Welcoming Autumn with California Pinot Noir

It’s almost officially Autumn and I am stoked. I’ve been spending a ton of time outdoors lately – climbing, hiking, birdwatching, doing some landscape photography – and the cooler, crisp mornings are like cold water to a parched palate for me.

I’m not a pumpkin spice person (no judgment), but I am waiting on a cooler weekend to make my first soup of the season. And for those light sweater weather days, after a hike or a day climbing, I will certainly be opening some California Pinot Noir.

I can't wait for days like this. Shenandoah National Park, October 2023

Yes, they’re good any time of year, but I love combing Autumnal weather and foods with some exquisite California Pinots – that mix of ripe fruit, with all the earth and floral tones I love. For me, I need a Pinot with some zip to it, and I tend toward the more red-fruited wines with savory tones.

This week, I want to highlight two such Pinots from Sonoma-Cutrer and Meyye Wines. I’m a big fan of Sonoma-Cutrer’s line of Chards, but this Winemaker Release Les Plus Haut cuvee really shows how they make Pinot Noir sing.

Meyye Wines is a thrilling new producer to watch. After making wine at Story Winery in the Sierra Foothills, Rom Campbell kicked off this project in 2022, making four wines from select sites across California. Their Pinot is delicious and unique, with a long life of development ahead. The bird nerd in me is excited about their labels, each of which honors a native bird of the region in its Native American Miwok name. The label art is fantastic, and the wines back it up with poise and beauty.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir Les Plus Haut - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Juicy ruby color. Deep but vibrant aromas of black cherries, red plums, raspberries, with a host of floral, earthy, and spice nuances: rose petals, white pepper, tobacco, some anise, and black tea. This is a refreshing and juicy wine on the palate with smooth tannins and crisp acidity. Ripe but nuanced fruit, with raspberry jam, juicy plums, mixed with all sorts of cool notes like rose hips, rooibos tea, and some earthy tones. Lots of depth and complexity but also just a ton of fun and deliciousness. From the highest blocks of the estate vineyards Owsley Ranch and Vine Hill. (92 points)

2021 Meyye Wines Pinot Noir 'Omay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Petaluma Gap

SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. An airy, inviting, yet complex aromatic display of rhubarb, rose petals, and tobacco, over ripe cherries, strawberries, tangy red currants, with some earth and leathery tones to boot. The palate is ripe but tangy with dusty tannins making for a moderately-framed wine that’s zippy and bright, but shows juicy, tangy fruit (raspberries, red currants, strawberries). The non-fruit complexities add a lot to enjoy: white pepper, warm clay, dusty earth, minerals, oregano, tobacco, leather, anise. The balance and freshness is crystalline, and I love how this wine is developing over time. Very interested to see where it goes in another three to five years. A beautiful iteration of one of my favorite California Pinot vineyards. (93 points)

Discovering Mount Langi Ghiran’s exciting Australian wines

I’ve been visiting wine regions and writing about wine for about 15 years now. In that time, I’ve had come upon countless discoveries. Those “Aha!” moments when I stumble across some producer who’s been working hard in their own unique site for many years, expressing wines that entice and reward the searcher. And I love how many new (to me) discoveries are still out there. Like Mount Langi Ghiran from Australia’s the remote Grampians region.

Started in 1969 by the Fratins, the estate is located in this cooler area of Western Victoria. They tend to 170 acres of estate vines, all own-rooted, planted in granite sands and red clay loam. The north-south valley helps protect their wines from the heat extremes, and the cold Southern Ocean winds get funneled in, keeping things lively and bright.

Credit: Mount Langi Ghiran

Chief Winemaker Adam Louder grew up just a few miles from the estate, and kicked off his career there in the cellar during high school before doing stints in Napa, Bordeaux, and other regions. He must really have his home turf dialed in, because these wines speak so clearly and honestly.

As a climber, I’m very familiar and attracted to cliff edges. And these Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge wines do give me a shot of that verve and intrigue that warrants the name.

If served these three Mount Langi Ghiran wines double-blind, I like to think I would walk away with these three thoughts: 1) These wines are undoubtedly Australian. 2) They have a verve, depth, and vibrancy that indicates something special is going on here. 3) I would have guessed their prices to be doubled.

This was my first time with this producer, but it won’t be my last, as I’ll seek out these wines in the future. These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Billi Billi - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $16
Medium purple color. The nose has a juicy, dark blend of plums, blackberries, and blueberries, topped in notes of barbecue sauce, grilled steak with cracked black pepper, and notes of earth and dried violets. The palate shows a cool mix of tangy blue and juicy red fruits, mixed with complex notes of black tea, barbecue sauce, violets, pepper, and oregano. Juicy but fresh and balanced. So fun and spicy, this is a delicious summer grill out kind of Shiraz that’ll please most anyone. (90 points)

2021 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians

SRP: $28
Deep purple color. A rich but inviting aromatic display of roasted digs, plum cakes, blueberry jam, with black tea, violets, anise, and sandalwood. The palate is full but suave with integrated tannins and tangy acidity. The fruit is pure and vibrant (wild blueberries, red and black currants, roasted figs), and blends really well with these spicy tones of black pepper, paprika, and anise, with earth, dark chocolate shavings, and graphite. Delicious now but I’d love to see how this ages. (92 points)

2023 Mount Langi Ghiran Riesling Cliff Edge - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Grampians
SRP: $25
Medium yellow color. The nose is fresh and bright with lemon but also juicier tones of pineapple and honey, with some green herbs and mint, some talc and chalk too. The palate sports creamy depth and tingly acidity with flavors of lemon, papaya, and juicy white peach. There’s a good blend of saline, quinine, daisies, basil, all sorts of fresh, floral, pleasantly herbal tones. Very pretty, versatile, and shows a lot of complexity. Aussie Rieslings like this here are just wonderful, and the price point is great. From 45-year-old own-rooted vines. (91 points)