Smith-Madrone excels with 2021 Chardonnay

In times of some tumult, I turn to familiar joys. Hikes at my local park, visits with my owl friends in the woods, spending time with family and friends, and revisiting wines that have never let me down.

Credit: Matthew Denny

For me, Spring Mountain’s Smith-Madrone is one of the most reliable producers in California wine. I’m of the opinion they make one of, if not the, best Rieslings in California – a crisp, complex, racy, and age-worthy white I’ve enjoyed many times. And their Cab:  another stunner and friend of the patient cellar-owner, somehow flies just low enough under the radar as to remain a relative screaming bargain in the Napa Cab category.

But my favorite is their Chardonnay. It’s uniquely crisp and mineral-driven, while showing the bountiful fruit and depth of their mountain vineyard terroir. And the skill and experience of duo Stu and Charlie Smith shines in the 2021 vintage. It’s worth every penny, delicious right now, but will surely reward those who cellar it.

Let me know what you think if you’ve tried a Smith-Madrone wine recently. And, if the answer is “I never have” – you may want to reconsider.

This wine was received as a sample and tasted sighted.

2021 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

SRP: $45
Pretty yellow color. Excellent aromatic display of white peaches, lemon-lime, green apples, with sea salt, chalk dust, hints of hay and yellow flowers, and notes of honey, almond skin, and hazelnut. The palate sports such precision and lively acidity, balanced wonderfully with this creamy concentration of texture. Flavors of crunchy yellow apples, white peaches, and limes, matched by an infusion of minerals, chalk, and sea salt, with notes of hay, white and yellow flowers, hazelnut, and white pepper. I wrote “mineral city” and underlined it. Lovely in its youth, but this will age very nicely, too. (94 points)

Troon continues to excite with new 2023 vintage

Oregon’s Troon is always up to some cool, nerdy stuff. I’ve been a big fan of this producer (based in Southern Oregon’s unique Applegate Valley) for years, and they’re still surprising me. From meaty, peppery Syrahs, to crisp iterations of Vermentino (which may be some of my favorite in the U.S.), to fun outings like carbonic wines and Piquettes, you’d be hard pressed not to find something you like.

If you’re looking for an introduction into this biodynamic producer’s portfolio, a great place to start would be with their Druid’s wines. In 2023, they produced three of (a red, white, and rosé). These blends, inspired by the Rhone Valley and Provence, offer a value-driven taste of Applegate Valley personality. Here in the estate vineyards, the diverse Kubli Bench soil, microclimate, and winemaking style combine for wines that are fresh, relatively low in alcohol, and packed with unique spices and textures.

I also have their new vintages of their Vermentino and Syrah, two grapes with which Troon excels.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2023 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Bursting aromatic display of saline, chalk dust, oyster shell, along with green apples, white peaches, and limes, topped in some complex floral tones. The palate sports a racy frame with pleasant creaminess and a zippy, mineral infusion. A choice fruit salad (papaya, green apples, and white peaches, drizzled in lime), blended with nuances of oyster shells, chalk dust, breezy floral meadows. Hints of nutshell and honey linger on the finish. A beautiful blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Vermentino, and Roussanne. (91 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Druid's Pink - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright copper color. The nose sports an enticing mix of white peaches, lemons, red apples, with a cool mix of spiced white tea, mint, and slate-mineral vines. On the palate, this sports a delightful mix of spiced cranberry sauce, watermelon, raspberries, and white cherries, on a frame of crisp acidity and pleasantly creamy texture. Notes of mint, white flowers, chalk dust, and white pepper add complexity. Lovely, vibrant, complex rose. A classic blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, and Counoise. (90 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. The aromas show juicy plums, raspberries, cherries, even some pomegranate, all of it super fresh and inviting, with tones of rose hips, tobacco, and some mineral/earthy vibes. The palate has dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, yet lots of depth, with a pleasant and crushable vibe. Crunchy cherries, red plums, raspberries, the fruit is backed up by tones of dusty earth, pepper, roses, leather, all woven in so nicely. Love the freshness and unique flavors and vibe. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan. (91 points)

2023 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Pale lemon color. Bursting with fresh aromas on the nose, like kiwi, lemons, grapefruit, and crunchy green apples, with floral perfume, mint, some tropical tea as well. The palate is bright and brisk but shows lovely depth of texture, with flavors of kiwi, papaya, lime. Accents of limestone, seashells, white tea, honey, and almond skin blend so well together. Fresh, airy, bright, but complex – a lovely iteration of this grape from folks who know what they’re doing with it. (92 points)

2022 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Bright purple color. The nose shows a deep but bright mix of red plums, cherries, and raspberries, along with a host of spicy, herbal, and floral tones (pepper, violets, roses, sage). The palate shows suave tannins, crisp acidity, and a tangy core of black cherries, raspberries, and plums. I get a lot of black pepper, rose petals, tobacco, and there’s a deep sense of stony minerality, earth, and vibrant flower gardens. This will be a delight for quite a while in the cellar as well. (92 points)

Delicious, value-driven Ruby Port for Valentine's Day

Happy February. January felt like a lot, generally, and congrats if you’ve done dry January or generally tried to make improvements in your lives and the lives of others.

If you celebrate Valentine’s Day, or you’re looking for something to treat yourself in these cold days, I’ve got a wine this week that would be a great choice.

I’m talking about Port. And not the kind that costs a ton and you have to age for decades – the entry level, crushable, value-driven Ruby Port. Sandeman is a classic producer (dating back to 1790) of these traditional Portuguese fortified wines and they craft a range of classic styles with unique flair. They recently released their reliably delicious Ruby Port with a new canister and packaging (a cooperation with Lisbon-based street artist OzeArv) that could make for a nice gift for the wine lover in your life.

Wishing you all the best during this month of February!

This wine was received as a sample and tasted sighted.

N.V. Sandeman Porto Founder's Reserve Ruby Port - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple/violet color. Deep, warm, inviting nose of baked cherry pie, sweet plums, and blackberries, mixed with tones of roasted chestnut, anise, and coffee. It has the classic Ruby plush texture, and shows smooth tannins, integrated sweetness, and fresh acidity. Flavors of rich plums and black cherries blend well with nuances of anise, Christmas cookie, coffee, roasted nuts, and some subtle earth. Rich and plush but shows freshness as well – would be a great crowd-pleaser or entry into Port, but has complexity and depth as well. (89 points)

Delightful Chardonnay and Pinot from Ram’s Gate Winery

It’s impossible for me to think about California without worry and empathy for those affected by the wildfires in Southern California. My heart goes out to all those suffering from these devastating fires, and I have the utmost respect for all the firefighters, first responders, volunteers, and helpers of all kinds.   

For me, it was specially Sonoma Pinot and Chardonnay that really got this East Coast guy stoked on California wine. Just something about Sonoma hits different. Over the years, I’ve kept tabs on my favorite producers and enjoyed exploring new (to me) ones over the years. A winery I’ve enjoyed a lot over the past few years is Ram’s Gate Winery – who makes complex, delicious, mouthwatering Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 

Ram's Gate Estate Vineyard. Credit: Ram's Gate Winery

This Sonoma producer proves itself yet again with two new 2021 releases. They hold an estate vineyard in Carneros and source fruit from different sites around Sonoma, and seem to always craft winners. In 2021, Winemaker Joe Nielsen’s Sonoma Coast Series show the concentration and depth of dry conditions with the brightness and levity I love from Sonoma wines. 

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted. 

2021 Ram's Gate Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $48
Pretty yellow color. Breezy and bright on the nose with yellow pears, white peaches, drizzled with lime and lemon, and topped with some chalk dust and limestone. The palate is racy and crisp but shows a lovely depth of texture with flavors of rich lemon curd, tangy orange peel, kiwi, and yellow pears. There are waves of flinty minerals and chalk dust, along with honeyed white tea and hints of mint. So fresh and vibrant but deep and complex as well. Sourced mainly from Sebastapol-area fruit, this wine is aged for 11 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2021 Ram's Gate Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $52
Deep ruby color. Gorgeous aromas of black cherries, red and black plums, along with strawberry jam – saucy but fresh with scents of spiced black tea, tobacco, rose hips, and white pepper. The palate sports dusty tannins, deep texture, but such lively acidity, making for a fresh but rich wine. Lovely concentration of fruit (black cherry, raspberry, tangy strawberry) and the fruit is mixed well with tones of mint, rose, violets, spiced tea, some clay, loamy earth. Hints of cedar and clove are blended in expertly. Drinking great now, but no rush at all, as I’d love to see how this develops. Sourced from fruit from Green Valley, Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, and Carneros AVAs, and aged 11 months in 25% new French oak. (93 points)

Douro reds for chilly times

I hope your 2025 is off to a great start, dear reader.

Winter is in full swing and here in the Mid-Atlantic we’re looking at the first real blast of cold air and snow on the way. So, if you’re not doing a dry January, it’s a great time to check out some warm, hearty reds.

Quinta de Roriz - Credit: Prats & Symington

This week, I want to highlight two delightful selections from the Douro region of Portugal. I’m a huge fan of Portuguese wine, culture, the food, the surf – pretty much everything. I’ve made three trips and there’s still so much to see. For example, I haven’t been to the Douro, but I love learning about this region through its exceptional wines. Port is king, and also great for the season, but it’s the dry reds that really keep me coming back.

2022 wasn’t easy for Douro viticulturists, as the Douro Valley dealt with extreme heat and drought in the run up to the vintage, stressing the vines and, I reckon, the growers and winemakers. But the resulting wines show vibrancy, liveliness, and the resilience of this ancient region.

Prats & Symington formed in 1999 as a family partnership between the Symington family and the Prats family of Bordeaux. Based at Quinta de Roriz, a heralded site has been producing estate wines since the late 18th Century, where the vines get classic schist soils and a mostly northerly orientation, yielding cooler nights and focused, bright wines.

The entry level Prazo de Roriz delivers a ton of value and offers a great place to start your exploration into Douro reds. Then we have the Post Scriptum, which is sourced from Prats & Symington’s Quinta de Roriz and Quinta da Pedri, and is aged in 400-liter barrels. Both are blends of traditional varieties like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz.

If you haven’t tried a wine from this producer before, I find them very reliable across vintages, and it helps that the wines are available in many markets.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2022 Prats and Symington Douro Prazo de Roriz - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $19

Bright purple color. The nose pops with blackberry compote, tangy plums, along with plenty of sage, tobacco, earth, anise, and ginger cookie tones, making for a delightfully spicy, fresh appeal. On the palate, I get plums, blackberries, tangy black currants, on a frame of structured but smooth tannins and crisp acidity. It’s all quite balanced and wrapped together nicely, with accents of iron, graphite, oregano, smoky earth, some dark chocolate tones. Such a good value, and a great wine with cold weather, hearty food, and good friends. A classic Douro blend at a great price. (90 points)

2022 Prats and Symington Douro Post Scriptum de Chryseia - Portugal, Douro
SRP: $32
Deep purple color. The aromas show a dark, complex host of plums, black currants, saucy black cherries, along with anise, earth, graphite, and tobacco. The palate sports solid tannins but they have a fine, dusty feel, and the acidity is vibrant, laying the foundation for dark, tangy fruit (black cherry, currant, fig paste). I love the complexities of anise, cocoa, tobacco, and clove. Lovely complexity and depth, and has cellar potential too, making for a great experience and value. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz. (92 points)