Monday, July 1, 2024

American wines to beat the heat

I hope you’re all enjoying the Summer so far. It’s been a hot and humid mess here in the Mid-Atlantic, and I’m doing more hibernating than usual.

With more of the same on the way, I’ve been enjoying some bright and crisp wines to share with friends and family of late. And with the Fourth of July coming up, this is always a great time of year to highlight some excellent American wines that would be good all Summer long.

Perfect summer wines from Troon.
To start things off, I have some wines from Troon, a biodynamic, envelope-pushing, and just downright fun producer that makes a wide range of offerings from the Applegate Valley in the south of the state. For this piece, I have three wines that I would gleefully crack open for guests this Fourth. We’ve got a lees-aged Grenache Blanc (adding all sorts of texture to this zippy grape), a most crushable red made in a Beaujolais style, and a fascinating rosé.

From California, I have a Mediterranean-style crusher from Paso Robles, and an excellent rosé from Three Sticks that I think would impress fans of higher-end, deeper, complex pinks.

Whatever you’re opening and enjoying, I wish you and yours a very happy Summer, and a safe and pleasant Fourth of July.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Troon Vineyard Grenache Blanc Extended Lees Aging - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Bright lemon color. A fresh and inviting aromatic display of green apples, white peach, and kiwi, along with almond skin, saltine cracker, and flinty minerals. Racy and taut on the palate but this has an incredibly deep texture, with this harmony between waxy and oceanic elements. Green apple, papaya, white peach, the fruit is mixed with nuanced tones of oyster shell, white pepper, and some green herbs and savory tones that need air to come out. A nerd’s wine but one that a casual fan would likely also find delicious. This spends 17 months in neutral French oak. (93 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Ascendant Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Pale copper color. Complex and inviting on the nose, with red apple peel, white cherries, wild raspberries, topped in dandelion greens, honeysuckle, and sea breeze. The palate is punchy and juicy but racy with the acidity, making for a lip-smacking and balanced pink. Watermelon, red and white cherries, the ripe and tangy fruit blends well with nuances of mint, crushed shells, mountain stream, basil, and white pepper. A breezy, delicious rosé from Troon that should age well. 38% Cinsault, 33% Mourvèdre, 11% Grenache, 10% Counoise, 8% Carignan. (92 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Vibrant ruby color. A bright aromatic display of strawberries, cranberries, and wild raspberries, with spiced herbal tea, rose hips, and rhubarb. On the palate, this is crushable and bright with a brisk and pleasant appeal. Flavors of tart cranberry relish and red apple peel with some deeper cherry fruit, and a cool mix of spicy herbs, white pepper, rose petals, and dusty earth. Fun and fresh but can’t deny the balance and complexity. A great summer sipper that will win over a lot of fans at the barbecue, I wager. A blend of Cinsault and Grenache. (90 points)

2021 Paso Verde White Wine - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Credit: Paso Verde
SRP: $25
Light yellow color with a slight spritz. Fresh and bright on the nose, with limes, white peaches, white and yellow flowers, with some salty-chalky vibes. On the palate, this is zippy and fun with bright acidity but some nice textural depth. Bright green apples, with limes, papaya, mixed in with some nice white flowers, dandelion, and some chalk dust and minerals. Crushable and fun but complex and balanced, too. Paso has such variety, that there’s always some cool iteration of an Old World style here, and this blend of Grenache Blanc, Verdelho, Vermentino, and Picpoul is a lot of fun. (90 points)

2023 Three Sticks Castenada Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $45
Pretty light strawberry color. The nose is super fresh and spritely, with crushed shells, talc, floral perfume, daisies, over tangy strawberries, white cherries, and crunchy red apples. The palate has this wonderful depth of texture, rich but vibrant with crisp acidity. Flavors of papaya, white cherry, watermelon, and red apples mix wonderfully with floral, mint, talc, limestone, and white tea elements. Lots of minerals and herbal nuances – very impressive depth and complexity. All estate grown Pinot and Chardonnay. (92 points)

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