Wine Reviews: Rhone Syrah Shines

Syrah (and specifically Syrah from France’s Northern Rhone Valley) gets a lot of credit for my love of wine. As a young wine-drinker would couldn’t afford a lot of wines from Hermitage or Cote-Rotie, I found what I was looking for in wines from appellations like Crozes-Hermitage and St. Joseph — juicy Syrah fruit, solid tannins, lively acidity, and hefty doses of meaty, pepper, earthy, savory goodness.

Over the years, I haven’t strayed far from my love of Northern Rhone Syrah. The New World Syrahs that I’ve fallen in love with (California, Washington, South Africa, for example) tend to be ones that I might considering sneaking into a blind-tasting of Northern Rhone wines as ringers. But nothing beats the real Rhone Syrah, so I was excited to taste through a few samples recently, most of which are from the 2017 vintage.

After the heralded 2016 vintage, 2017 had some tough elements. Frost and some hail threw off St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage a bit. A warm, dry summer led to smaller, more concentrated berries with thicker skins, and Syrah harvest started and ended quite early. While yields were lower, the quality of the fruit seems quite high.

I found these wines showed lots of juiciness, darker fruit, and the tannins, while providing structure, seem to have rounder edges. I’m an acid hound, but while this isn’t a zingy vintage, I found enough balance and freshness from the acidity in these wines. Overall, these Rhone wines make me crave a snowstorm, some grilled lamb, and lots of roasted root vegetables.

Three of these wines are all Syrah from the Northern Rhone, while the last is a Syrah-based blend from the Southern Rhone. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.

2017 Domaine Faury St. Joseph Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
SRP: $43
Light purple color. Lovely aromas of tangy black cherries and currants, topped in violets, clove, iron, bay leaf and cracked black pepper. Medium-bodied, silky but structured tannins, vibrant acidity – this is all lined up wonderfully. Red and black cherry fruit, suave but tangy, blended well with complex notes of black pepper, violets, bay leaf, iron, paved road. This is pure, vibrant, lively and expressive, but three to five years in the cellar will allow it to blossom (and it’ll age for a decade easily). Excellent St. Joseph for the price. From vines aged 43 to 82 years old, this Syrah is aged 12 months in foudres, demi-muids and barrels (10% of the barrels are new oak). (92 points)

2017 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. The nose exudes black fruit (cherries, blackberries) along with animal hide, grilled herbs, black olive brine and cracked pepper. Grippy tannins, tight but balanced with fresh acidity. The fruit is black and tart, and topped in leather, spicy grilled steak, black olive brine, and I get these underlying notes of iron and graphite. This is definitely one to age for at least four or five years, and it will evolve for a long time, but even at this young age, this is impressive. From 30-year-old vines, whole-cluster fermented in concrete and aged in old oak barrels. (91 points)

2018 Matthieu Barret Crozes-Hermitage Et la Bannière - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
SRP: $31
Deep, dark purple color. Juicy and ripe on the nose with gushing black cherries and blackberries. I get lots of mesquite, barbecue sauce, black pepper and soy, with lavender and cocoa dust elements, too. Medium/full-bodied with smooth tannins and medium acidity. This is a dark, juicy, fresh wine with lots of chewy black fruit, but there’s also plenty of pepper, anise, cocoa, dusty earth and charcoal elements. Delicious, fun, but also complex and interesting. From 20-year-old vines, the Syrah undergoes 10 days of carboic maceration, and this is fermented and aged in stainless steel. This is a more accessible, early-drinking style, but it could also age for a few years. (90 points)

2017 Château de Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône Les Deux Albion - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $21
Medium purple color. Pretty aromas of black currants, along with graphite, leather, cocoa powder, menthol and mesquite. This is a big, big wine (15.5% alcohol) but it holds it well, with velvety tannins, chewy texture, medium/low acid. Waves of ripe, delicious, jammy fruit (currants, roasted figs, blackberry), with elements of campfire, scorched earth, black pepper glaze, vanilla, coffee grounds. This is a bold, winter-friendly wine, but it shows nuance and complexity as well, especially considering the price. It could definitely use two or three years, though. 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 15% Carignan, 10% Mourvedre, and 5% Clairette, whole-cluster, co-fermented in wooden vats and concrete tanks, and aged 18 months. (89 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Grenache & Syrah from Spain & France

I’m a big fan of Grenache, both as a varietal wine and it’s classic place in blends with Syrah and other red Rhone grapes. This week, I have a handful of diverse Grenache wines from Spain, and a Grenache Gris from the Roussillon region of France really wowed me.

I also tasted a few Syrah-focused wines from the Southern Rhone appellation of Costières-de-Nîmes, whose wines I’ve really enjoyed in the past. The value can be excellent, too.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Bodegas Aragonesas Garnacha Coto de Hayas Centenaria - Spain, Aragón, Campo de Borja
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Nose of dark cherries, black currants and raspberry jam, with cocoa, vanilla and mint. Full and saucy on the palate, a chewy, fleshy style with mild tannins and medium acidity. Juicy black cherries and blackberries, mixed with vanilla, cocoa and earth. Smooth, fun, pleasant, good stuff for near-term drinking. (87 points)

2016 Bodegas San Alejandro Garnacha Las Rocas - Spain, Aragón, Calatayud
SRP: $12
Bright purple color. On the nose, spicy red and black cherries, raspberry jam, with black licorice and raspberries in dark chocolate notes.Full and chewy on the palate, juicy and fun with some light tannins and medium-low acidity. Plums, raspberry and blackberry jam, the fruit is backed up with anise, cola and dark chocolate. Fun, fruity, but well-made and solid for the price. (86 points)

2013 Las Moradas de San Martín Senda - Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Rich and dark on the nose with roasted figs, black cherries, along with anise, magic markers and coffee. Full-bodied, medium tannins, medium-low acidity. Dark plums, currants, saucy fruit mixed with spiced black tea, anise, charcoal and cedar. Bold, forward but built well. Calls for a big cut of grilled meat. 10 months in French oak. (87 points)

2015 Bodegas Ignacio Marin Ballad - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Classic, sweet, rich Garnacha aromas of raspberry jam, plum sauce, with some vanilla and dark chocolate. Fully, velvety, soft tannins, low acidity, this is all about the sweet plum cake and saucy raspberry fruit. Some coffee, chocolate and vanilla accents as well. Fun, chewy, rich, crowd-pleasing dessert wine. (86 points)

2016 Domaine de la Rectorie Banyuls Cuvée Thérèse Reig - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Banyuls
SRP: $33/500ml
Deep purple color. Saucy blueberries, roasted figs, along with clove, toasted coconut, vanilla and coffee grounds. Full and bold on the palate with quite strong tannins but medium acidity, plenty of sweetness, but the balance is aligned very nicely. A warm compote of blueberries, blackberries, roasted fig, laced with charcoal, clove, graham cracker, cinnamon. Complex and evocative already, this is an excellent Banyuls with many, many years ahead. I’d love to bury this for 20 years and hope I’m alive to taste it. (92 points)

2015 Domaine Jones Grenache Gris - France, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
SRP: $28

Deep yellow color. Love the nose: deep yet bright, with apricot, lemon curd, lime, salted almond, sea breeze, crushed chalk. Plump texture, a fascinating depth and waxy element, but tangy too, and the balance is lovely. Lemon, orange pith, apricot, with lots of sea salt, chalk, mountain stream, minerals, as well as honey, white tea and olive oil-like elements. Complex, vibrant, gorgeous. (91 points)

2015 Ferraton Père & Fils St. Joseph La Source - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
SRP: $32
Light purple color. Aromas of plums, juicy black cherries, topped in roasted herbs, espresso, campfire smoke and black pepper. Medium-bodied with medium+ tannins and moderating acidity, nice grip but the wine is fleshy and lively, too. Tart black currants and roasted figs and plum cake topped in charcoal, espresso, some black olives. Nice depth but also quite vibrant and ready to drink, although this could easily be cellared for a few years. (88 points)

2017 Château de Campuget Costières-de-Nîmes Rosé 1753 - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $16
Medium copper color. On the nose, an explosion of peaches, apricot, topped in nettle, honeysuckle and tropical flower petals. Plump texture on the palate but fresh acidity. Loads of white peaches, cantaloupe, apricot and lemons. I get notes of chalk, sea salt, lots of spicy floral and tea elements, some pepper and herbs. Juicy and fruity but vibrant and quite complex. 80% Syrah and 20% Vermentino. (89 points)

2015 Domaine de Poulvarel Costières-de-Nîmes Les Perrottes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $32
Light purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose with black cherry compote, loaded with violets, black pepper, coffee and charcoal. Full-bodied, solid grip from the tannins, medium acidity. Darker, Syrah-dominated fruit (blackberries and black cherries) mixed nicely with elements of pepper, cocoa, dark chocolate and earth. Big and dark but showing some good complexity, but I think this will be more expressive in two-to-four years. 65% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 5% Carignan. (89 points)

2014 Michel Gassier Costières-de-Nîmes Nostre Païs - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $20
Medium ruby color. Lots of aromas of pepper, sage, leather, grilled lamb, along with raspberries, cherries and plums. Full but fresh on the palate, the velvety tannins provide backbone while the acidity keeps the wine lively. Cool cherries, plums and raspberries laced with pepper, leather, chewing tobacco, grilled meats, and notes of earth and minerals as well. Showing very well now but this could hold for at least a few years. 35% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 5% Cinsault. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

Hey folks, this week I’m back with another round-up of wine samples from around the globe. Some delicious and budget-friendly wines from Argentinian producers Achaval-Ferrer and Domaine Bousquet showed well. I’ve also reviewed four wines from the Northern and Southern Rhone Valleys. Lastly, we finish off with some Blandy’s 10-Year Madeiras and a sparkling wine from Oregon producer Gran Moraine that I think deserves some serious attention.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 Achával-Ferrer Cabernet Franc - Argentina, Mendoza, Lujan de Cuyo
SRP: $23
Deep ruby color. Aromas of black cherries, juicy plums, along with tobacco leaf, menthol, sweet roses, coffee and cedar. Impressive structure on the palate, full-bodied and velvety but grip on the tannins, medium acidity. Black cherries and crunchy plum fruit mixes well with cocoa, coffee, spiced black tea, tobacco. Complexity and depth is impressive, but this is still an accessible and friendly wine. (88 points)

2016 Domaine Bousquet Gaia White - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $18
Light gold color. Bursting aromatics of peaches, yellow apples, quince paste, honey, along with ginger and spiced tea. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity and plump pears and apples, drizzled with lime. Hints of ginger, white pepper and shells add complexity. Crisp, fresh, delish, very good for the price. A blend of Chardonnay with 35% Pinot Gris and 15% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% of the wine sees six months in French oak. (89 points)

2015 Domaine Bousquet Gaia Red - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Aromas of sweet plums, blackberries, along with violets, sage, eucalyptus, mint, vanilla – great mix of aromas. Full and velvety on the palate but some nice grip to the tannins and fresh acidity, along with tart black cherry. Fruity but fresh with notes of eucalyptus, smoky charcoal, cedar, coffee. Hedonistic flavors but it stays tart and vibrant, and it works well. Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 10 months in French oak. (90 points)

2014 Famille Perrin Vinsobres Les Cornuds - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vinsobres
SRP: $16
Deep ruby color. Aromas of sweet but tangy cherries, along with lots of lavender, roses, rhubarb and pepper. Tangy and fresh appeal on a 13.5% alcohol frame, with accessible tannins and tart cherries and red plum. Notes of roses, lavender, sage, coffee. Vibrant and tangy but shows some complexity, definitely a crowd-pleasing, food-friendly wine. Grenache, Syrah. (87 points)

2015 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Beaumes-de-Venise Le Paradou - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Beaumes-de-Venise
SRP: $16
Light purple color. Aromas of tart black currants, plums, cherries, along with lavender, violets, rich earth. Medium grip on the tannins, tart acidity, along with plums, roasted figs, black currant. Notes of sweet violets, espresso, pepper, clove, lavender. Structured well but lively and fresh, too. 75% Grenache, 25% Syrah. (88 points)

2015 Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage Grand Classique - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
SRP: $23
Deep purple color. Gushing aromas of black cherry and blackberry with sweet herbs, coffee, mocha, anise and clove. Nice grip on the palate with medium acidity and lots of dark plummy fruit, gushing black currants, deliciousness abounds. Notes of sweet coffee, cedar, clove, pepper and anise add complexity. Straight delish but also impressive depth, and this could age well over the next few years. (89 points)

2014 Alain Voge Cornas Les Chailles - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
SRP: $45

Light purple color. Aromas of black cherries and currants, tons of smoky, herbal and savory aspects (black pepper, pine resin, smoked meat, bacon fat, lentils). Medium-bodied frame with serious grip to the tannins but vibrant acidity for freshness. Cool black cherries and tart plums, the fruit is topped in black pepper, charcoal, roasted meat, bacon fat, black olive. A bit tight but seriously good stuff, I would love to re-taste this in 5-8 years. From 40-year-old vines. (91 points)

2016 Castello di Gabbiano Dark Knight - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

SRP: $17
Medium ruby color. Aromas of tart cherries, sweet cola, coffee and cedar. Fresh and tart on the palate with lights tannins and tangy acidity. Crunchy red cherries and strawberry jam mix with notes of cola, cedar and vanilla. Pleasant, ripe, tasty, crowd-pleasing. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Sangiovese. (85 points)

N.V. Gran Moraine Pinot Noir Brut Rosé - Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton

SRP: $50

Pale copper color. Aromas of strawberries, white cherries, roses, honeysuckle, biscuits, toasted almond, sea salt, ginger — wow! Crisp acidity and a lot of textural depth and richness but such a refreshing, lip-smacking wine. Strawberries, white cherries, red apple peel, the fruit is topped in toasted baguette, flaky biscuits, salted almond, ginger, honeysuckle, sea breeze. The minerality is gorgeous. What an impressive sparkling wine. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (93 points)

N.V. Blandy's Madeira Sercial 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
SRP: $30/500ml
Golden/amber color. Aromas of sea salt, almonds, coconut shavings, ocean spray, along with quince paste and apricot jam. Rich textural depth on the palate but gorgeous acidity, honeyed but salty. Flavors of orange marmalade, apricot, sea salt, raw almond, ginger. Lovely depth on this wine, and a great introduction to serious Sercial at a very reasonable price. (90 points) 

N.V. Blandy's Madeira Malmsey 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
SRP: $30/500ml
Rich orange/brown color. Aromas of almond cake, orange marmalade, coconut, honey, salted caramel. Rich but salty, sweet but fresh. Flavors of quince and fig paste, orange marmalade, coconut, caramel, sea salt, honeycomb, candied pecans. Delicious, complex, lovely Malmsey, especially for the price. (90 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Unique Northern Rhone Gamay from Hervé Souhaut

Herve Souhaut (center), his vineyards in St. Joseph, and his cellars. Credit: Jenny & Francois Selections

The best Gamay wines in the world come from the heralded Cru-designated villages of France’s Beaujolais region. The best Syrah wines in the world come from the Northern Rhone Valley. What happens when you combine the two? Hervé Souhaut’s “La Souteronne”, that’s what.

This fascinating wine is made from 100% Gamay planted in schist soils across from the world-renown hill of Hermitage (in St. Joseph). The end result is a wine that mixes what I love about Beaujolais and the Northern Rhone Valley into a delightful package.

These Gamay vines are 60- to 80-years-old, and natural wine guru Hervén Souhaut produces some 3,000 bottles a year under his Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet, which he created in 1993. These wines come with a generic Vin de Pays appellation because Gamay is not a recognized grape variety in the Rhone Valley. But don’t let that fool you — these are beauties. As Souhaut’s importer puts it, this wine evokes, “something very familiar and Beaujolais-like, while cloaked under the influence of the Northern Rhone, suggesting the more dark and bacon-y tendencies of Syrah from this area.” I completely agree. For lovers of Cru Beaujolais and Northern Rhone Syrah, this is a freakishly delicious marriage of awesomeness.

I recently tasted three vintages of this wine, and loved each one of them. I’m interested in tasting older vintages, too, if I can track them down, because these wines seem to do fascinating things with cellar time.

I picked these up for about $20-$25 a pop, which is definitely worth it. If you can find them, don’t hesitate, because there aren’t many bottles to go around.

2015 Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet (Hervé Souhaut) La Souteronne - France, Rhône, Ardèche, Vin de Pays de l'Ardèche
Bright ruby color. So juicy on the nose but the fruit's a bit darker than the 14, still those classic meat, smoke and herb notes. Serious tannic grip on the palate, takes a bit to open up, but it's still fresh with acidity and full of juicy plum fruit. Lots of resin, smoke, leather jacket, charcoal, iron. Structured well for the cellar. (91 points)

2014 Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet (Hervé Souhaut) La Souteronne - France, Rhône, Ardèche, Vin de Pays de l'Ardèche
A bit brighter and less wild than the 2012. Smells like mushroom, herbs, spice drawer, chorizo, on top of tangy black cherries and strawberries. Dusty, tangy, crisp, this is such a pleasant and refreshing wine but it's packed with cool flavors. Tart cherries and raspberries topped with black pepper, grilled herbs, bloody steak, wet soil. Another fascinating, funky example of this unique Gamay. (90 points)

2012 Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet (Hervé Souhaut) La Souteronne - France, Rhône, Ardèche, Vin de Pays de l'Ardèche
Love this wine for its wacky wildness. Light ruby/cloudy color. Smells of mushroom, forest fire, pepper, herbal tea, wild game bird, on top of strawberries and raspberries. Medium-bodied, some dusty grip to the tannins, fresh acidity. Sour cherries and raspberries are loaded with peppered steak, charcoal fire, fallen leaves, wet/mossy soil, herbs and black tea. Opens up wonderfully to show more floral tones. On day 2, this was straight up braised lamb juice. Funky, weird, but I find it delicious. If you purchased this, you know what you're getting into. If you're pouring— for friends, include a disclaimer… or don't and watch their facial reactions — should be fun. (90 points)

Moving in, Drinking Up

This is one delicious Beaujolais with a long life ahead of it.

Moving into a new house is chaotic. After ten days or so, I’m starting to catch up and regain some level of order to my surroundings, but boxes are still stacked up all over, stuff is still littered about and the cats are still out of their minds in their new environment. 

But before the move, I made sure to pack a few wine glasses for easy access. What better way to christen a new home that popping some corks? 

I look forward to hosting a lot of great dinners and wine tastings in my new home this year. But in the meantime, here are some notes on a few recent bottles sipped among the chaos.

2011 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
$18/half-bottle
Bright green apple and melon, mixed in with more obvious elements of green and white peppers and spices, underlying notes of honey and white tea. Full-bodied and creamy but bright acid. The green apple, grapefruit and melon fruit is rich but mouth-watering, and the crisp acid keeps this clean and fresh. Notes of white pepper, jalapeno and shallots mix with richer notes of nuts, honey and dried almonds, green tea. Interesting, but I think I like Merry’s Sauv Blancs when they’re younger. I’ve been experimenting with aging a few, but I tend to enjoy them more within two years of the vintage. Still a beautiful Sauvignon Blanc, though. (90 points)

2012 Domaine Guerrin Pouilly-Fuissé La Maréchande - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé 
$22
Light golden color. Bright lime and lemon, topped with sea shells and salt, mixed with honeycomb, nuts and some sesame seeds. Medium-bodied and creamy but with refreshing acid, this wine is nervy and bright but set against a backdrop of ripe apple and apricot. Mineral-driven and salty, but some underlying richness, like honeycomb, white tea and wheat. Long finish. For $20, this is a total steal and should do interesting things over the next few years. (89 points) 

2010 Olivier Decelle - Pierre Jean Villa Côte de Brouilly - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
$25
Bright ruby color. Tart berries, strawberries, intense floral tones, really floral and pretty but serious rocky-loamy notes underneath. Firm tannic structure, on day one the tannins were severe, but the clean acid helped a lot. By day two, the wine had totally opened up and changed its approach to show a silky, bright and approachable sensibility. I got tart strawberries and red currants, along with serious mineral, graphite and earth elements. Opens up so much with air and gets softer and more refined. Incredible what air does to this wine. Long, pretty, tart, elegant, delicious. One for the cellar for sure, or at least a long decant. I love this gorgeous wine. (91 points)

2010 Domaine Vallet St. Joseph Meribets - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
$24
Dark ruby colored. Dark plums on the nose, tart red berries, some smoky tones and earth, some underlying pepper and bacon fat. Medium-bodied, 12.5% alcohol, bright acid keeps this fresh and lively, but it has a bold structure and firm tannic backbone. Tart currants and plums, hints of blackberry, the fruit is bold but oh so fresh. Lots of complex non-fruit elements: violets, roses, black tea, peppercorns, mix in some graphite, charcoal and smashed rocks. Just starting to show some bacon and smoke notes, especially with air, but this needs time to show its full potential complexity. Opened after a marathon day of moving and sipped this with family while eating Pete’s New Haven pizza. Good times. (89 points)

2005 Milz Laurentiushof Trittenheimer Leiterchen Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
$19/half-bottle
Golden apricot colored. Smells of apricot sauce, honeycomb, clovers, white peach, guava nectar. Crisp acid cuts through the intense richness on the palate, and this is actually quite a clean and fresh wine. Flavors of lime, white peach and guava, mixed with honeycomb, clovers, candied lemon and orange peel. Some underlying minerals, oceanic and slate elements. Sure it’s rich and unctuous, but I’m really surprised by the crisp acid here, which makes this capable of pairing with more than just sweet desserts. I’m a huge fan of the salinity and airy quality to this wine, which lingers long with those richer honeycomb flavors on the finish. Seems to have serious stuffing for age, but gorgeous now. (93 points)

Wine Reviews: Northern & Southern Rhone Goodies

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

I caught the wine bug from Rhone wines, and years later I’m still enthralled. The diversity of grapes, terroirs and winemaking styles is enough to keep even the nerdiest oenophile busy.

In this report, we’re focusing on some wines from both the Northern and Southern Rhone regions of France. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted as part of a report for the daily wine blog Terroirist.

2010 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Condrieu “La Combe de Malleval” - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

SRP: $86
A light gold color. Floral, bright citrus peel and a rush of limestone and mineral aromas. Some underlying clover honey and oil aromas, but this wine still needs time to open up. On the palate, a real sense of richness, like whipped honey and guava. But there’s clarity to the flavors and freshness from the acid. The mineral flavors are layered and complex, and I love the notes of honeycomb and ginger. Long finish. A real beauty of a young Condrieu. (93 points)

2012 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Viognier de Rosine - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes

SRP: $30
Light cold color. Smells like a tropical fruit stand, with papaya, all sorts of melon and nectarine, sweet flowers and honeyed note. A deep aromatic plunge. Medium bodied, medium acid, a creamy-honeyed mouthfeel. Love the complex flavors of honeydew, papaya, orange slices mixed with lychee nut, nougat and honeycomb. Some mineral and floral potpourri notes as well. I’m interested in cellaring this for three or four years, maybe more. (90 points)

2013 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

SRP: $30
Bright lemon colored. Vibrant and floral on the nose with papaya, nectarine, lemon curd, mixed in with some honeyed white tea. Fleshy and rich on the palate, with plump tropical fruits, but some medium acid holds it together. Lots of honeycomb, white tea, nougat and waxy elements, some spicy and herbal qualities as well. Quite complex but not burdensome. I’m curious about aging this for three to four years, but it’s plenty expressive at the moment. 80% Roussanne, 10% Grenache Blanc and 10% Clairette. (90 points)

2012 Mas Carlot Costières-de-Nîmes Cuvée Tradition - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes

SRP: $12
Nose is floral and honeyed with white peach and lime. On the palate, this is creamy but racy, with white peach, tangy lime and quince. I also get some minerals, slate, honeycomb, apple sauce and honeybutter. Impressive in its depth. A blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier. Such a good value. (88 points)

2013 Château Guiot Costières-de-Nîmes Rosé - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes

SRP: $12
Nose of strawberries, watermelon and wildflowers. Tangy and crisp on the palate with green apple, watermelon rind flavors. I get a nice mix of pepper, oregano, sage and sea shells. Juicy, clean with an oceanic finish. Yum. 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. (88 points)

2013 Mas Carlot Costières-de-Nîmes Rosé Cuvée Tradition - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes

SRP: $10
Bright salmon color. Spicy, peppery nose with some nettle and rose hips on top of watermelon and wild strawberry. Juicy and ripe with lots of watermelon, cranberry and McIntosh apple flavors, but I’m really enjoying the level of spice and minerals in this wine. I get white pepper, nettle, lemon verbena and some interesting oyster shell and limestone notes. Delicious, crisp and fun but showing a lot of complexity. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. (88 points)

2013 Château Grande Cassagne Costières-de-Nîmes Rosé - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes

SRP: $10
Light strawberry color. Bright roses and dandelions on the nose along with McIntosh apple and wild strawberries. Crisp and clean with bright white cherries and strawberries on medium-bodied frame. Some roses, white pepper and minerals give this complexity, but it’s lip-smacking and easy to drink all the way through. (86 points)

2013 Domaine de Fondrèche Côtes du Ventoux Rosé L'Instant - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Ventoux

SRP: $10
Very pale color, like tangerine pith. Lots of fresh flowers on the nose, along with some spicy white pepper and nettles, some oceanic elements. Nervy and mineral-driven on the palate with crisp green apple, strawberry and melon fruit, backed up by racy minerals. I also get some sea shells and white pepper, and the combination is working quite well. I’d love to pair this with salads or oysters. 50% Cinsault, 30% Syrah, 20% Grenache. (87 points)

2012 Domaine André Brunel Côtes du Rhône - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

SRP: $10
Nose of plums, currants, cracked pepper, charcoal and some smoke. On the palate, this wine shows fresh acid and some light tannins. Juicy cherries and raspberries, all of it tart and tangy, but fleshy as well. Some earthy, menthol and balsamic glaze elements, and some impressive mineral and graphite notes. Fun, juicy, food-friendly. 75% Grenache, 15% Cinsault and 10% Syrah. (86 points)

2012 Domaine de Fondrèche Côtes du Ventoux Persia - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Ventoux

SRP: $20
Dark purple color. Dark blackberries and bright cherries on the nose along with loads of spice and some deep floral tones. Bold approach but not overpowering with medium tannins and acid. Some charcoal, spiced steak and olives, but these bold and savory flavors come across on a bright, fresh frame. Lingering minerals and graphite on the finish. Very good stuff, drinkable now but could likely develop well in the cellar. 90 % Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. (90 points)

2012 Domaine de Fondrèche Ventoux Nadal - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, VentouxSRP: $20Explosive purple color. Smells of raspberries, red currants and blackberries, all thrown together into a mixed berry jam, also some dusty earth, pepper and baking spices. Solid tannic grip, medium- acid. The blackberries and red currants are bold and juicy, dusted with pepper, roasted herbs and campfire soot. A big boy at 14.5% alcohol, less acid than the previous two vintages, but still delicious and well made. 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. (88 points)

2012 Domaine de Fondrèche Côtes du Ventoux Cuvée Fayard - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Ventoux
SRP: $15
Tons of fig paste, smoky berries, animal hide and pepper on the nose, a bit compact but it opens with time. The fruit is so full and juicy (black cherry, currants, plums) but I love the smoke, charcoal, peppered steak and sweet herbs. Tasty stuff, but this could do with a few years. Long finish with coffee and lavender. 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Mourvédre. (88 points)

2012 Vignobles Mayard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Alex - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

SRP: $45
Vibrant, deep purple color. Dense nose of blackberry, roasted plums and cassis, backed up by notes of charcoal and pepper. I also get these great lavender and sweet clove aromas. Solid grip to the tannins, but they’re manageable, and the wine shows some medium acid. I love the way the juicy cassis and blackberry fruit is laced with pepper, cedar, anise, roasted chestnut and ginger snap elements. Impressive graphite, iron and mineral tones. Long and very complex, this is a bold and young wine that shows lots of promise. From old-vine Grenache and Mourvedre grown in La Crau and Grand Coulet. (93 points)

2013 in Review: My Top 5 Wines

Washington Post wine writer Dave McIntyre recently wrote: “Sometimes our favorite wines are memorable not just for what’s in the bottle but also for how we share them.” I couldn’t agree more. Looking back on 2013, I realized the most memorable wines where those I sipped with good company. I’m truly blessed to have the opportunity to taste so many epic wines, but I’m even more blessed to have such great family and friends with whom to share the joy.

As this year winds down, wine nerds like myself enjoy looking back on those wines that left us in awe. Here are the five wines that stunned me most over the past 12 months…

2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
After years of studying wine, tasting wine, collecting and storing it, sometimes you forget what it is about wine that drives a person to dedicate so much time, money and effort. Then a wine like this comes along and floors you, leaves you in complete amazement, and reminds you that life is fucking awesome. This Krug was the gem of an incredible May tasting at the Graham Hotel in Washington. I was surrounded by Krug and Dom and friends from Terroirist, and I felt perfectly content. The wine showed a beautiful golden apple color and a collage of rich and intense aromas: fresh biscuits, apricot, hazelnut, honey, caramel, shortbread cookies… the aromas just don’t quit. Dense and bold on the palate, but balanced by superb acid. Rich themes of apricot, hazelnut, honeycomb, caramel, Fuji apple, but they’re contrasted with intense limestone and quinine flavors. Full and hedonistic, yet sleek and elegant, this Champagne is a beautiful contradiction. 43% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier. I’d love to taste another bottle of this again when I’m old and crotchety. (98 points)

  

1998 Henri Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
I tasted this as part of a “domestic Rhone” themed tasting, filled with rich and powerful Syrahs from California and Washington State. This was the only actual Rhone wine in the tasting, and it was orgasmic. The complexity of aromas, the balance on the palate, the length of the finish, all of it is top notch. The aromas are endlessly beautiful: red berry fruit, dried cranberry, anise, olive tapenade, seaweed, oyster brine, musk and mineral. Pure and velvety on the palate, with silky tannins and brisk acid. Snappy red fruit is accentuated by lots of olive brine, crushed rocks, herbs, iron, white pepper, tobacco. One of the best syrahs I’ve had, period. And it’s in such a good place right now. As close to perfect as I can imagine. (98 points)

2001 Cayuse Syrah Bionic Frog - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
For six years or so, I’ve been tasting wine with a married couple who are huge Pacific Northwest fans. They’ve been so generous in showing me and our tasting crew the best that Oregon and Washington have to offer. They outdid themselves with this wine, one of the most culty and sought-after wines in Washington. And for good reason. It’s a simply sublime Syrah. Complex and profound aromas of black plum, dried blueberry, campfire smoke, rhubarb, grilled steak and charred earth. Brisk acid on the palate, with fine-grained tannins, very elegant at 12 years of age. The blackberry and plum fruit is still rich and opulent, but the non-fruit flavors steal the show: bacon, charcoal, grilled herbs, olive brine. Always expressive, but never overbearing, and a lot of this is credit to the wonderful acid. This wine is incredibly complex and has a near endless finish. It’s such an expensive and hyped wine, but like many Cayuse wines, I can’t help but love it. Probably the best Washington Syrah I’ve tasted. (96 points)

1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque - France, Champagne
Another mindblowing bottle from the May Moët tasting. Intoxicating aromas of lemon cake, buttered croissant, yellow apple, honeydew, dried white flowers... and the aromas just keep going. Rich on the palate, with green apple and melon fruit, buttered toast and dried honey, but this wine maintains so much focus and precision. The minerality in this wine is astounding, same goes for the acid, which never ceases. Such beautifully dramatic tension between the lean and rich aspects. Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy has made a masterpiece with this wine. If I had a bottle of this, I’d put it down with a cellar tag that reads “Do not open until apocalypse.” (96 points)

1983 Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Coronas Reserva Mas La Plana - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès
I tasted this birth-year Spanish Cabernet with Miguel Torres at a vertical tasting dinner earlier this year. Drinking various vintages of Mas La Plana, an historical Spanish Cab, eating Spanish food and discussing wine with Miguel Torres — it was quite a night. This 30-year-old wine showed a vibrant ruby-cherry color in the glass. The nose is incredibly complex and full of nuance. I get plum, red currants, anise, beef jerky, pepper, and the aromas just keep going, shifting and evolving over the course of the evening. Fine tannins and lots of acid provide backbone for the black cherry and red currant fruit, which is still alive and well. The earth, olive, tobacco and cedar flavors are woven together well, and minerality underlines it all. Brisk, pure and so focused. Miguel said ‘83 was the best vintage of the ‘80s, and, given this epic effort, I believe him. Aged for six months in new American and French oak, then a year in old casks. A refreshing 12.5% alcohol. (95 points)

A Night of Delicious Domestic Rhones

The Rhone Valley of France has always been one of my favorite wine regions, partly because it’s the ancestral home of so many amazing grapes, red ones like syrah, grenache and mourvedre, white grapes like roussanne, marsanne and viognier. And it was here, in the Northern Rhone hills of Côte-Rôtie, where vintners first began co-fermenting syrah with a dash of viognier — which is obviously one of humankind’s greatest ideas.

Another such idea was planting these grapes in California and Washington State. American winegrowers have decades of experience producing stellar Syrahs, Rhone-style blends, as well as whites. Domestic “Rhone” wines feature prominently in my cellar, they make frequent appearances on my dinner table, and they constantly wow me at wine tastings. So it was with much pleasure that I attended a wine tasting dinner with a domestic Rhone theme. Organized by David White of Terroirist (a daily wine blog I occassionally write for), ten of us got together for some domestic Rhone wines and grilled lamb. (Syrah and lamb is a match made in heaven.)

Here are my notes from an evening of epic wines…

Whites

2011 Two Shepherds Pastoral Blanc Saralee’s Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Smells like those peach ring gummies, sweet white flowers and even a hint of mineral. Tangy acid, plump white peach and canteloupe fruit. A waxy mouthfeel, but this stays crisp the entire time, something I find rare in California white Rhone blends. A blend of 40% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne, 20% Viognier and 10% Grenache Blanc, fermented and aged in old oak. (88 points)

2011 Halcon Vineyards Prado Alder Springs - California, North Coast, Mendocino
What a beautiful white blend. Aromas of peaches and cream, lemon zest, clover honey and vanilla. On the palate, this wine is oily and full but the acid is persistent and snappy. Melon, pineapple and banana mix with notes of mineral and vanilla bean. Juicy and ripe, but it stays elegant. 50% Marsanne, 50% Roussanne, aged in 20% new French oak. (93 points)

2010 Phoenix Ranch Viognier Phoenix Ranch - California, Napa Valley
Fresh and bright on the nose, lemons, limes, potpourri, honeysuckle. Full-bodied, but so crisp and delightful on the palate that it never feels heavy. Pineapple, green melon and white cherry combine with honey and a distinct chalky flavor that I really enjoy. All stainless steel and aged 10 months on the lees. Rarely do I find a Napa Valley Rhone white that’s so brisk. (90 points)

Reds

2010 Black Ankle Vineyards Syrah Leaf-Stone - Maryland, North Central Piedmont
Tasted blind from a decanter. Interesting mix of aromas: cherry sauce, tart berries, fresh tobacco leaf. On the palate this wine is quite soft, which made me think it had some age on it. Fine tannins and crisp acid. Juicy berry and currant fruit, along with leather, tobacco and a hint of tomato paste. A bit of toast lingers on the finish. I had all sorts of ideas about what this could be (a modern style Bordeaux? An Aussie cab?) but I never would’ve guessed a Maryland syrah. It’s not a typical syrah, but it’s a very solid wine. Lots of other tasters enjoyed this wine and everyone was surprised that it came from Maryland. Black Ankle produces some of the best wines in the state, and this bottle is further proof. (90 points)

2006 Syncline Syrah McKinley Springs Vineyard - Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills
This was my contribution to the tasting. Complex and seductive aromas of roasted coffee, all sorts of mixed berries, white pepper. So polished on the palate with fine tannins and solid acid, combining in a velvety mouthfeel. I love the cranberry, red and black plums, coffee and dark chocolate flavors. So pure on the finish. Despite it’s dark and rich nature, the wine leaves the palate refreshed, not overwhelmed. A beauty that I’d like to revisit in two or three years, except I don’t have any more. Damn! They nickname this vineyard the “Espresso Block” for its dark color and rich flavors. The syrah was co-fermented with 2% Viognier as well and aged in old French oak, which allows the purity of flavors to shine through without dominant oak influence. (93 points)

2008 Betz Family Bésoleil - Washington, Columbia Valley
Herbal on the nose, like rosemary and sage, mixed up with red berries, smoke and rhubarb. Pure velvet on the palate, rich but very balanced by the acid and fine tannins. Flavors of red cherries, strawberry, along with milk chocolate and herbal notes of white pepper and rosemary. Green olive lingers onto the finish. A stunning blend of 82% Grenache, 9% Mourvedre and 9% Syrah. (92 points)

2008 Long Shadows Wineries Syrah Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
Love the aromatics: cherry pits, blackberry, olive and campfire. Good amount of game and olive to accent the sweet red and black plum flavors. Minerals and charcoal last long on the finish. Overall, very nice,and perhaps I’d rate it higher than 90 if I hadn’t tasted it alongside so many awesome wines. (90 points)

2001 Behrens & Hitchcock Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard Homage to Ed Oliveira - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Aromas of dark plums, fig, tobacco, soil and dried roses. Fine tannins and medium acid, this wine feels like glycerin on the palate. The fig, date, caramel and smoke flavors are deep and brooding. A dense and serious syrah that still has years ahead of it. I was surprised this was from 2001. If tasted blind I would’ve guessed 2006 or 2007. (92 points)

2008 Saxum Broken Stones - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Ah, Saxum. This blend of 79% syrah, 13% grenache and 8% mourvedre smells like paint, incense smoke, dried roses, blueberries and a whole mess of other things. So complex aromatically, although we did drink this out of a decanter, which I highly recommend. The palate is extracted and thick as motor oil. The fig and blueberry fruit is undeniably delicious, but the fruit is backed up by charcoal, black olive, vanilla and smoke flavors. Very dense and probably capable of much more in a few years. (93 points)

2008 Saxum James Berry Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Obviously, this is a massive wine. That said, what a beauty. A medley of wild berries, figs, charcoal and iron on the nose. Full on the palate with firm tannins and loads of pureed berry and plum fruit. The acid somehow keeps this wine juicy, almost velvety. Packed with secondary flavors of grilled herbs, charcoal, anise, chocolate. A gorgeous beast of a wine that will reward the extremely patient. 52% Grenache, 31% Syrah and 17% Mourvedre. (94 points)

2008 Copain Syrah James Berry Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Another James Berry Vineyard from 2008 and another winner. Mocha, caramel, fig, licorice, chocolate... the nose is incredible. Full and dense on the palate, but the raspberry and plum fruit tastes fresh and the acid is lovely. So complex and layered, with chocolate and caramel and anise. Endless finish that actually tastes crisp and makes you want to take another sip. A beauty that will be even better in five or 10 years. (94 points)

2008 Carlisle Syrah Cardiac Hill Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
Rich blackberries, earth, olive brine and smoke on the nose. Full-bodied and generous, yet balanced and easy to drink. Great combination of black fruits, meat, olive and charcoal. Acid carries onto the finish, which is long and smoky. I’ve enjoyed wines from Cardiac Hill before, and this is no exception. A good five years ahead of it, I’d wager. (91 points)

1998 Henri Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
The only actual Rhone wine in the tasting, this Hermitage is orgasmic. The complexity of aromas, the balance on the palate, the length of the finish, all of it is top notch. The aromas are endlessly beautiful: red berry fruit, dried cranberry, anise, olive tapenade, seaweed, oyster brine, musk and mineral. Pure and velvety on the palate, with silky tannins and brisk acid. Snappy red fruit is accentuated by lots of olive brine, crushed rocks, herbs, iron, white pepper, tobacco. One of the best syrahs I’ve had, period. And it’s in such a perfect place right now. As close to perfect as I can imagine. (98 points)

My Favorite Wines of 2012

Another year is winding down. I don’t know about you, but I had one hell of a 2012. I caught some of the best waves in recent years out in Sonoma County, as well as all over the Jersey Shore during an excellent fall storm season. I spent a lot of quality time with friends and family, went to a lot of rocking concerts and, of course, drank some pretty fine vino. Since I take obsessive notes on the wines I taste, it’s easy for me to look back and find the wines that wowed me the most over the course of the year.

This year, my favorite wines fell into one of four categories: Burgundy, Chateaneuf-du-Pape, syrah and German riesling. These four categories of wine probably account for 75% of the wine I drink these days. After years and years of exploring every possibly grape variety and wine region in the world, I’ve fallen into something of a stride. I know what I love, and I drink what I love. So here are the wines I loved most in 2012.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

It was CdP that gave me the wine bug in 2006, and six years later, this region still tugs at my heart. I’ve consumed a lot of different vintages of Chateaneuf this year (my CdP b-day party was something to be remembered), but my favorites almost exclusively came from the 2010 vintage. Heralded by pretty much everyone as the greatest CdP vintage in recent memory, the 2010s are beyond impressive. They’re so young and compact, with gritty tannins, fresh acid and pure fruit built for the long-haul. That said, it was a true honor to taste a lot of 2010s young, because they offer a wine-drinking experience unlike anything else.

2009 Chapelle St. Theodoric Châteauneuf-du-Pape le Grand Pin (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape) This CdP is gorgeous dark purple color in the glass. Initially the aromas were tight, and I think this wine really needs a decant to show its full stuff. But with some swirling the complexities come out: raspberry, kirsch, also some lovely charred meat and beef broth aromas. The palate is dense and full, very compact. This wine needs a few years to open up, but it’s gorgeous. Lovely brightness of fruit, and it’s not heavy at all. I love the kirsch meets herbs and beef broth flavor that lingers on the finish. What a beauty! 95 points

2010 Chapelle St. Theodoric Châteauneuf-du-Pape le Grand Pin (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape) I've tasted some great 2010 CdPs, but this is way up there. Co-owned by American importer Peter Weygandt and Domaine de Cristia owner Baptiste Grangeon, this is an elite-level wine made from grenache grown in the sandy soils near the heralded producer Rayas. Much more concentration than Rayas, but still retains this lovely mineral and freshness. Aromas of fig, cocoa dust, roasted chestnut, cigar shop and herb-tinged blackberries. Wow. The fruit is like nectar on the palate, but that 2010 acid shines through and keeps this bound together. Very deep and sexy flavors here, all sorts of black fruit, mixed with some red berries, and packed with earthy and mineral flavors. I loved the 2009, but this is even better, with more focus and aging potential. Amazing stuff, and it’s only going to improve. Bury this wine for a decade and see what happens. My Wine of the Year. 97 points

2010 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chaupin (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape) A near-perfect 2010 Chateauneuf, made from 100% grenache. Wow, the structure and depth of this wine is astonishing. Aromas of cedar, tobacco, anise, black cherries, black pepper and hints of toast. The aromas combine to form a tight fist that will take years to unpack. Very young, with firm tannins and tightly-compacted fruit, but enough acid to make this pleasant to drink. I love the complex fig, tar, herb garden and earth flavors in this wine. An incredibly long finish. I would absolutely love to try this again in 15 years, it’s got at least that much time ahead of it. I know Robert Parker and Tanzer swooned over this, but they’re on to something here. Superb. 96 points

Burgundy

I can’t really afford it that often (and Grand Cru Burgundy even less so), but I’ve had the opportunity to taste some pristine Burgundies this year. I’ve enjoyed a lot of premier cru and village-level Burgs, which are far more reasonably priced, but Grand Cru Burgundy is expensive for a reason: it’s the best pinot noir in the world. These two examples are at the top of my 2012 list.

1995 Bernard Dugat-Py Mazis-Chambertin (France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru) What a beautiful Burgundy. The nose is intoxicating and intense. One aroma blends into the next: savory meat and broth, leather, violets, pure cherry fruit, distinct earthiness. On the palate, everything is beautiful and in place, with the fine tannins, fresh acid and purity of flavors. The earthiness to this wine is amazing. Seems like it has a while ahead of it, but it tastes heavenly right now. 96 points

2001 Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares (France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru) When Robert Groffier is on, he is on. And what a gorgeous wine it is. Vibrant purple color with brick red rims. The aromas alone made this the wine of the night. Sexy, smooth, pure aromas of cranberry, white pepper and potpourri, a hint of Indian spices. The palate starts off brisk, almost tart, but then a wave of fine-grained tannins and lush fruit pour in. Roses, ripe cherries, dark soil flavors, but acid sails through the whole time. The purity of flavor on the finish... it’s just incredible. For my palate, this wine had that perfect balance of power and elegance. I would love to revisit this in another five years, as some of those mature flavors start to develop. 95 points

Syrah
Syrah and pinot noir are locked in a constant battle for my favorite red wine grape. But after this year I just may have to officially call the fight a draw, because I drank some syrah that just blew me away.

2004 Cayuse Syrah En Cerise Vineyard (Washington, Walla Walla Valley) This wine was a perfect way to top off an evening of incredible wines from the Pacific Northwest. The aromas are simply divine: plum sauce, caramel, rose petals, olive brine and forest floor. Fruity and rich on the palate, to say the least. I like the red fruit profile of this wine, mostly cherries and raspberries. The fruit is backed up by savory spices, peppered steak, soy sauce and coffee grinds. It’s rare that I find a wine this ripe and hedonistic that still keeps its balance, not to mention all this non-fruit flavors that are kicking serious ass. Poetry in a bottle, my friends. Fucking poetry. This is my first time tasting this wine, but it appears to be in an ideal state right now. There’s a reason why Cayuse is such a cult phenomenon. 95 points

2006 Cayuse Syrah Cailloux Vineyard (Washington, Walla Walla Valley) Wow, what a tremendous syrah. Beautiful and vibrant purple color, clear and bright. I believe this had been opened for a while before the tasting, but it showed instant aromatic complexity: sweet violets, rose petals, blueberry. There’s a hint of green olive on the nose, and also some sweetness, like creme brulee. Simply captivating to sniff. On the palate, we’re talking tannins made of the finest silk. Pure flavors of blueberry and fig paste are backed up with charcoal, coffee and olive tapenade. The complexity is absurd! I took like half a page of notes on this wine, but I’ll stop now. It’s awesome. 95 points

  

2004 Copain Syrah James Berry Vineyard (California, Central Coast, Paso Robles) This is an incredibly dark and vibrant-looking syrah. It’s really compact right out of the bottle, and a few hours in the decanter helped coax out some more aromas. Plum cake, fig, tar and war paint aromas dominate. After three hours in the decanter it started to show a bit more olive and smoke aromas. On the palate, this wine is very extracted, with a mouthfeel like glycerin and paint mixed together. Flavors of plum pits, blueberry pie, fruit cake, dark chocolate and toast combine in a dense, tight package. The tannins are fine-grained and provide solid backbone. Just enough acid to keep it going, even though I normally prefer more acid in my syrah. It evolved with air and time in the decanter to show some loam and charcoal flavors, which add complexity. After three hours I started picking up some olive and brine flavors, and as a Northern Rhone lover, I was very pleased. This syrah deserves to be taken seriously by any wine lover, because even though it’s steeped in this bombastic Paso Robles style, it’s elegant in its own way. In my mind, this is a great example of Paso Robles’ syrah, much more my style than Saxum. What’s important to me in a Paso Robles wine is the purity of the flavors and at least some semblance of balance. Copain’s 2004 James Berry syrah has both. I can’t believe I don’t have another one of these to tuck away for five more years. This is up there with the best syrahs I’ve had all year. 95 points

2001 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle (France, Northern Rhône, Hermitage) I can’t deny my love for this wine. The aromas are seductive and complex, lots of fresh red cherry fruit, a mix of green and black olives, and spices like bay leaf, white pepper and potpourri. I poured myself a glass and smelled it over the course of the evening, and every ten minutes the aromas shifted and evolved in complexity. On the palate, this wine is pure silk. The wine coats the palate with fine tannins, but the acid is so fresh, keeping the wine elegant. Amazing complexity of flavors: crushed berries, grilled herbs, cured meat, olive tapenade and smoke. Long finish. Incredible stuff. I’d love to re-taste this in five more years. 95 points

Riesling

I didn’t drink nearly as much riesling in 2012 as I did in 2011, but that’s mostly due to the fact that (unfortunately) I didn’t make a pilgrimage to Germany’s Mosel Valley this year. Still, year after year, bottle after bottle, Mosel riesling continues to be one of my favorite things in life. There’s no competition in my mind for the best white wines in the world. This year I only rated one German riesling 95 points or more, and here it is…

2010 Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Riesling von blauem Schiefer Reserve (Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer) Golden yellow color in the glass. Exotic aromas abound: white peach, fresh wildflowers, orange zest and hints of clover honey. The acid hits the palate right away, and sticks around through the finish. The acid is lip-smackingly high, but I have to admit: I friggin’ love it. The flavors are crazy-good: rich white peach, Granny Smith apple, lime zest, margarita salt, tangerine rind... the flavors go on and on. The level of freshness is absurd. This riesling shows rich fruit but it's laced with tons of acid and minerals for balance. Hints of chestnut on the long finish. I’ve tasted a ton of 2010 Mosel rieslings, but this is one of my favorites for sure. Classic. I'm going to try and age several bottles of this wine because it will improve for 10, 20 maybe even 30 years. But it’s so delicious, I’m not sure if it stands a chance of being left undisturbed for long. 95 points

Honorable Mentions — A Few 94-pointers

2005 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Spätlese (Germany, Pfalz)

2002 Weingut Jakob Schneider Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spätlese (Germany, Nahe)

2008 Cameron Pinot Noir Clos Electrique (Oregon, Willamette Valley)

2003 Clarendon Hills Syrah Brookman (South Australia, Clarendon)

2005 Château Rieussec (France, Bordeaux, Sauternes)