Wednesday, November 15, 2023

Texas wines for turkey day

Texas wine has been growing and evolving for decades now, and, at least from my perspective, the quality across the board seems to have gotten higher and higher since I’ve been paying attention.

Reds are key here, and you’re likely to find some varietal or blended wines that include some classic Bordeaux varieties, Rhone grapes, and cool other grapes like Alicante Bouschet and Graciano.

If you’re looking to drink American this Thanksgiving weekend (and, hey, why not!), try Texas! But whites (especially Rhone grapes) can really excel here, too. Yes, some of these wines can be hard to find (depending on your market), but a lot of producers ship direct from their winery.

C.L. Butaud is a maverick winery that produces some super cool wines with a lot of flair and style. I’ve been stoked on all the wines I’ve tasted from this winery. For example, most of their wines are sold in black bottles, with black labels, and black type – which I just find hilarious and fun. I find the wines, however, to be serious, age-worthy, and impressive. Their Cease and Desist red blend would be a great wine for grilled meats, cool evenings, or to have at the card table with friends.

Credit: Texas Heritage Vineyard
I also recently attended a webinar hosted by Texas Heritage Vineyard in the Hill Country AVA and had the pleasure of tasting through three of their wines. The winery is owned by Billy Johnson, and his wife (Texas Gulf Coast native Susan Johnson) also works as co-winemaker. Houston native Tyler Buddemeyer takes the primary winemaking role. In 2015, the Johnsons planted their first vines, kicking off their dream of starting a family-run winery that honors Texas. Located in the Texas wine corridor of Fredericksburg, Texas, their production facility was finished in 2017. Today, they farm more than 12 acres of grapes like Alicante Bouschet, Malbec, Tannat, Tempranillo, and Viognier. They’re not even a decade in, and things seem to be running smoothly. I’ve tried one or two of their wines before this, but the trio included in this report is quite impressive.

If you’re getting together with family in Texas, why not pick up some local vino? And if you’ve never tried wine from the Lone Stare State, there hasn’t been a better time. I certainly hope to visit Texas Wine Country one day and dig in more myself.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Texas Heritage Viognier Wildseed Farms Vineyard - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. For a Viognier, this just strikes me as a lot lighter than I was expecting – in a good way, as Viognier can get way too heavy for me. There’s juicy yellow apples, papaya, drizzled with lime, along with a lot of white and yellow flowers, some honey and chalk dust, too. The palate is ripe but lively and fresh with a pleasantly creamy, medium-bodied appeal. The flavors of yellow pears, white peaches, and yellow plums are delicious, and backed up with tones of floral perfume, celery seed, honey, white tea, and almond skin. A lot of fun, this is a balanced and tasty Viognier. Served blind, however, I would more likely guess Sauv Blanc than Viognier. (89 points)

2020 Texas Heritage Syrah Gotneaux Creek Vineyard - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $44
Medium ruby color. The nose has a cool mix of darker fruits as expected (black cherries, blueberries) with fresh raspberries, and the fruit has a lot of nice spicy elements – black pepper, black olive, some loamy soil, smashed rocks thrown in. The palate is medium-bodied and fresh, which hits the spot, and it sports dusty-fine tannins. Flavors of crunchy blueberries mix with red cherries and raspberries, backed up with notes of coffee, roasted herbs, roasted red pepper, along with some coffee grounds and dark chocolate shavings. Delightful now but should also improve – a fun, spicy, fresh Texas Syrah. (88 points)

2019 Texas Heritage Alicante Bouschet Estate - USA, Texas, Texas Hill Country
SRP: $48
Deep purple color. A dark purple color with a saucy nose of dark fruits (blackberries, blueberries, cassis) along with complex notes of pencil shavings, charcoal, tar, roasted red pepper, magic marker, all sorts of deep, spicy tones. The palate has serious grip, a medium-full body, and delightfully refreshing, which makes this concentrated wine refreshing. Flavors of blackberries, wild blueberries, and tart currant blend nicely with nuances of graphite, anise, cocoa, and coffee grounds. There’s lots of stony, dusty earth vibes and all sorts of peppery vibes on the finish. Varietally classic Alicante with a Texas twist. (90 points)

2021 C.L. Butaud Cease & Desist - USA, Texas, Texas High Plains
SRP: $48
Deep ruby color. A deep but vibrant aromatic display of juicy black cherries, saucy plums, along with a complex web of mesquite, spicy red pepper, cracked black pepper, beef jerky, and a lot of sage and other herbs. The palate is ripe and juicy with saucy black cherries, tart red and black currants, along with suave tannins and vibrant acidity. Things line up pretty well! The non-fruit flavors really pop here, with roasted red peppers, roasted chestnuts, black tea, and all sorts of savory herbs and spices. A ripe and sun-roasted wine but with a nuanced appeal. 73% Tempranillo, 20% Mourvèdre, 7% Grenache, aged in 60% new French oak. (90 points)

Sunday, November 12, 2023

Diversity and value in South American wines

This week, I have a diverse roundup of wines from South America.

Argentina was one of the first wine regions I really explored. Mostly because, well, it was easy! The grapes were labeled by variety, fruity and accessible, and full of value. But the deeper I dug, the more I found intriguing and complex wines. I’ve been following along ever since, and I always appreciate how the reasonable prices allow a wider audience to check out the offerings.

But if you’re looking to splurge, and want to do so wisely, high-end Chilean Cabernet is a great bet. Long-aging capability, deep and juicy fruit, and a whole lot of spicy, mineral complexity – I love it. From Errazuriz, and the amazing Aconcagua Valley -- the Don Maximo is a stunner.

To spice things up, there’s a Cab Franc from Uruguay as well – which would be a ton of fun in a blind tasting.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Bodega Otronia Chardonnay Block III & VI
 - Argentina, Patagonia
SRP: $65
Medium yellow color. The aromas show a rich mix of pineapple, yellow apples, lemon bars, along with notes of honey, nougat, corn husk, along with some salt brine and chalk dust elements. The palate is generous but balanced and focused, with a medium-bodied feel and vibrant acidity. The palate sports lemons, key limes, yellow apples and pears, lovely fruit mixed with nougat, honey, almond bars, and white tea elements. Finishes with a clear, salty appeal. Harmonious and delicious, call me impressed! Fun fact -- this comes from the southernmost winery on the planet. (91 points)

2021 Trapiche Chardonnay Gran Medalla - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The aromas show ripe oranges, bruised yellow pears, with honey, almond butter, some chalk dust, hints of sea salt and yellow flowers. Ripe and rich on the palate with medium acidity that keeps it fresh, and flavors of candied orange peel and yellow apples and pears. The fruit is backed up by elements of butterscotch and cinnamon crumb cake, but also these chalky, sea salt, almond skin tones. The best of both Chardonnay worlds in this seriously value-driven wine. (88 points)

2021 Domaine Bousquet Pinot Noir Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Light ruby color. A bright and spicy red-fruited aromatic display of cranberry relish, raspberries, strawberries, along with elements of white pepper, rhubarb, dried rose petals, and a mix of black pepper and spice/herb blends. The palate sports zippy acidity, light and dusty tannins, with vibrant red fruits like cranberry relish, crunchy red apples, and fresh strawberries. The fruit is blended well with tones of white pepper, spiced tea, rose hips, along with sage, pickling spices, and other savory tones. Fun, balanced, a real crowd-pleaser but complex and elegant as well. A screaming value. (90 points)

2021 Terrazas de Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Aromas are spicy and saucy with sweet plums, juicy black cherries, mixed with inviting tones of coffee, dark chocolate, and black tea, with spicy-herbal vibes. The palate is smooth, warm, and juicy with soft but chewy tannins and fresh acidity. The fruit has a nice mix of jammy black cherries with tangier red fruits as well (raspberries and strawberries). The earth and herbal tones really add a nice mix to this, with elements of tobacco, black pepper, leather, roasted herbs. Fun, accessible, in a good way. (88 points)

2021 Terrazas de Los Andes Malbec Reserva - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Smells warm and inviting with raspberries, plum sauce, raisins, with roses and violets, savory tones, pepper, milk chocolate. The palate is smooth and ripe with juicy, chewy tannins and moderating acidity. The flavors of raspberries and blackberry jams blend well with tons of gravelly loam, smoky earth, spicy tones of bell pepper and sage, with leather and coffee. Really fun and crushable, but complex and balanced well, too. (88 points)

2019 Terrazas de Los Andes Grand Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $60
Dark purple color. A concentrated aromatic display of dark plums, cassis, blueberry jam, which is all mixed well with complex elements of smashed rocks, charcoal, graphite, along with mint, chewing tobacco, and coffee grounds – lots do parse through. The palate sports generous texture and lively acidity with medium grip and flavors of tangy cassis and black cherries. The wine is laced with minerals, graphite, smashed rocks, lots of earth, and tones of oregano, black pepper, black tea, violets. Will only get better with time. (91 points)

2019 Mascota Vineyards Pinot Noir Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $25
Bright ruby color. The nose pops with super fresh, crunchy red fruits (raspberries, cherries, strawberries, along with warm clay, dried roses and violet petals, some mint and tobacco notes. The palate is really fun and accessible, but balanced as well, with supple tannins and fresh acidity to support the black cherry and juicy raspberry fruit. Notes of mint, tobacco, violets, spicy herbs, and black pepper offer a lot of nuance and complexity, with gentle kisses of oak. Pure fun and delicious, but “serious” at the same time. (90 points)

2019 Mascota Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Unánime Signature - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $35
Rich purple color. Complex aromas that sport black cherries, saucy plums, tangy blueberries, backed up with tobacco, graphite, mocha, fallen leaves, and cedar for a warm, inviting appeal. The palate shows refined tannins with vibrant acidity and a smooth and balanced mouthfeel. Flavors of black currants and roasted figs abound, and I get notes of earth, sage, campfire, graphite, Autumn woods. And there’s some coffee grounds, mineral, and dark chocolate shavings on the finish. Suave, ripe, but nuanced and smooth. Great to drink now but could hold as well, and a good call for a holiday party red for the cold weather. Aged 14 months in French oak. (92 points)

2020 Bodega Experimental Cabernet Franc Viña Progreso Overground - Uruguay, Progreso
SRP: $26
Light purple color. Aromas of currant and plum jams kick things off, followed up by a mix of meaty, spicy, peppery, with roasted herbs, black tea, notes of sun-dried tomato and basil. The palate is smooth with fresh acidity and a dusty, chewy feel to the tannins. I get tones of black and red currants, with plum sauce, mixed with tones of smoked meats, black pepper, all sorts of other herbs and spices. I can’t really find another regional Cab Franc to compare this to, it’s just its own thing. (89 points)

2018 Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve - Chile, Aconcagua Valley
SRP: $105
Bright purple color. On the nose, there is a deep core of currants, black cherries, a jar of fig paste you might find at a really nice farmer’s market, along with a complex host of lavender, loamy earth, charcoal, cedar, mint – really needs some time or a good decant to get going. On the palate, this has structured but refined tannins, fresh acidity, and a juicy, tangy frame of dark fruits (black cherries, cassis, dark plums). The wine is packed with nuance and complexity, with waves of savory herbs and spices, tones of minerals, dusty earth, and loam, along with roasted red pepper, lavender, anise, leather. Delicious and complex, harmonious but will reward the patient. Cabernet Sauvignon with some Malbec, this is an absolute stunner and long-term cellar friend. (94 points)