Selections for Valentine’s Day and beyond

Congrats to anyone who did a dry January! February is in full swing, and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. We’ve also got the Super Bowl coming up, and Spring will be knocking on the door before we know it.

A heart of locks on an Appalachian Trail overpass

So, if you’re looking to stock up on some wines for the coming festivities, branch out and try something new, or purchase a bottle or two for your special someone, this week I have a delightful mix of wines that will fit the bill.

Amour and French wines go together, so a few are needed on this list. Champagne (of course), but I also included some intriguing pink wines and a wine I don’t see too often but thoroughly enjoy – Faugères Blanc.

From Marlborough, New Zealand comes a Sauvignon Blanc worthy of love and affection – Loveblock. It’s one of the better iterations of the style that I’ve come across in recent years, and the value is great.

Portugal is one of my favorite places on Earth, and I loved taking my partner and daughter there last year to show them the country. The food, landscape, and (of course) wine are endlessly fascinating and interesting, so I had to include some cool new Portuguese wines in this report. I have a handful of wines that represent just a drop in the bucket in terms of Portugal’s wine diversity.

Italy also needs a spot on this lovely list of wine, and the wines of Valpolicella is such a great cold weather wine to enjoy and share with those you love. From Pasqua, I have two warm, hearty reds that are seriously worth checking out. They’re great for the cellar, a meat dish you’ve been braising all day, or a gift to someone you love.

I also have a stunner of a dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes’ Ravines. Riesling is perhaps the world’s greatest grape (arguments welcomed, but I won’t hold my breath). And this FLX wine is so vibrant and versatile. I also have a value-driven and delicious Pinot Noir from Oregon that I think would please most any palate.

Whatever you’re sipping and whoever you’re sipping it with, all the best for Valentine’s Day and the rest of Winter.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Château des Estanilles Faugères Vallongue Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. The aromas show a delightfully rich mix of pears and yellow apples, honey, graham cracker, almond, shaved ginger, along with some crushed limestone and flinty vibes. The palate has racy acidity and a precise sense of salinity, along with a lovely creamy texture. Flavors of white peach, yellow apples, pear butter, along with notes of almond and ginger cake, and crushed chalk and limestone tones. Minerals and talc on the long, pithy finish. Really delightful stuff, diverse, balanced, delicious, will age as well. 45% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, 20% Vermentino, aged six months on the lees in stainless steel. (91 points)

2022 Domaine de l'Abbaye Côtes de Provence Clos Beylesse - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence

SRP: $26
Pale copper color. The nose is a bright infusion of raspberries and white cherries, with lots of crushed stones, minerals, sea salt, with some nettle and white pepper tones. The palate is racy and pithy, contrasted and balanced by a honeyed depth. Peaches and raspberries, mixed with orange blossom, floral perfume, some chalk dust and minerals, and honeysuckle. Pleasant texture, bright, delicious, complex – a Provence pink to put some summer in your February. (90 points)

2022 Château d'Astros Côtes de Provence Cuvée Amour - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $18
Rich salmon color. A juicy mix of watermelon, white cherry, and strawberries, with flinty, chalky, crushed stone vibes, along with celery seed, perfume, and lily elements. The palate is crisp but taut with red apples and white cherry fruits, balanced and vibrant. The fruit is laced with notes of sea salt, limestone, chalk dust, along with all sorts of white tea, mint, white flowers, and some celery seed tones. Zesty, springy, floral, versatile, this is great for Valentine’s Day, spring, or really any time of year. (90 points)

N.V. Perrier-Jouët Champagne Grand Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $65
Light gold color. A classic and inviting aromatic blend of biscuits, gingerbread, almond cake, with lemon bars, lime zest, green pears and white peaches, with lots of floral tones. The palate has a crunchy, flinty, fresh appeal with a nice creamy depth, pleasantly balanced. Yellow apples, lemons and limes, and juicy peach fruit mixes well with elements of nougat, fresh biscuits, honey butter, and honeyed ginger tea. Complex, refined, classic. (90 points)

2015 Pasqua Valpolicella Superiore Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. An exciting aromatic display of deep red currants, saucy plums, and black cherry jam, along with a host of non-fruit complexities: loamy earth, roasted red pepper, chewing tobacco, eucalyptus, with notes of cedar. Ripe bright on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and fresh acidity, supporting saucy mulled fruits (currants, plums, black cherries). Balanced and refined with flourishes of dried violets, earth, soy sauce, sage, leather Fresh and bright personality throughout but offers a lot to parse through. (91 points)

2013 Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

SRP: $85
Dark ruby color. Aromas invite contemplation with these nuanced savory, floral, and spice-laden tones, accenting the blackberry, cranberry relish, and mulled cherry fruit. I also get some coffee and dark chocolate. When sipping, this wine is both bold and elegant, with structured but sanded tannins and crisp acidity. Beautiful red cherry and currant fruit with cranberry relish, accented by leather, dusty earth, warm clay, chewing tobacco, cigar box, sandalwood, and coffee. A concentrated but expressive Amarone, and one that will have love to show for many years. Bury a bottle or enjoy now! (93 points)

2022 Loveblock Vintners Ltd Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $31
Medium yellow color. So bright and inviting on the nose with ruby red grapefruit, green melon, limes, and the fruit is mixed with a complex blend of honey, tropical flowers, with nuanced green herbs and wild leeks. The palate sports gorgeous, pleasantly creamy texture, matched by brisk acidity, with pristine balance. Flavors of white peach, lemons and limes, cantaloupe, and honeydew. The fruit is tossed with complex notes of stones and chalk dust, minerals, white pepper, wild green herbs. It has this stony, mountain stream clarity, lots of precision, and a long finish. A NZ Sauv Blanc to win over any skeptics. (92 points)

2022 Quinta da Raza Trajadura Raza Pet-Nat - Portugal
SRP: $20
Bold yellow color with fine fizz. Lively and floral on the nose, with scents of white peaches and limes, along with dandelion, chalk, crushed sweet tarts – really floral and vibrant. The palate is pithy and tart, crunchy and dry, a bit bracing but delicious. Fruit-wise, this shows orange peel, tart pear, green apple, and to that the wine adds saline, quinine, minerals, dried white flowers, and some spicy nettle or mint. Focused, lively, great stuff to stock up on for Spring. Made from the Trajadura grape. (89 points)

2020 Companhia Agricola do Sanguinhal Óbidos Grande Reserva Branco Quinta das Cerejeiras - Portugal, Lisboa, Óbidos
SRP: $27
Bright yellow color. The nose shows yellow and green pears, lemon curd, and green apples, matched with crushed limestone, slate, along with honey and yellow flowers. The palate shows a rich textural weight but zesty acidity, combining for a clear and focused white. Flavors of lemon, quince, and green apples blend with tones of cut flower stems, basil, some crushed stone, sea salt. Delicious and harmonious. I travelled to Obidos last year and, my goodness, it is an incredible place and home to some delightful wines. Chardonnay, Arinto, and Vital grapes aged eight months in French oak and four months in steel. (90 points)

2021 Aveleda Alvarinho Solos de Granito - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Regional Minho
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Aromatically cranking with floral and citrus goodness – I get lemon, quince, limes, with mountain stream, stony minerals, saline, grapefruit rind, some honeysuckle. Racy acidity skates over the palate but there’s a nice textural complexity and depth, too. Flavors of ruby red grapefruit and oranges mix well with all sorts of white and yellow flowers, mountain stream, sea salt, and a level of mineral infusion that is so invigorating. Bring on all sorts of seafood and shellfish, or just sip as an apéritif. Well done! Fermented and aged in stainless steel for nine months with lees stirring. (91 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Prazo de Roriz - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. The nose shows tangy red and black currants and cherries and a whole lot of savory/spicy tones like: warm rocks, potting soil, sage and anise, oregano, black pepper. Fresh and ripe on the palate with chewy but structured tannins and moderating acidity. The plum, red and black cherry, and roasted fig fruit is deep and tangy. Notes of chewing tobacco, scorched earth, graphite, and dark chocolate shavings add complexity. For me, this is a perennial winner both for its quality and value. A classic Portuguese blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Touriga Franca. (90 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Post Scriptum de Chryseia - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. The nose exudes a warm, wintry, but inviting host of currant jam, plum cake, fig paste, along with savory broth and pepper, dried violets, a cool leathery kick, and some graphite and minerals. The palate is grippy but suave with zippy acidity and a concentrated but fresh appeal. Flavors of plums, currant and fig paste, and tart blueberry. Add in some smoky earth, tar, leather, black pepper, anise, along with black tea and nuanced oak. This is juicy, tangy, and complex, and should also age well. Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with small amounts of Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Sousão, and Tinta Cão. (91 points)

2020 Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling - USA, New York, Finger Lakes

SRP: $21 

Lovely gold color. Beautiful depth of aromas packed in here – papaya, lime, white peach, yellow flowers, honey, ocean spray, smashed rocks. The palate has precise balance and a dry, zesty appeal with a pure mouthfeel. Flavors of yellow pears, white peach, and papaya taste ripe and alive. Then the waves of non-fruit complexities rush in: slate, minerals, ocean jetty, flinty tones, with perfume, and honeysuckle. Tingling minerals last long onto the finish. Great stuff, classic Finger Lakes Riesling goodness, and an exceptional value. (91 points)

2021 Rare North Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. The aromas are bright and red with cranberry, raspberry, tangy strawberry, along with notes of dusty earth, rhubarb, and some richer notes of light roast coffee grounds and roasted chestnut. On the palate, medium acidity with smooth, lightly dusty tannins, and a cool mix of fruit – from black cherry and plum to raspberry and strawberry rhubarb pie. The non-fruit elements are a lot of fun – there’s some spicy herbal tea, with roasted chestnut and cinnamon elements, and some rose petals and rhubarb. Lovely, fresh, will-please-all-palates kind of Willamette Pinot at a steal of a price. (89 points)

Italian wines for spooky season

Spooky season is here, and I love it. October is one of my favorite times of the year – the cool nights, changing leaves, planning out the Halloween festivities with friends and family. I spent Saturday hiking, climbing, and checking out the fall foliage in Shenandoah National Park. On Sunday, I got some pumpkins, trick-or-treater candy, and braised a pork shoulder.

To fit with the autumnal vibes, I’ve had the pleasure of tasting through some warm, savory, fall-friendly wines from Italy. The wines of Amarone really hit the spot with cooler weather, braised meats, and gatherings of family and friends, and I have a few this week that would be perfect for such occasions. These Veneto blends of Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes are some of my favorites for colder weather sipping. I recently took a deep dive into the wines of a producer that is new to me, Brigaldara. The Cesari family has owned this winery since 1928, and (from what I can tell) they make energetic, exciting expressions of their terroir. One of the things I love about this region is the variety of wines and appellations, allowing a producer to put out inexpensive, entry-level bottles for early consumption (Valpolicella DOC) all the way up to the age-worthy big boys.

With the holidays coming up soon, it’s also a great time to stock up on sparkling wines. Champagne is my go-to, but my radar is always searching for classic method sparkling wines that offer value, personality, and speak to their terroir. And in this category, Trentodoc wines excel. Made from high-elevation vineyards at the foot of the Dolomites in northern Italy, these wines provide precision, mineral intensity, crunchy fruits, and lots of pleasure for pretty much any sparkling wine drinker.

And I have a delightful Chianti from Tenuta Perano to round things out. These wines were received as samples the Brigaldara wines were tasted single blind while the others were tasted sighted.

2019 Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
$33
Light purple color. Juicy and ripe on the nose with rich black cherries and plum sauce, laced with menthol, cinnamon, gingerbread, with black tea, tobacco, and sage – deep and inviting. Smooth tannins frame the wine well, with medium acidity, and a juicy, dark stage of black cherries, plum sauce, and raspberries. The fruit blends well with tones of dark chocolate, coffee grounds, magic marker, anise, black pepper, black tea. Lovely stuff that needs some air, braised meat, and a cold night to show its best. Should age really nicely, too, but delicious young. Sangiovese and Merlot aged two years in oak. (90 points) 

2022 Brigaldara Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella
$18
Medium ruby color. Aromas pop with mulled cherries and strawberries, along with clay, black pepper, some sweet coffee, charcoal, along with roses and violets, all sorts of herbs. The palate is fresh and fun with medium-tannins and vibrant acidity. The fruit exemplifies in the form of mulled plums, spiced cranberry relish, with sour cherries. Notes of anise, black pepper, sweet coffee, graphite, some inky, stony vibes. A delightful introduction to this region and this producer, and this is a serious value. (88 points)

2021 Brigaldara Valpolicella Superiore Case Vecie - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
$34

Bright ruby color. Spicy aromatic display with tart cranberry relish, crushed raspberry, strawberry jam, mixed with smoky, earthy, peppery, saucy vibes – but it still feels fresh and lively. The palate is full and suave with fresh acidity and smooth tannins, and flavors of red currant and cherry jams, saucy strawberries. The fruit mixes with spices of pepper, tobacco, floral potpourri, paprika, savory broth, balsamic, and coffee grounds. Yet despite these deep, saucy flavors, it’s so fresh and vibrant. (89 points)

2017 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
$100
Deep ruby color. The nose is excitingly spicy with red currants, raspberries, tangy strawberries, tossed expertly with tones of leather, smoky earth, tobacco, sage, some sauteed mushrooms. The palate has a dusty structure with fresh acidity and a deep but lively appeal, with flavors of mulled cherries, saucy plums, and raspberry jam. The fruit mixes with elements of tar, earth, black pepper, and a sautee of mushrooms and bell pepper, add in some leather and clove. This should age nicely! A blend of 39% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, and 31% Rondinella. From a high elevation single vineyard, this is a special, delicious Amarone. (92 points)

2018 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Cavolo - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
$65
Juicy light purple color. I love the smoky and meaty tones on the nose, interwoven with savory broth and spicy herbal tones and earth, along with black cherries and red currant compote. The palate is deep and full, zesty acidity, grippy but fine-edged tannins, and the balance is on point. Tangy red and black cherries abound, accented by charcoal, anise, tar, earth, green herbs, black pepper, some leathery tones. A lot going on here, and this will age really well. Warm, inviting, delicious. 59% Corvina, 21% Corvinone 21%, 17% Rondinella, 3% other varieties, aged two years and small oak and an additional year in larger oak barrels. (90 points) 

2020 Brigaldara Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore
$34
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a warm, vibrant, spicy appeal, with black cherries and cranberry relish, plum sauce, with tones of tobacco, clove, cedar, fallen leaves, and dried flower petals. The palate has a rich, suave appeal with a full body and lively acidity. The saucy plums and tangy blackberry fruit is mixed with so many nuances of spice, tobacco, black pepper, menthol, dill. Really cool and nuanced with a tart, vibrant, lively but long-aging appeal. (91 points)

2013 Cantina di Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella San Floriano Riserva - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
$200
Deep ruby color. A saucy mix of spiced cranberry sauce, red and black plums and currants, along with tones of tobacco, pine resin, menthol, sage, lots of rose and violet petals and sage. Smooth, deep, vibrant and balanced on the palate with dusty-structured tannins and flavors of cranberry and raspberry jams, red and black currants, along with a complex host of savory, earthy, spicy, herbal tones. The freshness and nuance offer a lot to parse through, and this will continue to age well for a long time. (93 points)

N.V. Cesarini Sforza Trentodoc Brut Rosé Tridentum - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Trento
$26

Pretty pink color. The nose exudes chalk dust and crushed limestone, along with lemon, quince, red apple peel, along with watermelon, daisies, dandelion, and honeysuckle. The palate is ripe and juicy with a pleasantly creamy depth and brisk acidity, infused with limestone and saline, lots of minerals. Balanced well, light and zippy but plenty of depth, with flavors of yellow apples, lemon, tangerine, backed up with light toast, biscuits, honey, and almond skin. Intriguing and delicious. Chardonnay with 15% Pinot Noir, grown in vineyards up to 2,100 feet, aged 24 months on the lees. (90 points)

2018 Endrizzi Trentodoc Riserva Brut Pian Castello - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino, Trentodoc
$28
Light salmon color. Bright and chalky on the palate with tangy red apples, strawberries, crunchy white cherries, mixed with flinty, chalky, salty vibes, along with honeysuckle, floral perfume, slight mint. Crisp acidity and fine bubbles, this sparkler has a brisk and salty appeal with balanced sugar and flavors of yellow and red apples, raspberries. The notes of minerals, oyster shells, daisies, basil, and oregano add complexity. A focused, crunchy, brisk sparkling wine that punches about its weight. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir aged 60 months on the lees. (91 points)

Wine Reviews: Italian Grab Bag

I’ve been at home for 19 weeks now, and the travel lust is in full swing. Unfortunately, here in the U.S. we are still in the middle of the first pandemic wave, and things look worse and worse these days. So, this week, to satiate my desire for travel and cheery myself up, I’m visiting a range of Italian wines.

The estate wines of Alois Lageder, in Italy’s Dolomiti region, are organic and biodynamic and really exciting. But I was pleasantly surprised to taste the quality and vibrancy in their Terra Alpina wines, which are sourced from different growers in the region. For the price, these wines offer this sense of regional typicity, depth, and “realness.”

I also tasted an impressive Super Tuscan at an entry-level price from Tenuta di Arceno, and some crushable Veneto wines from Pasqua. Lastly, Zenato’s Amarone makes me long for autumnal weather and slow-cooked meats.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Terra Alpina – Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. The nose gushes with kiwi, lime and green melon, mixed with spicy herbs, verbena, talc notes. Plush, medium-bodied, a pretty texture with racy acidity. Ripe melon meets zippy kiwi and lime fruit, which is doused in minerals, chalk, limestone notes. Floral, herbal elements add complexity. This is racy, bright, complex stuff, and a serious value. (90 points)

2019 Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco Terra Alpina – Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
SRP: $15
Light straw color. Aromas of lemon and kiwi, spiced tea, ginger, sea salt and mint. On the palate, this has a bright, chalky, dusty feel with lots of energy and juicy, tangy fruit (white peach, kiwi, lime). Notes of spiced tea and ginger meet chalk, mineral and quinine notes. Brisk but shows depth and value. (89 points)

2016 Tenuta di Arceno Il Fauno Di Arcanum – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $35
Medium purple color. Aromas of juicy plums, dark currants, with smoky earth, tobacco, mint chocolate chip and spiced black tea. Full-bodied, structured but velvety, fresh acidity, this is balanced very nicely. Tangy red and black currants and cherries mixed with complex notes of spiced coffee, earth, tar, pepper and coffee grounds. This is a bright but complex Super Tuscan that offers a lot of what I look for in these wines at a very reasonable price. Could use air or a year or two. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot aged 12 months in French oak. (90 points)

2018 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Bianco – Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Brisk notes of honeysuckle and lilies, celery seed and mint, over lemon and kiwi fruit. Zippy and crisp on the palate with fresh acidity, and flavors of lemons, green apples and white peach. There’s a flinty, salty undertone that makes this seafood and salad-friendly. Brisk yet some moderate creamy depth with floral perfume to round out the finish. Would be a great BTG pour at a seafood spot. All Garganega. (87 points)

2017 Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Rosso – Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $16
Bright purple color. Aromas of plums, sweet currant jam, with spicy tobacco, cloves, coffee and violets. Smooth and chewy texture on the palate with medium/low acidity, and a velvety feel with plums, raspberry and currant jams. Notes of smoky, resiny, herbal tones with clove. Accessible and fun but has some complexity, too. Merlot, Corvina and Croatina. (87 points)

2015 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
SRP: $60
Deep ruby color. Aromas of juicy raspberry, sweet cherries, raisins, sweet roses, vanilla, cocoa and earth. Full-bodied, big and burly at 16.5%, with chewy tannins and medium acidity, a rich and suave feel. Pretty cherries, plum sauce, raisins, kirsch, mixed with elements of cocoa, violets, clove, coffee. Underlying charcoal, mineral and earth vibes. Rich and juicy but shows freshness and complexity. Accessible now but bury for five or eight years and this should show some interesting development. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Italy

This week, I’m focusing on some white and red wines from Italy.

Over the past few weeks, I’ve received a few wines from Veneto, Sicily and Piedmont. Sicilian whites really hit the spot for me pretty frequently, with their bright, tropical aesthetic. While some of the Veneto reds pair well with wintertime and rich, hearty dishes.

Most of these wines cost around $20, so there are some serious bargains in this report.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites

2018 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico

SRP: $20

Light yellow color. Aromas of peaches and papayas, topped in floral perfume, chalk, wild herbs and white tea. Bright acidity, but deep texture, lovely balance. Vibrant lemon, lime and peach fruit mixed with white tea, sliced cucumber, and lots of floral perfume. Another solid vintage of this reliably good and worthwhile wine. Garganega and 15% Trebbiano from estate hillside vineyards. (89 points)

2018 Azienda Agricola F. Tornatore Sicilia Etna Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $20
Deep yellow color. Bursting nose of peaches, lemon and apricot, along with tons of white and yellow flowers, some sea salt, white pepper. Fleshy and plump with lemon curd and pineapple fruit. It has a lively, salty, limestoney feel, too, which is really attractive. Lots of yellow flowers, some wild herbs. Balanced really well, this is such a seafood and salad-friendly wine that brings solid complexity for the price. This is made from 100% Carricante grown on the northern slopes of Mt. Etna (1,800 to 2,300 feet). 12.5% alcohol. (89 points)

2018 Tasca D'Almerita Tenuta Whitaker Grillo Mozia - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia IGT
SRP: $22
Medium yellow color. The nose bursts with pineapple, green apples, key lime pie, with sea salt, honeycomb and lots of white and yellow flowers. Pleasant texture, medium-bodied, yet bright acidity. Lots of tropical goodness (cantaloupe, pineapple, limes) along with honeysuckle, daisies and sea salt. Juicy and tropical but fresh, too. Not “simple,” but simply pleasant; such a seafood bistro kinda wine. (88 points)

2018 Tasca D'Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Didyme - Italy, Sicily, Salina IGT
SRP: $22
Medium yellow. The aromas pop with kiwi, papaya, lychee, with white flowers, wild herbs, notes of pickling spices. Medium-bodied, has a pleasantly plump texture but the bright acidity makes it vibrant. Juicy and tropical with pineapple, lychee and papaya fruit. Complex notes of wildflowers and spices (honeysuckle, dandelion, white pepper). There’s a salty, chalky, mineral combo on the finish that is very nice. Impressive stuff. All Malvasia di Lipari, no maloactic fermentation, all stainless steel. (89 points)

Reds

2018 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Valpolicella Nanfré - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Peppery, spicy nose with clove, bay leaf and rose hips, accenting the tangy red currant and wild cherry fruit. Fresh and accessible on the palate with light tannins on a medium-bodied frame. Cranberry sauce, red currant compote, the fruit meets with rose petals, clove, some bouillon cubes, chewing tobacco. This is really pleasant, well-integrated, easy-drinking but well-done. Great bistro, pizza wine, that sports a lot of value. 70% Corvina, 30% Rondinella, aged four to six months in stainless steel, 12.5% alcohol. (88 points)

2017 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore Monti Garbi - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore
SRP: $22
Deep ruby color. Nose has a deep core of black currants and roasted digs, with some warm clay, smoky earth, clove notes. Suave and rich on the palate, moderate tannins, medium acidity helps keep it lively. Tart black currants and roasted fig fruit mixes well with leathery, smoky, earthy, coffee tones. Warm and inviting stuff, but this could use a year or two to express itself more. 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, and a combined 10% Croatina and Oseleta, aged 12 months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Selezione Antonio Castagnedi - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

SRP: $47

The nose shows a solid core of blackberry, currant compote, roasted digs, along with campfire smoke, dark chocolate shavings, anise cookies. Full-bodied but suave on the palate, with structured tannins, moderating acidity that keeps it away from being too heavy. The currant and fig compote mixes with lots of anise, coffee, scorched earth, violet petals, clove, sweet toffee and vanilla. This should age nicely over the next decade. 70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina, 5% Oseleta, aged two years in French oak. (90 points)

2015 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $20
Bright purple color. The nose shows smoky earth, anise, cocoa, on top of roasted figs and plum sauce. Medium+ bodied, smooth and velvety tannins, and refreshing acidity. Flavors of tangy currants, black cherries, refreshing fruit but plenty of it. Laced with violets, cigar box, anise, black pepper and cocoa. Another solid vintage of this perennial bargain. A blend of Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Sangiovese, aged 15 months in old oak. (89 points)

2017 Renato Ratti Langhe Nebbiolo Ochetti - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Nose shows deep cherries and plums with a pleasantly smoky, earthy element, along with mushroom and rose petals. Nice grip on the palate, fresh acid, the balance is on point, and lots of black cherry and tart red currant fruit. Lots of rose petals, herbal tea, along with beefy, saucy, mushroom notes. Fun fruit, spicy and floral complexities. This opens up a lot with air, and could use some time. What a whole lotta Nebbiolo goodness for 25 bucks. From vineyards in Monteu Roero, aged 10 months in old Slavonian oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Year-End Round-Up

Happy holidays, wine-lovers! I sure hope your holidays are filled with friends, family, fun, and plenty of good wine. As the year wraps up, I have a bunch of wines that didn’t fit neatly into a particular category, so I wanted to include them in my final grab bag report of 2018. And this one has some goodies.

Starting with Argentina’s Domaine Bousquet: Their vineyards, in the Andes foothills appellation of Tupungato, sit in gravelly, sandy soils at about 4,000 feet in elevation. The wines have lots of juicy fruit but the freshness is really attractive, and the balance and depth for their prices is quite impressive.

Ferraton Père & Fils deliver yet again with a pair of sub-$20 Rhone blends, a white and a red, which offer up a lot of class and style in this price point. At $30, M. Chapoutier’s new vintage of the Occultum Lapidem red blend is insanely good, deep, and cellar-worthy.

Italy’s Abruzzi region has a few value-friendly wines in this report, as well as an Amarone that would pair perfectly with a snowstorm and a campfire. Portugal’s Douro provides a few tasty red blends in this report, while I’ve included three American reds from Inconceivable. Lastly, Troon, from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, comes through again with an excellent pair of Tannat-based reds. They excel with all sorts of grapes and wines, and I loved these reds for their uniquely fresh, crunchy, lip-smacking appeal.

All of these wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP $18
Medium yellow color. Nose shows honey, peanut brittle, almond and ginger on top of yellow apples and apricots. Plump and rich texturally, but zesty acidity, and the balance is quite nice. Juicy apples and apricot mixed with graham cracker, almond, honeyed white tea, with salty, floral tones, too. Rich but fresh, a nice combination of elements here, this is delicious and good for the price. (88 points)

2017 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Rich purple color. Deep and saucy but bright with spiced cranberry sauce, fig paste, smoky blackberries, with pipe tobacco, charcoal pit, and sweet, spiced black tea – lots going on here. Rich texture, velvety tannins, the acidity is vibrant. Tangy black cherries, plum, cranberry jam, with lots of herbal, earthy, spicy elements, an underlying mineral, floral aesthetic. Toffee and cocoa notes woven in nicely. Lots on offer here, but it’s still fresh, fun, and easy-drinking style for consumption over the next few years. Includes 5% apiece of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, aged 10 months in French oak. (90 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Blanc Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Juicy peaches and guava, some lemon crème pie, sea salt and honey. Juicy, plump, waxy texture but fresh acidity. Yellow apples, peaches, guava, the fruit is topped in flowers, honey, hay, sea salt. All elements woven in quite nicely, and there’s a delicious mineral kick on the zesty finish. A blend of Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Solid value, loving the freshness. (88 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Villages Rouge Plan de Dieu - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Super spicy on the nose, with sage, menthol, black pepper, bay leaf, scorched earth, over top of raspberries and black cherries. Suave and velvety on the palate, medium/full-bodied with moderating acidity. Raspberries, black cherries, plum sauce, the fruit is mixed with anise, pepper, earth and leather. Lots of interesting flavors here, this is really nicely done for the price. 65 % Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. (88 points)

2016 M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Nose of concentrated black currants and dark plums, mixed with lots of violets, menthol, anise, grilled herbs, some leather and pepper, too. Serious grip from the tannins but the acidity is lovely and balancing, and the black fruit is dark and deep but crunchy. Lots of black pepper, sage, mint, coffee anise, this is packed with depth and flavor but stays fresh. This has the stuffing to age and improve for at least a decade. 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 20% Carignan from vines averaging 60 years old. (92 points)

2017 Fattoria La Valentina Pecorino - Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi IGT
SRP: $16
Deep yellow color. Aromas of pineapple, lemon, papaya, with some flowers and honey. Juicy and plump on the palate with crisp acidity, and flavors of pineapple, apricot and lemon cake. Notes of sea salt, minerals, whipped honey and almond, this is rich and deep but stays lively and crisp, too. Complexity is impressive. All stainless steel. (89 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $14
Rich purple color. Plump and juicy on the palate with plump black cherries, cassis, coffee, vanilla. Chewy texture on the palate with medium/light tannins and moderating acidity. Juicy black cherries, plums, topped in smoke, earth, coffee and vanilla. Juicy, accessible, fun stuff. Mostly stainless steel with some Slavonian oak. (86 points)

2015 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Spelt - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
SRP: $21
Light purple color. Aromas of dark cherries, plums, blackberry, along with earthy, dark flower petals, clove, some leathery notes. Smooth texture on the palate, dusty tannins with moderating acidity, fresh black cherries and plums abound. I get notes of smoky charcoal, leather, mint, clove and earth. Some floral and savory elements on the finish. This is in a good place now but could do well with a few more years. Aged 16 months in Slavonian oak. (90 points)

2013 Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. The nose shows lots of roasted plums and figs, cassis, violets, and some cool incense, coffee, earth and peppery notes. Full and rich, grippy but not too heavy or harsh, with some medium acidity for balance. Suave but tart black cherries, raisings and roasted figs, backed up with black licorice, coffee, cedar and dark chocolate. Impressive depth, but not heavy, this shows some interesting earthy, savory elements on the finish as well. Cellar-worthy but surprisingly accessible in its youth. 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Corvinone and 5% Negrara. (90 points)

2016 Dow Douro Reserva Vale do Bomfim - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $13
Deep purple color. Nose is deep and dark with roasted plums, blackberries, violets, earth, warm black tea. Juicy on the palate, a medium/full-bodied frame with velvety tannins and lively acidity. Dark, saucy fruit (plums and black cherries) mixed with dark chocolate, violets, loamy earth, charcoal. Warm, lovely, dark and earthy but vibrant, this is so good at this price point. (88 points)

2015 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro Pombal do Vesuvio - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $28
Rich purple color. Nose shows lots of plums, black cherries and blackberries, topped in vanilla, cocoa, but also soy and spicy herbs. The palate shows structured tannins (not harsh), moderating acidity, and lots of tangy black cherries and cassis. Quite complex in terms of the pepper, earth, sage, smoky charcoal and mineral tones. Showing well now but will improve over the next few years. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Naciona and Tinta Amarela, aged 10 months in French oak. (89 points)

2015 Inconceivable Wines Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Medium ruby color. Bright red and juicy black cherries, along with sweet raspberry, cola, with cocoa, mint and sweet tobacco. Juicy but really fresh on the palate, with vibrant acidity and smooth, light tannins. Red cherries and juicy plums, tangy but plump fruit, mixed in with notes of roasted chestnut, mint, eucalyptus, cola and roses. A lot going on here for the price. Aged 10 months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Inconceivable Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose shows tangy black cherries and juicy plums, I get a nice mix of earth, cocoa, cedar and eucalyptus. Full-bodied (14.5%) with slightly chewy tannins and medium acidity. Tangy black currants and cherries, nice zip to the fruit. Mixed in with tobacco, earth, charcoal and some moderate cocoa and cedar. Fun stuff, accessible but nice complexity as well. Includes some Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in a mix of used and new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Inconceivable Wines Red - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $25
Light purple color. Nose boasts juicy plums and sweet black cherries, along with a nice mix of tobacco, smoky charcoal, pepper and earth. Full-bodied and smooth, light grip to the tannins, not harsh but nice structure, medium acidity, all balanced quite well. Plums, blackberries and tart black cherries mix with tobacco, pepper, leather, soy, some cocoa and vanilla. Complexity and balance is really impressive at this price point. Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Viognier. (90 points)

2016 Troon Vineyard Tannat - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Tart but deep on the nose, with tangy black cherries, dark plums, and loaded with lavender, violets, roses, inky and coffee and clove. Full-bodied with some serious grip to the tannins, but moderated by lovely acidity. Tart black cherries, cassis, lovely fruit mixed with complex notes of flowers, potpourri, clove, anise, rocky earth. Long, full, complex, I’m stoked to see what this does with five years or so in the cellar. Aged 18 months in mature oak. (90 points)
2016 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Bright purple color. Aromas of tart blackberries, sour cherries, black currant, raspberry, such bright and lively fruit mixed in with sage, violets, clove, warm leather and herbs. Crisp and lively acidity from start to finish on the palate, with velvety tannins and vibrant red and black fruit (currants, plums, raspberries), laced with savory herbs, lots of violets and floral potpourri. Deep earthy, mineral element here, too. Vibrant and delicious now but I’d be interested in what this does over the next few years. Tannat and Malbec, co-fermented, aged 18 months in old oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Italian Grab Bag

The Sudtirol appellation of Alto Adige is home to some seriously good Pinot Grigio.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

A lot of wine-lovers are skeptical about Pinot Grigio, and rightly so. All of us have been thoroughly bored by insipid Pinot Grigios from various Northern Italian regions. But, like every large production category of wines, there are producers taking it seriously. For around $20, producers in Alto Adige are crafting some really bright and compelling wines —three such wines from the 2014 vintage appear in this report.

Add in an exciting Soave Classico for $20, the ever-reliable Veronese red blend Palazzo Della Torre, and a few others, and you have yourself a good spread of Italian bottles.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2014 St. Pauls Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $24
Pale straw color. A bit more tropical aromatics here (papaya, guava) on top of limes, fresh flowers and salty air. Waxy feel on the palate but precise acid. Orange peel and papaya flavors, drizzled with lime, topped with honey and peanut shells. An underlying sense of chalk, jetty rocks and mineral. (87 points)

2014 Cantina Produttori Bolzano Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $17
Deeper straw color. Aromas of lime pith, green apple peel, cut flower stems, hints of cucumber water. Bold presence on the palate with a creamy texture but the acid screams across the palate, this is a very lip-smacking white but by no means lean. Crunchy green fruit, also very chalky and smoky with white tea, chamomile and cucumber. Long, zesty finish with lingering sea salt and lemon meringue. Amazing stuff for the price. (89 points)

2014 Muri-Gries Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $19
Pale straw color. Smells of clean laundry, bright limes, kiwi, green apple, breezy air and white flowers. Crisp and clean on the palate but a nice silky mouthfeel. Bright and zesty with nuanced kiwi, tangerine and lime fruits. Notes of quinine, white tea, saline and a smoky-mineral touch. Bright and zesty but enough texture and structure to make it pop on the palate. Medium-long finish. Exciting, versatile stuff. (88 points)

2014 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $20
Medium yellow color. Refreshing and floral on the nose, I get cut flower stems, honeysuckle, crusty sea salt, lemon peel, green pears. Bright acid on the palate, a very clean and precise wine with a moderate amount of creaminess. Green pears and lemon/lime fruit abound. So delightfully gluggable but I’m impressed with the complexity. Lots of minerals, chalk, floral and spice potpourri, almond skin. Lovely stuff that is sure to please all kinds of palates (and wallets). 85% Garganega and 15% Trebbiano, 12% alcohol. (88 points)

2012 Inconceivable Wines Terre Siciliane IGT - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane IGT
SRP: $25
Juicy ruby color. Smell of rich red berries and plums along with roasted earth, baking spices and tobacco. Medium-full bodied with some refreshing tartness and legit structure from the tannins, which all combines for a chewy but tangy feel. Tart black cherries and red currants mix with elements of green coffee, raspberry tea, sweet cocoa and some dusty, earthy accents. Impressive structure but also straight-up fun and tasted. A bit modern with its oak and velvety feel but plenty of savory Sicilian elements, too. 50% Nero d'Avola, 30% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Frappato, aged 18 months in half French, half American oak. (88 points)

2011 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT
SRP: $23
Bright ruby color. Aromatic right away with juicy black and red currants and plums, the fruit is tart but juicy and I get an interesting mix of eucalyptus, smoke, cocoa powder and balsamic aromas as well, and it all works together very well. Juicy red and black fruit on the palate, this takes a smooth approach with a dusty-fine tannic structure and medium-plus acid. Lots of spice elements to unpack (pepper, rhubarb, balsamic) with some sweeter notes of caramel and coffee. Always reliable, tasty and good for the money. 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese. Great value, as is usually the case with this wine. (88 points)

2010 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
SRP: $85
A compact wine out of the bottle, but air and time coax out all sorts of deep, roasted, dark essences — blackberry-currant jam, dark chocolate shavings, dried violets, cocoa powder. On the palate, this is a full and surly wine with tight-fisted concentration and strong dark fruit (roasted plums, tart black currants, dense blackberry). Sturdy tannins, medium-low acid, a bold and demanding presence on the palate. Despite the richness it maintains a velvety quality that is really attractive. I get dark chocolate and roasted nut notes along with some violets, smoke and tilled up soil. A long, warm finish, rich but so smooth. It’s very impressive at this young age, but the realization of its full quality is a decade away. 90% Corvina, 5% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta, 15.9% alcohol. (90 points)

<85 points
2014 Criterion Collection Friuli Grave Pinot Grigio - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Grave
SRP: $11
Pale yellow color. Nose of juicy white peaches, kiwi and pineapple, some baby’s breath. Medium-light bodied with a pleasantly creamy texture, medium-low acid. Yellow apple, sliced peaches, some mango, but not much else. Simple, pleasant, uncomplicated. (83 points)

2011 Criterion Collection Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $14
Medium ruby color. Tart currants, cranberry sauce, rose hips and toast on the nose. Tart acid, light tannins, a bit crunchy and overly tart but shows a nice range of red fruits (red currants, Thanksgiving cranberry sauce) backed up with notes of tobacco, toasted nut and soil. Perfectly pleasant and shows well for the price, a simple wine to drink in the near term. (83 points)

Acinum — Good Intro to Wines of the Veneto

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Vias Imports — a big player in the U.S. when it comes to Italian imports — has just launched its own label, Acinum. Hitting the nationwide market this month, these wines are solid, value-driven examples of the classic Veneto wines: Prosecco, Soave Classico, Valpolicella and Amarone.

The wines are a result of collaboration between the chairman of Vias Imports, Fabrizio Pedrolli, grower and oenologist Enrico Paternoster. For those looking for an introduction to the wines of the Veneto, these widely-available bottles would be a good and inexpensive place to start.

These bottles were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Acinum Prosecco - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco

SRP: $11

Pale straw color. Bright and floral nose with a nice mix of lemon-lime and richer peach and guava aromas. Refreshingly crisp and quite dry but plenty of fresh fruit: peaches, lime, kiwi, yellow apple. Add in some hints of honeysuckle, lilies and a slight saline and seashell aspect. A brighter and crisper wine than a lot of Proseccos at this price point that can take the sweet flower and canned peach approach. Impressive for the price. (86 points)

2014 Acinum Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico

SRP: $11

Light yellow color. Bright nose of clean laundry, floral perfume and a mix of kiwi and yellow and green apples. Juicy kiwi, peach and apples on a medium-bodied frame. Moderate acid keeps it all clean, some creaminess adds texture. I get some notes of white tea and floral perfume, hints of saline as well. Bright, clean, refreshing, well-balanced. Great for the price. (85 points)

2014 Acinum Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella

SRP: $16

Pale ruby color. Smells of tart red apples, wild strawberries, some darker cherry notes, rose petals and green coffee. Medium-bodied with some refreshing acidity, medium tannin but a tiny bit astringent. Tart red apples, strawberries and cherries mixed in with notes of cedar, clove and coffee. Ready to drink but has some fun flavors and structure to offer. (85 points)

2013 Acinum Ripasso della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Ripasso della Valpolicella

SRP: $23

Medium ruby color. Rich red and black fruits on the nose, cherries, plums and currants, mixed in with richer, darker elements of prunes and fig paste, roses, violets and potting soil. Full-bodied, tannins have plenty of structure but a velvety presence on the palate. Medium-low acid, the plum fruit is dark and rich yet crunchy around the edges, plenty of coffee, pipe tobacco, clove, anise cookie and cedar shavings. Not super complex but quite solid stuff. Best with plenty of air or a year or two in the cellar. (87 points)

2012 Acinum Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

SRP: $55

Dark ruby color. Saucy and rich on the nose, with dense black cherries and plum fruit, a couple waves of sweet mocha, clove, dark chocolate shavings and rich dark soil. Rich and full but maintains a juicy, chewy approach. Dark plums and cherries, the fruit is rich but laced with savory elements. I get pine sap, espresso, charcoal pit, dark chocolate, clove, spearmint chewing tobacco, lots of complex flavors underneath waiting to come out. (89 points)