Showing posts with label Champagne. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Champagne. Show all posts

Friday, February 9, 2024

Selections for Valentine’s Day and beyond

Congrats to anyone who did a dry January! February is in full swing, and Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. We’ve also got the Super Bowl coming up, and Spring will be knocking on the door before we know it.

A heart of locks on an Appalachian Trail overpass
So, if you’re looking to stock up on some wines for the coming festivities, branch out and try something new, or purchase a bottle or two for your special someone, this week I have a delightful mix of wines that will fit the bill.

Amour and French wines go together, so a few are needed on this list. Champagne (of course), but I also included some intriguing pink wines and a wine I don’t see too often but thoroughly enjoy – Faugères Blanc.

From Marlborough, New Zealand comes a Sauvignon Blanc worthy of love and affection – Loveblock. It’s one of the better iterations of the style that I’ve come across in recent years, and the value is great.

Portugal is one of my favorite places on Earth, and I loved taking my partner and daughter there last year to show them the country. The food, landscape, and (of course) wine are endlessly fascinating and interesting, so I had to include some cool new Portuguese wines in this report. I have a handful of wines that represent just a drop in the bucket in terms of Portugal’s wine diversity.

Italy also needs a spot on this lovely list of wine, and the wines of Valpolicella is such a great cold weather wine to enjoy and share with those you love. From Pasqua, I have two warm, hearty reds that are seriously worth checking out. They’re great for the cellar, a meat dish you’ve been braising all day, or a gift to someone you love.

I also have a stunner of a dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes’ Ravines. Riesling is perhaps the world’s greatest grape (arguments welcomed, but I won’t hold my breath). And this FLX wine is so vibrant and versatile. I also have a value-driven and delicious Pinot Noir from Oregon that I think would please most any palate.

Whatever you’re sipping and whoever you’re sipping it with, all the best for Valentine’s Day and the rest of Winter.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Château des Estanilles Faugères Vallongue Blanc - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. The aromas show a delightfully rich mix of pears and yellow apples, honey, graham cracker, almond, shaved ginger, along with some crushed limestone and flinty vibes. The palate has racy acidity and a precise sense of salinity, along with a lovely creamy texture. Flavors of white peach, yellow apples, pear butter, along with notes of almond and ginger cake, and crushed chalk and limestone tones. Minerals and talc on the long, pithy finish. Really delightful stuff, diverse, balanced, delicious, will age as well. 45% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, 20% Vermentino, aged six months on the lees in stainless steel. (91 points)

2022 Domaine de l'Abbaye Côtes de Provence Clos Beylesse - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $26
Pale copper color. The nose is a bright infusion of raspberries and white cherries, with lots of crushed stones, minerals, sea salt, with some nettle and white pepper tones. The palate is racy and pithy, contrasted and balanced by a honeyed depth. Peaches and raspberries, mixed with orange blossom, floral perfume, some chalk dust and minerals, and honeysuckle. Pleasant texture, bright, delicious, complex – a Provence pink to put some summer in your February. (90 points)

2022 Château d'Astros Côtes de Provence Cuvée Amour - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $18
Rich salmon color. A juicy mix of watermelon, white cherry, and strawberries, with flinty, chalky, crushed stone vibes, along with celery seed, perfume, and lily elements. The palate is crisp but taut with red apples and white cherry fruits, balanced and vibrant. The fruit is laced with notes of sea salt, limestone, chalk dust, along with all sorts of white tea, mint, white flowers, and some celery seed tones. Zesty, springy, floral, versatile, this is great for Valentine’s Day, spring, or really any time of year. (90 points)

N.V. Perrier-Jouët Champagne Grand Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $65
Light gold color. A classic and inviting aromatic blend of biscuits, gingerbread, almond cake, with lemon bars, lime zest, green pears and white peaches, with lots of floral tones. The palate has a crunchy, flinty, fresh appeal with a nice creamy depth, pleasantly balanced. Yellow apples, lemons and limes, and juicy peach fruit mixes well with elements of nougat, fresh biscuits, honey butter, and honeyed ginger tea. Complex, refined, classic. (90 points)

2015 Pasqua Valpolicella Superiore Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. An exciting aromatic display of deep red currants, saucy plums, and black cherry jam, along with a host of non-fruit complexities: loamy earth, roasted red pepper, chewing tobacco, eucalyptus, with notes of cedar. Ripe bright on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and fresh acidity, supporting saucy mulled fruits (currants, plums, black cherries). Balanced and refined with flourishes of dried violets, earth, soy sauce, sage, leather Fresh and bright personality throughout but offers a lot to parse through. (91 points)

2013 Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
SRP: $85
Dark ruby color. Aromas invite contemplation with these nuanced savory, floral, and spice-laden tones, accenting the blackberry, cranberry relish, and mulled cherry fruit. I also get some coffee and dark chocolate. When sipping, this wine is both bold and elegant, with structured but sanded tannins and crisp acidity. Beautiful red cherry and currant fruit with cranberry relish, accented by leather, dusty earth, warm clay, chewing tobacco, cigar box, sandalwood, and coffee. A concentrated but expressive Amarone, and one that will have love to show for many years. Bury a bottle or enjoy now! (93 points)

2022 Loveblock Vintners Ltd Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $31
Medium yellow color. So bright and inviting on the nose with ruby red grapefruit, green melon, limes, and the fruit is mixed with a complex blend of honey, tropical flowers, with nuanced green herbs and wild leeks. The palate sports gorgeous, pleasantly creamy texture, matched by brisk acidity, with pristine balance. Flavors of white peach, lemons and limes, cantaloupe, and honeydew. The fruit is tossed with complex notes of stones and chalk dust, minerals, white pepper, wild green herbs. It has this stony, mountain stream clarity, lots of precision, and a long finish. A NZ Sauv Blanc to win over any skeptics. (92 points)

2022 Quinta da Raza Trajadura Raza Pet-Nat - Portugal
SRP: $20
Bold yellow color with fine fizz. Lively and floral on the nose, with scents of white peaches and limes, along with dandelion, chalk, crushed sweet tarts – really floral and vibrant. The palate is pithy and tart, crunchy and dry, a bit bracing but delicious. Fruit-wise, this shows orange peel, tart pear, green apple, and to that the wine adds saline, quinine, minerals, dried white flowers, and some spicy nettle or mint. Focused, lively, great stuff to stock up on for Spring. Made from the Trajadura grape. (89 points)

2020 Companhia Agricola do Sanguinhal Óbidos Grande Reserva Branco Quinta das Cerejeiras - Portugal, Lisboa, Óbidos
SRP: $27
Bright yellow color. The nose shows yellow and green pears, lemon curd, and green apples, matched with crushed limestone, slate, along with honey and yellow flowers. The palate shows a rich textural weight but zesty acidity, combining for a clear and focused white. Flavors of lemon, quince, and green apples blend with tones of cut flower stems, basil, some crushed stone, sea salt. Delicious and harmonious. I travelled to Obidos last year and, my goodness, it is an incredible place and home to some delightful wines. Chardonnay, Arinto, and Vital grapes aged eight months in French oak and four months in steel. (90 points)

2021 Aveleda Alvarinho Solos de Granito - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Regional Minho
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Aromatically cranking with floral and citrus goodness – I get lemon, quince, limes, with mountain stream, stony minerals, saline, grapefruit rind, some honeysuckle. Racy acidity skates over the palate but there’s a nice textural complexity and depth, too. Flavors of ruby red grapefruit and oranges mix well with all sorts of white and yellow flowers, mountain stream, sea salt, and a level of mineral infusion that is so invigorating. Bring on all sorts of seafood and shellfish, or just sip as an apéritif. Well done! Fermented and aged in stainless steel for nine months with lees stirring. (91 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Prazo de Roriz - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $18
Bright purple color. The nose shows tangy red and black currants and cherries and a whole lot of savory/spicy tones like: warm rocks, potting soil, sage and anise, oregano, black pepper. Fresh and ripe on the palate with chewy but structured tannins and moderating acidity. The plum, red and black cherry, and roasted fig fruit is deep and tangy. Notes of chewing tobacco, scorched earth, graphite, and dark chocolate shavings add complexity. For me, this is a perennial winner both for its quality and value. A classic Portuguese blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Touriga Franca. (90 points)

2021 Prats and Symington Douro Post Scriptum de Chryseia - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. The nose exudes a warm, wintry, but inviting host of currant jam, plum cake, fig paste, along with savory broth and pepper, dried violets, a cool leathery kick, and some graphite and minerals. The palate is grippy but suave with zippy acidity and a concentrated but fresh appeal. Flavors of plums, currant and fig paste, and tart blueberry. Add in some smoky earth, tar, leather, black pepper, anise, along with black tea and nuanced oak. This is juicy, tangy, and complex, and should also age well. Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with small amounts of Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Sousão, and Tinta Cão. (91 points)

2020 Ravines Wine Cellars Dry Riesling - USA, New York, Finger Lakes
SRP: $21 
Lovely gold color. Beautiful depth of aromas packed in here – papaya, lime, white peach, yellow flowers, honey, ocean spray, smashed rocks. The palate has precise balance and a dry, zesty appeal with a pure mouthfeel. Flavors of yellow pears, white peach, and papaya taste ripe and alive. Then the waves of non-fruit complexities rush in: slate, minerals, ocean jetty, flinty tones, with perfume, and honeysuckle. Tingling minerals last long onto the finish. Great stuff, classic Finger Lakes Riesling goodness, and an exceptional value. (91 points)

2021 Rare North Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. The aromas are bright and red with cranberry, raspberry, tangy strawberry, along with notes of dusty earth, rhubarb, and some richer notes of light roast coffee grounds and roasted chestnut. On the palate, medium acidity with smooth, lightly dusty tannins, and a cool mix of fruit – from black cherry and plum to raspberry and strawberry rhubarb pie. The non-fruit elements are a lot of fun – there’s some spicy herbal tea, with roasted chestnut and cinnamon elements, and some rose petals and rhubarb. Lovely, fresh, will-please-all-palates kind of Willamette Pinot at a steal of a price. (89 points)

Sunday, December 12, 2021

Wine Selections for the Holidays

 It’s been a long year. Whatever holidays you may be celebrating, I wish you and yours safety, joy, and good food and wine.

So, this week I have some selections that are all over the map. I tried to curate some samples that would please crowds, provide joy and pair well with celebrations and wintry foods.

Like many of you, I’m sure, I love bubbles year-round. But, of course, from Thanksgiving through New Year’s, bubbles are huge, and I have a nice mix in here. From inexpensive tank method bubbles through some delightful Champagnes.

Domaine Bousquet brings its Charmat method bubbles, which are the best-selling bubbles from Argentina and are inexpensive, accessible and fun. Lanson delivers three different Champagne options that offer a nice view of their approach, while Bruno Paillard delivers, as always. And California's Frank Family brings two different Champagne method sparklers to the table.

There are some also deep, juicy, warm reds, too, from California’s Smith Madrone, Sullivan and Tooth & Nail.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Sparkling wines

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The nose shows a bright mix of lemon and kiwi with sugarcane, white flowers, and some crushed chalk and sweet tarts. The palate is bright and light with zippy acidity and integrated sugar, light bubbles, and flavors of lemons, green apple, kiwi, floral perfume, talc. Fresh, fun, light and steely, crowd-pleasing bubbles. 75/25 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, 11 g/l residual sugar. (86 points)

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut Rosé - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Pale salmon color. This has a crunchy and lively aromatic appeal with raspberry, tart strawberry and notes of rose petals and talc. Has a fresh and vibrant feel on the palate, with soft bubbles and a crisp, steely vibe. Strawberry and white cherry fruit mix with notes of honeysuckle, rose petals, and some crushed sweet tarts and chalk tones. Fresh, fun and zippy. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 12 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Light gold color. Beautiful nose of lemons and pears, topped with honey, sea salt, bread dough and white flowers – a whole lot going on for a wine at this price point. Zesty and chalky on the palate with yellow apples and lemon fruit, mixed with some nuanced biscuit and dough notes. Nice verve and floral/salty kick. A classic value Cremant that would please a wide spectrum of palates. Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois with a 10 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $23
Pale salmon color. The nose is crisp and floral with raspberry and red apples peel, along with chalk dust, wildflowers and perfume. Crisp and zesty on the palate with tight bubbles and flavors of raspberry, red apple peel and orange zest. Nervy and fresh, a light feel but not shy, and has some complex floral perfume, chalk and talc notes. This is reliable and delicious stuff and so reasonably priced. All Pinot Noir aged 12-18 months on the lees, 12 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Le Black Réserve Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Light gold color. Smells of lemons, kiwi and quince, along with lovely floral and mountain stream elements. The palate is crisp and light with lemons, green apples and limes, along with flinty, limestone and mineral elements. Zippy but nice fresh, crunchy bread elements. Light but fun. 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (88 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne 1760 Le Rosé - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Gorgeous salmon color with a nose of red apples and wild raspberry mixed with dried rose petals, tomato leaf, white pepper, talc and honey. The palate is tart and tart with dusty, salty, brightness and tones of raspberries white cherry and McIntosh apple. Salty, floral, honeyed and mint elements add complexity. Fresh and floral but shows a lot of depth as well. 53% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Lanson Champagne Green Label - France, Champagne
SRP: $75
Rich yellow color. The nose pops with green apples and lemons, chalk dust, honeysuckle along with limestone and sea salt. Crisp and fresh with green apples, lemons, along with graham cracker, honey and some chalky, flinty elements. Delightful, accessible, a fun, fresh, quite complex mix of  Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. (90 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Light yellow color. An invigorating nose of saline, limestone and chalk mixed with yellow apples, lemons, biscuits and croissants. The palate is racy and crisp but shows a lovely depth of texture as well. Lemons, yellow apples and orange peel mix so well with chalky, salty, briny tones, and these deeper tones of bread dough and shaved ginger. Precise, beautiful stuff – there’s a lot of clarity and depth here. Aged four years sur lie, 5 g/l dosage. (92 points)

2015 Frank Family Vineyards Blanc de Blancs - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium yellow color. Lovely nose of lemon curd and yellow apples with chalk dust, nougat, bread dough, some flinty tones. Creamy yet zesty on the palate with a chalky, flinty vibe that supports lemons, yellow apple and kiwi fruit. Pure, focused, dry and bright with a lot of complexity. An impressive iteration of Chardonnay sparkling wine from Frank Family. (91 points)

2016 Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Medium copper color. The nose shows a crunchy, focused appeal with lemons, red apple and white cherry, along with notes of fresh baguette, honeysuckle and white flowers. On the palate this is zesty and bright with lemons, raspberry and white cherries, along with a host of doughy, white flowers, chalk dust. So good, focused, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, a delight of a sparkler. (90 points)


Red Wines

2020 Tooth & Nail “Stasis” Carbonic Zinfandel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District
SRP: $46
Vibrant ruby color. So fresh and fun on the nose with cherries and plums, mixed with sweet violets, rose petals, pepper and cocoa. Zesty acid, dusty tannins and a juicy core of cherries and raspberries. I love the farmer’s market mix of herbs and flowers, along with notes of clay, tobacco, pepper. It’s lively as heck but has solid textural depth as well. Fun and crushable but memorable and complex, too – loving this style. From Tooth and Nail’s estate vineyard in Paso’s Willow Creek AVA. (90 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Syrah “Destinata” - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $29
Pretty violet color. The nose is airy and open with wild raspberries and juicy blueberries along with roses, violets and cola. The palate has this plush feel with smooth tannins and zesty acidity. Gorgeous blueberry, raspberry and cherry, crunchy yet deep fruit. Notes of violet petals, warm black tea, pepper and leather add complexity. That carbonic goodness is so fun but the fruit and complexity underneath are legit. A crushable, Beaujolais-inspired Syrah that just rocks. (91 points)

2018 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $62
Deep purple color. A warm, inviting mix of currants and black cherries with dusty earth, clay tobacco, leather, graphite, just a ton going on as it opens up. Full but suave with such vibrant acidity and structured tannins. The fruit is a deep but crunchy mix of tart currants and juicy cherries, and the fruit is mixed with delightful mix of earth and graphite, leather and charcoal, roasted red pepper and nuanced cedar. Complex, fresh, beautiful stuff, this will age wonderfully for who-knows-how-long. Includes some Merlot and Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. (94 points)

2018 Sullivan Vineyards Coeur de Vigne - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
SRP: $110
Bright purple color. Exciting yet classic nose of black cherries and currants, laced with savory and spicy tones of leather, black tea, smoked meat, tilled soil – a lot to unpack here. Crisp acidity frames the wine well against solid, grippy tannins and a core of deep currants, plums and blackberries. The complexities are really impressive: black tea, light roast coffee, tar, violets, tobacco and roasted bell pepper. There’s also this flinty, graphite and iron mystique that underlines the whole thing. Deep yet vibrant, this deserves age, time and your attention. Includes 20% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in 65% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Monday, December 14, 2020

Wine Reviews: Holiday Treats

It’s been a long year, and this is a very different holiday season. But I hope you and yours are safe, healthy, and have an enjoyable holiday season, whatever you are celebrating.

In the spirit of the holidays, I’ve gathered up a collection of wines from all over the world that could add some cheer in the coming winter.

From one of the brightest, most complex Soaves I’ve tried in a long time, to Quilceda Creek’s second wine and the new vintage of Napa’s Cardinale, I’ve found some beauties. Merry Edwards’ first vintage of a Sauvignon Blanc dessert wine is absolutely delicious, and worth checking out, especially if you (like me) are a fan of their classic Sauv Blanc.

There’s some Champagne and other bubbles, of course. And if you’re not up for opening a full bottle, this report also includes several 375ml examples that are widely available in the U.S.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Pieropan Soave Classico Calvarino - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Plush but inviting nose of peach, guava, lime, topped in hay, white flowers, mint and chalk dust. Creamy texture on the palate is beautiful, while crisp acidity keeps it focused and bright, backed up with these plump peach and yellow apple fruit, drizzled with lie. The complexity here is great, with mineral, chalk, sandstone, hay and lemon verbena. Zest, focused, complex, stony, with a long, harmonious finish. This is killer single-vineyard Soave. (91 points)

2019 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $13/375ml
Light yellow color. Lively aromas of lemon, guava and ruby red grapefruit, with subtle herbal, peppery tones, white flowers in the mix as well. Ripe and plush on the palate with flavors of grapefruit, white peach and guava, accented with daisies and honeysuckle. A ripe and spicy feel but balanced and nuanced as well. (88 points)

2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $13/375ml
Rich yellow color. Aromas of honeyed pears and apples, cinnamon crumb cake, but also some lively lemon and chalky tones. Creamy, juicy texture on the palate, moderating acidity, with flavors of yellow apples and lemon curd. Notes of honey, cinnamon and almond are woven in well, and notes of yellow flowers and chalk add vibrancy. Forward but harmonious, and a solid value Napa Chardonnay. (89 points)

2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Blanc - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Nose of white peaches and yellow plums, along with spicy oregano and mint, honey and clover. Juicy, peachy and tropical on the palate, but fresh and crisp throughout. Yellow apples, white peaches, lemon and papaya, this is a juicy but zippy wine tossed with cucumber slices, floral perfume and honeysuckle. There’s a lot going on here for the price. (88 points)

Sparkling, rosé & dessert wines

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Extra-Brut Rosé Première Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Light salmon color. So bright and brisk with the nosewith wild raspberry and strawberry, along with watermelon rind, topped in crushed shells, chalk dust, hints of white pepper and tomato leaf. Precise and focused on the palate with racy acidity and bright appeal, along with solid textural depth. Grapefruit, strawberry, raspberry and red apple peel fruit mix well with chalk, talc and crushed shell tones. Notes of white pepper and ginger add complexity to this brisk, delightful rosé. Mostly Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Bouzy, Mailly or Les Riceys, along with Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, with a 6 g/l dosage. (91 points)

2019 Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu'ile de Saint-Tropez Côtes de Provence Fleur de Mer Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $13/375ml
Deep copper color. Bright and chalky on the nose with sea salt and dandelion over top strawberry, watermelon and white cherry fruit. Fresh and plump texture on the palate, but bright acidity, with flavors of white peach and guava. Notes of yellow flowers, green tea and honey mix in well. Fruity but vibrant, a fun, versatile rosé. (87 points)

N.V. La Marca Prosecco - Italy, Veneto / Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $11/375ml
Light yellow color. Nose pops with peaches, limes, honeysuckle, and crushed sweet tarts. Light and fresh with moderate acidity and flavors of peaches in honey, candied orange peel, shaved lemon. Nots of floral perfume and crushed sweet tarts mix with a hint of mint. Fun, straightforward, crowd-friendly stuff. (85 points)

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light salmon color. Aromas of strawberries and watermelon, McIntosh apple, with chalky, seashell tones, spicy oregano and wildflowers. Fine bubbles on the palate, a round and tropical feel but fresh, too. Red apples, apricot, strawberry, mixed in with green and white teas, talc, mint. Juicy and fun but shows a good amount of complexity as well. 57% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay, 6% Pinot Meunier, 12 g/l dosage. (88 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest
- USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $48/375ml
Rich yellow color. An explosion of peachy goodness on the nose with guava, orange marmalade, candied ginger, white tea and honey. Plush texture on the palate, with moderating acidity, a rich and honeyed texture, with guava and orange marmalade, yellow plums. Delicious tones of candied ginger, almond cake, unctuous yet shows vibrancy underneath. This is a delicious and complex wine, and the first harvest of this noble rot Sauv Blanc from the Maefield Vineyard Merry planted in 2015. An exceptional holiday choice or bury it in the cellar. (93 points)

Red wines

2016 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
SRP: $65
Medium ruby color. The nose shows suave cherries, red currants, topped in a complex host of leather, pepper, grilled steak, clove, with underlying mushroom and rose petal tones. Medium/full-bodied with solid, grippy tannins and racy acidity. A deep but tart core of black cherries and red currants, chewy, ripe but fresh, and topped in elements of menthol, tar, smoky earth, pepper, mushroom and rose petals. This needs at least a few years or a good decant, but is balanced well and has a lot to offer. (90 points)

2017 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Multi-Appellation - USA, California
SRP: $13/375
Medium ruby color. Aromas of jammy strawberries and cherry pie, cola and rhubarb on top. On the palate, this has velvety tannins, medium-low acidity, and plenty of juicy fruit (raspberries, red plums, cherry cheesecake). Notes of cola, caramel, rose petals, even some earth and herbal tones keep this interesting. Fun accessible, value-driven stuff. Fruit sourced from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Sonoma Counties. (86 points)

2017 Cardinale
- USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $325
Deep purple color. The nose shows waves of fresh, deep, tangy black currants and cherries, tossed with warm clay, tobacco, potting soil, roasted chestnut, oregano and hot chocolate – it’s a fascinating, diverse, shifting display of aromas. On the palate, this is full but fresh, structured but smooth tannins, and the acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. Plums, cherries, currants, deep but vibrant fruit laced with tobacco, mint, anise, cigar box, tobacco and coffee. Underlying graphite and mineral tones add this integrated, profound feel. This will do excellent things over the next five to 10 years. (96 points)

2017 Barra of Mendocino Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. Boisterous aromas of blackberry and blueberry jam, with smoky earth, dark chocolate, clove and violet petals. Juicy and fun on the palate, warm and inviting with smooth tannins, medium acidity keeps it active. Plummy, blackberry puree and roasted fig tones, mixed with coffee, rocky earth, tilled soil and dark chocolate shavings. Deep but not heavy, stays fresh. Solid value here for near-term wintertime drinking. All Petite Sirah, 14.5% alcohol. (88 points)

2017 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Annapolis Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $110
Light purple color. Deep and saucy aromas of black cherries, dark plums, with lots of interesting mesquite, black pepper, rose petals and leather tones. Full, polished on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity that balances the deep, ripeness of the black cherries and plum cake fruit. Violets, gravelly earth, lots of concentration here with tones of black pepper glaze, dark chocolate and mesquite. A Pinot for Syrah-lovers for sure, and this needs serious time or a decant, but it has a lot going on. (91 points)

2017 Quilceda Creek CVR Columbia Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $70
Medium purple color. Deep and saucy aromatic display of red and black currants and cherries, laced with mesquite, tobacco, rocky earth, tar and coffee tones. Full-bodied, suave but structured, juicy but shows vibrant acidity. A smooth, deep yet tangy display of currant and black cherries, with a complex mix of graphite, loamy earth and rocky tones, iron, tobacco, with these nuances of cocoa powder and vanilla. This could use a few years or give it a really good decant if drinking soon. Cabernet Sauvignon with 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. A delicious, less expensive way to experience the Quilceda Creek goodness. (93 points)

Saturday, February 29, 2020

Popping Some Exciting Champagnes



I recently had the pleasure to attend a wine dinner at Le Cafe Descartes at the French Embassy in Washington, DC. The dinner, focused on the Bordeaux estate Domaine de Chevalier, was organized by my friend and Bordeaux wine guru Panos Kakaviatos. 

But, before the dinner, attendees brought some Champagne for popping, and I had a blast tasting through some interesting bottles. 

This was something of an embarrassment of riches, but I was happy to taste these wines and jot down some notes, which are below.

Cheers to good Champagne!

N.V. Champagne Lallier Champagne Grand Cru Zero Dosage - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Super chalky with notes of quinine, crushed oyster shells, limes and lemons. Intense and bright, but perhaps lacks a bit of depth to the fruit to balance the zero dosage. Still a lovely take, though. (90 
points)

2004 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Wow, this was everything I was hoping it would be. Rich, biscuity, doughy, lots of apples and lemon curd fruit, but the richness is matched with briskness, brightness, depth, minerality. Gorgeous, deep fruit, lots of minerals and chalk. Showing well but built for the long haul. (95 
points)

2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut - France, Champagne
Loving the red fruits (raspberry, strawberry) mixing with the brisk, salty, chalky elements. Good amount of musk, spiced tea, rose potpourri, hints of mushroom coming out. Lots of evolution ahead but beautiful stuff. (94 
points)

2006 Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne Brut Cuvée Palmes d'Or - France, Champagne
Broad, concentrated, and bready, but also shows brightness, zestiness, minerality. Baked apple, toast, biscuits, chalk, honey. Bold but inviting, I'd like to see what happens to this in five to eight years. (93 
points)

2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
Deep nose of apricot, graham crackers, biscuits, sea salt. Nervy yet dense on the palate, the apricot, quince mixes with toasty bread, saline, crushed shells. Lots going on, seems young and a bit dense, but beautiful. (93 
points)

2006 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Fleuron - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Lively but leesy on the nose. Nougaty, doughy richness on the palate meets bright acidity and chalk, citrus peel, honeyed notes. (93 
points)

2008 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Fleuron - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Nervy and bright, this had a lot of similar riffs as the 2006, but a bit less opulence perhaps. (92 points)

Sunday, December 8, 2019

Holiday Bubbles Round-Up: Champagne, Prosecco & Cava

The holiday season is in full swing — the lights, the commercials and jingles, shopping, all that stuff. And, right on cue, I’ve been receiving a lot of bubbles for review.

Of course, good bubbles (especially Champagne) are good year-round, but popping the cork on a bottle of fizzy wine during the holidays, with family and friends, it really never gets old.

To help with the holiday sparkling wine shopping, I have a nice mix of sparkling wines this week. I recently tasted through some delightful Champagne, to some surprisingly good Proseccos, and some value-driven Cavas. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.


N.V. Palmer & Co Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
SRP: $60
Rich yellow color. Bold nose of yellow pears, lemon curd, honey, ginger, but also a nice mix of crushed chalk and shells. Bright acidity meets nice creamy texture on the palate, a broad fruit assortment (apple, apricot, lemon). Nice amount of complexity in the form of sea spray, chalk dust, minerals. Biscuit and honey notes woven in well. Gains depth and complexity with air. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and about 15% Pinot Meunier, aged four years on the lees, 8 g/l dosage. (90 points)

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Rosé Brut Première Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $60
Medium copper color. Chalky, biscuit, sea salty nose with lemon, red apple and apricot fruit, a slight, pleasant musky note. Nervy and brisk on the palate but broad texture, with crunchy red apple, juicy raspberry and strawberry, and nuanced notes of spiced tea, chalk. Brisk but toasty, zesty but plenty of fruit – seems like a holiday crowd-pleaser of a rose Champagne for sure. Pinot Noir with some Chardonnay, the blend includes reserve wine dating back to 1985, aged 3 years sur lie. 6 g/l dosage, disgorged July 2018. (91 points)

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature - France, Champagne
SRP: $100
Deep gold color. Super bright on the nose, with a chalky, dusty, mineral, saline infusion, along with sea spray, white flowers, lemon curd and tart apricot. On the palate, this is nervy and precise with a lot of focus. It is has a knife’s edge briskness throughout, yet enough depth and creamy texture for balance, and nuanced bready doughy notes. Apricot, lemon curd and lime, topped in minerals, crushed shells, quinine and white flower tones. This is a brand new cuvee from L-P (their first in 30 years), and they’ve managed to pull off a really good Brut Nature, here. Chardonnay sourced from the Côte des Blancs (Avize, Cramant, Oiry, Chouilly) and Montagne de Reims (Tours-sur-Marne, Villers-Marmery, Rilly La Montagne), aged about six years before disgorgement. (92 points)

N.V. Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Prosecco Val D'Oca - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco
SRP: $13
Pal lemon color. Aromas of white peaches, topped in wildflowers, white tea, nettle and sweet tarts. Crisp on the palate, juicy but tart, with white peaches, lemon and kiwi fruit. Notes of wildflowers and herbs. Food-friendly, simple in a good way, a crisper, dryer style that works well. (87 points)


2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Punto Rosa - Italy, Veneto, Marca Trevigiana IGT
SRP: $13
Pale copper color. Aromas of red apple, cranberry, with some nettle and musky tones. Crisp and light on the palate with bright acidity on a light frame. Punchy red apples, watermelon, strawberries, topped in some chalk and flowers. Pleasant, crowd-pleasing stuff, made from Pinot Nero and Pinot Grigio. (87 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Prosecco Millesiamato Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G.
SRP: $18
Lemon colored. Aromas of quince, lemon and tangerine, along with white tea, crushed sweet tarts, and an interesting musky, spice element. Fleshy texture on the palate but tart acidity. Lime, quince and apricot fruit mixes well with white tea, honey and chalk. There’s some complex floral and spice tones that are quite attractive. (88 points)

2018 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Val D'Oca Brut Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza - Italy, Veneto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
SRP: $33
Pale lemon color. Steely and bright on the nose, with a burst of lemon/lime, kiwi, and an exciting streak of minerals, chalk and dried flowers and herbs. Lovely creamy depth on the palate, but bright acidity keeps it lively and crisp, delightful balance. Ginger, honey, crushed chalk, white flowers, all of this on top of kiwi, lemon and green apple. This is a really impressive Prosecco that surprised me. (90 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $15
Medium yellow color. Aromas pop with lemon, lime, honey, some toasted nuts and baguette. Creamy texture on the palate, refreshing acidity, along with lemon crème, yellow apples. Notes of almond, sea salt, freshly baked biscuits. Fun stuff, this delivers a lot for a low price. 50% Macabeo, 35% Parallada, 15% Xarel-lo, 10 g/l residual sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Rosé Delicat Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $16
Deep copper color. Nose of bright strawberries, cranberry, red apple, along with rose petals, some bread dough and peanut notes. On the palate, fresh acid pervades, but there’s good breadth of texture, and a nice mix of juicy strawberry fruit with crunchy red apples. Elements of sea salt, toasted nuts, baguette, and a spice floral tea note add complexity. This has a lot to show for the price. 85% Garnacha, 15% Pinot Noir, 8 g/l residual sugar. (88 points)

Sunday, May 12, 2019

Welcoming Champagne Palmer to the U.S. Market

It’s been a while since I’ve reviewed some Champagne here, so I’m excited to dig back in! This week, I’m tasting some wines from Champagne Palmer.

Champagne Palmer is a cooperative that formed 70 years ago, a combined effort between seven growers in the Montagne de Reims region. They now source wine from hundreds of growers in more than forty different crus. About half of those vineyards are Grand and Premier Crus in the Montagne de Reims, while their other vineyards are located in the Côte de Sézanne, Côte des Bar and Marne Valley.

Cellar Master Xavier Berdin and his four oenologists use three different perpetual reserves (or soleras) to add depth and spice to their wines. The nonvintage cuvées are aged at least three years, while the vintage cuvées spend six to eight years on the lees.

These wines are relatively new to the U.S. market, so I was excited to taste them. I wasn’t disappointed. Don’t let the CM (Coopérative-Manipulant) scare you away — these are precise, zesty, elegant, complex wines. I found a lot of deliciousness and character in these wines, and I’d feel confident recommending them to any American Champagne lover looking for something new.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Palmer & Co Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
SRP: $60
Deep yellow color. The nose shows rich, doughy notes with yellow apples, apricot, lemon curd, topped in hay, chalk dust, ginger and verbena. Lovely depth on the palate, creamy yet bright acidity. Apples and apricots, honey and ginger notes mix with brighter elements of crushed chalk, minerals, sea salt, biscuits, spiced tea. Nice depth and complexity. Sourced from Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in Montagne de Reims. About half Chardonnay with Pinot Noir and about 15% Pinot Meunier, this includes 35% reserve wines. Aged four years on the lees with an 8 g/l dosage. (89 points)

N.V. Palmer & Co Champagne Rosé Reserve - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Deep copper color. Nose shows raspberries, cherries, along with herbal tea, rose petals, musky cologne and chalk dust. Crisp acidity, tons of tiny bubbles, this has a laser-like focus, with lots of lemon, raspberries and tart strawberries. Complex notes of spiced tea, musk, sea salt, sliced cucumber, minerals and chalk dust. Aged two to three years on the lees with an 8g/l dosage, this is an even mix of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with 10-15% Pinot Meunier, includes 35% reserve wines. (90 points)

N.V. Palmer & Co Champagne Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne
SRP: $90
Bold yellow color. The nose shows lovely, biscuity goodness with honeycomb, salted almond, chalk dust, crushed shells, all on top of lemon curd and yellow apples. Bright acidity frames the wine so nicely while rich texture, creamy mouthfeel and find bubbles provide depth. Yellow apples, lemon, apricot, the fruit is blended nicely with sea salt, chalk dust, brioche, salted almond, hints of flowers and musk. Complex, rich yet zesty, the different elements are woven in nicely. Sourced primarily from Montagne de Reims Premier Crus Villers-Marmery and Trépail. Aged five years on the lees with a 7 g/l dosage. (91 points)

2009 Palmer & Co Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $125
Light gold color. The nose boasts lemons, green apples, apricot, mixed with light biscuits, sea salt and ocean spray, with chalk dust and minerals. Bright acidity on the palate yet some creamy depth and very fine bubbles. Limes, lemons, tart apricot, the fruit is blended with a mix of minerals, crusty sea salt, quinine, and I get some toasted baguette, honey, raw almond. A bright Champagne with a pleasant sharpness, but the depth is there as well. I’d love to see what this does with five years in the cellar. An even split between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this spends 8 years on the lees. (91 points)

Saturday, December 15, 2018

Wine Reviews: Sparkling Wines for the Holidays

So, the holiday season is in full swing, and, like every year, the bubbles abound. 

I drink Champagne (and, to a lesser extent, Champagne-method bubbles from other regions) year-round, but the average occurrence of bubbly-popping definitely spikes between Thanksgiving and New Year’s. 

In this report, Champagne gets its due, with some wines from the houses of Bruno Paillard and Laurent Perrier. Gloria Ferrer, the Sonoma bubbly powerhouse, offers up three budget-friendly offerings, and a Santa Barbara sparkler from Lucas & Lewellen impresses. Lastly, a few sparklers from Alsace deliver — Crémant d’Alsace being one of my favorite sources of inexpensive but delicious sparkling wines. 

All of the wines in this report were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. Happy holidays, and I hope the last few days of your 2018 include some lovely Champagne-method wines. 


N.V. Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $22
Light copper color. Nose shows lemons, grapefruit, sea salt, white flowers, some musk notes. Crisp and bright on the palate with fresh acidity, fine bubbles, and very light biscuit notes. Green apples, apricots, wild strawberries, backed up with chalk dust and floral perfume notes. Fresh, bright, these are fun, accessible bubbles for the price. Mostly Pinot Noir with about 14% Chardonnay. (87 points) 


N.V. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $22
Pale copper color. Smells fresh and bright with red apples, raspberries, rose hips and some salted biscuits. Fresh and crisp with a salty, zippy, light appeal. Raspberries, red apple and lemon mix with white flowers, white pepper and sea salt notes. Some sugar adds to the texture and flavor, but it stays fresh and fun for the price. Includes a bit of Chardonnay, this spends 18 months on the lees. (87 points) 


N.V. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Aromas are tart and tangy with limes and green apples, light biscuits, sea salt, with some nettle and honeysuckle. Light and zesty on the palate with fine bubbles, this is fun and fresh with lines and green apples. Saline, chalk, lots of white flowers. Fresh and fun but significant complexity, this is a solid bubbly for holiday parties for sure. Aged two years on the lees, 100% Chardonnay. (88 points) 


2016 Lucas & Lewellen Brut - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $36
Deep yellow color. Nose shows a bunch of honey and graham cracker on top of yellow apples, apricots, and floral perfume. Ooh, this is nice on the palate, some rich texture with honeyed, baked apple elements nice hint of sweetness to the fruit but a brisk appeal. Flowers, graham crackers, honey, chalk, sea salt and toasted bread. A lot of flavor, depth and appeal here. 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay. (90 points) 


N.V. Pierre Sparr Crémant d’Alsace Brut Réserve - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $19
Deep yellow color. On the nose, lots of chalk, sea salt, crushed shells, with lemons, green apples, ginger and baguette notes. Super bright and zesty but some plumpness as well. Crunchy green apples, lemons, limes, doused in chalk, limestone and mountain stream. Ginger, musk, mineral, toasted baguette notes, all of this combines in a bracing but richly textured Crémant that is surprisingly good for the money. 80% Pinot Blanc and 20% Pinot Auxerrois. (89 points) 


N.V. Keuntz-Bas Crémant d'Alsace Brut Tradition - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $18
Deep yellow color. The aromas show lots of honey, salted almond, biscuits, spiced white tea, with apricot and yellow apples. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely but there’s a nice honeyed, biscuity richness as well. Bruised apple and apricot topped in honeyed tea, ginger, sea salt, minerals. Rich but zesty, lovely balance and complexity here, especially when you consider the price point. A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc aged 18 months on the lees. (89 points) 


N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut Nature “Ultra Brut” - France, Champagne
SRP: $80
Medium yellow color. Lots of yellow apples, apricots, lemon curd, with rich honey, toasted biscuits and salted butter, but also bright chalk and sea salt notes. Precise and brisk on the palate with focused acidity but plenty of texture and depth. Apricots, yellow apples, lemons, laced with sea salt, crushed shells, with rich, deep notes of honey, ginger snap, toasted biscuits. The focus, precision and minerality is really impressive, this wine is lip-smackingly tasty with significant complexity. 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, no dosage, aged six years on the lees. (91 points) 


N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Harmony Demi-Sec - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Nose shows rich honey, apricot marmalade, candied ginger and apple peel, some sea salt biscuit notes. Plump and sweet on the palate but shows vibrancy throughout, sugar cane and candied apple notes mix with chalk, dried flowers and limestone. This is rich and sweet but shows liveliness as well, and would pair nicely with pastries or after-dinner cheeses. 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier, 45 g/l dosage. (89 points) 


N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Premiere Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Rich yellow color. Nice mix of chalk, limestone, flowers, with lemons, apricots, and notes of biscuits and toasted almond. Brisk and vibrant on the palate with clean, crisp acidity and lots of minerals and chalk and crushed shells. Flavors of lemons, orange, apricot mix with biscuits, flowers, ginger, and minerals. Lovely, as usual, from Bruno Paillard. From 32 different villages, vinified separately, this wine consists of 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, with at least 25% reserve wine. Disgorged Sept. 2017. (90 points) 


N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Deep yellow color. Brisk nose of sea salt, crushed chalk, white flowers and fresh biscuits on top of lemon curd, green apple, apricot. Pretty, clean and crisp on the palate with salty minerals and high acidity, but some nice depth and texture throughout. Lemon, crunchy apricot and green apples mixed with honey, chalk, mountain streams and minerals. Dry, crunchy, vibrant. Aged four years on the lees, with a 5 g/l dosage. Disgorged October 2016. (91 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Sunday, November 4, 2018

Vibrant, Exciting Champagne from Champagne Lombard


I had not tasted the wines of Champagne Lombard before. After going through some of their Champagnes, I am now a fan.

Stylistically, these Champagnes generally have a lower dosage (or none at all), and a dry, zesty, bracing appeal. The house makes about 15 different cuvees, and I only tasted six, and was especially wowed by the single-vineyard wines.

The house sources grapes from more than 100 hectares of vineyards, farmed by growers throughout the various Champagne regions. They get Chardonnay from Grand Crus Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Avize and Cramant, along with various Premier Cru villages, while the Pinot Noir is sourced largely from the east of the Montagne de Reims. The Grand Cru wines are aged at least 48-60 months before being disgorged, the Premier Cru a bit less.

The house can trace its roots back to Robert Andrieu (grandfather of the current owner), who founded the Société Anonyme de Magenta-Epernay in 1925. Phillipe Lombard took over in 1960 and expanded the winery and cellars in Epernay in 1987. The company is now run by Thierry Lombard.

The Premier Crus are really solid, and a great introduction to the house’s style. I found that the Grand Crus offer a whole lot of personality and depth. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


N.V. Lombard & Cie Champagne Rosé Premier Cru Brut - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Rich salmon color. Aromas show fresh red cherries, strawberries, red apples, and a floral burst of rose and magnolia petals, over some chalky, biscuity notes. Focused, dry and fresh but concentrated but tart red fruits (strawberries, red apples). Musky-floral complexity mixes with a spiced tea and herbal note, and some chalk and bread crumbs. Deep and concentrated yet fresh. An even split between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but 10% of the Pinot Noir is Grand Cru Verzenay fruit vinified as still red wine. Disgorged April 2017. (90 points)


N.V. Lombard & Cie Champagne Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
SRP: $50
Light gold color. Lovely aromas of lemon, quince, apricot, wild strawberries, along with chalk, saline, musky cologne and fresh biscuits. Dry, bracing, precise, with tart lemon, orange pith, apricot pit, along with loads of briskness, saltiness and mineral qualities. Crushed shells, ocean spray, white tea, musky cologne, fresh bread dough. Complex, intense, lots of depth here. All Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims, this was disgorged in October 2016. (90 points)


N.V. Lombard & Cie Champagne Grand Cru Verzenay Brut Nature - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
SRP: $80

Light gold color. Wow, aromatically, this bursts with perfume, flowers, tart green apples, lemons, some strawberries, complex, evolving minerals, salty, shells, chalk dust. Brisk, dry, almost bracing, but lots of depth, too. Lemon, green apples, apricots, with a complex host of chalky, saline-infused, shell-crushed goodness. Almost austere if not for the depth of dough, honey and floral complexities. Pretty, deep, bracing stuff. 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay, aged 48-60 months before disgorgement (this was disgorged June 2017). (92 points)

N.V. Lombard & Cie Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut Nature - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
SRP: $80
Deep yellow color. So bright on the nose, with daisies, honeysuckle and orange blossom, with lots of chalks and sea salt, limestone dust, on top of lemon curd and apples. On the palate, pristine acidity, a bracing and dry appeal, with lots of up-front minerals, chalk and limestone dusty, mountain streams. Bright lemons and limes and green apples mix with complex ginger, sea salt, floral perfume and freshly-baked biscuits. Lots of depth but so lively. A blend of Chardonnay from Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Avize, and Cramant, this was disgorged in June 2017. (92 points)


N.V. Lombard & Cie Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Mesnil-sur-Oger Brut Nature - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
SRP: $80

Light gold color. Aromas shows rich biscuits and bread crumbs, but lots of dusty minerals, like a fine powder of sea salt, limestone, chalk and crushed shells, along with flowers, raw almond, honey, all on top of lemon curd goodness. Precise and focused on the palate with zesty acidity but a lovely depth and richness of texture. Lemon, yellow pears, lime, apricot, this is racy and complex with intermingled flavors of bread crumbs, sea salt, crushed shells, mountain stream, salted almonds. Really, really, good, this is bracing yet packed with depth and flavor. (93 points)

2008 Lombard & Cie Grand Cru Brut Nature - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
SRP: $140
Light gold color. Toasty, salty, deep, complex aromatics, with wildflowers, lemon curd, wild strawberry, shaved ginger, crushed sea shells, a ton going on. So precise and dry on the palate but packed with flavor. Lemons, limes, green apples, topped with bread crumbs, cheese rind and candle wax. Complex elements of saline, limestone, honeysuckle and minerals. Young, deep concentrated, a long life ahead but this is already elegant and beautiful. 80% Chardonnay (from Mesnil-sur-Oger and Avize) and 20% Pinot Noir (from Ambonnay), this is aged 84 months in bottle and disgorged in May 2017. Long life ahead. (93 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, April 28, 2018

Here Come the Rosés! 16 Pink Wines Reviewed


For American wine-lovers, Spring and Summer are prime time for pink wine.

Don’t get me wrong, I love rosé year round. I’ve actually developed a tradition of opening a good rosé on the first big snowstorm of the winter, and it’s a lot of fun. But the shelves of your local wine shop are surely piling up with various pink wines from all over the world, so you should have plenty of options to choose from.

I’ve been receiving lots of rosé wines, so I gathered some up and tasted through them, hoping to find some really good values to share. (Spoiler alert: I did.)

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. It’s not even May yet, so I’m sure I’ll have another round of rosé reviews in the next two months or so. (Literally as I was writing this, I received a knock on the door with, drumroll, more rosé samples to sign for.) If there’s a bubble to burst in American consumers’ love for the pink, I’m not sure we’re there yet.

Check out these rosé wines from around the world below!

SRP: $70
Pale copper color. Aromas of chalk dust, white flowers, rose petals, red apple peel, bread dough. Brisk and tangy on the palate, tart and brisk but lots of depth, with flavors of white cherries, wild strawberries, red apple peel. Blazing streak of minerals in this wine, with chalk dust, sea salt, mixed with toasted baguette and lots of flowers. What a tangy and bright wine, but lovely textural depth as well. Mostly Pinot Noir, this is a blend of 25 vintages going back to 1985. (92 points)

2017 Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Rosé Samorëns - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $15
Light rose color. Smells of fresh white peaches, strawberries, nettle and roses. Crisp and bright but plenty of textural depth. Peaches and watermelon, drizzled in lime, and topped with honeysuckle, dandelion, white tea. Notes of mineral and chalk dust on the finish. Delicious but shows significant complexity. (88 points)

2017 Très Chic Rosé - France, Sud de France
SRP: $17
Pale strawberry color. Nose of strawberries, white cherries, very perfumed with notes of spicy white floral tones. On the palate, this is medium-bodied with bright acidity and juicy texture. Watermelon, white cherries, strawberries, along with bright white and red flowers. Floral, juicy, fresh, solid for the price, surprisingly so. Grenache and Cinsault. (87 points)

2017 Château de Berne Rosé Urban Provence - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $23
Light pink/copper color. Bursts with aromas of peaches, cantaloupe melon, ruby red grapefruit, along with roses, lilies and wet stones. Medium-bodied, richly textured, with bright acidity. Pineapple, peaches and tangy limes blend well with plenty of spicy/herbal elements (nettle, raspberry leaf, white pepper). Crisp but fruity, fun but the complexity shows through. Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. (88 points)

2017 Château de Berne Rosé Inspiration - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $20
Pale pink color. Bursting aromas of passion fruit, strawberries and peaches, topped in roses, spicy nettle and clover. Zesty acidity frames the palate nicely but plump fruit abounds (peaches, strawberries, lemons). Spicy herbal notes, deep floral tones, along with some crust mineral and chalky elements. Lovely Provence pink. Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. (89 points)

2017 Château de Berne Rosé Emotion - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $16
Very pale copper color, like the inside of a grapefruit rind. So fresh and spicy on the nose, with nettle, dandelion, white pepper and honeysuckle, on top of plump peach and green melon. Crisp acidity, plush texture, lots of fruit (white cherry, lemon, peach) laced with white pepper and dandelion. Fresh, fruity, spicy, nice stuff for the price. Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. (87 points)

2017 Kim Crawford Rosé Hawkes Bay - New Zealand, North Island, Hawke's Bay
SRP: $18
Bright watermelon color. Fresh and floral with watermelon, white cherries, strawberries, with white pepper, chalk dust, red gummy candies and roses. Bright texture, fresh and juicy texture, a zesty and fresh attitude with juicy strawberries, watermelon, nectarine. Notes of white pepper, cut flower stems, cucumber slices and gummy candy, yet dry and fresh. Fun, high-quality, Merlot rosé. (88 points)

2017 Hearst Ranch Winery Rosé Julia - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $22
Deep copper color. Very floral on the nose with roses, honeysuckle, dandelion, peaches and red apples. Crisp acidity on a medium-bodied frame, but plenty of rich texture here, and white peaches, raspberry, white cherries. Lots of flowers packed in here (roses, honeysuckle, wild clover), along with some dusty mineral tones. Goes down so easily despite significant complexity. A Paso kitchen sink blend of Syrah, Malbec, Tempranillo, Petit Vedot, Grenache, Petite Sirah. (89 points)

2017 Booker Vineyard Pink - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $50
By far the darkest “pink” wine in this report, this looks like melted raspberry cough drops in color. The nose has a lot to show: roses, raspberries, spiced cranberry sauce, cinnamon. Plump texture on the palate (14% alcohol) but the acidity moderates everything nicely. Raspberries, currants, cranberry jam fruit, this is a dark-fruited wine with lots of roses, clove rooibos tea. So rich, and a total stylistic outlier here, but Booker pulls it off. It ain’t cheap, and it ain’t a lightweight, but it’s delicious and well made. Grenache with 8% Syrah, this spends five days on the skins. (90 points)

2017 Lucas & Lewellen Pinot Noir Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $18
Light watermelon color. Spicy green herbs and bright roses mix with strawberry and white cherry. On the palate, this is crisp and bright with a smooth texture and tart strawberry fruit, some juicier cherry and yellow plum. A bright, spicy appeal with some floral and mineral undertones. Lively, crisp, delicious, attractive at its price point. Includes 6% Viognier. (88 points)

2017 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Noir Rosato Morning Dew Ranch - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $39
Pale pink color. Bright aromas of lemons, limes, grapefruit, dandelion, lilies, and white pepper (a lot going on!). Tangy as hell, medium-bodied, with flavors of peaches, limes and nectarine. The mineral, quinine, limestone and chalk dust elements are really complex, and I get a mix of spicy white pepper, barley, oregano as well. Complex, zesty, fruity, mineral-driven, balanced so nicely. All Pinot Noir that is fermented and aged in concrete eggs. (90 points)

2017 Scotto Cellars Dry Sangiovese Rosé - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $18
Medium watermelon color. Nose shows juicy cherries, strawberries along with lemon verbena, white pepper, and bubble gum. Plump texture with fresh acidity, lots of peaches, strawberries, white cherries, watermelon fruit. I also get notes of rose petals, bubble gum, white pepper, nettle. Fun, juicy, fruity, spicy, quite good stuff! 13% alcohol. (88 points)


2017 McCay Cellars Grenache Rosé - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $18
Bright pink color. Aromas of crisp strawberries, white cherries, watermelon rind, nettle and rose petals. Medium-bodied (12.5% alcohol) with refreshing acidity and a good amount of depth. Tangy white cherries, honeydew, watermelons and peaches, richly fruity but laced with light, spicy, floral elements (which tea, honeysuckle, raspberry busy). Well-balanced, lovely stuff, per usual from McCay Cellars. (90 points)

2017 St. Amant Winery Barbera Rosé - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $15
Bright cherry juice color. Bursting aromas of strawberry jam, candied apple peel, cinnamon sticks and rose petals. Bold and juicy on the palate with fresh acidity and plenty of raspberry and strawberry jam, candied apple. I get notes of spiced tea and cinnamon candies. Sweet fruit but nice and lively, too. (87 points)

2017 d'Art Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé - USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $22
Bright raspberry color. Nose of crisp strawberries, roses, candied cherries, sweet red flowers, cinnamon sticks. Plump texture, this is a big pink wine at 14.8% with medium acidity and rich, vinous notes of red cherries and raspberries. I get notes of spiced, honeyed tea and sweet roses. This is a bold rosé that I’m thinking would pair nicely with a whole spread of charcuterie. (87 points)

2017 Long Shadows Wineries Julia's Dazzle Rosé Benches Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. Lots of peaches and apricots on the nose, with green apples, cotton candy and nettle. Juicy and full of fruit on the palate (apricot, ultra ripe white peaches), but the wine stays fresh and balanced. Notes of honeycomb, dandelion and nettle accentuate the fruit. A nice pink Pinot Gris. (87 points)