And every time I sip a glass of good muscadet, the ocean comes back to me in waves. No wine in the world better captures the essence and the purity of the ocean than muscadet. (One could make an argument that Grand Cru Chablis does a damn good job as well, but we’re talking five to ten times the cost of a high-end muscadet). Salty brine, seaweed, sea shells, rocks, minerals… all these aromas and flavors abound in the juice of the humble melon de bourgogne grape (the variety that comprises all muscadet wines). Of course, muscadet offers much more than just ocean flavors: crunchy acid, creamy body, every variety of citrus and apple flavor, white flowers and more minerality than an Alpine stream.
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| Muscadet comes from the coastal region of northwest France. |
Like any wine from any region, the producer matters most. Luckily for us, MuscaDay 2013 featured some of the best winemakers in the region. We also covered a range of vintages (muscadet can age beautifully) as well as some of the most exciting single-vineyard wines in the region.
I was like a kid at the beach taking notes on these wines. My notes, broken down by producer, are below the fold...
Luneau-Papin (Domaine Pierre de la Grange)
Located in the small commune of Le Landreau, the Luneau-Papin estate turns out some of the most consistent and enduring muscadets. Also known as Domaine Pierre de la Grange, this estate has been home to melon de bourgogne vines since the early 1700s. (No big deal, they’ve just been making muscadet longer than my native country has existed.)
1997 Domaine Pierre de la Grange (Luneau-Papin) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Le "L" d'Or
Aromas of lemon peel, orange peel, sea salt and beeswax. Pure and tangy on the palate, with a solid minerals and hardcore acidity. Flavors of green apple, sea salt, oyster brine, sea shells. Rich wax and nut flavors make this a complex wine. Some thought this wine was a bit muted, but I think it’s just gotten a bit more restrained with age. Still wonderful. (90 points)
Aromas of lemon peel, orange peel, sea salt and beeswax. Pure and tangy on the palate, with a solid minerals and hardcore acidity. Flavors of green apple, sea salt, oyster brine, sea shells. Rich wax and nut flavors make this a complex wine. Some thought this wine was a bit muted, but I think it’s just gotten a bit more restrained with age. Still wonderful. (90 points)
2002 Domaine Pierre de la Grange (Luneau-Papin) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Le "L" d'Or
Aromas of lemon, grapefruit and brisk minerals. On the palate, this shows more plump and fruity aspects than the ’97. Bright green apple, orange peel, sea salt, crushed rocks and salty minerals last long onto the finish. At 11 years old, this has a good five more ahead of it easily. (89 points)
Aromas of lemon, grapefruit and brisk minerals. On the palate, this shows more plump and fruity aspects than the ’97. Bright green apple, orange peel, sea salt, crushed rocks and salty minerals last long onto the finish. At 11 years old, this has a good five more ahead of it easily. (89 points)
2005 Domaine Pierre de la Grange (Luneau-Papin) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Le "L" d'Or
Aromas of crushed sea shells, East Coast jetty rocks, hints of seaweed, but also some fresh lemon and potpourri. Rich and buttery on the palate, with lots of creamy pear and yellow flowers, but the acidic verve keeps everything else in check. This has a lot going for it, and I think it could age for another ten years easily. (90 points)
Aromas of crushed sea shells, East Coast jetty rocks, hints of seaweed, but also some fresh lemon and potpourri. Rich and buttery on the palate, with lots of creamy pear and yellow flowers, but the acidic verve keeps everything else in check. This has a lot going for it, and I think it could age for another ten years easily. (90 points)
2009 Domaine Pierre de la Grange (Luneau-Papin) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Le "L" d'Or
Aromas of yellow pear, green melon, salt, apple peel. The palate is pure and fresh, with yellow and green fruits. Nice acidic cut (maybe not as much as other vintages, but still high). I get those usual crushed rocks and citrus peel flavors, but I get more of an herbal kick from this wine. Salty finish. I’d like to try it in another five years to see what it does. (89 points)
Aromas of yellow pear, green melon, salt, apple peel. The palate is pure and fresh, with yellow and green fruits. Nice acidic cut (maybe not as much as other vintages, but still high). I get those usual crushed rocks and citrus peel flavors, but I get more of an herbal kick from this wine. Salty finish. I’d like to try it in another five years to see what it does. (89 points)
2007 Luneau-Papin Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Semper Excelsior
Simply superb. Aromas of lemonhead candy, mango and limestone. The palate is rich and plush, with orange pulp and white flowers. I love the richness, but it still shows intense mineral and acidic verve. This and lobster with butter... incredible pairing. (91 points)
Simply superb. Aromas of lemonhead candy, mango and limestone. The palate is rich and plush, with orange pulp and white flowers. I love the richness, but it still shows intense mineral and acidic verve. This and lobster with butter... incredible pairing. (91 points)
Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier)
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| Muscadet and seafood... it doesn't get any better than this. |
Marc Ollivier is an artist with the melon de bourgogne grape. His Domaine de la Pépière produces half-a-dozen different bottlings, each one unique in its own way.
MuscaDay 2013 was the first time I tried one of Marc Ollivier’s Granite de Clisson wines, and I got to taste three back-to-back. Granite de Clisson is a specially-designated cuvée made by only a few producers. The wine must come from old vines planted in granite soils and undergo two years of sur lie aging, which adds depth and complexity to the wines. The Clos des Briords is a single-vineyard cuvée from some of the estate’s oldest vines, which were planted in 1930! It’s one of my favorite muscadets regardless of vintage, and an insane value at around $15. Actually, it might have one of the highest quality-to-price ratios in all of the wine world
2007 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Granite de Clisson
Tasted from a magnum. I liked all of the vintages represented in this tasting, but something about 2007 speaks to me. Aromas of peach blossom, guava, perfume, orange peel, honeyed tea. The palate is rich, deep and full of creamy peach, guava and orange fruit, but of course the zesty acid is there for balance. Bracing minerals provide backbone. The depth of this makes me think it could age for a decade. (91 points)
Tasted from a magnum. I liked all of the vintages represented in this tasting, but something about 2007 speaks to me. Aromas of peach blossom, guava, perfume, orange peel, honeyed tea. The palate is rich, deep and full of creamy peach, guava and orange fruit, but of course the zesty acid is there for balance. Bracing minerals provide backbone. The depth of this makes me think it could age for a decade. (91 points)
2010 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Granite de Clisson
Tasted from a magnum. Green melon, lemon and apricot on the nose. The palate is fresh but lush. Tangy, grippy acid, flavors of green apple peel, candied ginger and salt. Long and full. (89 points)
Tasted from a magnum. Green melon, lemon and apricot on the nose. The palate is fresh but lush. Tangy, grippy acid, flavors of green apple peel, candied ginger and salt. Long and full. (89 points)
2009 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Trois
White flowers, margarita salt, lime and crushed rocks on the nose. Full and plush on the palate, with white peach and lemon curd, but the purity of the acid and minerals never stops. Long and creamy finish. A “richer” style, but this is muscadet, so it’s all relative. (89 points)
White flowers, margarita salt, lime and crushed rocks on the nose. Full and plush on the palate, with white peach and lemon curd, but the purity of the acid and minerals never stops. Long and creamy finish. A “richer” style, but this is muscadet, so it’s all relative. (89 points)
2010 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords
Salty and briny on the nose, with faint perfume and white flowers. The palate shows a salty, pure mineral aspect, a briny oceanic theme mixes with sweet citrus. Generously textured and long, full of life for the cellar. (90 points)
Salty and briny on the nose, with faint perfume and white flowers. The palate shows a salty, pure mineral aspect, a briny oceanic theme mixes with sweet citrus. Generously textured and long, full of life for the cellar. (90 points)
2011 Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Ollivier) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords
Bright lemons and flowers on the nose. Huge amount of grapefruit, orange peel and peach fruit, but the minerals don’t quit. Tangy acid. A bit richer in style than the 2010, and simply delicious. (90 points)
Bright lemons and flowers on the nose. Huge amount of grapefruit, orange peel and peach fruit, but the minerals don’t quit. Tangy acid. A bit richer in style than the 2010, and simply delicious. (90 points)
André-Michel Brégeon
Wine importer Kermit Lynch calls André-Michel Brégeon “part renegade, part crusader, and full-blown terroirist.” Sounds about right to me. Brégeon has been making muscadet since 1975. His vines grow in a rare soil called gabbro, which is made of blue-green volcanic rock. To say his wines are terroir-driven would be an understatement. He’s one of a few producers who are trying to get the “Gorges” designation approved as a separate appellation because of its unique soils.
Wine importer Kermit Lynch calls André-Michel Brégeon “part renegade, part crusader, and full-blown terroirist.” Sounds about right to me. Brégeon has been making muscadet since 1975. His vines grow in a rare soil called gabbro, which is made of blue-green volcanic rock. To say his wines are terroir-driven would be an understatement. He’s one of a few producers who are trying to get the “Gorges” designation approved as a separate appellation because of its unique soils.
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| My wine of the night... What a beauty! |
A complex and philosophical muscadet. Aromas of apricot, honey, green melon, grapefruit rind, minerals and beeswax. The palate is pure and layered, with rich melon fruit and honey but the crushed rocks and mineral notes keep it zesty. I love the fruit and length of this wine, and it will continue to improve for a long time. (92 points)
2005 André-Michel Brégeon Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Reserve
Candied grapefruit and lemon peel on the nose. On the palate, green melon mixes with key lime, salt and dried honey. Pure and fresh, with a long and salty finish. Classic 2005 muscadet, and it could develop even more intensity over the next five years. (89 points)
Candied grapefruit and lemon peel on the nose. On the palate, green melon mixes with key lime, salt and dried honey. Pure and fresh, with a long and salty finish. Classic 2005 muscadet, and it could develop even more intensity over the next five years. (89 points)
Domaine de la Louvetrie
2005 Domaine de la Louvetrie (Landron & Fils) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Le Fief du Breil
Salt, lime, meringue and yellow flowers on the nose. Tangy and salty on the palate, with lime, mineral and apricot. Sleek and steely on the finish with notes of sea breeze. (88 points)
2010 Domaine de la Louvetrie (Landron & Fils) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Le Fief du Breil
Aromas of sea spray, lemons, salted fish and sea shell. Fresh, tangy, briny on the palate with notes of sea shell, mussel shell and crushed rocks. Saline finish. Very oceanic. (88 points)
Aromas of sea spray, lemons, salted fish and sea shell. Fresh, tangy, briny on the palate with notes of sea shell, mussel shell and crushed rocks. Saline finish. Very oceanic. (88 points)
2010 Domaine de la Louvetrie (Landron & Fils) Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Hermine d'Or -
Banana peel, limestone and apricot on the nose. Tangy and fresh on the palate, with flavors of green apple peel and focused minerals. Solid stuff, but it didn’t stand out that much. (87 points)
Banana peel, limestone and apricot on the nose. Tangy and fresh on the palate, with flavors of green apple peel and focused minerals. Solid stuff, but it didn’t stand out that much. (87 points)
Bonnet-Huteau
I’ve tasted a ton of Bonnet-Huteau’s wines over the past, mostly because I live close to Weygandt Wines, which imports a bunch of their muscadets. And I can’t remember tasting a bottle that I didn’t like. Considering most Bonnet-Huteau wines cost less than $15, the quality is absurd. The Goulaine is the higher-end bottling, and it was fun comparing the 2009 and 2010 vintages.
2009 Bonnet-Huteau Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Goulaine
Aromas of crushed sea shells, salted lime and brisk minerals. The palate is spritzy and rich with melon shell, lemon curd and sea brine flavors. Plush but very tangy. (88 points)
Aromas of crushed sea shells, salted lime and brisk minerals. The palate is spritzy and rich with melon shell, lemon curd and sea brine flavors. Plush but very tangy. (88 points)
2010 Bonnet-Huteau Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes Goulaine
Aromas of oyster shell, salt brine and lemon peel. The palate is full of creamy orange fruit, backed up by tangy acid and streaks of minerals. More focused than the 2009. (88 points)
Aromas of oyster shell, salt brine and lemon peel. The palate is full of creamy orange fruit, backed up by tangy acid and streaks of minerals. More focused than the 2009. (88 points)
Mixed Bag
Aromas of wax, pineapple, salt, lime and flowers. Fresh and pure on the palate, with bruised apple, apricot notes to accent the bracing minerals and sea brine flavors. (89 points)
Richer, fatter on the nose, with apricot and honey. The palate shows rich and full fruit, but lots of acid, and crisp minerals. Pure muscadet with more depth than I was expecting. (89 points)
2011 Domaine de la Quilla Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie
Vibrant nose of green apple and green melon. Nice richness on the palate, laser-like acid. Crisp melon and green apple flavors. Not as much depth as some of the others, but quite nice. (87 points)
Vibrant nose of green apple and green melon. Nice richness on the palate, laser-like acid. Crisp melon and green apple flavors. Not as much depth as some of the others, but quite nice. (87 points)
By the way, I just realized this is my 200th blog post. Thanks to everyone who’s stopped by over the past two years to read, comment and share in the discussion. Writing this blog has been a learning experience, a headache and a total blast.
Cheers to you all!
Cheers to you all!
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