More Intriguing New Releases from Paso Robles

In September, I spent a few days exploring the winelands of Paso Robles, California, and came back with a renewed love of these wines and a deeper understanding of what makes them special. Diversity among grape varieties, blends and winemaking styles is on the rise in Paso, but Rhone and Bordeaux grapes (mostly red) dominate, and for good reason. Over and over again, these Paso wines show me richness of fruit combined with freshness and complex, non-fruit flavors.

Today’s report features three wines from Le Cuvier, whose wines blew me away when I tasted them in Paso Robles earlier this year. I jumped on the chance to taste a few more, and they were even better than I remembered. The skin-contact Viognier is exceptional, and the Grenache is one of the burliest things I’ve tasted all year.

Also included is an exceptional Roussanne from Alta Colina and a fascinating Aglianico from Giornata, which focuses on Italian grape varieties. Lastly, we visit a delicious Grenache-based red from The Farm Winery. Owned by Jim and Azmina Madesen, the wine is made in consultation with Azmina’s brother, Santiago Achaval, of renowned Mendoza powerhouse Achaval-Ferrer.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2013 Le Cuvíer Viognier Glenrose Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $59
Rich gold color. I’m loving the aromatics, olive oil, candle wax, almond, honeycomb, on top of mango, apricot jam and circus peanut candies. On the palate this has a rich and oily texture but actually some acid, so it helps balance things out nicely. Skin contact is evident in the mouthfeel, this drinks like a heavier orange wine, but stays fresh. Flavors of mango, apricot, orange peel, laced with complex elements of honeyed tea, spiced apple, almond cake, clove. Wow, this is so, so delicious, very complex, and certainly one of the most fascinating California Viogniers I’ve tasted this year. Lots of time ahead here. Aged more than three-and-a-half years in cask before bottling. (92 point)

2014 Le Cuvíer Grenache - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $59
Medium ruby color. Smells or rich, gushing cherries, strawberries, juicy plums, along with cola, sweet black licorice, menthol, pepper. On the palate, this is full-bodied and massive (17.3% alcohol!) with chewy tannins and low acidity, but somehow it all works for me. Tons of cherries, red apple peel, raspberry jam, the fruit is laced with rich earth, clay, fallen leaves, coffee grounds, red and black licorice, rose and violets, clove, cedar. So big and bold but complex as well, a brooding beast of a Grenache but so, so good. (91 points)

N.V. Le Cuvíer Pentimento - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $47
Dark and richly purple color. Smells jammy and rich with complex plum, roasted fig, blackberry jam, along with caramel, pie crust, coffee and fig cookies. On the palate this is full-bodied with medium tannins and medium-low acidity. Juicy and suave with sweet plums, figs, blueberry jam, mixed with coffee, cola, pepper, dark chocolate, cedar. Bold, rich, smooth, delicious. What a cool and unique blend, basically a blend of other finished wines. This is composed of 44% of last year’s Pentimento, with the rest coming from the 2014 Petite Verdot Kirk-Landry, 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Kirk-Landry, 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Conway and 2013 Malbec Kirk-Landry. (90 points)

2015 Alta Colina Roussanne Model Citizen - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $35
Rich golden color. Gorgeous aromatic display of apricot, yellow pears, cantaloupe, also lots of fresh aspects like clean laundry, baby’s breath, lilies, some almond. Full-bodied but surprising acidity, oily and waxy but balanced. Peaches, apricot, nectarine, the fruit is topped in baby’s breath, cut flower stems, sea salt, honeycomb, almond, salted caramel. Rich textural depth and lots of intense flavors but there’s a real sense of freshness in this wine, too, which I love. Aged in 25% new French oak for 16 months, no maloactic fermentation. (91 points)

One of the coolest uses of cork text I've seen: The Farm Winery
prints the names of the winery and vineyard workers on their corks!

2013 The Farm Winery Touchy-Feely - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District
SRP: $60
Deep ruby color. Gushes with aromas of sweet cherries, raspberry jam, and waves of cola, coffee, rose petals, black pepper, bold and hedonistic but lovely. Full-bodied (duh, 14.9%) but not heavy, the tannins have grip but feel suave and there is a surprising amount of acidity in this wine that makes it refreshing. Cherries, raspberries, dark plums, bold but fruit has some tartness to it. Notes of coffee, pepper, mocha, cola, clove and leather add complexity. Delicious, polished, really opens up with time so there’s no rush to drink this. From limestone soils, this is made from Grenache with 20% Syrah, aged in old French oak for 24 months. (92 points)

2015 Giornata Aglianico French Camp Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $30
Light purple color. Aromas of dark cherries and plum cake mix with coffee grounds, anise, sweet pipe tobacco, incense sticks and loamy soil. Suave on the palate but structure to the tannins and moderating acidity makes for a fleshy, smooth wine. Plummy with sweet black cherries and laced with cola, coffee, eucalyptus, loamy soil, incense sticks. Despite texture and depth, this is lively as well. Impressive Paso example of this grape! All Aglianico aged in 20% new French oak. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.