Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week, I’m tackling another group of wines from all over the globe.

Starting off with the newest vintage of Trivento’s flagship Malbec, Eolo, the 2014 again delivers a mouthful of delicious, complex, cellar-worthy Mendoza goodness.

A few Spanish wines make an appearance in this week’s report, including two inexpensive but solid Riojas from renowned producer Bodegeas Lan. Carpenè Malvolti brings a pair of Italian bubbles into the mix. And South African stalwart Mulderbosch delivers four wines that bring serious quality at their respective price points.

There’s a new red blend from Virginia winery Early Mountain that I really want to highlight. The inaugural 2015 vintage of their Rise red (a Merlot-based blend), really shines. It should, considering the price point, but this is a serious, delicious, Virginia red blend that will stand the test of time.

I also received three wines from the Firstleaf wine club. Consumers can fill out a quick quiz to generate their first three-pack of wines for $15, plus shipping. The wines each come with story cards that provide technical and more general information about the wine or region. Members can rate their wines on the club’s website, and those ratings are used to generate more personalized wine selections for future shipments. I tasted three wines from an introductory shipment.

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Trivento Malbec Eolo - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo
SRP: $79
Deep purple color. Rich and enticing on the palate with waves of plums, blackberry, currant, kirsch, backed up by complex and evolving notes of anise, scorched earth, coffee grounds, mint chocolate chip, violets. Solid grip but no harsh tannins, this is velvety and smooth with medium acidity and pretty dark plum, blackberry and black currant fruit. Complex elements of leather, scorched earth, eucalyptus, mint, dark chocolate, tobacco. A complex mineral, earth, smashed rock element, too. A long-ager for sure but this is beautiful young. (92 points)

N.V. Carpenè Malvolti Rosé Cuvée Brut - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $20
Bright watermelon color. Aromas of wild strawberries, white cherries, roses, spicy herbal notes. Juicy and fleshy on the palate but tangy, too, with watermelon and strawberry fruit. Notes of spicy herbs, rose petals, baby’s breath, which combines well with the fruit. Finishes fresh and salty. 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Raboso. (87 points)

N.V. Carpenè Malvolti Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 1868 - Italy, Veneto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
SRP: $19
Pale straw color. Aromas of sea salt, dandelion, magnolia petals, baby’s breath and green apples. Tart and brisk on the palate with lemon, green apples and limes, backed up with a floral punch of magnolia, rosewater and dandelion. Sea salt and dusty, flinty notes add complexity. Crisp and delicious, quite complex for the price. 100% Glera. (88 points)

2017 Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc - South Africa, Western Cape
SRP: $17
Medium yellow color. Super fresh and green and crunchy on the nose (limes, kiwi, green apples) with white pepper, sea salt, lemongrass and fresh, floral breezy notes. Crisp and zesty on the palate but nice depth and texture. Green apples, apricot, lemons and limes, backed up with sea salt, honeysuckle, an interesting herbal/spicy note that accents the wine but doesn’t dominate the other elements. So well put-together, this is a great vintage of this wine which is, per usual, killer for the price. (90 points)

2016 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Single Vineyard Block A - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch, Bottelary
SRP: $33
Deep yellow color. Whoa! On the nose, a burst of tropical insanity (pineapple, white peaches, some lemon curd) doused in lamp oil, sea spray, nougat, honey butter, hay and rich vanilla. Plump and juicy on the palate, zesty but rich, with flavors of key lime pie, bruised yellow pear and fresh white peaches. Rich and suave but bright, too, with really cool minerals, ginger, musky cologne and sea spray, honeyed white tea. From 33-year-old vines, this shows the ripeness of the vintage and was aged 10 months on in French oak barrels. (91 points)

2017 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé - South Africa, Coastal Region
SRP: $12
Pale watermelon color. Fresh and floral nose with white pepper, nettle, rose petals, and some juicy strawberry and white cherry aromas. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, but there’s a plush, inviting mouthfeel as well. White cherries, strawberries, watermelon, mixed together nicely with white pepper, sliced cucumber, nettle, rose hips, some breezy, salty notes. Lovely balance with fruit, freshness and complex flavors. (88 points)

2015 Mulderbosch Faithful Hound - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
SRP: $22
Light purple color. The nose shows gobs of black cherries, currants and blueberries, along with lots of black pepper, leather, sage, bay leaf, vanilla and cedar. Tangy acidity keeps this full-bodied, medium tannin red stay fresh, but this is also a big and dark wine loaded with black currants and blueberries. Lots of black pepper, cigar smoke, menthol, with dark chocolate and vanilla woven in nicely. Ready to go or could hold for a few years, this packs a lot of complexity for the price point. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, aged in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2017 Delia Tempranillo - Spain
SRP: $9
Medium ruby color. Juicy raspberries, cherries and red currants on the nose with sweet roses, tobacco and cola. Medium-bodied and fresh on the palate with light, easygoing tannins. Raspberries, cherries and strawberries, juicy but tangy fruit, mixed with roses, herbs, menthol, smoke and coffee. Light and fresh but lots of fun, and really solid for the price. (86 points)

2015 Bodegas LAN Rioja Crianza D-12 Eighth Edition - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Aromas of tangy black cherries mixed with spice rub, tobacco, leather, vanilla and cedar. Full-bodied, smooth tannins, with tangy acidity, and it mixes well with the crunchy, tart black cherry and currant fruit. Notes of scorched earth, tobacco, leather, some black olive, topped with vanilla and coffee. Delicious, early-drinking Rioja. (87 points)

2010 Bodegas LAN Rioja Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Smells of tart black cherries and currants, tangy plums (just smelling it makes my mouth water), with mint, tobacco, coffee, loamy soil and graphite notes. Fresh acidity frames the wine nicely, solidly-gripping tannins mix with tart black cherries and currants, backed up with violets, black pepper, mint, black tea, coffee, lots of complex elements. Underlying earthy, mineral notes, this is a vibrant and fresh wine but also structured and ageworthy. Tempranillo from Rioja Alta and 10% Mazuelo. (89 points)
 

2015 Early Mountain Vineyards Rise - USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Madison County
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. The nose shows gorgeous depth of fruit (blackberry, cassis, dark plums, roasted fig), along with lavender, violets, sweet cocoa and wet forest/woodsy notes. Solid tannic backbone on the palate but underlying fresh acidity keeps it in lovely balance. Tart black cherries, currants and plums, tangy but bountiful fruit, laced with anise, violets, clove, coffee, all woven together so nicely. Pure, delicious, complex, I’d love to cellar this for a decade. Early Mountain makes a serious statement with the inaugural vintage of this Rise red. 57% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 14% Petit Verdot, and 14% Tannat, sourced from their Quaker Run vineyards on the southern side of Doubletop Mountain. 240 cases produced. (91 points)

2017 International Archives Sémillon - Australia
SRP: $22
Deep yellow color. Nose shows apricot, pineapple, lemongrass, honey and a rosewater note. Plush texture, moderate acid keeps it bright as juicy white peach and pineapple fruit carry the wine. Honey, some cotton candy notes, baby’s breath and cut flower stem notes. Fun, crowd-pleasing stuff for the money. From Firstleaf. (85 points)

2017 Paso del Tiempo Syrah - Spain
SRP: $26
Deep purple color. Nose of juicy raspberries, sweet plums, cola, coffee, roses. Full-bodied with soft tannins and medium acidity. Tart plums meet sweet raspberries and candied cherries, backed up by roses, sweet cola and coffee. Fun, simple, crowd-pleasing stuff. From Firstleaf. (85 points)

2017 PrimaZon Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $26
Light purple color. Aromas of dark plums and black cherries, along with violets, warm clay, tobacco, cedar, espresso. Fresh acidity on the palate frames the wine nicely, and it has velvety, accessible tannins. Tangy black cherries, plums, raspberry jam, the fruit is mixed with cola, coffee, sweet pipe tobacco and vanilla. Fun, pleasant, widely-likeable stuff. From Firstleaf. (86 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

New, Exciting U.S. Imports from South Africa

If you’ve been a regular reader over the years, you may have heard me rant about South African wines. I love them. After a three-week pilgrimage there in 2014, my love for this country’s wines grew exponentially, as I realized how many exceptional wines were out there. The problem? Most were made in small amounts and weren’t available in the U.S.

Things have changed a bit since then, as more small importers are focusing on bringing high-quality South African wines to the U.S., many of which boast very attractive price points. One such group, New Jersey-based Vine Street Imports, sent me some wines from two South African producers that seem primed for the U.S. market.

Jurgen Gouws kicked off Intellego Wines in 2009. Although he doesn’t own any vineyards, or a cellar of his own, his passion for vibrant, nuanced wines is evident in the glass. He works with growers in Swartland to source fruit, and has a special love for the region’s older bush vines.

Francois Haasbroek is the man behind Blackwater Wine, which became his full-time focus in 2012. After studying at Stellenbosch University, and working stints in California and New Zealand, he was hired as winemaker at Stellenbosch’s Waterford Wine Estate, where he worked for nine years. Now with his own project, Francois sources grapes from all over South Africa’s Western Cape and focuses on natural acidity and steer away from density and new oak.

Both producers seem (to me), to be the kind of wines I want to see more of in the U.S., so I was excited to receive these samples, which I tasted sighted. My notes are below.

2016 Blackwater Sauvignon Blanc High Roller - South Africa, Coastal Region, Darling
SRP: $16
Light yellow color. Bursting aromatics of apricots, limes, nettle, chalk, cut flower stems. Fresh and fun on the palate, a crisp, salty, oyster-friendly appeal but shows a lot of spicy complexity. Apricots, limes, orange pith, mixed with baby’s breath, honeysuckle and some sea salt. Don’t let the cutesy label fool you, this is very pretty South African Sauv. Blanc. (88 points)

2016 Intellego Chenin Blanc - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. Whoa! Aromas pop: apricots, yellow apples, limes, lots of saline, honeycomb, white tea. So vibrant on the palate with rich textural depth combining well with a crisp, salty appeal. Flavors of yellow plums, apricots, drizzled with lime. The complexity is impressive, with notes of honeyed tea, sea salt, crushed shells and wild flowers. This is fascinating, deep, delicious, a great reminder of how good South African Chenin Blanc can be for the money. The grapes are sourced from 30- to 40-year-old vines. (91 points)

2018 Blackwater Lazy Lucy Rosé - South Africa, Coastal Region, Paarl
SRP: $15
Light watermelon color. On the nose I get bright strawberries, white cherries, crushed sweet tart candies, white pepper – cool combo! Light and brisk style, lean and crunchy feel to it but plenty of flavor (white cherries, watermelon, honeydew). Notes of white pepper and clove. Fresh and tasty but some solid complexity for this price, I could see this getting a lot of love from a thirsty crowd. 56% Cinsault, 44% Syrah. (88 points)

2016 Intellego Kedungu - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
SRP: $26
Light purple color. OK, so this wine is a wee bit different, for sure! Aromatically, I get wild strawberries, smoked meat, and a funky, spicy, sour mix that reminds me of a sour framboise. Tart on the palate with light tannins, this is super tangy and tart wine (only 11% alcohol) with raspberries and sour cherries. A complex mix if interesting non-fruit elements (black pepper, roasted lamb, leather). Weird but it’s also tasty. If you’re in a funky, adventurous mood, try out this blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre. (87 points)

2017 Blackwater Grenache Daniel - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
SRP: $29
Bright ruby color. Aromas of juicy black cherries and loads of non-fruit spicy, herbal, beefy notes (roses, black pepper, soy, leather, tobacco, anise and beef drippings. Fresh and vibrant on the palate with surprising acidity, some light-dusty tannins, and black cherries and raspberry fruit. Tossed together with black pepper, soy sauce, bacon fat and some rose potpourri. Spicy but not too crazy, it stays fresh and lively as well. Delish. All Grenache from a single vineyard in Botrivier, 40% whole cluster fermentation, aged six months in old French oak. (90 points)

2015 Blackwater Wine Syrah Noir - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
SRP: $25
Deep ruby/light purple color. Aromas of black cherries, red and black currants, lots of leather, black pepper, barbecue smoke, beef broth. Medium+ bodied with moderate acidity that helps keep the wine fresh, medium tannins. Spicy black cherries, currants and plums, scorched earth, beef broth, leather, clove. Complex but lots of fun, with a fresh, spicy, barbecue-friendly appeal. Includes a bit of Grenache and Carignan, aged 27 months in old French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Paso Robles - Beyond Bordeaux & Rhone Reds

A vineyard in the Templeton Gap District of Paso Robles, which I visited in early September.

Paso Robles built its reputation on big, juicy red wines made from Rhone or Bordeaux varieties. That reputation is well-earned, as there are thrilling Cabs, Syrahs, Mourvedres, and all sorts of blends, coming out of Paso. But, after spending a few days exploring the wine scene in this Central Coast wine region, I came away impressed with lots of wines, made from grapes that might surprise you. And a lot of them are really, really good.

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely planted grape in Paso Robles, and Bordeaux varieties make up 55% of the region’s vineyard acreage, according to the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance. And there are Rhone grapes (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Counoise, Petite Sirah), all over the place. Add in Zinfandel, and you’ve got most of Paso’s wine covered.

But to focus solely on those wines (as good as they are) would be to miss out on a lot really cool stuff. I found several white Rhones that were salty, brisk and delicious (Grenache Blanc, usually blended, seems to do exceedingly well here.) More producers and releasing rosé, both from Rhone and other grapes, so there are plenty of lively, spicy pinks out in Paso. Then there are wines made from Spanish, Portuguese, and Italian grapes.

Paso’s varied soils and microclimates allow conscientious winegrowers to explore all sorts of grapes for all sorts of wine styles. More than 40 grape varieties are grown in Paso Robles, and there is likely room for growth in that department.

These wines were tasted in Paso Robles, sighted, usually with the winemaker.

2016 Brecon Estate Viognier-Grenache Blanc

$34
The aromas on this white blend pop like crazy with white peaches, green melons, lime zest, floral perfume. Plump and peachy with guava nectar, honey, slight oily note, but also fresh and lively. Medium acid from the Grenache Blanc, juicy honeyed fruit from the Viognier, this is a fun blend with a good combo of oily-honey aspects with crisp, salty aspects. (50/50 Viognier and Grenache Blanc) (89 points)

2015 Brecon Estate Albariño
$30
Bright but tropical nose with white peaches, pineapple, and some almond, sea salt notes. Crisp but nice weight on the palate (a stirred lees character is evident, and adds complexity). Peaches and green melon, orange zest and honey, but a bright salty streak throughout, this is a very pretty and quite complex Albarino. There are a bunch of producers in Paso taking this grape seriously, and it shows. (90 points)

2016 Vino Vargas Albariño Aha!
$24
The nose shows peaches and bright oranges, along with flowers and sea breeze. Zesty and bright on the palate with a dry, mouthwatering feel despite the solid depth of peach and apricot fruit. Flowers and sea salt, drizzled with lime, that’s the finish. Lovely. I’m stoked a bunch of Paso winemakers are taking Albarino seriously, because it can work really well. (90 points)

2010 Denner Viognier
$ n/a
Oily and rich on the nose with almond and lemon curd. Creamy but shows vibrancy. Lemon, quince, almond, hay, candle wax. Oily but not heavy and surprisingly fresh at this age. A great example of how Paso wines (and not just reds), can age very nicely. From winemaker Anthony Yount's first year as winemaker, this is an excellent effort, an eye-opening one for me. (91 points)

2015 Denner Viognier
$48
Aromatics show peaches and lemon curd with brighter floral tones and notes of almond and candle wax. Richness and creaminess is helped by moderate acidity. Peaches and lemon curd blend with spiced tea, honey and almond. Very nice stuff, and an interesting comparison back-to-back with the 2010. (90 points)

2013 Le Cuvíer Viognier
$58
Bold golden color (this is made with significant skin contact). Awesome aromatic blend of honey, almond, olive oil, dried mango, circus peanuts. On the palate this is plush and waxy but actually shows some acidity to balance it out. Plump apricot, mango slices, orange marmalade, I also get flavors of warm honey and tea, almond skin, clove, green tea leaves. Whoa, this is unique, crazy, wild, delicious stuff. It’s made like a red wine and aged 42 months in old oak and served at cellar temperature. Very cool. I could see lots of people disliking this, but I find it fascinating and delicious. (91 points)

2012 Derby Wine Estates Project España
$32
Nose shows fresh red fruits and bright roses. Medium tannins, vibrant acidity, crisp red fruit, this is a spicy, pepper, herb-tinged homage to Spanish Tempranillo-based blends, and it pulls it off well. But it still has this saucy fruit/fresh mineral combo that is uniquely Paso. Really fun stuff. Tempranillo with Graciano, Grenache and Carignan. (89 points)

2015 Wild Horse Blaufränkisch Reserve
$30
The nose is spicy and awesome, with red and blue fruit, laced with cinnamon and dark spiced tea. Plush and juicy on the palate with solid tannic bite and medium/fresh acidity. Lots of spice cake, cinnamon, herbal tea. Seriously deep and fresh. (91 points)

2015 Pasoport Wine Co. Chenin Blanc Per Caso
$27
I was stoked to finally taste a Chenin on this trip, and I was shocked by how good this one was. Nose is super zippy with lemon pith, lime, sea salt, chalk dust. Full of acidity and salinity on the palate but pretty texture and weight as well. Lemon/lime and pineapple blend with crushed shells and rocks, sea spray and almond shell. Really cool stuff. (90 points)

2012 Pasoport Wine Co. Per Caso Iberian Blend
$45
Aromas gush with red and black cherries, blueberries, rolled together with coffee and incense sticks. Great concentration on the palate, sturdy but refreshing, with black cherry and currant compote-style fruit, along with complex elements of clove, spiced coffee, pepper, mint and earth. Long finish, long time ahead, I’m really enjoying this blend of Portuguese grapes. 63% Touriga Nacional, 29% Tinto Cão, 8% Souzão. (91 points)

2013 Pasoport Wine Co. Touriga Nacional Per Caso
$49
Bursting aromas of raspberry jam and red currants, along with spicy clove, sweet herbs and red licorice. Juicy on the palate but nice grip to the tannins, gushing red fruits mix with pepper, charcoal, black tea, cocoa and coffee notes. Per Caso’s Glenrose Vineyard wines are making me think I need to see more Paso wines made from Portuguese grapes, because these wines are firing. 100% Touriga Nacional. (91 points)

2013 Seashell Cellars Balboa Reserve

$25
Love the charred herbs on the nose, and some black cherries, raspberry jam and cocoa powder. Silky, velvety, beautiful texture and nice balance, with lots of crushed blueberries and plums. Notes of mocha, charcoal, herbs, tobacco, and anise. Grippy and forward but delicious and complex, too. Tempranillo-based blend. (91 points)

2016 Clesi Malvasia Bianca San Bernabe
$24
Punchy nose with apricots, mango, floral extract. Floral and bright on the palate with so, so much lychee, and some peach and honey. Dry, super tropical and a bit heavily floral but it stays fresh and goes down easy. (87 points)

2014 Clesi Dolcetto Nevarez Vineyard
$28
Aromas of sweet black cherries, red flowers, cola and tar. On the palate it shows dusty tannins, zesty acid, lots of black cherry and currant compote. Smoky herbal tones meet sweet violets. Delicious, well-balanced example of this grape – very impressive. (89 points)

2014 Clesi Sangiovese
$36
Pretty red currants, violets and roses on the nose, with some spiced berry tea. Pretty, so pretty on the palate with silky tannins, fresh acidity, spicy red currants. Notes of violets, cola, tobacco and rosemary add complexity. Nice stuff. (89 points)

2014 Clesi Convivio

$34
Aromas of red currants and cherries, along with evocative waves of fruit and spice, violets and black tea. Silky, fleshy red fruit with spicy earth, tar and clove flavors on a medium-bodied, sturdy but fresh frame. This producer’s only blended wine, it’s 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 20% Sangiovese. (90 points)

2012 Clesi Aglianico
$36
Wow, the nose is super spicy and awesome with cherries, red currants, pepper, bay leaf, tar. Structured with bold tannins and medium acidity. Grippy but vibrant, delicious but complex with currants, iodine, tar, pepper and leather – lots going on here, and lots to show over the next five years. (90 points)

2013 Clesi Aglianico
$36
Fresher than the 2012, with more juicy cherries, some delicious leather, pepper and sage. Grippy but silky, vibrant acidity. Black cherries and red currants mix with sage, pepper, tar and mocha. Another awesome interpretation of this killer grape. Chris knows his stuff! (90 points)

2013 Clesi Aglianico Amphora
$36
Wow, this is fascinating to taste this next to the one aged in barrel. The amphora adds this airy, floral delicacy to a wine that can be dense and powerful. Spicy floral, lifted aromatics, tarter red fruits. On the palate this has great grip but such freshness and vibrancy. Pretty red fruits and spices – bold flavors but also airy and elegant. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

This week I have a hodgepodge of wines from all around the world.

I recently tasted a Chenin and a red blend from a new project called Lubanzi. These are South African wines brought in by two young Americans, Charles Brain and Walker Brown, who fell in love with South African wines (as I did) while traveling around Cape Town. There are so many great winemakers and old vines in South Africa, but we don’t get nearly enough of them in the States, so it’s awesome to see folks like those behind Lubanzi bringing in some high-quality, value-driven South African vino.

We also have a Locations wines from Dave Phinney and two different Sauvignon Blanc’s from New Zealand’s Nobilo. Lastly, I really liked a zesty, complex dry Furmint from Oremus.

N.V. Locations Corse - France, Corsica, Corse

SRP: $19

Medium yellow color. Interesting nose, it seriously smells like new tennis balls and Lego sets mixed with lychee, white peach and cherry blossom. Light-bodied, moderate acidity, a smooth presence on the palate with more nuance than bombast. Lemon, white peach and lychee fruit blends nicely with floral perfume and new tennis balls. Fun stuff. Made from Vermentino. (85 points) 

2015 Oremus Furmint Tokaji Dry Mandolás - Hungary, Tokaji

SRP: $25

Medium straw color. Pretty aromatic complexity based around apricot, nectarine, lime, topped in chamomile, yellow flowers and a dusty/chalky minerality. Bright and vigorous with precise acidity but plenty of body and texture. Clean and zesty with orange, limes and apricots, mixed with chalk dust, white flowers, dandelion, honeycomb, some nougat and candle wax elements. Rich and complex but also bright and vibrant. An exciting dry Furmint. (90 points)

2016 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Regional Collection Marlborough - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

SRP: $13

Pale straw color. Nose of bitter lemon, ruby red grapefruit, sliced jalapeno and onion grass. Zesty and fresh style on the palate with lime and grapefruit backed up by green onion, sliced jalapeno, some honeysuckle and yellow flower notes hang on the finish. Crisp, clean, this is a reliable standard-bearer for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc at this price point. (86 points)

2016 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc Icon - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

SRP: $22

Pale straw/lime peel colored. Strongly grassy on the nose with sliced bell pepper, dandelion, cucumber water, on top of lemons and grapefruit. More texture on the palate with bright acidity. More green herb notes (rosemary, basil), with cut grass and jalapeno, on top of fresh limes and grapefruit. Lip-smacking stuff for fans of the Marlborough greenies. (87 points)

2016 Lubanzi Wines Chenin Blanc Leeuwenkuil Vineyard - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland

SRP: $18

Medium yellow color. Nose of lemon curd, orange peel, apricot, chalk dust, crushed shells, honeysuckle and raw almond. Fresh and vibrant on the palate with medium-body, brisk acidity and a juicy fruit presence (white peach, apricot and nectarine, green melon) with notes of white tea, honey and chalk. Vibrant minerality, a bright white flower, honeysuckle and dandelion aspect. So lively and, crisp, so food-friendly, long, deep finish. Very pretty stuff with surprising depth and complexity. (90 points)

2015 Lubanzi Wines Red Blend - South Africa, Coastal Region

SRP: $18

Light purple color. Smells of sweet plums and juicy red cherries topped with leather, pepper, sage and eucalyptus. Medium-bodied with fresh acidity and moderate tannins. Red plums and raspberry mixes with a host of roasted herbs, eucalyptus, pine smoke and roses. Complex but accessible with a fresh, vibrant finish. 46% Shiraz, 31% Cinsault, 20% Mourvedre, 3% Grenache. (88 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

A Grab Bag of California Wines

Near the turn of the year, I had a bunch of unrelated California wines left to taste, and none of them seemed to fit into a coherent category. So I threw them together for a grab bag tasting.

I’ve got a few from Gamling & McDuck, a label with an off-the-wall aesthetic approach but seriously good juice in the bottle. We also take a look at some wines from Jamieson Ranch, which sources grapes from Napa, Sonoma, and beyond, and produces several brands at varied price points. Lastly, Chronic Cellars makes an appearance; these wines are a few steps up from some of the big brands that purvey those residual sugar-laden, generic California AVA wines. These are jammy, fun, un-structured wines for easy-drinking. Oh, and a 2013 Cardinale Cabernet — whoa.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2015 Gamling & McDuck Chenin Blanc Mangel's Ranch - California, North Coast, Suisun Valley

SRP: $26
Pale yellow color. Gorgeous aromatics of dandelion, cut flower stems, honeysuckle, chalk dust, drizzled over lemon, apple and apricot. Medium-bodied, vibrant acidity keeps this wine so crisp but there’s a pleasant richness and lees-aging notes of waxiness to the texture as well. Green and yellow apples and lemons mix with chalk, minerals, honey, and notes of flowers and herbal tea. Beautiful stuff with a long, crisp, blissful finish. (90 points) 

2015 Reata Chardonnay - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $20
Light gold color. Smells of salted lemon, apricot, dandelion and honeysuckle. Creamy texture on the palate but lots of fresh acidity. The creamy pear, tart apple and apricot fruit is topped in toasted nuts, sea shells and honeysuckle. For $20, this Chardonnay brings a lot of freshness and depth. (87 points) 

2014 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Chardonnay Light Horse - California
SRP: $15
Light gold color. Aromas of baked apple and pear, some salted nuts and honeysuckle. Juicy and plump on the palate but moderate acidity freshens it up, and I get flavors of yellow apples, apricots and baked pear, with some cinnamon, nuts and honeysuckle thrown in. For a $15 generic California AVA Chard, this has a lot of personality. (86 points) 

2014 Gamling & McDuck Cabernet Franc Pickberry Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $36
Deep ruby color. Aromas of tar, violets and pepper on top of juicy black cherries, with some sweet clove, graphite and cherry wood thrown in. Medium-bodied, moderate tannic structure, fresh acidity, refreshingly balanced. Tart but so juicy with these black cherries and roasted plums, along with plenty of chewing tobacco, oregano, black pepper. Vibrant yet rich, structured but so easy to sip right out of the bottle. Delish! (90 points) 

2013 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Pinot Noir Light Horse - California
SRP: $15
Medium ruby color. Aromas of juicy cherries and raspberries, sweet roses, cola and rhubarb. Soft tannins meet fresh acid on the palate with simple but pleasant cherries and strawberries, juicy appeal yet fresh. Notes of cola and rhubarb. Lacks that sweet baked fruit and fake character of a lot of generic California AVA Pinot Noirs, which is a good thing. Toss the Meomi, I’ll take a glass of this. (85 points) 

2014 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Malbec Whiplash - California
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Aromas of sweet cherries, plum cake, cola, coffee, vanilla. On the palate, light tannins combine with medium acid and soft, juicy blueberry and candied cherry. Sweet and office party-friendly, but lacks personality and depth. (79 points) 

2015 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Whiplash Red - California
SRP: $15
Juicy purple color. Aromas of jammy raspberries, cherries, sweet cola, vanilla and Swedish fish candy. Full-bodied, soft tannins, medium acidity, this is a jammy, simple wine with flavors of candied black and red fruit, Fig Newton cookies, cola and sweet coffee. (81 points)

2014 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Double Lariat - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Rich purple color. Smells dark and juicy with black cherries and plums, vanilla coffee, charcoal and dark chocolate. Full-bodied with velvety and approachable tannins, medium acidity. Juicy dark fruit (blackberry and black cherries), shows some tanginess, and the fruit is backed up by sweet coffee, vanilla, and some earthy charcoal notes. Plush and smooth yet shows some liveliness, and could likely improve for a few years. (87 points)

2013 Cardinale - California, Napa Valley

Credit: Cardinale.

SRP: $250
Gorgeous purple color. Intoxicating and deep aromas of rich black cherries and currants, sweet pipe tobacco, eucalyptus, violets, loamy soil – so much to unpack. The palate is full and structured marvelously but there’s freshness despite the density. The black currant and cherry fruit is pure, complex and delicious, smooth but maintains a tart edge. Crazy complex elements of cedar, tobacco, vanilla, crushed rocks, hot clay, loamy soil, menthol, cigar lounge and leather jacket. Wow. Cardinale is a stunner as always, but in 2013 they really killed it. This is fantastic, and has so much to show over the next five-to-ten years. 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot aged 19 months in all new French oak. (96 points)

2015 Chronic Cellars Sofa King Bueno - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Aromas of jammy rasberries, black cherries, red hot candies, sweet vanilla coffee and black pepper glaze. Full-bodied and chewy with easy-drinking tannins and medium/low acidity. The black cherries and raspberries and candied and jammy and topped with cola, coffee, pepper glaze. Simple, forward, fun if you like this style. A blend of 52% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 13% Petite Sirah, 7% Mourvedre. (85 points)

2015 Chronic Cellars Dead Nuts - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $24
Light purple color. On the nose: raspberries, juicy plums, smoke, cola, violets and chocolate. Full but smooth and velvety on the palate with medium/low acid and soft tannins. Candied cherries and raspberry jam mix with vanilla cola, pie filling and a note of sweet tobacco and earth. A bit sweet but tasty and probably a good office party kind of wine. 81% Zinfandel, 13% Tempranillp 6% Petite Sirah. (85 points) 

2015 Chronic Cellars Purple Paradise - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $15
Light purple. Smells like raspberry and strawberry jam, some peppery spice, sweet coffee and red licorice candy. Chewy texture on the palate, soft tannins, low acidity. “Purple” is right! I get jammy fruits and laffy taffy with coffee and some spicy, earthy notes underneath. Simple, sweet, fun. (85 points)

2015 Chronic Cellars Petite Sirah Suite Petite - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Aromas of sweet blackberries and plums, along with coffee, vanilla and chocolate shavings. Medium-bodied and juicy but shows hints of freshness. Dark and saucy black cherry and currant fruit, but shows some vibrancy, and I get notes of sweet clove, pepper, coffee grounds, earth. Unserious but seriously delicious. Less candied than the others in the lineup. Includes 15% Syrah. (86 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Nerdy & Delicious Loire Wines from Domaine de la Roche Bleue & Christophe Foucher

If I’m looking for fascinating, intriguing and delicious wines in the $20 range (which is always the case), I look to the Loire Valley of France. 

Many of these offerings are “natural” wines in the sense that the winemakers use organic viticulture and take a minimalist approach in the winery (old oak, native yeasts, no additional sulfur, some wines are corked by hand). They’re not “natural” wines in the sense that they’re faulted, off-kilter or shittily-made (per a Robert Parker-style critique). 

They’re pure expressions of fascinating grapes planted in unique soils and produced with minimalist intervention in the cellar. If you’re tired of in-your-face oak and alcohol, and looking for wines that express their terroir like poetry, there are so many options to explore in the Loire Valley. These three wines, and these two producers, are just some of many. And, taken together, these are three of the best $20 bottles I’ve purchased all year. 
 

Christophe Foucher organically farms the quirky Menu Pineau grape in the village of Touraine, ferments his wines in old oak and doesn’t add any sulfur. Sebastien Cornille is the winemaker at Domaine de la Roche Bleue, and he makes some fascinating whites, reds and a sparkling rose that are guaranteed to get your palate and intellect going. Two out of the three are labeled as Vin de France because, despite coming from sites in Loire Valley appellations, they don’t adhere to appellation rules regarding permitted grapes. But they express their Loire terroir with finesse.

Below are my notes on three exciting Loire wines I tasted recently.   

2014 La Lunotte (Cristophe Foucher) Le Haut Plessis - France, Vin de France
$15
Light gold color, a bit cloudy but no worries. Unique nose of preserved lemon and quince, potpourri, nettle and briny ocean jetty. Medium-light-bodied with racy acidity. Bitter lemon meets quince and melon rind, and the fruit is laced with minerals and complex spicy/herbal notes. Precise and clean but also exotic and flashy. Tingling, mineral-heavy finish, this would verge on the austere if it wasn't so damned delicious. A very interesting wine made from a grape called Menu Pineau, which is sourced from vineyards in Coufy, near the estate of Clos Roche Blanche. (90 points)

2014 Domaine de la Roche Bleue Jasnières Sec - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières $20
Light gold color. The nose is brisk and salty with seashells and white flowers on top of limes and lemon meringue. The palate is so bright and zesty but it’s not lean, showing juicy and creamy aspects. Gorgeous lime, lemon and apricot fruit topped in complex mineral, chalk, seashell, white tea and honeycomb elements. Long and nervy but so delicious. Such a great Chenin Blanc for $20. Comes from 10-25-year-old vines planted in clay/silex soil on limestone. That’s it — anything from this producer, I’m buying on the spot. (90 points)

2015 Domaine de la Roche Bleue Vin de France La Petillante - France, Vin de France
$18
What a cool wine. A rose pet nat made from 100% Pinot d’Aunis grown near Jasnieres (but a Vin de France appellation). A pale rose color in the glass with light froth. Salty and spicy on the nose with some apple peel and white cherries. It's tart and bracing on the palate and insanely refreshing. Ripe strawberries mix with tart white cherries, and I get loads of minerals, chalk, seashells, some nettle and white pepper. Not too weird, but definitely exciting and nerdy. This wine is so refreshing and delicious that it almost feels hydrating to drink. Love it. (90 points)

These wines were imported by Fruit of the Vine and I purchased them from Chambers Street in NY, NY.

South African Wines are Gaining Ground by Offering Quality & Value

If you’ve spent any time talking with me about wine and travel, you have probably heard me rant about my love for South Africa. It’s an ethereal place. The coastline of the Cape Peninsula is obscenely gorgeous, the surfing is top-notch, and the wildlife in the country’s interior grassland preserves is stunning. My trip to South Africa was the most exciting of my life.

Then there are the wines, a plethora of options that are delicious, intriguing and often inexpensive. From adventurous but value-driven white wines to $20 Pinot Noirs that slay to exceptional, age-worthy Bordeaux blends — there is no shortage of exciting regions, producers and varieties to explore.

Muratie Estate in Stellenbosch is one of many impressive wineries with even more impressive views. Photo: IJB

Despite hundreds of years’ worth of winemaking history, South African vintners have endured a steep learning curve in the post-Apartheid era. As trade restrictions lifted, exports of inexpensive bulk wine poured out into the rest of the world. For most of the 90s and well into the 2000s, South African wines developed a reputation as being decent and cheap. For the average American consumer, many of the bottles they saw were South African riffs on the critter label wines that Americans had grown accustomed to chugging.

But this is 2016, folks. South Africa is firmly established as a source of some of the world’s most dynamic wines. In the past 10 years, I’ve seen a dramatic increase in quality as winemakers seek out old vines, experiment with interesting blends, and aim to translate their unique terroir into the glass. The viticulture and oenology program at the Stellenbosch University has produced an impressive group of alumni. And South African winemaking has transitioned from catch-up mode to the cutting edge of research and modernity.

And consumers are responding. Nielsen data recently found Americans bought 14% more South African wine in the last year. And they’re also willing to pony up for the higher-end wines — the Nielsen data shows the market value of South African wine sales increased 25% during the same timeframe.

Recently, I met with Jim Clarke, the U.S. marketing manager for Wines of South Africa (WOSA), the national trade group that promotes South African wine to the world. The guy has my dream job, traveling back and forth between South Africa and American markets, conducting tastings, educational seminars and otherwise promoting the best that South African wine has to offer. I caught up with him during a Society of Wine Educators conference in Washington, DC, to chat about South African vino. Like me, he’s excited to see more high-quality South African wines making it across the Atlantic to shelves here in the States.

If you’re new to South African wines, or planning to explore further, I’ve outlined four wine categories that I think deserve attention.

Chenin gets its due

Chenin Blanc has be the historical backbone of the South African wine industry. Most of these wines (which were historically referred to as “Steen”) were sourced from grapes grown in high-volume vineyards and produced as bulk wines.

But because of the grape’s important place in the history of South African wine culture, there are tons of old vines scattered throughout the Western and Southern Cape regions. There is more old-vine Chenin Blanc than any other variety in South Africa, some 2,500 acres of Chenin older than 35 years in the Western Cape. And this vine is resistant to leaf roll virus, which has affected many South African vineyards and caused many vineyard owners to pull out and replant.

From a new consumer’s standpoint, it’s difficult to peg “South African Chenin Blanc” as a cohesive category. Chenin in South Africa is produced in seemingly every style imaginable — we have Champagne-method Brut, zesty and mineral-dominated wines, creamier oak-aged styles, and unctuous dessert wines. So, if Joe & Joanne McWineConsumer pick up a random bottle of South African Chenin Blanc off a retailer’s shelf, what will they get? It’s hard to know. Although some producers stick to certain styles, and I’m seeing more and more labels that provide actual information about the wine. (From “Unoaked” to “Dry” on the front label or descriptions of style and production on the back label.) But I think the key to grasping South African Chenin’s potential is to recognize that diversity, and to celebrate it.

Chenin from its motherland (France’s Loire Valley) has a fiercely dedicated following for this same reason. Loire Chenin fans are enamored with its range of styles, because each style, appellation and terroir offers a unique interpretation of this expressive grape. The same thing is happening in South Africa.

With so much old-vine Chenin available, and many years of time spent focusing on making world class wines from these vineyards, I think South African winemakers have good reason to feel positive about the future of their Chenin Blancs. Now, if we can just get more of these high-quality Chenins to markets around the U.S., I think Americans are ready to dive in.

Sauvignon Blanc deserves love, too

During my trip to South Africa, I tasted a ton of wine. One of the biggest surprises was the amount of highly delicious (and inexpensive) Sauvignon Blanc. This grape doesn’t get the amount of wine nerd credit as Chenin Blanc, but there are lots of South African producers who are taking Sauv Blanc seriously and making compelling wines.

Southern Right (part of the Hamilton Russell family of wines) makes a killer Sauv Blanc from Walker Bay (near the Southern Coast area of Hermanus) that retails in the U.S. for less than $15. Under their Ashbourne label, they release a Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay blend that is sometimes aged underneath the waves of the nearby ocean. This Sandstone blend is fabulous, and as a recent tasting proved, it can age very well. Further west, in the Western Cape region of Constantia, I found a bunch of tangy, mineral-driven, zesty Sauvignon Blancs. This cooler region (located on the Cape’s thumb-like peninsula between the Atlantic Ocean and False Bay) boasts more Sauv Blanc than any other grape variety.

Groot Constantia is South Africa's oldest wine estate (dating back to the 1600s), and they produce a fine Constantia Sauv Blanc. Photo: IJB

There is a ton of variety in terms of style and region, of course, but overall, I find South African Sauv Blancs show a nice mix of tropical and citrus fruits on a frame of fresh acidity. They’re a bit brighter than a lot of wines from California, a bit more tropical than those from the Loire Valley, and they usually stay away from those pungent cut grass and bell pepper aromas and flavors frequently found in some wines from New Zealand. And the bang-for-you-buck equation generally favors the South African Sauv Blanc consumer.


African Bubbles Causing a Splash

Methode Cap Classique is South Africa’s designated sparkling wine. It’s made via the traditional Champagne method, and usually from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in cooler sub-regions, although Chenin bubbles can be quite delicious. The price to quality ratio of these wines blows a lot of California bubbles out of the water, especially in the usually dicey sub-$20 category.

These wines have seen serious growth in the U.S. market recently: imports are up more than 50% in from last year, according to South Africa Wine Industry Information & Systems. Nielsen data indicates that certain method cap classique labels have seen a five-fold increase in sales in the course of the last twelve months.

If you’re skeptical, check out Graham Beck’s bubbles, which are available in markets all over the United States. This producer crafts a wide range of MCC wines, but the entry-level Brut and Rose are absurdly good for the price. As you step up the quality ladder, the prices increase, but even the high-end South African bubblies outperform many similar wines from other New World regions.

Red blends – a South African specialty

The consumer focus on red blends has been fueled in large part by the overabundance of mass-produced, jammy, off-dry wines from California (think Apothic, Cupcake, etc.) But consumers also realize that the serious blended reds offer awesome juice.

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and other Rhone varieties grow wonderfully in Western Cape spots like Swartland. These grapes are traditionally blended together to make juicy, earthy, peppery wines that pair wonderfully with grilled foods. In Stellenbosch and other regions focused on Bordeaux varieties, some of the best wines I’ve tasted are blends of Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, etc. South Africa’s traditional stalwart red grape, Pinotage, also features in many a tasty blend, adding a peppery, earthy kick.

Higher elevation vineyards in the sub-regions of Stellenbosch offer ideal growing conditions for Bordeaux red varieties. (Credit: WOSA)

Diverse soils and vineyard sites mean a lot of different grapes can find a niche within a relatively close area. And sometimes the best way to translate a sense of place is to blend multiple grapes from specific plots to create complex, age-worthy reds. At the highest end, these Bordeaux blends can compete with some of the best from other New World regions.

Some Tasting Notes

Below are some tasting notes on some South African wines I’ve tasted recently. Each wine is noted as either a trade sample or a bottle from my personal collection.

N.V. Graham Beck Methode Cap Classique Brut - South Africa, Western Cape
$12 (personal collection)
Solid sparkler for $12, which isn't easy to pull off. Light gold color. Smells of lemon curd, lime, salty-toasted baguette. Crisp and bright on the nose with apples, lemons and lots of chalk. Light, not too complex but very crisp and quite tasty. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (86 points)

2015 Fat Barrel Sauvignon Blanc - South Africa, Stellenbosch
$12 (Sample)
Medium straw color. An aromatic burst of white peach, guava, lime and green melon, backed up by white pepper, hay and honeysuckle. A bright and tart wine but it has a vibrant mouthfeel with juicy white peach, papaya, lime and melon flavors — the fruit is pure and lively. I get notes of honeysuckle, white pepper, hay and green tea as well. Finishes quite long and crisp. (87 points)
 
2013 Reyneke Sauvignon Blanc - South Africa, Stellenbosch
$28 (sample) 
Pretty gold color. Vibrant, intense aromas with lots of depth: peach, papaya, apricot, the fruit is layered with honeyed tea, mint and ocean spray. Plump and fleshy texture but precise acidity. Creamy peach and apricot fruit blends well with white tea, almond, cut floral stems, perfume, lingering minerals. A somewhat rare New World Sauv Blanc that will improve with time in the cellar. Long, lingering, refreshing but complex. Worth the money for sure. A biodynamic wine from the dynamic Johan Reyneke. (90 points)

2008 Ashbourne Sandstone - South Africa, Walker Bay
$20 (Personal collection)
About two years since I brought this bottle back from a winery visit in South Africa, and I think it’s gotten even metter. Nose shows green onion, bell pepper, sea salt, crunched sea shells, notes of anise and clove, too, all on top of white cherries, peaches and limes. Creamy texture but bracing acidity. Laser-beam style stuff. Tart green apples, limes, tangy peach. Complex elements of cucumber water, white pepper, sea salt, minerals, chalk and talcum powder. Wow. This is beautiful stuff – aging so nicely. Not tired by any means, but I would be hesitant to cellar this for more than two more years. Such a cool wine. Sauv Blanc with 12% Chardonnay. (92 points)

2014 Longridge Chenin Blanc - South Africa, Stellenbosch
$18 (Sample)
Aromas: salty, white tea, chalk, nettle and honeysuckle on top of lemon and quince. On the palate: bright, clean and zesty but not lean, as this has a pleasant sense of creaminess to balance out the vibrant acidity. Crisp green apples and lemon curd flavors doused in chalk, minerals, honey, white tea and candle wax notes. Deeply mineral-driven. Pretty and elegant but sports solid depth. Great stuff for the price, and I’d love to see how this ages over the next three or four years. Great bargain. (90 points)

2015 Bellingham Chenin Blanc The Old Orchards - South Africa, Paarl
$? (Sample)
Light gold color. Very pretty aromatic display: orange marmalade, honey, white tea, hints of oyster shell and crushed rocks. Medium-plus-bodied, a velvety and creamy texture but the acidity keeps the lips smacking and the feel of the wine is still refreshing. Orange marmalade, juicy peach, apricot nectar, cinnamon-spiced apple, and that’s all topped with complex notes of almond, honeycomb and sea shells. A popping, punchy but complex Chenin that could develop for at least a few years. (89 points)

2014 Badenhorst Family Wines Chenin Blanc Secateurs - South Africa, Swartland
$16 (Personal collection)
Light gold color. Pretty aromas of white tea, nettle, chalk and sea salt on top of lemon pie and apples. Fresh acid, waxy texture, lots of chalk dust, minerals and mountain stream flavors. Pure and zesty but shows plenty of lemon, apricot and papaya fruit. Quite complex for the price, and a great introduction to the quality of South African Chenin Blanc you can find for less than $20. This fruit comes from old Chenin Blanc vines (most planted in the 1960s and farmed without irrigation). The grapes come from the family farm and some neighboring fruit planted in granite soils on the north side of Paardeberg mountain in Swartland. (89 points)

2014 Delaire Graff Botmaskop - South Africa, Stellenbosch
$28 (Sample)
Dark violet color. Smells smoky and full of charcoal, some grilled herbs and menthol, all of it tossed with rich currant, blackberry and roasted fig. Full-bodied with some good grip to the tannins but tart acidity refines this bold red. Black cherries, tart currants, the juicy fruit is laced with menthol, mint, grilled herbs, charcoal and subtle vanilla. Juicy and tangy but maintains some mystique and near-term cellar potential. Very good stuff for the price. Cabernet Sauvignon with 21% Merlot, 10% Malbec and 6% Cabernet Franc aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2013 Warwick Estate Three Cape Ladies - South Africa, Western Cape
$30(Sample) 
Juicy, deep ruby color. Smells of red and black cherries, juicy plums, and lots of smoke, charcoal, bacon fat and coffee. Fleshy and juicy on the palate but sports some solid tannins and medium acidity. Tart black currants meet pulpy cherries and red plums. I like the mix of smoke, tar, black olive, cola and charred meat. This blend works, as it shows lots of up-front Pinotage elements but I think the Shiraz and Cabernet flesh it out and keep the funky notes from dominating. Delicious now but will improve for two to four years easily. Aged 24 months in 22% new French oak. (88 points)