2012 + Siduri + Hirsch Vineyard = Excellence

2012 was a wonderful vintage in Sonoma, producing bold, structured, deep wines. Siduri is a long-time producer of the highest order. And the Hirsch Vineyard, located in the coastal Sonoma appellation of Fort Ross-Seaview, is home to some stunning Pinot Noir. Combine the three, and I knew I was in for one hell of a good wine.

It did not disappoint. I visited Siduri a few years ago for an extensive tasting, and had a total blast (my post can be found here). This was the last bottle I brought back from that tasting some four years ago, and I'm glad I held onto it. The wine has at least a few more years of development, but it showed wonderfully. I picked it up for $55, so it wasn't cheap, but worth every penny.

2012 Siduri Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview
Dark ruby color. Aromas of juicy red currants, cherries, mixed with rhubarb, wild herbs, creosote, clove, pepper, lots going on! Medium/full-bodied with plenty of weight and structure but the tannins are accessible and the acidity is fresh. Plump but tangy red an black cherry fruit, along with clove, rose petals, rhubarb, spicy herbs. Hints of mushroom and sage will peek out more with time, this will be even better in three years or so but still very good now. (92 points)

Kita: Stunning Santa Ynez Wines With a Restrained Style

Tara Gomez. Credit: Kita Wines.

Tara Gomez, winemaker at Kita wines, has been on a tear for quite a few years now. She crafts an array of varietal wines and blended wines that all share a similar aesthetic: lower alcohol, crisp acidity, bright fruit, less obvious new oak influence, tons of non-fruit complexity. I’ve been tasting these wines for a few years, and they never fail to thrill my senses.

Most of Kita’s grapes are sourced from the Camp 4 Vineyard, a massive vineyard (with more than 250 acres of vines) that is home to 19 different grape varieties. Originally planted by Fess Parker in 1999, the vineyard was purchased by the Santa Ynez Band of the Chumash Indians in 2010. With a scholarship from the tribe, Tara studied enology Cal State Fresno, before working at Fess Parker and J. Lohr. She became winemaker of the newly-formed Kita Wines, and says she views making wine from the tribe’s vineyard as a way of giving back to her community.

This sandy loam soil vineyard sits at the easternmost edge of Santa Ynez Valley, close to Happy Canyon, and produces some incredible Rhone and Bordeaux grape varieties. By harvesting with lower potential alcohol, and judicious use of new oak, the vibrancy of Tara’s wines shines through. And the Pinot and Chardonnay she sources from the Santa Rita Hills are also stunning. So if you’re a fan of the so-called “New California Wine” (as John Bonné lays out in his book), you should definitely check out these wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2015 KITÁ Chardonnay Hilliard Bruce Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $30
Pale yellow color. What a nose! So many white and yellow flowers, lots of chalk dust, seashells, notes of lime, kumquat and apricot — complex and lovely to sniff. Gorgeous acidity, it tingles the palate but the wine provides plenty of texture on a medium-bodied frame (12.8% alcohol). Key lime pie flavors, lemon curd, apricot, the fruit is mixed with pretty notes of white tea, honey, chalk and minerals, also some hay and almond. Tastes effortlessly pretty, even though a ton of effort obviously went into crafting this Chardonnay. I’d love to see what four-to-five years does to this wine. This spends six months in French oak, 14% new. (92 points)

2016 KITÁ Sauvignon Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $24
Rich yellow color. Aromas are bursting with kiwi, gooseberry, lots of lemongrass, sliced jalapeno and green herbs. On the palate, this is medium-bodied with fresh acidity and a rich, creamy texture. Lemon curd, guava, kiwi, the fruit mixes with honey, white tea, sliced jalapeno. I also get nettle, hints of perfume and candlewax, some almond. Lots going on here! This sees 14% new French oak for six months. (89 points)

2015 KITÁ T'aya Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $22
Light gold color. Pretty and exotic aromas of white peach, yellow apples, honeysuckle, orange blossom, ginger. Refreshing and bright but plenty of mouth-filling texture on a medium-bodied frame (13.5% alcohol). Oranges, guava, white peach and banana are mixed with peanut shell, raw almond, candle wax, honeycomb, candied ginger. A lingering sense of salinity. So crisp and refreshing for a California white Rhone blend. A blend of 57% Marsanne, 40% Roussanne, 3% Grenache Blanc, which spends six months in French oak, 14% new. (91 points)

The stunning Camp 4 Vineyard, from which Kita sources most of its grapes. Credit: Kita Wines.

2014 KITÁ Pinot Noir Hilliard Bruce Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $55
Pale ruby color. Nose shows tart strawberries, sour cherries, red apples, and lots of herbal tea, white pepper and roses. Medium-bodied with silky tannins and lip-smacking acidity, such great depth for a lighter-styled Pinot. Apples, strawberries, cranberries, the fruit is tangy and crunchy and laced with basil, white pepper, herbal tea, tobacco and rose hips. So pretty, lean but not weak, light but shows such balance. 12.8% alcohol, this sees 20% new French oak for 18 months. (93 points)

2014 KITÁ Spe'y Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $30
Deep ruby color. Such a pretty aromatic display: red plums and currants, so much dusty earth, leather, bay leaf, pepper, sage, violets, perhaps mistakable for a lighter-style Chateauneuf. Medium+ bodied (13.5% alcohol) with structured but lightly dusty tannins, crisp acidity throughout. Red currants mix with black cherries and dark plum skins, add in some cowhide, black pepper, sage, red clay, an underlying mineral presence. Just wow. Delicious now but should evolve nicely for three to six years, easily. Lip-smacking, complex, a Rhone-inspired blend of 55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 20% Carignan, aged 18 months in 20% new French oak. (93 points)

2014 KITÁ Kalas Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $40
Light purple. Aromas of smoky charcoal, scorched earth, herbal tea, eucalyptus, on top of tart red and black currants. Medium+ bodied with dry tannins and moderating acidity. Tart red and black currants and plums mix well with notes of loamy soil, fallen leaves, grilled mushroom, hints of coffee and cedar are hidden behind. Lots of depth but very alive and pretty. This should improve for three-to-five easily. 13.5% alcohol, 48% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2014 KITÁ Cabernet Sauvignon Camp 4 Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
SRP: $40
Dark ruby colored. Smells of tart red and black currants, scorched earth and eucalyptus with black peppercorns and grilled herbs. Medium-to-full-bodied with structured but fine tannins, refreshing acidity, and lots of crunchy, tangy red and black fruit (plums, currants). The complex elements of earth, tobacco, pepper, graphite and charcoal are impressive, and the wine shows depth but also freshness. Lots to unpack in the cellar over the next ten years. Aged 18 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: New Releases from California

This week I’m back with another round-up of new releases from all over California.

The Quilt wines are a new brand from Copper Cane, Joe Wager's project, sourced from various Napa appellations. This is a higher-level brand, with some gutsy pricing, but the deliciousness delivers. In keeping with the company style of producing bold, decadent wines, these are massive and highly delicious examples.

J. McClelland is producing some exciting wines from Napa’s Oak Knoll appellation, three of which I tasted for this report. Named for John McClelland, who spent 50+ years making wine in California for labels like Steele Canyon Cellars, these are moderately priced but very high quality wines.

The Malibu-based winery Dolin Estate wowed me with two impressive offerings, especially the Blue Note red blend from a Malibu Coast vineyard. We also have some reliably delicious wines from Napa’s Frank Family, a stunning Cabernet from Grgich Hills, and some Zinfandel from Dry Creek.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 J. McClelland Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll

SRP: $35
Rich yellow color. Aromas of yellow pears, juicy green apples, buttered toast, a host of honey and floral tones. Creamy and plush texture with vibrant acidity makes a balanced but bold Chardonnay. Lime drizzled on apricots and baked pears, followed up with integrated elements of almond, nougat and butter with some mineral dust on the finish. Delicious, long, impressive depth. 30% barrel-fermented, aged in oak for 12 months. (90 points)

2014 Dolin Estate Chardonnay Bien Nacido - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $39
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, apricot, melted butter, graham cracker. Full-bodied with pleasant creaminess and fresh acidity. Rich but pure and vibrant with lime, apricot, bruised apple, richer elements of toasted nuts, lemon curd and honey mix well with sea salt and chalk dust. Packed with flavor, delicious but so lively. Fermented in 1/3 new French oak, 100% maloactic fermentation, aged 13 months in oak. (90 points)

2015 Quilt Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $35
Light gold color. Nose shows buttercream, lemon cake, key lime pie, yellow flowers, some chalk notes. Decadent, full-throttle style, this is but partially balanced out by quite fresh acidity. Bruised apple and rich yellow pear fruit mixes with roasted peanuts, candied pecans and orange marmalade flavors. 15 months in 70% new French oak, all maloactic fermentation, this is a burly style, but a delicious expression of Napa Chardonnay. (88 points)

2015 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $35
Rich yellow color. Aromas of almond paste, whipped honey, buttercream, but also peaches and pears drizzled with lime. On the palate, this is bold but balanced, creamy but moderate acidity. Bruised apple, peach, apricot, rich fruit but stays fresh. Pretty yellow flowers, clover, honeysuckle, lemon curd, notes of peanut brittle and buttercream are mixed together well. A Chardonnay that should please many a palate, fermented and aged in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2016 Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $12
Medium watermelon color. Juicy red apples and watermelon on the nose with some white pepper, basil and green tea leaves. Medium-bodied, moderate acidity, fleshy texture with flavors of cherries and watermelon. Notes of white pepper and basil mix with whipped honey and cream notes. Tasty, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points)

2015 Frank Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $35
Deep ruby/light purple color. Nose shows spiced cranberry jam, black cherries, rhubarb, rose hips, chewing tobacco. Fleshy texture with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Juicy red plums, Thanksgiving cranberry sauce, rhubarb pie, rose petals, pepper. This is ripe and plush but fresh, earthy, complex, and it finishes with notes of cocoa and clove. Two to four years could do interesting things for this wine, but shows well right out of the bottle. 10 months in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2012 Dolin Estate The Blue Note - California, South Coast, Malibu
SRP: $45
Light purple color. Awesome aromas of black cherries, raspberry jam, roasted fig, coffee, candied pecans. Lovely balance on the palate with bold texture, velvety tannins, moderate acidity keeps it fresh. Tart plum, blackberry, the fruit is loaded with coffee, charcoal, tar, cedar and cola. This was an eye-opening wine for me in the sense that it was absolutely delicious, showed solid balance, lots of depth, and it’s the first wine from this area I’ve tasted. A blend of 44% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in oak. The vineyard sits 1,450 feet above the Malibu coast. Intriguing and special stuff. (91 points)

2013 J. McClelland Merlot - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll

SRP: $35
Light purple color. Rich, pretty aromas of violets, sweet pipe tobacco and cola on top of juicy red and black cherries and plums. Full but not heavy with velvety tannins and moderate acidity. Dark plums, tart black cherries, the fruit meshes with tobacco, violets, potting soil and notes of cedar and vanilla. This could unfurl for a few years, but it’s good to go now, although it really opens up with air. Includes 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine spends 28 months in French oak. (90 points)

2013 J. McClelland Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll
SRP: $45
Light purple color. Nose shows juicy blackberries, saucy dark currant, and a whole lot of chewing tobacco, mint, coffee grounds, fallen leaves, bell pepper – the aromas are complex and firing. Full-bodied on the palate with nice grip to the tannins with medium acidity to balance it all out. Tart but rich black currants and black cherry fruit, and I love the level of earth and spice complexities: tobacco, mint, charcoal, charred herbs, bell pepper. Notes of cedar linger on the finish. Structure and depth are impressive but it maintains a spicy and fresh style, which balances out very nicely. (92 points)

2014 Frank Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $52
Light purple color. Tart black currants, black cherry, plum skins, mixed in with vanilla, cola, but also some mint, eucalyptus and spicy pepper. The palate shows dry but velvety tannins and some moderate acidity, surprising balance and freshness. The black cherry, tart blueberry and cassis fruit is fresh and vibrant but plenty ripe, and mixed with notes of tobacco, soy sauce, potting soil, and integrated cedar, vanilla and coffee notes. Yummy but also structured, this could do nicely with three to six years in the cellar, but delicious now. Includes 8% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, this wine is aged 20 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2014 Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $72
Rich purple color. Gorgeous aromatics of currants, dark plums, so much spicy, herbal and savory tones as well: pepper, sage, mint, dusty earth, leather, soy. Full and structured well with taut tannins and lively acidity. Gushing plums and tart currants glide over the palate despite the youthfulness of the wine. So much earth, charcoal, pepper, leather, sage, woven in with cedar, mocha and clove. Gorgeous stuff but built for the long haul, this is another killer vintage of a perennial performer (in my book). Includes 14% Merlot and a combined 7% Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in 60% new French oak. (93 points)

2013 Quilt Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $100
Bold purple color. Nose shows dark currants, black cherries, lots of violets, vanilla, graphite, charcoal, lots going on. Bold and ripe on the palate with gushing dark plums and blueberries on a frame of chewy tannins, plush mouthfeel, and moderate acidity that helps it from being too intense. Creamy vanilla, coffee, sweet pipe tobacco, roasted chestnut, this is an extracted, gushing style, but it’s all held together quite well, and straight delicious. 70% new oak, all Cabernet from valley floor fruit. (90 points)

2014 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $37
Deep ruby/light purple color. Dark and saucy red and black berry fruit on the nose, along with coffee beans, black pepper, tobacco, root beer and eucalyptus. Full-bodied, dry but rounded tannins, medium-low acidity. The palate is loaded with blackberry and raspberry, some roasted fig and plum cake, and mixed with cocoa, coffee, roasted chestnut, root beer and chewing tobacco. Hedonistic and rich but nuanced. Includes 14% Petite Sirah, this wine is aged 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. (89 points)

2014 Mounts Family Winery Zinfandel Old Vine - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $36
Rich ruby color. Aromas of dark cherries, jammy blackberry and raspberries, also cola, sweet barbecue, roasted chestnut and vanilla. Full-bodied and burly, this is a chewy, rich wine with velvety tannins and low acid, but it’s so delicious. Plump black cherries, jammy raspberries and blackberries, fig paste. I get complex notes of bourbon, cola, coffee, sweet barbecue sauce, black pepper. Big, bold, but quite nice. 15.8% alcohol, this spends 17 months in 60% new French oak. (88 points)

2014 Mauritson Wines Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $35
Light purple. Nose of fig paste, plum cake, black cherry ice cream, with some scorched earth mixed in. Full-bodied, so smooth, velvety tannins, low acidity, a chewy wine. Rich black fruit and roasted figs, laced with milk chocolate, sarsaparilla, roasted chestnut, also some earthy, peppery tones. A burly hedonistic Zinfandel for near-term consumption. All Zin, 14.6% alcohol, this spends 14 months in mostly French oak. (87 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Ankida Ridge Impresses with Virginia Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Ankida Ridge Vineyard. Credit: Christine Vrooman, Ankida Ridge

Virginia has built its reputation largely on Bordeaux-style blends, Chardonnay and Viognier, but Pinot Noir? At least one producer is making that case.

Last year, Ankida Ridge was the only Mid-Atlantic Pinot producer invited to participate in the prestigious International Pinot Noir Celebration in Oregon. That’s as close to Legit American Pinot Producer status one can obtain, and Ankida Ridge deserves it.

Dennis and Christine Vrooman, who have a veterinary practice in Virginia Beach, planted a vineyard at their vacation home in 2008. At 1,8000 feet in the Blue Ridge foothills near Amherst, VA, this was not an easy task.

“We totally did not know what to expect,” Christine said during a recent virtual tasting. “We wanted it to be something different than what everyone else was planting, because this site is so different.”

Because of the elevation, Christine said Ankida Ridge stays about 10 degrees cooler on summer afternoons that lower elevation sites. The site is made of decomposing granite on steep slopes, which makes for good drainage in an area that recent bouts of heavy rain. My parents own a mill house property about a half hour east of Ankida Ridge’s vineyards, and I’ve seen what summer rains can do to the mountains in Virginia — it’s insane. But, Christine said, “Our vines don’t get wet feet.” And when a vineyard consultant checked out their proposed vineyard site, they said, if Pinot Noir can be grown anywhere in Virginia, it’s here. So the Vroomans took the leap and planted a few acres.

Sometimes referred to by Virginia wine nerds as Virginia’s Little Burgundy, the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Ankida Ridge offer glimpses of Burgundian depth and elegance. The wines are lower in alcohol than many other Virginia wines, and they possess a sense of vibrant acidity that keeps my palate wanting more.

With their son Nathan as winemaker, Ankida Ridge now produces some 500 cases of wine per year, a very small amount, but they’re expecting production to double in the coming years.

Here are my notes on three Ankida Ridge wines I tasted…

2015 Ankida Ridge Rockgarden Vert - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Blue Ridge Foothills
SRP: $ 18
Lemon yellow color with slight effervescence. Aromas of lemon rind, lilies, honey and guava. Crisp and zesty on the palate with lively acidity and juicy tropical fruit (pineapple, guava). Notes of nettle and honeysuckle as well. Tangy finish, this is a simple wine but simply delicious. All Vidal Blanc made in a style as an homage to the wines of Vinho Verde. (86 points)

2015 Ankida Ridge Chardonnay - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Blue Ridge Foothills

SRP: $32
Medium yellow color. Nose shows yellow apples, apricot, lemon curd, along with hay, honeycomb, candle wax and floral perfume. Medium-bodied, only 12% alcohol but lots of depth and texture, and lots of vibrant acidity, so the result is an impressively balanced Chardonnay. Rich yellow apple and apricot jam mix with zesty lime, add in some honey, nougat, chalky minerals, white tea. Wow, this is high up there on my list of Virginia Chardonnays. A real beaut. Half maloactic fermentation, only 10% new French oak. 225 cases. (90 points)

2014 Ankida Ridge Pinot Noir - Virginia, Northern Virginia, Blue Ridge Foothills
SRP: $44
Pale ruby color. Nose shows sweet strawberries, tart cherries and cranberries, lots of rose petals, white pepper, sage and wildflower notes. On the palate I get a nice frame of light dusty tannins, crisp acidity, and a mix of sweet and tart red fruits. Lots of leather, chewing tobacco white pepper, soy, green herb notes, but some vibrant floral tones as well. Finishes crisp and vibrant – a delicious and impressive Pinot from Virginia. 250 cases. (89 points)

Fresh, Fascinating Wines from Australia's Bird in Hand

Credit: Bird in Hand. Adelaide Hills, Australia. 

We’re off to the Australia for this week, focusing on Bird in Hand wines. Hailing from the Adelaide Hills appellation, where their vineyards receive cooling influences from the Gulf of St. Vincent and the nearby Mount Lofty Range mountains, the wines are packed with fresh acidity in addition to gorgeous fruit. 

Founded in 1997 on what used to be a dairy farm, Bird in Hand wines are definitely worth checking out if you’ve long ago soured on heavy, low-acid, candied Australian wines.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Sparkling - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $25
A very pale copper color. Brisk and floral on the nose with white cherries, wild strawberries, red apple peel, baby’s breath, some sea salt. A vibrant and lip-smacking wine with vibrant tingly bubbles, but a whole lot of fruit: strawberry, juicy McIntosh apple, apricot and wild raspberries. Juicy but so vibrant, almost dry, with a complex mix of baby’s breath, lilies, sea salt, oyster shell, chalky mineral tones. An, intriguing and delicious Pinot Noir sparkler. (90 points)

2016 Bird in Hand Two in the Bush - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $16
Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, lime, kumquat, drizzled with seawater, chalk dust and spicy tomato leaf. Medium-bodied with zesty acidity and pure green apple and lime fruit mixed with some richer papaya and guava nectar. There’s a great combination of sea salt, chalk dust and minerals that pervade the wine, and I get complex elements of floral perfume and spiced tea. Complex and gorgeous but you’ll also want a second glass because it’s so damn fresh and fun to sip. A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Serious wine at a not-so-serious price. (90 points)

2015 Bird in Hand Chardonnay - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $25
Light gold color. Smells of limes, tangerines, white peaches with some almond, sea breeze and white floral tea notes. On the palate this shows precise acidity and plump texture on a medium-bodied frame. Lime drizzled on tangerines, peaches and yellow pears, the fruit is mixes with honey, almond, chamomile tea and chalk dusty. Fresh, vibrant, rich flavors of very nice balance. Indigenous yeast fermented and aged in 20% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Bird in Hand Chardonnay Nest Egg - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $65
Light gold color. Aromas of kiwi, lime, apricot and bruised yellow apple, along with a combination of salty/chalk notes with richer buttered toast and nougat. On the palate this has a plush, lees-stirred kind of texture but precise acidity, which keeps it fresh and together. Lime, papaya, apricot, it mixes well with sea salt, lemon verbena and some almond and buttery notes. Delicious yet complex, rich yet vibrant. French oak fermentation, lees stirring, maloactic fermentation, so it’s a bold style, but it’s balanced well with vibrant acidity and delicious fruit and non-fruit complexity. (92 points)

2015 Bird in Hand Shiraz - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $30
Dark purple color. Smells like tart black cherries, gushing blueberries, black olives, charred earth and cracked black pepper. Full-bodied (14.5%), this is fleshy and dark with moderate tannic grip, no rough edges, and surprisingly fresh acidity. Plum, black cherries and boysenberry, juicy and dark with smoky tar, black pepper, black olive, charcoal. Vanilla and coffee are woven in well. Bold but elegant and wonderfully well-balanced, solid now but will improve for at least a few years. Aged 16 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2013 Bird in Hand Shiraz Nest Egg - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
SRP: $85
Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose of currants, tart blueberries, blackberry jam, but not just fruit – lots of complex elements of graphite, anise, charcoal, black pepper, vanilla. Full-bodied with structured but rounded tannins and surprisingly vibrant acidity, which is one of my favorite aspects of this wine. Tart black cherry, blueberry and black currant mix well with anise, charcoal, violets, scorched earth and black pepper. Such freshness to balance out the bold fruit, and this has a lot of complex non-fruit elements going for it. Wow. Aged 18 months in French oak, this will improve for at least five or seven years. (93 points)
This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Malibu Winery Shows Southern California Can Produce Exceptional Wine

Vineyards thrive all over California. North, South, East, West, there are far more wine regions than the average consumer is aware of. Humboldt, El Dorado, Temecula… Malibu?

When I hear Malibu, I think of surfing, especially this time of year when Southern California is graced with frequently large swells from the Southern Hemisphere. Malibu’s legendary point break is one of the most famous (and crowded) in the state. But take a trek to higher inland ground, and, sure enough, there are grapevines.

I recently tasted my first wine from the Malibu Coast American Viticultural Area, and was really impressed. It hails from Malibu’s Dolin Estate, which overlooks the Pacific Ocean near the Pacific Coast highway. Elliott and Lynn Dolin decided to plant a small vineyard in the backyard of their Malibu home in 2006. This estate Chardonnay apparently turned out quite well, and Dolin Estate has been expanding since.

With Central Coast winemaker Kirby Anderson in the cellar, Dolin Estate also produces a Bordeaux-style blend from a site in Newton Canyon, four miles from the coast and 1,450 feet in elevation. There aren’t too many grapes around here, so Dolin also sources Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from some well-known Central Coast vineyards.

The wine I tasted is called the Blue Note, and it is killer. Elliott Dolin was a session bassist for jazz bands, so this wine (a Right Bank Bordeaux-inspired blend) pays homage to the iconic NYC jazz club, the Blue Note. Elliott also has plans for a Left Bank-inspired blend named after the West Coast club, The Troubadour.

The wines are available in some local bars and restaurants, local retailers, and online.

Below are my notes on two Dolin Estate wines I tasted recently.

2014 Dolin Estate Chardonnay Bien Nacido - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $39
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, apricot, melted butter, graham cracker. Full-bodied with pleasant creaminess and fresh acidity. Rich but pure and vibrant with lime, apricot, bruised apple, richer elements of toasted nuts, lemon curd and honey mix well with sea salt and chalk dust. Packed with flavor, delicious but so lively. Fermented in 1/3 new French oak, 100% maloactic fermentation, aged 13 months in oak. (90 points)

2012 Dolin Estate The Blue Note - California, South Coast, Malibu
SRP: $45
Light purple color. Awesome aromas of black cherries, raspberry jam, roasted fig, coffee, candied pecans. Lovely balance on the palate with bold texture, velvety tannins, moderate acidity keeps it fresh. Tart plum, blackberry, the fruit is loaded with coffee, charcoal, tar, cedar and cola. This was an eye-opening wine for me in the sense that it was absolutely delicious, showed solid balance, lots of depth, and it’s the first wine from this area I’ve tasted. A blend of 44% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, aged 21 months in French oak. The vineyard sits 1,450 feet above the Malibu coast. Intriguing and special stuff. (91 points)