Revisiting the exciting wines of Southern Arizona

Sunrise on a Superstitions Mountains ridgeline (Dec. 2023)

I’ve been visiting Arizona once or twice a year since 2010, and I’m barely scratching the surface. As an avid outdoors lover, there’s just so much to do. And I’ve really enjoyed getting to know the diverse and rather vast winemaking culture. Since I started paying attention, things have gotten even more dynamic and exciting.

I’m a huge fan of producers like Page Springs Cellars, which was the first vineyard I visited, located in the Verde Valley south of Sedona. But time and again, I’ve found some of the most delicious and interesting wines come from the high elevation desert vineyards of Southeastern Arizona. Here, in the Willcox and Cochise County regions, things just seem to click.

This is where Aridus calls home. I’ve been hip to this producer since 2016 or so. Since their beginnings in 2012, Scott and Joan Dahmer of Aridus have been developing estate vineyards and their winery outside the town of Pierce. And as of the 2023 vintage, all grapes will be sourced from estate sites. The winery now tends to 40 acres of vines in the Chiricahua Foothills, most of which grow at an elevation of about 5,200 feet. Where I’m from in the Mid-Atlantic, that’s higher than most of our mountains. The dry climate, diverse soils, and large variation between daytime and nighttime temperatures means Arizona regions have more in common with, say, Mendoza, than they do California.

Aridus, and a good amount of other producers, are currently based in the Willcox American Viticultural Area (AVA), which was established in 2016. The land is above 4,000 feet and wrapped by the Chiricahua and Dos Cabezas Mountains to the east, the Dragoon Mountains to the west, and the Pinaleño Mountains to the northeast. Recently, Aridus and neighboring winegrowers have proposed a new AVA called the Chiricahua Foothills, which would take its name from the nearby Chiricahua National Monument. I, for one, am curious to see where this process goes, as the potential for further exploring and establishing regional boundaries should be a help to the state’s wine business.

While a trip to the area is highly recommended, you don’t have to go that far to taste AZ wines. If you ever find yourself in Scottsdale with some time on your hands, the Aridus tasting room on Old Town is a nice spot to relax and get in the Arizona state of mind with some local vino.

While in Arizona in December – in addition to plenty of hiking, rock-climbing, and wildlife photography – I picked up some wines from two reliable producers who also make wine from Cochise County fruit – Page Springs and Dos Cabezas. I include those wines in this report as well.

Mountains outside of Sonoita, Arizona.

The Aridus wines were received as samples, while the others I purchased. They were all tasted sighted.

2019 Aridus Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Arizona
SRP: $59
Dark purple color. The nose has a pleasantly smoky and jammy mix of aromas, with black cherries, roasted figs, and plum cake, along with barbecue sauce, black pepper, roasted red pepper, and some oregano and anise tones. The palate is rich and suave with smooth tannins and moderating acidity. Flavors of cherry and currant compote, mixed with scorched earth, warm rocks, graphite, some bell pepper, and mineral dust. A spicy, balanced, delicious Cab that offers a great intro into what AZ is capable of with Cab. (90 points)

2020 Aridus Petite Sirah - USA, Arizona
SRP: $65
Dark purple. The nose shows a dense but warm and friendly mix of fig paste, boysenberry, wild blueberries, and the fruit is tossed with a lovely mix of anise, black pepper, coffee grounds, charcoal, and even some cinnamon and ginger nuances. The palate is rich a bold but the acidity is vibrant, balancing things nicely, while the dark fruit sings (black currants, plum sauce, roasted figs). The non-fruit tones offer a lot to love, with tar, coffee grounds, mocha, toffee, some mineral and graphite vibes. Long finish with smoky earth and herbs. A dark but delightful PS that holds itself well and should age nicely, too. Arizona has a knack for this variety for sure. (91 points)

2020 Aridus Cabernet Franc - USA, Arizona
SRP: $65
Bright purple color. I like the mix of deep but tangy fruit (black cherries, dark plums, currants) with savory vibes and tones (pepper, black licorice, roasted red pepper, some dried violet, clay). The palate is saucy but vibrant with chewy tannins and medium acidity, and plenty of tangy, juicy fruit in terms of plum, blackberry, and figs. The tones of pine resin, black pepper, sliced bell pepper, violets, clove, and all sorts of earth add complexity. Finishes with violets and spice rack dust. Pleasant, complex, balanced, I’d also like to see this in a few years. (90 points)

2020 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Cimarron Vineyard - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $28
Deep ruby. Jammy and ripe and fun on the nose with spicy red fruits and a mix of tar, mint, black pepper, and warm red clay. The palate sports dusty tannins and fresh acidity for a pleasantly balanced wine with flavors of jammy red cherries and juicy raspberries. The fruit is blended well with elements of clove, mint, white pepper, leather, some rhubarb, and hints of oak and spiced tea. Yummy, pleasant, balanced, crushable, fan-friendly red blend. (88 points)

2022 Dos Cabezas Wine Works Pink - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $25
Bright pink color. Spritely nose of white cherry, watermelon, raspberry, with tones of floral perfume, nettle, and creosote. The palate is racy and brisk with a pleasantly creamy texture and flavors of watermelons upon watermelons. Crunchy minerals, chalk dust, and plenty of dried white flowers and white tea make for a complex and delicious pink. Dos Cabezas, per usual, making the good stuff. (89 points)

2022 Page Springs Cellars Mule's Mistake - USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $23

Pale ruby color, almost like a dark rosé. Love the aromatic flourishes of tangy red apples, white cherries, wild strawberries, along with rose hops and white pepper. The palate is light, bright, and super crunchy, with brisk acidity and the softest little tannins. Tangy white cherries and wild raspberry fruit blends well with spicy-floral vibes (rhubarb, rose hips, rooibos tea, some green herbs). Every year, this is a wild kitchen sink blend of sometimes a dozen varieties (red and white), and it is always fun, exciting, and a great value. (88 points)

Selections for Valentine’s Day and beyond

Congrats to anyone who did a dry January! February is in full swing, and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. We’ve also got the Super Bowl coming up, and Spring will be knocking on the door before we know it.

A heart of locks on an Appalachian Trail overpass

So, if you’re looking to stock up on some wines for the coming festivities, branch out and try something new, or purchase a bottle or two for your special someone, this week I have a delightful mix of wines that will fit the bill.

Amour and French wines go together, so a few are needed on this list. Champagne (of course), but I also included some intriguing pink wines and a wine I don’t see too often but thoroughly enjoy – Faugères Blanc.

From Marlborough, New Zealand comes a Sauvignon Blanc worthy of love and affection – Loveblock. It’s one of the better iterations of the style that I’ve come across in recent years, and the value is great.

Portugal is one of my favorite places on Earth, and I loved taking my partner and daughter there last year to show them the country. The food, landscape, and (of course) wine are endlessly fascinating and interesting, so I had to include some cool new Portuguese wines in this report. I have a handful of wines that represent just a drop in the bucket in terms of Portugal’s wine diversity.

Italy also needs a spot on this lovely list of wine, and the wines of Valpolicella is such a great cold weather wine to enjoy and share with those you love. From Pasqua, I have two warm, hearty reds that are seriously worth checking out. They’re great for the cellar, a meat dish you’ve been braising all day, or a gift to someone you love.

I also have a stunner of a dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes’ Ravines. Riesling is perhaps the world’s greatest grape (arguments welcomed, but I won’t hold my breath). And this FLX wine is so vibrant and versatile. I also have a value-driven and delicious Pinot Noir from Oregon that I think would please most any palate.

Whatever you’re sipping and whoever you’re sipping it with, all the best for Valentine’s Day and the rest of Winter.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Château des Estanilles Faugères Vallongue Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. The aromas show a delightfully rich mix of pears and yellow apples, honey, graham cracker, almond, shaved ginger, along with some crushed limestone and flinty vibes. The palate has racy acidity and a precise sense of salinity, along with a lovely creamy texture. Flavors of white peach, yellow apples, pear butter, along with notes of almond and ginger cake, and crushed chalk and limestone tones. Minerals and talc on the long, pithy finish. Really delightful stuff, diverse, balanced, delicious, will age as well. 45% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, 20% Vermentino, aged six months on the lees in stainless steel. (91 points)

2022 Domaine de l'Abbaye Côtes de Provence Clos Beylesse - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence

SRP: $26
Pale copper color. The nose is a bright infusion of raspberries and white cherries, with lots of crushed stones, minerals, sea salt, with some nettle and white pepper tones. The palate is racy and pithy, contrasted and balanced by a honeyed depth. Peaches and raspberries, mixed with orange blossom, floral perfume, some chalk dust and minerals, and honeysuckle. Pleasant texture, bright, delicious, complex – a Provence pink to put some summer in your February. (90 points)

2022 Château d'Astros Côtes de Provence Cuvée Amour - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $18
Rich salmon color. A juicy mix of watermelon, white cherry, and strawberries, with flinty, chalky, crushed stone vibes, along with celery seed, perfume, and lily elements. The palate is crisp but taut with red apples and white cherry fruits, balanced and vibrant. The fruit is laced with notes of sea salt, limestone, chalk dust, along with all sorts of white tea, mint, white flowers, and some celery seed tones. Zesty, springy, floral, versatile, this is great for Valentine’s Day, spring, or really any time of year. (90 points)

N.V. Perrier-Jouët Champagne Grand Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $65
Light gold color. A classic and inviting aromatic blend of biscuits, gingerbread, almond cake, with lemon bars, lime zest, green pears and white peaches, with lots of floral tones. The palate has a crunchy, flinty, fresh appeal with a nice creamy depth, pleasantly balanced. Yellow apples, lemons and limes, and juicy peach fruit mixes well with elements of nougat, fresh biscuits, honey butter, and honeyed ginger tea. Complex, refined, classic. (90 points)

2015 Pasqua Valpolicella Superiore Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. An exciting aromatic display of deep red currants, saucy plums, and black cherry jam, along with a host of non-fruit complexities: loamy earth, roasted red pepper, chewing tobacco, eucalyptus, with notes of cedar. Ripe bright on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and fresh acidity, supporting saucy mulled fruits (currants, plums, black cherries). Balanced and refined with flourishes of dried violets, earth, soy sauce, sage, leather Fresh and bright personality throughout but offers a lot to parse through. (91 points)

2013 Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

SRP: $85
Dark ruby color. Aromas invite contemplation with these nuanced savory, floral, and spice-laden tones, accenting the blackberry, cranberry relish, and mulled cherry fruit. I also get some coffee and dark chocolate. When sipping, this wine is both bold and elegant, with structured but sanded tannins and crisp acidity. Beautiful red cherry and currant fruit with cranberry relish, accented by leather, dusty earth, warm clay, chewing tobacco, cigar box, sandalwood, and coffee. A concentrated but expressive Amarone, and one that will have love to show for many years. Bury a bottle or enjoy now! (93 points)

2022 Loveblock Vintners Ltd Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $31
Medium yellow color. So bright and inviting on the nose with ruby red grapefruit, green melon, limes, and the fruit is mixed with a complex blend of honey, tropical flowers, with nuanced green herbs and wild leeks. The palate sports gorgeous, pleasantly creamy texture, matched by brisk acidity, with pristine balance. Flavors of white peach, lemons and limes, cantaloupe, and honeydew. The fruit is tossed with complex notes of stones and chalk dust, minerals, white pepper, wild green herbs. It has this stony, mountain stream clarity, lots of precision, and a long finish. A NZ Sauv Blanc to win over any skeptics. (92 points)

2022 Quinta da Raza Trajadura Raza Pet-Nat - Portugal
SRP: $20
Bold yellow color with fine fizz. Lively and floral on the nose, with scents of white peaches and limes, along with dandelion, chalk, crushed sweet tarts – really floral and vibrant. The palate is pithy and tart, crunchy and dry, a bit bracing but delicious. Fruit-wise, this shows orange peel, tart pear, green apple, and to that the wine adds saline, quinine, minerals, dried white flowers, and some spicy nettle or mint. Focused, lively, great stuff to stock up on for Spring. Made from the Trajadura grape. (89 points)

2020 Companhia Agricola do Sanguinhal Óbidos Grande Reserva Branco Quinta das Cerejeiras - Portugal, Lisboa, Óbidos
SRP: $27
Bright yellow color. The nose shows yellow and green pears, lemon curd, and green apples, matched with crushed limestone, slate, along with honey and yellow flowers. The palate shows a rich textural weight but zesty acidity, combining for a clear and focused white. Flavors of lemon, quince, and green apples blend with tones of cut flower stems, basil, some crushed stone, sea salt. Delicious and harmonious. I travelled to Obidos last year and, my goodness, it is an incredible place and home to some delightful wines. Chardonnay, Arinto, and Vital grapes aged eight months in French oak and four months in steel. (90 points)

2021 Aveleda Alvarinho Solos de Granito - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Regional Minho
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Aromatically cranking with floral and citrus goodness – I get lemon, quince, limes, with mountain stream, stony minerals, saline, grapefruit rind, some honeysuckle. Racy acidity skates over the palate but there’s a nice textural complexity and depth, too. Flavors of ruby red grapefruit and oranges mix well with all sorts of white and yellow flowers, mountain stream, sea salt, and a level of mineral infusion that is so invigorating. Bring on all sorts of seafood and shellfish, or just sip as an apéritif. Well done! Fermented and aged in stainless steel for nine months with lees stirring. (91 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Prazo de Roriz - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. The nose shows tangy red and black currants and cherries and a whole lot of savory/spicy tones like: warm rocks, potting soil, sage and anise, oregano, black pepper. Fresh and ripe on the palate with chewy but structured tannins and moderating acidity. The plum, red and black cherry, and roasted fig fruit is deep and tangy. Notes of chewing tobacco, scorched earth, graphite, and dark chocolate shavings add complexity. For me, this is a perennial winner both for its quality and value. A classic Portuguese blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Touriga Franca. (90 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Post Scriptum de Chryseia - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. The nose exudes a warm, wintry, but inviting host of currant jam, plum cake, fig paste, along with savory broth and pepper, dried violets, a cool leathery kick, and some graphite and minerals. The palate is grippy but suave with zippy acidity and a concentrated but fresh appeal. Flavors of plums, currant and fig paste, and tart blueberry. Add in some smoky earth, tar, leather, black pepper, anise, along with black tea and nuanced oak. This is juicy, tangy, and complex, and should also age well. Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with small amounts of Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Sousão, and Tinta Cão. (91 points)

2020 Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling - USA, New York, Finger Lakes

SRP: $21 

Lovely gold color. Beautiful depth of aromas packed in here – papaya, lime, white peach, yellow flowers, honey, ocean spray, smashed rocks. The palate has precise balance and a dry, zesty appeal with a pure mouthfeel. Flavors of yellow pears, white peach, and papaya taste ripe and alive. Then the waves of non-fruit complexities rush in: slate, minerals, ocean jetty, flinty tones, with perfume, and honeysuckle. Tingling minerals last long onto the finish. Great stuff, classic Finger Lakes Riesling goodness, and an exceptional value. (91 points)

2021 Rare North Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. The aromas are bright and red with cranberry, raspberry, tangy strawberry, along with notes of dusty earth, rhubarb, and some richer notes of light roast coffee grounds and roasted chestnut. On the palate, medium acidity with smooth, lightly dusty tannins, and a cool mix of fruit – from black cherry and plum to raspberry and strawberry rhubarb pie. The non-fruit elements are a lot of fun – there’s some spicy herbal tea, with roasted chestnut and cinnamon elements, and some rose petals and rhubarb. Lovely, fresh, will-please-all-palates kind of Willamette Pinot at a steal of a price. (89 points)

Diving into Alto Adige's distinctive wines

Credit: IDM Florian Andergassen

Note: This is my first contribution to my friend Aaron Menenberg’s Good Vitis site.

After all my years, there are still many wine regions of Italy I wanted to explore further. Recently, I’ve been digging into the Alto Adige region from afar, and I’m happy to report the findings have been delightful.

Though one of Italy’s smaller wine-producing regions, Alto Adige is complex and full of unique sites and winemaking cultures. Here, independent growers, smaller family-run wineries, and cooperatives work with some 20 different grape varieties in vineyards that run the gamut from warm Mediterranean-influenced valleys, to steep, alpine-chilled slopes.

Like the Italian mountaineers of old who chased first ascents in the Dolomites and beyond, these wines are intense, bold, and scrappy. Vineyards are planted at elevations from 600 to 4,000 feet, and often on steep inclined slopes. A real advantage for some winegrowers is the variability in elevation available to some growers, explained Jakob Gasser of St. Michael-Eppan Winery at a recent trade webinar. Located in Appiano, in the foothills of the Dolomites, producers like him can source the right grape from the right elevation and soil to achieve their goals. The winds generated by the mountains, and the resulting diurnal temperature swings, combined with lots of Mediterranean sunshine and warmth – it all comes together in this region to create unique and diverse terroir signatures.

Of course, winemaking goes back generations. But in recent years, the region has undergone something of a transition, from a lesser-known but respected region, to one whose wines are getting more recognition and attention from a larger audience.

When I first started studying Italian wine, I dug into the appellations, maps, and stats, but I didn’t spend much time with the wines from Alto Adige. They weren’t as easy to find, and perhaps I filed this away in my wine brain as “an Italian white wine region that looks interesting but I’ll take a deeper look sometime.” Even today, it’s not often a wine from Alto Adige pops up on a table with my wine friends. But I’m hoping that changes, as I think there’s a ton of opportunity out in these hills.

Chris Struck (New York-based Alto Adige ambassador and beverage direction at ilili Restaurants) said slow and steady work has led to a broader appreciation of what makes this region special. “Whether you’re looking at bellwethers like export data or media buzz, the region is well-poised as having ‘great wines from a great place with a storied history that you may have ever heard of but are hearing about now and should try,”’ Chris told me in an email. “And no wonder, as it has gateway international varieties that people have heard of (but which have a distinct style, as expressed in Alto Adige’s terroir), as well as native varieties that offer something brand new to explore.”

Read the full article and the rest of the Good Vitis Winter Issue here.

The clear, oceanic white wines of California's Cormorant Cellars

Much of the U.S. has been hit with some bitterly cold weather in recent weeks. And Winter will have more for us on the way. Many folks take a break from wine for a while around this time of year, or pull the cork on a warm red wine. But once of my favorite things about the dead of winter, is cooking up a vibrant salad, maybe a lemon-butter fish dish, and a crisp, mineral-driven white wine. I like Winter and spend a lot of time outdoors in the cold, but this helps brighten things up during the shorter months as we look forward to Spring.

One California producer that rocks the white wine category is Cormorant Cellars. Based in Sonoma’s Healdsburg, this producer is relatively new, having kicked off in 2018. Founder Charlie Gilmore, however, has been into winemaking for two decades. With this project, he sources organic grapes from Sonoma, Monterey, and the Santa Cruz Mountains, and makes wines in a unfined, unfiltered, but crystal-clear style. They have an old-school, unassuming appeal, but the depth and flavor are packed in there well. 

Sauvignon Blanc vines in the Montorana Vineyard. Credit: Allison Handbury

When I first tasted their Sauvignon Blanc, it hit differently. Vibrant, natural but focused, complex, delicious – and this coming from someone who doesn’t generally turn to California Sauv Blanc that often. To follow that up, their Chardonnay is bright and crystalline, and they also have a new Grenache Blanc-Marsanne blend that brings out the best of both grapes. 

Charlie grew up spending time on the Monterey coast, where he fell spent time with his dad watching and photographing cormorants – long-necked, fish-eating, colony-nesting birds of the coast. (Can you tell I’m a birdwatcher, too?). I grew up on the opposite coast, and my mother, who taught me to surf, also drew my attention to these oceanic birds. (Did you know they can dive for up to two minutes?) Perhaps it’s a coincidence that the wines in this post have such an oceanic essence and would go great with fish. Perhaps. But if you’re feeling a bit stale about California white wines, Cormorant is seriously worth checking out. 

Oh, and they also produce a new red bend of Merlot, Cab, and Petit Verdot, which I didn’t taste here. 

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

2021 Cormorant Cellars Chardonnay Zabala Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
SRP: $27
Medium yellow color. The aromas pop with lemon and quince, green lemon, along with plenty of white and yellow flowers, and a pleasantly natty vibe, some saline and oyster shells – lovely. The palate sports a zesty and bracing appeal with salty, rocky shoreline appeal. The green apple, kiwi, and orange peel flavors are accented with a crazy mix of dried honey, almond skin, chalk dust, sea salt. It’s intense in a lot of ways, but I think it’s incredibly well done. (92 points)

Credit: Allison Handbury

2021 Cormorant Cellars Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $24
Pale lemon color. The nose is a bright and aromatic mix of lemon peels, orange zest, grapefruit, along with slate, crunchy sea salt, white flowers, oyster shell, and hints of almond. The palate is racy and taut with an energetic appeal but some nice textural depth. Crunchy green apples, lemons, orange peel, the fruit is infused with saline, ocean spray, honeysuckle, some mint. Such a focused wine with a mineral kick on the finish. Racy, vibrant, complex, and this should age well, too. A beautiful Dry Creek Sauv Blanc. (92 points)

2021 Cormorant Cellars Preston Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $27
Light yellow color. Peachy keen on the nose with a great mix of green melon, peach nectar, papaya, lime zest, along with yellow and white flowers, potpourri, some pineapple candies and honey. The palate sports a rich texture but a classic Grenache Blanc salty-zesty appeal, with flavors of peaches, papaya, kiwi, and oranges. I love the intricacies and detail within the floral and spice tones, and lots of chalk and minerals. Rich but vibrant, pure and racy, this is a wonderful blend of these two varieties (Grenache Blanc with 36% Marsanne). (91 points) 

A cormorant with a fish lunch off the Jersey Shore. 

Merry Edwards continues to excel with new releases

I’ve been visiting, tasting, and writing about Merry Edwards and their wines for many years, and I love revisiting (and being revitalized by) them.

A legend of early Sonoma winemaking, Merry Edwards helped blaze a path for Sonoma Pinot Noir decades ago. Over the years, they’ve never lost their stride, keeping the classics going while experimenting with new blends and vineyards.

Since taking over winemaking four years ago upon Merry’s retirement, winemaker Heidi Von Der Mehden and her team have kept the ship running smoothly since then. I really enjoyed some of the 2021 Pinot Noirs last year, and also had a great time visiting the winery again in the Spring.

So, I was excited to taste another lineup of new releases, including a few more 2021s, another great Olivet Lane Chardonnay, and the new vintage of the iconic Sauvignon Blanc. Across-the-board, the wines are great – which are the at the top of this lineup just depends on your stylistic preferences. And while I wouldn’t describe these wines as inexpensive, the quality you get for your dollar here is very impressive. Also, if you haven’t tried aging some of Merry Edwards’ wines, it is worth it. I’ve had a 10-year-old Sauvignon before, and it was stellar. And years in the cellar coaxes out all sorts of savory nuances and elegant flourishes in the Pinot Noirs.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Merry Edwards Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $68
Medium yellow color. Aromatically, this sings clearly with bright tones of quince, lemon, and crunchy apricot, and I also get an infusion of saline, chalk dust, white tea, some almond skin – delightful. The palate is racy and focused, balanced with a creamy texture, and bright with fruit (apricot, papaya, drizzled with lime). The fruit is backed up with complex notes of almond, hay, honey, some chalk dusty, with a salty mineral kick that lingers long on the finish. A delightful example of a classic Chardonnay vineyard – worth stashing a few in the cellar for sure, as this will improve wonderfully. Aged nine months on the lees in 47% new French oak. (94 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $50
Light golden color. The nose is peachy keen with cantaloupe, lime, kiwi, and papaya, backed up with spicy white pepper, sliced jalapeno, with some almond skin, honey, and candle wax – a lot to dig into. The palate is plush but taut with a spritely appeal and flavors of papaya, yellow apples, kiwi, lemon slices. There’s a brisk infusion of minerals, chalk dust, and mountain stream, with some white pepper and dandelion and deeper tones of honey, white tea, and hay. Complex, vibrant, racy, this is a perennial winner, and another great vintage. Aged five months on the lees in 18% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $60
Bright ruby color. The aromas are lively and fresh with strawberries and red currants, along with saucier notes of cranberry relish, and notes of spiced rhubarb pie, white pepper, rose petals. The palate sings with crisp acidity and the tannins show smooth edges, supporting the tangy, juicy fruit (strawberries, wild raspberries, red cherries). There’s a lot of nuance and cool elements and textures, with herbal tea, clay, rhubarb, pepper, a variety of green herbs and anise. Delightful balance and overall vibe, a great introduction to Merry Edwards’ Pinot and a solid value. Aged nine months in 47% new French oak. (93 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Meredith Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $90
Light purple color. A deep but inviting aromatic display of black cherries, strawberry jam, red plums, with rhubarb pie, clove, nuanced cola, warm clay, violet petals. The palate shows a lush texture with suave tannins and fresh acidity, giving the wine a deep but racy feel with flavors of black cherries, plum sauce, and tangy strawberries. The non-fruit complexities abound (rhubarb, spiced tea, violets and roses, white pepper, coffee grounds). Expressive already, bright and elegant right out of the gate, but this also has the stuffing for the cellar. Aged nine months in 55% new French oak. (94 points)

2021 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Richaven - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80 

Deep ruby color. Beautiful aromas of tangy red and black currants, raspberry jam, fresh strawberries, with an interesting mix of white pepper, eucalyptus, mint, some clove and leather – air brings all sorts of cool nuances. Racy acidity frames this wine well, with structured but smooth tannins, such poise and balance in this wine. Tangy red plums, juicy black cherries, jammy raspberries, with all sorts of floral potpourri, mint, eucalyptus, some menthol, roasted chestnut. Love the complexity of flavors and the balance and focus. Polished already but another one I’d like to taste again in five years. A newer addition to the lineup, this vineyard near the Meredith Estate was planted in 2015. Wow, does it show promise. Aged nine months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

Kicking off the New Year with new California releases

Happy New Year! It’s January 7 – but, still. I hope everyone had a safe and joyous holiday season, and your 2024 is off to a great start. If you’re not doing a dry January, or if you just want to keep up with new wines while taking some time off this month, I have a few wines this week to kick off 2024 on the right foot.

I’m focusing on some new releases from California today, and on wines that deliver quality along with a lot of value. Early January can be a time to tighten up the belts and pay down those travel or holiday bills. So, the wines this week are very reasonably priced, which makes exploring a new-to-you producer a lot easier.

Juggernaut is a California project that immediately grabs your eyes with their intricate animal artwork on the labels. But these are no “critter wine” – there’s serious juice in here. For $20, their Pinot and Cab deliver about as much complexity and depth as humanly possible.

Barra of Mendocino has been such a reliable producer for me, annually putting out classic varietal wines that speak truly of their place. I’ve spent a lot of time in Mendocino over the years, and it’s rugged coast, mountains, and deep forests will always call to me. Sipping one of Barra’s wines is a great way to transport myself back there. The three wines featured here offer a good window into this producer’s style and reliability.

I also have a tradition of opening a bottle of rosé on the first proper snowstorm of the winter. Living in the Mid-Atlantic region, that day has not come yet. We just got hit with inches of cold rain instead. I’m hoping snow is on the way in a few weeks, and when it finally arrives, I think this rosé from Napa’s Hoopes Vineyard is an excellent choice.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Hoopes Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley

SRP: $38
Ripe watermelon color. The aromas pop with tangy strawberries, watermelon, raspberries, with saline, basil, yellow flowers, hay – really vibrant and inviting. The palate is racy and taut with a crunchy mouthfeel but plenty of textural depth and juicy fruit (watermelon, honeydew, strawberries). I get all sorts of cool notes: chalk dust, floral perfume, limestone, basil, white pepper. Lovely freshness and minerality, which lingers on the finish. Lovely Napa Rose here. 80% Cab, with some Malbec, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Merlot. (91 points)

2021 Juggernaut Wine Company Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $20
Bright ruby color. So fresh and crunchy on the nose with raspberries, red apples, strawberries, along with rhubarb, rose petals, clay soil, and some herbal tea tones. The palate is tangy and zippy with nice depth and dusty tannins, buttressed by fresh acidity. The flavors of tangy strawberries and raspberries mix well with nuances of earth, dried roses and violets, white pepper, and hints of cola and rhubarb pie. Lots of fun, fresh, quite complex, and balanced. (90 points)

2021 Juggernaut Wine Company Hillside Cabernet - USA, California
SRP: $20
Light purple color. The nose exudes smoky earth, tar, and grilled steak along with notes of plum sauce, blackberry jam, mocha, and some tar and dried violets. The palate shows ripe tannins and medium acidity with flavors of saucy cherries and plums, blackberry jam, plum cake. The fruit is mixed with tones of spiced black tea, mesquite, tar, and mocha. Spicy, juicy, lots of fun. (89 points)

2022 The Federalist Wines Pinot Noir - USA, California, Central Coast
SRP: $21
Vibrant ruby color. The nose shows saucy, jammy fruit (black cherries, raspberry, wild blueberries) along with rhubarb, mocha, some toffee, violets. The palate shows smooth tannins and medium acidity, setting the stage for the flavors of plum sauce and black cherry and raspberry jams. Notes of sage, earth, tobacco, and mint add complexity, with some sweet oak on the finish. This is a fun, fresh, crowd-pleasing, value-driven Pinot. (87 points)

2021 Barra of Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $28
Ripe purple color. The aromas show a deep, saucy, warm appeal, with black cherries and currant jam, along with smoky earth, charcoal, dried sage and thyme, and notes of tobacco and clove. The palate shows a ripe and saucy appeal, with suave but structured tannins, and pleasantly refreshing acidity that keeps it together. Plums, red and black currants, roasted figs, the fruit is tangy, deep, and delicious, accented by coffee grounds, dark chocolate shavings, chewing tobacco, rocky earth, and a vein of graphite and minerals running through it all. Super fun, and really well done. (90 points)

2020 Barra of Mendocino Zinfandel Reserve -

USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $26
Vibrant purple color. Ripe and jammy aromas of black cherries, wild blueberries, raspberries, mixed with spicy green herbs, tobacco leaf, black tea, spiced coffee, hints of dark chocolate. The palate is full but plush with smooth tannins, fresh acidity, and a host of complex, tangy fruits (cherries, raspberries, currants). Notes of spiced black tea, violets and roses, with tobacco and oregano vibes. Super fun and fan-friendly, but the balance, vibrancy, and complexity are impressive. (91 points)

2020 Barra of Mendocino Petite Sirah Reserve - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. The aromas have this dark, compact feel, but air coaxes out a lot of nuance – roasted figs and plum sauce fruit blends well with roasted red pepper, barbecue sauce, black pepper, leather, and anise. The palate kicks off with fresh acidity that carries through the entire experience, and the tannins provide a nice amount of grip. Currant paste, roasted figs, and tangy plums, the fruit is mixed expertly with tones of pepper, smoky earth, tar, coffee grounds, and clove. Dark and spicy, but expressive and fresh. A perfect wine for a cold winter night and braised meat. (91 points)