Wine Reviews: Gundlach Bundschu & Peju

I received new releases from Sara Fowler, who has been making wine at Napa’s Peju Winery. This Rutherford estate, found by Tony and Herta Peju in 1982, and a well-known spot for Napa wine tourists. They produce a wide range of wines (about 40), but I tasted six wines with wide national availability.

I also tasted some new wines from Sonoma stalwart Gundlach Bundschu (a.k.a., “Gun Bun”). An historic estate, it dates back to 1858, when Jacob Gundlach founded the Rhinefarm Vineyard. I’ve been enjoying these wines for a long time, and I think Gun Bun wines can show a lot of quality for the price.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2018 Gundlach Bundschu Gewürztraminer Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $25
Pale lemon color. So juicy on the nose, with pineapple, lychee and lime, along with mint, orange flowers, verbena and rich honey. Plump texture, a waxy feel, yet vibrant acidity, which is great to see in a Gewurztraminer. This tastes dry (tiny hint of sugar), fresh, yet it’s so tropical and juicy. Pineapple, apricot, lychee and mango nectar, but the fruit is topped in spiced tea, honey, with chalk and minerals. Lovely stuff, a pure, lively California Gewurztraminer. 14.3% alcohol, aged in stainless steel and old oak. (90 points)

2017 Gundlach Bundschu Mountain Cuvée - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $20
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of lush black cherries, red and black currants, juicy but fresh fruit topped in spicy pepper, tobacco and mint, cocoa and coffee. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, but medium acidity keeps it lively. Smooth, yummy but fresh fruit (blackberries, all sorts of currants), mixed well with notes of peppery spice, earth, cocoa and coffee. This has a lot of class, balance and a whole lot of deliciousness for such a reasonable price. Drink or hold for a few. Merlot with 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec, aged eight months in 15% new French oak. (89 points)

2016 Gundlach Bundschu Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

SRP: $55
Deep purple color. Concentrated aromas of dark currants, blackberries, along with smoky charcoal, graphite, mint chocolate chip, tobacco, vanilla. Built well on the palate, but the tannins are nice and smooth, and moderate acidity. Black currants and blackberry, deep but crunchy fruit, laced with fallen leaves, graphite, mint, mocha and vanilla notes. Round but fresh, structured but opens nicely with just a bit of air. This is already showing lots of nuance and smoothness, but could benefit from a few years as well. Includes 8% combined of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, the wine is aged 18 months in 45% new French oak. (89 points)

2016 Gundlach Bundschu Merlot - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $35
Medium purple color. Nose boasts juicy black cherries and deep currants, topped in roasted coffee, vanilla, mint, and a cool mix of black pepper and red pepper flakes. Full but smooth on the palate with moderate acidity, this is fun, fresh, and tangy, but shows plenty of depth, and solid complexity. Tart red and black currants and blueberries, juicy and suave, with notes of tobacco, mint and mocha. Fun now but could develop well over the next few years easily. Includes 9% Petit Verdot and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 17 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points) 

2018 Peju Province Winery Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
Pale lemon color. On the nose, a burst of kiwi, white peach, with honeysuckle, saline, mint and oregano elements. Brisk acidity frames the wine so nicely on the palate, but there’s a lot of juicy texture, with sweet white peach, topped in kiwi and lime. Notes of white tea, saline, fresh white flowers, mountain stream minerals, adding a lot of complexity and a mouthwatering feel. Pure, vibrant and pretty Napa Sauvignon Blanc. All SB, all stainless steel. (90 points)

2013 Peju Province Winery Cabernet Franc Petit Trois - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose. Waves of red and black currants and plums, rich and saucy but vibrant fruit, topped in lots of menthol, black pepper, mushroom, cocoa and vanilla. Full-bodied and suave with velvety tannins, this is a rich and juicy wine (highly delicious), but also shows some medium acidity. The depth of the cherry and currant fruit is impressive. Ditto for the complex sage, methol, cigar shop, pepper and earth. Cocoa, coffee and cedar woven in well. This has aged nicely, but I’d be curious what this does with another 3-5 years of cellar time. 100% Cabernet Franc. (92 points)

 2016 Peju Province Winery Merlot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $48
Light purple color. Nose of sweet red currants, fig past, blueberry jam, along with violets, clove, sweet eucalyptus and vanilla. Plush texture on the palate, soft tannins, with medium-low acidity. Accessible and fruit-forward, with sweet black cherry, roasted plums and figs. Lots of coffee, vanilla, sweet cocoa and sweet pipe tobacco. A juicy, jammy, velvety style to drink in the near term. Includes 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Petit Sirah, aged 18 months. (87 points)

2017 Peju Province Winery Cabernet Sauvignon The Experiment - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $100
Saucy purple color. Nose shows sweet blueberries, black cherries, with earth, roasted chestnut, leather, clove and mint chocolate chip. Velvety, jammy presence on the palate with a chewy, medium-low acidity kind of feel. Saucy blueberries and black cherries, topped in earth, violets and graphite. There are a lot of intense oak signatures in here (espresso, cocoa, dark chocolate, sweet vanilla), so be aware of that going into this wine. Perhaps time in the cellar will help it integrate. That said, the underlying fruit is yummy and there are other solid elements as well. All Cabernet aged 16 months in all new French, American and Hungarian oak. (87 points)

2015 Peju Province Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Light purple color. Deep nose of black currants, sweet blueberry, with roasted chestnut, cocoa powder, mint and scorched earth notes. On the palate, this is a big wine, but it holds itself well, with round tannins and fresh acidity. Tangy black cherries, juicy currants, roasted fig, the fruit is complemented by eucalyptus, leather, earth, cocoa, subtle vanilla. Expressive and integrated already, but this should do well with three or four years. Includes 8% Petit Verdot and 7% Merlot, aged 18 months in 45% new French and American oak. (90 points)
 2015 Peju Province Winery The Farm - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $80
Medium purple color. Aromas of juicy red and black cherries, with violets, rose petals, some savory spice, leather, dark chocolate. Full-bodied, velvety, suave and vibrant on the palate, this is expressive and vibrant with juicy black cherries and dark currants. Complex elements of violets, pipe tobacco, scorched earth, and notes of cocoa, vanilla and clove. This could benefit from three or four years in the cellar, but a very pretty blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese. (91 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

HLR Cellars: Exceptional Sonoma Reds

HLR Cellars, above the fog line in Sonoma County. Credit: HLR Cellars.

On the border between Napa and Sonoma Counties, about a mile from Diamond Mountain, sits a lesser-known appellation: the Fountaingrove District. This area of Sonoma (which achieved AVA status in 2015) is where H.L.R. Cellars calls home. 

Started in 2012 by Steve and Joan Heller, H.L.R. Cellars grows Bordeaux varieties in their estate vineyards, which are planted at about 1,300 feet in elevation.

I had never heard of this producer before, but I’m always on the look for new (to me) producers from Sonoma and Napa, so I was excited to uncork these samples and give them a whirl. I lined up the wines (a Cab, a Malbec, a Merlot, and two red blends) and single-blind tasted them. As I was typing up my notes, I did a double-take when I was looking at the prices. All of the wines clock in at $45 or less, and they bring a ton of deliciousness, structure and excitement at that price point. That’s not easy to find.

My notes below.

2015 HLR Cellars Hella•Nora - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $39 Light purple color. Nose of roasted figs, plums, currant paste along with cocoa, vanilla and sweet espresso. Full and suave on the palate, chewy, fleshy, tangy, a nice combination. Tart black currant and roasted figs with expresso, cocoa, cedar and vanilla, hints of earthy-clove and tobacco. Plush and rich but stays lively, too. Yum. 40% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in French and American oak. (89 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Hella•licious - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $39

Light purple color. Spicy nose of pepper and wild herbs on top of rich black and red currant fruit, notes of earth, smoke and cedar. Full-bodied but lovely freshness from the acidity, and the tannins provide some structure but remain smooth around the edges. Tangy red and black currant fruit with smoky herbs, black pepper, along with sweet cocoa, vanilla and coffee grounds. Absolutely delicious, but it has complexity and vibrancy going for it as well. Cabernet Sauvignon with 27% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Merlot - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $39
Rich purple color. Bold but tangy fruit (red and black currants) with eucalyptus, mint, cocoa and sweet herbs. Full and suave on the palate, tangy acid over velvety tannins, and tart red currant mixes with saucy black cherry. Notes of eucalyptus, charcoal and mint chocolate chip, this has earthy-savory tones too. So vibrant on the finish. Aged 24 months in 44% new French and American oak. (91 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Malbec - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $45
Rich purple. Nose shows tart black cherries, plums and boysenberry with mint, vanilla, violets and cedar. Full and big with chewy tannins but moderating acidity as well. Plums, roasted figs, boysenberry, waves of juicy dark fruit, backed up with violets, eucalyptus, mint, coffee, roasted chestnut. Rich and flavorful but stays smooth and lively. Aged 26 months in all new French and American oak. (90 points)

2015 HLR Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Sonoma County, Fountaingrove District
SRP: $45
Light purple color. I love the spicy elements on the nose (pepper, paprika, bay leaf) on top of tart red and black currants, with notes of loamy earth, campfire, pine resin, really cool vibes on the nose. Full but so pretty on the palate with structured but rounded tannins and fresh acidity. Gorgeous, plush black cherries, currants and plums, juicy but crisp fruit, backed up by spicy pepper, paprika, grilled herbs, smoky barbecue. Notes of vanilla and wood fit in nicely into the overall package. Pretty now but I’d love to see in five to seven years. Aged 25 months in a mix of French and American oak, about 50% new. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

California time again! I’m really excited about a lot of the wines in this report.

I cover four wines from the Writer’s Block brand, from long-time Lake County winemaker Jed Steele. He still produces delicious, interesting varietal wines from vineyards in Lake County, and releases them for a very reasonable $17.

Sutro contributes a Cab and Merlot from the Warnecke Ranch Vineyard in Alexander Valley, which both show incredible quality and terroir-focused nuances, and they’re priced far less than some wines of similar quality from Napa.
                  
Smith-Madrone, per usual, contributes two stellar new releases, while J McClelland wows with a Napa Malbec and Petit Verdot. Oh, and the 2014 Cardinale is pricey but gorgeous.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $34
Rich golden color. Smells of yellow apples and pears, drizzled with lime, nougat, honeycomb, chalk dust, chamomile, mint — Wow! On the palate, this has such refreshing acidity but the texture is creamy and there’s this tingly mineral depth that is fascinating, superbly balanced. Lemon curd, apricot, yellow apple, rich but nuanced fruit along with honeysuckle, salted almond, chalk dust, saline, candle wax. Lively and precise but packed with flavor and finishes with stony minerals. Always a classic Napa Chard for me, but this vintage is exceptional. Barrel-fermented and aged 10 months in French oak, 80% new, and yes its 14.9% alcohol but the balance is phenomenal. (94 points)

2016 FEL Chardonnay - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Rich gold color. Bold aromas of glazed pears, yellow apples, lemon curd, along with sea salt, almond, coconut. Creamy texture on the palate, medium acidity, plump but lively appeal. Apples, baked pear, apricot, lemon crème, with notes of almond, honey butter, sea salt, cinnamon and yellow flowers. Full and forward but shows complexity and dimension. (90 points)

2017 Scotto Cellars Sangiovese Rosé - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $15
Light watermelon color. Aromas of strawberries, raspberries, white cherries, spicy herbs, white pepper, rose hips. Plump texture but fresh with zesty acidity, and lots of red apple peel, strawberries, watermelon and white cherries. Notes of spicy white pepper, nettle, rose tea, some honey and chalky notes. Delicious, quite complex for the price. (88 points)

2015 Writer's Block Pinot Noir - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $17
Light ruby color. Aromas of raspberry jam, tart strawberries and red apple peel along with rose hips, rhubarb, cola and white pepper. Zesty acidity and light tannins on a medium-bodied frame makes for a vibrant but balanced Pinot, with flavors of tart and juicy red berries and apples (no candied fruit notes here). White pepper, rhubarb, spicy tobacco, cola, hint of mushroom. A lot going on for the price. In the minefield of sub-$20 California Pinots this Lake County one stands out for a recommendation. Aged 12 months in a French, American and Hungarian oak (15% new). (88 points)

2015 Writer's Block Cabernet Franc - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $17
Medium ruby color. Aromas of spicy cherries and tart red and black plums, along with cola, smoky charcoal and black pepper. Tart and refreshing on the palate with soft tannins, moderate acidity, and tangy cherries and plum skins. Notes of mushroom, coffee and vanilla. Fresh, tasty, approachable, crowd-pleasing. (87 points)

2015 Writer's Block Malbec - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $17
Medium ruby color. Aromas of raspberry jam, blackberry, cola, coffee, grilled herbs and tobacco. Medium+ acidity and medium/light tannins make for a fresh wine but lots of juicy black cherry and raspberry fruit. Tobacco, menthol, coffee, some violets and earth. Fresh and tangy but shows a good range of flavors and some nice complexity. Aged 12 months in French, American and Hungarian oak (15% new). (87 points)

2015 Writer's Block Zinfandel - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $17
Deep ruby color. Aromas are deep and lush with black cherries, raspberries, plum cake, along with cedar, espresso and cola. Chewy texture on the palate with significant tannins and medium-low acidity, and flavors of black cherries and currant jam. Notes of cocoa powder, coffee, asphalt, pencil lead, violets, black pepper glaze. So delish, impressive depth and structure for a wine at this price point. From old vines in the Duncan-Shine Vineyard, this wine is aged 12 months in 15% new French, American and Hungarian oak. (88 points)

2013 McCay Cellars Grenache Abba Vineyard - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $32
Pale ruby color. I love the aromas of smoky charcoal, savory herbs and broth, grilled steak, on top of cherries, raspberry jam — wow! Full but smooth with fresh acidity and easygoing tannins, such balance. Crisp red cherries with raspberries and strawberry jam, laced with complex elements of rose hips, rhubarb, grilled herbs, pepperoni, bay leaf, cracked pepper. Complex, flavorful, balanced, delicious. Native yeasts, old oak, this is impressive Lodi Grenache. (92 points)

2014 Sutro Wine Company Cabernet Sauvignon Warnecke Ranch - California, Sonoma County, Alexander ValleySRP: $50
Rich purple color. Dark and plummy with black currants, dark and saucy with peppercorns, tobacco, graphite, cedar, sarsaparilla. Full-bodied, grippy but suave tannins, nice tension with the acidity. Tart black currants and black cherries, rich but the fruit has a lot of freshness to it. Pencil shavings, rocky soil, fallen leaves, cocoa, tobacco bard, coffee – this is a complex and intriguing wine. Lovely, structured, delicious but worthy of cellaring for at least 4-6 years. (93 points) 

2014 Sutro Wine Company Merlot Warnecke Ranch - California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $30
Light purple color. Gushing aromas of plums, tangy black cherries, blueberry, with a strong shot of eucalyptus, along with violets, tobacco mint, granite and pencil shavings. Full but smooth, structured but fresh, balanced very nicely. Tart black cherry, blueberry, blackberry, waves of rich but crisp fruit. Notes of eucalyptus, anise, violets, paved road, smashed rocks. Deep, exquisite stuff, delicious but age-worthy. Wow. (93 points) 

2013 J. McClelland Petit Verdot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Inky purple color. On the nose, waves of juicy dark plums, blackberry, black currants, along with violets, pepper, cardamom, chestnuts. Full-bodied, bold grip to the tannins, medium acidity keeps it lively. Black cherry, cassis and blueberry, dark and punchy fruit, laced with pepper, violets, cedar, coffee and iron. Lots of depth, cellar-worthy for 5-8 easily, but gorgeous now, especially with air or time in the decanter. Includes 10% Malbec, aged 26 months in French oak. (91 points) 

2013 J. McClelland Malbec - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $45

Bold purple color. Bold purple color. Rich, intoxicating aromas of blueberry, blackberry, summer plums, violets, chestnut, cocoa, graphite, vanilla – complex, evolving aromas that will pop with cellar time. Structured well but velvety, yet vibrant acidity. Tart black cherries, currants, the fruit is rich but tangy. Complex elements of tobacco, pencil lead, sage, paved road, with some earthy/rocky soil elements. Long time ahead, but this is a stunner of a Napa Malbec already. 100% Malbec. (91 points)

2015 Grounded Wine Co. Steady State - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Rich purple color. Smells like roasted plums, currant jam, blackberries, cocoa, loam, cedar and dark chocolate. Full and suave, chewy but it shows structured tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of black currants, plum skin, crushed blackberries, along with roasted chestnuts, dark roast coffee, scorched earth, anise and cocoa. Complex, forward, seriously delicious yet can age well. Opens up a lot with age. 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot. 18 months in 50% new French oak. (92 points)

2014 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $52
Deep ruby color. Gorgeous aromatics of black currants, tart plums, eucalyptus, charcoal, smashed rocks, violets, coffee. Bold tannic grip on the palate, and while the acidity keeps it so fresh, this is a very young and compact wine. But plenty of cherry and blackberry and currant fruit, so fresh but rich. Laced with cocoa powder, cedar, anise, mineral and gravel. Complex, fruity, silky, age-worthy. This is another excellent effort that is impressive now but will show its best in 4-8 years, I reckon. Includes 8% Cabernet Franc and 7% Merlot, aged in French oak for 18 months, 70% new. (93 points) 

2014 Cardinale - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $275
Vibrant purple color. Gorgeous, complex aromas of black currants, blueberry, black cherries, along with eucalyptus, tobacco pipe, espresso, chai tea, bay leaf, a ton of complex aromas to unpack. Full and powerful on the palate, velvety but shows powerful grip, moderating acidity. Plum, blackberry, black cherry, cassis, smooth but deep fruit. The fruit is surrounded by violets, sweet pipe tobacco, eucalyptus, cigar box, ginger snap, vanilla. This is gorgeous stuff, beautiful now, but let this unwind for a decade and see what happens. Includes 12% Merlot, this is sourced from 11 different Napa vineyards, and the wine is aged 19 months in 94% new French oak. (96 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Head High: Waves and Wine Pair Perfectly

If you’ve read anything from me, or followed me on social media, you know I am obsessed and in love with two things: wine and waves. 

I’ve been riding waves since I was three or four, when my Ma put my on her back and rode a bodyboard in the New Jersey shore break. And I’ve been tasting and enjoying wine since before I could legally purchase bottles of my own. Over the course of my 20s, and now into my 30s, I’ve managed to tie these two loves together quite well. I am drawn to remote coastal areas with diverse wave zones, cold water and great wine. Sonoma Coast, Mendocino, Santa Barbara, South Africa’s Western Cape, these places call to me to surf their waves and swirl their wines. (Western Oz, Chile, Galicia, you’re all on my list.)



The California coast is one of the most generous and consistent wave zones on the planet. Same goes for its winegrowing regions. (Photo: IJB)

Sam Spencer in his natural habitat. Credit: Head High Wines

I’m not the only guy who lives for both of these things. Sam Spencer, partner and winegrowing director at Head High Wines, is a kindred spirit. Born in DC, Sam learned to surf in Rhode Island, whose waters are even colder than my home waves of New Jersey. He studied at UC Davis’ winemaking program, and worked 20 years as a wine consultant and vineyard developer. Of course, this work kept him relatively close to the coast, which allowed Sam to take frequent surf breaks.

Now Sam has his own venture, Head High Wines, named for the term surfers use when the surf is breaking at about 5-6 feet. He produces three wines, a rosé of Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, a Sonoma Coast Pinot and a red blend from various vineyards scattered around California’s North Coast appellation.

Sam explained the connection between waves and wine in a manner that mirrored my appreciation for this unique coastal-oenological relationship. Great wine requires a convergence of several different elements: climate, soil, vineyard site, weather conditions. Great surf happens when swell (created by wind over water) aligns with a certain type of shallow underwater surface, and light (preferably off-shore) wind conditions. It only happens at specific spots, at specific times, under these specific circumstances. If one of the elements is missing (in both wine and surf) you get skunked.

Of course, there is the human element — the dynamic interaction between a driven person and the living power of the natural world. Not many people have this insatiable desire to get off their ass and paddle into big, sketchy surf, or trek out to the vineyard to pick the Pinot when the Brix levels are just right. But surfers and winemakers can’t help themselves. Sure we use new technology to aid us in these pursuits (neoprene for cold waves, stainless steel for cold stabilization), but wine and waves are both examples of Mother Nature’s control over the process. We humans just show up at the right time and revel in it.

Sam says he doesn’t make wine for surfers, and you don’t need to be a surfer to “get” these wines — you only need a functioning nose and palate. But, that said, there’s an added textural element to these wines you’re a wave-lover.
I recently met up with Sam at one of my favorite DC restaurants, the Red Hen, and we traded surf stories for a few hours. Sam is no kook. The dude surfs California’s North Coast breaks on the regular and has traveled to more than a few of my bucket list surf spots, Fiji, for example.

Head High has also teamed up with Sustainable Surf, an ocean conservation non-profit. One buck from every bottle goes to this charity or the Sonoma Valley Education Foundation. Good on ya, Head High.

(Click here for an interview with Sam on the daily wine blog, Terroirist.)

What I liked most about Head High, despite the surfing connection, was their accessibility in terms of price and style. The wines run between $25-$35, which is about the cost of a cheap pair of wet suit gloves. Head High juice is bright, fruity, pleasant, but by no means simple.

Below, I’ve pasted my notes on Head High’s current releases.

Credit: Head High Wines

2015 Head High Wines Rosé - California, North Coast
($24)

Bright watermelon color. Crisp and juicy with bright acid and fresh strawberry and watermelon flavors. A blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache and Tempranillo.

2013 Head High Wines Pinot Noir - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast 
($35)
Smells smoky and earthy with deep dark fruit. Full and plummy on the palate. Rich but a great juicy texture. Plums and blackberries mixed with cocoa and coffee. Smooth, long finish. Very nice.

2013 Head High Wines Red - California, North Coast
($30)
Juicy, fleshy, lovely texture, full with lush berry fruit but shows a nice tart edge along with hints of earth and warm spice. A blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Grenache from Sonoma, Lake and Napa Counties, aged 15 months in 35% new French oak.

Wine Reviews: California Reds for Cold Weather

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

The air in the mid-Atlantic is finally baring its cold winter teeth – which I love. It’s time to set the slow-cooker, uncork some rich California reds. and raise a glass to darkness at 5:00 PM.

I review a lot of California Pinot Noirs, Cabernets and Syrahs, but we also receive a lot of samples that don’t easily fall into one category or another. Hence, this tasting, which is full of Merlot, Bordeaux-style blends and inky Petite Sirahs.

These wines were received as trade samples an tasted single-blind.

2012 Matchbook The Arsonist - California

SRP: $22
Deep ruby color. Sweet blueberry and raspberry jam aromas, along with roses, caramel. Medium-full-bodied with smooth tannins and medium acid, a jammy but slick feel on the palate, and I get lots of blueberry and black cherry fruit, cooked down a bit with coffee, brown sugar, vanilla bean and hints of black pepper glaze. A bit boisterous but it pulls off some fun stuff and provides a moderate amount of complexity. Chewy, rich, warm, with a dusty but sweet finish. Fun stuff now but it could benefit from some near-term aging. 52% Petite Verdot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, aged 28 months in French, American and European oak. (87 points)

2012 Clayhouse Vineyard Petite Sirah “Show Pony” Red Cedar Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $40
Deep blackberry-purple color. Aromas of tangy blackberries mixed with blueberry compote and jam, notes of charcoal, dark chocolate, violets and clove. Dense at first, with low acid and grippy tannins. The blackberry and blueberry fruit is rich and extracted, yet maintains a tart aspect. Violets, graphite, clove, toasted coconuts, dark chocolate. Full and forward (14.5% alcohol), but shows an impressive depth and non-fruit complexity like graphite, pepper and rich earth. Drink now if you want a big boy, but I’d like to cellar this for two years or so. All Petite Sirah aged 20 months in French oak. (88 points)

2013 Chronic Cellars Petite Sirah Suite Petite - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP $15
Vibrant purple color. Dense on the nose with deep blackberries and plums, mocha, cedar, smoke and black olive. Rich texture on the palate, full-bodied with gritty tannins. Compact, needs time to open up but has some dense black cherries and roasted figs. Notes of earth, charcoal, black olive and black pepper glaze as well. Rich, chewy, perhaps needs two years or so, but this is an impressive effort for $15. Includes 13% Syrah. (87 points)

2013 Chronic Cellars Purple Paradise - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

SRP: $15
Juicy ruby color. Nose of sweet red and black cherries and plums, coffee, clove and vanilla. Full-bodied but soft tannins, moderate-low acid. Juicy raspberries, blueberries, gushing fruit loaded with coffee, dark chocolate, sweet oak and vanilla bean. Rich, chewy, a wine to pop now and drink with a crowd. 70% Zinfandel, 14% Syrah, 11% Petite Sirah, 5% Grenache. (86 points)

2012 Matchbook Tinto Rey - California, Central Valley, Dunnigan Hills

SRP: $17
Mediun ruby colored. Nose of wild raspberries and juicy red cherries, some cola, mint and sweet baking spices as well. Medium-bodied, moderate acid helps freshen things up despite the chewy black cherry and raspberry jam elements. The wine is packed with notes of cola, dark chocolate, cedar and clove, but some interesting pepper and spice notes as well. Warm, smooth finish. Delicious stuff, not the most complicated wine, but it’s a fun ride. 50% Tempranillo, 17% Syrah, 11% Petit Verdot, 8% Graciano and 4% Tannat. (87 points)

2010 Cenyth Proprietary Red Wine - California, Sonoma County

SRP: $60
Dark ruby colored. A rich but bright aromatic blend of black and red currants and tart plums, sweet cedar, red roses, dusty soil, tobacco and a dash of eucalyptus. Medium bodied but not overpowering, the tannins provide plenty of solid structure but some fresh acid keeps the wine bright. The juicy plums and currant fruit show depth and nuance, and the fruit is matched with tobacco leaf, eucalyptus, toasted oak and sweet clove. Long finish with all sorts of nuanced flavors and, despite the bold presence, it maintains a lingering sense of elegance and freshness. I’d love to revisit this in three or four years, but enjoyable now, although a good decant would do it good. 54% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 14 months in 30% new French oak, 13.5% alcohol. (91 points)

2013 Biltmore Estate Merlot Vanderbilt Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $27
Medium purple color. Sweet aromas of black cherries, raspberries, red licorice and vanilla. A vibrant and juicy approach on the palate with fleshy tannins and moderate-low acid. Chewy black cherries and, the fruit is topped with notes of dark chocolate and campfire smoke. Significant wood chips and vanilla, especially on the finish, some tobacco and bell pepper notes. Perhaps some near-term aging could do good things, but it seems playful right out of the bottle. (85 points)

2013 Shafer Merlot - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $55
Light purple color. Deep, rich aromatics, needing air and swirling to coax them out, but lots of complexity in here: black cherries, blackberries, tart plums, along with a medley of earthy-savory aspects (mushroom, leather, coffee, eucalyptus), sweet vanilla and toast. Full-bodied with study tannins and medium-low acid, but the wine maintains a velvety richness. The blackberry, plum skin and blueberry fruit is full, ripe but sexy, and tossed together with plenty of tobacco, mocha, cedar, loamy soil and graphite notes. Complex, long, deserving of cellar time to unravel the complexities and let the wine smooth out, but this is a beauty. A burly wine at 15.3% alcohol, but so delicious. Includes 84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 20 months in 75% new French oak. (91 points)

Gotta love this label.

2012 Bootleg Red - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $39
Vibrant purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose (blackberry jam, roasted figs, blueberry syrup), some sweet vanilla and roasted coffee mix with an underlying sense of fallen leaves and savory (perhaps mushroom?) notes. Full-bodied with some sandy tannins and moderate acid. Juicy blackberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit, a crunchy aspect to the fruit helps it stay fresh and vibrant. Rich earth, chestnut, violet and coffee woven in well, some birch beer and cedar on the end. Seems accessible but it could definitely improve with some time in the cellar. 37% Merlot, 28% Petite Sirah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah and 4% Zinfandel. Aged 23 months in French and Amercan oak. (88 points)

2012 Murrieta’s Well “The Spur” - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

SRP: $25
Vibrant ruby color. Pretty but bold aromatic display, wild raspberries, black cherries mix with deeper currant fruit, dried violets, eucalyptus and cedar shavings. Medium-bodied, fine tannins of medium strength, medium-low acid. The blackberry and black currant fruit is intertwined with juicy and tangy wild raspberries. I like the mix of coffee, eucalyptus, cedar and wet earth. Fun, not too complicated, but definitely delicious. Could use a bit more tang for my palate, but a solid wine for early consumption. 33% Petite Sirah, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Petite Verdot, 4% Malbec and 3% Merlot. (87 points)

2013 Quivira Zinfandel “Black Boar” - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $45
Deep ruby colored. Smoky and baked on the nose with baked cherry pie, blackberry jam and roasted figs, some vanilla, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, low acid. Blackberry jam, roasted fig paste, cherry pie flavors, lots of cedar, vanilla, mocha and scorched earth but some more tobacco and black pepper. Big and bold, can’t deny the deliciousness but not much subtlety. Aged 17 months in 30% new French oak, this includes 12% Petite Sirah and 5% Carignan. (87 points)

2012 Immersion Wines Red Blend - California, Napa Valley

SRP $17
Vibrant purple. Aromas of tart red berries, blackberries, notes of clove, tobacco, spearmint, dark chocolate shavings. Full bodied, some tartness and bite to the wine, along with blackberry, dark currant, blueberry. Smoky, charcoal and Maintains a tart edge with a finish of smoke and anise. Not too complex, but fun. (85 points)

<85 points

2012 Clayhouse Vineyard “Adobe Red” - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $14
Juicy purple colored. Nose of sweet currant jam, raspberry pie, some cinnamon, clove and creamy oak. Light tannins, medium acid. Sweet black cherries, raspberry jam and pomegranate juice flavors, along with black cherry fountain soda, roasted chestnut and coffee. Juicy and a bit candied but tasty. Drink now. Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo and Malbec, 12 months in French and American oak. (84 points)

2013 Nevada County Wine Guild Our Daily Red - California

SRP: $10
Medium ruby color. Sweet red apple peel, strawberry jam, a weird mix of coffee grounds, bitter green herbal notes and red licorice candy. Medium bodied, soft tannins, some moderate acid. The red berry fruit is a bit bitter and sour, mixed in with notes of coffee, oak, green pepper and earth. Unbalanced, some red berry juice flavors but, overall, just not good. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet, Carignan. (70 points)
 
2013 Cornerstone Cellars Stepping Stone Red Rocks! - California, North Coast
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Smells like baked plums, raspberry cheesecake topping, toffee, but some roses and pepper come in and keep it from being totally sweet fruit compote. Tangy acid (surprising, in a good way), light, the wine has a fresh feel despite the candied elements, of which there are many (cherry chews, purple taffy, raisin cookie), mixed in with some slight notes of roses and chestnut. It’s fun, and I could see this getting a lot of critter label converts (and it is a step above for sure), but still tastes too concocted to me. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Pinot Noir. (76 points)

Special Occasion Wines Worth the Price ($30 or more)

I’d rather buy one $30 bottle than three $10 bottles. Bargain wines can be a lot of fun, and I love tracking down good ones in the $15 range, but to truly understand the wines of a given region, yup, you have to spend some money.

The $60 suggested retail for the 2010 Cenyth Proprietary Red Wine is actually very reasonable given the stunning quality of this Sonoma County red blend. (You can find it for about $50 at some retailers). I’ve been tasting through a bunch of Napa and Sonoma Cabernets and Bordeaux blends lately, and this bottle had the best quality-to-price ratio of the bunch. And it’s perfect to pop open and decant with good friends and family during one of these cold, autumn evenings.

Click here for more recommendations from the full article on Snooth.

A Visit to Dutton-Goldfield Winery

© Dutton-Goldfield Winery

During an October visit to Sonoma County, I spent three straight days surfing in the morning and drinking wine in the afternoon. It was — as these trips always are — an amazing experience. The cold, remote surf breaks thrilled and exhausted me, and the small production wines warmed me up with their California goodness. During the trip, I enjoyed a whole bunch of Siduri Pinot Noirs, a slew of Zins from Carol Shelton, and a few wines from Dutton-Goldfield.

Located in Sebastapol, close to a bunch of other wineries including Merry Edwards, Dutton-Goldfield makes some quality Chardonnays and Pinots, as well as some other Syrah and Zin. The tasting room is spacious and the staff is quite friendly. They’re open for tastings every day from 10:00 to 4:30, and you pay $15 unless you buy a bottle.

My notes on the wines I tasted…

2011 Dutton-Goldfield Chardonnay Dutton Ranch - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$35

This Chard displays what I love about the 2011s from Sonoma: it’s crisp, elegant, yet offers a lot of flavor and texture. Aromas of green pears, tangerine and notes of almond butter. Crisp acid but richly textured, with some slight buttery-creamy aspects. Apricot and tangerine run the show, but traces of minerals and buttercream are woven in there as well. Also some balanced notes of caramel and toffee, which linger long onto the finish. So easy to drink, but complex as well. Sexy stuff, and a good buy at the price. (91 points)

2011 Dutton-Goldfield Chardonnay Dutton Ranch/Rued Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$50

A bit richer and more opulent than the 2011 Dutton Ranch. Araoms of Granny Smith apples, creamy butter, mint and some waxy notes. Creamy and rich on the palate, but possessing solid acid to keep it clean. Full of apricot and guava fruit, matched with toffee, mixed nuts and some ginger snap flavors. A bolder style, but still very focused and crystal clear. I’d love to try this in two or three years to see what it's doing. (91 points)

2011 Dutton-Goldfield Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch Emerald Ridge - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$58

On the nose I get a Thanksgiving medley of cranberry sauce and baking spices, along with some earthy, nutty tones. Creamy on the palate, with cranberry and red cherry fruit that tastes light and fresh. I also get some green pepper and cannabis notes. I like the soft and elegant mouthfeel on this wine. Perhaps a bit steep at $58, but a nice Pinot nonetheless. (88 points)

Not exactly cheap, but they make some solid Pinot.

2011 Dutton-Goldfield Pinot Noir Fox Den - California, Sonoma County, Green Valley
$58

I liked this slightly more than the 2011 Emerald Ridge. It shows strawberries, cranberries and some herbal tones, although I think this needs more time to coax out more complex aromas. Fine-grained tannins, good cut, this Pinot shows sappy red fruit, along with notes of caramel, cherry candies and some herbal notes (sweet basil?). Tangy and earthy on the finish. I’d give this a year to rest up before uncorking one myself. (89 points)

N.V. Dutton-Goldfield Spectrum - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$32

A non-vintage blend of 58% Syrah, 28% Zinfandel and 14% Pinot Noir. Smells spicy, with pepper, potpourri and cedar. Tons of pepper on the palate... like... a lot. The black cherry and dark plum fruit is tangy, and there’s a hint of olive underneath. But that black pepper sauce stuff overwhelms most of the other elements. (84 points)

Journeying Through Donelan's Sonoma County Wines

Each bottle of Donelan wine is adorned with a motto: “Wine is a journey not a destination.” Perhaps it’s a bit corny, but as I sniff and sip Donelan’s reds, I feel like I’m experiencing not a finished product, but a continuing storyline. Yes, the wines possess pure and focused Sonoma County fruit that offers immediate pleasure, but it will take years to fully grasp the depth and complexity buried inside these wines.

Joe Donelan founded Donelan Wines in 2009 after leaving Pax Wine Cellars and parting ways with his former business partner Pax Mahle. Since its inception, winemaker Tyler Thomas has fashioned terroir-driven Rhone varieties under the Donelan label, and the wines have garnered all sorts of praise from the big critics. This praise is well-deserved. Donelan just announced Thomas will be leaving his position as winemaker, although he will continue to consult for the 2012 and 2013 vintages. Assistant winemaker Joe Nielsen, who has worked alongside Thomas for more than four years, will step up and take the reins as head winemaker.

If you’re like me, when you spend $45 on a bottle, you want a wine with the capacity to age and evolve. And the 2010 reds deliver droves of cellar potential. While each wine maintains an individual character, the 2010 reds as a whole display granite-like structure and concentration.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2010 Donelan Cuvée Moriah - California, Sonoma County ($40)
Smells of figs, sweet cherries, incense and meat — and the combination rocks. Firm tannins provide serious structure for the juicy cherry and plum fruit, and fresh acid makes it easy to drink. The non-fruit flavors of pepper, charcoal, tobacco and rosemary are delicious. This blend of 54% Grenache, 26% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah could develop even more complexity over the next few years in the cellar. About 50% of the wine was whole cluster fermented. Any Châteauneuf-du-Pape comparisons are completely justified. (90 points)

2010 Donelan Syrah Walker Vine Hill - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley ($45)
This Syrah is incredibly young, but with air it begins to show its class and complexity. Aromas of fig and blueberry jam combine with smoke, violets and charcoal. Dark and bold on the palate, with iron-like tannins and medium acid. The blackberry and blueberry fruit is pure and delicious, accented by flavors of coffee, sage and ginger snap cookie. Despite its boldness, this Syrah somehow maintains balance. Clearly a wine for the cellar, I’d lay this down for at least a year, if not two or three. Otherwise, a decanter is highly recommended. I’m very impressed. (91 points)

2010 Donelan Syrah Cuvée Christine - California, Sonoma County ($45)
Dark and deep on the nose, I get blackberry, blueberry, charcoal and sweet violet aromas. With air, the nuances of pepper and spices started coming out. Grippy tannins kickstart the palate, but there’s enough acid for balance. The fig and fresh blackberry fruit is strikingly pure and deep, accented by notes of meat, pepper and charcoal. This Syrah clearly has some complexity packed in, but it’s so young that air alone can’t fully coax out those additional characteristics. I really think this needs to be squirreled away for three-to-five to show its full potential. A blend of Syrah from four different vineyards, 35% of the fruit is whole cluster fermented and 30% new oak used. (90 points)

2010 Donelan Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Green Valley ($45)
On the nose, the Kobler Vineyard Syrah is much more floral and red-fruit focused, with bright raspberries and red plum aromas mixing with roses, violets and potting soil. It has the fresh aromatic theme of a flower garden after the rain. Fine tannins, crisp acid and 12.8% alcohol give this wine an elegant feel. The raspberry and plum fruit is fresh but still ripe. Notes of grilled meat, herbs and pepper add complexity. This 97/3 Syrah/Viognier is fermented with 40% whole clusters and aged 24 months in French oak, none of which is new. A real beauty. (92 points)

I don’t want to overlook the 2011 Donelan Chardonnay Nancie, from the Sonoma Coast appellation ($45). It didn’t wow me as much as the reds, but it’s still a quality Sonoma Coast chardonnay. I got aromas of melon, pear and popcorn, mixed with notes of limestone and sea shell. It’s juicy and ripe on the palate, with flavors of melon, honey, almond and butterscotch. Creamy body, but fresh acid keeps it in check.

I’m looking forward to seeing where the Donelan team takes this relatively new endeavor. So far, Donelan Wines offer a journey that I’d recommend to anyone.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.