Friday, November 22, 2019

The Exceptional Blaye Wines of Chateau Mondesir-Gazin

Marc Pasquet surveys the barrel room at Chateau Mondesir-Gazin
I had heard of Chateau Mondesir-Gazin's reputation, but I had not previously tasted any of Marc Pasquet’s wines before. But these wines were easily some of the best wines I tasted on a week-long trip to Bordeaux this summer.

The wines show wonderful balance and vibrancy. They have this long-aging, old school aesthetic, like what I imagine early 1980s Bordeaux wines tasted when they were young. But they’re also really delicious and full of beautiful fruit. The blend each year is almost always the same, about two-thirds Merlot with the rest Malbec.

Attracted to the terroir, Marc Pasquet purchased the estate in 1990. He transitioned the vineyards — planted in clay and limestone soils on slopes overlooking the Gironde River estuary — to organic farming. The close proximity to this large river moderates weather extremes like frost and hail.

Owner/winemaker Marc Pasquet is such a genuine dude. I had a great tasting and lunch with him, sharing stories and hearing about his passion, not just for his wines, but for wines from all over the world. He travels extensively and seems genuinely stoked about what other winemakers are doing, even though his own wines are quite traditional in their approach.

I highly recommend these wines, and a visit if you’re ever in the area.


2015 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Inviting and warm on the nose with cherries, blackberries, plums, with tobacco, cedar, violets. Great concentration on the palate but balanced so well, tannins are solid but not harsh, vibrant acidity. Tangy and juicy red and black cherries. Lots of woodsy, floral tones, earthy, violets, an underlying rocky, mineral presence. This has an old school, long-aging feel to it. Beautiful stuff. (92 points)


2012 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Suave red and black currants on the nose, deep and concentrated fruit with violets, leather, cocoa and anise. Serious grip on the palate with moderate acidity, black cherries and crunchy red currants. I get lots of menthol, leather, pine forest, black tea notes. And there’s a lot of graphite and mineral elements. This needs a lot of time but is really good stuff. (91 points)


2009 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
Deep and ripe on the nose, beautiful, concentrated black cherries, with violets, anise, chewing tobacco, minty-earthy tones. Solid grip still but the tannins have fined-down edges, medium acidity keeps it fresh. Tangy black currant and plum fruit mixes with earth, tobacco, violets, clove. Evolving so well, beautiful stuff, plenty of years ahead. One of my favorite wines of the trip. (93 points)


2005 Château Mondesir-Gazin - France, Bordeaux, Blaye
This is in a vibrant and lovely place. Nose shows red plums, red currant, with lots of savory tones (mushroom, mossy rocks, leaves) with leather and anise. But the wine is really alive and fresh – doesn’t smell tired at all. Serious grip still on the tannins with balanced acidity – this wine has a long time ahead. Red currants and cherries mix with complex notes of anise, pepper, leather. Balanced and lively, integrated well, and if stored properly a bottle of this should age well for another ten years. (93 points)






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