Friday, August 27, 2021

Wine Reviews: Chile & Argentina

It’s been a while since I’ve delved into some wines from Chile and Argentina, so I’m excited to share some new offerings.

Three reds from Argentina make an appearance in this report, and the Mascota Vineyards Unanime brand show juicy, lively styles that are great for a slight chill on a warm evening.

Most of the wines in this report hail from Chile, and these producers are also touting their sustainability efforts. Koyle is a biodynamic producer that gets 40% of its power supply from solar panels. And Emiliana is one of the largest organic and biodynamic producers in the world. What I love is how some of these producers are able to utilize these methods and produce delicious, interesting wines at super reasonable price points.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Trapiche Cabernet Sauvignon Medalla - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Vibrant but deep nose of black cherries and raspberries with rose petals, clove, cigar shop and sweet cocoa. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, lively acidity. Tart blueberry meets juicy black cherries, and the fruit is topped in notes of mocha, tobacco, mint, rose petals. Nice earthy and tar tones, too. All Cabernet from estate vineyards, aged 18 months in French oak. (88 points)

2017 Mascota Vineyards Pinot Noir Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. Smells of bright blueberries and black cherries, tossed with leather, tobacco, notes of iron, graphite and dusty earth. Structured well with round-edged tannins and vibrant acidity. Darker style but still fresh, with tangy black cherry fruit, which plays well of notes of potting soil, charcoal, graphite, leather, clay. A lot of complexity packed in here, and it gets more and more expressive with air. A Pinot Noir with this level of balance and depth at this price point is impressive, and from Argentina, no less. Aged 12 months in French oak. (89 points)

2017 Mascota Vineyards Malbec Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with ripe plums and black cherries, deep fruit with notes of smoky earth, anise, warm fallen leaves, some vanilla, too. Medium-bodied, velvety smooth tannic structure, crisp acidity. A juicy but pleasant feel to the fruit (black cherries and figs), along with fallen leaves, cola, earth and some vanilla. Ripe but nuanced, this has a lot to offer. Aged a year in French oak. (89 points)

2019 Viu Manent Malbec Secreto - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Ooh, the nose cranks with spice (sage, pepper, grilled steak) along with plums and juicy black cherries. Medium-bodied on the palate, delightful acidity with smooth tannins. Tart currants and chew plums blend well with a host of pepper, charcoal-grilled meat and violet petals. There’s a nice depth of texture with lots of spicy and earthy complexity. I was shocked to see this price point. Includes a “secret” blend of 15% other grapes. (89 points)

2019 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva “Serie Riberas” Palo Santo Vineyard - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley, Marchigüe
SRP: $17
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of tart plums and currants, laced with oregano and mint, along with leather, campfire, dark chocolate shavings and some graphite. Full-bodied with nice grip and moderate acidity. Tart plums and rich blackberry fruit blends well with lots of delicious, spicy tones of bell pepper, sage and coffee. Notes of tar, graphite and vanilla add complexity. Rich but savory, nice and lively, this could even age. Really good stuff for the price. Includes some 5% combined Carmenere and Syrah, aged 10 months in 21% new French oak. (89 points)

2019 Viña Tarapacá Gran Reserva Organic Red Blend - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Nose pops with sweet plums and currants, cocoa, tossed with coffee, anise and spicy black tea. Jammy and rich on the palate with medium acidity and smooth tannins. Flavors of plum sauce and currant jam are whipped together with spicy pepper, mint, charcoal and violet petal and earth tones. Fun, accessible, grill-friendly wine that has a ripe appeal but also spicy, floral complexity. 31% Cabernet Franc, 26% Syrah, 22% Carmenere, 11% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 20% new French oak. (87 points)

2018 Viña Maquis Cabernet Franc Gran Reserva - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $24
Deep ruby color. Ripe but tangy fruit on the nose (black cherries, plums) along with lots of spicy pepper, paprika, black tea, warm clay, violets – really inviting and complex. Medium-bodied, nice dusty tannic grip, fresh acidity – the balance is lovely. Tart plums and juicy red and black currants, suave and tangy, and this has a delightfully spicy mix of pepper, coffee grounds, tar, violets, roasted red peppers and potting soil. Seriously complex and vivacious, this is a gorgeous Cabernet Franc for an awesome price. Aged one year in French oak. (91 points)

2018 Viñedos Emiliana Coyam - Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $35
Deep purple color. The nose shows deep plums and blackberries along with smoky earth, graphite, warm rocks, sweet pipe tobacco and some smoked meat tones. Deep and suave on the palate with nice grip and vibrant acidity – so fresh. Tart currants and black cherry fruit, laced well with earth, iron, minerals, spicy pepper and pepperoni tones. Complex, deep but fresh, this is beautiful and should improve nicely over the next 42% Syrah, 39% Carmenere with Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Malbec, Carignan, Tempranillo and Mourvedre. (90 points)

2019 Viña Koyle Carménère Gran Reserva ­ Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
SRP: $17
Deep ruby color. The nose is ripe and spicy with cherries and blackberries, mixed nicely with tar, chewing tobacco, freshly-paved road, and some cool soy and roasted red pepper tones. Crisp acidity frames this wine nicely, a dusty tannic feel, this is fresh and fun with cherries, raspberries and red plums, a tangy and bright approach with the fruit. Notes of black pepper, clove, dried rose petals, black tea and scorched earth adds complexity. Fun but complex and balanced wonderfully, this is a brisket-friendly Carmenere with 10% Tempranillo and 5% Petit Verdot, aged 14 months in French oak. (90 points)

2019 Viña San Pedro Cabernet Sauvignon 1865 Selected Vineyards - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Lovely nose of black currants and blackberries, with tobacco, violets, warm clay, some vanilla and cedar. Silky tannins on the palate with vibrant acidity and a nicely balanced feel. Tart currants and smoky black cherries are woven together with anise, loamy earth, tobacco, with some dark chocolate shavings and coffee. Accessible and fun, but sports solid complexity for the price point as well. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Monday, August 9, 2021

Thrilling Pinot and Chardonnay from Merry Edwards & Alma Fria

This week, I’m highlighting two Sonoma County producers who bring me joy. I, for one, could use a bit of joy these days. I’ve been a fan of both of these producers for a while now, and I was excited to revisit them through the new releases. While tasting, I was comforted but just how reliably delicious and honest these wines are.

Merry Edwards has always had my respect, from Merry’s groundbreaking spot in Sonoma wine history, to the fact that the wines continue to deliver, vintage-in, vintage-out. With winemaker Heidi von der Mehden at the helm, this slew of 2019 Pinot Noirs continues the winery’s strong legacy.

I’ve been following Alma Fria since their 2013 vintage, and found these wines to be consistently exciting. If you’re a fan of lower alcohol Pinots and Chardonnays, with more citrus on the Chard side and tangy red fruit on the Pinot side, you should really check these out. The single-vineyard Pinots, like the Doña Margarita Vineyard near Freestone and the Holtermann Vineyard near Annapolis, deserve some cellar time, or plenty of air to strut their stuff. Winemaker Carroll Kemp really rocks it with the entry-level Plural wines, which have some sourced fruit and serve as are a great introduction to the producer’s style. They’re honestly some of the most delicious and bang-for-the-buck Pinots and Chards I find from California.

These wines were received as samples, and the Merry Edwards Pinot Noirs were tasted single-blind, while the others were tasted sighted.

2018 Alma Fría Chardonnay Plural - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. The aromas pop with lemon curd, orange peel, and a vibrant mix of sea salt, hay, flinty and mineral elements, and some almond skin and honey. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy with lovely texture, a perfect amount of salinity and oyster shell elements that carries this wine. Lemons for days with some apricot and white peach, tossed together with chalk dust, honeyed tea, such verve and depth here, especially when you consider the price. Complex and delicious stuff here, a Chardonnay for Chenin fans. (93 points)

2018 Alma Fría Chardonnay Campbell Ranch Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Aromas are fresh and citrusy, with lemon curd and sliced pineapple mixed with these chalky, yellow floral tones. Pristine and fresh on the palate, with a nice balance between textural depth and salty, brisk vibes. Lemons and kiwi blend well with nuances of salted pecan, honey, minerals and chalk dusty. Pure, vibrant, nuanced Sonoma Coast Chardonnay here. (93 points)

2018 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Plural - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $40
Medium ruby color. Vibrant aromas of cherries, strawberries and red plums, along with rose petals, warm clay, some oregano and mint. Medium-bodied, silky tannins on the palate, with lively acidity. Ripe but fresh tones of strawberries, McIntosh apple and wild raspberries, tossed together with notes of clove, cinnamon, rose petals. Nice spicy tones round out the finish. Such a balanced and nuanced wine, with complexity that rocks at this price point. (92 points)

2018 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Holtermann Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $70
Bright ruby color. Such enticing aromas, spicy, airy, elegant, with raspberries and red apple peel, along with rhubarb, white pepper, tobacco and rose hips. On the palate, this Pinot is so silky and elegant, with a medium-bodied frame and crisp, focused acidity. Plush but tangy fruit (raspberries, strawberries, cherry), topped in complexities of rhubarb, white pepper, tobacco. With air these underlying notes of wet clay, mushroom and potting soil really start to shine. This is complex, nuanced, vibrant stuff. This vineyard is home to some very special grapes, and Alma Fria makes a beauty of a wine from them. (94 points)

2018 Alma Fría Pinot Noir Doña Margarita Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $70
Bright ruby color. Such an airy, floral, inviting display on the nose, with rose petals, rhubarb, some oregano and white pepper, over top of raspberries, pomegranate and red apple. Expressive and invigorating, which transitions onto the palate, which is crisp and vibrant with dusty tannins. Raspberries and tangy red plum fruit blends well with complex notes of dried roses, white pepper, warm desert rocks and oregano. This stuff is balanced and age-worthy, or give it plenty of air and watch it evolve and pop. (94 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Pale lemon color. Gorgeous fruit on the nose (grapefruit, kiwi, green apple), topped in chalk dust, fresh mountain stream, and complex elements of honeysuckle, mint and sage. Zippy acidity frames the wine so well, balanced with deep texture, and plenty of salty, minerals, mountain stream tones. The lime, kiwi and ruby red grapefruit is juicy but tangy, and it all works well over these floral perfume, white pepper, cucumber slices, honey and chalk dust. I’ve tasted this wine a lot over the years, and there’s something about this vintage. Phenomenal stuff. This spends four months on the lees and is aged in French oak, 18% new. (95 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $60
Medium ruby color. So fresh and juicy on the nose with red plums and wild raspberry, over top of rhubarb, cola, violets, some nuanced cedar and sarsaparilla. Full but fresh with smooth tannins, a pleasantly chewy but vibrant feel with black cherries and raspberry jam fruit. Violets, rhubarb, white pepper, along with some earthy, dusty tones and herbal tea, add complexity to this juicy, fun Pinot. Aged nine months in 55% new French oak. (91 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $73
Deep ruby color. On the nose, this shows a nice mix of deep black cherries, ripe summer plums, cranberry relish, along with light roast coffee and herbal tea component, with savory spices mixed in, too. Medium/full-bodied with smooth tannins and vibrant, fresh acidity. Tangy blackberries, plums and cherries, darker, deeper fruit, but it maintains a tart edge. Roasted chestnut, toffee, violets, cigar box and some mineral undertones elevate the finish. Definitely one to cellar for at least a few years. Aged 10 months in 68% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $73
A solid core of ruby. The aromas are so fresh, with ripe cherries, pomegranate, strawberry, backed up by pepper, roses, warm clay, rhubarb, and a lot of floral depth with air. On the palate, this is silky but structured, with zesty acid, great balance, and a deep but tangy mix of cherry, pomegranate and raspberry fruit. Elements of thyme, pepper, dried rose petals, clove, dusty earth. The mouthfeel is fantastic, but this needs at least a few years to show its best. Aged nine months in 69% new French oak. (94 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Light ruby color. A bright and elegant display on the nose of raspberries and red apple peel, rose petals, violets, with some cola, herbal tea and light roast coffee. Velvety, fresh and crisp on the palate, with delightful balance. The raspberry and chilled cherry fruit is delicious and fresh, mixed with notes of oregano, black tea, some clay and mushroom tones. Really exciting stuff that should do well with a few years in the cellar. Aged 10 months in 54% new French oak. (93 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80
Deep ruby color. A warm aromatic compote of raspberries, cherries and cranberry relish, along with notes of warm clay, violets, some wild herbs and creosote tones – really nice. Full-bodied, solid structure but rounded tannic edges, deep but balanced with vibrant acidity. Suave plum, strawberry and cherry fruit play well off these notes of sage, paprika, pepper – a ton going on here. Broth, mushroom tones need time to come out. This needs time, but it is so, so good. Aged nine months in 83% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.