Middelvlei: A Rustic Stellenbosch Experience

The first winery I visited in Stellenbosch was the Middelvlei wine estate. As soon as we got to town, my wife wanted to shop at a local “slow food” market nearby, so we ate some great food and walked around checking out craft vendors. Afterward, we headed down the road to this small wine estate tucked away behind some rolling hills.

After a long history as a farm, and then as a vineyard that sold its grapes to other producers, Middelvlei Estate is now in its third generation. The wines weren’t stunning, but they were fun, easy to drink, very reasonably priced and showed some interesting regional characteristics. The Cabernet and Shiraz were quite good and capable of development in the cellar.

Middelvlei sells their wines almost exclusively to Northern European countries. The winery doesn’t export to the United States, which is a shame because I think their Pinotages could do well on some by-the-glass lists. If you’re in Stellenbosch, the tasting room is in a pretty spot, located in an old barn, and worth a visit. The winery seems far less commercial and more rustic in their approach, which I appreciate. 

My notes on a few of Middelvlei’s wines…

Middelvlei has three dogs: a giant old mastiff, a towering
great Dane and a tiny wiener dog, who are all very friendly.

2013 Middelvlei Chardonnay Unoaked Devon Valley - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch, Devon Valley
Medium yellow color. Fruity on the nose, with lemon, apple and honey. Juicy on the palate, but a bit flat on the midpalate. I get some pineapple, honeydew, white tea, a bit of butter. Simple but pleasant. (80 points)

2012 Middelvlei Pinotage-Merlot - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
Dark ruby color. Sweet plum cake, currant jam, some cinnamon and sugar on the nose. Medium-bodied with easy sipping tannins and medium acid. Flavors of plum, fig cake, cedar and coffee. Interested green tea and clove notes come out on the finish. Fun, pleasant, easy-drinking. (85 points)

2012 Middelvlei Pinotage Free Run - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
Medium ruby colored. Smells of blueberry, sweet blackberry, violets, very fruity and pleasant aromas. Fine tannins and medium acid on the palate. Flavors of green coffee and cedar accent the blueberry and black currant fruit. For a wine made only from free-run juice, it’s still well-structured. Leather and coffee-laden finish. (86 points)

2013 Middelvlei Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch, Devon Valley
Dark ruby color. Complex aromas of currants, blackberries, cedar, sweet clove and cinnamon. Lovely velvety texture with creamy tannins, fresh acid and juicy currant fruit. Notes of smoke, pepper and sweet meat marinade. Could age quite nicely, but showing well right now. Spends 12 months in French and American oak. (87 points)

2012 Middelvlei Shiraz Stellenbosch - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
Medium purple color. Dark berry compote on the nose, along with black pepper, sweet barbecue sauce and soil. Juicy with medium strength tannins and medium- acid. Flavors of fleshy plums and black currants, along with notes of roasted chestnut, pepper and soy sauce. I’d cellared this for one to three years. I wasn’t expecting much from this producer, but this is quite good. (87 points)

Vilafonté: Stunning South African Red Blends

I’ve dreamed of going to South Africa since I was a kid, for surfing, not wine. But as I developed my passion for both surfing and wine over the years, the trip became more and more of a necessity. Well, I finally made the transatlantic trek. I’ve just returned from South Africa, and I can honestly say the trip exceeded all of my highest expectations.

I spent about ten days in the Western Cape with my wife before heading to the northeastern part of the country for a camping safari. While on the Cape, I took advantage of some gorgeous surf breaks with clear blue, intensely powerful waves. I wine-tasted my way through the Cape Peninsula, the Garden Route, Hermanus and Stellenbosch, exploring a diverse viticultural landscape. I was in paradise.

Of course, there were travel frustrations, necessary adaptations, cultural oddities, a bribe-hungry cop I had to smooth-talk, thorns both metaphorical and physical. But, overall, the trip was epic, invaluable, worth the years of waiting, planning and saving.

In the coming days and weeks, I’ll have a series of posts based on my time in South Africa. I’ll share my impressions of the country’s wine, food, culture and surf. But, to start off, I thought I’d discuss two of the most memorable and praiseworthy wines from my trip: two red blends from Vilafonté called Series M and Series C.

Vilafonté is a coordinated effort between South African Mike Ratcliffe and Californian Zelma Long. Mike runs his family’s Warwick Estate in Stellenbosch, and he’s active in international wine communities. (Click here for a post on Warwick’s awesome wines.) California pioneer Zelma Long worked as enologist for Robert Modavi in the 70s, Simi in the 80s, and currently owns several of her own projects in Sonoma and Napa. Mike and Zelma kicked off Vilafonté in 1998, and together they’ve created something marvelous.

With their diverse backgrounds, the Vilafonté team keeps a narrow focus. They produce only two wines, both red Bordeaux blends. The Series M is based on Malbec and the Series C is based on Cabernet.

Last week I started off a day of wine tasting at the Vilafonté winery, located in a former distillery on the edge of Stellenbosch. I met with Sofia Hawkins, who manages sales and Vilafonte’s wine club. We tasted the 2011 vintage of both wines while chatting about the vineyard, the founders’ vision for the wines and more general impressions of the Stellenbosch wine culture.

The 2011s were equally stunning and elegant. Both are beautiful at a young age — aeration is a must, decanting highly recommended — but they will develop all sorts of nuance and complexity in the cellar.

The wines are made from estate fruit grown in the titular vilafonté soils (gravelly clay) in the Paarl-Simonsberg region, on the north side of the serene Simonsberg mountains. Both wines are composed of only free-run juice, Sofia explained, which may help explain the velvety and effortless mouthfeel and of the wines.

The 2011 harvest began on Valentine’s Day and lasted three weeks. My wife, who enjoyed the wines as much as I did, asked Sofia about mechanical harvesting, recalling a previous wine trip in Germany where we witnessed a mechanical harvester shaking and chopping the living hell out of rows of vines. Sofia’s reaction was telling of Vilafonté’s attitude toward the vineyard and the natural environment it shares. “No machine harvesting. It’s all done by hand.” Wine quality and vine health aside, she said mechanical harvesters shouldn’t be used because, “there are lizards in the vineyard.” I love that attitude, and I loved the wines.

Here are my notes…

2011 Vilafonté Series M - South Africa, Coastal Region, Paarl
Dark ruby colored. The aromas are deep and contemplative, evolving quite a lot over the half-hour tasting. Great tannic structure, but the tannins are sanded down so the mouthfeel is creamy, complemented by fresh acid. The black cherry and blueberry fruit is pure and voluptuous. I get complex notes of cola, cedar, dried leaves, charcoal and baking spices. The wine is long, full and complex, and the mouthfeel is so damn attractive. A blend of 51% Malbec, 46% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 22 months in 20% new French Oak and 12 months in bottle before release. A stunning wine. 

(93 points)

2011 Vilafonté Series C - South Africa, Coastal Region, Paarl
Deep ruby colored. Such complex aromas: currants and dried blueberries infused with cola, charcoal smoke, loam, sweet herbs. Clearly this needs time to show its full aromatic display. Great structure, serious concentration, the tannins have a bit more grit than the Series M, but there’s still a wonderful velvety approach. Bold currant, fig paste and blackberries mix with notes of tobacco, soil, loam, anise, forest floor and granite. Dense but it opens up. Burly but elegant, if that’s possible. Aged 22 months in 80% new French oak and 12 months in bottle before release. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 14% Malbec and 9% Cabernet Franc. Needs four or five years at least, but will hold for a decade+ without problem. 

(93+ points)

Every vintage, Vilafonté holds back some cases of each wine and releases them after they’ve been aged for four or five years, allowing consumers a glimpse of the long-term potential for these wines. Tasting some Vilafonté wines with five+ years on them is now on my to-do list. I expect to be thrilled. If you’ve tasted some older vintages, I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Cheers!

Wine Reviews: California Chardonnay Shines in 2012

This post first appeared on tthe daily wine blog Terroirist.

California Chardonnay needs no introduction, so let’s get down to business. Most of these wines came from the 2012 vintage, and based on this tasting, there’s a lot to like about the combination of richness and freshness. A few 2011s snuck there way into the tasting, and I enjoy them as well for the lean and tangy approach.

The wines were all received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2012 Riverbench Vineyard & Winery Chardonnay Estate - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley

SRP: $26
Medium gold color. Aromas of lime zest and sea breeze mix with richer notes of honey and lemon oil. Rich but so tangy on the palate, the papaya and honey contrasts and complements the sea salt and lime zest. So pure and lively, full of floral and mineral undertones, with a long and nervy finish. So long and pure, capable of development in the cellar. Absurd in its deliciousness and value. (92 points)

2012 Rusack Chardonnay Reserve - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $32
Light gold color. Rich aromas of pineapple, baked pear, honey and cinnamon. Bold on the palate, full-bodied and rich. The pineapple and mango fruit is slathered in honey and dusted with cinnamon and nutmeg. Acid comes out on the finish, saving the wine from being too rich, and I even pick up some mineral and sea shell notes on the finish. A bold and nutty, barrel heavy Chard, but it has personality. Full maloactic fermentation, aged in French oak (69% new), the fruit comes from Siera Madre and Bien Nacido Vineyards. (87 points)

2012 Rusack Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Lovely aromatics of white flowers, clover honey, sea breeze over top of key lime pie and peach tart. On the palate, crisp acid meets a creamy body, everything’s in balance. Love the nectarine, white peach and yellow pear fruit, accented by notes of sea shell, white tea with honey. Hazelnut and nougat linger on the finish. Long and full, yet clean and food-friendly. Full maloactic fermentation, 22% new oak, which allows the purity of the fruit to shine through a bit more. From Bien Nacido and Sierra Madre Vineyards. (90 points) Note: How did I rate the cheaper wine higher than the more expensive reserve? Well, I tasted these blind, so I didn’t know, but it all comes down to personal preference for oak. I liked the cleanliness and transparency of this bottling more than the toast-heavy reserve. But, to each his/her own.

2012 Gainey Chardonnay - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $20
Medium yellow-gold color. Aromas of green pears, nectarine, buttercream and honeysuckle. Medium acid balances the creamy aspects to the wine. The white peach, pear and nectarine flavors are tangy and ripe, backed up with notes of honey, cinnamon and macadamia nut. A bit of lemon oil on the finish. Rich, but focused and clean. (88 points)

2012 Fess Parker Chardonnay Ashley’s Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $37
Medium gold color. Nectarine and lime aromas mix with richer notes of cantaloupe and honey. The palate shows medium acid and a creamy mouthfeel on a medium+ bodied frame. Rich orange marmalade and pineapple mix with honey and nougat flavors, a bit of underlying sea shells. Very nutty on the finish, like crushed peanut and hazelnut shells. Aged 10 months in 35% new French oak. (87 points)

2012 Fess Parker Chardonnay Sierra Madre - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $37
Medium gold color. Rich aromatics of cantaloupe, yellow apple, honey and floral perfume. Rich texture is framed by medium acid. Full of yellow apple, white peach and cantaloupe flavors, dusted with coconut, vanilla and pistachio nuts. I get a note that reminds me of musk and fresh baby’s breath, and a sea salt note on the finish. Bold and rich, but presents itself well and shows a lot of complex flavors. Long, creamy finish. 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2012 Fess Parker Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $37
Light gold color. Aromas of nectarine, yellow apple and honeysuckle, some crushed rocks. Rich and creamy, almost a viscous texture, but the acid comes through in an attempt to balance it. Caramel corn, vanilla bean, buttered biscuit and almond notes intertwine, along with limestone, sea shell and white flowers. It’s exuberant, but also fresh and nuanced. A very impressive Chardonnay. Barrel fermented, aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (91 points)

2012 Fess Parker Chardonnay Lazy F Ranch - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita HillsSRP: Unknown
Rich gold color. Aromas of white peach, nectarine, honeysuckle and a kick of sea salt and white flowers… tons going on with the aromas. Full-bodied but tangy acid on the palate with a wonderful sense of richness and balance. Nougat and honeycomb accent the nectarine and cantaloupe flavors. Notes of buttered biscuit, almond and coconut shavings add complexity but don’t overwhelm all else. Love the sea breeze and limestone notes on the finish. Big, but still fresh, I’d love to revisit this in a year or two. (91 points)

2012 Matchbook Chardonnay Old Heads - California, Central Valley, Dunnigan Hills
SRP $15
Medium gold color. Aromas of white peach, cantaloupe melon, along with fresh white flowers and butter. Richly textured on the palate, with a bold approach of peach, baked pear and dried mango. Whipped butter and honey mixes with nuts, shaved coconut and lemon curd. Sweet floral notes on the finish. Bold and rich, showing a range of flavors. (86 points)

2012 Jordan Vineyard & Winery Chardonnay Russian River Valley - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $30
Light golden color. On the nose, a shot of lime zest, green melon, honey butter and fresh white flowers. Creamy on the palate, but medium+ acid keeps it fresh. Green melon mixes with papaya and lime juice, and there’s some hazelnut and honeycomb, but it’s not overwhelming. Floral and mineral notes carry the finish, which ends with a combination of zesty acid and honey. Complex and very pretty. Aged six months in French oak, about 40% new. (90 points)

2012 J Vineyards & Winery Chardonnay Estate - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $28
Generous aromas of white peach, baked pear, honeydew and honeysuckle. Full-bodied with a lot of creaminess and medium acid. This wine is all about the richness and complexity of the interwoven flavors: baked pear, yellow apple and apricot mix with toasted almond, whipped honey and something that reminds me of toast with butter and brown sugar. Long and creamy on the finish. This is a burly Chard, so don’t expect otherwise, but it’s very well made and shows lots of concentration and length. (89 points)

2012 Foppiano Chardonnay Estate Bottled - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $25
A light golden color. Nectarine and lime aromas burst from the glass, also some papaya, sea salt, a bit of honey butter. Medium+ bodied with moderate acid. Yellow apple, ripe pear and apricot blend nicely with the buttered rum and honeyed tea flavors. Bold, forward, with notes of nougat and hazelnut, but stays away from being burdensome. A hint of mineral or crushed rocks on the finish. (87 points)

2012 Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $35
Light gold color. Aromas show lots of white flowers, ocean air, lime and white peach. Plump mouthfeel, but the acid weaves it together. Green and yellow apple fruit, some lime, some white peach, but it’s got a lot of nerve and cut. Some lemon oil and honeycomb notes. The mineral and oyster shell notes are hitting the sweet spot for my palate. Combines rich sunshine with cold climate and the end result is a tangy but full wine. So clean and pure, just a beautiful Chardonnay. (91 points)

2011 Gloria Ferrer Chardonnay - California, Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $20
Color like a ripe banana peel. Ripe pear and apricot aromas, with some creamy, toasted nut notes and a hint of sea shell. Generous pear and yellow apple fruit, but the crisp acid makes this very easy to drink. Some almond shell, toasted bread, baked apple and honeycomb flavors add complexity, just a hint of sea breeze. Fleshy, ripe, but pleasantly balanced with a tangy finish. Fermented and aged in 100% French oak, with half of the wine undergoing maloactic fermentation. A great value. (88 points)

2012 Clarbec Chardonnay Greggarious Vineyard - California, Napa/Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $30
Bright yellow-gold color. Aromas of nectarine, banana, honeycomb and lime notes. Full-bodied on the palate with an oily mouthfeel, but crisp acid shows through. Flavors of golden apple, dried apricot and papaya combine with wax and honeycomb notes. Some banana nut and almond notes, along with some seashell and limestone. One of the heavier (14.8% alcohol) wines in the group but this is well-made and shows a lot of complexity. (89 points)

2012 Merryvale Chardonnay Starmont - California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $22
Aromas of white tea, apricot and honey. Fleshy on the palate, but crisp throughout. Apricot and white peach flavors blend well with honey, wax and white tea. Even with 100% maloactic fermentation and nine months in 19% new French oak, there isn’t a ton of emphasis on toast and cream. A fruit-focused wine, plump, full and fun. (86 points)

2012 Clos du Val Chardonnay Carneros - California, Napa Valley, Carneros
SRP: $28
White and yellow flowers jump out of the glass, along with orange, lime and white peaches, subtle notes of honeycomb and mineral. Medium+ bodied with a lovely creamy texture, all held together with medium acidity. Tangerine, white peach and green melon blend well with the honey, hazelnut and butterscotch tones, but this wine maintains elegance and balance. I also get some unique oyster shell and apple-cinnamon notes, which linger long on the finish. Very pretty. Aged 11 months in 20% new French oak. (90 points)

2011 Grgich Hills Chardonnay Estate Grown - California, Napa Valley
SRP $42
Rich golden color. Aromas of green pears, butter cream, white flowers, some coconut milk. Creamy on the body but persistent acid. Green apple, pear and melon flavors mix nicely with limestone, sea salt and chalk aspects. Balanced creamy and nutty notes, but the wine maintains a cool and clean aesthetic. Complex, nuanced, beautiful, begs for food. Aged 10 months in French oak, 40% new. (91 points)

2012 FEL Chardonnay - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $28
Light golden color. Lemon, creamy peach, some papaya, a bit more richness on the nose, but still has lots of sea shell. Bold approach on the palate, solid concentration, with flavors of papaya, yellow apple and orange peel. Medium acid helps it pull together. I get this note that reminds me of crushed peanut shells and white tea. Honeyed on the finish, but it’s still fresh. (88 points)

Wine Reviews: Grab Bag from Bulgaria, Brazil & South Africa

As a contributor for the daily wine blog Terroirist, I receive sample wines from all over the world. Some of the more varied and obscure samples aren’t easy to group together. Hence this catch-all report, which feautures wines from Brazil, Bulgaria, South Africa and other countries.

All wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. They’re organized in alphabetical order by country of origin. This post first appeared on Terroirist.

2012 Gnarly Head Malbec - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $12
Aromas of sweet berries, cherry cola and mocha. Fresh and berry-driven on the palate, with gobs of fruit and red licorice and red hot candies, along with some sweet vanilla and floral elements. Some earth undertones on the finish. Easy-drinking, fun, crowd-pleasing stuff, but not complex or evocative. (84 points)

N.V. Salton Intenso Brut - Brazil, Serra Gaúcha
SRP: $15
Gold color with medium bubbles. Aromas of whipped honey, roasted nuts and lemon zest. Creamy with fine bubbles and medium acid. Lemon zest and tart green pears, along with saline and oyster brine notes. Much lighter-bodied than Champagne or other New World Bruts, this reminds me more of a crisp Cremant d’Alsace. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. (86 points)

2011 Salton Chardonnay Virtude - Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Campanha
SRP: $22
A rich yellow color. Green and yellow apples on the nose, some honeysuckle, toasted marshmallow. Medium+ bodied, medium acid, this wine shows chunky pineapple and mango fruit, along with notes of honey, walnut and toffee. Not all richness and sunshine though, as some grapefruit peel and lemon come out on the finish. A fun, forward Chardonnay. (85 points)

2007 Salton Merlot Desejo - Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Vale dos Vinhedos
SRP: $25
On the nose, a tobacco leaf and rich soil note, with wild raspberries and red plums. Tart acid, a leaner profile, with fine, chalky tannins. Tart cranberries and raspberries lead the way, with undertones of dried leaves, cigar smoke and a flavor that reminds me of crushed nutshells. Very tart and tangy, not rich and silky, but it’s a well-made, food-friendly wine for sure. (87 points)

2009 Salton Talento - Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, Bento Gonçalves, Tuiuty
SRP: $22
Much darker on the nose, with black currants, loam, charcoal and vanilla. Medium-bodied, fresh acid combines with some gritty tannins. The black currant and dark plum fruit crackles on the palate. I get some dried leaves, black pepper, soy glaze and tobacco flavors. Drinking well now, but I think this could improve in the cellar. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Tannat. (87 points)

2011 Veni Vidi Vici Chardonnay - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
A very light straw color in the glass. Bright lemon, green apple, river stones and chalk. Light and tangy, like citrus water on the palate. Lemon, green apple peel and tangerine fruit mix with chalk and mineral. I like the brisk and clean approach, but the wine is still quite light and tastes a bit watered down. (81 points)

2012 Veni Vidi Vici Sauvignon Blanc - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
Medium straw color. Grapefruit and sea salt on the nose, along with some white peach and white flowers. High acid on the palate, medium bodied, with green apple peel, grapefruit and apricot. Light, fresh and clean, but lacking depth or intrigue. (83 points)

2011 Veni Vidi Vici Rosé - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
A watermelon-strawberry color. A huge amount of mineral on the nose, like smelling a rock quarry, also some sharp strawberry and lemon zest, along with some white pepper and an aroma that reminds me of sweet pickle relish, seriously. Tangy acid on the palate, this is a bright and brisk wine. I love the wild strawberry and snappy cranberry fruit. Lots of minerals and white pepper in this wine, with some pickle and earth qualities as well. Crisp, clean and pleasant, a Bulgarian rosé that tastes unique, as it should. 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Syrah. (87 points)

2011 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Noir - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
A light ruby color. Juicy cherries and cranberries on the nose, some red flowers and rhubarb. Medium bodied, tangy acid, a very floral and focused wine, but enough bright red currants and strawberries. Some earth, wet moss and tobacco notes. So fresh, this is one of the better wines I’ve tasted from this producer, and a solid bargain at $9. I’d love to put this on a by-the-glass list because it’s got some broad appeal and a lot of value. (86 points)

2009 Veni Vidi Vici Cabernet Sauvignon - Bulgaria, Thracian Valley
SRP: $9
Medium ruby color. Smoky and earthy on the nose, like black currants topped with campfire ash and dusty earth. Medium tannins, crisp acid, the currant fruit is tart and crunchy. Earthy, some cedar and cracked pepper. Not too deep or thrilling, but for a bargain-priced Cab this is quite nice. (85 points)

N.V. Blandy Madeira Malmsey 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
SRP: $30 (375 ml bottle)
Smells of yellow raisins, caramel, honey, candied pecans and dried apricots. Classic Malmsey richness with some nutty, nougat and caramel sweetness, but lots of dried apricot, mango and mixed nuts. Still fresh though, with a long finish reminiscent of dried flowers, sea brine, saline and pineapple cake. A lot going on, this begs for hard cheeses, dried fruits and mixed nuts. (90 points)

2012 Seven Springs Chardonnay Over the Mountain - South Africa, Overberg
SRP: $16
A light yellow color. On the nose, I get kiwi, tangerine, lime, a bit of cream and a chalky-mineral aspect. The acid really rocks on this wine, providing freshness to the creamy tangerine, kiwi and green pear fruit. There’s a complex mix of chalk, mountain stream, minerals and white flowers. The creaminess comes out a bit on the finish, but this wine is anything but heavy. Full of flavor and intensity, but still maintains an elegant edge. A delicious and lively unoaked Chardonnay. (90 points)

This label, designed for the American market, is loaded with value.

2011 Seven Springs Sauvignon Blanc Over the Mountain - South Africa, Overberg
SRP: $16
Nose of white peach, green pear, honeysuckle a hint of green grass. Medium+ acid on the palate. A bit of creaminess-waxy elements to the mouthfeel. Tangy, mineral-driven wine with green apple and green pear fruit, backed up by a sage and white pepper note. Not overly grassy, this actually shows some sea brine elements that I quite like. (87 points)

2011 Seven Springs Pinot Noir Over the Mountain - South Africa, Overberg
SRP: $20
Clear light ruby color. Lovely nose of bright roses, red cherries, strawberries, pepper and underbrush. Again with this producer, it seems like you’re gonna get tangy acid, which I love. Bright red fruits (cherries, strawberries, cranberries) mix with pepper, roasted chestnut, clay soil and dried roses. Old world notes. On the lighter side, but not weak. Love the red flowers here. (88 points)

2010 Seven Springs Syrah Over the Mountain - South Africa, Overberg
SRP: $20
Dark, vibrant purple color. The blackberry and currant fruit smell like they’ve been rolled in pepper and thrown on the grill. High acid and firm grip to the tannins. Tangy plums and black currants blend well with campfire smoke and rich soil aspects. I get some pepper and steak sauce on the finish, but the acid helps it tread lightly on the palate. (88 points)

2012 Campo Viejo Garnacha Rioja - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $12
A dull ruby color. Aromas of ripe cherries, strawberries, red licorice and toast. Easy-drinking tannins and fresh acid blend with juicy black cherries and plums. Some smoke and dark roast coffee, and a flavor that reminds me of red hot candies and red licorice. Fun, party-friendly wine. (84 points)

2012 Bodega Garzón Albariño - Uruguay

SRP: $17

Aromas of green melon, lychee and some floral notes (orange blossom, honeysuckle). Juicy and tropical on the palate (pineapple, apricot, green melon), along with some floral notes. Creamy, lacking just a bit on the acidity for my palate, but a fun, summer sipper. (86 points)

2013 Bodega Garzón Sauvignon Blanc - Uruguay
SRP: $17
Slight spritz in the glass, with a pale straw color. Aromas of grapefruit, spiced tea and green olives, as strange as that may sound. Tangy and fresh on the palate. The white peach and orange peel blends with jalapeno, white pepper and lemongrass flavors. Crisp, herbal, but more body than your average New Zealand Sauv Blanc. Very food friendly. (87 points)

Virginia Wines & Robert Wiedmaier's Food

I first met Chef Robert Wiedmaier at a the home of renown wine importer Bobby Kacher earlier this year during a tasting lunch with several French winemakers. A man in the kitchen was cooking up some risotto, slicing salmon and otherwise making the house smell amazing. I didn’t recognize him immediately, but when I realized who he was, I nerded out. I stuttered a bit before saying something dumb, like, “You’re Robert Wiedmaier? Wow, I’m a huge fan!”

Robert is a big, affable guy with a firm handshake and an all-around awesome personality. I’ve long been a fan of his restaurants, especially the mussels and beverage selections at Brasserie Beck and Mussel Bar & Grille. So I was excited when I was invited to attend a wine dinner in March at Robert’s flagship restaurant, Marcel’s in Washington, DC.

Chef Robert Wiedmaier at work on some
canapes in London. Photo credit: Marcel's. 

The dinner was designed as a dry run for a similar event Robert was conducting the next week at the U.S. Embassy in London. The seven-course meal included dishes like pan seared scallop with black fermented garlic and squid ink, roasted pigeon with potato risotto and black truffle, and plum tarragon tart with honey and cinnamon ice cream. Yeah, the food was epic.

Considering this meal was designed for Brits, Robert could’ve arranged to pair the food with white and red Burgundy, which would’ve been spectacular with the rich but delicate food. He could’ve served aged Rhone wines, or maybe some high-end California wines. But Robert chose the accompaniment of Virginia’s finest.

What better way to get consumers excited about Virginia wines than pairing them with Robert’s incredible dishes? Hat’s off, Robert! I think it’s great that he chose to promote Virginia wines and serve them alongside his food. So much of the food comes from local sources, so why not the wine?

I’m a fan of Virginia wine, and every year there is more and more of it to explore. Virginia wines have never been better, and there’s good reason to believe that the glory days are still ahead.

The wines were presented by guest sommelier Jason Tesauro, who did a great job explaining how various grape varieties fair in Virginia and the unique aspects of the state’s winegrowing regions.

Here are my notes on a delicious evening.

2008 Trump Winery Blanc de Blancs Kluge SP - Virginia, Central Region, Albemarle County
Bready on the nose with lemon peel and seashell notes. Firm acid on the palate with lemon and lime, green apple peel, creamy and mineral notes add complexity. I enjoyed this more than the bottle I had in mid-2012, as this showed a bit more complexity and nuance. (87 points)

2012 Chatham Vineyards Church Creek Steel Chardonnay Eastern Shore - Virginia, Eastern Region, Eastern Shore
I have little experience with Eastern Shore Chardonnays, but this one has a lot to like. Smells like fresh green apples, tangerine, honeysuckle, sea shells. Medium-bodied with creamy apple, honey and apricot flavors. Clean, fresh, floral, this stainless steel Chardonnay isn’t complicated but it’s very well done. (87 points)

2013 Boxwood Winery Estate Rosé - Virginia, Northern Region, Loudoun County
Light salmon colored. So perfumed on the nose, with notes of red apple, strawberry and chalk. Medium-bodied, creamy but fresh acid. Juicy red apple, strawberry, all sorts of fruit blossoms, some slight pepper, and ocean note. One of my favorite wines of the evening. (88 points)

2012 Ingleside Albariño - Virginia, Eastern Region, Northern Neck
Faulty. All sorts of dried nail polish going on. Oops. (Flawed)

2012 Linden Sauvignon Blanc Avenius - Virginia, Northern Region
Love the freshness on the nose: sea salt, grapefruit, dandelion, orange blossom. Creamy texture, acid is fresh, I get fleshy white peach and apricot fruit mixed in with notes of white pepper. I wish Linden’s Avenius Chard found a way into this tasting, because I love that wine, but this is still a solid Sauvignon Blanc. Fleshy, creamy, some nice spice but not too herbaceous. (86 points)

2012 King Family Vineyards Viognier - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello
Honey, flowers and sea shell aromas. Juicy on the palate with white peach, golden apple and floral notes. Creamy finish. Clean, fresh, tangy finish, I like this style of Viognier. (87 points)

2012 White Hall Vineyards Viognier - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello
Flowers, peaches and banana aromas. Bold on the palate with a rich texture, flavors of pineapple, lychee, banana, some peanut and floral notes. (85 points)

2012 Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir - Virginia
Light ruby color. Juicy berries on the nose, rhubarb, notes of white pepper and red licorice candy. Bright and fresh on the palate, fine tannins, juicy cherry fruit. Notes of rhubarb, pepper and earth add complexity. Not incredibly deep or profound, but a really solid and promising Virginia Pinot Noir for sure. (88 points)

2012 Veritas Vineyard Cabernet Franc - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello
Smells like sweet berry compote, cedar, mulling spices and a soy note. Fresh and juicy on the palate with sweet strawberries and cherry fruit. Very mild tannins and brisk acid, a bit lacking in depth but some nice pepper notes on the finish. (85 points)

2010 Breaux Vineyards Nebbiolo Barrel Select - Virginia, Northern Region, Loudoun County
Spicy nose with dark berries and a bit of alcohol. I get a lot of red fruit, even some red apple peel and white cherries. The wine is very big (16% alcohol) with medium tannins and acid. Some nice spice and tobacco undertones. I’ve liked some Virginia Nebbiolo, and this is good, but it’s not what I was expecting. (85 points)

2010 Williamsburg Winery Adagio - Virginia
Smells like a campfire, with notes of sweet blackberry jam. Rich on the palate with fine tannins and a silky mouthfeel. Sweet plums, mocha, smoke and spices. A full and jammy style but it’s so well made. Big-time deliciousness factor. 42% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 28% Petit Verdot, aged 14 months in French, Hungarian and American oak, about 40% new. (88 points)

2010 Boxwood Winery Boxwood - Virginia, Northern Region, Loudoun County
Juicy red and black fruit on the nose, some mocha as well. Fresh and silky on the palate with great balance. Love the jubilant red and black fruit, and the notes of mocha, cedar soil and earth give it lots of complexity. Very tasty stuff, showing complexity and elegance. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot. My wine of the night. (89+ points)

2010 Barboursville Vineyards Octagon - Virginia, Central Region, Monticello
The black cherry aromas are laced with olive, smoke, earth and charcoal. Fine tannins and fresh acid on the palate, the fruit is ripe and opulent but not overdone. Black cherries and mixed berries, roses, smoke, cedar, also some black olive and dried floral notes. Long, silky, complex, another great Octagon from Barboursville. Merlot, Cab Franc, Cabernet and Petite Verdot. (89 points)

2008 Barboursville Vineyards Malvaxia Passito - Virginia
Honey and almond past on the nose. Very honeyed on the palate, with apricot jam and almond paste. I like the acid here, keeps it from being cloying. (85 points)

Video From My Wine Trip to Languedoc-Roussillon

In January, I spent five days wine tasting my way through the Languedoc-Roussillon region of Southern France. The trip was organized by SudVinBio, an association of organic Languedoc-Roussillon winemakers, and centered around the Millésime Bio Fair in Montpellier.

I was joined by a group of wine writers (including Alder Yarrow and W. Blake Gray) and sommeliers from the United States and Canada. We kicked off the trip with two days of vineyard tours in the Roussillon, where I experienced more than my share of the intense and persistent Tramontane winds. After the vineyard tours, we spent a few days at the Bio Fair in Montpellier, a trade show with more 700 organic winemakers from 12 countries.I brought my GoPro camera with me, which I usually use for surfing. But I figured I'd try my hand at some "extreme wine tourism" video. I'm no professional videographer, but I had a lot of fun with this. The video box here is quite small, so for a better picture click the full-screen mode once you play the video.

Cheers!