This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
When studying the history of California Wine,
Livermore Valley pops up again and again. From the opening of the region’s
first winery in 1880s, to the Chardonnay pioneering of Wente Vineyards, to
Concannon’s work with Cabernet clones and Petite Sirah promotion. California, as a whole, owes a whole lot to Livermore Valley.
 |
| The map shows the demarcation of the Livermore Valley American Viticultural Area. |
When I was first getting into wine, I drank a bunch
of Concannon’s $10 Petite Sirahs and Cabernets. As I moved along in my wine
journeys, I didn’t think as much more about Livermore Valley. But this
west-east valley, which sits 35 inland from the San Francisco Bay, is home to some
4,000 acres of diverse grape varieties.
I recently tasted through a group of Livermore
Valley offerings and found some interesting bottles. Several of the wines
boasted new American oak signatures, more so than I find in tastings of other
California regions. But the richer wines (especially the Petite Sirah from
Vasco Urbano) seem able to absorb it well.
These wines were received as trade samples and
tasted sighted.
SRP: $25
Pale lemon color. Clean citrus fruit mixed with
tropical notes of papaya and kiwi, zesty with hints of white pepper but not
really any green aromas. Almost full bodied, this is a creamy textured wine
with moderate acid. Kiwi, papaya, pineapple, add in some lemon and lime zest,
slight sense of chalk and seashell, hint of white pepper. Richly texture, but I
like the bright flavors, no mean green elements. Tangy and crisp. From
Ghielmetti Vineyard. (87 points)
SRP: $16
Light gold color. Smells of honeybutter, yellow
apples, apricots, toasted nuts and vanilla. Very creamy on the palate, honeyed,
but the acid actually keeps it in check a little. The fruit is a good mix of
richer tropical elements with pears, apples and apricot. Toasted almonds,
vanilla and nougat elements from the American oak are woven in to the overall
package. Not really complex or deep, but it does what it does well. A Livermore
Valley staple, Concannon Chardonnay is a solid value and consistently a good
example of this creamy, nutty, rich style. Contains 5% Semillon. (85 points)
SRP: $30
Rich golden color. Deep, rich aromatics, glazed
pears, golden apples, apricot jam, mixed in with white floral, honey, toasted
nuts and bread. Full bodied, a rich and chewy wine but some moderate acid. The
bruised yellow apple, apricot jam and baked pear fruit is drizzled with lime
juice and topped with toasted nuts and creamy oak. A big wine with a forward
approach, but shows some complexity and zesty, food-friendly elements, too. (87
points)
SRP: $29
Light purple color. Red and black plums on the nose,
along with lots of sweet spices (cola, chicory, pepper, ginger, anise).
Easy-drinking, medium tannins, medium-low acid, the fruit is juicy and velvety,
the black cherries and plums go down smoothly. But this wine is all about the
spice and non-fruit elements of fire pit, black pepper, loamy soil and black
licorice. Juicy and fruity but maintains some vibrancy. Great summer grilling
accompaniment. Aged in 33% new American oak. (86 points)
SRP: $30
Medium ruby color. Sweet and lively aromas, baked
plums, raspberry and strawberry jam, sweet violets, cinnamon toast, tart cherry
rhubarb pie. Chewy texture, velvety tannins, medium-low acid, the strawberry
and raspberry fruit tastes wild yet jammy, laced with notes of sweet cola,
birch beer, roasted chestnut, menthol and tobacco. Sweet baking spices and
earthy, leafy goodness lasts long on the finish. Chewy and rich but maintains
some freshness and interesting floral-earthy complexity. Zinfandel and Petite
Sirah. (87 points)
SRP: $65
Medium purple color. Juicy and rich aromas, plums,
black cherries, blueberry pie filling, mixed with notes of tobacco and bay
leaf, oregano, pepper and toasted oak. Full-bodied, firm tannins but fined
around the edges, moderate acid helps balance out the richness. Juicy black
cherries, dark currants, tart blueberries. Complex elements of smoke, tobacco,
oregano, sweet coffee, vanilla and dark chocolate. Could use at least three
years in the cellar, this is a dense yet contemplative wine. 68% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 11% Petite Verdot, 5% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc. (88
points)
SRP: $40
Medium purple color. Dark and rich aromas, the
blackberry, blueberry and currant fruit is jammy but showing some tartness,
backed up by sweet cedar, loam and coffee. Dusty tannic structure, medium acid,
some more tart elements to the blackberry and currant fruit, jammy but balanced
and crunchy. Notes of vanilla, cola, dusty soil, clay, eucalyptus and ginger
snap. More structure and depth than the entry-level stuff, but still
approachable and fun. Aged 22 months in French oak. (87 points)
SRP: $42
Medium purple color. Deep waves of fruit (black
cherries, red and black currants, blueberries), the fruit is rich and velvety,
notes of sweet black licorice, eucalyptus and dark roasted coffee.
Bold and fruity, rich and chewy with plenty of
tannic structure, medium-low acid. Love the deep, velvety black and blue fruit.
Significant mocha, toast and cedar, but it doesn’t overwhelm the other elements
of eucalyptus, pepper and sweet pipe tobacco. Long, full, yet leaves something
to the imagination. 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 5% Petite Verdot, 3%
Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. Aged for 33 months in a mix of French, American
and Hungarian oak, 35% new. (89 points)
SRP: $28
Boisterous purple color. A really jammy nose, like
blackberries, strawberries and blueberries all thrown together, mixed in with
notes of sweet cola, root beer and an interesting savory glaze note, like sweet
and sour plus black pepper sauces. Full-bodied and bold, good tannic structure
but the edges are all rounded out, medium-low acid. Jammy blackberries and
black cherries, some tart blueberries mixed in, complex sweet and savory
elements battle it out, cola, vanilla, cherry pie and sweet mocha with black
pepper and barbecue sauce. Finishes sweet and chewy. Interesting non-fruit
flavor elements to accent the gobs of dark fruit. Aged 20 months in 44% new
American oak. (87 points)
SRP: $48
Intensely dark purple color. Nose shows deep
blueberries, blackberries, boysenberry jam, a deep, sweet cola, violets and
potting soil… mocha, some savory barbecue glaze notes too. A big and burly wine
with solid, mouth-drying tannins, low acid and rich, jammy fruit. Blackberries,
boysenberries, cassis jam, but the fruit is laced with complex charcoal, cola,
toasted oak, vanilla, potting soil, coffee and black pepper notes. Despite its
weight and oomph, the wine has a lot to contemplate and unravel, and could show
more in the cellar. All Petite Sirah aged in 75% new American oak. (90 points)
SRP: $50
Deep purple color.
Deep, dark, yet full of life on the nose: black currants, blueberries, black
cherries, dark roast coffee, sweet clove, caramel and loamy soil. Full bodied
with a firm tannic structure, medium-low acid. Black currants, blackberries,
the fruit is rich and chewy. The wine is backed up by notes of smashed rocks,
black pepper, pencil lead, dark chocolate and dark roasted coffee, slight hint
of savory grilled steak. Deep, extracted, rich and toasty, this could use a few
years to unwind. Aged 20 months in mostly new French and American oak. (88
points)
