California New Releases: Chardonnay & Pinot Noir

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – they grow together, and they go together. And, this week, I’ve got a fresh batch of Chards and Pinots from California.

In this report, I tasted two vintages of Chardonnay from Oceano, which is owned and operated by Rachel Martin of Virginia’s Boxwood Estate. The fruit is sourced from the slops of Price Canyon in San Luis Obispo County, and the vineyard is located less than two miles from the coast. The wines were fermented and aged at Caldwell Vineyards in Napa. These wines really impressed me with their lively, salty, oceanic vibes, and I’m excited to see they have a Pinot Noir coming soon, too.

I also tasted some new Anderson Valley releases from FEL, which is owned by Cliff Lede and used to be branded as Breggo years ago. I’ve followed these wines for a long time, and these new ones keep up a long tradition of rocking yet nuanced Pinot and Chard.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Oceano Chardonnay Spanish Springs Vineyard - California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
SRP: $38
Deep yellow color. Popping nose of pineapple, green melon, lemon meringue, with a burst of sea salt and ocean spray, along with spicy floral tea, honey and ginger. Full but not heavy, with vibrant, crisp acidity throughout, which works well with a deep, velvety texture. Flavors of tangerine, green melon, key lime pie, with ginger, honey and bread crumbs. A deep, crusty sea salt element, which I adore, lingers long on the finish. A beautiful balancing act of a Chardonnay. Aged 11 months in French oak, 15% maloactic fermentation. (92 points)

2017 Oceano Chardonnay Spanish Springs Vineyard - California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
SRP: $38
Deep yellow color. Nose bursts with green melon, lemon curd, guava, and a ton of sea salt and ocean breeze, crushed shells, some white tea and honeysuckle. Crisp yet vibrant, lovely texture on a medium/full-bodied frame, but it’s so zesty and the balance is lovely. Lemon, green apple, melon, tangerine, topped in sea salt, crushed shells, hints of toasted bread, vanilla and ginger. Very similar to the 2016 in style, this is kicking now but I’d love to give it a few years. (92 points)

2017 FEL Wines Chardonnay - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $32
Light gold color. Nose shows yellow pears, yellow apples, along with honey, salted almond, hay, sea spray, crushed shells. On the palate, this is medium-bodied with a rich yet precise texture, refreshing acidity. Yellow pears, apples, apricot, lemon curd, laced with honeysuckle, crushed shells and limestone, ginger, buttercream. There’s also this nice mineral depth, too. Pretty, complex, yet so delicious as well. Aged in neutral French oak for 10 months. (91 points)

2016 Mi Sueño Chardonnay - California, Napa, Carneros
SRP: $42
Light yellow color. Open and bold aromas of yellow pears and apples, lemon curd, with ginger, graham cracker, honey, some ocean spray and chalk. Deliciously full, rich and plump texture, but the acidity moderates it quite nicely. Big, oaky, yes (plenty of honey, almond, buttered biscuits) but there’s also significantly complex notes of sea salt, honeysuckle, chalk, all on top of glazed apples and pears. Deep, delicious, but also intriguing stuff. Aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Gehricke Pinot Noir Los Carneros - California, Sonoma County, Carneros
SRP: $32
Bright ruby color. Nose shows a mix of roses and violets, clove and rhubarb, on top of jammy raspberries and sweet black cherries. Juicy and ripe on the palate, medium/full-bodied with soft, smooth tannins and moderating acidity. Black cherries, raspberry jam, juicy plums, rich and generous in texture and flavor but it’s quite complex, especially for a wine at this price point, with notes of cola, herbal tea, coffee and toffee. Aged 20 months in French oak, this wine really delivers for the price. (88 points)

2016 FEL Pinot Noir Donnelly Creek Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

SRP: $65
Dark ruby color. Bright aromas of black cherries, raspberries, with cola, rose petals and a cool, spicy/herbal mix: pepper, dandelion, eucalyptus, mint. Full frame on the palate, structured well but the tannins have some smoothness to them, too, and the acidity is bright. Jammy raspberries, chilled plums, mixed with roasted earth, chestnut, cracked pepper, rose potpourri, with cedar and clove notes. Very pretty, with a lot of depth, this could blossom well over a few years. Aged 16 months in 20% new French oak. (91 points)

2016 FEL Pinot Noir Ferrington Vineyard - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $65
Deep ruby color. The aromas pop with red currant, raspberries and strawberries, cherry pie (lots of fruit!) but also some interesting notes of rose petal, clove, pine forest, black tea. Medium/full-bodied with a velvety feel and lip-smacking acidity. Juicy cherries, raspberries, candied red apple, the fruit is mixed with a nice mélange of black tea, roses, anise, bay leaf, dusty earth. Deep yet crisp, there’s a lot to uncover here in the next three-to-six years. Aged 15 months in 37% new French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Digging into Colorado Wine with the 2018 Governor's Cup Winners

Back for the fourth time, I’m digging into some wines from the state of Colorado. Yep, it’s more than just good beer in the Centennial State.

I recently tasted through the winners of the 2018 Colorado Governor’s Cup. Like Virginia’s renowned Governor’s Cup, the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board kicked off a similar program in 2011. In 2018, 46 Colorado wineries submitted 344 wines to the competition. These wines were judged by a panel of somms, chefs, writers, and wine experts, including Warren Winiarski. They chose a baker’s dozen worth of winning wines.

Colorado is a huge state, but it doesn’t crack the top 10 states in terms of wine production. The state’s winegrowing regions boast plenty of sunshine, low humidity, diverse soils, offering up plenty of opportunity to grow quality wine grapes. And, fun fact: the state’s two American Viticultural Areas (Grand Valley and West Elks, located in the western part of the state) are the highest elevation appellations in the country. 

More and more, it seems to me, Colorado winemakers are not afraid to experiment and strike their own path, like Infinite Monkey Theorem’s quirky blends and branding aesthetic, and Red Fox’s Teroldego in this report. This is the most impressive batch of Colorado wines I’ve tasted yet. Now, to get out there for some tourism.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Colterris Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé “Coral” - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $22
Pale salmon color. Nose shows white peaches, white cherries, white lemon verbena, sea salt, white pepper and cut flower stems. Crisp acidity on the palate but a nice, plump texture, the balance is quite nice. White cherries, watermelon, peach, lemon, a nice fruit salad topped in white pepper, sea salt, honeysuckle, a slight tobacco note. Really balanced and fresh and fun. (87 points) 

2017 Whitewater Hill Riesling - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Lots of peach nectar, apricot, candied orange peel, along with honeycomb, lychee and floral perfume. Medium-bodied, moderate acidity, there’s significant sweetness in here, but it’s not too heavy. Pineapple, peach and mango nectar, with sweet floral perfume, orange blossoms, sugar cane and candied ginger. It finishes clean and with notes of minerals and mountain stream, and the sweetness is balanced quite nicely. (86 points)

2016 Bookcliff Vineyards Tempranillo - Colorado
SRP: $19
Light purple color. Super spicy on the nose with tart, dark currants, spiced cranberry sauce, along with leather, clove, black pepper and musk. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, the tannins are structured and provide serious grip, but the acidity helps balance them out. Black cherries and tart currants mix with a host of pepper, tar, coffee, clove, and there’s this sandy, rocky, earthy undertone that is lovely. Could use at least a few years to unwind, but the concentration and quality is there. (87 points)

2015 Bookcliff Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Concentrated aromas of black cherries and currants, with coffee and cedar, notes of tar, tobacco, sage and creosote. Fresh acidity frames the wine nicely, but the tannins provide serious structure. Black cherries and blackberry fruit, dark, deep and tart, mixed with earth, graphite. Oak, cedar, coffee notes are strong but the fruit is concentrated enough that it all works, and I love the black pepper and sage notes on the finish. Could do well with three-to-five years of age. (88 points) 

2016 Infinite Monkey Theorem Cabernet Franc - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Light purple color. Really interesting nose, like tart black cherries and wild raspberries with lots of rosebush, clove, tobacco, mesquite and scorched earth. Medium-bodied on the palate, the tannins give structure but show smooth edges, and the acidity rally pops, from start to finish. Vibrant red and black cherry fruit, wild raspberry, spicy cranberry sauce, with notes of clove, cinnamon, and lots of rose hips and leathery stuff. Complex and interesting, this is a really zippy, different kind of Cab Franc, worth checking out! I’d love to see how it ages over the next few years. (90 points)

2016 Red Fox Cellars Teroldego - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $40
Bright purple color. Whoa, what a burst of sweet plums, cherries, with roasted coffee and candied pecan notes. Fresh acidity, really zippy here, on a medium-bodied frame with velvety mouthfeel and a nice line between silky and tangy. Tart cranberry meets sweet plums and back cherries, the fruit is juicy but really vibrant. Notes of pepper, herbal tea, oak, coffee, it’s woven together very nicely. Ready to drink now, really versatile stuff. (88 points)  

2016 Colterris Petit Verdot - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Bold purple color. Nose shows dark and concentrated elements of black cherries and currants, topped in pepper, leather, magic marker and charcoal. Grippy, concentrated and dark on the palate but the acidity is surprisingly vibrant. A core of tart dark currant and plum fruit blends well with smoky charcoal, mesquite-grilled beef, pen ink, dark chocolate. This could use some years in the cellar to unwind, but a well-done and interesting take on this variety. (87 points) 

2016 Colterris Merlot Riverside Vineyard - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $45
Deep ruby color. Aromas of tangy black cherries, juicy plums, raspberry jam, with roasted chestnut and violets. Big and full on the palate (15.2% alcohol) with velvety tannins and vibrant acidity, so it all fits together quite nicely. Juicy raspberries, black cherry jam, yummy and Zinfandel-esque fruit but it’s fresh, too. Nots of violets, roasted herbs, chestnut, coffee and cedar. Drinking really well right now. Highly delicious. (88 points) 

2016 Monkshood Cellars Syrah White Water Vineyard - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $44
Bright, almost neon purple color. Nice aromatic combination of tart blueberries, black currants, sweet plums, along with smoky menthol, tar, graphite, mint. On the palate, bright acidity rips in, supported by strong tannins, this is a young wine but has a lot of tanginess and depth. Tart currants, black cherries, some pomegranate, loaded with elements of smashed rocks, minerals, charcoal, charred herbs, cocoa, a lot going on here. A bit austere in its youth perhaps, but I think this will be singing in about five years. Impressive stuff. (89 points)

 2016 Snowy Peaks Winery Eleve - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $24
Light purple color. Whoa, what a spicy aromatic display: black pepper, beef bouillon cubes, leather, tobacco and mint along with tangy black cherries and plums. Grippy tannins meet bright acidity on a medium-bodied frame. Juicy and tangy red and black cherries, the acidity really rips through. Lots of spicy, beefy, pepper, earthy, leathery notes that I’m really enjoying, with violets and coffee, too. I’d love to revisit this in 4-5 years. A spicy and exciting blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Mourvedre from vineyards some 7,500 feet above sea level. (89 points) 

1999 Colorado Cellars Colorado Port - Colorado
SRP: $40/500ml
Medium ruby color. Lovely aromas of spiced cranberry jelly, candied cherries, berry compote, with roses, clove and black tea. Full and sweet, smooth tannins, but it sports some moderating acidity. The tawny-style elements of gingerbread, candied ginger and apricot marmalade mix well with darker elements of dates, candied cherries. There’s an earthy, clove, spiced coffee note that is woven in really well. I am quite impressed with this Colorado dessert wine! (88 points) 

2017 Carlson Vineyards Gewürztraminer Laughing Cat - Colorado, Grand Valley
SRP: $15
Medium yellow color. Aromas of sweet peaches, guava nectar, honey, spiced white tea, some herbal tea notes. Plump texture, the sweetness isn’t too heavy, there’s moderating acidity that keeps it refreshing. Flavors of sweet apricot jam, guava, peaches, mixed with honey, spiced white tea and nettle. I’m really impressed with how well this shows at the price point. (85 points)

<85 points
2016 Carlson Vineyards Plum Wine - Colorado
SRP: $15
 Bright strawberry colored. Nose shows fresh pears, peaches, glazed with honey, topped in some rose hips and herbal tea. The palate is where things go off course (for me). Plump, medium acidity, sweet and sugary with flavors of apricot skin and peach pits. Strawberries and Southern sweet tea elements are quite strong. The sweetness and flavors aren’t lining up for me but I could see this being popular with some.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Wine Reviews: American Grab Bag

This week, I have some wine reviews from New York, California, and Washington.

If you know Finger Lakes wine, you know Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant who contributed so much to viticulture in this country. By producing exceptional wines, and showing what Riesling could do in the Finger Lakes, he earned his spot in the canon of trail-blazing American winemakers. All these years later, the wines are still examples of excellence in American wine.

Napa’s Gratus, contributed wines for this report. This Pope Valley project began in 2010, and the winery now produces about 600 cases per year. These wines were new to me, but I found them vibrant, delicious, and expressive.

Respected Washington producer Tamarack Cellars recently released a 2013 “Emerald Release” Cabernet that blew my mind, and I think it would be a great addition to any Washington Cabernet collector’s cellar.

A few other wines round out this week’s report. I received these wines as trade samples and tasted them sighted.

2017 La Crema Pinot Gris - California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. Nose shows white peaches, lemon curd, orange blossoms and whipped honey notes. Crisp acidity frames the palate nicely, while the wine sports a waxy, plump texture. Apricots, yellow apples, peach nectar, the fruit is backed up with white pepper and flowers. This shows a lot of depth for a California Pinot Gris at this price point. Lots of fun. (87 points)

2017 Mettler Family Vineyards Albariño Estate Grown - California, Central Valley, Lodi
SRP: $20
Medium yellow color. Punchy and tropical on the nose with guava, cantaloupe, pineapple, some yellow flowers and sea salt. Fleshy texture on the palate, but bright acidity, the fruit is rich and generous (creamy yellow apples and pears, guava, pineapple). I get a lot of floral tones, perfume, honey and sea salt. The bright/tropical contrast combination is really working in this Lodi Albarino. (88 points)

2017 Gratus White - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $29
Rich yellow color. Smells of lemon curd, pineapple, glazed pear, with a fascinating note of rainy forest, sea salt, along with some almond and honeycomb. Full-bodied with a plush, waxy texture, yet medium acidity keeps the wine quite lively. Lemon curd, blood orange, pineapple cake and apricot jam flavors, mixed in with spicy clove, white pepper, wet earth, sea salt, some richer almond cake and honey notes as well. Bold but very pretty. 50% Grenache Blanc, 15% Viognier, 15% Marsanne, 15% Roussanne, 5% Picpoul Blanc, aged seven months in old oak. (90 points)

2015 Gratus Malbec - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55

Deep purple color. Smells of plums, gushing blackberries, blueberries, mixed with violets, roses, espresso, eucalyptus, and rocky/earthy elements. I love the acidity on the palate, so fresh, and the velvety tannins make this wine accessible. Suave yet tangy fruit (black cherries, dark currants), topped in violets, mint, eucalyptus, and a blend of black tea, rocky soil and mineral. Oak elements blend in nicely. This is a fresh and vibrant Malbec that really hooked me. 100% Malbec, aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Gratus Petite Sirah - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Rich purple color. Dense aromas of boysenberry, blackberry, blueberry, deep and dark and topped in anise, menthol, ginger snap cookie and vanilla. Full and fleshy on the palate, some serious tannic grip here, while medium acidity moderates. This is a big, saucy, punchy wine with loads of juicy dark fruit, blended well with anise, pepper, vanilla, leather, clove. Dark, bold, this could use three to five years of age. All Petite Sirah aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (89 points)

2015 Gratus Red - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Nose boasts juicy black cherries, dark plums, and I get a complex blend of charcoal, graphite, black tea, grilled herbs, clove and cedar. Full but fresh with structured but velvety tannins and vibrant acidity. Juicy black fruit (cherries, currants, plums), whipped together with complex elements of earth, graphite, cocoa, clove, pepper, mint, sweet violets and tobacco. Complex, vibrant, this opens up nicely with time. Lovely now but I’m curious what two or three years will do to this wine. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec, 5% Petite Sirah, aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $90
Deep purple color. Deep and saucy on the nose, with roasted fig, blackberry, black currant, all tossed together with warm clove and cinnamon, black tea, vanilla, espresso, mint – a lot going on. Full-bodied with nice grip, but the tannins have rounded edges, and the acidity is really clean, balancing this big wine out really nicely. Flavors of pure blackberry, black currant and roasted fig, backed up with lots of clove, black pepper, spiced black tea, cinnamon sticks, charcoal, graphite scorched earth, vanilla and cedar. So complex, lots of fruit, but serious freshness and aging potential, too. 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 44% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Waves of black cherries and currants on the nose, along with violets, cedar, cocoa, smoky charcoal, and notes of sweet pipe tobacco. Velvety texture on the palate, structured but vibrant, acidity and tannins balance out nicely. Fresh yet rich fruit (black cherries, cassis, dark plums), laced with cedar, espresso, vanilla, sweet pipe tobacco, and a nice earthy-loamy element, too. Nice now but this would do well with 2-4 years in the cellar, and can definitely handle longer. Includes 7% Malbec, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 40% new French, Hungarian and American oak. (91 points)

2017 Dr. Konstantin Frank Rkatsiteli - New York, Finger Lakes
SRP: $17
Pale lemon color. Nose of orange peel, lemons, quince, with notes of lemon verbena, honeysuckle, nettle, bay leaf, sea salt. Plump texture on the palate with racy acidity, the balance is great. Lemons, yellow and green apples, so bright yet the depth of fruit is great. Lots of mineral depth, stones, sea salt, mountain streams. Brisk and sprightly, yet deep and complex. Fascinating stuff. (91 points)

2013 Dr. Konstantin Frank Blanc de Blancs - New York, Finger Lakes
SRP: $30

Light yellow color. Nose boasts yellow apples, apricot, with ginger, baguette, floral perfume, crushed chalk and sea spray. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy with depth that is impressive. Apricot, pear, green and yellow apples, the fruit is accented with these sea salt and crushed oyster shells, along with honeysuckle and ginger and light biscuity notes. Very impressive, a lean style but some impressive depth and that mineral streak is amazing. 100% Chardonnay, aged on the lees four years, 8 g/l dosage. Disgorged September 2018. (91 points)

2016 Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling Eugenia Dry Riesling - New York, Finger Lakes, Keuka Lake
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. The nose bursts with peach nectar, lime, guava, apricot, along with orange blossom, honey, dusty limestone and new tennis ball. Pristine acidity frames the palate from start to long finish, this is dry, bracing, so brisk and invigorating. Lime, lemon, guava, along with a complex burst of shells, saline, chalk and minerals. Notes of honey and mint add complexity. This is pretty but laser-like, too, offering enjoyment now or, preferably, with 5-10 years of age. Gorgeous Keuka Lake Riesling. 12% alcohol, 0.27% sugar. (92 points)

2013 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Emerald Release - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $100
Rich purple color. Gorgeous nose of tart currants, blackberries, spiced cranberry sauce, along with serious non-fruit complexity: violets, spearmint, smashed rocks, scorched earth, red pepper flakes, cocoa and vanilla. The palate is full, concentrated, yet lively, with a pure, velvety, effortless feel on the palate despite the density the wine brings. Generous with black cherries, red and black currants, tangy plums, the fruit is plush but shows a tart edge. Complex notes of cocoa, charcoal, rocky soil, flinty minerals, along with cocoa, mint, vanilla. This is gorgeous stuff that will age wonderfully. A blend of wines from all the different vineyard-designated reserve bottlings Tamarack makes, this includes 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, aged four years in 100% new French oak. This vintage is released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Tamarack Cellars. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Quality & Value in 2015 Côtes de Bordeaux

Vineyards in Blaye. Credit: Côtes de Bordeaux

Expressive Bordeaux in the sub-$30 range can be hard to find. I love Bordeaux, but can’t really afford what I love to drink, at least not very often. On the other hand, I’ve been turned off by inexpensive Bordeaux — too much acidic, bitter or just plain boring wine has made me hesitant to take a chance on a random $30 bottle.

But, over the past few years, I’ve found Côtes de Bordeaux wines can fill an interesting niche. They offer entry-level accessibility to consumers who want to explore Bordeaux without spending a lot of money, and they can offer something delicious and distinctive enough to make Bordeaux fans happy.

Côtes de Bordeaux is composed of five appellations: Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon, Francs and Sainte-Foy. Four of them joined together in 2009 to form the Union des Côtes de Bordeaux, while Sainte-Foy joined in 2016. These largely noncontiguous areas are spread out along the right banks of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. Blaye, the largest, stretches east from the banks of the Gironde river; Cadillac follows the east bank of the Garonne; Francs and Castillon produce wines from vineyards northeast of Saint-Emilion.

Most of these vineyards are planted on rolling hills with lots of clay and some limestone soils. The wines are almost all red, almost all Merlot-dominated, with some other Bordeaux varieties sprinkled in. Collectively, the five appellations produce about 5.3 million cases of wine, which is about 10% of Bordeaux’s total production.

I’ve written about these wines a few times before, and found a lot of good quality and value. So, knowing the hype about the 2015 vintage in Bordeaux, I figured a few Côtes de Bordeaux wines from this vintage would have a lot to offer. I was able to gather up 10 sample bottles, nine from 2015, with one 2014 ringer, and I blind-tasted them. 

Aross the board, these wines really deliver in the 2015, generally showing plenty of ripe fruit, with some velvety tannins and moderating acidity. A few wines really stood out.

And it sort of amazes me that these wines cost between $12 and $25. They can be fun to enjoy young, but some of these have the structure to improve with years in the cellar.

My notes on the wines I tasted are below.

2015 Château Suau - France, Bordeaux, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Nose boasts black cherries, blackberries, roasted figs, along with scorched earth, graphite, mint and dark chocolate. Plush texture on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity, this shows juicy red and black currants and cherries but stays vibrant throughout. Notes of violets, clove, leather and mushroom play well with the cedar and coffee notes. Very accessible now but could hold for a few years. 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Located on the highest part of Cadillac (which is only 330 feet), aged 12 months in French oak. (89 points)

2014 Château Lamothe de Haux Première Cuvée - France, Bordeaux, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Nose shows tart red and black currants and plums, along with tar, forest floor, coffee and clove. Vibrant acidity, strong tannic backbone, but the edges aren’t too harsh, this seems young but also lively. Tart red and black currants mix with lots of tobacco, clove, cedar, coffee. Concentrated and a bit tight, but impressive depth. This stood out from the 2015s as it doesn’t seem as velvety or silky, rather seems a bit tighter and more reserved, but still very nice. (88 points)

2015 Château Lamothe de Haux Première Cuvée- France, Bordeaux, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $15
Pretty aromas of juicy red and black cherries, saucy plums, lots of roses, violets, rhubarb, with some pepper, leather and coffee grounds. Velvety on the palate but nice grip, fresh acidity, lovely balance herein. Cherries, currants, suave but tangy fruit, and I get a complex mix of grilled herbs, roses, violets, tar, pepper, black tea. So vibrant yet structured and age-worthy, too. Exactly what I was hoping to find in this tasting: insane 2015 vintage value from the Côtes de Bordeaux. 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

2015 Château Puygueraud - France, Bordeaux, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $18

Gorgeous nose of chilled black cherries, red and black currants, lots of violets, black tea, dark chocolate, anise and clove. Lovely balance on the palate with dusty tannins, crisp acidity and plenty of red and black cherries and currants. Complex nots of violets, clove, black tea, along with leather, forest floor. Clove, anise, cedar and coffee notes woven in well. Packed with fruit but also fresh and vibrant, this will age nicely over the next four to five years or so. 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec from clay and limestone soils, aged 12-16 months in about 40% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Château de Pitray - France, Bordeaux, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $15
Nose shows tart black currants and dark plums, with coffee, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut and violets. Structured tannins, vibrant acidity, the balance is really nice with the tart black currants and black cherry fruit. Notes of clove, cedar, roasted chestnut, library dusty, with some mineral and graphite elements. Plush and ripe fruit, but it’s crisp and quite complex already. Should be more so in a few years. 75% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec. The Merlot sees 12 months in French oak, while the other wine is aged in stainless steel. (90 points)

2015 Château Hyot - France, Bordeaux, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $15
Nose shows fresh red cherries, currants and plums, along with rose petals, oregano, pine forest, mushroom. On the palate this shows strong tannins, tart acidity, and some concentrated, tangy red fruits (cherries, currants). Notes of pine, forest floor, mushroom add complexity. The tannins here need a few years to mellow out, and then this should turn into a smooth, tangy, super earthy and savory wine. 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from sandy clay soils, aged 20 months in oak. (87 points)

2015 Château Le Grand Moulin Grande Reserve - France, Bordeaux, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $13
Tart cherries and currants on the nose, lots of tobacco, mint, black tea and earthy, charcoal notes. Velvety on the palate, medium acidity helps balance out the medium-strength tannins. Tangy plums and black cherries, juicy and ripe fruit, a little less focus on the secondary notes here, but some subtle violets, loam and earth. Accessible stuff right now, but this could age for a few years at least. 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec from sandy gravel soils, aged 12 months in cement. (87 points)

2015 Château Gigault Cuvée Viva - France, Bordeaux, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $19
Nose of tart red currants, deep black cherries, a nice mix of cedar, loam, coffee, tobacco, mint and leather. Nicely balanced on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Juicy cherries and plums yet the fruit has a tangy edge, accented with violets, cedar, coffee grounds. A really cool earthy/mineral quality here, and the wine is lip-smacking and accessible, yet built to improve in the cellar for a while. Delicious, impressive blend of 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. (90 points)

2015 Château Cailleteau Bergeron - France, Bordeaux, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux
SRP: $20

Waves of dark plums, currants and cherries on the nose, backed up with mint, coffee, clove, cedar, a warm and inviting aromatic display. Vibrant acidity on the palate, solid tannic backbone, combines with suave fruit with a tart edge (black cherries, red currants). Notes of violets, earth, charcoal, graphite, blended nicely with some cedar and vanilla. Vibrant and expressive but should age nicely. 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. (90 points)

<85 points
2015 Château Couronneau Bordeaux Supérieur - France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur
SRP: $19
Nose shows juicy black cherries, sweet raspberries, with clove and vanilla. The palate is where things go off the rails a bit. High acid, astringent tannins with some green edges, some nice tart cranberry fruit and black cherries, but there’s a bitter, fruit pit element. Notes of pencil lead and graphite. Not faulty, and air helped smooth it out a bit, but it was still disjointed, even 24 hours later. Perhaps a few years might help but I’m skeptical. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Grenache & Syrah from Spain & France

I’m a big fan of Grenache, both as a varietal wine and it’s classic place in blends with Syrah and other red Rhone grapes. This week, I have a handful of diverse Grenache wines from Spain, and a Grenache Gris from the Roussillon region of France really wowed me.

I also tasted a few Syrah-focused wines from the Southern Rhone appellation of Costières-de-Nîmes, whose wines I’ve really enjoyed in the past. The value can be excellent, too.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2016 Bodegas Aragonesas Garnacha Coto de Hayas Centenaria - Spain, Aragón, Campo de Borja
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. Nose of dark cherries, black currants and raspberry jam, with cocoa, vanilla and mint. Full and saucy on the palate, a chewy, fleshy style with mild tannins and medium acidity. Juicy black cherries and blackberries, mixed with vanilla, cocoa and earth. Smooth, fun, pleasant, good stuff for near-term drinking. (87 points)

2016 Bodegas San Alejandro Garnacha Las Rocas - Spain, Aragón, Calatayud
SRP: $12
Bright purple color. On the nose, spicy red and black cherries, raspberry jam, with black licorice and raspberries in dark chocolate notes.Full and chewy on the palate, juicy and fun with some light tannins and medium-low acidity. Plums, raspberry and blackberry jam, the fruit is backed up with anise, cola and dark chocolate. Fun, fruity, but well-made and solid for the price. (86 points)

2013 Las Moradas de San Martín Senda - Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Rich and dark on the nose with roasted figs, black cherries, along with anise, magic markers and coffee. Full-bodied, medium tannins, medium-low acidity. Dark plums, currants, saucy fruit mixed with spiced black tea, anise, charcoal and cedar. Bold, forward but built well. Calls for a big cut of grilled meat. 10 months in French oak. (87 points)

2015 Bodegas Ignacio Marin Ballad - Spain, Aragón, Cariñena
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Classic, sweet, rich Garnacha aromas of raspberry jam, plum sauce, with some vanilla and dark chocolate. Fully, velvety, soft tannins, low acidity, this is all about the sweet plum cake and saucy raspberry fruit. Some coffee, chocolate and vanilla accents as well. Fun, chewy, rich, crowd-pleasing dessert wine. (86 points)

2016 Domaine de la Rectorie Banyuls Cuvée Thérèse Reig - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Banyuls
SRP: $33/500ml
Deep purple color. Saucy blueberries, roasted figs, along with clove, toasted coconut, vanilla and coffee grounds. Full and bold on the palate with quite strong tannins but medium acidity, plenty of sweetness, but the balance is aligned very nicely. A warm compote of blueberries, blackberries, roasted fig, laced with charcoal, clove, graham cracker, cinnamon. Complex and evocative already, this is an excellent Banyuls with many, many years ahead. I’d love to bury this for 20 years and hope I’m alive to taste it. (92 points)

2015 Domaine Jones Grenache Gris - France, Roussillon, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes
SRP: $28

Deep yellow color. Love the nose: deep yet bright, with apricot, lemon curd, lime, salted almond, sea breeze, crushed chalk. Plump texture, a fascinating depth and waxy element, but tangy too, and the balance is lovely. Lemon, orange pith, apricot, with lots of sea salt, chalk, mountain stream, minerals, as well as honey, white tea and olive oil-like elements. Complex, vibrant, gorgeous. (91 points)

2015 Ferraton Père & Fils St. Joseph La Source - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
SRP: $32
Light purple color. Aromas of plums, juicy black cherries, topped in roasted herbs, espresso, campfire smoke and black pepper. Medium-bodied with medium+ tannins and moderating acidity, nice grip but the wine is fleshy and lively, too. Tart black currants and roasted figs and plum cake topped in charcoal, espresso, some black olives. Nice depth but also quite vibrant and ready to drink, although this could easily be cellared for a few years. (88 points)

2017 Château de Campuget Costières-de-Nîmes Rosé 1753 - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $16
Medium copper color. On the nose, an explosion of peaches, apricot, topped in nettle, honeysuckle and tropical flower petals. Plump texture on the palate but fresh acidity. Loads of white peaches, cantaloupe, apricot and lemons. I get notes of chalk, sea salt, lots of spicy floral and tea elements, some pepper and herbs. Juicy and fruity but vibrant and quite complex. 80% Syrah and 20% Vermentino. (89 points)

2015 Domaine de Poulvarel Costières-de-Nîmes Les Perrottes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $32
Light purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose with black cherry compote, loaded with violets, black pepper, coffee and charcoal. Full-bodied, solid grip from the tannins, medium acidity. Darker, Syrah-dominated fruit (blackberries and black cherries) mixed nicely with elements of pepper, cocoa, dark chocolate and earth. Big and dark but showing some good complexity, but I think this will be more expressive in two-to-four years. 65% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 5% Carignan. (89 points)

2014 Michel Gassier Costières-de-Nîmes Nostre Païs - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
SRP: $20
Medium ruby color. Lots of aromas of pepper, sage, leather, grilled lamb, along with raspberries, cherries and plums. Full but fresh on the palate, the velvety tannins provide backbone while the acidity keeps the wine lively. Cool cherries, plums and raspberries laced with pepper, leather, chewing tobacco, grilled meats, and notes of earth and minerals as well. Showing very well now but this could hold for at least a few years. 35% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 5% Cinsault. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene: Step-Up Prosecco

Conegliano Valdobbiadene vineyards (Source: Prosecco.it)

For the past five to ten years, I’ve read countless articles on the rise of Prosecco. It’s a less expensive alternative to Champagne, it’s gaining in popularity with millenial drinkers, sales keep growing, etc. And, today, Prosecco is indeed the world’s best-selling sparkling wine by volume — while Champagne brings in a whole lot more revenue.

Here in the States, I’ve seen a lot of Proseccos geared toward a younger American market arrive in my samples pile, and at my local grocery and wine shops. Especially around the holidays in the DC market, Prosecco was everywhere.

I’ll admit my personal bias up front: if someone gave me $100 to spend on Champagne or $200 to spend on Prosecco, I would not hesitate to snag that single Benjamin. And while Champagne-method sparkling wines are far more intriguing to me, sparkling wine isn’t a zero-sum game. And there are some good Proseccos out there.

A good place to start would be wines from the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore appellation. This appellation earned its DOCG status in 2009. These grapes are sourced from the rolling hills of 15 different municipalities around the centers of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. The soils here are composed of clay, loam, sandstone and other elements, and the wines show more depth and complexity than your typical Prosecco. Some Conegliano Valdobbiadene wines carry the special designation “Rive,” which indicates wine grown from specific hilly municipalities, from a specific vintage, manual harvesting required, etc.

If you want to find the cream of the crop, check out wines from the DOCG Superiore di Cartizze. Within the Conegliano Valdobbiadene appellation, these wines are sourced exclusivley from about 100 hectares on the steep hill of Cartizze, and I’ve found these wines show interesting minerality and a lot of depth.

I recently tasted through six Proseccos from the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, and gained some more appreciation for these wines, many of which show serious value. I received these bottles as trade samples and tasted them single-blind.

N.V. Sanfeletto Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Extra Dry - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$12
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemons, green apples and melon, chalk dusty, lots of sugar cane and dandelions. Zippy, light, fine bubbles, medium acidity, some nice creaminess to the texture with sugar cane elements. Lemon meringue, green melons, lots and lots of flowers (orange blossom, baby’s breath, perfume and clean laundry). Fun, fresh, nice and crisp and pleasant. 100% Glera from the Feletto area, 13 g/l sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Le Rughe Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Extra Dry “Rivaj” - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$15
Light yellow color. Nose shows lemons, green apples, topped in honeysuckle, dandelions, sea salt, floral perfume. Light-bodied and brisk on the palate with yellow and green apples, lemons. Lots of floral perfume, baby’s breath, dandelions, some chalky notes. I get elements of apple cider and cinnamon as well. Lean but some fun elements here, and nicely balanced. 15 g/l sugar. (88 points)

2017 Bartolomiol Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore "Prior" Brut - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$13
Light yellow color. Nose boasts white peaches, green melon, apricot, with honey and orange blossoms. Fresh and bright and light on the palate with a salty, mineral appeal that is more evident than in most other wines in the tasting. White peaches, green melons, nectarine, along with baby’s breath, orange blossom. Very crisp and easy-drinking but significant complexity. 8 g/l sugar. (87 points)

N.V. Valdo Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore “Cuvée 1926” - Italy, Veneto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
$14
Bright lemon color. Bright aromatics with peaches, green melon, lemon curd, along with sea salt and white flowers. On the palate this is dry and bright with a salty, lemony approach, along with peaches and green melon. Perfumed, bright, with salted almond, chalky minerals, yet there’s a depth to this wine that is really attractive. (89 points)

2017 Mongarda Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$17

Bright yellow color. Aromas of peach nectar and limes, with crushed chalk, hay, baby’s breath and sea salt. Crisp and light on the palate, with a zesty, tart, mineral-driven appeal. Limes, peaches, guava, topped in saline, honeysuckle and sea salt. Light but complex, lean but lively, this has a lot of mineral and some oyster shell notes that really pop on the finish. Impressive complexity. 4 g/l of residual sugar. (90 points)

2016 BiancaVigna Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore Extra Brut Rive Di Soligo - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore
$13
Light yellow color. Lots of depth, with yellow apples, apricot, lemon curd, with chalky, bread dough and seashell notes. Brisk acidity, a bracing appeal on a light-bodied frame, with candied lemon peel, orange peel, green apples, with lots of crushed chalk, meringue, sea salt. Lots of mineral depth here, a nice salty, briny element, too on a dry, bright frame. I really like this stuff. Only 2 g/l residual sugar. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.