The coronavirus pandemic is causing havoc the world over. While tasting wines from Italy, Spain, the United States, I can’t help think of how all these places are being upended by this pandemic. I hope you all are staying safe, taking care of yourselves and each other, and also enjoying some good wine and food at home.
I’ve been trying to cook as much vegetables as I can during these past two weeks of lockdown, and I’ve found myself playing around with lots of Indian and Moroccan spices. Luckily, I had two Pinot Blancs from Alsace to sample that also work really well with the dishes I’ve been slinging. Alsace is where I first fell in love with wine, and it is vibrant, exciting, inexpensive wines like the two in this report that keep me coming back.
This report also includes two wines from Fournier, in Ribera del Duero, which was purchased by Gonzalez Byass in 2019.
And from the U.S. come several Oregon and Washington wines. I’ve been hurling praise at Applegate Valley’s Troon wines for years now. And while I tend to personally enjoy their whites more, these Tannat-based reds are crisp, crunchy and juicy in a way that’s more accessible than most Tannats that I’ve tasted.
Tamarack Cellars offers a whole lot of Washington red goodness for less than $30, and Owen Roe’s wines also make an appearance.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2017 Meyer-Fonné Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Alsace
SRP: $22
Medium yellow color. The nose has this waxy, honeyed aspect, contrasted with this airy, field of wildflower and clover element, on top of white peach and nectarine. Deep texture, lovely honeyed feel, but lively acidity keeps it moving forward. Apricot, nectarine and papaya fruit blend well with honeysuckle, verbena, and these underlying slate and mineral tones. Round but fresh, this should show some interesting characteristics with age. From granite soils in Katzenthal. (90 points)
2017 Emile Beyer Pinot Blanc Tradition - France, Alsace
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose bursts with peaches, green melon, but also spicy, floral notes of honeysuckle, mint and baby’s breath. Dry and fresh on the palate, this has a waxy, rich texture, but the acidity moderates it well. Kiwi, peach and mango fruit, whipped with honey, white tea, seashells and minerals. There’s a lot on offer here, and a lot of balance between depth and freshness. From clay and limestone soils in Eguisheim. (90 points)
2017 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco Riserva Benefizio - Italy, Tuscany, Pomino
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Nose of green apples, kiwi, a pleasant mash-up of tennis ball, perfume, flowers, honey and chalk dust. Deep texture on the palate, full-bodied (14.5%) but bright acidity keeps it fresh. Yellow plums, cantaloupe and lemon crème fruit mixes well with whipped butter, toasted nuts, a creamy but balanced wine with underlying flinty mineral tones. Fermented in 50% new French oak with lees aging for 10 months. For fans of richer, creamier style, this Chardonnay also sports freshness and liveliness, though. (89 points)
2016 Fournier Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of juicy raspberries, sweet red cherries and crunchy red plums, with roses, some anise. Suave and velvety on the palate with vibrant acidity and a balanced, fresh appeal, with juicy raspberries and strawberries. Notes of cocoa, rose petals, mint, espresso, there’s a lot going on here, but it’s accessible and lively, too. (88 points)
2014 Fournier Ribera del Duero Reserva - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Nose shows dark, deep blackberry, along with smoky charcoal, coffee, dark chocolate and anise. Full-bodied, solid grip on the tannins, medium acidity, it is concentrated but not too dense. Deep blueberry and cassis fruit mixes with graphite, mineral and charcoal, with accents of campfire, espresso, dark chocolate. Deep and worthy of cellar time, but it’s has some fun, fresh appeal, too. (90 points)
2017 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $65
2017 Emile Beyer Pinot Blanc Tradition - France, Alsace
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose bursts with peaches, green melon, but also spicy, floral notes of honeysuckle, mint and baby’s breath. Dry and fresh on the palate, this has a waxy, rich texture, but the acidity moderates it well. Kiwi, peach and mango fruit, whipped with honey, white tea, seashells and minerals. There’s a lot on offer here, and a lot of balance between depth and freshness. From clay and limestone soils in Eguisheim. (90 points)
2017 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco Riserva Benefizio - Italy, Tuscany, Pomino
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Nose of green apples, kiwi, a pleasant mash-up of tennis ball, perfume, flowers, honey and chalk dust. Deep texture on the palate, full-bodied (14.5%) but bright acidity keeps it fresh. Yellow plums, cantaloupe and lemon crème fruit mixes well with whipped butter, toasted nuts, a creamy but balanced wine with underlying flinty mineral tones. Fermented in 50% new French oak with lees aging for 10 months. For fans of richer, creamier style, this Chardonnay also sports freshness and liveliness, though. (89 points)
2016 Fournier Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of juicy raspberries, sweet red cherries and crunchy red plums, with roses, some anise. Suave and velvety on the palate with vibrant acidity and a balanced, fresh appeal, with juicy raspberries and strawberries. Notes of cocoa, rose petals, mint, espresso, there’s a lot going on here, but it’s accessible and lively, too. (88 points)
2014 Fournier Ribera del Duero Reserva - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Nose shows dark, deep blackberry, along with smoky charcoal, coffee, dark chocolate and anise. Full-bodied, solid grip on the tannins, medium acidity, it is concentrated but not too dense. Deep blueberry and cassis fruit mixes with graphite, mineral and charcoal, with accents of campfire, espresso, dark chocolate. Deep and worthy of cellar time, but it’s has some fun, fresh appeal, too. (90 points)
2017 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $65
Bright violet color. Such vibrant aromas, like chilled plums and black currants, laced with violets, clove, mesquite, leather, warm clay. Medium-bodied on the palate (13.7% alcohol), with bright, tangy acidity and velvety tannins. Juicy plums, raspberries and black cherries, tangy, concentrated fruit, mixed with complex mesquite, graphite, cocoa, violet petals, earth. Lovely, fresh, accessible, but this could improve significantly over the next few years. Gorgeous stuff. 53% Tannat, 47% Malbec, co-fermented. (92 points)
2017 Troon Vineyard Tannat Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Delightfully spicy on the nose, with paprika, pepper, clove, on top of some blackberry and tangy cassis fruit, with dried rose petals and earthy, tar notes. Medium/full-bodied, solid grip but no harsh edges on the tannins – and the acid sings. Dark cherries, blackberries, juicy, crunchy fruit, mixed with potting soil, paved road, graphite, anise and light roast coffee notes. Deep and dark but crunchy and alive as well, this should do well with four or five years of cellaring. (91 points)
2016 Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Medium purple color. Smells like black cherries, sweet blueberries, saucy plums, with smoky earth, barbecue sauce, clove, dark chocolate. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins, moderate acidity, a pleasantly chewy texture. Plummy, saucy cherry fruit, mixed with barbecue sauce, black pepper glaze, some coffee, cedar and clove. Fun and fresh but this shows a lot of complexity for the price. A kitchen sink blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Mourvedre, Grenache, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Counoise, aged in a mix of 40% new French, American and Hungarian oak. (88 points)
2017 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Deep, dark aromas that take some time to get going, but then it’s all about currants, plums, earth, clay, soy, clove – intriguing stuff. Full, plush, smooth tannins and fresh acidity meet for a well-balanced wine. Fresh currants and black cherries, laced with earth, pepper, violets, clove, soy and tobacco. Nuanced cocoa and cedar woven in well. Delicious now, but this could really use three or four years to show its best. Serious value here. All Cabernet Franc sourced from Weinbau, Ciel du Cheval and Tapteil Vineyards, aged in 30% new French oak. (90 points)
2017 Owen Roe Red Wine Yakima Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $28
Light purple color. Smells like sweet red currants, black cherries, spiced cranberry relish, with violets, black tea, sweet cocoa. Full but suave on the palate, this is smooth but mouth-filling, deep but has a fresh appeal, too. Currants and plums, topped in violets, tobacco, eucalyptus, graphite. Chewy, deep feel, luscious but shows vibrancy and freshness. 59% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, sourced from Red Willow, Union Gap and DuBrul Vineyards. (90 points)
2018 Owen Roe Sinister Hand - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $27
Light purple color. Nose of candied cherries, candied red apples, juicy, fruity, purple, with sweet tea, cola, some grilled herbs. Full but not heavy, soft/medium tannins, moderate acidity, this shows plenty of juicy red and purple fruits. I get notes of smoky cedar, cola, roses, cranberry relish. Notes of spiced tea, rose petals, barbecue sauce. Fun, early-drinking stuff that should go quickly at cookout parties. 55% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre, 9% Cinsault. (88 points)
2017 Troon Vineyard Tannat Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Delightfully spicy on the nose, with paprika, pepper, clove, on top of some blackberry and tangy cassis fruit, with dried rose petals and earthy, tar notes. Medium/full-bodied, solid grip but no harsh edges on the tannins – and the acid sings. Dark cherries, blackberries, juicy, crunchy fruit, mixed with potting soil, paved road, graphite, anise and light roast coffee notes. Deep and dark but crunchy and alive as well, this should do well with four or five years of cellaring. (91 points)
2016 Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Medium purple color. Smells like black cherries, sweet blueberries, saucy plums, with smoky earth, barbecue sauce, clove, dark chocolate. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins, moderate acidity, a pleasantly chewy texture. Plummy, saucy cherry fruit, mixed with barbecue sauce, black pepper glaze, some coffee, cedar and clove. Fun and fresh but this shows a lot of complexity for the price. A kitchen sink blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Mourvedre, Grenache, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Counoise, aged in a mix of 40% new French, American and Hungarian oak. (88 points)
2017 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $30
Vibrant purple color. Deep, dark aromas that take some time to get going, but then it’s all about currants, plums, earth, clay, soy, clove – intriguing stuff. Full, plush, smooth tannins and fresh acidity meet for a well-balanced wine. Fresh currants and black cherries, laced with earth, pepper, violets, clove, soy and tobacco. Nuanced cocoa and cedar woven in well. Delicious now, but this could really use three or four years to show its best. Serious value here. All Cabernet Franc sourced from Weinbau, Ciel du Cheval and Tapteil Vineyards, aged in 30% new French oak. (90 points)
2017 Owen Roe Red Wine Yakima Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $28
Light purple color. Smells like sweet red currants, black cherries, spiced cranberry relish, with violets, black tea, sweet cocoa. Full but suave on the palate, this is smooth but mouth-filling, deep but has a fresh appeal, too. Currants and plums, topped in violets, tobacco, eucalyptus, graphite. Chewy, deep feel, luscious but shows vibrancy and freshness. 59% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, sourced from Red Willow, Union Gap and DuBrul Vineyards. (90 points)
2018 Owen Roe Sinister Hand - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley
SRP: $27
Light purple color. Nose of candied cherries, candied red apples, juicy, fruity, purple, with sweet tea, cola, some grilled herbs. Full but not heavy, soft/medium tannins, moderate acidity, this shows plenty of juicy red and purple fruits. I get notes of smoky cedar, cola, roses, cranberry relish. Notes of spiced tea, rose petals, barbecue sauce. Fun, early-drinking stuff that should go quickly at cookout parties. 55% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre, 9% Cinsault. (88 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.
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