Maidenstoen – Incredible Single-Vineyard Rieslings from California’s Central Coast

Michael Callahan has a thing for Riesling — an obsession, perhaps. But, as a Riesling-lover in general, and a big fan of California Riesling, I find it refreshing.

Michael, who works at Chamisal Vineyards, has scoured various Central Coast sites for Riesling , and has found some real beauties. Under his Maidenstoen label (which he started in 2013) Michael bottles single-vineyard Rieslings that speak clearly of their place. He seems to have set a mission with these wines: to pay homage to Riesling’s importance in the history of California wine, and to make sure Cali Riesling has a viable future.

“Although tastes change and financial decisions must be made, it is important to have advocates in order to keep some pieces of what California’s winegrowing history is,” Michael told me. “It is impossible to contribute to the greater world of wine without an understanding of our history and interpreting what is capable from our older vineyards. The story of California wine should be more than just Cabernet or whatever is selling for the most dollars.”

I say: Amen!

Even though dry Riesling is popular with consumers, Michael laments how some older Riesling vineyards in California have been pulled out or grafted to other varieties. And the price that growers can fetch for their Riesling make it a difficult endeavor. But lovers of dry Riesling have a lot to get excited about when it comes to California. Though few and far between, there are some thrilling Rieslings out there. And (like these wines that cost $22 a pop), the quality to price ratio can be incredibly high.

Michael recently sent me three of his 2016 Rieslings, sourced from select vineyards in Sta. Rita Hills, Monterey and Edna Valley. My notes on these exceptional wines are below.

2016 Maidenstoen Wines Riesling Lafond Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

$22

Light gold color. Nose shows lime, apricot, lemon candle, and some chalky, oyster she and sea salt notes, mixed with some spicy/floral notes. Creamy presence on the palate, but lovely focus and acidity. Orange zest, pineapple and lime fruit is topped in mineral dust, stony-flinty elements, spiced white tea. I get some wax and honeycomb too, but the wine stays focused and bright throughout. Gorgeous, deep, complex, age-worthy stuff. Sta. Rita Hills Riesling is rare, but this site contains some vines dating back to 1971! (94 points)

2016 Maidenstoen Wines Riesling Coast View Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Monterey County

$22

Pretty gold color. Lovely aromas of apricot, orange, lime zest, waves of white flowers, chalky and ocean spray notes – rocky minerals and mountain stream, too. Plump texture but such mouth-watering acidity, the balance is lovely. Tart lime, apricot, airy and fresh and floral with honeysuckle and dandelion. Some mineral notes, limestone, that exquisite Riesling minerality and vibrancy, with a chalky, floral finish.  An exceptional California Riesling and absolutely delicious. From a 2,200-foot elevation vineyard on terraced rows, planted in decomposed granite soils. (93 points)

2016 Maidenstoen Wines Riesling Oliver's Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

$22

Light yellow color. The nose shows sea salt, ginger, gorgeous lemon-lime and kiwi, yellow flowers, lots going on aromatically. Crisp acidity on the palate, such focus, but the fruit is rich and juicy (guava, kiwi, drizzled in lime). Brisk notes of mineral and chalk dust combine well with deep notes of honey and white tea. A long finish with stony mineral elements. Gorgeous depth but such freshness, too. From a clay soil vineyard six miles from the coast. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Tasting Some 2013 California Pinot Noir

This post first appeared in the daily wine blog Terroirist.

I never tire of tasting California Pinot Noir. Since my last tasting report published in May, I’ve tasted a few newly-released Pinots from across the state. From the $15 multi-regional blends to the $60 100% new oak bottlings, it’s always fun and educational to explore what’s happening with Cali Pinot.

In this batch, I especially liked the two Masút Pinots, which were the first wines I’ve tasted from the relatively new Mendocino American Viticultural Area (AVA) of Eagle Peak. If these wines are any indication of what’s coming out of this region, I can’t wait to taste more.

The wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2013 Tolosa Winery Pinot Noir Estate “Clonal Select” - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $45
Medium ruby colored. On the nose, I get juicy fruit (cherries, raspberries, red currants), some green herbs, peppery spice and light roast coffee. Medium tannic structure, brightness from the acid, the fruit (black cherries, red currants, some raspberry jam) is juicy but shows pleasant tartness. Slight toast and roasted chestnut, also some tobacco and black pepper. Maintains elegance despite youth and the finish is quite long and ends fresh. I’d like to taste this again in two or three years but showing well now, too. (89 points)

2013 J. Wilkes Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $26
Deep cherry colored. Dusty and smoky nose with rich red and black plums, some toasted nuts and sweet cola. Bold structure on the palate, full-bodied, medium acid. The black cherry and plum fruit is rich and ripe yet showing some tart edges, tossed with cola and toasted nuts. Forward, rich, a bit intense, although complexity comes in the form of charcoal, roses and tobacco leaf. A bold style, but still a lot to like. (87 points)

2013 Magnolia Court Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Super fruity nose: strawberry jam, cherry pie topping, black cherry soda, hints of pepper and coffee underneath. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, medium-low acid. Easy-drinking approach, light and slightly chewy. The red fruit is both sweet and tart at the same time, like raspberry and strawberry jam mixed with red apple peel wild cherries. Some toasted coffee on the finish. Fun, crowd-pleasing stuff. (85 points)

2013 Liberated Wine Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Monterey County
SRP: $20
Medium ruby colored. Tangy red fruits on the nose (currants, strawberries and cherries), a bright appeal but also some sweet cola, roses and clove. Medium-bodied, light tannins, tangy acid; Red and black cherries, some raspberry jam, tart red currants, a juicy approach with notes of clove, cedar and birch beer. Fun, tasty, juicy, shows a level of balance and freshness that is quite attractive. (86 points)

2014 Fess Parker Pinot Noir Parker Station - California, Central Coast
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Nose of strawberries, red cherries, red licorice and some coffee, sweet but fresh. Medium bodied with medium-light tannins, a bit of tang to the acid. Bright strawberries and cherries, mixed with roses and cola and cedar, woven together well. Fresh, juicy, red-fruit-driven, not too complex but a good drink-me-now Pinot for sure. A blend of fruit from Monterey, Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties. (85 points)

2013 Masút Pinot Noir Two Barrel Estate Vineyard - California, Mendocino County, Eagle Peak
SRP: $60
Medium-dark ruby color. Nose of deep black cherries, some raspberry and strawberry, too, deeply floral, with violets, also some vanilla cola and cedar. Medium-firm tannins, medium-plus acid, chewy yet pretty fruit (black and red cherries, some strawberry jam). Silky yet full, showing complex flavors of coffee, tobacco, dusty earth, sweet cola, dark chocolate and cedar shavings. Could use a few years, but quite approachable at this point. For 15 months in 100% new French oak, I’m impressed by its balance. (92 points)

2013 Masút Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard - California, Mendocino County, Eagle Peak
SRP: $40
Medium-deep ruby. Lovely, elegant aromatic approach: roses, lavender, lovely red currants and strawberries, some deep and rocky elements, earth and charcoal. Fresh acid on the palate, bright and elegant with dusty tannins and great balance. Tangy yet fleshy red berry fruit, pulls off the rich yet pretty appeal with ease. Complex loam, pipe tobacco and dried roses along with notes of cedar and cherry wood. Long finish. Beautiful, elegant stuff. Beautiful stuff, aged 15 months in 50% new oak. (93 points)

Tasting Report: California Chardonnay

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Since my last report on California Chardonnays, I’ve tasted through a group of interesting and exciting wines. The best hail from that beautiful Central Coast Chardonnay haven, the Santa Maria Valley, but I also found a few fun and inexpensive Chards that would please many a palate.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind. 

2013 Tolosa Winery Chardonnay Estate Edna Ranch - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $26
Light gold color. Nose of golden apples, yellow pears, orange rind, some chalky and salty elements back up against the nutshell and nougat. Full-bodied, creamy, medium acid, lots of yellow apples and pears, some juicy apricot and orange marmalade notes. Notes of toasted bagel, buttercream, vanilla and hazelnut, but stays lively and fresh despite the richness. This Chardonnay walks the line well. 35% new French oak barrels. (87 points)

2013 Cambria Chardonnay Katherine’s Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $22
Light gold color. On the nose I get butter, yellow apple and peaches, along with a nice mix of oranges and lemons. The palate shows some moderate acid and a full, creamy body. Yellow apples and peaches are glazed in honey and covered in chopped hazelnut and nougat. Toasted bread and butter on the finish, but also some bright floral and slight chalky notes. Not super complex, but good stuff, a lot of fun. Aged six months in 14% new oak. (86 points)

2012 Solomon Hills Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $45
Medium gold color. Bright and vibrant on the nose with white peach, green and yellow apples, some kiwi, while the fruit is touched with honeysuckle, baby’s breath and crushed chalk notes. Clean, tingling acid meets a creamy, moderately rich body. The white peach, glazed pear and tangy kiwi fruit is bright but rich. I love the chalk, oyster shell, candied ginger and lime zest elements to this wine. A vibrant and fruity Chardonnay, but also very clean. Just enough toasted nut and buttered, flaky biscuit notes, but they don’t come close to overwhelming the other elements. A beautiful wine, highly complex yet effortless in its balance. (92 points)

2013 J. Wilkes Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $20
Light gold color. Green and yellow apples on the nose, some richer notes of melon, white peach, white flowers and honeyed tea. Richly textured, a creamy wine but some medium acid. A bold presence of fruit (apricot, apple sauce, orange marmalade), some nutmeg, hazelnut and caramel corn elements, hints of white tea and honeysuckle as well. A richer style wine with lots of flavor yet stays relatively fresh. (87 points)

2012 Bien Nacido Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $45
Light gold color. Very nutty and toasty on the nose, nougat and crushed almond shells on top of yellow apples and apricot jam. Ripe, rich yellow apples and apricot fruit, acid comes in and cleans a lot of it up. Almonds, peanuts, nougat, vanilla drizzled with some lime. Add in some honeysuckle, lilies, chalk, quinine and white tea notes. A rich and forward wine but I like the depth, complexity and the lively acid to keep this interesting. Long, rich finish yet the acid keeps it refreshing on the palate. (90 points)

2013 Dierberg Chardonnay Dierberg Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $32
Light gold color. Nose shows yellow apple, juicy peaches, lime zest, some honeyed tea and light almond elements. A creamy, richness to the wine but the acid cuts through and jolts it to life. Peaches, yellow apples, some papaya, kiwi, lime drizzled on top. Honeyed notes, along with almond and spiced tea, but it stays juicy and tangy. A lasting sense of mineral and river rocks, clean and bright, chalk and seashells. Very complex, could show a lot to the patient. A wonderful blend of sunshiny fruit mixed with pure, mineral elegance. (92 points)

2013 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Jackson Estate - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $28
Medium gold color. Aromatically, we’re dealing with a high butter content, but it’s also very fresh with white and yellow floral tones, along with a fruit salad of yellow and green apples, apricot and pineapple. Full bodied and rich on the palate, almost oily, with medium-low acid. A high octane style with candied pecans, walnuts and cinnamon toast leading the way, backed up by baked pear and apple flavors, notes of honeycomb and lemon oil. Wow, I like plenty of big, toasty Chards, but you really need to love that style, in which case, buy this. If you hate that style, avoid this all costs. Aged nine months in 55% new French oak. (86 points)

2013 Oro Bello Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $20
Clear, light gold color. Aromatically, we’re dealing with some green melon, yellow apples, drizzled with a bit of lemon, underneath it all a sense of buttercream and almond shells. Moderate creaminess on the palate, medium acid, the yellow apple and apricot fruit is rich but accented by hints of lemon-lime. Almond, honeycomb, some toasted biscuits flavors. Moderate length, not very deep but a solid Chardonnay. Mostly oak-fermented, and aged in 30% new. (85 points)

2012 Franciscan Estate Chardonnay Cuvée Sauvage - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $40
Bright gold color. Great combination of bright lime, green apple and wildflowers with richer elements of bruised yellow apple, pineapple cake and toasted bread. Juicy but bold texture, medium acid. I get lots of yellow apple, apricot and yellow pear, a bit of lime juice mixed in. Lots of honey butter, toasted almond, hints of vanilla, spiced applesauce, this is quite oaky yet it maintains nuance and cleanliness throughout. Complex and attractive in spite, but also because of, it’s bold approach. Aged 14 months in 94% new French oak. (89 points)

2013 Jordan Vineyard & Winery Chardonnay Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $30
Pale gold color. Nose of salted lime, apple slices, brisk seashells and white flowers, some richer honeyed notes. Crispy, bright, lively acid, but a juicy and creamy body. Lemon curd, lime, apricot, green apples, rich notes of nougat and almond shell but it stays lively throughout. Tingly finish with sea salt and minerals. Really delicious stuff. 18% maloactic fermentation, this wine is aged six months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2013 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Grand Réserve - California
SRP: $22
Medium golden colored. Buttery, creamy and rich on the nose, with yellow apple, mango, some floral notes and peanut shell. Medium+ bodied palate, acid in moderate doses. Creamy yellow apple, peach, some green melon mixed in. Interesting combination of nougat, honey butter and olive oil with notes of peanut shell. A rich style, but some freshness keeps and still food-friendly. From Monterey and Santa Barbara, aged nine months in 30% new oak, mostly French, some American. (86 points)

2013 Tom Gore Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Central Coast
SRP: $13
Light gold color. Smells rich with, melon and yellow apple glazed with honey and apricot jam, some peanut shell and hazelnut. Creamy body, quite rich, but some medium acid to keep it in tempered. Rich yellow apple, apricot and peaches, but some lime drizzled on top. Honey, candied pecans, peanut shells. Rich and yummy, showing a bit of brightness though. (86 points)

2013 Magnolia Court Chardonnay - California, Central Coast
SRP: $15
Light gold color. Tropical mix on the nose (papaya, green apple, lime) some green herbs, a kind of cotton candy and clean laundry element. A bold, waxy presence on the palate, some moderate acid. The flavors of baked pear, green and yellow apples and apricots mix with notes of toasted nuts, marshmallow, but also some chalk and mountain stream elements. Rich and attractive yet held together well. Surprised for the price. (86 points)

Celebrating California Syrah

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The Rhone Rangers are here in the District for a big shindig this week, and I can’t wait. The grand tasting offers up a chance to taste some 80 Rhone-inspired wines from 20-plus producers. To get the celebration started early, this week we’re looking at a bunch of California Syrahs. 

I was very impressed with this whole lot (which includes wines from the 2009-2012 vintages). For my palate, the earthy, pepper, spicy Syrahs from Baker Lane took the cake, but I thoroughly enjoyed sipping all of these. 

The wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind. 
 
2011 Tolosa Winery Syrah Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $32
Bright purple colored. Smooth and focused aromas, blackberries and black cherries, fresh roses and violets, just the right amount of pepper and black olive. Fine but firm tannins, and the acid adds a whole lot of freshness to this wine. Mouthfilling but somehow sleek and easy to drink at the same time. I absolutely love the black olive and barbecue sauce notes, which match well with the blackberry and wild cherry fruit. Bright fruit but good amounts of earth, olive and bacon. (88 points)

2011 Tolosa Winery Syrah 1772 Edna Ranch - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $60
Medium purple color. Nose shows darker fruit (black cherries, dark currants, some red currant as well), laced with notes of cedar, cola and vanilla. Dusty tannins of medium strength, medium acid, a full mouthfeel. The fruit is rich and juicy (black cherries and currants, some red cherries), some cedar elements, along with complex notes of cocoa powder, anise, black pepper sauce, some root beer lingers onto the finish. A bold style, but shows restraint and freshness as well. Seems like it could use a year or two to unwind. (89 points)

2012 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $39
Medium purple color. Bold and plummy on the nose, some blackberries and black cherries mixed in, backed up by wet soil, tobacco leaf, black pepper and some coconut and root beer. Fleshy and forward on the palate, moderate tannins with a dusty feel, some medium-low acid. Flavors of black cherries, dark currants and juicy blackberries, the fruit is rich but shows a tart, crunchy appeal. Notes of loam, pepper, rainy day and tobacco mix with richer notes of toasted coconut, sweet teriyaki glaze and cedar shavings. Long, full, yet not overpowering. Could open up a lot over the next three or four years, or give it a good, long decant to coax out the nuances. All Syrah, 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2012 Clayhouse Vineyard Syrah - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $14
Deep ruby colored. Aromas of red cherries and black cherries, raspberries, mixed in with cola, root beer, violets and smoke. Bright on the palate with fine tannins and an easy-drinking approach. Red cherries and juicy blackberries, ripe and jammy but not overblown. I get other complex notes of cola and sweet plum cake mixing with elements of black olive, tobacco and tropical forest notes. Impressive value, ready to drink now. 86% Syrah, 12% Petite Sirah and 2% Viognier. (87 points)

2012 Clayhouse Syrah Estate Red Cedar Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $35
Deep ruby colored. Bold nose of blackberry jam, blueberry, dark plums, scorched earth, intense with incense sticks and smoke. Bold and chewy on the palate with medium-firm tannins, medium-low acid. The plum and black cherry fruit tastes juicy and fresh but shows a slightly roasted aspect. Vanilla and cola mix together with blueberry jam and mocha, slight tones of olive and iron linger long on the creamy finish. A big, plush wine that could probably use two years to settle down, or a long decant and a steak. 92% Syrah, 6% Petite Sirah and 2% Viognier. (88 points)

2012 KITÁ Syrah Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $60
Light purple color. Vibrant and bold on the nose. I get black cherries, currant jam, menthol, sweet cedar, violets, black pepper. Rich texture, medium-low acid, fleshy but quite firm tannins. Black currants, black cherries, some plum fruit, mixed together with menthol, eucalyptus, cedar, cherry cola, roasted coffee, black pepper. Chewy and long on the finish. Delicious, no doubt, but quite bold, perhaps it could use some time. Rich but the wine maintains this element of mystique that I find really attractive. All Syrah, aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

Northern Rhone spice and pepper meets Sonoma Coast juicy fruit, the result is delicious

2009 Baker Lane Syrah Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $45
Dark ruby colored. I love the aromatics here: the tart blueberry and black cherry fruit is intertwined with cracked pepper, red sprinkle pepper, barbecue spice rub and grilled steak smells. Medium-bodied, moderate tannins and acid balance each other out nicely. The fruit is tangy but fully ripe (blackberries, blueberries, black cherries), again those elements come out on the palate and take center stage: black pepper, beef jerky, spice rub and crispy bacon. The fruit is pure Sonoma Coast goodness, but this could be mistaken for a Northern Rhone Syrah. Long finish with notes of coffee and iron. Complex, delicious, beautiful stuff. 13.6% alcohol, this is co-fermented with 4% Viognier and aged 17 months in 20% new barrels. (93 points) 

 2010 Baker Lane Syrah Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $45
Medium-dark ruby colored. Smells of black and red currants, some tart blueberries, more violets but also some subtle pepper and spice elements. Juicy and ripe with grippy tannins and medium acid. Jammy but smooth on the fruit (blackberries, blueberries and dark currants). I really like the accents of cracked pepper, red pepper, soy glaze and bacon fat. Juicy, forward fruit but love the spicy complexity of this wine. Hints of mineral, coffee and iron as well. Plenty of time to let those complexities evolve, the wine has a lot of stuffing. 13% alcohol, this is co-fermented with 4% Viognier and aged 17 months in 20% new barrels. (92 points)

2012 Baker Lane Syrah Sonoma Coast Cuvée - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $30
Dark ruby. Lush and exotic on the nose, the blackberry and dark plum fruit mixes with violets, rose potpourri, bay leaf, cracked pepper and roasted coffee. Firm tannins, moderate acid, the wine is big but balanced and could be elegant with time in the cellar. Tart blueberries, black cherries and blackberries, the fruit is dusted with all sorts of spices (black pepper, dried red pepper, oregano, soy sauce). Notes of loam, violets, iron and roasted coffee as well. Tons of stuff going on here, but this needs two to four years to show its true potential. 2% Viognier in here, this spends 17 months in 10% new oak. (92 points)

California Pinot Noir Update: 2012s & 2013s

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Since my last look at California Pinot Noir, I’ve had the chance to taste through a wide range of interesting Pinots — and I found a few gems.

To generalize widely, the 2012s sport structured tannins and solid concentration, and while the ones I’ve tasted are full of very attractive fruits, they seem to need more time to come around. The 2013s seem a bit more approachable young, showing a slightly fresher approach but still plenty of concentration and body. 

For me, the Dierberg single-vineyard Pinots (made by Tyler Thomas) stood out from the pack for their elegance, beautiful fruit, and lip-smacking freshness. But I found quite a few other impressive Pinots in this crew, including some with a richer, chewier approach.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2012 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir Vintner’s Reserve - California
$20
Medium ruby colored. Smells of sweet cherries, raspberries, hints of darker fruit, some root beer, cola and red floral tones as well. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, nice tart aspect. Juicy raspberries, strawberries and black cherries along with cola, caramel, light roast coffee and some rose petal notes. Not incredibly complex, but tasty, bright, attractive especially if you like sweet cola with your Pinot. From Monterey and Santa Barbara Counties. (86 points)

2013 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir Grand Réserve - California, Central Coast, Monterey County
$26
Medium ruby color. Nose: sour cherries, tart red currants, roses, some coffee, red licorice candy. Medium+ bodied, medium tannins, moderate acid, this Pinot shows a fruit-forward aesthetic with black cherries, plums, currant jam. Mix in some cola, anise, rhubarb pie and sweet coffee and mocha. Finishes with notes of baked fruit and sweet cola. (86 points)

2013 Carmel Road Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Monterey
$22
Pale ruby colored. Bright wild strawberries and tangy red cherries on the nose, along with some rose hips and cherry cola. Juicy and fleshy on the palate with medium-low tannins and acid. Strawberries, sour cherries, sweet currants and some candied elements to the red fruit, but backed up by notes of rhubarb pie. Sweet cola and toffee linger onto the finish. Simple, pleasant, fun for the price but nothing serious. (85 points)

Spicy, fresh, delicious, worth ever dollar.

2012 Wrath Pinot Noir Ex Vite - California, Central Coast, Monterey
$38
Medium ruby color. Lively, refreshing nose of tangy strawberries and red currants, notes of bay leaf, tobacco, rhubarb and roses. Very bright and fresh on the nose but lots of complex elements going on. Medium bodied, refreshing acid, fine but structured tannins, a bright and zippy approach but plenty of fruit and richness to keep it attractive. Tangy red cherries, strawberries, red currants, some richer dark berries mixed in. Complex, lots of really interesting non-fruit notes: I get sweet cola, incense sticks, tobacco, cedar and red sprinkle pepper as well. Pure Cali goodness but impressive in its tangy, spicy character. From the San Saba Vineyard, this 13.2% alcohol Pinot sees 25% new French oak. (91 points)

2012 Wente Vineyards Pinot Noir Single Vineyard Riva Ranch - California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
$30
Light cherry colored. Tart cranberries and strawberries on the nose, some rose hips and rhubarb as well. Medium bodied, fresh acid, light tannic backbone. The strawberry and red currant fruit is fresh and tart, backed up by notes of damp soil and rose tea. Some toasted oak and mocha last onto the finish, moderate length. Fresh, easy-drinking, perhaps a bit too light for the oak, but a fun wine. Aged 20 months in 50% new French oak. (85 points)

2013 Tolosa Winery Pinot Noir Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
$32
Dark ruby color. Tangy red and black plums on the nose, mixed in with rich currant fruit, a complex display of spice and earth elements that plays well together: black pepper, soy, pipe tobacco, paved roads, violets — all sorts of cool stuff going on here. Medium+ bodied, the tannins provide structure but are fine around the edges, moderate acid helps it stay balanced. A darker approach, with black plums and currants, some blackberry and black cherry pits. The fruit is rich and chewy, backed up with notes of violets, flower pots, charcoal, fresh cracked pepper and asphalt. Seems structured enough for four to five years of aging, which would help coax out all the nuances buried in here. Aged one year in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

For my palate, the 2013 Pinot Noirs from Dierberg are absolutely delicious.

2013 Dierberg Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard Santa Maria Valley - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
$44
Bright ruby. Gorgeous aromatic display: freshest red currants, raspberries, juicy cherries, the fruit is complex and vibrant, backed up by a lovely blend of tobacco, chestnut, pickling spice and violets. Fine tannins, but plenty of structure, the acid isn’t too high but enough to balance the wine out. The fruit is pure and delicious (red cherries, currants, wild raspberries), toss in some bay leaf, spicy chewing tobacco, cigar box and chestnut. Some sweet cola and cedar, but maintains elegance throughout. A pretty and elegant Pinot now, but it could open up and evolve over the next three to four years. (93 points)

2012 Bien Nacido Vineyards Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
$60
Vibrant ruby color. Lots of spice on the nose (clove, white pepper, cinnamon), while the red raspberries smells bright and crunchy (mix in some wild cherry candies, coffee grounds). Medium+bodied, the acid helps keep this clean and the tannins are quite accessible. Smooth, velvety but stays soft in its approach. Raspberries, red and black cherries, gliding, smooth fruit matched with notes of cola, sweet coffee, cinnamon and clove, dusty earth, hints of tobacco underneath. Quite delicious, lovely moufhteel, showing near-term accessibility but strength to stay and complexity to unpack. Very pretty, forward yet elegant, and I love the spice tones. (90 points)

2012 Solomon Hills Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $60
Deep, medium ruby color. Nose of cola, black cherries, raspberry jam, violets, black pepper, tilled soil, charcoal. Full-bodied, dusty tannins with plenty of structure, moderate acid. A plummy wine, also full of black currants and cherries, combined with notes of cracked pepper, bay leaf, charcoal and loam. Juicy and rich but so structured. Notes of soy, charcoal, pepper and root beer add complexity. Full but refined, this will be even more beautiful in two-to-four years. (90 points)

2013 Dierberg Pinot Noir Drum Canyon Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
$52
Medium ruby. A bit tight on the nose, takes time to open up the tart red and black currants, more loamy, potting soil notes, deep sense of roses and violets, a hint of pepper. Dusty tannins, balanced acid, the fruit is velvety and rich yet maintains a tart edge, darker currants, black cherries, raspberries. A loamy, earthy aspect with hints of rhubarb and pepper. Rich and chewy finish with notes of roasted chestnut and cedar shavings. Could use some time to calm down (the Sta. Rita Hills wine is a bit more concentrated than the Dierberg Vineyard) but this is a very well-made Pinot with serious deliciousness, really opens up after a few hours. (92 points)

2012 KITÁ Pinot Noir Hilliard Bruce Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
$60

Deep ruby colored. Nose of raspberries and blackberries, red and black cherries, along with loamy soil, sweet rose potpourri, pepper, vanilla, root beer. Very juicy, fresh and attractive nose. Medium-bodied, silky tannins provide a chewy feel, medium acid. The fruit is rich and chewy, black cherries, dark plums, blackberries, add in some vanilla cola, mocha, sweet chewing tobacco, black cherries in ice cream, but also some cracked pepper, loam and Portobello mushroom elements. Despite the forward approach, this shows a lot of subtlety and complexity. Could be popped now, but I would cellar this for three or four years. A lot in here to contemplate over time. I love high acid, and would like this even more if it had a tad more acid, but it’s still quite balanced. 13.1% alcohol, aged 18 months in 25% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir Jackson Estate - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
$30
Deep ruby color. Rich nose of dark cherries and raspberries, mixed in with cola, sweet oak, violets, loamy soil and caramel. Juicy and chewy feel on the palate, full-bodied, moderate tannins, medium-low acid. The fruit tends toward the black cherries cola and raspberry jam, mixed in with flavors of sweet coffee, caramel, rhubarb pie and root beer. Finishes with cedar and mocha notes. A bit heavy-handed and candied, but fun stuff. Aged in 40% new French oak, includes about 30% American oak as well. (87 points)

2013 Amici Pinot Noir Olema - California, Sonoma County
$25
Light ruby colored. Bright red cherries and cranberries on the nose, some sweet rhubarb pie. Juicy, ripe and forward on the palate, lots of cherry jam and rhubarb pie notes with light roast coffee, floral and sweet cocoa elements as well. Finishes with sweet cherry jam and caramel. Light and fine tannins, a bit of soft, moderate acid, this is an easy-drinking Pinot but a tasty one. Spends 11 months in 30% new French oak. (85 points)

2012 Frei Brothers Pinot Noir Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$27
Vibrant clear cherry color. Bright red berry fruit jumps out on the nose, and I get cola, roses and notes of clove and cinnamon-spice. Juicy and bold fruit on the palate, black cherries and raspberry jam hits the right spot. Soft tannins, bright acid. I get notes of sweet cola, light roast coffee and a hint of red hot candies. Juicy, clean and pleasant, crowd-pleasing stuff. (87 points)

2013 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$40
A gorgeous bright ruby color. Very floral on the nose, lots of roses and with some clove and baking spice notes, all of this on top of some bright red cherries and strawberries. Bright and juicy on the palate with light/dusty tannins and tangy acid. Red apple and strawberry mix with sweeter raspberry jam elements, but an overall tangy red fruit approach. Notes of cola, sage and cranberry sauce add complexity. Open and accessible now but may develop in the near-term. (88 points)

2012 La Merika Pinot Noir - California, Central Coast
$15
Light ruby colored. Smells like black cherries, some stemmy elements along with sweet cola and vanilla. Medium-bodied, medium acid, jammy black cherries and currants on the palate, the oak muddies up the wine and there’s some stemmy, sharp elements on the midpalate. Sweet cola and burned coffee overwhelm the back end to the finish. I can’t score this wine. It’s not chemically faulted, it’s just abysmal. (No score)

American Rosé: Refreshing Options for Summer

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

American consumers love rosé. They’ve been drinking more of it and American winemakers are producing more of their own as well. This is one of my favorite wine consumer trends of late. The more rosé that’s consumed, produced and imported, the more good rosé wine will rise to the top.

Of course, summer and rosé go together like, well, the sun and the beach. While I enjoy rosé year-round, especially in the dead of winter to psyche myself into a warmer weather mindset, there’s no denying that classic refreshing character of a cool glass of pink on a hot day.

Lately, we’ve received a diverse selection of American rosés, including two delicious offerings from Virginia, and some pink Pinot and Syrah goodness from California.

These wines, all from the 2014 vintage, were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

  

2014 Tolosa Winery Rosé of Pinot Noir Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

SRP: $24

Pale salmon color. Deep aromatics, with rich red cherry and ripe strawberries mixing with white flowers, banana peel and sea salt. Fresh and tangy acid, medium-bodied, this rosé is full of strawberry, watermelon and red apples, topped with lilies, baby’s breath and nettle notes. Clean and bright, lots of cut, lingering minerality, and I like the spice elements on the finish (which, based on the 2013 Pinot Noir seems to be a signature characteristic of this vineyard). Lovely stuff. (89 points)

2014 Agnitio Wines Pinot Noir Rosé - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $25

Medium salmon color. Bright and floral on the nose, roses mixed with daisies, some dandelion and nettle as well, on top of white cherries and wild strawberries. Medium to full body but crisp acid, the wine is quite creamy and ripe with strawberries, white cherries and McIntosh apple flavors. Fresh and tart but lots of vibrant fruit, backed up by notes of nettle, rose hips.

(88 points)

2014 Silver Trident Pinot Noir Rosé Apollo's Folly - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $28

Pale salmon color. Aromas of bright strawberries, cherry blossoms, peach and guava nectar, hints of cotton candy and floral perfume. A wine of bold presence on the palate, but held together by refreshing acid. Lots of juicy, almost chunky fruit (guava, red apples, summer peaches), add in notes of floral perfume, chalk and lemon zinger tea. A nice white pepper spice element lingers on the long and creamy finish. Showing a lot of weight, but still refreshing and clean. Could stand up to all sorts of summer fare. (88 points)

2014 Baker Lane Syrah Rosé - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $18

Pale salmon/tangerine color. Lighter approach on the nose, sliced red apples and white cherries, a breezier aromatic profile with white flowers, dandelions and hints of sea salt. Bright and crisp approach on the palate, this wine is light and elegant but not short on flavor. I get McIntosh apple, wild raspberries, tangerine and watermelon fruit, but what I like best is the complex mix of crushed chalk, white pepper, sea shells and minerals. Long, bracing finish that keeps the mouth watering. Crazy value, this is a 12% alcohol Syrah from Baker Lane’s Ramondo Vineyard. (90 points)

2014 Cornerstone Cellars Syrah Stepping Stone Corallina Rosé - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $25

Deep salmon colored. Bright red and white cherries on the nose, rose hips, cotton candy, add in some white pepper and basil. Juicy and ripe on the palate but a clean sense of acid. Tangy white cherries, wild strawberries, nectarine, add in some rose petals, cherry blossoms, hints of white pepper and sweet basil. Bright and clean but I like the creaminess and earthy-herbal notes. Not a saignée, this whole cluster pressed rosé is the best vintage I’ve tasted yet. (87 points)

2014 Early Mountain Vineyards Rosé - Virginia, Central Region, Madison County

SRP: $22

Very pale salmon color with a spritz in the glass. Bright aromatic display: white cherries, wild strawberries, watermelon, roses, nettle. On the palate, clean and crisp but mediu bodied. Bright raspberries, watermelon, also bursting with peach, apricot, drizzled with lime. A nice peppery kick with some nettle notes. Lots of complexity here, and notes of dried clay and crushed chalk come out with time. Lovely stuff, this is wonderfully done Virginia rosé that is able to compete with dry roses from all over the world. A blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Malbec and the rest Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Syrah. (89 points)

2014 Stinson Vineyards Mourvedre Rosé - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello

SRP: $19

Lively salmon color. Very floral nose (roses, dandelions, daisies), mixed with strawberries, red cherries and watermelon, hints of white pepper as well. On the palate, this is a bright, clean and juicy rose, full of watermelon, ruby red grapefruit, red cherries and banana peel. Notes of white pepper, crushed calk and green herbs (basil, maybe?) add complexity. Creamy, fruit-forward yet refreshing and crisp. Stinson does it again in 2014 with this 100% Mourvedre (which is sourced from Horton Vineyards). (88 points)

California Pinot Noirs Shine in 2012

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Lots of winemakers from across California have praised the 2012 vintage. The more Pinot Noirs from 2012 I taste, the more I understand their joy. Since my last post on California Pinot Noirs this summer, I’ve tasted a bunch of them with a few gems.

This report features a few exciting wines from 2012, as well as some from the leaner, tangier 2011 vintage, and a pair of late releases from 2009.

All these wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind unless otherwise noted.

2012 Tolosa Winery Pinot Noir Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

SRP: $32

Bright ruby color. Smells like rose hips, pepper and green herbs sprinkled on top of cranberries and wild strawberries. Medium-bodied with light tannins and a smooth and silky approach. Crunchy red berry fruit, some cherry pie, mix in some pepper, rhubarb and cardamom. Roses and vanilla coffee on the finish. Smooth and creamy and delicious, nice mix of fruit and earthy flavors. Aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (87 points)

2012 Niner Wine Estates Pinot Noir Edna Valley - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

SRP: $35

Dark ruby/light purple color. Nose shows roasted plums, juicy black cherries, some clove, cinnamon and sweet violets. On the palate, the wine is somehow both smooth and chewy at the same time, boasting tons of fruit (black cherries, blackberries, strawberry pie) velvety and smooth but rich. I love the clove, dark chocolate and sweet cola notes, but I also get some graphite and tobacco elements that add complexity. Delicious, open for business, but not a simple fruit bomb. Spends 10 months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2012 Dragonette Cellars Pinot Noir Radian Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

SRP: $54

Dark ruby colored. Aromas pop out of the glass: red cherries, sweet cranberry sauce, notes of cola, rose petals and spicy incense sticks. On the palate, red and black cherries, red currants, the fruit is juicy but tart and laced with graphite, tobacco and coffee. Saucy, rich and bold but kept fresh by medium acid. Long finish of cola, soy sauce and loamy soil. Deep, long, complex, plenty of time to unwind. Aged 15 months in 22% new French oak. (91 points)

2011 Isabel Mondavi Pinot Noir - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $40

Bright ruby-purple color in the glass. Nose shows red and black currants, some sweet roses, earth and cedar tones, a bit of caramel. On the palate, this wine shows a creamy, silky mouthfeel, medium tannins and acid, and the combination leads the wine to glide across the palate. Fresh currants, red and black cherries, the fruit is pure and layered. Notes of fall leaves, sage and chestnut round add a good twist. I also get some mineral and black tea elements. I’d drink this in the near term because it’s so fresh and lively, but it’s high quality stuff. (90 points)

2012 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $35

Light ruby color. On the nose I get bright cherries, raspberries, roses and violets along with sweet clove, cola and roasted coffee. Medium tannin, in sync with the acid, this wine has a mouthfeel made of equal parts dusty, chewy and smooth. The black cherry, plums and raspberry fruit is tart but quite ripe, backed up by notes of coffee, caramel, shaved dark chocolate and black tea. A wide-open Pinot with a lot of attractive qualities. Aged 10 months in 35% new French oak. (88 points)

2012 Paul Dolan Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, North Coast, Potter Valley

SRP: $30

Bright medium ruby color. Chilled strawberries and raspberries on the nose, lovely rose and potting soil notes, some slight herbal notes. Bright and lively on the palate, with fine tannins, medium acid and a mouthfeel equal parts zesty and silky. Juicy, cool, with notes of sweet herbs, cola, and dusty soil, tobacco. Complex yet more restrained in character, although not lacking in flavor or personality. (90 points)

2009 Clos De La Tech Pinot Noir Domaine Lois Louise - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $42

Light cherry colored. On the nose I get red currants and strawberries, a hint of blueberry, with some notes of underbrush, clay soil, roses and sweet cinnamon. On the palate, tart acid combines with some reasonably tight tannins yet a smooth mouthfeel. Black cherries, currants, some tart blueberries, this is also a deeply floral wine with accents of dusty soil, dark chocolate, smoke and toast. Great concentration, cellar-worthy, but maintains smoothness and elegance despite the new oak. I’d love to try this again in four or five years. Aged 18 months in 75% new French oak and two-and-a-half years in bottle before release. (90 points)

2009 Clos De La Tech Pinot Noir Domaine Valeta Sunny Slope - California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains

SRP: $62

More forward on the nose, jumps out of the glass with strawberries and raspberries, also some sweet floral perfume, dandelion, tilled soil and a hint of grilled herbs. Fine tannins, still very structured, moderate acid for balance. Ripe red cherries and strawberries abound, not as smoky or earthy as the Domaine Louise, much more floral and fresh with violets, black tea and potpourri. All sorts of sweet and spicy notes that need time to grow into their own. Focused but still structured, the end result is an elegant wine with cellar capability. Aged 18 months in 75% new French oak and two-and-a-half years in bottle before release. (91 points)

2011 Foppiano Pinot Noir Estate - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $35

Vibrant ruby color. Juicy raspberries and tart cherries on the nose, laced with lots of herbs and spices (rhubarb, white pepper, sage) and a sweet floral accent. Bright and crunchy on the palate, but bold as mouth-coating as well, with a nice mix of tangy cherries and rich black cherries and plums. Lots of white pepper, rhubarb, spicy oregano, backed up by some light roast coffee, roses and loamy soil. A Pinot Noir that covers all the bases, and does it well. Aged in French oak, 25% new. (90 points)

2012 Gundlach Bundschu Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $37

Light medium ruby color. Vibrant cherries on the nose, cool currants, some charcoal and clove mixed in with caramel. Full and fruity on the palate with chewy tannins and medium+ acid. Pure black cherries and tart blueberries, add in some earth, gravel. and dusty library notes with cocoa powder and vanilla cola. Silky, velvety, with a long and rich finish. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)

2011 Hatton Daniels Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $45

Light ruby colored. Lots of earth and spices elements on the nose (rose hips, sage, white pepper, dusty soil) over top of tart cranberries and wild strawberries. On the palate, this is bright and crisp with focused acid and fine-grained tannins. The cranberry, wild cherry and raspberry fruit is crunchy and juicy, and I pick up a range of non-fruit complexities: sage, oregano, cedar, light-roast coffee. Some toffee and vanilla but slight and woven in well. Long, clean with roses and lavender on the finish. Lighter bodied than the 2012 but still very complex. (90 points)

2012 Hatton Daniels Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $45

Clean light ruby colored. Gorgeous nose of rose and violet-tinged earth, dusted over top of red cherry and plum fruit of the tangy and vibrant variety. So alive on the palate with tart acid, dusty tannins of medium strength a silky but fresh mouthfeel. Red currants, cherries, crunchy plums accented by sweet pipe tobacco, fennel, sage. Underlying notes of cherry fountain soda and dried roses. Complex and full yet reserved and so food-friendly. Seems ready now but has the ability to develop for sure. 13.2% alcohol. (91 points)

2012 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $54

Moderate ruby color. Smells savory and bright at the same time, with red currants, mulled raspberries, juicy wild strawberries, some rhubarb pie, notes of chewing tobacco and pine sap.

On the palate, a forward style full of raspberry jam, wild strawberries and some cherry-rhubarb pie. Velvety tannins, medium acid, the fruit is juicy and chewy, backed up by spice and smoke notes. The fruit is a bit sweeter and jammier than the other Sonoma Coast pinots in this group, but it’s balanced a bit by the acid and non-fruit qualities. Notes of caramel and chestnut (50% new oak) linger onto the finish. Drinks well now but could do well over the next few years. A bold style, but very well done. (91 points)

2012 Sojourn Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $54

Vibrant dark ruby colored. Aromas of black cherries and saucy plums, add in some cola, cinnamon and clove, some smoke and earth. Firm tannic structure, some medium acid. Deep, concentrated core of fruit (black cherry and blackberry) a bit roasted but still tart. I also get some charcoal pit, roasted nuts, loamy soil and spice elements (maybe clove and black licorice). Initially this struck me as a bit too intense, but air tones it down. Long, velvety and nutty (50% new oak) on the finish. I’d lay off this for two years or so. A beautiful albeit boisterous Pinot. (92 points)

I'd never heard of this producer before. I'm paying attention now.

2012 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $59

Clear-bright ruby. Nose of cranberries and wild cherries, some roses, white pepper, pickle, clove and cinnamon notes blend in well, adding nuance and complexity to the aromatic package. A very bright and clean Pinot, with dusty tannins of moderate strength and lively acid that whisks the wine over the palate. Bright cherries, wild strawberries, some spiced cranberry jam, elements of tobacco and rose hips blend with mocha and toasted nuts. Seems ready to go, but will surely improve and unwind over the next few years. Aged 11 months in 25% new French oak. (91 points)

2013 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir Vin Gris - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $29

This rosé was tasted sighted. Pale salmon color. Amazingly fresh on the nose, with wild strawberry and watermelon rind, some crusted, salty jetty rocks (a scent I know well. Very crisp acid but the fruit is generous and rolls across the palate in waves: white cherries, strawberries, key lime, some richer papaya and melon chunks. Underlying mineral notes pop out from the fruit while salty notes come out on the finish. Racy, clean, a very exciting rosé. (90 points)