Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Le Clos du Serres: Terroir-Driven Wines From Terrasses du Larzac

Sébastien Fillon was born in the Loire and worked as an engineer in Lyon. At 30, he switched careers and became a winemaker. He received a degree in viticulture and started looking for a place to make his own wine. After three years of searching, Sébastien and his wife Béatrice found the perfect spot in Southern France’s Languedoc. In 2006, they bought Domaine le Clos du Serres, near St. Jean de la Blaquière in the relatively new Terrasses du Larzac appellation.

“There’s everything one needs to make great wine: arid soil, deep water, sun, a very special climate,” Sébastien explains. “After the era of mass wine production, it was here that Languedoc quality wines began re-emerging in the ’90s. Nowadays this outstanding terroir is buzzing and its true potential has only been recognized in the past few years.”
 
The Fillon family in Terrasses du Larzac. Photo courtesy of Weygandt Selections.
Terrasses du Larzac was recognized as a sub-appellation of the AOC Coteaux du Languedoc in 2004. The AOC regulations allow only red blends to be produced under the Terrasses du Larzac appellation. These wines are mostly blends of syrah, grenache and mourvèdre, but these three grapes cannot individually exceed 75% of the blend. Also, syrah and/or mourvèdre must make up a minimum of 20% of the wine. Every Terrasses du Larzac wine must be a blend of at least two varieties. While these regulations sound strict, they do allow for a lot of variation in the amount and percentage of grape varieties in the final blend.

The soils of Terrasses vary widely, composed of stones, clay, sand, limestone. The hot Languedoc sun is tempered by the proximity to the limestone Larzac plateau and the river valleys of Hérault and Lergue, which bring in cool air during the summer nights. This large shift in temperature between day and night helps the grapes mature slowly and maintain acidity.

For Sébastien, Terrasses was the perfect place to lay down roots. “The Terrasses du Larzac appellation is still young but its reputation is coming on in leaps and bounds,” he explains on his website. “The number of seriously high quality vineyards in the sector is incredible.”

I recently had the opportunity to meet Sébastien in DC and taste through some new releases from Domaine Le Clos du Serres. Weygandt Wines, the DC shop of one of my favorite wine importers, recently started bringing these wines into the U.S. Considering their quality and reasonable prices, I’m sure these wines will be a big hit.

My notes on the wines of Domaine Le Clos du Serres are posted below.

Saturday, April 13, 2013

Tasting Report: Napa Valley Cabernet & Blends

You get what you pay for. Sometimes. Frequently, you get less. Only rarely do you get more.

Assessing the relationship between quality and price is one of the most frustrating things about wine. Paradoxically, it’s also one the most fun things. When tasted blind, without any knowledge of the producer or price tag, a taster can focus solely on what’s in the glass: the color, the aromas, the flavors, the acid, the complexity, the length of the finish. When we’re dealing with pricey categories of wine — like Napa Valley cabernet for example — blind tasting can be an interesting case study in quality vs. cost.

My last cabernet sauvignon tasting report focused more broadly on the New World, but today I’m focusing specifically on cabernet sauvignon-based blends from Napa.

All wines were received as press samples and tasted blind.

2008 Franciscan Oakville Estate Magnificat - Napa Valley ($50)
The nose is dark and deep and needs some time to open. But I got some lovely smoked earth, sweet plum, potpourri and toasted oak with some time in the glass. Very creamy on the palate, showing richness but also intensity. Black cherry fruit, earth and mocha are topped with sweet cedary oak, perhaps a bit much for some palates, but I think the oak is balanced by the overall power of the juice. Tobacco and hints of lavender linger onto the finish. Time in the cellar would do this good. A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Petite Verdot and 2% Malbec. (90 points)

2008 Castello di Amorosa La Castellana - Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain ($88)
Intoxicating aromas of wild raspberries, sweet plums, some violets, fig paste and cedar. Fresh red and black fruits start off the palate, raspberry, plum, fig, even some notes of dried apricot. Flavors of soil, coffee, cedar and hazelnut add complexity. The tannins have smooth edges, making this easy to drink now, although I think it could be cellared for five years easily. The acid lingers onto the finish along subtle notes of vanilla bean and toast. A fruit-forward yet elegant blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 16% Sangiovese. Simply delicious. (91 points)

2009 St. Supery Estate Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley ($30)
Aromas of ground coffee, cherry liqueur and notes of rhubarb. Rich and jammy on the palate, but really firm tannins provide structure. Lots of red currant, red apple peel (no joke) mixed with flavors of vanilla bean and toasted coconut. A solid Cabernet Sauvignon that will gain complexity over the next few years. 5% Merlot in here as well, all aged 22 months in 40% new French oak. (88 points)

Luscious nose of red and black plums, cherry pie, cedar and cinnamon candies. On the palate, fine tannins and medium acid provide a base for the bright cherry and tangy plum fruit. Cinnamon, cedar, campfire smoke and vanilla bean flavors grab my palate’s attention and keep it. With time, hints of dill pickle and sage drift in and linger through the long finish. Throughout, the wine maintains a very fresh, unassuming style, but it’s layered with complex flavors and seems capable of serious development in the cellar. A Steve Matthiasson wine. (92 points)

Aromatically, this wine is rocking: pure plum and blackberry fruit, hints of white and bell pepper, wet leaves. The fruit is distinctly Californian, but it has a Bordeaux-like approach as well, and I love it. Fresh acid balances with fine tannins and rich plum fruit. Complex and lush, with those same peppery notes, tobacco and a braised meat flavor. Soft oak adds toast and vanilla notes, but they don’t overwhelm. Very balanced and ready to drink now. (90 points)

2010 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five - Napa Valley, Stags Leap District ($72)
Incredibly dark purple color in the glass with thick legs. Aromas of black plums, espresso, toasted oak, hints of rose petals. Grippy tannins provide solid structure. The plum skin, blackberry and cassis flavors are strong and compact and need time to develop. Acid seems a little low. On the finish, flavors of black tea, espresso and dried leaves mingle with a big dose of toasty oak (it’s aged 20 months in 100% new French oak). If you’re drinking it now, a long decant is the way to go. (88 points)

2010 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - Napa Valley, Stags Leap District ($70)
Dark and rich on the nose, like blackberries and currants cooked down with brown sugar and ground coffee. Notes of tobacco, dusty earth and anise come out on the nose as well. The tannins are firm and dusty, the acid is focused and the blackberry and currant fruit is pure and velvety. Notes of potting soil, soy sauce, mocha and pipe tobacco add complexity. Long finish with notes of creamy oak. A beautiful example of 2010 Napa Cabernet, and a wine that will do wonders over the next 10-15 years. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 54% new French oak. (93 points)

2010 Vineyard 29 Cabernet Sauvignon “Cru” - Napa Valley, St. Helena ($54)
Dark purple colored. Aromas of dark plums, raspberry jam and sweet pipe tobacco, also some cedar and mocha. Really alluring aromas that transition to rich flavors on the palate. Medium-tannins, medium acid and a rounded use of oak set up the dark plum and boysenberry flavors. Mocha, toast and cherry liqueur mixed in. A rich finish with notes of vanilla and cherry wood. A hedonistic wine, but impressive in its concentration. Aged 18 months in 50% new French oak, this cabernet sauvignon includes 7% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 3% Petite Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. (91 points)

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Two Rocking Reds From Gun Bun

As far as Sonoma County producers go, Gundlach Bundschu may be one of the hardest to pronounce. (Something like Gun‑lock Bun‑shoe, although it’s often referred to by the punchy abbreviation Gun Bun.) But nothing about Gun Bun is simple.

Based in California’s Sonoma Valley appellation, the history of this family-owned winery dates back to 1858! (The story is so epic that I can’t detail it here, but if you’re interested, the winery provides some fascinating historical context.) They craft a wide variety of white and red wines from their Estate Vineyard, blending in grapes from other nearby plots as well. Gun Bun provides one of the coolest features I’ve seen a winery website: an interactive map of their gorgeous Estate Vineyard.

I had the recent pleasure of drinking two different Gun Bun red blends from the 2009 vintage. Both wines were tasted blind among a host of other quality Napa and Sonoma red blends, yet both Gun Bun wines stood out from the crowd with their class, complexity and unique flavors.

2009 Gundlach Bundschu Mountain Cuvée - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley ($24)
This wine shows some restraint on the nose, but I mean that in a good way. I smell red currant, sour cherry, rose petals, tobacco and some roasted coffee, and it’s all mixed together really well. Tangy acid and fine-grained tannins on the palate make this so easy to drink. Lovely mix of currant, sour cherry, roasted plum fruit, and it all tastes fresh and crisp. Secondary flavors of tobacco, sage, black pepper. A hint of bacon fat on the long finish. Very Old World in its approach, must more nuanced and subtle than bombastic. Still has a good five years of aging potential. A kitchen sink red blend of 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 6% Zinfandel, 3% Syrah, 3% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec. For the price, are you friggin’ kidding me? (91 points)

2009 Gundlach Bundschu Vintage Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley ($80)
A complex and sure to be long-lived wine. Aromas of smoke, tar and loam accent the pure blackberry and cassis. Juicy and fresh on the palate with ripe but firm tannins and fresh acid. The blackberries, fig paste and caramel flavors are deep, verging on the profound. Rich, but not overbearing. Graphite and cocoa powder last long onto the finish. Delicious now, but this will get incrementally better with five years in the cellar. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot aged 20 months in 65% new French oak.
(92 points)

Gun Bun makes justifiably pricey wines, but, as the Mountain blend shows, they’re equally dedicated to producing quality wines at solid prices. Hats off, Gun Bun. Hats off.

Saturday, April 6, 2013

Welcoming Spring With Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc


Fumé blanc isn't a grape variety, rather a proprietary synonym
for sauvignon blanc made in a dry, crisp style. The wines
are sometimes fermented or aged in some amount of oak.
It’s technically spring, although if you’re anywhere in the Midwest or East Coast you may beg to differ. Surely warm weather and sun will be here soon enough. I’m looking forward to the patio parties, the brighter food and, of course, the wine. And what better way to welcome in spring than by sipping some Napa Valley sauvignon blanc? Here are four such wines that shouldn’t disappoint.

All wines were received as press samples and tasted blind.

2010 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley ($20)
Aromas of lemon, margarita salt, grapefruit rind, some green melon… very expressive. Tangy, full, lots of pineapple and key lime flavors, white flowers. Very fresh acid, yet really rich. Creamy-coconut flavors accent the finish. This is such a consistently good wine that I’d recommend pretty much any vintage. There’s 6% semillon in here as well. (88 points)

2012 St. Supéry Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley ($20)
This sauvignon blanc shows lots of tropical aromas (mango, papaya, orange peel) mixed with notes of sage and a hint of green onion. Creamy tropical fruit on the palate but also lots of green grass, sage and white pepper notes. I really like the way the herbal kick and acid linger onto the finish. (87 points)

2011 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc - USA, California, Napa Valley ($30)
A pretty aromatic display of guava, pineapple, lemon-lime and notes of sea shell. Plump on the palate, with lots of fresh guava and mango fruit, but the acid stays focused throughout and keeps this wine fresh. Notes of chives, grapefruit rind and sea shell add depth to the hazelnut and whipped honey flavors. Creamy yet tangy on the finish with surprising length. Very impressive. This wine comes from certified organic and biodynamic grapes to boot. (89 points)

2011 Vineyard 29 Sauvignon Blanc Cru - USA, California, Napa Valley ($54)
This wine is not kidding around with the aromatics: a deep and complex mix of key lime, lemon zest, sea salt, pineapple… it’s like the Caribbean in a glass. This wine is full-bodied and rich, but the live-wire acid keeps it zesty. I love the flavors of lime, papaya, sea salt, mixed with richer notes of apricot, golden pear and honey. Notes of oyster shell and minerals linger onto the long finish. It’s the most expensive wine in this bunch, and I rarely see sauvignon blanc come with this steep of a price tag. That said, the juice justifies the cost. This is gorgeous California sauvignon blanc that deserves some of the freshest scallops or a sweet-glazed salmon. Aged 11 months in 65% French oak (30% new), 25% concrete and 10% stainless steel. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

A California Syrah Defies Convention, Expands Consciousness

At a blind tasting last week I came across a wine that both puzzled and delighted me. It smelled of blackberries, roses, violets and rich earth. On the palate, the wine was fresh and light, the acid was tangy, and the tannins were fine. The flavors of olive, black tea, white pepper and crushed rocks were complex and intriguing. And the earthy and mineral-driven finish lasted forever. As I’m prone to do at blind tastings, I tried to guess the grape and region. The olive and earth aspects reminded me of a Northern Rhone syrah, perhaps a single-vineyard Crozes-Hermitage? But the black tea and mineral also made me think of a pinot from the Jura region of France. (Two other experienced tasters guessed nebbiolo from Piedmont.)

What the hell was this stuff? I was confused, but I rated it a conservative 92 points.

When the wine was unveiled, I was shocked. It was a 2010 Edmunds St. John Syrah “Wylie-Fenaughty” from El Dorado County, located in California’s Sierra Foothills appellation. The alcohol clocked in at a meager 13%. After tasting this wine, my journalistic mind kicked into gear — I just had to find out what made this California syrah so damn unique.

Keeping in mind the truism “wine is made in the vineyard,” let’s start there. The syrah juice in this bottle comes from two separate vineyards (hence the hyphenated name on the label). Both the Wylie Vineyard and the Fenaughty Vineyard are located at 2,800 feet on separate sides of the American River. The Wylie Vineyard soil is shallow and composed of fractured quartzite and shale. This hilly spot gets so steep that some rows of vines had to be terraced. Co-founder and winemaker Steve Edmunds describes the Fenaughty Vineyard this way: “The soil at Fenaughty is volcanic, in origin, a series known as Aiken Loam; it’s very red in color, sandy in texture, with a good deal of rock mixed in.”

A cooperative effort between Steve and his wife Cornelia St. John, Edmunds St. John has been making wine since 1985. Based in Berkeley, the couple also sources grapes from Napa, Mendocino and San Luis Obispo Counties. (The story of the winery is fascinating, and detailed here.) Steve Edmunds made his first syrah that same year, sourcing the grapes from Paso Robles. The resulting wine came in with a bantamweight alcohol content of 10.5%! Edmunds says he was hoping for something like 12.5%, but, either way, I think this says a lot about the winemaker’s approach to syrah. And the 2010 Syrah Wylie-Fenaughty says a lot about the shortfalls of the Old World-New World dichotomy. It fights back against the general conception of California syrah as a hot blackberry boot to the teeth.
 
Steep slopes of syrah - Wylie Vineyard
Edmunds seems like a true terroirist. In a 2010 blog post, he explains how “California syrah” is not the most helpful mental construct, considering the tremendous diversity of elements that come together in each bottle of wine. “The fact that Syrah in California has been thought of, for most of the past twenty-odd years, as being very dark, full-bodied, powerful wine makes a certain kind of sense, at least in the abstract. California is generally a warm place, with a long, mostly dry growing season, one that starts early and hangs around almost until the Winter holidays in many years. But this abstract sense strikes me as neither informative nor useful, since California’s geography boasts stunning variability in elevation, proximity to the ocean, marine airflow patterns, mountain airflow patterns, soil moisture-retaining capacity, soil vigor, wind and sun exposures, topography, and so on, that profoundly influence the nature of wine produced on any given site.”

If you’re interested in expanding your own concept of what syrah is capable of achieving in California, drink this stuff. And, check this out: K&L Wines is selling this syrah for a modest $30 sum. Well worth it, especially when you consider that consumers probably won’t see “Wylie” on any more Edmunds St. John labels. (In an email, Steve wrote: “Wylie, unfortunately, is no longer a source for us. Long, sad tale of woe.”) Yes, it is sad, but I plan on scoping out more wines from this producer very soon.

Cheers!

Monday, April 1, 2013

Horror, Insanity and Punk in Nick Blinko’s “The Primal Screamer”

Nathaniel Snoxell is a disturbed young bloke. This 20-year-old first meets Dr. Rodney H. Dweller, a London psychiatrist, after slicing up both of his wrists in a botched suicide attempt that is anything but a “cry for help.” The doctor admits that he’s has never, “seen such grevious self-inflicted injuries as those that lay upon the wrists of Nathaniel Snoxell.”

Nick Blinko’s novel The Primal Screamer is structured as a series of first-person journal entries from this Dr. Dweller, who treats Nat on-and-off from 1979 to 1984. In these journal entries, Dweller tries to understand why Nat suffers from an infatuation with death and a “strong desire for oblivion.” Here are some of the doctor’s early observations of Nat’s mental state:

“Nat’s death wish is both incredibly deep-rooted and close to the surface.”

“What the poor boy has repressed for these last twenty years is inconceivable.”

“At times, though, he feels murderous. Paradoxically, I know he has the wherewithal to kill himself and yet I do not think that he could ever kill another person: he is emphatically one who could not deliberately injure a fly.”

The doctor uses psychotherapy, hypnotherapy and a method he calls “primal therapy” — a kind of deep hypnotherapy designed to uncover trauma stemming back to birth, even earlier. Dr. Dweller barely considers medicating Nat, a choice that seems like it borders on professionally irresponsible considering Nat’s “severe mental distress.” At one point, frustrated yet again by the lack of progress with his client, the doctor laments: “I wish I could give him a pill that would provide the thrill and insight of his love of death, whilst simultaneously freeing him from the threat that it poses to his life. Such a pill, sadly, does not exist, and psychology favours all-pervasive healthy normalcy over morbid unwholesomeness, however visionary it might be.”

A deeply anti-social person, one day Nat picks up the guitar and starts strumming. He soon meets up with a group of anarchist punks who start a band, making music that they view as a means of artistic and socio-political liberation. Dr. Dweller is skeptical of Nat’s growing obsession with this whole “punk” thing: “I had thought [punk music] extinct by now, or at least out of fashion. The punk styles have been transmuted, absorbed and adopted by society, though the polemics — always a minority taste — remain untouched. Nat informed me that ‘punk is not a fashion, it’s an attitude.’ I have heard this somewhere before.”

A classical violinist himself, Dr. Dweller admits that the interaction with other band members and gig attendees could do some good for the reclusive Nat. “Although at the moment he only aspires to long drone-ridden dirges, I believe that his fascination for the instrument will eventually educe much more beneficial effects, most of them probably not musical.”

But even with raucous anarcho-punk as an outlet, Nat cannot defeat his anxiety, depression and morbid fascinations.

The suicide attempts, his constant feelings of dread and despair, the bombardment of dark images, Nat’s struggles feel intensely real, even though they are interpreted through the doctor/narrator. Perhaps Nat’s tortured mental state seems so authentic because it is based on Blinko’s own experiences. Blinko suffers from Schizoactive disorder and has been hospitalized just like Nat. The macabre and obsessive drawings that litter this book seem inexctricably related to Blinko’s own delusions. In order to draw or paint, Blinko sometimes stops taking his therapeutic medication, which allows him access to the deepest and darkest chasms of his mind. It also allows the reader a harrowing and unobstructed view of severe mental distress.

Author/Artist Nick Blinko.
Nick Blinko has a chaotic but ingenious mind. The frontman, lyricist, guitarist and illustrator for the anarcho-punk group Rudimentary Peni, Blinko is no stranger to pushing the limits of artistic expression. I love the way Maximum Rock N Roll describes the author: “Nick Blinko is a madman. That’s not intended as a pejorative opinion but rather a statement of plain fact.” A veteran of what is sometimes called the “outsider art” scene, Blinko’s attacks his canvasses with blank ink pens, scrawling obsessive patterns, distorted faces, broken bodies and all sorts of demonic creatures. Shocking in their subject matter, Blinko’s drawings are also incredible in their exquisite detail. (Click here to view images of some of Blinko’s work from OutsiderArt.co.uk.) Dozens of Blinko’s sketches (including the scary-awesome cover) are scattered throughout this book. It’s worth buying Primal Screamer for the drawings alone, they’re that fucking good.

This novel is more than just creepy, spooky and punky, it’s deeply philosophical. Primal Screamer focuses on the desire to create art in spite of — or perhaps because of — traumatic and painful experiences. But Nat (and ultimately Blinko himself) don’t view art as some cheesy therapeutic endeavor. Rather, art is about combating nihilism. Even when dealing with disturbing and macabre subject matter, art exists only because of the active participation of the artist. And every act of creation is inherently optimistic. “Creativity,” writes Dr. Dweller, “however pessimistic it appears, is quintessentially optimistic, proven by the fact of its actual existence.”


The book is also an interesting case studying in the shortfalls of the fiction-nonfiction dichotomy. Nat’s band in the book follows Rudimentary Peni’s real-life story. Nat’s mental struggles are Blinko’s. But the end result is a work of “fiction.” 

How do we make sense of this? The author of the introduction ponders, “whether, in their search for truth, human beings are capable of anything other than fiction. Doesn’t everything we express, no matter how ‘truthful’ we intend it to be, come out distorted by virtue of having passed through our individual and unique minds?” It’s a very good question, one Blinko spends 122 pages dissecting.

While much of this book is semi-autobiographical, there comes a point near the end when the connection with Blinko’s personal experience is severed. Here, things take an even darker turn. Nat mysteriously disappears. While trying to find him, the doctor falls upon a place so macabre it drives him completely insane. Trust me, I’m not giving away the ending, but suffice it to say H.P. Lovecraft would be proud.

If you’re not sold yet on this story, I don’t know what else to write. So here’s a quick sketch of mine that’s inspired by Blinko’s work.
© Isaac James Baker