little gems pop up if you go looking. There’s a real, true-blue feel to a lot of the winemakers, and it seems evident in a lot of wines. They’re not showy for the sake of it, they’re clear expressions of intent, style, and place. And whatever style you’re into, I bet you can find a cool expression somewhere in the larger Paso Robles region.

Take this new-to-me producer, Halter Ranch. I thought I had a pretty good understanding of a lot of the producers here, but I somehow missed this one. I’m glad that has been rectified. Halter Ranch tends to 200 acres of organic vineyards, walnuts, and olives. Sheep graze (and fertilize) the vineyard in classic fashion. And proprietor Hansjörg Wyss and winemaker Kevin Sass make at least 15 different expressions or blends from 20 different varieties of west-side Paso fruit. Looking at their lineup, there’s a lot piques my interest. These wines offer an enticing look at what these folks are doing.

2022 Halter Ranch Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $43
Light copper color. A beautiful nose of yellow apples, white peach, orange peels, with nuances of sea salt, crunchy limestone, white tea – deep but it has this airy, breezy complexity, too. The palate is crisp and bright on a medium-bodied frame with some lovely depth of texture. The flavors of white peach, lemon curd, and green apples play well off tones of ocean spray, floral perfume, some honey butter, and white tea complexities. I’m a big fan of Grenache Blanc for its bright yet expressive appeal, and this is a lovely take. Includes a bit of Picpoul and Viognier. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Sparkling Picpoul Blanc Libelle - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $85
Bright lemon color with fine bubbles. The aromatic pop is so bright and floral, but shows layered depth, with lots of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust, with pie crust, over kiwi and green apples. The palate shows light body but plenty of creamy depth, and vibrant acidity, framing up the lemon, papaya, and green apple fruit. I love the racy, taut vibes, the minerals and chalk dust. The complexity is really delightful, and though it maintains this brisk appeal, there are a lot of layered, deeper elements to parse through. That flinty mineral element on the finish – lovely. A great idea for the holidays or in a blind tasting – I’d enjoy hearing the guesses from wine nerd friends. Picpoul made in the Champagne method. (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $55
Medium purple color. An expressive nose of raspberries and cranberry relish, with juicy black cherries, and nuances of violets, clove, warm clay, black pepper, and cedar and coffee grounds. Full-bodied but fresh and vibrant with a silky, pleasantly plush mouthfeel. Concentrated but clear fruit (raspberries, plums, cranberry relish, tart blueberries), and the fruit is mixed well with elements of spiced black tea, coffee grounds, roasted nuts, hints of cedar. Finishes with stony minerals and earth. A super cool blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Tannat. Paso’s got the goods! (92 points)

2020 Halter Ranch Ancestor - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District

SRP: $85
Deep purple color. A rich nose of blackberry, blueberry, tangy black cherries, tossed with spicy tobacco, earthy-sage tones, black pepper, and deeper elements of anise and mocha. Deep but vibrant, serious grip on the tannins but things are ironed out and seamed together nicely. A core of tart black currant and blueberries starts things off, and the non-fruit elements shine (black pepper, all sorts of soil and rocks, mineral/graphite accents, hints of barbecue sauce). A lot to parse through, this is focused and deep young but will age wonderfully, and those savory complexities will really pop. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Petit Verdot and 20% Malbec. (94 points)

Troon Vineyard

Anyone who has read my wine writing over the past decade has likely heard about Troon, located in southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. This producer casts a wide net in terms of varieties and styles, with a serious commitment to the land. Dick Troon first planted vines out here in 1972, and their unique terroir along the Kubli Bench provides a beautiful canvas for their wide variety of bottlings. They’re regenerative organic certified, practice biodynamic farming and winemaking, along with carbon sequestration efforts. And their wines are consistently awesome, and somehow not that expensive.

I’m focusing on their Druid’s Red and White blends, which I think would be a great introduction into this producer’s approach and style. Like the seasons, the blends are different each year. They’re so food-friendly and crowd-pleasing, so they’d be a good call for holiday festivities.

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. A tropical, floral bouquet with pineapple, lemon curd, kiwi, and papaya, topped in chalk dusty, crunchy sea salt and river rocks, with honey and almond skin. The palate has a smooth texture and crisp acidity with green and yellow pears and apples, along with kiwi, mixed with orange blossom, dandelion, some sliced cucumber, and sea salt. There’s a focused mineral presence underneath as well. This is so much fun. This vintage is a blend of Vermentino, Marsanne, Lagniappe, and other grapes. (90 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25
Vibrant purple color. The aromas show a tangy compote of plums, raspberries, and tangy blueberries, along with violets, potting soil, some light roast coffee, and all sorts of herbs and spices. The palate is super zesty and bright, with tangy wild raspberries and strawberries, saucy plums, cranberry jam. I enjoy the clay and earth tones, with violets and herbal tea. So fun and juicy, crushable yet complex. A great combination. An exciting kitchen sink blend of grapes like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Tannat, Negrette, and others. (90 points)

Gamble

Maybe I’m biased because my parents are, technically speaking, mill keepers. In the rural foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, they’ve rejuvenated an historic mill property from neglect and overgrowth over the past 15 years. That’s where I planted a failed vineyard, and spent countless days fishing, working the property, bird-watching, enjoying nature and family.

I’m always a supporter in wineries that take part in various charitable or actionable work on behalf of different conservation goals. And this brand is a supporter of the National Parks Conservation Association and a partner of one Napa Valley’s Bale Grist Mill State Park. This wine is delicious, reasonably-priced, and one worth sharing or gifting.

Gamble’s higher-end Napa Cabs are real gems. I’ve been a fan of them for many years, and they’re the type of Napa Cabernet that is delicious upon first taste and keeps rolling out the nuance and complexity over the course of hours or days. If you’re gifting a Napa Cab lover (or just buying for yourself), I’d go for two – one for this season, and one to bury and forget about for five to eight years.

Non-Vintage Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California

SRP: $26
Light purple color. A warm and inviting nose of roasted figs, tangy red currants, sweet black cherries, along with scents of coffee, toffee, smoky earth, and chewing tobacco. The palate is ripe and plush but shows good depth and texture, with chewy tannins and fresh acidity. Plummy, saucy plums, juicy raspberries, and spiced cranberry relish. Notes of coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, and some cool earthy, tobacco, and sage tones. A crowd-pleasing, fun, but balanced Cab that’s a blend of vintages and Napa sites. (90 points)

2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60 

Rich purple color. Aromas of warm currant and fig compote, with tangy black cherries, vibrant and deep fruit, mixed with complex tones of peppered steak, dried violets, tobacco, and a host of rocky, mineral, smoky earth, and charcoal vibes to parse through. Suave, juicy, well-structured tannins, the palate is kept aloft by vibrant acidity, and I get flavors of black currants, roasted fig, and blackberries. The complexities of roasted red pepper, sage, grilled steak, and dried flowers offer a lot of deliciousness and intrigue. This has a long life ahead, and I really look forward to where these savory tones go, and to see this wine resolve into a beauty. Drink now with a good decant or let it sit for five or eight years. Includes 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc, and 3% Malbec aged in 40% new French oak for 20 months. (94 points)

Texas wines for turkey day

Texas wine has been growing and evolving for decades now, and, at least from my perspective, the quality across the board seems to have gotten higher and higher since I’ve been paying attention.

Reds are key here, and you’re likely to find some varietal or blended wines that include some classic Bordeaux varieties, Rhone grapes, and cool other grapes like Alicante Bouschet and Graciano.

If you’re looking to drink American this Thanksgiving weekend (and, hey, why not!), try Texas! But whites (especially Rhone grapes) can really excel here, too. Yes, some of these wines can be hard to find (depending on your market), but a lot of producers ship direct from their winery.

C.L. Butaud is a maverick winery that produces some super cool wines with a lot of flair and style. I’ve been stoked on all the wines I’ve tasted from this winery. For example, most of their wines are sold in black bottles, with black labels, and black type – which I just find hilarious and fun. I find the wines, however, to be serious, age-worthy, and impressive. Their Cease and Desist red blend would be a great wine for grilled meats, cool evenings, or to have at the card table with friends.

Credit: Texas Heritage Vineyard

I also recently attended a webinar hosted by Texas Heritage Vineyard in the Hill Country AVA and had the pleasure of tasting through three of their wines. The winery is owned by Billy Johnson, and his wife (Texas Gulf Coast native Susan Johnson) also works as co-winemaker. Houston native Tyler Buddemeyer takes the primary winemaking role. In 2015, the Johnsons planted their first vines, kicking off their dream of starting a family-run winery that honors Texas. Located in the Texas wine corridor of Fredericksburg, Texas, their production facility was finished in 2017. Today, they farm more than 12 acres of grapes like Alicante Bouschet, Malbec, Tannat, Tempranillo, and Viognier. They’re not even a decade in, and things seem to be running smoothly. I’ve tried one or two of their wines before this, but the trio included in this report is quite impressive.

If you’re getting together with family in Texas, why not pick up some local vino? And if you’ve never tried wine from the Lone Stare State, there hasn’t been a better time. I certainly hope to visit Texas Wine Country one day and dig in more myself.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Texas Heritage Viognier Wildseed Farms Vineyard - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. For a Viognier, this just strikes me as a lot lighter than I was expecting – in a good way, as Viognier can get way too heavy for me. There’s juicy yellow apples, papaya, drizzled with lime, along with a lot of white and yellow flowers, some honey and chalk dust, too. The palate is ripe but lively and fresh with a pleasantly creamy, medium-bodied appeal. The flavors of yellow pears, white peaches, and yellow plums are delicious, and backed up with tones of floral perfume, celery seed, honey, white tea, and almond skin. A lot of fun, this is a balanced and tasty Viognier. Served blind, however, I would more likely guess Sauv Blanc than Viognier. (89 points)

2020 Texas Heritage Syrah Gotneaux Creek Vineyard - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $44
Medium ruby color. The nose has a cool mix of darker fruits as expected (black cherries, blueberries) with fresh raspberries, and the fruit has a lot of nice spicy elements – black pepper, black olive, some loamy soil, smashed rocks thrown in. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh, which hits the spot, and it sports dusty-fine tannins. Flavors of crunchy blueberries mix with red cherries and raspberries, backed up with notes of coffee, roasted herbs, roasted red pepper, along with some coffee grounds and dark chocolate shavings. Delightful now but should also improve – a fun, spicy, fresh Texas Syrah. (88 points)

2019 Texas Heritage Alicante Bouschet Estate - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country
SRP: $48
Deep purple color. A dark purple color with a saucy nose of dark fruits (blackberries, blueberries, cassis) along with complex notes of pencil shavings, charcoal, tar, roasted red pepper, magic marker, all sorts of deep, spicy tones. The palate has serious grip, a medium-full body, and delightfully refreshing, which makes this concentrated wine refreshing. Flavors of blackberries, wild blueberries, and tart currant blend nicely with nuances of graphite, anise, cocoa, and coffee grounds. There’s lots of stony, dusty earth vibes and all sorts of peppery vibes on the finish. Varietally classic Alicante with a Texas twist. (90 points)

2021 C.L. Butaud Cease & Desist - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $48
Deep ruby color. A deep but vibrant aromatic display of juicy black cherries, saucy plums, along with a complex web of mesquite, spicy red pepper, cracked black pepper, beef jerky, and a lot of sage and other herbs. The palate is ripe and juicy with saucy black cherries, tart red and black currants, along with suave tannins and vibrant acidity. Things line up pretty well! The non-fruit flavors really pop here, with roasted red peppers, roasted chestnuts, black tea, and all sorts of savory herbs and spices. A ripe and sun-roasted wine but with a nuanced appeal. 73% Tempranillo, 20% Mourvèdre, 7% Grenache, aged in 60% new French oak. (90 points)

Diversity and value in South American wines

This week, I have a diverse roundup of wines from South America.

Argentina was one of the first wine regions I really explored. Mostly because, well, it was easy! The grapes were labeled by variety, fruity and accessible, and full of value. But the deeper I dug, the more I found intriguing and complex wines. I’ve been following along ever since, and I always appreciate how the reasonable prices allow a wider audience to check out the offerings.

But if you’re looking to splurge, and want to do so wisely, high-end Chilean Cabernet is a great bet. Long-aging capability, deep and juicy fruit, and a whole lot of spicy, mineral complexity – I love it. From Errazuriz, and the amazing Aconcagua Valley -- the Don Maximo is a stunner.

To spice things up, there’s a Cab Franc from Uruguay as well – which would be a ton of fun in a blind tasting.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Bodega Otronia Chardonnay Block III & VI - Argentina, Patagonia
SRP: $65
Medium yellow color. The aromas show a rich mix of pineapple, yellow apples, lemon bars, along with notes of honey, nougat, corn husk, along with some salt brine and chalk dust elements. The palate is generous but balanced and focused, with a medium-bodied feel and vibrant acidity. The palate sports lemons, key limes, yellow apples and pears, lovely fruit mixed with nougat, honey, almond bars, and white tea elements. Finishes with a clear, salty appeal. Harmonious and delicious, call me impressed! Fun fact -- this comes from the southernmost winery on the planet. (91 points)

2021 Trapiche Chardonnay Gran Medalla - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The aromas show ripe oranges, bruised yellow pears, with honey, almond butter, some chalk dust, hints of sea salt and yellow flowers. Ripe and rich on the palate with medium acidity that keeps it fresh, and flavors of candied orange peel and yellow apples and pears. The fruit is backed up by elements of butterscotch and cinnamon crumb cake, but also these chalky, sea salt, almond skin tones. The best of both Chardonnay worlds in this seriously value-driven wine. (88 points)

2021 Domaine Bousquet Pinot Noir Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Light ruby color. A bright and spicy red-fruited aromatic display of cranberry relish, raspberries, strawberries, along with elements of white pepper, rhubarb, dried rose petals, and a mix of black pepper and spice/herb blends. The palate sports zippy acidity, light and dusty tannins, with vibrant red fruits like cranberry relish, crunchy red apples, and fresh strawberries. The fruit is blended well with tones of white pepper, spiced tea, rose hips, along with sage, pickling spices, and other savory tones. Fun, balanced, a real crowd-pleaser but complex and elegant as well. A screaming value. (90 points)

2021 Terrazas de Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Aromas are spicy and saucy with sweet plums, juicy black cherries, mixed with inviting tones of coffee, dark chocolate, and black tea, with spicy-herbal vibes. The palate is smooth, warm, and juicy with soft but chewy tannins and fresh acidity. The fruit has a nice mix of jammy black cherries with tangier red fruits as well (raspberries and strawberries). The earth and herbal tones really add a nice mix to this, with elements of tobacco, black pepper, leather, roasted herbs. Fun, accessible, in a good way. (88 points)

2021 Terrazas de Los Andes Malbec Reserva - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Smells warm and inviting with raspberries, plum sauce, raisins, with roses and violets, savory tones, pepper, milk chocolate. The palate is smooth and ripe with juicy, chewy tannins and moderating acidity. The flavors of raspberries and blackberry jams blend well with tons of gravelly loam, smoky earth, spicy tones of bell pepper and sage, with leather and coffee. Really fun and crushable, but complex and balanced well, too. (88 points)

2019 Terrazas de Los Andes Grand Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $60
Dark purple color. A concentrated aromatic display of dark plums, cassis, blueberry jam, which is all mixed well with complex elements of smashed rocks, charcoal, graphite, along with mint, chewing tobacco, and coffee grounds – lots do parse through. The palate sports generous texture and lively acidity with medium grip and flavors of tangy cassis and black cherries. The wine is laced with minerals, graphite, smashed rocks, lots of earth, and tones of oregano, black pepper, black tea, violets. Will only get better with time. (91 points)

2019 Mascota Vineyards Pinot Noir Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $25
Bright ruby color. The nose pops with super fresh, crunchy red fruits (raspberries, cherries, strawberries, along with warm clay, dried roses and violet petals, some mint and tobacco notes. The palate is really fun and accessible, but balanced as well, with supple tannins and fresh acidity to support the black cherry and juicy raspberry fruit. Notes of mint, tobacco, violets, spicy herbs, and black pepper offer a lot of nuance and complexity, with gentle kisses of oak. Pure fun and delicious, but “serious” at the same time. (90 points)

2019 Mascota Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Unánime Signature - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $35
Rich purple color. Complex aromas that sport black cherries, saucy plums, tangy blueberries, backed up with tobacco, graphite, mocha, fallen leaves, and cedar for a warm, inviting appeal. The palate shows refined tannins with vibrant acidity and a smooth and balanced mouthfeel. Flavors of black currants and roasted figs abound, and I get notes of earth, sage, campfire, graphite, Autumn woods. And there’s some coffee grounds, mineral, and dark chocolate shavings on the finish. Suave, ripe, but nuanced and smooth. Great to drink now but could hold as well, and a good call for a holiday party red for the cold weather. Aged 14 months in French oak. (92 points)

2020 Bodega Experimental Cabernet Franc Viña Progreso Overground - Uruguay, Progreso
SRP: $26
Light purple color. Aromas of currant and plum jams kick things off, followed up by a mix of meaty, spicy, peppery, with roasted herbs, black tea, notes of sun-dried tomato and basil. The palate is smooth with fresh acidity and a dusty, chewy feel to the tannins. I get tones of black and red currants, with plum sauce, mixed with tones of smoked meats, black pepper, all sorts of other herbs and spices. I can’t really find another regional Cab Franc to compare this to, it’s just its own thing. (89 points)

2018 Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve - Chile, Aconcagua Valley

SRP: $105
Bright purple color. On the nose, there is a deep core of currants, black cherries, a jar of fig paste you might find at a really nice farmer’s market, along with a complex host of lavender, loamy earth, charcoal, cedar, mint – really needs some time or a good decant to get going. On the palate, this has structured but refined tannins, fresh acidity, and a juicy, tangy frame of dark fruits (black cherries, cassis, dark plums). The wine is packed with nuance and complexity, with waves of savory herbs and spices, tones of minerals, dusty earth, and loam, along with roasted red pepper, lavender, anise, leather. Delicious and complex, harmonious but will reward the patient. Cabernet Sauvignon with some Malbec, this is an absolute stunner and long-term cellar friend. (94 points)

An "orange" wine for Autumn and Halloween

Orange wine has been on the rise in terms of availability and popularity for a long time now. When I first started getting into wine about 15 years ago, it was really hard to find orange wines. I was scoping out wines from northern Italy, Georgia, and Spain to find odd but delightful skin-fermented wines. Some of them were a bit, as I like to say, “feral” for the average palate – bracing, taut, spicy, volatile, sometimes overly earthy or just wild. And while I still like some of those orange wines, the accessibility and diversity of these wines has grown with their popularity. And I think that’s a good thing.

Isn't Autumn great? Rock Creek Park, Washington, DC. October 27, 2023

Basically, an “orange” wine is generally a “white” grape that spends some duration of time in contact with the skins, a process which extracts colors and other textural elements similar to how one makes a “red” wine. Just like white wines aren’t white, orange wines aren’t orange. Like a diverse deciduous forest at this time of year, orange wines come in all sorts of fascinating colors.

I recently tasted a wine that sums up what I’m trying to say about orange wines. It’s delicious, accessible, but has a lot of interesting characteristics. And its price makes it a great place to start diving into the world of orange wines. From Kivelstadt Cellars, I have a single-vineyard, skin-fermented Pinot Grigio from a single vineyard in California’s Clarksburg appellation, beside the Sacramento River. I visited this area near Sacramento a few years ago, and was impressed by the diversity of old vines and different varieties, and I fell in love with the old school California, blue collar, farming scene, one that produces legit wines. Pinot Grigio is a great grape for skin contact, the this “gray” grape’s skin provides a lot of depth, flavor, and color to extract. This wine was macerated on the skins for 13 days, then pressed and fermented in old oak for six months.

This wine was received as a sample and tasted sighted.

2022 KivelStadt Cellars Skin-Fermented Pinot Grigio Wayward Son Pintail Ranch - USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg
$35
A deep copper/watermelon. The nose exudes a mix of watermelon rind, cantaloupe, limes, with chunky pineapples, mixed with cool tones of white flowers, sea salt, chalk dust, and some honey vibes. The palate is ripe and vibrant with flavors of white cherries, raspberries, strawberries, and orange peels. The fruit is accented with tones of rhubarb, floral perfume, celery seed, watermelon candy, honeyed tea, all sorts of cool flavors and textures to enjoy and parse through. Lots of fun, food-friendly, and a great wine to bring to a Halloween party. (90 points)

Italian wines for spooky season

Spooky season is here, and I love it. October is one of my favorite times of the year – the cool nights, changing leaves, planning out the Halloween festivities with friends and family. I spent Saturday hiking, climbing, and checking out the fall foliage in Shenandoah National Park. On Sunday, I got some pumpkins, trick-or-treater candy, and braised a pork shoulder.

To fit with the autumnal vibes, I’ve had the pleasure of tasting through some warm, savory, fall-friendly wines from Italy. The wines of Amarone really hit the spot with cooler weather, braised meats, and gatherings of family and friends, and I have a few this week that would be perfect for such occasions. These Veneto blends of Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes are some of my favorites for colder weather sipping. I recently took a deep dive into the wines of a producer that is new to me, Brigaldara. The Cesari family has owned this winery since 1928, and (from what I can tell) they make energetic, exciting expressions of their terroir. One of the things I love about this region is the variety of wines and appellations, allowing a producer to put out inexpensive, entry-level bottles for early consumption (Valpolicella DOC) all the way up to the age-worthy big boys.

With the holidays coming up soon, it’s also a great time to stock up on sparkling wines. Champagne is my go-to, but my radar is always searching for classic method sparkling wines that offer value, personality, and speak to their terroir. And in this category, Trentodoc wines excel. Made from high-elevation vineyards at the foot of the Dolomites in northern Italy, these wines provide precision, mineral intensity, crunchy fruits, and lots of pleasure for pretty much any sparkling wine drinker.

And I have a delightful Chianti from Tenuta Perano to round things out. These wines were received as samples the Brigaldara wines were tasted single blind while the others were tasted sighted.

2019 Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
$33
Light purple color. Juicy and ripe on the nose with rich black cherries and plum sauce, laced with menthol, cinnamon, gingerbread, with black tea, tobacco, and sage – deep and inviting. Smooth tannins frame the wine well, with medium acidity, and a juicy, dark stage of black cherries, plum sauce, and raspberries. The fruit blends well with tones of dark chocolate, coffee grounds, magic marker, anise, black pepper, black tea. Lovely stuff that needs some air, braised meat, and a cold night to show its best. Should age really nicely, too, but delicious young. Sangiovese and Merlot aged two years in oak. (90 points) 

2022 Brigaldara Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella
$18
Medium ruby color. Aromas pop with mulled cherries and strawberries, along with clay, black pepper, some sweet coffee, charcoal, along with roses and violets, all sorts of herbs. The palate is fresh and fun with medium-tannins and vibrant acidity. The fruit exemplifies in the form of mulled plums, spiced cranberry relish, with sour cherries. Notes of anise, black pepper, sweet coffee, graphite, some inky, stony vibes. A delightful introduction to this region and this producer, and this is a serious value. (88 points)

2021 Brigaldara Valpolicella Superiore Case Vecie - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
$34

Bright ruby color. Spicy aromatic display with tart cranberry relish, crushed raspberry, strawberry jam, mixed with smoky, earthy, peppery, saucy vibes – but it still feels fresh and lively. The palate is full and suave with fresh acidity and smooth tannins, and flavors of red currant and cherry jams, saucy strawberries. The fruit mixes with spices of pepper, tobacco, floral potpourri, paprika, savory broth, balsamic, and coffee grounds. Yet despite these deep, saucy flavors, it’s so fresh and vibrant. (89 points)

2017 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
$100
Deep ruby color. The nose is excitingly spicy with red currants, raspberries, tangy strawberries, tossed expertly with tones of leather, smoky earth, tobacco, sage, some sauteed mushrooms. The palate has a dusty structure with fresh acidity and a deep but lively appeal, with flavors of mulled cherries, saucy plums, and raspberry jam. The fruit mixes with elements of tar, earth, black pepper, and a sautee of mushrooms and bell pepper, add in some leather and clove. This should age nicely! A blend of 39% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, and 31% Rondinella. From a high elevation single vineyard, this is a special, delicious Amarone. (92 points)

2018 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Cavolo - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
$65
Juicy light purple color. I love the smoky and meaty tones on the nose, interwoven with savory broth and spicy herbal tones and earth, along with black cherries and red currant compote. The palate is deep and full, zesty acidity, grippy but fine-edged tannins, and the balance is on point. Tangy red and black cherries abound, accented by charcoal, anise, tar, earth, green herbs, black pepper, some leathery tones. A lot going on here, and this will age really well. Warm, inviting, delicious. 59% Corvina, 21% Corvinone 21%, 17% Rondinella, 3% other varieties, aged two years and small oak and an additional year in larger oak barrels. (90 points) 

2020 Brigaldara Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore
$34
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a warm, vibrant, spicy appeal, with black cherries and cranberry relish, plum sauce, with tones of tobacco, clove, cedar, fallen leaves, and dried flower petals. The palate has a rich, suave appeal with a full body and lively acidity. The saucy plums and tangy blackberry fruit is mixed with so many nuances of spice, tobacco, black pepper, menthol, dill. Really cool and nuanced with a tart, vibrant, lively but long-aging appeal. (91 points)

2013 Cantina di Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella San Floriano Riserva - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
$200
Deep ruby color. A saucy mix of spiced cranberry sauce, red and black plums and currants, along with tones of tobacco, pine resin, menthol, sage, lots of rose and violet petals and sage. Smooth, deep, vibrant and balanced on the palate with dusty-structured tannins and flavors of cranberry and raspberry jams, red and black currants, along with a complex host of savory, earthy, spicy, herbal tones. The freshness and nuance offer a lot to parse through, and this will continue to age well for a long time. (93 points)

N.V. Cesarini Sforza Trentodoc Brut Rosé Tridentum - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Trento
$26

Pretty pink color. The nose exudes chalk dust and crushed limestone, along with lemon, quince, red apple peel, along with watermelon, daisies, dandelion, and honeysuckle. The palate is ripe and juicy with a pleasantly creamy depth and brisk acidity, infused with limestone and saline, lots of minerals. Balanced well, light and zippy but plenty of depth, with flavors of yellow apples, lemon, tangerine, backed up with light toast, biscuits, honey, and almond skin. Intriguing and delicious. Chardonnay with 15% Pinot Noir, grown in vineyards up to 2,100 feet, aged 24 months on the lees. (90 points)

2018 Endrizzi Trentodoc Riserva Brut Pian Castello - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Trentodoc
$28
Light salmon color. Bright and chalky on the palate with tangy red apples, strawberries, crunchy white cherries, mixed with flinty, chalky, salty vibes, along with honeysuckle, floral perfume, slight mint. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles, this sparkler has a brisk and salty appeal with balanced sugar and flavors of yellow and red apples, raspberries. The notes of minerals, oyster shells, daisies, basil, and oregano add complexity. A focused, crunchy, brisk sparkling wine that punches about its weight. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir aged 60 months on the lees. (91 points)

Troon continues to excel with their Southern Oregon wines

I’ve been a huge fan of Oregon’s Troon for about a decade now. And they’ve been such an exciting producer to watch, sourcing a wide array of grapes from unique terroirs in Oregon’s Applegate Valley, hard-crafting wines of diverse styles. They’re not afraid to experiment by any means, but it seems their experiments are so well thought out, and they tend to work.

For as long as I’ve followed this producer, it’s impressed me how they continue to craft terroir-driven, interesting, delicious wines at such good prices. This producer has long been practicing biodynamic practices, and has seems truly dedicated to sustainable practices and promoting responsible winegrowing.

I recently tasted four of their new releases, wines that remind me why I got excited about this producer in the first place. The grapes are grown in the Kubli Bench formation of Southern Oregon, which creates an incredible mix of granitic and riverbed soils with plenty of sunshine and large diurnal temperature swings. 

They have a great blog, lots of interesting videos, and other information on their website. From my perspective, from farming to label design, they are obsessed with making attractive wines and promoting their region. And I think that’s great. Troon really works to get their message, beliefs, and, most importantly, their wines out there.

This week, I have four of their new releases. It’s spooky season, a great time for orange wine. And their Amber is a cool introduction to this style.

Troon really has their Vermentino program dialed in, as they make a skin contact, a sparkling, and a wine aged on the lees. I think they’re one of the best doing it in the U.S., to be honest. In a blind tasting of wines from Sardinia, for example, a Troon wine would be an excellent ringer.

Troon’s rosé is an absurd value, and an easy half-case buy if you’re looking for a pink you could drink all year long, and age a few. Lastly, a peppery, incense and violet-infused Syrah really delivers.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Pale lemon color. The nose is bright and salty with tropical flowers and spritely tones; the fruit is lemon and kiwi and orange peel, mixed with honey, sea salt, almond skin, and white flowers. On the palate, this is taut and energetic with a floral, bright, oceanic appeal. Notes of kumquat, lime, orange peel – the fruit blends well with elements of minerals, chalk dust, sea salt, celery seed. I get nuances of white and yellow flowers, along with notes of honey and peanut skin. Complex, vibrant, this would be amazing with oysters. A lot going on here, and Troon really has such expressive Vermentino. An absurd value, and worth seeking out. (93 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Rich, deep yellow/amber color. The nose is so vibrant and expressive with ripe peach and yellow apple, mixed with orange peel, kiwi, and plenty of floral perfume, honeysuckle, and cool tones of candle wax and mint. The palate sports a delightfully waxy texture, crisp acidity, and a salty-briny appeal, with plenty of peach fruit, orange peel, watermelon rind, pineapple – love it. Nuances abound in terms of sea salt, white pepper, sliced cucumber, yellow flowers. Delicious, and I know orange wines are generally consumed young, but this has some interesting aging potential, I think. Vermentino, Viognier, and Roussanne, made in a skin-contact style with 30% whole cluster fermentation in neutral oak. (92 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley

SRP: $25
Light peach color. So spicy, floral, and fresh on the nose, with a burst of white peach, kiwi, crunchy green apples, along with cucumber slices, white pepper, all sorts of basil and nettle nuances. The palate sports a gorgeous mouthfeel, deep texture, and racy acidity. Super fun and fresh with flavors of limes, white cherries, yellow pears, and the fruit is mixed wonderfully with notes of rose hips, basil, honeysuckle, all sorts of airy, spring meadow vibes. There’s a deep essence of limestone, river rocks, and minerals throughout. A year round rose that has a lot of depth and complexity. A blend of Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Counoise, Carignan, and Negrette. (92 points)

2021 Troon Vineyard Syrah Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Dark ruby color. Wow, the nose pops with pretty blueberries, tangy black cherries, currant compote, along with enticing amounts of black pepper, clove, violet petals, spicy red pepper, and some tilled soil. Delightful to sniff. Zippy acidity frames this wine well, while the tannins provide a dusty but wonderfully chewy feel, with flavors of plums and tangy blueberries and black cherries. There are a lot of spicy nuances in here to parse through: paprika, black pepper, spicy pepperoni, barbecue sauce, charcoal. I also get notes of violets and minerals. A lot going on here; it’s fun young but would also be interesting with a few years of age on it. (92 points)

Merry Edwards and the legacy of excellent Sonoma Pinot

My love for Sonoma and wine goes back 17 years now, which isn’t that long in the grand scheme of things. But as a Jersey Shore kid who moved all around the East Coast and Europe for many years in my early life, Sonoma was the first place I visited on the West Coast. And it blew my mind. The coast drew me in (and terrified me) as I surfed its cold, big, sharky waters, and the trails and forests were like none I had ever explored.

I was impressed with a lot of the wines I first tasted, but as I studied wine and got deeper into things, I was enthralled by the wines from Merry Edwards. There were plenty of other more cult-y wines at this time that a Cali Pinot nerd could go chasing. And I did – and enjoyed many of those rabbit holes. But, there are no other Sonoma Pinots I enjoy returning to more than Merry Edwards.

And Merry is a legend in the cannon of California winemaking, a person whose work and achievements would be almost insulting to try and summarize here. (Real know real.) What I think has been most impressive about this winery in the last decade, is how seamlessly they have transitioned and handled change, all while making wines of absurd consistency.

Merry worked closely with winemaker Heidi Von Der Mehden for years before handing over the winemaking role upon her retirement in 2020. Since then, Heidi and the team have been keeping so true to the winery’s style, aesthetic, and appeal, while embracing change and new opportunities. There is no stumbling, no awkwardness, no record among the vast catalog that fans dismiss. This winery just keeps on excelling.

The proof is in the glass with Merry Edwards’ 2021 vintage. Wow. Super fresh, deep but this airy vibe, refined tannins in the red but the depth and concentration will really keep things improving in the cellar for at least five to six years. That said, they all seem open for business, and I certainly think it would be a stellar idea to open one of these Pinots on a cooler Autumn night with some slow-cooked food and good company.

Over the years, I’ve visited three or four times now. And I’d go back a fifth, and sixth, etc. The tasting room and grounds are beautiful, the staff welcoming and so courteous, and the wines always sing.

Here’s a summary on my take of the new 2021 releases. It really is a vintage to seek out and enjoy in the years to come. These wines were received as samples. The Sauvignon Blanc was tasted sighted, while the Pinots were tasted single-blind.

2021 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light yellow color. The nose has a gorgeous mix of limes, apricot, pineapple, with a host of breezy, floral goodness – basil, honeycomb, mint sea breeze, dandelions, chalk dust, all sorts of nuances to coax out. The palate has such raciness and verve, balanced wonderfully with creamy richness, that classic signature textural depth and lip-smacking focus. Exotic, expressive fruit (kiwi, white peach, lemon, papaya, beautiful stuff) that goes on and on. There’s a bright salinity, lots of white and yellow flowers, notes of minerals and mountain stream, with hints of white pepper and basil. Another stellar vintage, this one will age for a very long time, or give it plenty of air and enjoy over a few days to let it express itself fully. Aged on the lees for four months in 18% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $60
Deep raspberry color. Beautiful nose of black cherries, deep plums, and raspberry jam – the fruit backed up with savory, floral, inviting tones: violets, warm clay, red pepper flakes, rose petals, rhubarb, with light roast coffee. The palate has lively acidity, refined tannins, nicely structured and textured, with juicy black cherries, tangy red plum fruit, and your favorite cranberry relish/jam. The fruit is laced with dried rose petals, herbal tea, black pepper, with some sun-roasted herbs and clay elements. Pure, vibrant, mineral-tinged red fruits on the finish. Great intro to their style and an exceptional wine in its own right. Aged nine months in 47% new French oak. (93 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $75
Vibrant ruby color. A ripe and lush nose of crushed black cherries, the freshest raspberries, raspberry jam, and as delicious as the fruit is, it blends so well with the non-fruit nuances: deep earth, sage, tobacco, roasted chestnut, cola, yet it maintains this airy feel. Full and suave on the palate, so juicy and fresh with gorgeous fruit (black cherries, deep strawberries, raspberries). Dusty tannins, deep texture, crisp acidity, with complexities of tobacco, green herbs, black tea, with minerals and stony earth. This is so pretty now but it’s almost a shame to enjoy because it will sing so wonderfully in five or six years. Aged nine months in 83% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Georganne - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Pretty ruby color. The aromas have this complex tapestry with these darker cherries, saucy plums and deep earth, with airier elements of roses and violets, rhubarb, pomegranate tea, and all sorts of spices and nuances. The palate is deep with structured but round-edged tannins and fresh acidity. The fruit tends towards this mix of black cherries and spiced cranberry sauce, and the fruit is matched with lots of spices, dried flowers, gravelly-loamy soil, with cola and light roast coffee elements. So good – this one is an especially long-ager for this lineup. Aged 10 months in 51% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with this rich cherry ganache, strawberry jam, watermelon, with a complex blend of rhubarb, mint, tobacco, dusty earth, and some spiced tea. On the palate, this shows bright acidity and a juicy texture with chewy tannins and a mouthwatering feel throughout. Tangy black cherries, plenty of raspberries and strawberries, cherry pie, deep but so fresh and tasted pure. This one has a really cool signature of tobacco, rose hips, white pepper, rhubarb, some roasted nuts, clay and rocky soil, with this mineral-laden finish. Another really solid ager but so expressive and clear in its youth. A gem. Aged 10 months in 50% new French oak. (95 points)

2021 MerryEdwards Pinot Noir Dach Vineyard USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. So deep and juicy on the nose, a heavenly mix of black cherries, juicy strawberries, and saucy plums, topped with all sorts of non-fruit complexities: spiced tea, dried rose petals, rhubarb, warm clay, nuanced cola and sarsaparilla tones. The palate is pure, suave, and plush, with structured tannins balanced against boisterous acidity, with delicious, tangy, deep fruit (blueberries, black cherries, wild raspberries). I get a complex host of tobacco, black pepper, cola, root beer, and tones of earth, clay, and minerals. Gorgeous stuff that will age gracefully for a decade-plus. This vineyard is a welcome addition to the band’s lineup, and one to watch, especially if your palate tends toward that Anderson Valley goodness. Aged 10 months in 54% new French oak. (94 points)

California gems to welcome Autumn

Mid-September sunrise on the Potomac

I’m a big fan of the astronomical calendar for the seasons, and I love celebrating the Autumnal Equinox. So, at least in that sense, we’re still in Summer. It’s still been quite warm here in the Mid-Atlantic, and the hurricanes keep cranking, but the humidity is dropping and the cooler mornings are starting to arrive. I hope everyone is staying safe and enjoying September so far .

There’s plenty of delightful weather on the way, and I have some fresh, California wines that will keep things cool all Autumn long. Delicious Chardonnay abounds here, including one from one of my favorites (Smith-Madrone), a stunner from Three Sticks, and some relatively new-to-me wines (Ettore and Waypoint), and throw in a classic value from Ferrari-Carano.

But there are some awesome reds in here as well, from crisp a crisp and airy Waypoint Pinot, to another winner of a Zin from Frank Family. Lastly, I have the Lithology Cab from the Alejandro Bulgheroni Estate, which is a real treat if you’re looking to bury some shockingly-good Napa Cab in the cellar and enjoy the 2019 vintage. Check this one out.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Light yellow, slight green color. The aromas pop with gooseberry, lime, kiwi, green melon, along with wild mint, fresh oregano, sliced chives, and some floral perfume and honeysuckle. The palate is ripe and peachy and generous in texture, but shows racy acidity and a focused sense of clarity. White peach, limes, guava, the fruit is laced with cool tones of herbal tea, white pepper, celery seed, sliced green bell pepper. Those elements are nuanced and woven in really well with honey and minerals, lots of flowers. Summery for sure but year-round goodness in here. A steal and a complex value at the price point. (90 points)

2022 Conundrum Wines White Table Wine - USA, California
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Smells peach-keen with daisies, dandelion, hay, orange blossom (floral city!), along with notes of honey, circus peanuts, and some herbal hints. The palate has a rich and creamy texture but surprising acidity, with flavors of yellow plums, pineapple, lime zest, peach nectar, a tropical mélange of all sorts of goodness. White and yellow flowers mix with tones of chalk, celery seed, mint. Very pleasant with a tropical, breezy vibe that will keep summer going all fall. I’ve long been a fan of this perennially-changing, fun, ripe, experimental wine, and it’s nice to know this style is still going. Screaming value, crowd-pleasing, what’s not to love? Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Viognier. (89 points)

2021 Ferrari Carano Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. Yummy aromas of yellow apples, juicy pineapple, some lemon curd, with nuances of buttered biscuits, honey, tropical blossoms, with some hay and almond skin. The palate sports a delightful creaminess and moderate acidity, with a fun feel and pleasant balance. Yellow apples, kiwi, and lemon curd fruit, a fresh and juicy appeal, with notes of almond, bruised apple, nougat, along with some salty, floral complexities. Classic stuff, crowd-pleasing for sure, but balanced and delicious. Aged in stainless steel and 30% French oak. (89 points)

2019 Ettore Winery Chardonnay Zero - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Intense aromatic display, with bruised apples, white peach, orange marmalade, and apricot, along with saline, hazelnut, and a waxy, spicy, almost Jura-esque vibe, and it smells awesome. Rich and waxy texture yet vibrant acidity keeps this alive and kicking, with flavors of apricots, lemon marmalade, dried pineapple, and orange peel. There’s a lot of cool nutty, deep, honeyed tones, but the wine stays so fresh and tingly, with complex floral, saline, chalk dust, and herbal vibes. Perhaps a bit on the adventurous side, but it pulls it off so well and is delicious as it is interesting. (92 points)

2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

SRP: $45
Rich yellow color. The lemon curd, orange peel, and yellow pear aromas are delightful, with notes of yellow and white flowers, inviting tones of biscuit dough, sea salt, crushed stones – love it. The palate is racy and spritely with a delightful texture and harmonious fruit (lemons, yellow pears, white peach). Nuances of white tea, honey, sea salt, slight nougat and graham cracker. Racy and precise, deep and age-worth, this has it all. Disclaimer, I’m a huge fan of this wine in general, but even if it was not my personal style, I don’t think you can argue that this is one helluva well-made Chardonnay. And the 2019 is singing, and will continue to do so in the cellar. Absurd value, easy buy. (95 points)

2021 Three Sticks Chardonnay One Sky - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $70
Rich yellow color. The nose shows yellow pears, lemon curd, orange peel, along with a lot of yellow flowers, honey, chalk and limestone dust, along with nuances of almond, peanut skin, white tea, shaved ginger. The palate sports a bold texture with lip-smacking acidity, and flavors of yellow apples, lemon bars, along with crunchy green apples. The palate is gorgeous, with beautiful texture and focused acidity. The complexities are really impressive: smashed rocks, chalk dust, ocean spray, limestone, nuanced of saltine cracker and hay. The mouthfeel, flavors, balance, and finish are gnarly. A shockingly awesome Chardonnay that will age for a very long time. For the price? C’mon, this is nuts. (94 points)

2020 Waypoint Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $60
Juicy, deep yellow color. The aromas show a delightful mix of rich and vibrant, with lemon curd, orange peel, with white peach, almond biscuits, cinnamon crumb cake, flinty minerals, chalk dust, white flowers. The palate shows such creamy, lovely texture, balanced with pristine acidity and a clear mineral focus. Flavors of golden apples and lemon curd, mixed with all sorts of honey, graham cracker, almonds, hay. There’s also a lot of sea salt, crushed stones, minerals, all sorts of good stuff packed in here. The nuance and lip-smacking vibrancy of this wine, and the balance with the richness, really fires. Aged 18 months in 43% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Waypoint Pinot Noir Terra de Promissio Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $60
Vibrant ruby color. So fresh and lively, with fresh raspberries, strawberries, sliced rhubarb, with notes of white pepper, clay, creosote, mint, dried rose petals, very cool! The palate is crisp and airy with a fresh appeal and nervy aesthetic despite the fine-grained tannins and solid structure. The juiciest and tangiest strawberries, red currants, and cranberry relish, mix so well with tones of oregano, mint, dried rose petals, all sorts of savory spices and nuances. Despite the depth, age-worthiness, and complexity, it maintains a cool, airy, vibrant appeal. Beautiful Sonoma Pinot. (94 points)

2021 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Rich purple color. Roasted figs, blackberry jam, tangy blueberries, with notes of smoky earth, sage, incense sticks, charcoal, anise – a lot of cool things. The palate sports exceptional balance with suave tannins, a rich feel, but a bright acidity. The fruit is tangy and deep, like farm fresh blueberry and blackberry jam, with crunchy currants, and that is woven together with threads of violet petals, black pepper, oregano, all sorts of earthy, stony, and mineral vibes. This is a perennially excellent Zinfandel, but this vintage in particular has such vibrancy and staying power. Bring on cooler nights and this wine. (93 points)

2019 Lithology Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley

SRP: $150
Such a deep but inviting purple color. The nose shows a dark core of black currant, blackberry, fig paste, and these classic Napa Cab nuances you love to sniff: dusty earth, pencil shavings, tobacco, some eucalyptus and violet tones. On the palate, you really start to grasp the depth and intricacy of this wine, with grippy but refined tannins and fresh acidity, setting an open stage for the tangy black currant and dark plum fruit. The non-fruit nuances show so much, with graphite, charcoal, and minerals on one hand, and coffee grounds, dark chocolate, sweet pipe tobacco, and clove on the other. The concentration and depth are a delight. Yes, it is very enjoyable to sip this wine this young, but this should be buried for five to ten at least. I love the 2019 vintage, and this expression is exquisite. Cab with Petit Verdot, Cab Franc, aged 22 months in French oak. (95 points)