Diving into Alto Adige's distinctive wines

Credit: IDM Florian Andergassen

Note: This is my first contribution to my friend Aaron Menenberg’s Good Vitis site.

After all my years, there are still many wine regions of Italy I wanted to explore further. Recently, I’ve been digging into the Alto Adige region from afar, and I’m happy to report the findings have been delightful.

Though one of Italy’s smaller wine-producing regions, Alto Adige is complex and full of unique sites and winemaking cultures. Here, independent growers, smaller family-run wineries, and cooperatives work with some 20 different grape varieties in vineyards that run the gamut from warm Mediterranean-influenced valleys, to steep, alpine-chilled slopes.

Like the Italian mountaineers of old who chased first ascents in the Dolomites and beyond, these wines are intense, bold, and scrappy. Vineyards are planted at elevations from 600 to 4,000 feet, and often on steep inclined slopes. A real advantage for some winegrowers is the variability in elevation available to some growers, explained Jakob Gasser of St. Michael-Eppan Winery at a recent trade webinar. Located in Appiano, in the foothills of the Dolomites, producers like him can source the right grape from the right elevation and soil to achieve their goals. The winds generated by the mountains, and the resulting diurnal temperature swings, combined with lots of Mediterranean sunshine and warmth – it all comes together in this region to create unique and diverse terroir signatures.

Of course, winemaking goes back generations. But in recent years, the region has undergone something of a transition, from a lesser-known but respected region, to one whose wines are getting more recognition and attention from a larger audience.

When I first started studying Italian wine, I dug into the appellations, maps, and stats, but I didn’t spend much time with the wines from Alto Adige. They weren’t as easy to find, and perhaps I filed this away in my wine brain as “an Italian white wine region that looks interesting but I’ll take a deeper look sometime.” Even today, it’s not often a wine from Alto Adige pops up on a table with my wine friends. But I’m hoping that changes, as I think there’s a ton of opportunity out in these hills.

Chris Struck (New York-based Alto Adige ambassador and beverage direction at ilili Restaurants) said slow and steady work has led to a broader appreciation of what makes this region special. “Whether you’re looking at bellwethers like export data or media buzz, the region is well-poised as having ‘great wines from a great place with a storied history that you may have ever heard of but are hearing about now and should try,”’ Chris told me in an email. “And no wonder, as it has gateway international varieties that people have heard of (but which have a distinct style, as expressed in Alto Adige’s terroir), as well as native varieties that offer something brand new to explore.”

Read the full article and the rest of the Good Vitis Winter Issue here.