Wednesday, October 17, 2018

High Quality Bordeaux from the Edmond de Rothschild Portfolio

The Rothschild family has a long and storied history in Bordeaux, dating back to 1868, when James de Rothschild bought Chateau Lafite .

About a century later, descendant Edmond de Rothschild, then co-owner of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, wanted to purchase a Bordeaux property to try something new. So, in 1973, he took control of the derelict Chateau Clarke in Listrac-Médoc, and also bought Chateau Malmaison in Malmaison in Moulis-en- Médoc. Though in different appellations, the properties adjoin each other.

A decade later, Edmond’s son Benjamin de Rothschild snatched up the Right Bank estate Chateau des Lauret in Puisseguin Saint-Emilion. Together, these three estates comprise the French holdings of the Edmond de Rothschild branch, but the company also owns properties in South Africa, Spain, New Zealand and Argentina.

I recently attended a trade tasting sponsored by the Edmond de Rothschild group, featuring their three Bordeaux brands. I found a lot to love about these wines, especially the quality-to-price ratios in these wines. The new oak has been dialed back over the years, and the 2015s (a stellar vintage by almost any account) really shine.

My notes on the wines are below...




2011 Château Clarke - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Listrac-Médoc
$33
Nice nose of damp earth, mushroom, leaves, red pepper flakes, on top of red and black currants. Grip is nice and dry, medium acidity, with suave black cherries and currants. Structured but smooth and velvety with a noticeable oak signature, but some nice leather, leaves, anise and spiced tea as well. A 70/30 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from limestone/clay soils, aged 16 months in 2/3 new oak. (88 points)

2015 Château Clarke - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Listrac-Médoc
$43
A deep nose of juicy red and black currant fruit, so pretty, with deep floral tones, too. Young and grippy but fresh and vibrant as well. Juicy black cherries topped in leather, cocoa, clove, lovely earthy and floral tones. Elegant even this young, I’m really impressed with the vibrancy. The oak and extraction has been dialed down since the 2011 (when Michel Rolland was consulting), this is a lovely wine with time ahead. (90 points)


2011 Château Malmaison Baronne Nadine de Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc
$25
Super juicy on the nose with plums and cherries, lots of roses and violets, along with clove, wet earth and cedar. Suave, velvety, still built well with tannins but fresh as well. Currants and tangy plums along with violets, earth, clove, cedar and vanilla. An 80/20 blend of Merlot and Cabernet planted in limestone, clay and gravelly soils, aged 16 months in 1/3 new oak. (88 points)


2015 Château Malmaison Baronne Nadine de Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc
$33
Lovely aromas of plums, dark currants, rich but airy, with clove, earth, tobacco and deep floral tones. Pure and rich on the palate but focused and fresh, the balanced between the acidity and tannins is on point. Crisp red and black plums, the fruit is redder and fresher than the 2011. Complex violets, clove, tilled soil and tobacco. Pretty now, but this will age nicely. Insane value. (91 points)


2014 Château des Laurets - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Puisseguin-St. Émilion
$21
Juicy ripe black cherries and dark plums on the nose, with bell pepper, iron and scorched earth notes. Nice grip on the palate, tight and dry, with medium acidity. Crunchy dark cherry and currant fruit mixed with spiced tea, tilled soil and cedar. A bit tight and could use some time to open up, but nice for the price. 100% Merlot planted in limestone and clay soils, aged 14 months in 30% new oak. (87 points)


2015 Château les Laurets Baron Edmond De Rothchild - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Puisseguin-St. Émilion
$63
Deep aromatic display of dark cherries and currants, with violets, pepper and earth. Grippy and young on the palate, great concentration, moderating acidity, young but balanced nicely. Dark cherries, plums, currants, gorgeous, velvety fruit mixed with iron, pepper, violets, cocoa, grilled herbs. Young but beautiful. This cuvee is made from plots at the highest part of the vineyard, which are treated differently for this blend, which is still about 80/20 Merlot and Cabernet Franc, aged 16 months in 100% new barrels. (91 points)

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