Fortified wines for Autumnal times

I am so stoked about Autumn! Here in the Mid-Atlantic the leaves are peaking and I’ve been waking up early on cool, crisp mornings whenever possible to go birdwatching, hiking, climbing, really anything outside. It’s all wonderful to me this time of year.

October in Shenandoah National Park.

Halloween is just around the corner as well, and sugary sweets and spooky fun abounds. Don’t worry – I’m not writing about pairing wine with Halloween candy. No thanks. But, this week I want to highlight some frightfully delicious fortified wines that would make a great adult treat for this time of year.

Tawny Port is such a fun style, from the younger, more accessible – but highly delicious – offerings, to the richer, nuttier, more savory styles of longer-aged wines, there’s a lot of unique flavors and variations to explore. To start, I think it works best to pick a producer and see if their style aligns with your palate.

Dow’s is one of my favorite Port houses, ever since I bought two 2003 Vintage Ports upon release – the first time I spent more than $80 on a bottle of wine. (They’re still both sleeping, of course, and will for years to come.) While their Vintage Ports are well-known and heralded, the Tawnies really rock, too. And this week I have three to choose from. 

And I can’t forget Sherry. But let’s focus on a dry wine, shall we? The Tio Pepe brand from Gonzalez-Byass offers several of these Spanish delicacies, but their dry Palomino Fino is bright, zesty, and makes for such pleasant sipping. Bring out the bleu cheese and Marcona almonds for this one. 

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

Dow’s 10-Year Tawny Port - Portugal, Douro, Porto 
SRP: $45
Rich, deep ruby/tawny color. The nose exudes roasted figs, sweet dates, candied pecans, along with toffee, notes of honeyed tea, and some clove and light roast coffee. The palate is rich and suave with a mouthfeel moderated by the acidity, and flavors of yellow raisins, plum compote, and dried mango. Sweet but vibrant tannins with nuances of black tea, salted caramel, milk chocolate, and toffee. So smooth and pleasant. (91 points)

Dow’s 20-Year Tawny Port - Portugal, Douro, Porto 
SRP: $78
Beautiful amber color. The nose smells of warm rooibos tea, caramel, apple pie, along with clove, roasted nuts, toffee, and hints of earth and clay. The palate is plush and sweet with a lovely depth of texture and fresh acidity to keep things balanced out nicely. Flavors of fig paste, apple butter, candied orange peels, along with nuances of toffee, dark chocolate, and some cigar box. Suave, deep, complex, yet refreshing and so fun to sip. Lovely stuff. (93 points)

Dow’s 30-Year Tawny Port - Portugal, Douro, Porto 
SRP: $175
Deep auburn color. The nose is exquisite, as the nuances and depth are dialed up even more. I get dates, figs, candied apple, orange peel, along with toasted nuts, vanilla bean, cinnamon crumb cake, and salted caramel – lovely! The palate is suave, rich, and deep yet expressive and vibrant, and balanced wonderfully. Baked figs, dates, and yellow raisins for days. The fruit is backed up with honey, black tea, salted caramel, cinnamon crumb cake, crème brulee, and even some cool black tea, leather, and cigar shop tones. Harmonious, expressive, and simply beautiful. A sip of this lasts for a really long time. This on a cold night with some loved ones – a perfect idea. (95 points)

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Palomino Fino Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Tío Pepe (Muy Seco-Extra Dry) - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Aromas of oyster shell, salt brine, lemon, quince, papaya, with elements of corn husk, candle wax, and almond skin – a lot to sniff, ponder, and enjoy. The palate shows racy acidity with a briny, spicy appeal and a creamy, waxy texture. Flavors of lemon, orange peel, and green apple, and the fruit is laced with tones of almond, honey, oyster shells, crushed limestone, and sea salt. Fun, bright, dry, bracing, but shows delightful texture and complexity, and finishes with tones of green herbs and white tea. Delicious, versatile, would be good at pretty much any time and for any occasion. And a great value. (90 points)

Wine Reviews: Autumnal Selections

Where I live, in the U.S. Mid-Atlantic, it’s finally starting to feel like autumn, my favorite season. After a hot, humid summer, I’m excited for autumnal weather, food, and wines. 

The fall samples have been rolling in these past few weeks, and I’ve curated a selection of wines that would pair well with warm harvest meals, cool nights, and all that watching leaves change kinda stuff. 

There’s a nice Mosel Riesling in this report, which I always enjoy around this time of year. Oregon offers up two delicious wines: a Vermentino from biodynamic Applegate Valley producer Troon, who seems to continually ace this variety; and a Brut Rosé from Gran Moraine, whose Pinots and Chardonnays I’ve enjoyed many times.

 Chianti Ruffina’s Fattoria Selvapiana (which has been in the same family’s hands since the 1880s) delivers some serious value Sangiovese in this report. These wines show wide appeal, and I could see them fitting well on any big family table. And a zesty, savory Schiava from the Dolomites deserves attention for its food- and budget-friendly vibes.

Lastly, Gonzalez Byass, the large Sherry house, comes through with a few wines that should warm you up as winter approaches. 

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.  

Germany

2018 Weingut Nik Weis/St. Urbans-Hof Bockstein Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
SRP: $26
Rich gold color. Big and tropical on the nose with apricot, white peach and lime, topped in fresh white and yellow flowers, mint, new tennis balls, and crushed rock notes. Medium-bodied, moderate sweetness balances off tingling acidity for a well-balanced Riesling. Peaches and papaya, drizzled in lime, topped in yellow flowers and honeycomb. There’s a lively streak of mountain stream and mineral that underlines the wine. Delicious, quite complex, this should age nicely over the next five years. (88 points) 

Italy

2018 Alois Lageder Vernatsch-Schiava - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vigneti delle Dolomiti
SRP: $16
Pale ruby color. Bright, spicy and floral nose, showing rose petals, tobacco, rhubarb and paprika on top of red cherries and pomegranate. Crisp and bright and light on the palate, but not lacking in flavor or complexity at all. Dusty tannins back up tangy cherry and pomegranate fruit, and I get complex notes of spiced cranberry sauce, rose petals, rhubarb, with earthy, soy notes. Underling mineral and chalk elements. If you’re in the mood for something lighter, floral and spicy from Alto Adige and don’t like spending money, this is a serious contender. 11% alcohol, aged six months in concrete. Made from the Schiava (or Vernatsch) grape. (89 points) 

2016 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. Spicy nose, with lots of tobacco, eucalyptus, mint, pepper and leather on top of tangy currants, dark plums, with some cocoa, too. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Crunch red cherries and plums mix with flavors of smoky tobacco, grilled herbs, violets and scorched earth. This is fresh, lively and accessible but also quite complex, and offers a lot in this price range. Drink in the near term. 95% Sangiovese with a combined 5% Canaiolo, colorino and Malvasia Nera. (88 points) 

2014 Fattoria Selvapiana Pomino Villa Petrognano - Italy, Tuscany, Pomino
SRP: $21
Deep ruby color. Juicy aromas of red cherries and currants mix with violets, graphite, wild herbs, tomato leaf and tobacco. Nice grip, this is full-bodied but not too heavy, and shows surprisingly vibrant acidity. Lots of smoky, charcoal, graphite and mineral tones underline the beautiful red and black fruit. Violets, clove, earth, wild herbs and cocoa powder and cedar, this has a lot going on. Needs a few years of cellar time or good decant if you’re drinking it soon, but this has a lot to show for its price point. 60% Sangiovese with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, aged 29 months in French oak. (90 points) 

2015 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina
SRP: $36
Medium ruby color. Nose shows vibrant cherries and raspberries, along with rose petals, mint, spicy oregano and paprika elements. Full-bodied, solid tannic grip, but moderating acidity. Currants and black cherries (the fruit is rich and round but shows nuance). I get black olive, clove, mint, tobacco and charcoal accents, along with some coffee and wood notes woven in well. Lovely, concentrated yet vibrant, this needs at least a few years in the cellar. 100% Sangiovese aged 32 months in French oak. (90 points) 

Spain

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Sherry Tio Pepe Fino 'En Rama' 2019 - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $20
Lemon peel color. Classic aromas of sea salt, green olive, ocean spray, on top of lemon peel, apricot, shaved ginger, hay and honeycomb. The palate is full but so crisp and zesty, with deep texture and vibrant acidity. Lemon and orange peel mix with complex nuances of sea salt, oyster brine, crushed shells and chalk, ginger, green olive, spiced tea. Lovely depth and complexity, this begs for all sorts of delicious foods but I was craving grilled oysters specifically while tasting this. Great value. (90 points) 

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Sherry Amontillado Viña AB - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $25
Deep gold color. Aromas of sea salt, almond, hay and ginger, on top of candied orange peel, apricot marmalade, lemon zesty. Crisp acidity, round, deep texture, waxy yet lively feel. The wine integrated and balanced very well. Orange peel, apricot, mixed with ginger, almond, hay, candlewax, white tea. Lush, harmonious, a solid Amontillado that offers a lot for the price. 16.5% alcohol, <4 grams of residual sugar, aged 12 years in oak casks. (90 points)

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Pedro Ximénez Sherry Noé 30 Years - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $50/375ml
Deep brown color. Nose of sweet dates, roasted figs, caramel, lush and rich with cocoa, violets, clove and marmalade notes. Full-bodied, plush, sweet and unctuous with medium acidity. Plum cake, roasted figs, sweet dates, glazed, goopy fruit, mixed with flavors of bitter chocolate, clove, cedar and roasted chestnuts. Rich, deep, delicious stuff, the acidity really helps keep this densely sweet wine vibrant. 100% Pedro Ximenez, aged 30 years in solera. (91 points) 

United States

2018 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Aromatically, this is pretty as all heck, with lots of white and yellow flowers, white tea, sea salt, raw almond, on top of lemon and apricot. Wide breadth of texture, so pretty, with a waxy, creamy, yet zippy feel. Pure and deep but vibrant with crisp acidity, and delicious lemon, apricot and peach fruit. Notes of mint, herbal tea, crushed chalk, white flowers, minerals and quinine add all sorts of complexity. Troon has been killing it with Vermentino for a while now, and this is another example of their mastery of the grape. Not to mention the crazy value here. Fermented and aged in old French oak, with maloactic fermentation. (92 points)

N.V. Gran Moraine Pinot Noir Brut Rosé - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $55
Pale copper color. Complex but airy on the nose, with white cherry, strawberry, grapefruit, topped in wildflowers, hay, honey, with salty, oyster shell notes. Nervy and crisp on the palate with fine bubbles – dry, brisk, salty, bright appeal. Strawberry, white cherry and red apple peel, mixed with chalk, saline but plenty of doughy, honey, almond notes, too. Delicious, complex, bright stuff. Chardonnay with 43% Pinot Noir, fermented in a mix of old French oak and stainless steel, aged 24 months on the lees. (92 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The Timeless Deliciousness of Gonzalez-Byass Sherries

Gonzalez-Byass is almost synonymous with Sherry. Dating back to 1835, the renowned Sherry firm began as a partnership between Manuel María González Ángel and a British importer Robert Blake Byass. Gonzalez’s pale fine sherry, Tio Pepe, made a big impression in the British market, and Gonzalez-Byass continued to gain traction with a big focus on the export market.

Today, the winery is still run by Gonzalez family members, and they’ve expanded into other regions of Spain as well, like Bodegas Beronia in Rioja.

These Sherries power on, and provide a lot of quality, value, and some historical perspective. Fino Sherries have a lot of fans today, of which I am most certainly one, and it’s interesting to think about how these wines have found fans all over the world, over the course of several centuries. It’s nice, I guess, to see some good things change very little over time.

I recently received four samples from Gonzalez-Byass, and found them all to be excellent. I tasted these wines sighted. Notes below.

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Fino “Tio Pepe En Rama 2018” - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $27/750ml bottle
Light gold color. Awesome aromas of sea salt, olive brine, dried seaweed and jetty rocks, along with ginger, herbal liqueur and baked apple tart. Full but bright, creamy but focused, rich but a racy, saline quality throughout. Salted almond, green olives, candied orange peel, candied ginger, salted almond, jetty rocks and crushed seashells, with some green herbs thrown in, too. The complexity is so impressive, especially at this price point. This wine sees four or five years in Soleras, but has so much depth already. Wow. All Palomino grapes, 15% alcohol, 10.5 g/l of residual sugar. (91 points)

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Sherry Palo Cortado “Leonor” 12 Años - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $25/750ml
Deep amber color. Loving the aromatic mix of green olives, candle wax, sea salt, with richer notes of honey, graham cracker, apricot, lemon meringue. Texturally, this is rich and seductive but vibrant acidity and a dry feel keeps it bright and clean. Baked apple, apricot and salted lemon blend well with olive brine, sea salt, ginger, musky cologne, along with graham cracker and ginger. Gutsy but elegant at the same time. All Palomino grapes, 20% alcohol, about 6 g/l of residual sugar. (91 points)

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Sherry Palo Cortado “Apostoles” 30 Años - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $50/375ml
Deep amber color. Aromas show apricot jam, baked apples, glazed pears, along with honey, graham cracker and salted almond. Rich, full and suave but fresh, too. Flavors of sweet yellow plums along with complex notes of candied ginger, maple syrup. There’s a combination of sea salt and salted almond that is really intriguing. Rich but nervy, and totally delicious. Made from Palomino with 13% Pedro Ximenez. 20% alcohol and 50 grams/liter of residual sugar. (92 points)

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Pedro Ximénez Sherry “Noé” 30 Años - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $50/375ml
Dark brown color. Aromas of figs, plum cake, berry compote, along with dark chocolate, anise, ginger snap, a lot going on. So rich and sweet on the palate but the acidity helps. Flavors of plum cake, fig paste, lots of coconut shavings, crème brulee and caramel. Plush, rich, intensely sweet, concentrated, yet nuanced. 15.5% alcohol, more than 400 grams/liter of residual sugar. (92 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Bubbles, Port & Sherry

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

American bubbles, Champagne, Sherry, Port, some samples are distinct in style and sporadic enough that they don’t fit into a designated category. Although, most of these bottles scream: Invite people over and open me!

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Cuvée 20 - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $28
A pale gold color. Juicy and fresh on the nose, lots of buttered biscuit mixes with ripe oranges and tangerines, hints of sea breeze. Ripe yet bright on the palate with medium acid and some sweetness. Crunchy apples and tangerine flavors, some minerals, notes of chalk and sea shell. A wine that covers all the bases very well, perhaps a California bubbly that could work with a lot of palates. 54% Chardonnay, 44% Pinot Noir and 2% Pinot Meunier. (87 points)

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $38
Pale salmon color, lots of fine mousse. Bready and yeasty on the nose with sliced McIntosh apples, wild strawberries, mixed white and red floral notes. Tangy on the palate, bright acid, subtle creaminess that lingers onto the finish. Hints of mineral and mountain spring on top of red apple and strawberries. Dry and clean on the finish. A refreshing and complex rose sparkler. About half-half Pinot and Chardonnay with some Meunier dashed in. (88 points)

 N.V. Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
SRP: $34
Light gold color. Golden and green apples on the nose, mixing with sweet flowers. Orange peel, apricot and grapefruit on a medium-bodied frame with fine bubbles. Fresh acid, not super tangy or aggressive, but not soft either. Grapefruit, apricot, golden apples, some sea salt and toasted baguette. Fresh, playful, not the deepest Champagne but good quality stuff. (88 points)

N.V. Jacquart Champagne Brut Mosaïque - France, Champagne
SRP: $38
Pale golden color. Very bready, doughy nose, a bit of sunflower seed and peanut shell, mixes with notes of green and yellow apple peel. With time some daisies and honeysuckle come out. Medium bodied, pleasantly tangy acid, a creamy and lovely texture. Flavors of lime and kiwi mix with apricot and yellow apple. Good doughy and nutty aspects, but some interesting mineral and seashell notes as well. Very crisp and seashell-dominated finish. Not incredibly complex, but I like this style. (87 points)

N.V. Jacquart Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
SRP: $46
Pale copper color. Smells of wild strawberries, white cherries, mix in some melon peel, roses, and green almonds. Tangy, light and clean on the palate. Flavors of strawberries (with the white and green top part thrown in as well) white cherries, watermelon rind and roses. Toasted bread, and lemon peel on the finish. Zesty and fun but not very complex. (85 points)

N.V. Aecovi-Jerez Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Alexandro Palo Cortado - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $26
A kind of guava-apricot juice color. Smells of nougat, seaweed, salt brine, olive oil, apricot nuts and orange marmalade — loving it. Full-bodied and bold but fresh acid helps the balancing act. Nutty with dried apricot and olive oil flavors, some dried flowers, marcona almonds, mixed in with orange peel and sea brine. Begs for nuts and hard cheeses, this provides lots of flavors and elements to contemplate and enjoy. A great wine to pour for friends and family and discuss the nuances. (90 points)

N.V. W & J Graham’s Porto 20 Year Old Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $63
A kind of raspberry-caramel color, very deep. Classic tawny notes of dried fruits (yellow raisins, cranberries, pineapple, prunes), along with spice, clove and cinnamon, dried honey and nougat. Full and caramelized on the palate, with tons of complex dried fruits, all the dried fruits you can name. I also get macadamia nuts, orange marmalade, honey, spiced apple cider, lots of complex stuff going on. Still refreshing though, and not goopy or overdone in any way. This screams holiday bliss. After tasting, I served this to a bunch of friends at a party, and everyone loved it. (91 points)

N.V. Graham Porto Six Grapes Reserve - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $24
Bright plum colored. Nose shows elements of roasted fig, plum cake, raisins and smoke with some anise cookies, coconut, vanilla and loamy and rocky elements thrown in. Full with dusty tannins but seems approachable. Plum cake, sweet cocoa and red licorice, creamy vanilla and mocha notes. Not as dark or dense as a vintage Port but still some nice rocky and mineral elements. Finishes with underlying notes of anise, pepper and spice. Seems ready to drink now and very approachable but still well-structured. (87 points)

2009 Dow Porto Late Bottled Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $24
Aromas of fig paste and dried blueberries, add in some violets, caramel and coffee. Very approachable, with moderate but accessible tannins and I’m surprised by the acid that comes through. Full bodied but goes down quite easily, showing flavors of dried blueberries, black cherries and blackberries. The fruit is rich and sweet but vibrant, and I get a good dose of complex loam, smashed rocks, coffee and charcoal. Long finish with sweet cola and vanilla. A lovely LBV Port that is a great introduction to Dow’s for a very reasonable price. (90 points)

Wine for Nerds

Some fellow oenophile and wine bloggers got together at my favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines, for an impromptu tasting. There was no theme, we all just brought a bottle we thought the others would find interesting. There were a surprising amount of unique, rare and nerdy wines. Some stood out from the pack, but I can honestly say I enjoyed every wine. It was great night of wine and conversation. I can't wait for the next one.

Whites and Nouveau

The whites were all unique and wonderful, while the Nouveau won over some haters.

• 2002 Philippe Prié Champagne Brut Tradition - France, Champagne
  This Champagne was a great way to start off the evening. The lemon and wheat bread aromas were just explosive. The palate has a ton of acid and intense yeast. It's a powerful wine, with laser-like lime, pear and biscuit flavors. A long finish. (91 pts.)
• 2006 Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet Hermitage Blanc - France, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
  I brought this wine hoping to win over some people who are hesitant with rhone whites. This one had more than a few fans. Hazelnut, lanolin, smoke and lemon oil aromas. The lemon oil aroma is dead on, and reminds me of growing up when my mother would clean all her antiques with a lemon-based dusting oil. The palate is full of nutty, pear and yellow apple fruit, backed up with medium acid and a mineral streak that reminds me of oyster shells. The palate has a long finish of honeycomb and hazelnut, but the acid maintains throughout. (91 pts.)
• 2008 Domaine Ganevat Chardonnay Grusse en Billat - France, Côtes du Jura
  I've had this wine before, but liked it even more this time, maybe because I spent a lot of time with it. Aromas of yellow apple, marshmallows, smoke and honeycomb. The palate is plump and smoky, but the acid and mineral edge are so intense that the wine feels perfectly balanced. Gorgeous hazelnut and peanut shell flavors, with a hint of seaweed and minerals. While I love chardonnay in all its interpretations, this one has a little bit of everything in it. It's a very approachable Jura wine. Fantastic stuff. (92 pts.)
• 2010 Pascal Janvier Jasnières - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières
  I was really wowed by this wine, and impressed by how much it offered. The nose is just gorgeous, with slate, salt, pear and minerals. The palate is richer than I was expecting, based on the aromas. The pear, chammomile and honeycomb mix with sea salt and stones to make for a balanced and lively wine. There's a hint of ginger on the finish that I love. (90 pts.)
• 2011 Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Beaujolais Nouveau Primeur - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais Nouveau
  This is a Beaujolais Nouveau for all the haters out there. For that wine snob who refuses to touch the stuff, this is a wine to pour for them. It's the best Nouveau I've ever had. The nose is rich and explosive with sweet cherries, but I'm impressed by the amount of dark fruit aromas as well. The palate is like a burst of plum, black cherry and there's even some earthy-spicy flavors as well. Great acid makes it fresh and, frankly, delicious. (87 pts.)

A Plethora of Reds

We had some Jura, Loire, Sicily and California reds all thrown together for a fascinating flight.

• 2006 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Ferrington Vineyard - USA, California, Anderson Valley
  This pinot was just lovely, with a gorgeous bright purple color. The nose showed rose petals, smoke, red cherries. Over time, the wine opened up to show a bit of rhubarb, which was great. The palate was full of boisterous cherries, tangy acid and smooth tannins. The palate showed lots of finesse and restraint, while maintaining a lush and rich mouthfeel. Long, lingering finish with a touch of acid. (93 pts.)
• 2009 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Chinon
  This is an incredibly young wine that has a long life ahead of it. Even now, though, it's delivering. The aromas are dark, with black cherry and currants, along with a hint of pepperoni. With time and air, the aromas opened up, and I think the long-term aromatic potential of this wine is very high. The palate has gritty tannins, tangy acid and rich dark fruit. The mouthfeel is huge, but it somehow maintains balance. I enjoyed the plum, loam and green pepper flavors. Long, tannin-filled finish. This could use a decant, or ten years in the cellar. (92 pts.)
• 2008 Jacques Puffeney Poulsard Arbois "M" - France, Jura, Arbois
  It's not every day a wine made from poulsard is thrown into a tasting, but this wine had some fans, and I was one of them. The color of this wine in this glass is a mix of auburn and bright cherry red. Aromas of sour cherry, red apple, flowers and an aroma that reminds me of spaghetti and meatballs, or meat stewed with tomatoes. I was surprised by the tannic structure of this wine. It has real grip to it. The flavors of meat, dark cherries, olive and earth are compact, but delicious. This could develop a lot of complexity with age. It was fun to drink now, but I'd love to try this again in five or ten years. (89 pts.)
• 2010 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine L'Arpent Rouge - France, Loire Valley, Touraine
  This tasting turned out to have wines made from all sorts of grapes, including this pineau d'aunis. This wine is really unique, but not for everyone. In the glass, it looks like fruit compote, with a lot of cloudiness. It needed a decant to blow off some of the very funky aromas. Initially, it smelled a bit like carrion, but that blew off. After about a half-hour, it started smelling like hippies. Seriously, it smelled like dark incense, hemp and dirty ponchos. It's one of the most interesting aromatic profiles I've come across in a while. The palate shows dense tannins and tangy acid. Rhubarb, wild strawberry and onion grass flavors, with some smoke as well. There's a taste of rotting leaves on the finish, which I really enjoyed. This is a very interesting wine that could probably use a bit of time in the bottle, although this one came with a faux cork, so I'm not sure about the aging potential. (89 pts.)
• 2008 Arianna Occhipinti Nero d'Avola Siccagno Sicilia IGT - Italy, Sicilia IGT
  It's been a few months since I've had a nero d'avola, and this wine makes me think I should drink them more often. It's a smoky, cloudy red color in the glass. The nose shows explosive black cherries and smoke. The palate is bold, but also very bright and easy to drink. The tannic grip is matched with zippy acid, all backed up by blackberry, lamb and olive tapenade flavors. A very unique wine that's clearly doing it's own thing. (88 pts.)
• 2007 Volker Eisele Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
  I have a feeling I would've enjoyed this more alone, rather than tasted with so many wines. It was strange to have a Napa cab thrown into the tasting at this point. The nose was closed at first, but ipened to show smoke, currants and blackberries. The palate is rich and creamy and the cassis and pipe tobacco flavors mingle with the oak on the finish. (87 pts.)

Palate Cleanser

It's always good to split up a bunch of reds with a nice sherry.

• N.V. Emilio Lustau Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Lustau Solera Reserva Light Manzanilla Papirusa - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
  I needed a break after the first bunch of reds, and this manzanilla sherry did a great job of cleansing the palate. The nose showed almonds, lemon rind and a bit of vermouth. The palate was briny with sea salt and peanut flavors. Very briny, in fact, like green olive brine and some sea shells. I enjoy these flavors, so I had a good time with this wine. (86 pts.)

More Reds

To finish off, we threw some random reds together. The Bandol stole the flight, and was a great way to end the tasting.

• 2005 Domaine du Bois de Saint-Jean Côtes du Rhône Cuvée de Voulongue - France, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
  When I turned 21, the 2003 Rhones were just hitting the market. I was just getting into wine and focused heavily on this area. I remember buying many wines from this producer and really enjoying them. I haven't had one in years, so it was fun to try this 2005. The nose really stunk upon opening. It wasn't faulty, just stinky: seaweed, olive paste and lamb wool. The palate had good acid and tannins, with some dark plum and earth flavors. A savory meat flavor lingers on the finish. Good, but just couldn't compete with some of the other wines being poured. (87 pts.)
• 2010 Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Fleurie Les Garants - France, Beaujolais, Fleurie
  One of only a few 2010 beaujolais wines that I've had, and I really enjoy this vintage. Cherries, plum cake and loam on the nose. Gorgeous on the palate, with dense plums, silky tannins and fresh acid. This wine has it all, compacted into a tight ball, and could use some time to open up. (88 pts.)
• 2010 Domaine de L'Octavin Arbois Commendatore Les Corvées - France, Jura, Arbois
  I really enjoyed this trousseau. Very light red color in the glass, almost like cherry juice. The nose smells like Fruity Pebbles mixed with sour cherries. The palate is light and fresh with cherry candy, rose petals and hints of earth. If a Jura wine can ever be called a quaffer, this is it. Thanks again to Tom for representing the Jura. They should hire him as a wine ambassador. (88 pts.)
• 1997 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Cuvée Estagnol - France, Provence, Bandol
  This Bandol has years ahead of it, but it's lovely right now. Very cloudy and gritty in the glass. Rich aromas of black plums, olives and meat. The palate shows sour cherries, olives, meat and leaves. A taste of mushrooms lingers on the finish. I really enjoyed this, and think it will continue to develop complexity for a few more years. The tannins and fruit are still big and bold. (90 pts.)