Sunday, December 8, 2024

Value and excitement from Argentina's Domaine Bousquet

Everything’s expensive these days. But that makes finding a value even more fun. Something you need or like that makes you go, “Wait – it’s only how much, now?”

Argentina has long been a respite for the value-seekers out there. From when I first fell for wine some 15 years or so ago until today, I’ve been able to find a lot of excitement from this diverse country, and for a very moderate cost.

Credit: Domaine Bousquet
One of the producers I revisit frequently is Domaine Bousquet. The winery has been making organic wine since 1997, based in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Their entry-level wines are widely available and perform high in their category, and their wide range of varietals offers a lot to enjoy. The classic high-elevation terroir of this region is evident across the spectrum, with the wines providing juicy fruit, tangy acidity, and complex nuances.

But it hasn’t been a rosy picture for winemakers these past few years, especially if your market is America. U.S. sales have been down in recent years, and were down almost 5% by volume last year alone. Yet, according to Nielsen data, organic wines are slightly up (a percent or so). And Bousquet sports the best-selling organic Malbec in its price range.

So, if you’re looking to explore more wines from Argentina, save some money, and support organic winemaking, you’ve come to the right place.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2023 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13
Light yellow color. The nose pops with white peaches, limes, cantaloupe, and crunchy green apples, with notes of honeysuckle and celery seed. The palate shows a nice depth of texture with vibrant acidity and a fruit salad of green apples, white peaches, papaya, and orange slices. Steely but creamy vibes, and some flinty minerals and honeycomb notes. Accessible but nice complexity, too. (88 points)

2022 Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay Cameleon - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $15
Deep yellow color. The aromas sport rich pear, pineapple, yellow apple, along with honey, almond skin, sea salt, yellow flowers, and chalk dust. The palate is precise but generous, with creamy texture and lip-smacking acidity. Flavors of pineapple, papaya, and green apples mix well with tones of white and yellow flowers, sea salt, honeycomb, almond butter, and popcorn. Delicious, nuanced, crowd-pleasing, and complex. (91 points)

2022 Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13
Deep purple color. Aromas of juicy black cherries, dark plums, sweet blueberries, with tones of violets, pepper, and barbecue jerky. Tangy acidity kicks off the palate with some suave tannins, and flavors of blueberries, black cherries, and plums. The fruit is bright and vibrant, and mixed nicely with tones of black pepper, violets, and nuances of oak and anise cookie. A lot of fun, with plenty of complexity and depth. (89 points)

2021 Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon Cameleon - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $20
Dark purple color. Nose shows saucy plums, tart currants, and a potpourri of black tea, earth, mocha, tobacco, tar, and white pepper. I get tangy acidity on the palate, with dusty tannins, and a fleshy, tangy mix of red and black currants and black cherry jam. Love the complex notes of tobacco, mint, oregano, clay, some bell pepper. The toffee and coffee nuances add complexity. This needs to be on a BTG list at a burger bistro ASAP! (91 points)

2022 Domaine Bousquet Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $13
Rich purple color. Aromas of mulled blackberries, black cherries, and dark plums, mixed with violet, potting soil, tobacco, with hints of graphite and leather. The palate is smooth and suave with chewy tannins and vibrant acidity. Tangy plums meet sweet blackberries and black cherries, and the fruit is mixed with cool notes of black tea, anise, violets, and earth. Fun, balanced, delightful, this is a crowd-pleaser that brings a lot of depth to the table. (90 points)

Thursday, November 7, 2024

California New Releases: Cabs and Chards

Folks don’t seem to agree on much these days. There’s a lot of division out there. But I like to think the vast majority of wine-consuming Americans can agree on this – California Cabernet and Chardonnay are great. They’re classics for a reason.

And this week I’m focusing on some new releases from well-known California producers that deliver. Most of the wines are widely-available, and there’s a lot of value in here as well. And, these days, that matters a lot.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 La Crema Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. A dark but vibrant and spicy aromatic display, with black currants and plums, mixed with anise, tobacco, black pepper, some graphite, and iron, dried violets as well. The palate sports smooth tannins and vibrant acidity, with pleasantly ripe currants, blackberries, and blueberries. The fruit blends nicely with elements of graphite, minerals, mocha, tobacco, and cedar nuances. A rich but elegant blend of fruit from Alexander Mountain and Valley, Dry Creek, and Bennet Valleys. A beauty for the upcoming colder weather, as it’s drinking great now. (91 points)

2021 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $85
Bold purple color. Exotic aromas of plum sauce, red and black currants, fig paste, with cool tones of eucalyptus, mint, chewing tobacco, along with some stony earth and mulch. The palate shows suave tannins, moderate acidity, and juicy, tangy fruits (blueberries, black cherries, figs). The fruit is accented by tones of mint, fallen leaves, black pepper, eucalyptus, and some earthy-stony tones. Classic vibes, lots to love, this is fun but complex and a great way to dive into Stag’s Leap Cabernet. (92 points)

2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $65
Vibrant purple color. Beautifully deep and complex aromatic display – I get roasted figs, dark plums, black cherries and currants, so tangy and vibrant, along with clay and loam, clove, pepper, creosote, black tea. The palate shows structured but fine-grained tannins, met nicely with bright acidity for a refreshing and balanced appeal. The black and red currant fruit, blueberries, and plum fruit shows depth and tanginess. All sorts of non-fruit nuances are packed in here (charcoal, minerals, cedar, tobacco, mint, black pepper, black tea) but will need time in the cellar to show their full potential. Love the tangy, mineral and earth-laden finish. This is beautiful now but needs some serious TLC (time laying in cellar) to express itself fully. At the price, and given the aging potential, this is a crazy value. Includes some Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this wine spends18 months in 65% new French oak. (94 points)

2023 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $25
Deep yellow with a nose of juicy peaches, green and yellow apples, nectarines, backed up by notes of hay, honeycomb, along with a cool mix of cornbread and almond butter, with a hint of minerals. Pleasantly creamy with fresh acidity and a yummy mix of yellow apples, bruised pears, white peaches, and orange creamsicle. I get notes of bread crumbs, whipped honey, and some refreshing mineral tones as well. (88 points)

2023 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay Russian River Ranches - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $31
Rich yellow color. The nose shows a rich mix of white peaches, yellow apple, orange peel, along with scents of white tea, honey, some clove and mint. The palate is plush and bold but shows moderating acidity, with a delicious fruit salad of nectarine, yellow apples, papaya, white peach. The fruit is accented with notes of lemon pie with graham cracker crust, almond skin, mixed with welcomed nuances of chalk dust, minerals, and slate. Yummy, fresh, sporting solid complexity. (91 points)

Friday, October 25, 2024

Fortified wines for Autumnal times

I am so stoked about Autumn! Here in the Mid-Atlantic the leaves are peaking and I’ve been waking up early on cool, crisp mornings whenever possible to go birdwatching, hiking, climbing, really anything outside. It’s all wonderful to me this time of year.

October in Shenandoah National Park.

Halloween is just around the corner as well, and sugary sweets and spooky fun abounds. Don’t worry – I’m not writing about pairing wine with Halloween candy. No thanks. But, this week I want to highlight some frightfully delicious fortified wines that would make a great adult treat for this time of year.

Tawny Port is such a fun style, from the younger, more accessible – but highly delicious – offerings, to the richer, nuttier, more savory styles of longer-aged wines, there’s a lot of unique flavors and variations to explore. To start, I think it works best to pick a producer and see if their style aligns with your palate.

Dow’s is one of my favorite Port houses, ever since I bought two 2003 Vintage Ports upon release – the first time I spent more than $80 on a bottle of wine. (They’re still both sleeping, of course, and will for years to come.) While their Vintage Ports are well-known and heralded, the Tawnies really rock, too. And this week I have three to choose from. 

And I can’t forget Sherry. But let’s focus on a dry wine, shall we? The Tio Pepe brand from Gonzalez-Byass offers several of these Spanish delicacies, but their dry Palomino Fino is bright, zesty, and makes for such pleasant sipping. Bring out the bleu cheese and Marcona almonds for this one. 

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

Dow’s 10-Year Tawny Port Portugal, Douro, Porto 
SRP: $45
Rich, deep ruby/tawny color. The nose exudes roasted figs, sweet dates, candied pecans, along with toffee, notes of honeyed tea, and some clove and light roast coffee. The palate is rich and suave with a mouthfeel moderated by the acidity, and flavors of yellow raisins, plum compote, and dried mango. Sweet but vibrant tannins with nuances of black tea, salted caramel, milk chocolate, and toffee. So smooth and pleasant. (91 points)

Dow’s 20-Year Tawny Port Portugal, Douro, Porto 
SRP: $78
Beautiful amber color. The nose smells of warm rooibos tea, caramel, apple pie, along with clove, roasted nuts, toffee, and hints of earth and clay. The palate is plush and sweet with a lovely depth of texture and fresh acidity to keep things balanced out nicely. Flavors of fig paste, apple butter, candied orange peels, along with nuances of toffee, dark chocolate, and some cigar box. Suave, deep, complex, yet refreshing and so fun to sip. Lovely stuff. (93 points)

Dow’s 30-Year Tawny PortPortugal, Douro, Porto 
SRP: $175
Deep auburn color. The nose is exquisite, as the nuances and depth are dialed up even more. I get dates, figs, candied apple, orange peel, along with toasted nuts, vanilla bean, cinnamon crumb cake, and salted caramel – lovely! The palate is suave, rich, and deep yet expressive and vibrant, and balanced wonderfully. Baked figs, dates, and yellow raisins for days. The fruit is backed up with honey, black tea, salted caramel, cinnamon crumb cake, crème brulee, and even some cool black tea, leather, and cigar shop tones. Harmonious, expressive, and simply beautiful. A sip of this lasts for a really long time. This on a cold night with some loved ones – a perfect idea. (95 points)

N.V. Gonzalez-Byass Palomino Fino Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Tío Pepe (Muy Seco-Extra Dry) Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Aromas of oyster shell, salt brine, lemon, quince, papaya, with elements of corn husk, candle wax, and almond skin – a lot to sniff, ponder, and enjoy. The palate shows racy acidity with a briny, spicy appeal and a creamy, waxy texture. Flavors of lemon, orange peel, and green apple, and the fruit is laced with tones of almond, honey, oyster shells, crushed limestone, and sea salt. Fun, bright, dry, bracing, but shows delightful texture and complexity, and finishes with tones of green herbs and white tea. Delicious, versatile, would be good at pretty much any time and for any occasion. And a great value. (90 points)

Wednesday, October 2, 2024

Digging into Paso Roble's Broken Earth

I’ve only visited California’s Paso Robles wine country once, and toured a lot in a few days, and I have the fondest memories. I often wish to return to visit new wineries, relive the love, and score more waves on the nearby Central Coast.

The diverse soils, the hills, the microclimates, it all fascinated me, and helped explain why certain Paso wines just hit differently. And the wine folks who live there are scrappy, tough, really smart, and willing to experiment. All sorts of vines find their way in this varied terrain, and I’ve found lots of joy in Mediterranean white wines, Spanish reds, Italian blends, and other unexpected varietal wines.

Recently, Broken Earth rekindled that Paso spark for me. Broken Earth was established in 1973, and celebrates the heritage of the Continental Vineyard property, which was originally named Rancho Tierra Rejada, or “land of worked earth.” They have a large portfolio with what seems like a bunch of interesting wines. I was happy to taste through the trio of their “CV” wines – which are their allocated, higher-end wines made only in certain vintages.

These wines allow winemaker Chris Cameron to shine. An Australian by birth, he’s worked harvests for four decades and first showed up in Paso in 2007. And he’s got a lot of great fruit with which to work his blending prowess.

Also of note: they’re also a California Certified Sustainable Vineyard, and seem to take stewardship seriously, so that’s always a great thing. And as a big owl nerd, I’m a fan of any vineyard that utilizes owl boxes!

Check out these wines below, which I received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Broken Earth Winery Studium Red CV Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $80
Deep purple color. The nose is so inviting with black currant, fig paste, black cherries, accented with sage, tobacco, mint, along with deep stony, graphite, coffee grounds, and cocoa nibs. The palate is structured but silky with crisp acidity, smooth tannins, and deep flavors of mulled cherries and plum fruit. I get a lot of spicy herbs, black pepper, and barbecue sauce, with dried violets and hints of clove. Complex, saucy, savory, and a lot underlying minerals, earth, and graphite. A decant is a good idea if drinking now, but this will also age very well. (92 points)

2019 Broken Earth Winery Cabernet Franc CV Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $80
Bright purple color. A deep yet integrated nose of red and black currants and cherries, mixed with plenty of roasted red pepper, bay leaf, tobacco, black pepper, and grilled steaks – really cool stuff to sniff. The palate is full and suave and shows a solid core of tannins along with fresh acidity. I get black currants and saucy cherries, dark but crunchy fruit, and a host of fascinating savory tones: mesquite, sage, anise, black pepper, leather, incense sticks – there’s so much to parse through. Expressive with air but this will age wonderfully, and I’d like to revisit in like eight years. Excellent Paso Cab Franc! (93 points)

2019 Broken Earth Winery Cabernet Sauvignon CV Reserve - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $80
Dark purple color. The nose is a dense display of currant, plum cake, and roasted figs, but it opens to show savory spices, dried violets, potting soil, tar, tobacco, and some dark chocolate shavings. On the palate, this is rich and full but shows nice grip, balanced with lively acidity. The black cherry, wild blueberry, and plum compote flavors blend really well with the graphite, charcoal, spicy herbs, and earthy tones. Suave, full, but deep and vibrant. This really needs some time in the cellar to unfold, but even now it tells a great story. (93 points)

Sunday, September 22, 2024

Exploring wine, birds, and heritage with Meyye Wines

A male Ana's hummingbird I saw in the Superstitions, Arizona
I love exploring California wineries, especially when something new pops up and catches my attention. That was the case immediately with Meyye Wines. And continuing from last week’s post, I wanted to share three wines from this California producer.

The winery pays homage to Rob Campbell’s heritage as a member of the Coastal Miwok/Southern Pomo tribe. Rob started Meyye Wines just two years ago, after working at Story Winery in the Sierra Foothills. The winey focuses on four releases, each from a different area of Northern California.

Meyye is the Coast Miwok word for bird, and as an avid birder, I’m a huge fan of the labels and idea behind each wine. “I’m intentionally using the Coast Miwok language since the language was considered ‘officially dead’ in the past, but my people are making a concerted effort to restore it,” Campbell says.

As you can tell, I value the motivation behind a wine, the story of the people involved, and their aesthetic approach and goals. But the most important factor is the quality of the wine in the glass. And in that realm, Meyye is legit.

Each of the releases I’ve tried blends together accessibility in youth with serious aging potential. You can get a sneak peak of how these wines will perform in the cellar with their 2016 Zin. Crisp, crunchy, integrated, savory, silky, but still so much life and verve for years to come.

If you like California wines with nuance, intrigue, and a great story, Meyye is certainly worth exploring. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Meyye Wines Chardonnay Kuluppis - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $55
Light yellow color. A fascinating mix of deep and bright aromas (golden apples and pears, lemon zest and orange peel) with plenty of ocean breeze, sea salt, and floral perfume. Delightful creaminess on the palate, with focused acidity, it combines for a balanced and racy wine, with flavors of lemon curd, orange peel, and kiwi. A sense of rushing stream minerals pervades, with talc, seashells, and those richer notes of honey and almond round out the finish. Beautiful stuff to drink now or hold for four or five years. From the Sangiacomo Family’s Kiser Ranch Vineyard, fermented in 50/50 stainless steel and oak, 100% malolactic fermentation and aging in oak. Kuluppis is the Coast Miwok word for the Ana’s hummingbird. (93 points)

2019 Meyye Wines Sokootok - USA, California, Sierra Foothills
SRP: $60
Rich light purple color. Saucy and spicy on the nose, with raspberry jam, tangy plums, blackberry, plenty of roasted red pepper, anise, tobacco, incense, and clove – just a fruity, savory display. Full and ripe on the palate, with smooth tannins and vibrant acidity. Blackberry, cherry jam, roasted figs, the fruit combines so well with the flavors of sauteed portobello mushrooms, black pepper, tobacco, accented with some coffee and dark chocolate. I’d love to see this age over the next five years or so. A delightful, stylish, savory blend of Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Counoise, Zinfandel, from selected sites in Amador County, this is an exceptional wine to treat like a Chateauneuf-du-Pape and open on a cold night with some savory food and good friends. Sokootok is the Coast Miwok word for the California Quail. (93 points)

2016 Meyye Wines Zinfandel Palachchak - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, California Shenandoah Valley
SRP: $50
Rich purple color. The nose shows a potpourri of savory and floral tones over deep fruit (black cherry, saucy plums, some spiced cranberry relish) with notes of violets, leather, spiced black tea, with some cool barbecue, black pepper, and paprika tones. The palate is suave and juicy with dusty tannins and lively acidity, keeping this wine forward but fresh. Spiced cranberry sauce with mulled black cherries and currants, the fruit is mixed well with complex tones of herbal tea, dried rose petals. There are some cool graphite and mineral tones as well; I love the complexity and subtleties that are coming out as this wine ages. Palachchak is the Coast Miwok word for the California Acorn Woodpecker, one of my favorite birds. 90% Zinfandel and 10% Syrah, 24 months in 40% new American & French oak barrels. (92 points)

Monday, September 16, 2024

Welcoming Autumn with California Pinot Noir

It’s almost officially Autumn and I am stoked. I’ve been spending a ton of time outdoors lately – climbing, hiking, birdwatching, doing some landscape photography – and the cooler, crisp mornings are like cold water to a parched palate for me.

I’m not a pumpkin spice person (no judgment), but I am waiting on a cooler weekend to make my first soup of the season. And for those light sweater weather days, after a hike or a day climbing, I will certainly be opening some California Pinot Noir.

I can't wait for days like this. Shenandoah National Park, October 2023

Yes, they’re good any time of year, but I love combing Autumnal weather and foods with some exquisite California Pinots – that mix of ripe fruit, with all the earth and floral tones I love. For me, I need a Pinot with some zip to it, and I tend toward the more red-fruited wines with savory tones.

This week, I want to highlight two such Pinots from Sonoma-Cutrer and Meyye Wines. I’m a big fan of Sonoma-Cutrer’s line of Chards, but this Winemaker Release Les Plus Haut cuvee really shows how they make Pinot Noir sing.

Meyye Wines is a thrilling new producer to watch. After making wine at Story Winery in the Sierra Foothills, Rom Campbell kicked off this project in 2022, making four wines from select sites across California. Their Pinot is delicious and unique, with a long life of development ahead. The bird nerd in me is excited about their labels, each of which honors a native bird of the region in its Native American Miwok name. The label art is fantastic, and the wines back it up with poise and beauty.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir Les Plus Haut - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Juicy ruby color. Deep but vibrant aromas of black cherries, red plums, raspberries, with a host of floral, earthy, and spice nuances: rose petals, white pepper, tobacco, some anise, and black tea. This is a refreshing and juicy wine on the palate with smooth tannins and crisp acidity. Ripe but nuanced fruit, with raspberry jam, juicy plums, mixed with all sorts of cool notes like rose hips, rooibos tea, and some earthy tones. Lots of depth and complexity but also just a ton of fun and deliciousness. From the highest blocks of the estate vineyards Owsley Ranch and Vine Hill. (92 points)

2021 Meyye Wines Pinot Noir 'Omay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. An airy, inviting, yet complex aromatic display of rhubarb, rose petals, and tobacco, over ripe cherries, strawberries, tangy red currants, with some earth and leathery tones to boot. The palate is ripe but tangy with dusty tannins making for a moderately-framed wine that’s zippy and bright, but shows juicy, tangy fruit (raspberries, red currants, strawberries). The non-fruit complexities add a lot to enjoy: white pepper, warm clay, dusty earth, minerals, oregano, tobacco, leather, anise. The balance and freshness is crystalline, and I love how this wine is developing over time. Very interested to see where it goes in another three to five years. A beautiful iteration of one of my favorite California Pinot vineyards. (93 points)

Thursday, September 5, 2024

Discovering Mount Langi Ghiran’s exciting Australian wines

I’ve been visiting wine regions and writing about wine for about 15 years now. In that time, I’ve had come upon countless discoveries. Those “Aha!” moments when I stumble across some producer who’s been working hard in their own unique site for many years, expressing wines that entice and reward the searcher. And I love how many new (to me) discoveries are still out there. Like Mount Langi Ghiran from Australia’s the remote Grampians region.

Started in 1969 by the Fratins, the estate is located in this cooler area of Western Victoria. They tend to 170 acres of estate vines, all own-rooted, planted in granite sands and red clay loam. The north-south valley helps protect their wines from the heat extremes, and the cold Southern Ocean winds get funneled in, keeping things lively and bright.

Credit: Mount Langi Ghiran

Chief Winemaker Adam Louder grew up just a few miles from the estate, and kicked off his career there in the cellar during high school before doing stints in Napa, Bordeaux, and other regions. He must really have his home turf dialed in, because these wines speak so clearly and honestly.

As a climber, I’m very familiar and attracted to cliff edges. And these Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge wines do give me a shot of that verve and intrigue that warrants the name.

If served these three Mount Langi Ghiran wines double-blind, I like to think I would walk away with these three thoughts: 1) These wines are undoubtedly Australian. 2) They have a verve, depth, and vibrancy that indicates something special is going on here. 3) I would have guessed their prices to be doubled.

This was my first time with this producer, but it won’t be my last, as I’ll seek out these wines in the future. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Billi Billi - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $16
Medium purple color. The nose has a juicy, dark blend of plums, blackberries, and blueberries, topped in notes of barbecue sauce, grilled steak with cracked black pepper, and notes of earth and dried violets. The palate shows a cool mix of tangy blue and juicy red fruits, mixed with complex notes of black tea, barbecue sauce, violets, pepper, and oregano. Juicy but fresh and balanced. So fun and spicy, this is a delicious summer grill out kind of Shiraz that’ll please most anyone. (90 points)

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $28
Deep purple color. A rich but inviting aromatic display of roasted digs, plum cakes, blueberry jam, with black tea, violets, anise, and sandalwood. The palate is full but suave with integrated tannins and tangy acidity. The fruit is pure and vibrant (wild blueberries, red and black currants, roasted figs), and blends really well with these spicy tones of black pepper, paprika, and anise, with earth, dark chocolate shavings, and graphite. Delicious now but I’d love to see how this ages. (92 points)

2023 Mount Langi Ghiran Riesling Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. The nose is fresh and bright with lemon but also juicier tones of pineapple and honey, with some green herbs and mint, some talc and chalk too. The palate sports creamy depth and tingly acidity with flavors of lemon, papaya, and juicy white peach. There’s a good blend of saline, quinine, daisies, basil, all sorts of fresh, floral, pleasantly herbal tones. Very pretty, versatile, and shows a lot of complexity. Aussie Rieslings like this here are just wonderful, and the price point is great. From 45-year-old own-rooted vines. (91 points)

Monday, August 26, 2024

Merry Edwards continues to shine with 2022s

I’ve been a huge fan of the Sonoma Pinots from Merry Edwards. For many years, I’ve visited the winery, cellared some wines, received their releases, and written about them.

And in such dynamic and uncertain times, I find it a respite to return to their wines and be reminded of the timeless style and quality.

Since Merry Edwards retired and her mentor Heidi Von Der Mehden picked up the winemaking role in 2020, the wines have continued on a streak of no misses. And the 2022 vintage is delightful. The wines seem smooth, concentrated, but vibrant.

The Pinots shine across the board, and you can pretty much take your pick. But it’s a total delight to parse through the intricacies of the different vineyards.

These Pinot pros, who also boast their classic and masterful Sauv Blanc and a delicious Olivet Lane Chardonnay, are now crushing it with this new Anderson Valley Chardonnay as well. Sourced from sites around the valley, it gives balanced but deep Chard-lovers something to contemplate, and I think it’s a very good addition to their portfolio, especially for the price. Hat’s off!

Of course, each person will have their unique favorite, but you can’t can go wrong with anything in this lineup. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot NoirUSA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $65
Ripe purple color. Fun and inviting nose of saucy cherries, strawberry rhubarb pie, along with roses, roasted chestnut, coffee grounds, some pine, and oak. Acidity is great and the chewy tannins provide structure to the palate while the fresh fruit shines through clearly (raspberries, strawberry jam, black cherries). Nuances of rhubarb, dark chocolate, and sweet baking spices add complexity. Suave, nuanced, but also highly delicious and accessible. A very nice, crowd-pleasing intro to their style. Aged 10 months in 53% new French oak. (92 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Georganne - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70

Light purple color. The aromas are rich and vibrant with complex currants, plums, and strawberries, along with sage, earth, tobacco, some violet petals, and nuanced black pepper and soy tones. On the palate, this sports fine-edged tannins that give it just the right amount of grip, and the acidity is zesty and alive. Red plums, pomegranate, black cherries, and juicy strawberry, the fruit is pure and delicious and backed up with notes of mint, earth, clove, black pepper, black olive. Nuances of oak and dried flowers. This is vibrant and refined but shows a lot of aging potential as well. I love this darker, saucier vineyard, but the wine is super fresh, too. Aged 10 months in 52% new oak. (94 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Deep ruby color. The nose pops with spicy, herbal tones (white pepper, clove, tobacco, oregano) over top of juicy raspberries and black cherries, summer plums, along with notes of cola, rhubarb, and sarsaparilla. Suave tannins on the palate, a chewy but lively vibe with fresh acidity, and delicious fruit (strawberries, black cherries, cranberry relish). There are all sorts of floral and savory nuances to coax out as well: violets and roses, spiced black tea, clay soil, with hints of cola and oak. This one will reward the patient in the cellar, but the youthful deliciousness is undeniable. Aged 10 months in 58% new French oak. (94 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Dach Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $75
Vibrant ruby color. Deep but expressive aromas – I get raspberry jam, black cherries, dark plums, along with clove, dark soil, black tea, and eucalyptus. The palate has a smooth but structured feel, balanced acidity, and juicy cherry, strawberry, and red currant fruit. I’m getting a cool mix of non-fruit elements: a lot of spicy Italian herbs, coffee grounds, and some earthy-mineral tones. Loving the dark, spicy, complexity here, and look forward to seeing how this integrates over the next five to ten years. This recent Anderson Valley addition to their portfolio is worth checking out. Aged 10 months in 54% new French oak. (93 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $75
Light purple color. Gushing aromatic display of ripe red cherries and raspberries, with roses and violets, rhubarb, all sorts of white pepper, black tea, mint, and menthol complexities. Dusty tannins and spritely acidity make for a structured and balanced wine on the palate, with crunchy red cherries and strawberries, sweet red and black plums. The depth and integration of the savory components is really great, with these leather, earth, tobacco, paprika, pine, and mint elements all competing for attention yet marbled together wonderfully. Beautiful and youthful but, again, this will gain all sorts of nuance over the next decade, etc. The first vineyard-designated Pinot of theirs, and the hits keep coming. (94 points)

2022 Merry Edwards Chardonnay - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $45

Rich yellow color. The nose is juicy and complex with white peaches, yellow apples, apricot, along with saline, almond, graham cracker, some yellow flowers and honey. The palate shows a- ripe and plush texture, buttressed by crisp acidity, and lots a delicious fruit salad of yellow apples, pears, apricot, and orange peel. The honey, graham cracker, and nougat notes are subtle and woven in well with the minerals, mountain stream, crushed chalk, and honey elements. Rich but pure, ripe but racy, the flavors are firing and it never feels heavy. I get this elegant mineral and pistachio note on the finish. Well done, and a really solid value.Aged 10 months in 31% new French oak. (93 points)

Wednesday, August 7, 2024

California value from Line 39

I love highlighting value-driven wines from around the world. But I’ve also found that most of the most dynamic, interesting, inexpensive wines come from places other than the United States.

Over the past 15 years or so that I’ve been closely following the wine world, I’ve been convinced a lot of regions and styles could rightfully hold the title of best value wines – South African Rhone blends, Roussillon reds, Portuguese blends of indigenous white grapes, Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, etc. But California? Nope.

So, this week I wanted to highlight two fun, Summer-friendly wines from California that deliver. Line 39 is one of those rare, widely-available brands that delivers some balance and complexity along with the value. The wines are made by Alyssa Reynolds, who oversees production of a range of organic wines. Cool, crisp, fresh, and flavorful these two wines I tried seem solid for Summer of Fall outdoor gatherings. If you’re looking for some accessible, entry-level wines that deliver and can offer pleasure for newbs and nerds alike, I think these are worth a try.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2023 Line 39 Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California
SRP: $15
Pale lemon color. Aromas of guava and white peach, with lemon zest, ruby red grapefruit, and tones of yellow flowers, mint, and celery seed. The palate is punchy and crisp with yellow apples, white peach, and kiwi, backed up by fun elements of chalk dust, celery seed, freshly-cut mint, and some mineral essence. Crisp, balanced, a lot to offer for the price. (88 points)

2023 Line 39 Rosé - USA, California
SRP: $15
Deep pink color. Ripe and vibrant on the nose with red apple peel, raspberry, floral potpourri, and some honeyed green tea. The palate pops with ripe flavors, moderate acidity, showing cranberry sauce, red cherry, and watermelon. There are some fun spicy herbal and rhubarb tones to accent the crushed sweet tarts and honey. Fun and tasty and shows some depth for the price point and wide availability. Made from Zinfandel. (88 points)

Friday, July 26, 2024

California wines for the Olympics

Paris in April, setting up for the games.
The Summer Olympics kicked off today in France and I am stoked. My family and I look forward to cheering on the athletes during gymnastics, swimming, and – since my daughter and I both follow and love it – climbing.

But I also look forward to watching the best of the best at other events, discovering and following new-to-me sports and the experts who compete in them. I appreciate excellence in all its forms.

I apply that similar attitude to wine, as I’m always looking for new producers, regions, grapes, and getting excited about all sorts of different styles.

In the Spring, my family spent a few days in Paris and saw the preparation for the games underway. We enjoyed all the food, culture, and views, and talked about how we would watch the Olympics and try to recognize all the places we had visited.

So, to celebrate the start of the games, I’m highlighting some American wines because, well, I’m American. But I’m also a Francophile, so I decided to highlight some California wines with something of an Old World, French inspiration. They’re pure California goodness, but some could also make great ringers in blind tastings of their French counterparts.

Cormorant Cellars has delivered some unique wines since they kicked off in 2018. This Sonoma-based producer makes an amazing lees-aged Sauvignon Blanc that I can’t recommend enough, but I was happy to taste through some new-to-me wines for this report. Winemaker Charlie Gilmore is clearly skilled and has some great talent and inspiration. Fans of Mediterranean Vermentino be alert – there’s something really cool here. And Beaujolais fans should really check out their Gamay.

Three Sticks makes phenomenal Chards and Pinots from Sonoma, and the wines in this report speak for themselves. This producer was founded in 2002 by Bill Price and Prema Kerollis, and they own and farm estate vineyards in Sonoma County. The wines are precise, thrilling, age-worthy, and should be on your radar if you like nuanced Sonoma Pinot.

I also have a few voluptuous but balanced Chardonnays from Juggernaut and Crossbarn that would really hit the spot during this late Summer timeframe.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Gap's Pinnacle Gap's Crown Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $95
Dark ruby color. The nose opens to show a well-arranged display of red plums, black cherries, raspberry, strawberry, with these deeper tones of violets, charcoal, toffee, some earth and coffee grounds tones. The palate combines grippy but fine-grained tannins, zesty acidity, with a core of fresh but vibrant raspberries, black cherries, and plums. All sorts of nuances here, with graphite, dusty earth, black tea, tobacco, sage. So much going on here, and I’d love to bury a few of these for five to eight years plus. A beautiful interpretation of this grape and site. (95 points)

2021 Three Sticks Pinot Noir One Sky Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
SRP: $85
Deep ruby color. Wow, what a beautiful nose, with pretty strawberry, raspberries, with spice, herbal, and earthy tones (tobacco, dried rose petals, tilled earth, clay, white pepper). Air coaxes out all sorts of exciting nuanced. Juicy and suave on the palate with dusty tannins and lively acidity that keeps it fresh. Flavors of red plums and currants, tangy strawberries and raspberries, and the fruit is backed up with all sorts of earth, paprika, rhubarb, clay, and white pepper. Nuanced, pretty, spicy, complex, elegant, with a long life ahead of it. (93 points)

2023 Cormorant Cellars Vermentino - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado County
SRP: $24
Pale lemon color. A pleasantly salty aroma, with lemon, quince, ruby red grapefruit, backed up with scents of basil, limestone dust, and chalk. On the palate this shows delicious yellow pears, lemon zest, pineapple, and green apple sliced, mixed with ocean spray, minerals, shells, white flowers. Crisp and punchy, juicy but balanced, this is an awesome value and a fascinating iteration of this grape. (91 points)

2023 Cormorant Cellars Gamay Noir Zabala Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Seco
SRP: $27
Pale ruby color. Aromas of tart cranberries, juicy strawberries, raspberries, tossed with cool tones of rose petals, tobacco, sage, yet stays airy and bright. The palate shows crisp, lip-smacking acidity with a juicy frame and pleasantly dusty tannins. Loving the fruit – cranberry relish, raspberries, strawberry-rhubarb pie. There are a lot of interesting non-fruit elements to enjoy here as well: clay, dried violets, black pepper, tobacco, clove. So fun and fresh but complex and savory as well and even has a Morgon-esque mineral and graphite element on the finish. (92 points)

2021 CrossBarn (Paul Hobbs) Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Bright and inviting on the nose with chalky, flinty notes, nettle, white and yellow flowers, over top of quince, yellow apples, and some almond and shaved ginger. Smooth and plush on the palate with lively acidity and a balanced frame. Lemons, yellow pears, green apples, the fruit is topped in minerals, seashells, chalk dust, with almond skin, cinnamon, and honeycomb. Juicy but fresh, with a tangy, complex finish. (90 points)

2022 Juggernaut Wine Company Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $20
Bright yellow color. The aromas pop with white peach, kiwi, bruised yellow apple, mixed with honeyed white tea, peanut brittle, with saline and some shells. Racy and tangy on the palate, a surprising oceanic briskness, matched with depth of texture. White peaches, lemon curd, yellow apples, the fruit blends well with tones of ocean spray, limestone, honeyed tea, and some basil, flinty tones. This has a lot of complexity and vibrancy for a wine at this price point. (90 points)

Sunday, July 14, 2024

Value and cellar-worthy treats from Mendoza

Mendoza, Argentina is huge. And there’s a ton of diversity in terms of soil, climate, aspect. And then there’s the wide range of winegrowing methods, grapes, and styles of winemakers. It’s all a lot, so this week I’m breaking down wine from three producers worth checking out.

I’ve been a big fan of Trapiche, since their entry-level Malbecs interested me as a 20-something. The value and consistency were there, but they make a wide range of wines and styles. I’m tasting two of their Chards today, the widely-available Oak Cask wine and the high-end Terroir Series Finca Las Piedras, the latter of which is a stunner, a great candidate to throw in a Chardonnay blind tasting, or one to lay down for a few years.

Mascota Vineyards, a Valle de Uco producer that also makes a delightful Pinot Noir, comes out swinging with their Unanime Chardonnay, which offers value and a lot of depth and complexity.

Credit: Pelleriti Priore
Moving on to the reds, I was excited to taste new-to-me producer. They kicked off a new venture, Pelleriti Priore, in 2023 but founders Marcelo Pelleriti and Miguel Priore have been working together on Marcelo Pelleriti wines since 2009. These two wines are exception, deep, vibrant reds from the Valle de Uco, where they’ve clearly found some unique terroir. They’re worthy of a great cut of meat, time in the cellar, and sharing with great friends. If you’re looking for something exceptional from Argentina at a very reasonable price, check these out.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2023 Trapiche Chardonnay Oak Cask - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $10
Rich yellow color. The nose pops with ripe apricot, dried pineapple, yellow apple, infused with notes of honey, floral breeze, some honeysuckle, along with almond skin and some bright minerals. The palate is tangy and inviting with broad texture and vibrant acidity, along with flavors of ruby red grapefruit, white peach, and green apples. Notes of flinty minerals, basil, white pepper, and crushed seashells add complexity. A dynamic and great value Chardonnay for sure. (89 points)

2022 Trapiche Chardonnay Terroir Series Finca Las Piedras - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $53
Light yellow color. The nose pops with white peach, ripe golden pears, mixed with complex tones of almond, hazelnut, vanilla bean, and these brighter elements of chalk and limestone dust. Deep but racy on the palate, plump but well-balanced, with flavors of green and yellow apples, white peach, mixed with almond, hay, and honeyed white tea nuances. Vibrant and complex with interesting essences of minerals, chalk dust, and lime juice running down a limestone cliff. Rich, crisp, complex, a lot going on here. From a cool single vineyard in the Los Arboles subregion, this seems like a special Chardonnay site expressed clearly. (93 points)

2023 Mascota Vineyards Chardonnay Unánime - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Ripe yellow with a nose of richer elements like pear butter, almond brittle, and graham cracker, with bright tones of saline and chalk, and papaya drizzled with lime. The palate sports rich texture and crisp acidity, providing lovely balance. Flavors of white peach, yellow pear, and apricot abound, complemented by refined tones of white and yellow flowers, chalk dust, almond skin, and hazelnut. Rich but zesty, a lot of crowd-pleasing qualities combined with balance and poise. (91 points)

2021 Marcelo Pelleriti Malbec Signature - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $28
Bright purple color. A pleasantly smoky, earthy vibe with fig paste, black cherries, black currants, along with complex tones of spicy herbs, black pepper, graphite, minerals, and anise. The palate sports fresh acidity and a full body with moderate tannins and flavors of red and black currants and plums. All sorts of pepper, anise, leather, sage, earth, graphite, and minerals abound. Savory, precise, exciting, but this will take some years to show its best. (93 points)

2022 Marcelo Pelleriti Cabernet Franc Signature - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $28
Deep but vibrant purple color with aromas of smoky earth, sage, black pepper, and violets, over black cherries, plum sauce, and currants – lively but deep. The palate has firm grip with suave edges and vibrant acidity, making for a concentrated but balanced Cab Franc. An expressive fruit display of tangy black cherries, red and black currants, backed up by all sorts of complex savory and earthy tones (violet petals, black pepper, roasted red pepper, anise, herbal tea). This is expressive already but seems destined to spend a few years growing in the cellar. (93 points)

Monday, July 1, 2024

American wines to beat the heat

I hope you’re all enjoying the Summer so far. It’s been a hot and humid mess here in the Mid-Atlantic, and I’m doing more hibernating than usual.

With more of the same on the way, I’ve been enjoying some bright and crisp wines to share with friends and family of late. And with the Fourth of July coming up, this is always a great time of year to highlight some excellent American wines that would be good all Summer long.

Perfect summer wines from Troon.
To start things off, I have some wines from Troon, a biodynamic, envelope-pushing, and just downright fun producer that makes a wide range of offerings from the Applegate Valley in the south of the state. For this piece, I have three wines that I would gleefully crack open for guests this Fourth. We’ve got a lees-aged Grenache Blanc (adding all sorts of texture to this zippy grape), a most crushable red made in a Beaujolais style, and a fascinating rosé.

From California, I have a Mediterranean-style crusher from Paso Robles, and an excellent rosé from Three Sticks that I think would impress fans of higher-end, deeper, complex pinks.

Whatever you’re opening and enjoying, I wish you and yours a very happy Summer, and a safe and pleasant Fourth of July.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Troon Vineyard Grenache Blanc Extended Lees Aging - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Bright lemon color. A fresh and inviting aromatic display of green apples, white peach, and kiwi, along with almond skin, saltine cracker, and flinty minerals. Racy and taut on the palate but this has an incredibly deep texture, with this harmony between waxy and oceanic elements. Green apple, papaya, white peach, the fruit is mixed with nuanced tones of oyster shell, white pepper, and some green herbs and savory tones that need air to come out. A nerd’s wine but one that a casual fan would likely also find delicious. This spends 17 months in neutral French oak. (93 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Ascendant Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $40
Pale copper color. Complex and inviting on the nose, with red apple peel, white cherries, wild raspberries, topped in dandelion greens, honeysuckle, and sea breeze. The palate is punchy and juicy but racy with the acidity, making for a lip-smacking and balanced pink. Watermelon, red and white cherries, the ripe and tangy fruit blends well with nuances of mint, crushed shells, mountain stream, basil, and white pepper. A breezy, delicious rosé from Troon that should age well. 38% Cinsault, 33% Mourvèdre, 11% Grenache, 10% Counoise, 8% Carignan. (92 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Vibrant ruby color. A bright aromatic display of strawberries, cranberries, and wild raspberries, with spiced herbal tea, rose hips, and rhubarb. On the palate, this is crushable and bright with a brisk and pleasant appeal. Flavors of tart cranberry relish and red apple peel with some deeper cherry fruit, and a cool mix of spicy herbs, white pepper, rose petals, and dusty earth. Fun and fresh but can’t deny the balance and complexity. A great summer sipper that will win over a lot of fans at the barbecue, I wager. A blend of Cinsault and Grenache. (90 points)

2021 Paso Verde White Wine - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Credit: Paso Verde
SRP: $25
Light yellow color with a slight spritz. Fresh and bright on the nose, with limes, white peaches, white and yellow flowers, with some salty-chalky vibes. On the palate, this is zippy and fun with bright acidity but some nice textural depth. Bright green apples, with limes, papaya, mixed in with some nice white flowers, dandelion, and some chalk dust and minerals. Crushable and fun but complex and balanced, too. Paso has such variety, that there’s always some cool iteration of an Old World style here, and this blend of Grenache Blanc, Verdelho, Vermentino, and Picpoul is a lot of fun. (90 points)

2023 Three Sticks Castenada Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $45
Pretty light strawberry color. The nose is super fresh and spritely, with crushed shells, talc, floral perfume, daisies, over tangy strawberries, white cherries, and crunchy red apples. The palate has this wonderful depth of texture, rich but vibrant with crisp acidity. Flavors of papaya, white cherry, watermelon, and red apples mix wonderfully with floral, mint, talc, limestone, and white tea elements. Lots of minerals and herbal nuances – very impressive depth and complexity. All estate grown Pinot and Chardonnay. (92 points)

Wednesday, June 19, 2024

Kicking off Summer with Scharffenberger

This little guy is stoked for Summer.
Happy Summer Solstice! Though it unofficially started a few weeks ago, I hope your Summer is off to a great start.

I’ve been spending a lot of time out rock climbing, hiking, and looking for Summer mushrooms to forage of late. It’s getting hotter and more humid all the time, so I haven’t been spending as much time thinking about wine, especially reds. (Stay hydrated, folks!)

It seems like the world is in a state of much flux these days, so I appreciate even more those lovely things which pretty much stay the same. Like the quality of sparkling wine from California powerhouse Scharffenberger.

I first tasted one of these wines probably 15 years ago now, and I was instantly a fan. This Anderson Valley Mendocino producer dates back to before my time, in 1981, when founder John Scharffenberger set his claim to making California sparkling wine in the Champagne method, with a goal to make the best wine possible. It took off. In 2004, they became part of the Roederer collection, bringing the best of Mendocino sparkling wine under the same umbrella.

In 2018 Jeffy Jindra took over as winemaker, the third in the winery’s history. And their streak of producing classic, crisp, complex iterations of Champagne method sparkling wine continues unabated.

Recently, I tasted through two of their new releases, and was delighted to find them just as delicious and exciting as I remember. If you’re looking for a wine to have for pool parties, cookouts, Fourth of July gatherings, one or both of these wines would fit the bill perfectly.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Scharffenberger Brut Excellence - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $24
Light gold color. The nose shows a delightful mix of deep yellow apples, bright orange peel, candied pineapple, with yellow flowers, chalk dust, notes of almond skin and minerals. The acidity is precise but the palate shows a lot of richness, with delicious fruit (white peach, cantaloupe, lime zest, yellow apple). Deep but bright with chalk-infused, mineral, oceanic influences that bounce off the richer honeyed and almond tones. So pretty and a great value. (91 points)

N.V. Scharffenberger Brut Rose Excellence - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $30
Light watermelon color. The aromas pop with chalky, flinty vibes with rose hips and petals along with raspberries, white cherries, and watermelon. Some fun floral perfume tones as well. The palate is racy and crunchy with fine bubbles and some lovely textural depth. Flavors of white cherries, raspberries, and watermelon rind, backed up by complex notes of chalk, minerals, white flowers, honeysuckle, and some green herbs. Fresh and fun but lots of complexity and nicely balanced. (92 points)

Friday, June 7, 2024

Finding a Sonoma treasure - Peterson Winery

Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley is a beautiful place. I’ve travelled through a few times and tasted many wines from this region, and found that the diversity of microclimates, styles, and grape varieties offers so much to explore.

I’m not sure how I missed Peterson Winery over the years, since they have been making wines for some three decades, but I’m very happy to have found them. A small producer with some 6,000 cases a year, they make a wide range of wines for being a relatively small producer. Fred Peterson moved to Bradford Mountain on Dry Creek Valley in 1983 to develop a vineyard and build his home. That long dedication to a place and mission is evident in the current wines.

Their winery was based off Lytton Springs Road for years, but moved onto Dry Creek Road in 2005, and Fred’s son Jamie took over winemaker duties in 2006. They farm their estate vineyards and source wines from other long-term sustainable relationships with others growers in Dry Creek and from Tollini Family Vineyard in Mendocino’s Redwood Valley – another gem of a region and a place where the wine quality exceeds the average wine lover’s knowledge of the place.

Digging into these for the first time, I love their vintage-looking labels and aesthetic. And the wines deliver a similar sense of nostalgia, making me wish I was around in Sonoma in the 1980s, with thoughts of Dry Creek vines, dark fruit, lots of savory and earthy tones. Nothing is unnecessarily polished so as to remove the character, allowing the uniqueness and authenticity to shine through. After tasting and writing my notes, I saw a mantra “no soulless” wines on their website, and that actually struck me as honest.
 

If you’re a fan of old-school California producers, especially if you’re a fan of Zinfandel, you’d do well to check out some of these wines. With Summer grilling season entering full swing, I would highly recommend some of these reds with whatever you’re keen to cook up.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Peterson Winery Barbera Tollini Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $24
Vibrant purple color. The nose is juicy and fun with ripe plums and black cherries, backed up by notes of roasted red pepper, violets, some earthy and dusty tones, and black pepper. On the palate, the vibrant acid on this is clear and welcomed, and the wine shows fine tannins and plenty of ripe but tangy black cherry and plum fruit. I get notes of spiced tea, loamy earth, some Italian seasonings and black pepper. These seems like a great grill-out wine, maybe even with a slight chill. Really fun but balanced and complex as well, and a solid value. (89 points)

2019 Peterson Winery Zero Manipulation Red Tollini Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $24
Bold purple color. The nose exudes an interesting mix of black cherries and currants, laced with all sorts of cool floral, herbal, and spice tones (rose petals, anise, grilled pepper-rubbed steak, some tobacco and eucalyptus. In the mouth, this has a grippy, dark, spicy, but nuanced mouthfeel with fresh acidity. Dark plums and blackberry fruit leads the way, supported by a host of interesting nuances: barbecue sauce, roasted red pepper, black olives in brine, black pepper, rose potpourri. A screw-capped beauty, this is showing a lot but I think for this style, I’d even prefer to age it a few years and let it integrate more and those savory elements evolve. Carignan with Petite Sirah and Syrah. (90 points)

2018 Peterson Winery Zinfandel - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $28
Medium purple color. The nose has a lot of floral potpourri, earth, and spice, over tip of tangy red cherries, strawberry jam, and red and black currants. The palate is super zippy and crushable but some nice dusty tannins and lively acidity, making for a fun but nuanced wine. Cherries and tangy red currants mix with flavors of black pepper, pepperoni, red clay and scorched earth, with notes of dried flowers and black tea. A blend from different Dry Creek vineyards and includes Petite Sirah, Carignane, and Grenache. Aged 25 months in a mix of new and used American and Hungarian oak. (90 points)

2019 Peterson Winery Zinfandel Bernier Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $34
Medium ruby color. The nose pops with spicy, fun, red-fruited goodness (raspberries, cherries, strawberries), along with tones of lavender, black pepper, tobacco, and eucalyptus. The palate is plush and juicy with dusty tannins and tangy acidity. A fun appeal but complex, with juicy red cherry, strawberry jam, and tangy red currants. Complexities of tobacco, menthol, mint, dried violets, some loamy earth. It’s fun and fresh but shows a lot of nuance and interesting savory flourishes. Drinking great now! Aged 22 months in old oak. (91 points)

2019 Peterson Winery Zinfandel Bradford Mountain Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $42
Dark purple color. The aromas are deep and concentrated but have a lot to show as well. Needs some air, but then the dark plum, currant, and blueberry fruit comes out, along with notes of cardamom, paprika, sage, coffee, and black tea. The palate shows a suave and savory wine with smooth, chewy tannins, and moderating acidity. Saucy and juicy with black cherries, raspberry jam, and black cherry fountain soda, with complex notes of lavender, earth, leather, tar, and coffee grounds. Delightful stuff that I’d love to revisit in another three or four years. (92 points)

Wednesday, May 22, 2024

Chilean value abounds with Natura

Credit: Natura Wines
If you’re looking for some quality and value from Chile, the label Natura has a lot to offer.

This Chilean lineup is owned by Italian powerhouse Banfi and produced by Emiliana Organic Vineyards. So, they’re able to source a lot of good quality grapes and take advantage of the economies of scale.

Made from all organic grapes, Natura wines are sourced from vineyards in appellations like Casablanca, Colchagua, and Rapel Valleys. While sourcing all these grapes and making all these wines must be logistically complex, the varietal wines, and their label and aesthetic, are pleasantly simple in the best way for the consumer. The grape varieties or style are right there, with screw caps, and the wines are fun, fresh, and accessible. However, the quality is legit across-the-board, making these a great value and an easy purchase for parties and patio sipping.

In addition to the wines I tasted (Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon), the lineup is rounded out by the classic Chilean staples Carmenere and Malbec, along with Chardonnay and Merlot.

In addition to the easy purchase price at a time when everything seems ridiculously expensive, you can also feel good about these wines. In addition to the organic grapes, Banfi has partnered with 1% for the Planet and donates 1% of the profits of these wines to help increase regenerative organic farming in the U.S. Win-win-win.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Emiliana Sauvignon Blanc Natura - Chile, Central Valley
SRP: $15
Light straw color. Lively and spritely on the nose with green apples, kiwi, along with flinty-saline vibes, and tones of dandelion, white pepper, and some celery seed and daisies. Zesty and fun on the palate with a light frame and fresh acid, with flavors of crunchy green pears, kiwi, and cantaloupe. Notes of dried pineapple, white and yellow flowers, and welcomed tones of white pepper and sliced bell pepper. Finishes with some peach nectar and mint. Fun, crowd-pleasing stuff. (87 points)

2023 Emiliana Rosé Natura - Chile, Central Valley
SRP: $15
Pale copper color. Aromas invite all sorts of white flowers, dandelion, perfume, over red apple peel and watermelon. Crisp and refreshing on the palate with plush texture and zippy acidity, with flavors of strawberries and red apples. Nuances of white pepper, dandelion, honeysuckle, and mint add complexity. Lively, punchy, and lots of flavor and depth for a great price. A blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. (88 points)

2022 Emiliana Pinot Noir Natura - Chile, Central Valley
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Bright strawberry and cherry aromas, with come cranberry relish, cola, rhubarb, and roses. The palate has refreshingly bright acid on a frame of soft tannins. Crunchy cranberry and red apples, fresh strawberries, with a spritely blend of non-fruit notes: dried rose petals, rhubarb, with herbal tea and hints of white pepper and some clay/earthy elements. An accessible, vibrant style, but well-balanced and fun flavor and complexity for the price. (88 points)

2022 Emiliana Cabernet Sauvignon Natura - Chile, Central Valley
SRP: $15
Light purple color. The nose pops with cranberries, red and black currants, with notes of menthol, sage, spiced tea, and anise. The palate shows smooth tannins classic Chilean crisp acidity. A fun and crunchy appeal but nice depth and texture, with a blend of red and black currants and cherries. Notes of spiced tea, tobacco, some black pepper, and some earthy and graphite elements. Spicy and floral with a lot of complexity. (89 points)