Exciting, Value-Driven Wines from Portugal and Spain

Long-time readers may have heard me sing praises of wines from Portugal’s Alentejo region, and, well, I’m here to do it again. There’s a nice mix of the region’s signature saucy, spicy reds that will keep you warm and cozy during winter.

Alentejo’s Esporão produces a dizzying array of wines. In this report, I have their entry-level, widely-available Monte Velho wines, which I think are some of the best values around. I also tasted three Vinho Verdes. I love those wines when I’m sitting at a café eating shellfish in Portugal, but they’re usually (by design), simple wines. Thee three in this report are something else entirely.

I enjoy vibrant, white wines year-round, and I have a few in this report that bring a crisp, summery feel to the colder, darker months. Two vibrant white Riojas, offer a lot of complexity, value and personality.

These wines were all received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Esporão Quinta do Ameal Vinho Verde “Bico Amarelo” - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $12
Light yellow color. Aromas pop with peaches, lemons, limes, with daisies, dandelion and honey, shows depth along with the freshness. Racy, fresh and vibrant on the palate, this shows a textural depth and complexity that I don’t get often from Vinho Verde a lot. Complex peaches, lemon and quince, combined with pristine chalk, minerals and sea salt, topped in white flowers. The depth and focus are impressive, and one of the more memorable Vinho Verdes I’ve tried. Loureiro, Alvarinho and Avesso. I was shocked when I saw this price point – excellent and inexpensive. Aww, yeah. (91 points)

2019 Esporão Quinta do Ameal Vinho Verde “Loureiro” - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $18
Medium yellow color. The nose shows chalk dust, saline, floral perfume, along with limes, pineapple and yellow plums. Precise acid on a racy frame, with pineapple and lime fruit, and some creamy depth that adds to the mouthfeel. Notes of chalk, potpourri and mint add complexity. All Loureiro from the Lima subregion, this has precision and complexity worth seeking out. (90 points)

2019 Esporão Quinta do Ameal Vinho Verde “Solo Unico” - Portugal, Minho, Vinho Verde
SRP: $28
Deep straw color. Aromas of lemons, limes, green melon rind, new tennis ball, with honeysuckle and sea spray. Brisk and focused on the palate, a prickly and lively feel, with lemon, quince and green apple fruit. Notes of lemon verbena, daisies and honey mix with sea salt and crushed chalk. Lovely freshness and solid depth as well. All Loureiro aged on the lees for seven months, fermented in a mix of stainless steel and concrete eggs. (90 points)

2019 Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $10
Rich yellow color. Fresh aromas of chalk, ocean spray in river stones, over top of richer honeyed tones, yellow pears and apricots. Precise acidity frames the well this richly-textured wine, showing balance, freshness and delicious fruit (lemon, peach, apricot). The fruit is tossed with honey, raw almond, chalk and crushed shells, notes of ginger and saltine cracker. Beautiful stuff, a perennial screaming value, case buy kind of wine. A blend of 40% Antao Vaz, 40% Roupeiro, 20% Perrum. (90 points)

2019 Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $10
Light purple color. Aromas of juicy cherries, raspberries and plums, along with mocha, sweet roses and mesquite. Medium-bodied, light, dusty tannins, and juicy, accessible raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit. Laced with smoky earth, sweet clove, cocoa and violets. Vibrant, yummy, accessible, this is inexpensive but has a lot of personality. A blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional and Syrah. (87 points)

2015 Adega Cooperativa de Borba Adega de Borba Reserva - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $18
Vibrant purple. Jammy, ripe nose of black cherries and plum cake topped in milk chocolate, this is hedonistic but also spicy and smoky. Medium-bodied, has surprising acidity to help balance the plums, saucy cherries and blackberries. Notes of tar, smoky earth, anise, charcoal and dark chocolate add complexity. Tobacco and mint on the finish. A ripe, juicy, fan-friendly blend of Trincadeira, Alicante, Aragonez and Castelao. (87 points)

2014 Carmim Reguengos Garrafeira dos Sócios -­ Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Reguengos
SRP: $48
Light purple color. Aromas of mulled cherries and plums mix with these notes of grilled beef, cracked black pepper, olives, roasted red peppers and tobacco – lovely! Full-bodied, structured but refined tannins, moderate acidity, this is framed well and sports delicious, tangy plums and black cherries. The non-fruit flavors pop: tilled soil, graphite, roasted chestnut, anise. Still plenty of aging time ahead of it, and it opens up really well with air, and goes to show how Alentejo Alicante can age. Includes 20% Touriga Nacional and 15% Tinta Caiada. (91 points)

2017 Herdade de São Miguel Colheita Seleccionada - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $15
Deep purple color. Nose shows deep tones of baked figs, blueberry jam, with cocoa, mint and tobacco. Medium/full-bodied with nice grip, velvety edges to the tannins, medium acidity. Tart black cherries and blackberry compote, topped in roasted coffee, grilled herbs, violets and clove. Has nice structure, depth, even ageability, which is really impressive given the price point. Alicante Bouschet with Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. (88 points)

2015 Adega da Cartuxa Évora Cartuxa - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Évora
SRP: $25
Medium purple color. The nose sports plums, blackberries and black cherries with an inviting mix of violets, tar, clove, warm clay and black tea. Medium-bodied with refined tannins that offer structure, while medium acidity gives freshness. Tart blueberry and blackberry fruit blends well with coffee, violets, anise, tar, and these deep mineral, pencil shavings and iron tones. Deep yet lively, this will continue to get better over at least the next five years. Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira. This wine is consistently an awesome value. (91 points)

2016 Herdade do Esporão Alentejo Reserva - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $24
Deep purple color. Smoky, earthy aromas with charcoal, graphite and anise over top of dark plums and black cherry jam. Medium/full-bodied with nice, dusty tannins, chewy but lively with plums and black cherries. Notes of tar, charcoal, smoky, leather, with mineral undertones. Fresh, lively, with a vibrant finish. Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. Expressive, exciting, especially for the price. (89 points)

2019 Viña Bujanda Rioja Blanco -­ Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
SRP: $15
Rich yellow color. Interesting tones of apricot, orange peel, with hay, white tea, some sea salt, dried honey. Inviting texture on the palate but also vibrant and fresh throughout, and the white peach, orange peel and yellow apple fruit mixes well with sea salt, brine, dried nuts, wildflowers. There’s a lot of pure, mineral undertones and a lot of depth in here. (88 points)

2016 Bodegas Palacio Rioja Blanco Cosme Palacio Crianza -­ Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $26
Deep yellow color. A complex, inviting blend of apricot and orange, drizzled in honey, topped in sea salt, candle wax, almond skin and white flowers. Deep texture but precise on the palate, waxy yet zesty, with lemon peel, grapefruit and nectarine, mixed in with spiced white tea, sea spray, saltine crackers, mixed nuts and honey. Complex, evolving well but this has a solid stretch of years ahead of it, too. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Valentine's Day Selections

This Valentine’s Day is much different than others, given the global pandemic. But, in the spirit of looking on the bright side, I’ve gathered together some wines that may help bring some joy to your Valentine’s Day. Whether you’re cooking at home or grabbing some takeout, here’s wishing you a happy and loving time with you and yours. (And, don’t worry, I don’t have any wine and chocolate pairings.)

There are plenty of bubbles in this report, including Moscato, Cava and Champagne. There are some solid inexpensive options in this report (because who couldn’t use some savings these days).

Southern Rhone blends, and specifically Cotes du Rhone wines, are largely responsible for getting me to take wine seriously. When I was first getting into wine, I loved the accessible price points and the vibrant, spicy, food-friendly appeal. I still love these wines, and I have a few delightful examples that offer value and quality.

California wines always have a place in my heart, so I’ve chosen a few that recently stuck out and seem like good choices for a wide range of palates.

Lastly, I included two wines from Oregon’s Troon Vineyard because, well, I love them.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Domaine Bousquet Brut Rosé - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $13
Vibrant pink color. A steely, chalky nose with white flowers and tart strawberries, mint. Bright and tangy on the palate with light strawberry and white cherry fruits. Steely, bright appeal with wildflowers, dandelion, lemon verbena and some chalky notes. Simple, inexpensive, fun, salad and seafood-friendly stuff. A 75/25 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (86 points)

N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne La Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $50
Medium yellow color. Lovely nose of biscuits, chalk, sea salt, with lemon-lime, kiwi, ginger, fresh laundry and white floral tones. The palate is framed with precise acidity, and has solid depth of texture. Tangy lemons and limes with yellow apples, and the fruit is backed up by elements of graham cracker, honey, bread dough and shaved ginger. Fresh, versatile, complex, this is juicy but focused, a solid big house Champagne. (90 points)

2018 Clos Bellane Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas
SRP: $23
Plummy aromas with deep blackberries, smoky earth with these peppery, grilled lamb and warm clay tones. On the palate, this is full but fresh with moderating acidity and moderate tannins, deep but inviting compote of plums, blueberries and blackberries. Notes of violets, peppered steak, glazed mushroom and balsamic glaze, and these mineral and graphite tones on the finish. Fresh and approachable but also complex and even age-worthy. Great value here. A wine for newbs and nerds alike. (91 points)

2018 Delas Frères Côtes du Rhône Saint-Esprit - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $12
Medium purple color. Aromas of plums, suave black cherries and blueberries, with tar, roses, anise, campfire tones. Full-bodiee with chewy texture and medium acidity, a voluptuous style with blueberries and black cherry compote. Notes of cocoa, scorched earth, tar and cigar shop add complexity, some violets and clay thrown in. This is a nice CdR for a cold, wintry night, and a solid value. 60% Syrah, 40% Grenache. (87 points)

2017 Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Villages - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages
SRP: $15
Light purple color. Aromas of roasted figs and cherry preserves, with smoky earth, violets, paprika, tilled soil. Medium-bodied with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Accessible and fun with roasted figs, black cherries, summery fruit laced with pepper, earth, campfire smoke. Accessible, fun, but sporting some complexity for the price as well. (87 points)

2017 Stéphane Ogier Côtes du Rhône Le temps est venu - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
SRP: $20
A nice, inviting mix of black currants and tart cherries on the nose, with roses, violets, and spicy, complex tones of pepper, paprika and scorched earth. Medium/full-bodied with a chewy texture, velvety tannins, bright acidity keeps if fresh. Plums, black cherries and blackberry fruit shows a tangy but bold feel, and the fruit is backed up by pepper, clove, grilled steak and anise tones. Surprisingly refreshing and complex, it’s accessible but “serious” and a serious food-friendly, crowd-pleasing value 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre. (90 points)

2019 Vietti Moscato d'Asti Cascinetta Vietti - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti
SRP: $16
Light straw color. The aromas pop with white peaches, guava and kiwi, along with a tropical burst of orange blossoms and honeysuckle. On the palate, this is sweet and juicy but the acidity is lovely, and keeps it fresh and steers away from being cloying. Guava, canned peaches, farm fresh apple cider tones, with these floral perfume and honeysuckle tones. Crushable but focused and shows surprising balance. For those (like me) who aren’t big fans of Moscato, this is just undeniably good and a lot of fun. (88 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $15
Medium gold color. Aromas of yellow apples, white flowers, new tennis ball, honey. Light and fresh with plump yellow apple and zesty lemon fruit. Chalky, stony tones, with some graham cracker and honey. Juicy, bright, sugar woven in nicely. Easy-drinking, sporting complexity and deliciousness for a low price point. Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo, aged 15 months in bottle. (86 points)

N.V. Vilarnau Cava Rosé Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $16
Deep copper color. Nose shows tart strawberries, white cherries, with straw, chalk and talc tones, white flowers. Zippy and crunchy on the palate with a brisk , drier, focused feel. Raspberry, strawberry and white cherry fruit mix with some baguette, lemon verbena/mint tones, sliced cucumber and chalk elements. Crisp, focused, and shows a lot for the price. I’d rather sip this with some seafood or charcuterie over a lot of widely-available bubbles at twice the price. (88 points)

2019 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Gamble Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Yountville
SRP: $28
Light yellow color. The nose pops with lemons, grapefruit, kiwi, mixed with lemongrass, ramp leaves, chalk and white tea. Plush texture meets refreshing, mouth-watering acidity for a delightful balance. Grapefruit, lemon and kiwi fruit mix well with lemongrass, mint and sliced cucumber tones. Rushing minerals and stony notes follow, and there’s a clear, racy finish. Value and class abound in this Napa Sauv Blanc. (90 points)

2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay Benchmark - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $75
Deep yellow color. Rich, inviting nose of yellow pears, bruised apples, with nutmeg, cinnamon, hay, honey and yellow flowers. The palate shows plush texture, creamy and buttery, but moderate acidity, too. Yellow apples, apricots and pears, the fruit is generous but lively, not overdone. The honey butter, nutmeg and nougat are matched with minerality, stony and chalky tones. Deep but harmonious, delicious but crisp, too. This should open up nicely with a few years, too. Aged 15 months in all new French oak. (91 points)

2020 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir Rosé Winemaker's Release - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $25
Pale salmon color. A forward, inviting but bright nose showing lemon, raspberry and kiwi fruit, along with hay, daisies, mint and clover. Dry, zippy, fresh and focused on the palate with fruit more like white cherries and McIntosh apples. Honeysuckle, clover and hint of celery seed. Lots of character and complexity in this direct press rose from estate Pinot grown in Vine Hill Ranch and Owsley Estate. (90 points)

2018 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $38
Vibrant purple color. The nose shows smoky, beefy, peppery tones that accentuate the tart black currant and blackberry fruit, with notes of violets and graphite. Vibrant acidity frames this wine nice, full-bodied, velvety tannins, it’s wrapped together nicely. Tangy black currant and blueberry fruit blends with these elements of black tea, pepper, violets, anise, scorched earth. The complexity and balance are really something. This is delightful now, but I’d love to see it age five years. Aged 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2017 Mi Sueño Syrah - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Dark purple color. A deep, saucy but welcoming nose of blueberries and black currants, wrapped in mesquite, smoky earth, black pepper, leather and clove. Full-bodied, refined tannins, the acidity is quite fresh and keeps this wine moving forward. Deep plums and black currant fruit, mixing well with menthol, mesquite, black pepper, and some balsamic and mushroom glaze. Savory, peppery kick on the finish is welcomed, and the oaky tones are woven in well. Could use air for sure or a few years, but this is a whole lot of Napa Syrah goodness. All Syrah, spends 20 months in 55% new French oak. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Tannat Estate - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. The nose exudes juicy, dark plums, blackberries, but there’s liveliness to the fruit, too, along with roses, violets, tilled soil and black pepper. Medium/full-bodied, crisp acidity, strong tannic grip but the edges aren’t harsh, nicely balanced. Tangy black cherries and tart blueberry fruit blends with cocoa, coffee, graphite, violets, tobacco. This needs air and/or time to open up but it’s already expressive, and the earthiness and freshness are really attractive. All Tannat aged two years in old French oak. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Cuvée Pyrénées - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $65
Boisterous purple color. The nose is great, starting off with smoky, beefy, peppery, anise tones, along with graphite and violets, over top of tart black currants and black cherries. Vibrant acidity is really great in here, balancing out the sturdy grip, while the tart blackberry and tangy black currant fruit carries the wine forward. Pepper, black tea, violets, clove, anise, tar, the complexities are great. This is delightful and I’d love to see what this does with six to eight years of age. 70% Tannat and 30% Malbec, co-fermented with native yeasts, aged two years in old French oak. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Italian wines from Piedmont and Tuscany

I’m back this week to highlight three Italian producers, two from Piedmont and one from Tuscany.

Tenuta di Arceno, based in southern Chianti Classico, brings a tasty little Super Tuscan to the table. The Gran Selezione is definitely something to check out.

Piedmont stalwart Vietti has a few regional classics. Vietti, whose wines I found available in my early 20s, was one of the producers that introduced me to Piedmont, and they’re still putting out wines that offer a great introduction to these wines at very reasonable prices.

Marchesi di Grésy has been in the di Grésy family since the late 1700s, but it wasn’t until 1973 that they starting making their own wines, instead of selling them to cooperatives. These wines are serious, structured, and, in my opinion, offer serious value.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Tenuta di Arceno Il Fauno Di Arcanum - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
SRP: $30
Medium purple color. On the nose, I get tangy red and black currants, roasted figs, juicy and deep, laced with violets, tobacco, inviting earth and clove. Full and suave on the palate, moderate acidity, with bold plum and currant fruit that is juicy but maintains a tangy edge. Laced with cocoa, charcoal, tobacco, mint and menthol. Complex earth and floral tones will continue to come out with time. Really solid value here. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. (90 points)

2016 Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Strada al Sasso - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
SRP: $55
Deep purple color. Enticing and complex aromatic display of tobacco, eucalyptus, mint, rosemary and smoky pencil lead over top of tangy black and red currants. Full-bodied, fresh acid with structured tannins with rounded edges. Black currants and roasted fig fruit blend well with complex violets, tilled soil, leather and cigar shop, with coffee and cedar woven in well. Solid concentration but stays lively as well. This needs air or time or both, but it’s a beauty and brings a ton to the table for the price point. 100% Sangiovese. (92 points)

2019 Vietti Roero Arneis - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Roero
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Aromas of peaches, green apples and kiwi, with brisk mountain stream and rocky, slate tones and saline. Pleasantly plump texture on the palate with vibrant acidity and a pure, fruit cocktail of grapefruit, lime and cantaloupe. Notes of honeysuckle, floral perfume and oregano add complexity, and there’s a minty, chalky finish. Focused yet generous, and a lot of complexity, especially given the price. (90 points)

2018 Vietti Barbera d’Asti “Tre Vigne” - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti
SRP: $18
Medium purple color. Jammy red and black cherries, with juicy plums, notes of tobacco, roses, violets and sage. Fresh acidity frames the wine nicely, dusty-light tannins, and flavors of ripe but fresh cherries, plums and figs. Lovely balance with ripe fruit and notes of violets, cola, clay, loamy earth and warm tea. Ripe, fresh and crushable but complex and balanced – solid value. (89 points)

2018 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo “Perbacco” - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe
SRP: $28
Vibrant aromas of raspberries and tart cherries, covered in smoky earth, rose petals, graphite, slight tones of soy, white pepper and mushroom broth. Fresh and bright on the palate, focused, accessible but has some structure to the tannins as well. Raspberries, cherries and red currants, mixed with savory, floral, spicy tones (clove, anise, spiced tea), with mineral, earthy undertones. Drinking great now. Sourced from 15 different Grand Crus, vinified separately and blended later. Really solid, value-driven baby Barolo here. (91 points)

2018 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbera d’Asti - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti
SRP: $19
Deep ruby color. Aromas pop with juicy, fresh cherries, topped in violets, clay, tobacco, rose petals. Medium/full-bodied with a chewy tannic texture and medium+ acidity. It has a crunchy red and black cherry profile, with summer plums and pomegranate. Zippy and fun but also needs time to open up and show pepper, dark earth, rose hips and white pepper. A food-friendly but complex wine that really delivers a lot for this price-point. (88 points)

2019 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Langhe Nebbiolo Martinenga - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
SRP: $26
Light ruby color. Vibrant tones on the nose of roses, violets, clay earth, over chilled strawberries and wild raspberry. Accessible feeling on the palate with moderate tannins, has a plump but refreshing and inviting feel, but shows complexity, too. Bright cherry and sweet raspberry fruit mixes with violets, earth and clay. Delightful, food-friendly, brings a lot to the table for this price point, and is ready to drink but could hold for a few as well. (90 points)

2017 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
SRP: $65
Beautiful light ruby color. The aromas need time, but this is full of floral, spicy, leathery and earth tones, over top of red currants and tart plums. Bright acidity on the palate, nice grip, and lots of high-toned red fruits (tart cherries, red currants and pomegranate). Notes of menthol, pepper, potting soil add complexity. With air this shows more and more savory tones, black tea, black olive, leather. Pretty young Barbaresco that should show great in five years, but still has personality, elegance and accessibility while young. (92 points)

This post first appeared in the daily wine blog Terroirist.

New Releases from California and Oregon

Happy belated new year. I’m back this week with a round-up of new releases from California and Oregon for my first reviews of 2021. And I’m starting off with some good stuff.

Merry Edwards, whose wines I fell in love with on one of my first California wine trips, comes out swinging with four rocking single-vineyard Pinots from the 2018 vintage.

Paso Robles’ Rabble Wine Company puts out several brands. Aesthetic and marketing matters, and they seem to do a great job of it, while maintaining quality in the bottle that could make you a return customer.

Long-time readers will have seen Troon’s wines on here before, and I have a lot of respect for this producer and their wines. Always experimenting with different styles, grapes, this biodynamic winery puts out nerdy but pristine and highly delicious wines in so many styles it seems there’s something for everyone in their portfolio.

Some other new releases round out this report. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Talbott Chardonnay Block 50 South Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ­- USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey
SRP: $60
Rich yellow color. The aromas are deep and suave, with bruised pears, yellow apples, with complex floral tones, cinnamon crumb cake, honeycomb. Plump texture on the palate but moderate acidity keeps it vibrant throughout. Juicy flavors of yellow pears and apples, with apricot jam, mix with complex floral tones (honeysuckle, orange blossom). Notes of honey, graham cracker and brown sugar contrast against a chalky element. Rich but vibrant and fresh, too, this should age nicely. (90 points)

2018 Rabble Wine Company “Stasis” Grüner Veltliner - USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $41
Medium yellow color. Inviting aromas of yellow apples, limes, along with this pretty combination of floral and spicy elements (honeysuckle fresh ramps) with honey and chalky elements as well. Precise acidity frames the wine nicely on a zesty, focused frame with delicious yellow apple, kiwi and lemon fruit. A crunchy, salty, floral appeal, with honeysuckle, ginger, cucumber slices and celery seed tones. A lot going on, bright and complex, but it’s also so fun and crushable, too. (90 points)

2018 Grieve Family Winery Double Eagle White Wine - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $48
Medium yellow color. Rich aromas of honeydew, pineapple and yellow apple with honeyed, floral tones but also these vibrant tones of hay, chalk and mint. Plush texture on the palate, vibrant acid, with flavors of white peach, pineapple and lemon tart fruit. Notes of chalk, minerals, tomato leaf and sea salt add complexity. Nuanced, plump but fresh, this Sauvignon Blanc has lovely clarity and focus to it. (90 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep yellow color. Aromas of lemon, orange, yellow plum, a rushing display with notes of sea salt, white tea, honey, all sorts of flowers. A juicy, creamy mouthfeel but, considering the blend, the acidity is really surprising, offer pleasant moderation for the yellow plum, orange marmalade fruit, lime notes, too. Honey, marzipan and floral tones add complexity. Lovely stuff to serve with savory dishes on a cold night. Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne fermented with native yeasts in Old French oak. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
An orange, light gold color. The nose is bright, with orange peel, lemon, has a natural but focused appeal with wildflowers, crushed sweet tarts, quinine and talc. On the palate, this shows chunks of pineapple, orange peel and preserved lemon, plump but shows some medium-low acidity as well. Complex notes of crushed shells, floral perfume and subtle notes of mint, tobacco and earth. Really enjoyable and unique. Fermented in amphorae, two with whole grapes, one with whole cluster. (90 points)

Red wines

2017 Rabble Wine Company Tooth & Nail Wines “The Stand” - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $25
Deep purple color. Deep, roasted figs, blackberries and black currant compote, with cedar, coffee, tar and sweet cocoa. Juicy and full on the palate with velvety tannins, surprisingly fresh acidity. Jammy blackberries, blueberries, roasted figs, laced with cocoa, coffee, graphite, scorched earth, pepper and tar, yet this forward, winter-hearty wine shows vibrancy throughout. 85% Petite Sirah, 14% Syrah, 1% Viognier, aged 15 months in 34% new French oak. (89 points)

2018 Rabble Wine Company Rabble Red - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $13
Medium purple color. Jammy aromas of cherries and plums, smoky figs, with vanilla and chocolate covered raisins. Ripe and juicy on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Flavors of blackberry and smoky figs mix with vanilla, chocolate and coffee tones. Chewy and forward but shows some vibrancy, and has a fan-friendly, disappear at a party vibe to it. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Petite Sirah. (86 points)

2016 Rabble Wine Company “Amor Fati” Syrah Murmur Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Ooh! The nose oozes olives (green, black, some pimentos and garlic cloves thrown in, and I love it) backed up by these tones of beef jerk over top of tangy, juicy cherries and red plums. Full-bodied but fresh with this zippy acidity and some solid but slightly dusty tannins. Vibrant but chewy fruit, cherries and blackberries, along with lots of tobacco, black pepper, leather, lots green olives. Undertones of rocky earth and mineral round out this lovely, complex Syrah that will reward age. Spends 18 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $16
Medium ruby color. Aromas of raspberries, juicy cherries, with roses, cola, suave but shows some spicy, herbal tones as well. Juicy, smooth but fresh on the palate with soft tannins and medium acidity. Raspberry and cherry fruit mix with light roast coffee, nice tones of rose petals and save, nuanced toffee and cola. Fun, fresh, style, ripe but shows a lot of nuance and balance for the price. (87 points)

2016 Grieve Family Vineyard Double Eagle - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $88
Deep purple color. Aromas of juicy blackberries, blueberries, with tar, anise, roasted coffee and cedar, classic, deep, inviting Napa goodness. Full and suave on the palate with velvety tannins and fresh acidity, finely balanced. Ripe blackberry and smoky blueberry with plummy, sauce tones, backed up by complex graphite, mineral, charcoal and tobacco. Boastful but nuanced and fresh, too. Delicious, exciting stuff. Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Petit Verdot. (92 points)

2017 Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
SRP: $40
Light purple color. Aromas of smoky earth and mint chocolate chip over top spicy black currants, sweet plums, with pepper and black tea. Full-bodied on the palate with smooth tannins, medium acidity. Juicy and ripe with plush black cherry and plum fruit. Notes of cocoa, toasted coconut and coffee grounds are woven in well. A forward, yummy style, but it has some solid complexity and depth as well. (89 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard ­- USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas pop with raspberry and blueberry jams with spicy mint, menthol and clove, backed up by milk chocolate and rhubarb. Full but fresh with a slightly chewy texture and waves of plums, raspberry and blueberry fruit. Cola, rose petals, nuanced notes of toffee and roasted chestnut, complex floral and earth tones as well. Bold but beautiful, smooth and vibrant, and should be stellar in three to six years. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Warrens' Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
SRP: $66
Cherries galore on the nose, vibrant and floral as well, with roses, violets, tobacco and sarsaparilla. Full-bodied, lively acidity, full of juicy cherries and red plums on a frame of dusty tannins. Complex notes of oregano, roses, coffee, clay and earth, with herbal and minty tones. Vibrant finish, harmonious and complex, the freshest, spiciest iteration in this mix, and it’s lovely. (93 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Aromas of juicy cherries and plums meet notes of violets, cola and sweet oregano. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, a chewy texture with a concentrated feel, but stays vibrant with acidity as well. Deep cherry and roasted figs, wild blueberries, suave fruit mixes well with cola, sage and tobacco. Pretty underlying mineral and earth tones This could use some time, but it’s vibrant and exciting. (92 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Meredith Estate Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $72
The nose boasts sweet plums and deep black cherries, with rich tones of cola, cocoa and coffee. Full and chewy with moderate acidity and a deep core of black cherry and tart plum fruit. Saucy with notes of coffee, toffee, sarsaparilla, roasted chestnut and potting soil. Needs air and time to coax out the nuances, but it’s lovely and good for fans of the deeper style. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Medium purple color. Aromas of suave black cherries, blackberries, with pepper, cocoa, mesquite, graphite and tilled soil. Full and fresh, nice tannic structure but velvety feel and vibrant acidity. Black cherries and blueberry compote mixes with all sorts of spicy tones (olives, pickling spices, mesquite, charcoal) with violet and cocoa tones. Integrated, lively, spicy, serious stuff for the price. (91 points)

2018 Troon Vineyard Syrah Whole Cluster Fermented ­- USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Medium purple color. So enticing on the nose, deep but vibrant with red and black cherries and currants, figs, and notes of pine, pepper, menthol and charcoal grill. Full-bodied and suave on the palate with bright acidity and a grippy but gorgeous, deep texture. Pretty blueberries and blackberry fruit mix well with complex notes of bacon fat, beef jerky, black olive, scorched earth. A silky, mineral-laden finish. This should age wonderfully over the next decade. (92 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Holiday Treats

It’s been a long year, and this is a very different holiday season. But I hope you and yours are safe, healthy, and have an enjoyable holiday season, whatever you are celebrating.

In the spirit of the holidays, I’ve gathered up a collection of wines from all over the world that could add some cheer in the coming winter.

From one of the brightest, most complex Soaves I’ve tried in a long time, to Quilceda Creek’s second wine and the new vintage of Napa’s Cardinale, I’ve found some beauties. Merry Edwards’ first vintage of a Sauvignon Blanc dessert wine is absolutely delicious, and worth checking out, especially if you (like me) are a fan of their classic Sauv Blanc.

There’s some Champagne and other bubbles, of course. And if you’re not up for opening a full bottle, this report also includes several 375ml examples that are widely available in the U.S.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2018 Pieropan Soave Classico Calvarino - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
SRP: $40
Medium yellow color. Plush but inviting nose of peach, guava, lime, topped in hay, white flowers, mint and chalk dust. Creamy texture on the palate is beautiful, while crisp acidity keeps it focused and bright, backed up with these plump peach and yellow apple fruit, drizzled with lie. The complexity here is great, with mineral, chalk, sandstone, hay and lemon verbena. Zest, focused, complex, stony, with a long, harmonious finish. This is killer single-vineyard Soave. (91 points)

2019 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
SRP: $13/375ml
Light yellow color. Lively aromas of lemon, guava and ruby red grapefruit, with subtle herbal, peppery tones, white flowers in the mix as well. Ripe and plush on the palate with flavors of grapefruit, white peach and guava, accented with daisies and honeysuckle. A ripe and spicy feel but balanced and nuanced as well. (88 points)

2018 William Hill Winery Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $13/375ml
Rich yellow color. Aromas of honeyed pears and apples, cinnamon crumb cake, but also some lively lemon and chalky tones. Creamy, juicy texture on the palate, moderating acidity, with flavors of yellow apples and lemon curd. Notes of honey, cinnamon and almond are woven in well, and notes of yellow flowers and chalk add vibrancy. Forward but harmonious, and a solid value Napa Chardonnay. (89 points)

2019 Girasole Vineyards Pinot Blanc - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $14
Light yellow color. Nose of white peaches and yellow plums, along with spicy oregano and mint, honey and clover. Juicy, peachy and tropical on the palate, but fresh and crisp throughout. Yellow apples, white peaches, lemon and papaya, this is a juicy but zippy wine tossed with cucumber slices, floral perfume and honeysuckle. There’s a lot going on here for the price. (88 points)

Sparkling, rosé & dessert wines

N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Extra-Brut Rosé Première Cuvée - France, Champagne
SRP: $70
Light salmon color. So bright and brisk with the nosewith wild raspberry and strawberry, along with watermelon rind, topped in crushed shells, chalk dust, hints of white pepper and tomato leaf. Precise and focused on the palate with racy acidity and bright appeal, along with solid textural depth. Grapefruit, strawberry, raspberry and red apple peel fruit mix well with chalk, talc and crushed shell tones. Notes of white pepper and ginger add complexity to this brisk, delightful rosé. Mostly Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Bouzy, Mailly or Les Riceys, along with Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, with a 6 g/l dosage. (91 points)

2019 Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu'ile de Saint-Tropez Côtes de Provence Fleur de Mer Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $13/375ml
Deep copper color. Bright and chalky on the nose with sea salt and dandelion over top strawberry, watermelon and white cherry fruit. Fresh and plump texture on the palate, but bright acidity, with flavors of white peach and guava. Notes of yellow flowers, green tea and honey mix in well. Fruity but vibrant, a fun, versatile rosé. (87 points)

N.V. La Marca Prosecco - Italy, Veneto / Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $11/375ml
Light yellow color. Nose pops with peaches, limes, honeysuckle, and crushed sweet tarts. Light and fresh with moderate acidity and flavors of peaches in honey, candied orange peel, shaved lemon. Nots of floral perfume and crushed sweet tarts mix with a hint of mint. Fun, straightforward, crowd-friendly stuff. (85 points)

N.V. J Vineyards & Winery Brut Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Light salmon color. Aromas of strawberries and watermelon, McIntosh apple, with chalky, seashell tones, spicy oregano and wildflowers. Fine bubbles on the palate, a round and tropical feel but fresh, too. Red apples, apricot, strawberry, mixed in with green and white teas, talc, mint. Juicy and fun but shows a good amount of complexity as well. 57% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay, 6% Pinot Meunier, 12 g/l dosage. (88 points)

2018 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $48/375ml
Rich yellow color. An explosion of peachy goodness on the nose with guava, orange marmalade, candied ginger, white tea and honey. Plush texture on the palate, with moderating acidity, a rich and honeyed texture, with guava and orange marmalade, yellow plums. Delicious tones of candied ginger, almond cake, unctuous yet shows vibrancy underneath. This is a delicious and complex wine, and the first harvest of this noble rot Sauv Blanc from the Maefield Vineyard Merry planted in 2015. An exceptional holiday choice or bury it in the cellar. (93 points)

Red wines

2016 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
SRP: $65
Medium ruby color. The nose shows suave cherries, red currants, topped in a complex host of leather, pepper, grilled steak, clove, with underlying mushroom and rose petal tones. Medium/full-bodied with solid, grippy tannins and racy acidity. A deep but tart core of black cherries and red currants, chewy, ripe but fresh, and topped in elements of menthol, tar, smoky earth, pepper, mushroom and rose petals. This needs at least a few years or a good decant, but is balanced well and has a lot to offer. (90 points)

2017 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Multi-Appellation - USA, California
SRP: $13/375
Medium ruby color. Aromas of jammy strawberries and cherry pie, cola and rhubarb on top. On the palate, this has velvety tannins, medium-low acidity, and plenty of juicy fruit (raspberries, red plums, cherry cheesecake). Notes of cola, caramel, rose petals, even some earth and herbal tones keep this interesting. Fun accessible, value-driven stuff. Fruit sourced from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Sonoma Counties. (86 points)

2017 Cardinale - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $325
Deep purple color. The nose shows waves of fresh, deep, tangy black currants and cherries, tossed with warm clay, tobacco, potting soil, roasted chestnut, oregano and hot chocolate – it’s a fascinating, diverse, shifting display of aromas. On the palate, this is full but fresh, structured but smooth tannins, and the acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. Plums, cherries, currants, deep but vibrant fruit laced with tobacco, mint, anise, cigar box, tobacco and coffee. Underlying graphite and mineral tones add this integrated, profound feel. This will do excellent things over the next five to 10 years. (96 points)

2017 Barra of Mendocino Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $22
Medium purple color. Boisterous aromas of blackberry and blueberry jam, with smoky earth, dark chocolate, clove and violet petals. Juicy and fun on the palate, warm and inviting with smooth tannins, medium acidity keeps it active. Plummy, blackberry puree and roasted fig tones, mixed with coffee, rocky earth, tilled soil and dark chocolate shavings. Deep but not heavy, stays fresh. Solid value here for near-term wintertime drinking. All Petite Sirah, 14.5% alcohol. (88 points)

2017 J Vineyards & Winery Pinot Noir Annapolis Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $110
Light purple color. Deep and saucy aromas of black cherries, dark plums, with lots of interesting mesquite, black pepper, rose petals and leather tones. Full, polished on the palate with velvety tannins and medium acidity that balances the deep, ripeness of the black cherries and plum cake fruit. Violets, gravelly earth, lots of concentration here with tones of black pepper glaze, dark chocolate and mesquite. A Pinot for Syrah-lovers for sure, and this needs serious time or a decant, but it has a lot going on. (91 points)

2017 Quilceda Creek CVR Columbia Valley - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $70
Medium purple color. Deep and saucy aromatic display of red and black currants and cherries, laced with mesquite, tobacco, rocky earth, tar and coffee tones. Full-bodied, suave but structured, juicy but shows vibrant acidity. A smooth, deep yet tangy display of currant and black cherries, with a complex mix of graphite, loamy earth and rocky tones, iron, tobacco, with these nuances of cocoa powder and vanilla. This could use a few years or give it a really good decant if drinking soon. Cabernet Sauvignon with 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. A delicious, less expensive way to experience the Quilceda Creek goodness. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

Alentejo's Exciting Wines and Sustainability Efforts

I’m thankful and privileged to be healthy and safe during these pandemic times. But, like many millions of people, my travel plans for this year have evaporated.

For my five-year-old daughter’s birthday this spring, I was thrilled to bring my family to Portugal. It is a country whose culture, wine, waves, food and natural bounty fascinate me to no end. When I’m there, I often think, more than any other place I’ve visited: I should have been born here. While that trip is dashed, I can’t wait to get back when it’s safe to do so.

When I visited the region of Alentejo three years ago, I found an overwhelming amount of diverse and high-quality wines and producers. It was such a treat to dig deep into the region’s tradition of wines fermented in amphora, explore the history and diversity of the region’s adopted red grape Alicante Bouschet, and I was impressed to learn about the exciting white wines produced there as well.

As an outdoors, nature and wildlife enthusiast, it was sometimes hard to think about wine while I was traveling through Alentejo — there was just so many rolling hills, forests, fields, and natural beauty going by outside my window. With relatively low population density, large amounts of uncultivated land, and ever presence of the famous cork forests, the region offers a lot of unspoiled natural beauty and thriving wildlife. Among the group I traveled with was Wines of Alentejo’s U.S. director Tiago Caravana, who, in addition to his wine career, is an incredible wildlife photographer, and was always on point with my random questions about the region’s diverse mammals and birds of prey.

So, I hopped at the chance to attend a webinar with Tiago and others in the region’s trade group this summer. We tasted what I consider to be some really solid examples of what the region can produce, and we spent a lot of time discussing the sustainability efforts of the regional winegrowing commission. Lots of Alentejo producers have been taking sustainable vineyard and winery practices serious for many years, but in 2014, the regional winegrowing commission created a voluntary program called Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program.

This program is designed to improve environmental, social and economic welfare in the region, specifically focusing on issues like water control, pest management, energy conservation, and packaging. Several of the wineries represented in the tasting focused on their attempts at improving sustainability by using sheep to reduce cover crops, utilizing bat boxes to fight pesky insects, increasing use of solar power, reducing bottle weight, etc.

But the proof is in the bottle, and these wines offer a good window into Alentejo’s ancient and thriving wine culture. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted. 

2018 Herdade do Esporão “Colheita” Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $16
Medium yellow color. Generous aromas of nectarine, peaches, cantaloupe, with honeycomb, hay, nougat and floral perfume. Creamy texture on the palate with crisp acidity, deep but balanced with lovely yellow plums, apricot and orange peel. Juicy, deep but bright with notes of sea salt, chalk, toasted almond, honey, hay and candle wax. Expressive, complex, everything is lined up wonderfully in this crazy value of a white wine. Antao Vas, Viosinho, Alvarinho and other white grapes, fermented partially in concrete, aged on the lees for four months. (90 points)

2018 Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas “Sao Miguel do Sul” - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $12
Medium purple color. Aromas of jammy raspberry, blackberries, with vanilla, grilled herbs, pepper and cola. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, medium/low acidity. A soft, accessible, chewy feel with sweet plum and raspberry jams, along with some cocoa, cola and tobacco. Fun, easy-drinking stuff but some freshness and complexity as well. Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Cabernet Sauvignon. (86 points)

2018 Herdade dos Grous Tinto - Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
SRP: $19
Light purple color. On the nose, with jammy raspberries, strawberry, with smoky earth, mint, charcoal, rose petals. Bold but surprisingly fresh on the palate with velvety tannins and plenty of raspberry, black cherry and plum jam fruit. Notes of spicy tobacco, earth, mint, cocoa powder make this a dynamic wine for the price. Fresh but complex, delightfully grill-out friendly. 35% Alicante Bouschet, 35% Aragonez with Touriga Nacional and Syrah, aged nine months in French oak. (88 points)

2017 Herdade dos Coelheiros “Coelheiros” - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Rich, suave aromas of black currants, black cherries, roasted plums, with smoky earth, cocoa, ginger snaps and pepper. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, medium acidity keeps it lively. Suave blackberry and roasted fig fruit mixes with notes of pencil lead, cocoa, coffee, vanilla. Fresh despite the generosity of fruit. Could age but great now for grilling. Real good stuff for Zinfandel fans looking to branch out. Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet, aged 12 months in French oak. (88 points)

2014 Carmim Reguengos “Garrafeira dos Sócios” - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Reguengos
SRP: $48
Medium purple color. Complex aromas of tart cherries and blackberries, with deep green and black olive tones, tilled earth, anise and coffee grounds. Full-bodied, with dusty tannins, medium acidity, a structured but lively feel. Cherries and blackberries mix well with complex notes of anise, leather, charcoal, dusty earth, mineral and rocky elements. This is in a great place right now, and just goes to show how well Alentejo wines can age. Alicante Bouschet with 20% Touriga Nacional and 15% Tinta Caiada, aged in French and American oak for 14 months. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.