Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

It’s been a very long time since I’ve traveled internationally, and with no plans for the future, I’m assuaging my travel lust this week with a mix of wines from all over the world.

I have some solid French wines in this report, including a diverse group of wines from the Languedoc region, some summer-friendly pink wines, and a delightful Chateauneuf. There are a few interesting wines from Germany (including a stellar Riesling), and some value from Portugal as well. Some crushable yet complex New Zealand reds make quite an impression, too.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Domaine De Cala Côteaux Varois Rosé – France, Provence, Côteaux Varois
SRP: $20
Aromas of lemon, lime and guava, topped in sliced cucumber, chalk, hay and verbena. Light and zippy on the palate with crunchy, steely vibes, and flavors of grapefruit, orange peel and limes. Notes of white flowers, sea salt and celery seed add some complexity. Fresh, fun, springy-summery, salad-friendly rose. Grenache, Cinsault, Rolle and Syrah. (88 points)

2019 Domaine Montrose Côtes de Thongue Rosé – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Côtes de Thongue
SRP : $15
Pale salmon color. Aromas of peaches and lemons, along with spiced white tea, shaved ginger and chalk tones. Zippy and tart on the palate with strawberry and wild raspberry. Spicy tones of pepper, mint and basil add some complexity. A tangy, fun rose. (86 points)

N.V. Michèle Capdepon Blanquette de Limoux Brut – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Blanquette de Limoux
SRP: $19
Rich yellow color. A nice bready nose with salted cashews, honey, chalk, flowers, over top of yellow apples and orange peels. Crisp and focused on this medium-bodied wine, moderate acidity, some pleasant, light toastiness and creaminess. Rich texture, moderate depth, with yellow apple fruit topped in almond, graham cracker, honeycomb. Quite focused, food-friendly, a solid value sparkler that outperforms a lot of other sin this price range. Mauzac and Chardonnay. (88 points)

2017 Clos Fantine Faugères – France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères
SRP : $25
Lovely spice and pepper on the nose with meaty, leathery, paprika-laced tones, over top of red and black cherries and currants. The acidity is really refreshing on the palate, with dusty tannins, medium-bodied, with juicy black cherries and plums. Complex notes of pepper, beef drippings, campfire, with violets and clove. There’s a stony and mineral presence as well. Great now, but decant it or cellar it for a few years. Aged 18 months in concrete. (89 points)

2018 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois – France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

SRP: $112
Medium purple color. A dark core of black cherries and roasted figs on the nose, with smoky, minty, charcoal, anise tones, grilled meats. Full-bodied, chewy tannins, medium/low acidity but enough to keep it together. Juicy black cherries and roasted plums, along with cocoa, menthol, dark chocolate, pepper, lamb hide – a lot going on here. Red and black licorice flavors, too. This is concentrated and young, one for the cellar for sure, but this opens up nicely, especially on day two. Should be great in six or seven years. Grenache with Mourvedre, Syrah and Vaccarese, aged 10 months in stainless steel and 20% oak. (93 points)

2018 Weingut Josef Leitz Rosé Pinot Noir Trocken – Germany, Rheingau
SRP: $17
Beautiful salmon color. Aromas of red apple peel and wild raspberry, fresh and floral with honey pot tones. Pure and vibrant on the palate, with a salty, mineral, talc-laden feel. Crisp and cool with raspberry, white cherries, lots of honey and floral complexities. Absolutely delicious, springy, versatile rose. 6.8 g/l residual sugar. (88 points)

2015 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese – Germany, Nahe
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Beautiful aromas of rushing mountain streams, chalk, sea shells, over banana, lime and white peach, tones of white flowers and green herbs. Plump fruit on the palate with white peach, papaya, drizzled with lime, met with racy acidity and balanced sugar – pristine and focused feel. Lemon drops and white peach topped in shells, minerals, ginger, peanut shell and white flowers. Crystalline in its focus, delightful and refined. Aging well with many, many years ahead. (95 points)

2020 Giunta Malbec Nouveau – New Zealand, North Island, Hawke’s Bay
SRP: $19
Deep purple color. Juicy and fresh on the nose, very Beaujolais-esque, with cherries and red plums, along with some cola, violets, floral potpourri. Fresh and delightful feel on the palate, with light tannins and crisp acidity, gushing with cherries and wild raspberries. Floral and perfumed with some slight clay, loam and tobacco tones for complexity. This has a good amount of balance, freshness and mouthfeel – a fresh, fun, semi-carbonic Malbec that should be a big hit with a lot of different palates. (88 points)

2016 Decibel Pinot Noir Single Vineyard – New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough
SRP: $35
Light ruby color. Lovely spice tones life the aromas, with black pepper, red pepper flakes, beef jerky, over top of tangy raspberries and wild cherries. Zippy on the palate, pleasantly dusty-light tannins, and the fruit is refreshing and tangy (raspberries, spiced cranberry sauce, black cherries). Notes of black pepper and smoked meats, pepperoni, rose petals, I really like these elements and the racy, vibrant feel, here. A Pinot for those tired of baked fruits and high alcohol. Aged 10 months in 10% new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Dow Douro Vale do Bomfim – Portugal, Douro
SRP: $13
Medium purple color. Smells of plums and blackberries, deep and ripe, with smoky earth, pencil lead, violets and coffee grounds. Medium/full-bodied with a pleasantly chewy texture and medium acidity. Chunks of plums and juicy blackberries, laced with cocoa, cedar, iron and earth. Straightforward but balanced, ripe but nuanced. A blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and others. Great introduction to Douro dry reds at a very attractive price point. (87 points)

N.V. Graham Porto 10-Year-Old Tawny – Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $39
Deep tawny color. Pretty, expressive nose of dates, figs, caramel and toasted nuts, that classic warm, inviting aromatic display. On the palate this is full but shows moderating acidity, and chunks of glazed pear, dried pineapple, baked apples. Notes of cinnamon crumb cake, candied pecans and some salted almond add complexity. This is warm, inviting, delicious, and a great introduction to Tawny ports, but enough complexity to keep any tawny-lover intrigued. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Terrific Value Wines from Languedoc-Roussillon

A 100-year-old vineyard in Roussillon France, which I visited in 2014.

I’ve been a big fan of wines from the Languedoc and Roussillon regions of France since I was legally able to purchase alcohol. The wines I found were inexpensive, delicious, and never boring. Spicy, earthy, floral, savory, these wines always offered something a little different.

And things have only improved in recent years. A few years ago, I spent a week traveling through the Languedoc-Roussillon regions of France, which stretch from Montpellier along the Mediterranean to the Spanish border. I explored rocky vineyards of old, gnarly vines, and small producers focused on making the best wine possible from these ancient wine-growing regions. And I fell in love with the wines, the food, the culture, and the people.

Languedoc and Roussillon are actually two separate regions, and each is packed with multiple and diverse appellations. These regions are blessed with very old vines, although many vineyards were abandoned or pulled up as a glut of cheap wine floundered in the market. But the Languedoc-Roussillon regions have reinvented themselves again and again, and these days the high quality wines and moderate prices demand serious respect.

There are so many styles and wines to explore, and you won’t have to spend a lot of money to wrap your palate around what’s on offer. For example, the wines I tasted at Weygandt (which imports a range of exceptional Languedoc-Roussillon wines) all cost between $13 and $25.

My notes on the wines I tasted are below.

2015 Château Montfin Corbières Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières
$13
The creaminess on this wine is really nice, but lots of freshness. Apricots, lemons, minerals, chalk dust, white flowers – absolutely delicious and impressive for the price. Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Vermentino on clay-limestone soils. (87 points)

2014 Domaine des Soulanes Côtes Catalanes Kaya - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
$23
Rich aromatic nose of yellow fruits and flowers. Bold textural palate but fresh acidity and impressive balance. Layered, creamy apricot and orange fruit with mixes of ocean spray. A blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Carignan Blanc and Carignan Gris from 65-year-old vines and aged on the lees in half stainless steel have old oak. I’m in love with this wine. (90 points)

2014 L'Oustal Blanc (Isabel et Claude Fonquerle) K - France, Vin de France
$16
Lovely brightness to the aromatic fruit, along with violets and raspberries and brambly spice. Structured well with dusty tannins but fresh acidity keeps it balanced, bright raspberry and black cherry fruit laced with lavender, pepper, leather. Dusty, earthy, complex, delicious, old school Languedoc red. 100% Carignan from Minervois and St. Chinian. Crazy value. (89 points)

2012 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Les Terrasses du Larzac Le Bouis - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac
$20
So much pepper and leather on the nose with lots of gushing black cherries. Tangy, juicy, fresh but also structured and grippy. Pepper and beef jerky mix so well with the black cherry and plum fruit, and I get notes of lavender, violets, charcoal and roasted herbs. 100% Syrah from shist/slate soils, fermented and aged in concrete. Holding up so nicely with more time ahead. (90 points)

2010 Domaine Canet-Valette Saint-Chinian Ivresses - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian
$22
Roses, raspberries, black cherries, leather and roasted herbs on the nose. Bold and chewy on the palate but fresh acidity balanced it all out. The red currant and black cherry fruit is tossed with leather, pepper, sage, dusty earth. Lots going on here, this is very pretty but still has time ahead. Grenache with 5% Mourvedre and 5% Syrah. (90 points)

2014 Domaine des Soulanes Côtes du Roussillon Villages Sarrat Del Mas - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
$22
Leathery saddle nose with plums, black cherries, anise and rose potpourri. Silky texture but serious tannic structure, moderating acidity, this wine pumps with plum and black cherry fruit, mixes with spiced tea and roasted herb notes. Delicious and elegant now but I’d love to taste this in 3-5 years. 50% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 25% Syrah, aged 12 months on old oak. (90 points)

You Should Be Buying and Drinking Languedoc Reds

If you're anything like me you love: a) hearty red wine with rich fruit and savory flavors, b) cooking up foods to pair with said wines, and c) doing all this for a reasonable amount of money.

I've long been a fan of the value-driven red blends coming from the Languedoc region of Southern France. But it wasn't until a trip there last year that I began to grasp the extent of good, and even potentially great, wines of this region. Perhaps unfairly, this region has struggled against a reputation as a workhorse region of boring bulk wine. That meme should've died out years ago. More and more producers are crafting stunning wines (frequently from very old vines) that can rival the quality of similar blends from the Rhone, and many of them cost quite a bit less.

If you don't know anything about this region, there has never been a better time to learn. The selections are better and more diverse than ever.

Weygandt Wines, my favorite shop in DC, has an impressive range of Languedoc wines from some consistent producers. Perhaps overshadowed by their extensive Burgundy, Loire and Rhone offerings, these wines offer consumers a great primer on Languedoc reds. Sure, Languedoc is home to wines of every style and color, but this is largely the land of red wine. These wines are generally blended from Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and a host of other red grapes.

2012 Domaine Montfin Corbières - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières
$15
I get ripe cherries and smoke on the nose. Good structure but approachable, the dark plum and cherry fruit is accented by notes of anise and charcoal. 70% Carignan and 30% Grenache. (85 points)

2012 Jean-Baptiste Senat Minervois Arbalete and Coquelicots - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Minervois
$19
More olive and white pepper on the nose here, some bright currants and cherries with a spicy herbal kick. Firm but dusty tannins, bright acid, clear currant fruits and plum skins mixed with earth, spice and herbal components. Drinking well now. 80% Grenache and 20% Cinsault. (88 points)

2012 Jean-Baptiste Senat Minervois La Nine - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Minervois
$25
Darker and earthier on the nose, more like the fruit has been crushed into a paste with deep iron accents. Smooth yet structured, crunch dark plum and kirsch flavors are balanced by earth, meat, pepper and exotic floral elements. Spicy, loamy finish. Very pretty now but could be cellared for 3-4 so easily. 40% Grenache, 40% Carignan and 20% Syrah. (90 points)

2010 Jean-Baptiste Senat Minervois Le Bois des Merveilles - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Minervois
$35
Bursting with raspberries, blackberries, cola, chocolate pudding and sweet oregano aromas, a very complex mix. Bold, a bit more extracted, this is a deep, plummy, rich and plush wine. Stays smooth throughout, as the dark plum fruit mixes with minerals, spices and liqueur notes. Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre. (90 points)

2010 Clos Marie Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St. Loup L'Olivette - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St. Loup
$25
Dark and a bit tight on the nose, shows some roses and deep plums though. Smoky and bold on the palate but some refreshing tart red berries. Mineral elements, mocha, spice and violets. Complex stuff that could develop quite a bit in the cellar. Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. (88 points)

2010 Clos Marie Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St. Loup Simon - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St. Loup
$38
Sweet plum cake on the nose, deeply floral, ginger snap cookies, cinnamon, charcoal, all sorts of interesting aromas. Firm, well structured palate, yet pretty. Plums, blackberries, doused in smoke, tobacco, pine sap and mineral notes. Complex, long, yet refreshing. Needs time to show full potential, but this is a real beauty. (91 points)

2012 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Coteaux du Languedoc Le Clos - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc
$19
Very pretty aromas of dark flowers, olives and smoke. Sweet plums mix with herbal smoke on a silky-smooth frame. Juicy fruit, mineral and earth accents, an elegant approach. Equal parts Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Oeillade grapes. (88 points)

2012 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac Le Bouis - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac
$27
Smooth and rich on the nose, lovely plums, earth and charcoal notes. Smooth and full palate, coating yet still fresh with a bunch of jammy black and red fruits. A spice-laden wine, with chestnuts, graphite, charcoal, a deep sense of minerality. Syrah from schist soils, the Northern Rhone fans should dig this. I've love to bury this for a decade. (90 points)

2011 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac La Blaca - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac
$25
Lovely nose of black cherry pie, spice cake, green herbs, violets and cocoa. Smooth and velvety palate, tons of floral, cola and herbal spice elements to bounce off the juicy blueberry and blackberry fruit. Complex, intense, worthy of 5+ years in the cellar. A long, impressive blend of 75% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 10% Carignan. I loved the 2010 and this vintage is really impressive as well. (91 points) 

2011 Domaine Le Clos du Serres Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac L'Humeur Vagabonde - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc Les Terrasses du Larzac
$25
Deeply mineral-driven on the nose, the berry fruit mixes with lots of granite, charcoal and spice notes, some sweet violets as well. Silky and pure on the palate, plummy with chewy tannins. Long, minera-centric, complex notes of smoke, coffee, sage and minerals. From the estates 100-year-old Carignan vines with some Syrah and Grenache blended in. Beautiful stuff with plenty of life ahead. (91 points) 

2013 L'Oustal Blanc (Isabel et Claude Fonquerle) Vin de France K - France, Vin de France
$20
Deep and extracted aromatically, boysenberry and blueberry pie topped with smoked notes. Jammy, plummy, yet not overblown, like blueberries and blackberry pie topped with cocoa, charcoal smoke and pepper. Can’t help but love it, even if it is a bit burly. All Carignan. (88 points)
 
2012 L'Oustal Blanc (Isabel et Claude Fonquerle) Naïck Red - France, Vin de Table Français
$22
Smells huge, like massive blueberries topped with pepper and grilled herbs. Actually smooth and creamy, not hot despite the higher alcohol, a bold wine for sure though, mouth-filling. Full of blackberry and blueberry jam, topped with earth, violets, pepper and smoke. Comes from two terroirs, one in Saint Chinian and one in Minervois. A blend of Cinsault, Carignan and smaller parts Grenache and Syrah from two parcels in Saint Chinian and Minervois. The biggest wine in the lot, but very well-made. (89 points)

Tasting Report: Grab Bag of Languedoc Wines

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Earlier this year I had the pleasure of touring the Languedoc region of France. It was an eye-opening experience, and I found many underdog wines worth rooting for. Since my last tasting report on wines from the Languedoc, I’ve tasted through a few rosés and reds and found some impressive and interesting wines. Most of them are solid values as well.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2013 Domaine de Gournier Vin de Pays Cévennes Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays Cévennes

SRP: $10

Aromas of white peach, honeydew and watermelon, some white pepper as well. Zingy and crisp on the palate, steely even. White cherries and tart strawberries mix with sea salt, white pepper and minerals. Crisp but plump with lingering minerals on the finish. Cabernet, Cinsault, Grenache, Merlot and Syrah. (87 points)

2013 Domaine Saint-Antoine Vin de Pays du Gard Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays du Gard

SRP: $13

A vibrant watermelon color. A burst of red apple peel, strawberries, sweet roses and a rustic, earthy, herbal quality as well, which I find very attractive. The palate is really impressive, showing a lot of concentration and depth, but the acid rips through, balancing it out. Gushing strawberries, white cherries and McIntosh apple fruit, but it’s laced with pepper, granite and there’s a lot of earth tones in this wine. I’m impressed with the complexity of this wine, and the kinds of food it could pair with, but it’s still fresh and zesty wine at its core. A rosé of Syrah, and a ridiculous value. (89 points)

2012 Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères “Les Novices” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères

SRP: $20

Medium ruby-purple color. Spicy on the nose, with cracked pepper and sage over top of cranberries, sour cherries and red plums. Medium-bodied with medium tannins and fresh acid. The raspberry and cherry fruit is tangy and fresh but it’s also got just a bit of a sun-roasted quality to it. This wine shows a lot of earth, like deep, loamy soil mixed in with crushed rocks. I get a nice sweet spice note as well, like clove and cinnamon. Made from the estate’s younger vines, this is a bit lighter, but it still shows significant complexity. 55% Cinsault, 30% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre. (87 points)

2012 Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères “La Closeraie” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères

SRP: $25

A bright magenta-purple color. Aromas of sweet roses, tar, strawberry, currant jam, basil-rosemary, all deep and complex. Fresh, fine tannins, juicy strawberry, cherry and currant fruit mix with earth, chestnut and roasted coffee notes. I also get some bright floral notes, and an underlying sense of minerality. Very impressive and lasting, could even use 2 or 3 in the cellar. So pure and tangy and fresh, elegant even. 35% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 20% Carignan and 20% Mourvedre. (89 points)

This Faugeres sounds the clarion call: Take Languedoc seriously.

2011 Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères “Le Songe de l’Abbé” - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères

SRP: $39

Dark purple color. Complex, deep aromas of blackberry, black currant, crushed rocks and pencil lead, some cedar, graphite and iron, so dark and complex. Fresh and tangy acid but firm tannins. Tart black berries and black currant fruit blends with accents of charcoal, cedar, black pepper and cocoa powder. I also get some earthy-herbal elements (Sweet basil? Eucalyptus?) Deep and very complex, profound even. This is drinking well now but could easily improve with 3-5 in the cellar. From the producer’s oldest vines in schist soils, this is a blend of 50% Carignan, 30% Cinsault, 10% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre, aged 12 months in new oak. I’ve tasted a ton of Languedoc wines this year, and this ranks up there with the best. (92 points)

2012 Mas des Bressades Vin de Pays du Gard Cabernet/Syrah - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays du Gard

SRP: $15

A juicy ruby color in the glass. Nose of black cherries, black currants, vibrant roses and sweet herbal tea, incense, herbal liqueur. Full bodied and velvety with chewy tannins and moderate acid. The plum cake, roasted fig and currant paste flavors are long and complex, accented by spice cake, fig cookies and some pepper sauce. Ripe and chewy but not just about the fruit. Decant or hold for two to four years. 70% Cabernet and 30% Syrah. (88 points)

2012 Domaine Sainte-Eugénie Corbières La Réserve - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Corbières

SRP: $15

Bright raspberries and red currants on the nose, some underlying smoke, anise and violet notes. Tangy and fresh on the palate, with crisp acid and dusty tannins. Bright raspberries, red currants, red apple peel mix with minerals, crushed rocks and pencil shavings, and there are some underlying herbal elements. So fresh and lively, quite complex with lots of mineral and rocky-granite elements. Finishes long and fresh. I’m really surprised by how pretty this wine is. Syrah, Carignan and Grenache. Great bargain. (90 points)

Le Clos du Serres: Terroir-Driven Wines From Terrasses du Larzac

Sébastien Fillon was born in the Loire and worked as an engineer in Lyon. At 30, he switched careers and became a winemaker. He received a degree in viticulture and started looking for a place to make his own wine. After three years of searching, Sébastien and his wife Béatrice found the perfect spot in Southern France’s Languedoc. In 2006, they bought Domaine le Clos du Serres, near St. Jean de la Blaquière in the relatively new Terrasses du Larzac appellation.

“There’s everything one needs to make great wine: arid soil, deep water, sun, a very special climate,” Sébastien explains. “After the era of mass wine production, it was here that Languedoc quality wines began re-emerging in the ’90s. Nowadays this outstanding terroir is buzzing and its true potential has only been recognized in the past few years.”

 

The Fillon family in Terrasses du Larzac. Photo courtesy of Weygandt Selections.

Terrasses du Larzac was recognized as a sub-appellation of the AOC Coteaux du Languedoc in 2004. The AOC regulations allow only red blends to be produced under the Terrasses du Larzac appellation. These wines are mostly blends of syrah, grenache and mourvèdre, but these three grapes cannot individually exceed 75% of the blend. Also, syrah and/or mourvèdre must make up a minimum of 20% of the wine. Every Terrasses du Larzac wine must be a blend of at least two varieties. While these regulations sound strict, they do allow for a lot of variation in the amount and percentage of grape varieties in the final blend.

The soils of Terrasses vary widely, composed of stones, clay, sand, limestone. The hot Languedoc sun is tempered by the proximity to the limestone Larzac plateau and the river valleys of Hérault and Lergue, which bring in cool air during the summer nights. This large shift in temperature between day and night helps the grapes mature slowly and maintain acidity.

For Sébastien, Terrasses was the perfect place to lay down roots. “The Terrasses du Larzac appellation is still young but its reputation is coming on in leaps and bounds,” he explains on his website. “The number of seriously high quality vineyards in the sector is incredible.”

I recently had the opportunity to meet Sébastien in DC and taste through some new releases from Domaine Le Clos du Serres. Weygandt Wines, the DC shop of one of my favorite wine importers, recently started bringing these wines into the U.S. Considering their quality and reasonable prices, I’m sure these wines will be a big hit.

My notes on the wines of Domaine Le Clos du Serres are posted below.

A Night of (Mostly) Rhone Wines

Ah, the wines of the Rhone Valley: Northern Rhone syrah; the grenache, syrah and mourvedre (GSM) blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape; viognier, roussanne and marsanne, those big and bold white varietals. Rhone Valley wines have always been my favorite in the world. Suffice it to say I was excited when some wine nerd friends and I decided to have a tasting dinner focused on Rhone varieties. The theme of the dinner was loose: bring a wine from the Rhone Valley or a wine from somewhere else made from a Rhone grape variety or a Rhone-style blend. The result was a great tasting of diverse wines.

The wines were consumed along with a lovely mix of rich Italian-inspired food at Dino's in Washington, DC's Cleveland Park neighborhood. It's long been one of my favorite restaurants, and a long-time gathering place for my wine crew. The food was spectacular, as always, and the service top-notch. I got a three-course meal, which started with Dino's house charcuterie platter containing lamb tongue, "truck patch pig head terrine," Tuscan liver spread and a wild boar and mustard pate. The compelxity of flavors and textures was crazy. For my main course I ordered my favorite dish: a pappardella ai cinghiale bianco, which is a lovely pasta served with ground wild boar, onion, wine and shaved pecorino. To finish it off I had a homemade ice cream topped with fresh espresso.

Now, to the wines...

The Whites

1990 Domaine du Viking Vouvray Tendre - France, Loire Valley, Vouvray
Okay, this isn't a Rhone white but it was a welcome addition to the tasting. The cork was crusted on top, but it came out without a problem. It was soaked almost to the end, but the wine inside was still lively. What a unique nose on this chenin blanc. Apricot, oil, white tea, apple sauce and, here’s the kicker, a distinct note of arugula and garlic. Crazy stuff. The palate has nice plump feel to it, almost waxy. Flavors of candied orange rind, lamp oil and a pungent flavor of green onion and arugula, no kidding. There’s a hint of sweetness that makes this wine easy to drink and fresh acid for balance. Quite nice, although clearly a wine for the open-minded. (87 pts.)

2004 Alban Vineyards Roussanne Estate - California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
I opened a bottle of this wine in March and absolutely loved it. I figured it would be fun to share another bottle with the group and see what they thought. I love the cloudy pineapple-copper color and the thick legs on this wine. You know this is gonna be a big wine just by looking at it. Aromas of pineapple, peanut shell, chestnut, mango and wax. (Is there such a thing as a mango candle?) Plump and rich on the palate, full of nutty flavors and tropical fruit, accented with honey and brown sugar. The acid, which tingles the palate, saves this wine from being too big and overdone. There’s some oak here (the wine is aged in two-thirds new French oak) but somehow it’s integrated. Age has done some really interesting things to this wine. The wine was even better the next day. (92 pts.)

2007 Kenneth Volk Viognier Live Oak Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Vibrant light gold color with fat legs. This viognier bursts with aromas of white peach, lemon zest, white flowers and fresh biscuits. On first sip, it’s evident we’re in California. Huge and fat, like oil on the palate, with flavors of honey, peach, mixed nuts and toast. This wine is very big and viscous, and the oak is a little too much for my palate. The alcohol burns a bit. I could see a lot of people loving this, but it’s not exactly my style. I like this producer a lot, and at least they warn you with “oak” right there in the name of the vineyard. (85 pts.)

A Blind Red

2005 Bodegas Dos Victorias Toro Gran Elías Mora - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro
This was poured blind before we moved into the Rhone wines. Bright purple color, showing a bit of age in the sour cherry-tinged rims. Dark, brooding aromas of sweet plum, cassis, clove and a hint of tobacco. The palate is packed with tight tannins and sweet cassis and blueberry fruit. A little low on the acid. The dark fruit is mixed with toasty oak and a distinct flavor of clove tobacco. My guess: a Toro with 5+ years on it. I don't mean to brag, but I was pretty excited that I nailed this one. This wine probably needs a decant or a few more years to unravel. (90 pts.)

(Mostly) Rhone Reds

2000 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Mourre des Perdrix - France, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
I was pleasantly surprised by this wine. It was a good Chateauneuf to start with, being elegant and fresh. Ruby color, tinged with beef broth. Aromas of sour cherry, wild raspberry, tree bark and a bit of tomato paste. Silky and light on the palate, with fine tannins and fresh acid. Tangy, snappy red fruit, black pepper and charcoal flavors glide over the palate. Very nice, restrained wine. Almost Burgundian. (88 pts.)

1999 M. Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granits - France, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
Northern Rhone syrah, now we're talking. Vibrant, clear plum color in the glass. The aromas are elegant and complex: rhubarb, red currant, bacon fat, rosemary... just beautiful. On day two it was even more elegant and exotic. On the palate, this St. Joseph is everything I love about Northern Rhone syrah: solid tannic grip, fresh acid, and a beam of minerals and iron. Flavors of red plum fruit, grilled steak, a bit of charcoal. Lovely finish with hints of red licorice. This is still going strong. (91 pts.)

Tasting New Wines with Peter Weygandt

Thank Bacchus for Peter Weygandt. Not only does he import a wide array of hand-picked, terroir-driven wines, but he's a damn nice guy. Over the years I've tasted a lot of wines with Peter, and it never ceases to amaze me how much he knows about his wine. He's got an experienced yet nuanced palate and a great ability to communicate, so the tastings are always informative and fun.

On Saturday Peter had a few dozen bottles open at the shop. He already sells some of the wines, while others will soon be on the shelves. Like all of Peter's selections, those at the tasting demonstrated traditional characteristics and a sense of place. Here are some notes on a few of Weygandt's imports.

2010 Tenuta Adolfo Spada Fiano di Avellino - Italy, Campania, Fiano di Avellino
Nothing like a good Campanian white on a summer day. Floral and melon aromas. Melon rind on the palate, a bit of oiliness. Nice cut on the finish. As my buddy Truman said, "It's a sticky day wine." (86 pts.)

2011 Marc Plouzeau Sauvignon Touraine Les Devants de la Bonnelière - France, Loire Valley, Touraine
When I tasted this blind last week, I guessed it as a Sancerre. Aromas of lemons and minerals, but I also picked up just a hint of green onion this time. Lots of acid, minerals and a bit of brine on this one. For $15, this is such a good sauvignon blanc. (88 pts.)

2010 Weingut Dr. Siemens Riesling Scivaro - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Initially there was a bit of hay and herbs on the nose, but it shifted to show white flowers, apricot nectar and circus peanuts. The palate is zippy and full of minerals, backed up by ripe melon fruit. That 2010 acid carries the wine from start to finish. A really solid riesling for the price point. (89 pts.)

2011 Herdade do Sobroso Vinho Regional Alentejano Sobro - Portugal, Vinho Regional Alentejano
I was surprised by the vibrancy and personality of this Portugese white wine. Sweet peaches and cotton candy on the nose. But the palate isn't sweet or overripe, just full of lush pear and melon fruit. Acid sings the entire time, and the finish is laced with minerals. Great party wine. (87 pts.)

2010 Catherine et Pascal Rollet Pouilly-Fuissé Domaine de la Chapelle Aux Bouthières - France, Burgundy, Pouilly-Fuissé
Gorgeous, elegant nose of pear, yellow flowers and hints of hazelnut. The palate is full of acid, from start to finish, and mixed in there are flavors of sweet pear, honeydew melon and a hefty shot of minerals. Delicious. (90 pts.)

2010 Domaine Daniel et Denis Alary Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange La Grange Daniel - France, Southern Rhône, Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange
Honey, ripe peach and clover on the nose. The palate shows a lot of rich melon and apricot fruit, but balanced acid, and a hint of nougat. 100% roussanne. (87 pts.)

2008 Domaine David Clark Côte de Nuits Villages - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits Villages
I was very impressed with the way this wine showed. It was really open and expressive, not shut-down at all. Fragrant aromas of cherries, smoke and beef broth. The palate shows silky tannins, tangy acid and flavors of pure cherry fruit, smoke and earth. Very subtle toast on the finish. Overall, this is a really balanced and complex village wine. (90 pts.)

2011 Domaine les Aphillanthes Vin de Pays de Vaucluse - France, Southern Rhône, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse
Aromas and flavors of sweet cherries and cola. Simple, but quite yummy. (84 pts.)

2009 Domaine Canet-Valette Saint-Chinian Une et Mille Nuits - France, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian
I'm glad Weygandt Wines will be bringing this stuff in. I've been a fan of Canet-Valette since I tasted their wines when I was a 21-year-old wine newbie. It's been years since I've had one, and the 2009 Une et Mille Nuits was a great re-introduction. Very fragrant, showing black olives, smoke, and lots of plums and dates. The palate is packed with dates, plum skins and gritty tannins. The fruit is backed up with savory broth, smoke and black pepper. Long, complex finish. This begs for lamb. (90 pts.)

2008 Domaine Canet-Valette Saint-Chinian Le Vin Maghani - France, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian
Cavent-Valette's high-end bottling, the Maghani, deserves serious credit. Lovely Languedoc aromas of sheep farm, charcoal, pepper. There's also this lovely aroma that reminds me of a combination of fresh cherries and rhubarb. Incredible, complex nose that will only get better with time. The palate is so savory: bacon fat, grilled meat, charcoal, mixed with black cherries and cassis. The finish is seamless and silky. 91+. I imagine this will get better of the next three-to-five. (91 pts.)

2009 La Bastide Blanche Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol
Aromas of plums, smoke, graphite and beef broth. The palate is medium+ bodeid with grippy tannins. It tastes very young, and needs a decant at least, but more likely two years of time in the cellar. Brute flavors of grilled meats, iron, tobacco, along with hardcore plum. Very enjoyable, but this youngin' needs time. (89 pts.)