Wine reviews: Summertime specialties

 I hope you all are enjoying your unofficial start to summer. If you’re traveling far, best of luck! And if you’re sticking close to home, I hope you’re enjoying some great wine, food, and time with loved ones.

The summer vibes are kicking into gear and, as such, I have a handful of diverse wines that would fit well into a mixed case of summer wines. With the coming heat and humidity here in the Mid-Atlantic, I need some sparkling wines in the mix. And I have some delicious, interesting bubbles in this mix, too.

Australia hasn’t appeared for a while, so I want to highlight several summer-friendly wines from Bird in Hand. It had been several years since I tried wines from this South Australia producer, and I had forgotten how expressive and dynamic they were.

Reds are welcome as well, and needed for grill-outs, but I like to stick with juicy, less dense reds over the coming summer season. Rioja comes in great for these situations, and Beronia puts out classic Rioja goodness at very reasonable price points.

I recently attended a virtual tasting with winemaker Paul Warson, a man with a serious resume, spanning renown producers and regions from Los Angeles, Santa Ynez, to Napa. In addition to his own project, he makes wines for Moraga Estate, which is a unique place and project. Located in the Bel-Air hills, this small production winery follows the traditional Bordeaux estate lineup, making an estate red and white from Bordeaux varieties. Paul seems like a great fit: “It’s fantasy land here,” he said. “I consider myself incredibly fortunate.” Yes, if you’ve heard of this winery, you probably know it’s owned by Rupert Murdoch. News and politics aside, the wines are structured, very worthy of cellar time, and undeniably high-quality.

And some value-driven bubbles and white wines round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Sparkling

2022 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Sparkling – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $24
Deep salmon color. The nose sports a brisk, chalky appeal with floral perfume, dandelion, along with crunchy white cherries and red apples. The palate sports fine bubbles and a creamy depth that balances well with zesty acidity. The fruit tends toward crunchy red apples, wild raspberries, white cherries, which are mixed well with tones of saline, chalk dusty, white flowers, hints of rhubarb and white pepper. Some flinty minerals on the finish. Super fun, crushable, crowd-pleasing, but complex and nuances throughout. Cool stuff! (90 points IJB)

N.V. Graham Beck Brut Rosé – South Africa, Western Cape
SRP: $20
Lively salmon color. The aromas are bright and airy with flavors of raspberries, watermelon, tart strawberries, mixed with elements of yellow flowers, basil, fresh green herbs. The palate has a chalky feel on a light-bodied frame, generous bubbles, along with flavors of raspberries and watermelon. Nuances of honeysuckle, light biscuits, saline, a fun and refreshing appeal. Such a reliable producer of quality, widely-available Champagne-method bubbles with a lot of personality and value. 2/3 Pinot, 1/3 Chardonnay. (88 points IJB)

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Piquette – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich watermelon color. A spritely, chalky, crunchy aromatic display of raspberries and crunchy red apples, with spicy, herbal goodness. The palate is taut and brisk, light-bodied, with flavors of cranberry relish and red apples. Nice kicks of spiced black tea, white pepper, floral perfume, really fun and crushable, in the best way. This new take on ancient farmer fizz is full of summertime goodness. A blend of Mourvèdre, vermentino, Cinsault, Tannat, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Négrette. (88 points IJB)

White and Rosé

2022 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Verdejo Rueda – Spain, Castilla y León, Rueda
SRP: $17
Pale lemon color. The palate is fresh and bright with limes, green apples, and a steely, perfumed, ocean spray vibe. The palate is racy and infused with salty, brisk goodness, light but not lacking in flavor, with crunchy green apples and pears, lime zest. Notes of fennel and basil add a lovely fresh, mildly spicy kick. A crisp and punchy appeal, and seems perfectly situated to a sun-roasted patio with a fresh tray of oysters overlooking an ocean, as it reminds me of just that. A delicious, value-driven, easy half-case buy for summertime, salads, and seafood. (90 points IJB)

2022 Bird in Hand Sauvignon Blanc – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $20
Pale straw color. The aromas pop with a mix of pineapple, juicy mango, honeydew melon, drizzled with lime, topped in white flowers, oregano, perfume, freshly sliced cucumbers – a lot to enjoy on the nose. Medium-bodied, pleasant mouthfeel, crisp acidity, and the fruit comes in the form of kiwi, pineapple, orange peel, love the balance, creaminess. The nuances of sliced green onion, honeysuckle, dandelion, and daisies add a lot to like, and there’s this vibrant, stony, mountain stream vibe that lingers on the finish. I was really surprised by the balance and focus in this Sauv Blanc. (91 points IJB)

2012 Moraga Vineyards Estate Bel-Air White – USA, California, South Coast, Los Angeles County
Library Release
An 11-year-old Sauv Blanc from Bel Air, California? Yep, and it is really impressive. Pretty light yellow color. The nose is so bright and vibrant, with fresh salty air, seashells, white and yellow flowers, over a bed of pure lemon and yellow pear fruit. Deep but airy, with floral meadow vibes. The palate shows a creamy, waxy texture with acidity that cuts deep through and provides refreshment. Pineapple and lemon curd fruit mixes with rich tones of honey and nougat, hints of vanilla and almond cake. Contrast that with nuances of seashells, chalk dust, and talc. Deep but vibrant, this could still age a long time. I’d love to throw this into a blind tasting with some white Bordeaux and see heads spin when it is unveiled. Impressive, age-worthy, delicious stuff. All Sauv Blanc, with 30% new French oak fermentation, then in stainless steel. (93 points IJB)

2022 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Rosé – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $20
Bright watermelon color. So bright and inviting on the nose with fresh red apples, pretty strawberries, and cantaloupe, with a bright, spicy, floral appeal of celery seed, mint, chalk dust, floral meadows. The palate is zesty and tangy but there’s a pretty, honeyed texture and mouthfeel. Watermelon, McIntosh apple, strawberry rhubarb pie, these flavors are delicious and accentuated by effusive chalk, flint, minerals, and notes of white flowers and white pepper. Love the depth, precision, and balance here. (90+ points IJB)

2022 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Rosado – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $13
Light salmon color. Spritely aromas of red delicious apple, wild raspberries, with white pepper, yellow flowers, hints of sea salt and freshly cut grass. There’s a nice creaminess to accentuate the vibrant acidity on the palate, with flavors of orange peel, red apple slices, wild raspberries. There’s a nice mix of spicy and floral tones interwoven with notes of talc and minerals. For a pink at this price point, there’s a lot to love here – balanced, crowd-pleasing stuff. 50/50 Garnacha and Tempranillo. (87 points IJB)

Red

2019 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Crianza – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: 15
Deep ruby color. Aromas show fresh red cherries and wild raspberries, along with enticing notes of tobacco, sage, fallen leaves, leather, smoky earth. Medium-bodied, fresh acidity, zesty even, with smooth tannins and a crushable but complex feel. The black cherries, juicy raspberries, strawberry jam fruit mix well with nuances of leather, tar, dried roses and violets, tobacco, roasted red pepper. A lot of fun, but shows balance and complexity, too. (87 points IJB)

2018 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $25
Bright light purple color. The nose shows mulled cherries, juicy raspberries, plum sauce, tossed with savory spices, tobacco leaf, notes of library dust and clay. The palate has soft tannins and moderate acidity, supporting cherry and mulled raspberry fruit. Notes of tar, tobacco, spiced tea, cracked black pepper, they add complexity and grilled food-friendly vibes. Fun and smooth but nice balance and complexity with a pleasantly smoky finish. Drinking great now. (89 points IJB)

2015 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva – Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $30
Deep ruby color. A delightfully dark and warm aromatic display of red and black currants, laced with graphite, smoky earth, mesquite, tobacco, grilled meats, notes of mineral and vanilla bean. The palate is rich and saucy but really fresh and inviting, with fine-grained tannins and lively acidity. The dark currant and plum fruit is tangy and complex, and mixed with notes of loamy earth, stony minerals, tobacco, anise, nuances of oak and graphite. The deep compote of fruit blends so well with these savory tones, and this has a long life ahead as well. (91 points IJB)

2017 Moraga Vineyards Estate Bel-Air Red – USA, California, South Coast, Los Angeles County
SRP: $140
Deep purple color. Wow, the nose is beautiful, with deep currant, plum back, black cherry cola, laced with smoky earth, savory spice, dried violets, tilled soil, nuanced oak and vanilla. The palate shows nice grip and structure with round-edged tannins and lively acidity. Tangy currant and rich plum fruit, smooth, deep, vibrant, and it’s tossed together well with black pepper, anise, coffee grounds, campfire, pencil lead, tar. Showing wonderfully now but this will age for a long time. No lie, this is legit Cab. All Cab, all new French oak. (92 points IJB)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Vibrant Victoria, Australia Wines from Fowles

We’re off to Victoria, Australia this week, with a look at a range of wines from Fowles.

Fowles is located in one of Australia’s coolest winegrowing regions, the Strathbogie Ranges in Victoria. Located about 80 miles north of Melbourne, this area is home to decomposed granite soils, low rainfall, and plenty of wind, which combine to form fresh wines with vibrant acidity.

Founder Matt Fowles is an avid hunter and gatherer, which is evident in the winery’s branding aesthetic. Fowles releases three lines of wines: Are you Game?, brighter and fresher-styled wines; Ladies who Shoot their Lunch, which Matt Fowles says are designed to be paired with wild game; and Farm to Table, richer wines to pair with farmed meats.

The Farm to Table brand wines can be found in the U.S. market for about $16 a pop, while the Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch wines should cost about $35 per bottle.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Fowles Wine Sauvignon Blanc Farm to Table - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes

Light gold color. Bursting aromatics of white peach, kiwi, orange slices, with honeysuckle and fresh laundry notes. On the palate, creamy but zesty, white peaches, limes and green apples blend well with honeysuckle, floral perfume, and sliced cucumbers. Flora, punchy, but fresh and tasty. (86 points)

2015 Fowles Wine Cabernet Sauvignon Farm to Table - Australia, Victoria, Strathbogie Ranges

Lively purple color. Nose of blueberry, juicy black cherries, violets, sweet coffee, menthol and cedar. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Dark plums, boysenberry, blueberry jam, mixed with sweet coffee, dark chocolate, cedar, menthol and black tea. Juicy and plump but not simple, this could stand up to lots of hearty foods. (87 points)

2016 Fowles Wine Pinot Noir Farm to Table - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes

Ruby color. Aromas of rhubarb, rose petal, white pepper, on top of cool, crisp, chilled red fruits (strawberry, raspberry). On the palate, some light structure from the tannins but this shows a chilled, crisp vibe, with red cherries, tart red plums. I get notes of cola, rhubarb, menthol, some integrated cedar. Wow, color me impressed with this Victorian Pinot Noir. (90 points)

2016 Fowles Wine Riesling Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch - Australia, Victoria, Strathbogie Ranges

Light yellow color. Aromas of white peaches, lime juice, yellow flowers, chalk dust and quinine. On the palate, mouth-watering acidity, a salty, nervy aesthetic on this wine (which tastes dry or very near it). Lemon, lime, apricot, laced with chalky-mineral tones and spicy floral tea flavors. This would be so great with sushi or spicy seafood or veggie meals. (89 points)

2016 Fowles Wine Chardonnay Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Wild Ferment - Australia, Victoria, Strathbogie Ranges

Light gold color. Aromas of lemon curd, yellow apple, buttercream, sea salt, floral perfume. Medium+ bodied, plenty of refreshing acidity but also plush texture. Flavors of lemon crème and lime, yellow apples, mixed with almond, honeyed tea, buttercream, but also some sea salt and white flowers. Integrated and vibrant, immediately pleasurable but shows significant complexity. (88 points)

2015 Fowles Wine Shiraz Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch - Australia, Victoria, Strathbogie Ranges

Deep ruby color. Aromas of fresh black cherries, wild blackberry, notes of earth, loam and clay, with some black pepper and cedar. Medium-bodied, vibrant, lively acidity, moderate grip on the tannins. Flavors of plums, black cherry, along with cola, eucalyptus, pepper and cedar. Not “light” but more freshness and vibrancy that the term “Australian Shiraz” generally connotes. (89 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Fresh, Fascinating Wines from Australia's Bird in Hand

Credit: Bird in Hand. Adelaide Hills, Australia. 

We’re off to the Australia for this week, focusing on Bird in Hand wines. Hailing from the Adelaide Hills appellation, where their vineyards receive cooling influences from the Gulf of St. Vincent and the nearby Mount Lofty Range mountains, the wines are packed with fresh acidity in addition to gorgeous fruit. 

Founded in 1997 on what used to be a dairy farm, Bird in Hand wines are definitely worth checking out if you’ve long ago soured on heavy, low-acid, candied Australian wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Sparkling - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $25
A very pale copper color. Brisk and floral on the nose with white cherries, wild strawberries, red apple peel, baby’s breath, some sea salt. A vibrant and lip-smacking wine with vibrant tingly bubbles, but a whole lot of fruit: strawberry, juicy McIntosh apple, apricot and wild raspberries. Juicy but so vibrant, almost dry, with a complex mix of baby’s breath, lilies, sea salt, oyster shell, chalky mineral tones. An, intriguing and delicious Pinot Noir sparkler. (90 points)

2016 Bird in Hand Two in the Bush - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $16
Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, lime, kumquat, drizzled with seawater, chalk dust and spicy tomato leaf. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity and pure green apple and lime fruit mixed with some richer papaya and guava nectar. There’s a great combination of sea salt, chalk dust and minerals that pervade the wine, and I get complex elements of floral perfume and spiced tea. Complex and gorgeous but you’ll also want a second glass because it’s so damn fresh and fun to sip. A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Serious wine at a not-so-serious price. (90 points)

2015 Bird in Hand Chardonnay - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $25
Light gold color. Smells of limes, tangerines, white peaches with some almond, sea breeze and white floral tea notes. On the palate this shows precise acidity and plump texture on a medium-bodied frame. Lime drizzled on tangerines, peaches and yellow pears, the fruit is mixes with honey, almond, chamomile tea and chalk dusty. Fresh, vibrant, rich flavors of very nice balance. Indigenous yeast fermented and aged in 20% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Bird in Hand Chardonnay Nest Egg - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $65
Light gold color. Aromas of kiwi, lime, apricot and bruised yellow apple, along with a combination of salty/chalk notes with richer buttered toast and nougat. On the palate this has a plush, lees-stirred kind of texture but precise acidity, which keeps it fresh and together. Lime, papaya, apricot, it mixes well with sea salt, lemon verbena and some almond and buttery notes. Delicious yet complex, rich yet vibrant. French oak fermentation, lees stirring, maloactic fermentation, so it’s a bold style, but it’s balanced well with vibrant acidity and delicious fruit and non-fruit complexity. (92 points)

2015 Bird in Hand Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $30
Dark purple color. Smells like tart black cherries, gushing blueberries, black olives, charred earth and cracked black pepper. Full-bodied (14.5%), this is fleshy and dark with moderate tannic grip, no rough edges, and surprisingly fresh acidity. Plum, black cherries and boysenberry, juicy and dark with smoky tar, black pepper, black olive, charcoal. Vanilla and coffee are woven in well. Bold but elegant and wonderfully well-balanced, solid now but will improve for at least a few years. Aged 16 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2013 Bird in Hand Shiraz Nest Egg - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $85
Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose of currants, tart blueberries, blackberry jam, but not just fruit – lots of complex elements of graphite, anise, charcoal, black pepper, vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but rounded tannins and surprisingly vibrant acidity, which is one of my favorite aspects of this wine. Tart black cherry, blueberry and black currant mix well with anise, charcoal, violets, scorched earth and black pepper. Such freshness to balance out the bold fruit, and this has a lot of complex non-fruit elements going for it. Wow. Aged 18 months in French oak, this will improve for at least five or seven years. (93 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Down, Down Under: Tasmanian Pinot Noir

The east coast of Tasmania, a far-off haven for pinot noir.

Shiraz isn’t the only premium wine coming out of Australia. Regions like Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Coonwarra may have put Australia on the wine map, but remember that Australia is a huge place, full of incredibly diverse soils and climates capable of producing more than just blueberry jam-flavored red wine.

Today I want to focus on a producer from Tasmania, that lonely island off the continent’s southern coast. The winemakers at Spring Vale have been growing grapes in the unique climate of Tasmania’s Freycinet Coast for almost 25 years. Located on the east coast of the island, this is the driest part of Tasmania, and the vines require drip irrigation to flourish. The Freycinet Coast also gets quite cold, and the Spring Vale crew uses overhead sprinkler systems to fight frost and a wind machine to blow cold air away from the vines when the temperature drops. Spring Vale planted its first vines (two acres of pinot noir) in 1986. In 1996 they planted more pinot noir as well as three different white grape varieties: chardonnay, gewürztraminer and pinot gris.

Spring Vale pays homage to classic French grapes but it is a distinctly Australian endeavor. Their cellar is a stable that was built in 1842 by convict labor. The cellar door is open to the public seven days a week, from 11-4, but closed on Boxing Day. And winemaker Dave Cush loves to use the word “reckon.”

Spring Vale takes pride not only in their wines but in the Freycinet Coast as a serious wine region. They strive to “promote the Freycinet Coast and Tasmania as food and wine destinations” and to “promote the Freycinet Coast and Tasmania as super-premium Pinot Noir regions.” My experience with pinot noir from Tasmania is rather limited, but I think Spring Vale is on to something. And other producers like Pirie and Freycinet Vineyard have tempted my palate to explore more Tasmanian pinot.

This week I had the pleasure of drinking a 2005 Spring Vale Vineyards Pinot Noir. Aromatically, this wine was a bit reticent at first, but it opened up over the course of the evening to show sour cherries, chewing tobacco and an aroma that reminds me of tree bark. On the palate this pinot has a creamy body, fine tannins and tangy acid. Sour cherry and red plum fruit dominate, with secondary flavors of rhubarb, rose petals and a hint of tobacco. The approach is elegant and refined. It has the structure of a well-aged village-level Burgundy, but it lacks some of the earthier characteristics of Burgundy. Flavors of tangy cranberries and pickling spices linger on the finish. This pinot has aged well, but it may be entering it’s twilight. I'd like to try it again in five years and be proved wrong, though. I rated this wine a conservative 88 points.

After drinking Spring Vale’s 2005 pinot noir I realized the winemakers put up a YouTube video on this very wine. It’s fun hearing them discuss the 2005 vintage in “Tazzie” and how their pinot can age. “I hope you learn something drinking the wine,” says the winemaker. Well, I sure did: I need to track down more Tazzie pinot.

A Night of Mostly Australian Wine

On Friday night I got together with some old-school wine buddies and we popped some bottles. My friend J and I had some Australian wines we wanted to open, and some wines from other regions inevitably got thrown in as well. I'm by no means a big collector of Australian wines, but I do like to poke around and fine unique wines. There actually is a lot of diversity, and I enjoy exploring them. Some of these wines shed more light on an issue I've been curious about for a long time: the ageability of Australian wines.

2010 Domanine Bonnet-Huteau Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Les Laures - France, Loire Valley, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
I just love this vintage and this producer. This particular bottling spends extended time on the less, a year, giving it an aroma of buttercream. There's also this lovely mineral and lemon aroma. The palate is pure, bright and full of intense minerals. The focus is superb. The nervy edge of the acid and minerals combines with the creaminess from the sur lie aging to provide a full experience. The finish shows a lot of acid, leaving you salivating. Absolutely delicious, and I'd love to drink this with scallops. (90 pts.)

2008 O'Leary Walker Riesling - Australia, South Australia, Polish Hill River
I really enjoyed this riesling. It starts off with a real smoke and peanut aroma, but that fades away and white peach and minerals take its place. The palate has just a bit of a spritz, with tangy acid, but it's also quite full of peach and slate flavors. I was impressed by the minerality, which borders on austere. I really think this wine needs another few years in the bottle to show its stuff. There was a bit of honey that came out on the finish, but other than that it was a leaner, more mineral-driven riesling. On the second day it seemed even more focused and steely. (89 pts.)

2011 Château des Baumelles Bandol Rosé - France, Provence, Bandol
I really liked the 2010 of this, and the 2011 is very good as well, albeit a bit riper. Pink copper colored. Fresh aromas of grapefruit, melon rind and lemon zest. Tangy acid blends with ripe cherry and strawberry fruit. Fresh grapefruit on the finish. The added ripeness of the 2011 vintage hasn't taken much away from the acid and focus. (88 pts.)

2009 Juan Manuel Burgos Avan Ribera del Duero "Nacimiento" - Spain, Ribera del Duero
Hedonistic nose of currant jam, toast and fig paste. The palate is jammy and toasty, but somehow still balanced. Lots of creamy fruit and lush tannins. It's definitely a Ribera del Duero, but it seems to have more complexity and sexiness, as opposed to overbearing fruit and oak. This is such a great value at about $20, and I'm glad Peter Weygandt brought this wine in, because it will surely be a popular one. (89 pts.)

2008 Becker Estate Pinot Noir - Germany, Pfalz
This was one of two blind-tasted wine of the evening. Light cherry color in the glass. The aromas are brisk and fresh, full of cranberry and rhubarb, also some beef broth. The palate shows fresh acid, mixed in with a flavor that reminds me of tart cranberries. There's a lot of spice and bite (white pepper, rhubarb, green pepper) to this wine, which I like. I was happy to see it was a German pinot, because my experience with German pinots hasn't been that great. Very pleasant stuff. I thought this was a 2004 Burgundy, or possibly a more Old World styled Oregon pinot. Forty-eight hours later it smoothed out a lot and showed a bit more of a balance between fruit and non-fruit flavors. It became elegant and more expressive, leading me to think this is several years from its peak. (87 pts.)

2005 Giant Steps Pinot Noir Sexton Vineyard - Australia, Victoria, Yarra Valley
Second blind-tasted wine of the night. Light red color with a bit of tawny as well. This wine looks fifteen years old, and I was surprised to learn it was only seven. Pickles and sweet cherries on the nose, but it changed with hours open and showed more savory aromas. Tangy acid on the palate, fresh fruit as well, but there are still some tannins. Flavors of pickles, stewed cherries and red plums, along with a hint of cola. It's really interesting, quite complex, and very balanced at 13.4% alcohol. I liked the creamy feel of this wine more than the other pinot noir in the tasting. I tried it again 48 hours later and it was starting to show lots more savory beef broth aromas along with sweet red cherry. On day three, the tannins smoothed out and the wine became much silkier. (90 pts.)

1998 Virgin Hills - Australia, Victoria, Macedon Ranges
This Bordeaux blend was really interesting in a lot of ways, but ultimately not very good. Cloudy ruby color in the glass. What a bizzare and complex nose: dead ringer for Ukrainian borscht, as well as mustard seed and garlic. I kept waiting and searching for the fruit, but it remained elusive. The palate shows soft tannins and medium acid. It has a silky mouthfeel, but the weird flavors take over: garlic salt, chewing tobacco, charcoal and - finally! - a hint of cranberry fruit. This is a seriously nerdy wine. Drinking it was a fun academic experience, but this is not the kind of wine you'd drink two glasses of. I scored it 80 points because it reminds me of the borscht I always ate in Kyiv, but most people would despise this wine. (80 pts.)

2001 Majella Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Coonawarra
Bold purple color in the glass. Dense and mysterious nose at first, but it opened up to show lots of red plums and cherries. The palate has firm tannins, dense fruit and a real sense of purity. This was the most "Australian" of the group, showing those plummy, cocoa-powder and smoky oak aspects. It's really held together well though, and age has started to bring out flavors of beef jerky and charcoal, which linger on the finish. (90 pts.)

2004 Hentley Farm Shiraz "The Beauty" - Australia, South Australia, Barossa Valley
Very dark purple color in the glass. Aromas of faulty, moldy, old cork. On the palate, the wine is corked beyond all recognition. Damn, I was expecting big things from this wine. I've seen other reviews of this specific bottle being corked, and that's really concerning. Maybe the winery needs a new cork provider. Boo! (FLAWED)

2009 Domaine Daniel et Denis Alary Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne "La Brunote" - France, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne
Dark purple colored. Brooding nose of smoky black fruit. Bold, gritty tannins on the palate with fresh black fruit. I really like this now but its quite compact and I'm sure it will improve for another few years. (89 pts.)