Friday, April 22, 2022

An Ode to Praia dos Supertubos

Happy Earth Day!

The ocean gives us everything. May we strive to be better stewards than we were last year.


I love it when one of the best waves of a session goes unridden, even in a crowded field of highly talented surfers. It serves as a good reminder that no one bests the ocean -- nobody conquers anything. Rather, we commune with the waves for a period of time, harness the ocean's raw energy, and return to shore rejuvenated, humbled and stoked.

What a truly astounding wave this is, and I am so thankful to mother ocean and the absolute charging locals who shared it with me. About 15 years ago now, I was surfing my home break in New Jersey on a fun four-foot day. I noticed two guys who seemed experienced but not from around here, so I paddled up and asked them where they were from. Portugal, one said. I was shocked. "No way! Where exactly?" They said Peniche. It blew my mind and I expressed how stoked I was to have Portuguese surfers visiting my wave. I officially welcomed them, and told them to have fun. They even said it reminded them of home on a small day. I told them I had always wanted to surf Supertubos. "You must," one said. So I said, "OK, I will," not knowing if I would ever live to see that promise fulfilled.



I was sitting on the beach, preparing myself mentally on a particularly intimidating Supertubos dawn raid -- six foot and barreling heavier than I've seen at that size, eight foot sneaker closeout sets, howling offshore winds, nobody yet out on the peak. A bodyboarder, older than me, with the look and presence of a true OG who I'd seen out a few times, comes up and asks me where I'm from. I say Bom Dia but he asks in English and somehow knows I'm American. "USA East Coast - New Jersey." He gives me a nod and says, "Welcome to our waves," and paddles out. No one had ever just come up to me and been so explicitly welcoming, in all the places I've traveled and shared waves. 

Dues must be payed.

I'm so thankful I was able to surf this wave a lot in different conditions and sizes, and get to know it a bit. I am humbled and in awe of this magical stretch of sand.

Sunday, April 17, 2022

Malbec and More from Argentina

Welcome back. I hope your Spring is going well so far. Seems like there’s a “day” for everything these days: Donut Day; National Sibling Day; National Ditch Work and Go Fishing Day. OK, one of those might not be a “thing.”

But today, April 17, is “World Malbec Day,” set to commemorate the first agricultural school in Argentina, which opened in 1853.

For a long time now, Malbec and Argentina have become synonymous in the minds of many wine consumers – you all know this. The sprawling vineyards of Mendoza and other regions are home to so much Malbec, Malbec-based blends, not to mention other Bordeaux varieties.

And another great thing? You can probably find all of these babies for less than $25. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2021 Alavida Malbec Kosher – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $19
Vibrant purple color. The nose shows juicy red cherries and plums, with sweet cola and violets, a lot of fun on the nose. Smooth tannins, moderate acidity, with tart currants and spicy cranberries. An accessible style, fresh and fun, with notes of pepper, tobacco and some earthy vibes. Nicely done, fan-friendly stuff. Aged in 10% new French oak. (87 points)

2019 Bodegas Salentein Malbec Reserve – Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $17
Dark purple color. Ooh, this has a ton to offer on the nose, with a compote of warm blackberry and cherries, laced with coffee, pencil lead, lots of coffee grounds, charcoal and tobacco – impressive. Medium-bodied, refined tannins, fresh acidity, supporting the tart but deep plum and currant fruit. Complexities of chewing tobacco, graphite, coffee and scorched earth. I even get some mushroom and soy glaze elements. Really fresh and vibrant but shows a lot of depth. I was shocked to see the price point. (91 points)

2018 Mascota Vineyards Malbec Unánime – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $25
Violet color. The nose exudes sweet plums and dark currants, roasted figs and plum cakes, with notes of mocha, mesquite, with gravelly, iron and tilled soil elements. Smooth and chewy, suave tannins, vibrant acidity with tangy, dark plums, currants and blackberries. Notes of dark chocolate and coconut shavings, coffee grounds, black tea, iron, gravel, potting soil – there’s a lot of going on, here. Nuanced, expressive, but this will also age well for a few years. Aged 15 months in new French oak. (90 points)

2020 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec High Mountain Vines – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $22
Light purple color. Juicy and suave on the nose with jammy black cherries, mixed with warm black tea, cocoa, some minty, earthy vibes. Medium-bodied, soft tannins and vibrant acidity on the palate makes this a playful, accessible style with tart black cherry and raspberry compote. Notes of tobacco, spicy paprika, some clove. Lots of fun. (87 points)

2020 Trivento Malbec Reserve – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
A lively purple color. The nose pops with sweet blueberries and blackberry jams, along with mocha, toffee and red licorice, with some stony, earthy vibes. Plush texture on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Juicy cherries and blackberries  with some sweet cocoa, loamy earth and stony mineral tones. A down-the-middle Malbec but “real” tasting, too. Smooth, lively, crowd-pleasing stuff. For this price point… again, another great example of Mendoza Malbec value. (88 points)

2018 Trapiche Malbec Gran Medalla – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
An electric purple color. The nose is deep with plum sauce and jammy cherries, mixed with earth, warm stones, shaved pencil lead, with mocha and some iron tones. Zesty acidity on the palate keeps this really fresh, while smooth tannins support the snappy blueberry and black cherry fruit. Roasted figs, mocha, toffee and espresso mix with elements of graphite, paved road, dried violet petals. Tangy and deep but an accessible feel as well, this has a lot of vibrancy, spice and appeal. (90 points)

2019 Orfila Malbec Estate Selection – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $15
Bright purple color. Gorgeous smoky, minty, peppery nose, with warm sage, dark chocolate shavings, all over top of tangy plum fruit. The palate shows a balanced blend of dust tannins, tangy acidity and tart black currant fruit. Elements of roasted red peppers, cracked black pepper and anise mix with graphite, minerals and even some meaty tones. A whole lot of balance and depth in here for the price. Aged in a mix of French and American oak. (89 points)

2018 Orfila Malbec Reserva – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Gorgeous nose, deep but alive, tart but juicy, with blackberries and dark plums tossed together with smoky, meaty, peppery, paved road tones. The grippy tannins offer a nice backbone, while fresh acidity keeps it lip-smacking, and I get bright currant and blueberry fruit that shows a lot of depth. Laced with spicy, earthy, peppery notes, along with coffee, pencil shavings and rose potpourri. Great mouthfeel and minerals on the finish, another wine that shocked me with its price. Mendoza Malbec value, for the win! Aged 12 months in a mix of French and American oak. (91 points)

Other wines

2020 Orfila Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Selection – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. So spicy on the nose! Tobacco, bell peppers, tar, pepper, smoked meats – lovely stuff – over tart black currant fruit. The palate shows refreshing acidity and suave tannins with crunchy red and black currant fruits. The violet petals, pepper, tar and pepperoni elements add a nice kick. Savory, earthy, it’s accessible and an early-drinking style but the complexity is really nice. (89 points)

2018 Orfila Reserva – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Dark purple. Smells like tart currants and blackberries, along with some pine tar, smoked meats, beef drippings, tobacco and sage – a really cool combo. Smooth tannins, vibrant acidity, juicy and vibrant black cherry fruit, it all is woven together really well. Violets, tar, anise, mint, cocoa, these elements play off each other nicely and this wine has a lot of personality and freshness that I find very attractive. 50/50 Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in a mix of French and American oak. (90 points)

2018 Luigi Bosca Cabernet Franc De Sangre ­- Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $22
Deep purple color. The nose shows a lovely mix of smoky tar and tobacco over dark plums, black cherries, and tossed with cocoa, pepper, bay leaf and coffee. Saucy yet fresh on the palate with dusty tannins and tangy blueberries and black cherries. Alive and vibrant with complexities of pepper ,warm clay, tobacco and sage. Delightful now but this should age nicely for five years or so. Really solid value in here. (90 points)

2019 Bodega El Esteco Cabernet Sauvignon Don David Reserve – Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $13
Vibrant purple color. The nose of blueberries, roasted figs, dark plums, with lots of black pepper, dried red pepper and eucalyptus – so spicy and interesting. Medium/full-bodied but fresh with chewy tannins, with blackberries and blueberries. There’s a complex mix of charcoal, smoky earth, black pepper, charcoal. A stony, mineral essence throughout – really balanced and lively. Classic Argentina Cab, and I was surprised to see the price point. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.