In times of some tumult, I turn to familiar joys. Hikes at my local park, visits with my owl friends in the woods, spending time with family and friends, and revisiting wines that have never let me down.
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| Credit: Matthew Denny |
For me, Spring Mountain’s Smith-Madrone is one of the most reliable producers in California wine. I’m of the opinion they make one of, if not the, best Rieslings in California – a crisp, complex, racy, and age-worthy white I’ve enjoyed many times. And their Cab: another stunner and friend of the patient cellar-owner, somehow flies just low enough under the radar as to remain a relative screaming bargain in the Napa Cab category.
But my favorite is their Chardonnay. It’s uniquely crisp and mineral-driven, while showing the bountiful fruit and depth of their mountain vineyard terroir. And the skill and experience of duo Stu and Charlie Smith shines in the 2021 vintage. It’s worth every penny, delicious right now, but will surely reward those who cellar it.
Let me know what you think if you’ve tried a Smith-Madrone wine recently. And, if the answer is “I never have” – you may want to reconsider.
This wine was received as a sample and tasted sighted.
2021 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $45
Pretty yellow color. Excellent aromatic display of white peaches, lemon-lime, green apples, with sea salt, chalk dust, hints of hay and yellow flowers, and notes of honey, almond skin, and hazelnut. The palate sports such precision and lively acidity, balanced wonderfully with this creamy concentration of texture. Flavors of crunchy yellow apples, white peaches, and limes, matched by an infusion of minerals, chalk, and sea salt, with notes of hay, white and yellow flowers, hazelnut, and white pepper. I wrote “mineral city” and underlined it. Lovely in its youth, but this will age very nicely, too. (94 points)
Oregon’s Troon is always up to some cool, nerdy stuff. I’ve been a big fan of this producer (based in Southern Oregon’s unique Applegate Valley) for years, and they’re still surprising me. From meaty, peppery Syrahs, to crisp iterations of Vermentino (which may be some of my favorite in the U.S.), to fun outings like carbonic wines and Piquettes, you’d be hard pressed not to find something you like.
If you’re looking for an introduction into this biodynamic producer’s portfolio, a great place to start would be with their Druid’s wines. In 2023, they produced three of (a red, white, and rosé). These blends, inspired by the Rhone Valley and Provence, offer a value-driven taste of Applegate Valley personality. Here in the estate vineyards, the diverse Kubli Bench soil, microclimate, and winemaking style combine for wines that are fresh, relatively low in alcohol, and packed with unique spices and textures.
I also have their new vintages of their Vermentino and Syrah, two grapes with which Troon excels.
These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.
2023 Troon Vineyard Druid's White - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Bursting aromatic display of saline, chalk dust, oyster shell, along with green apples, white peaches, and limes, topped in some complex floral tones. The palate sports a racy frame with pleasant creaminess and a zippy, mineral infusion. A choice fruit salad (papaya, green apples, and white peaches, drizzled in lime), blended with nuances of oyster shells, chalk dust, breezy floral meadows. Hints of nutshell and honey linger on the finish. A beautiful blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Vermentino, and Roussanne. (91 points)
2023 Troon Vineyard Druid's Pink - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright copper color. The nose sports an enticing mix of white peaches, lemons, red apples, with a cool mix of spiced white tea, mint, and slate-mineral vines. On the palate, this sports a delightful mix of spiced cranberry sauce, watermelon, raspberries, and white cherries, on a frame of crisp acidity and pleasantly creamy texture. Notes of mint, white flowers, chalk dust, and white pepper add complexity. Lovely, vibrant, complex rose. A classic blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, and Counoise. (90 points)
2023 Troon Vineyard Druid's Red - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. The aromas show juicy plums, raspberries, cherries, even some pomegranate, all of it super fresh and inviting, with tones of rose hips, tobacco, and some mineral/earthy vibes. The palate has dusty tannins, vibrant acidity, yet lots of depth, with a pleasant and crushable vibe. Crunchy cherries, red plums, raspberries, the fruit is backed up by tones of dusty earth, pepper, roses, leather, all woven in so nicely. Love the freshness and unique flavors and vibe. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan. (91 points)
2023 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Pale lemon color. Bursting with fresh aromas on the nose, like kiwi, lemons, grapefruit, and crunchy green apples, with floral perfume, mint, some tropical tea as well. The palate is bright and brisk but shows lovely depth of texture, with flavors of kiwi, papaya, lime. Accents of limestone, seashells, white tea, honey, and almond skin blend so well together. Fresh, airy, bright, but complex – a lovely iteration of this grape from folks who know what they’re doing with it. (92 points)
2022 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Bright purple color. The nose shows a deep but bright mix of red plums, cherries, and raspberries, along with a host of spicy, herbal, and floral tones (pepper, violets, roses, sage). The palate shows suave tannins, crisp acidity, and a tangy core of black cherries, raspberries, and plums. I get a lot of black pepper, rose petals, tobacco, and there’s a deep sense of stony minerality, earth, and vibrant flower gardens. This will be a delight for quite a while in the cellar as well. (92 points)
If you celebrate Valentine’s Day, or you’re looking for something to treat yourself in these cold days, I’ve got a wine this week that would be a great choice.
I’m talking about Port. And not the kind that costs a ton and you have to age for decades – the entry level, crushable, value-driven Ruby Port. Sandeman is a classic producer (dating back to 1790) of these traditional Portuguese fortified wines and they craft a range of classic styles with unique flair. They recently released their reliably delicious Ruby Port with a new canister and packaging (a cooperation with Lisbon-based street artist OzeArv) that could make for a nice gift for the wine lover in your life.
Wishing you all the best during this month of February!
This wine was received as a sample and tasted sighted.
N.V. Sandeman Porto Founder's Reserve Ruby Port - Portugal, Douro, Porto
SRP: $25
Vibrant purple/violet color. Deep, warm, inviting nose of baked cherry pie, sweet plums, and blackberries, mixed with tones of roasted chestnut, anise, and coffee. It has the classic Ruby plush texture, and shows smooth tannins, integrated sweetness, and fresh acidity. Flavors of rich plums and black cherries blend well with nuances of anise, Christmas cookie, coffee, roasted nuts, and some subtle earth. Rich and plush but shows freshness as well – would be a great crowd-pleaser or entry into Port, but has complexity and depth as well. (89 points)
