Monday, November 4, 2013

Tasting Report: A Slew of Southern Rhones

Sorry, no Chateauneuf-du-Pape here. But some of these red Rhone blends could give CdPs a run for their money. A good portion of this tasting report focuses on reds from 2010, a vintage that I find deserving of all the praise it’s been given by pretty much everyone. And the 2010s seem to be getting better and better.

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites
2010 Mas Carlot Costières-de-Nîmes Clairette de Bellegarde - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $12
A medium straw-yellow color. Quite rich on the nose, lots of honey, orange marmalade and pineapple, along with an aroma that reminds me of dried hay. Medium-bodied, a waxy mouthfeel and light acid. Creamy peach and golden apple fruit along with some honey and white flower notes. 100% Clairette. (86 points)
 
2011 Domaine André Brunel Côtes du Rhône Blanc “Domaine de la Becassonne” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $16
A rich yellow-golden color. Smells of apricot, spiced apple sauce, also some waxy, honeyed notes. Full-bodied, perhaps a bit thick, and it lacks the character that acid provides. Still, some tasty apricot, pineapple and honeycomb notes make this a fun drink. A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Clairette. (85 points)

Reds
2009 Santa Duc Selections Côtes du Rhône “Les Vieilles Vignes” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $15
Bright purple color. Aromas of red and black plums, which smell like they’ve been baked just a bit, and some dusty, peppery notes. The plum and black cherry fruit on the palate is rich and juicy, but not goopy, with solid grip to the tannins. Thick and creamy mouthfeel, balanced a little by the acid, but I’d prefer a bit more. Notes of black licorice, pepper and chestnut add a nice touch. Seems like a crowd-pleaser. The longer it was open, the better. (87 points)

If you like earthy Southern Rhone reds, check out Fondreche's 2010s.
2010 Domaine de Fondrèche Côtes du Ventoux “Persia” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Ventoux
SRP: $29
A dark cherry and auburn color. A burst of red and black berry fruit on the nose, some black olive, pepper and herbal notes as well. Fine, dusty tannins, lots of pure red and black currant fruit, along with a liberal dose of pepper, beef jerky and charcoal. But fresh acid keeps it all together. Another delicious, focused and age-worthy 2010 red from the Southern Rhone. 90% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. (89 points)

2010 Domaine de Fondrèche Côtes du Ventoux “Nadal” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Ventoux
SRP: $25
Earthy and funky on the nose, like a mix of dirt and wet leaves over top the black currant fruit. Grippy texture, a bit of bitterness to the tannins, but the acid comes in to keep it clean. The black cherry and currant fruit tastes crunchy and juicy, and the fruit is mixed with lots of olive, black pepper and soil. Another solid Cotes du Ventoux from Fondrèche and, like the other 2010s, it could benefit from decanting or time in the cellar. 45% Syrah, 45% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre. (89 points)

2010 Domaine de Fondrèche Côtes du Ventoux “il était une fois” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Ventoux
SRP: $50
Rich, ripe blackberries and currants on the nose, mixed in with some notes of peppered steak. The black and red berry fruit is bold but bright, and the tannins provide solid structure. Equally strong are the flavors of black pepper sauce, baking spices and sweet herbs. Quite complex but a bit primal right now. This could use a few years to mature and will probably evolve and drink well for a few presidential elections. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. (90 points)

2010 Château d'Or et de Gueules Costières-de-Nîmes “Les Cimels” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $15
Plummy aromas, kirsch, pepper and spiced coffee. Fine tannins and fresh acid make the wine feel like silk on the palate. Fresh red and black currant fruit, backed up by some cracked pepper, soy and earth tones. Spicy, delicious stuff that makes me crave roasted lamb. 40% Syrah, 40% Carignan and 20% Grenache. (88 points)

2010 Château d'Or et de Gueules Costières-de-Nîmes “Trassegum” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $22
More roasted meat and white pepper than the Les Cimels, still lots of that dark plum fruit. Seems like this needs time to show more complex aromas. Strong grip to the tannins, but there’s some acid to round it out. The plum and black currant fruit is loaded with green and black pepper, meat and dark roasted coffee. Another reason why I love 2010 Southern Rhone reds.  50% Syrah, 25% Carignan and 25% Mourvèdre. (89 points)

2010 Mas Carlot Costières-de-Nîmes “Les Enfants Terribles” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $16
Spiced coffee and pepper aromas accent the red berry fruit. Bright acid and silky tannins make this easy to drink. The plum, cherry and red currant tastes snappy and spicy. I really dig the olive and black pepper kick on the finish. Seems destined for drinking over the next two years or so, but this is clearly made of good stuff. A 50/50 blend of Mourvèdre and Syrah. (88 points)

2010 Mas Carlot Costières-de-Nîmes Cuvée “Tradition” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $13
Dark and complex aromas, the wild berries have smoky, caramel tones. On the palate, those gritty 2010 tannins run the show, and the acid takes a lesser role but still provides freshness. Dark plums, black currants and a bit of blueberry, mixed in with all sorts of pepper, earth and campfire smoke. The purity of fruit is matched by the intensity of the non-fruit aspects. A great example of what Costieres-de-Nimes can offer. I was surprised to see this bottle goes for $13 — it’s a serious wine that will evolve for at least a few years. 55% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 5% Mourvèdre. (90 points)
 
The oldest wine in the tasting seems to be just entering its stride.
2006 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas “Prestige des Hautes Garrigues” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas
SRP: $30
Sour cherries, dried cranberries on the nose, mixed in with lots of black pepper, beef drippings and green olives. Dry tannins, tangy acid, the sour cherries and red currants taste brisk and the spicy oak is blended in well. I’m enjoying the secondary flavors of green and black pepper, grilled meat and pickles. Long finish with notes of olive. Showing well now, but still plenty of time to go. Mostly Grenache with Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. (90 points)

2009 Santa Duc Selections Gigondas “Les Garancières” - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas
SRP: $29
Hesitant aromas on the first pour, and it took some time to open up and display the dark cherry, currant and plum, along with a dash of pepper and earth. Medium-grain, dry tannins provide structure, while medium acid keeps it fresh. The cherry and currant fruit is ripe and gushing with flavor, but matched with coffee, potpourri and toasty cedar notes. Wears its sunshine on its sleeve with its attractive fruit, but it’s full of Southern Rhone earth and spice tones. Seems like this wine needs a year or two (or more) to show its best. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the kick-ass daily wine blog Terroirist.

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