Digging Into Oregon's Applegate Valley

The Applegate Valley in Southern Oregon seems like a wonderful place. A traditional orchard fruit growing zone with a long winemaking history, this area received its American Viticultural Area designation (AVA) in 2000, and it is a sub-appellation within the Rogue Valley. Today there are some 700 acres under vine, and the area’s climate provides warn sunny days and cold nights. The Kubli Bench zone offers diverse, well-drained soils. And the winemakers that call this place home seem set on creating unique, pure wines.

I’ve been tasting (and really enjoying) wines from Troon Vineyard since 2017, and their wines continue to impress. This producer is always trying new things, new blends, new styles, and evolving with the times while staying true to their biodynamic farming and winemaking style. The amphorae-aged offerings in this report show how they continue to seek out exciting wines for a new generation of consumers.

Schmidt Family Vineyards is a neighbor of Troon’s, and this is my first foray into their wines. Owned by Cal and Judy Schmidt, this Kubli Bench winery planted its first estate vines in 2001, and their first vintage was 2004. They’ve since grown to about 5,500 cases per year, and boast a nice mix of varietals. I was excited to review a diverse lineup of their wines, and found a lot of personality and value from this producer.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Rolle - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Light yellow color. The nose is salty and chalky and bright with tones of lemon and quince, green apples, with some wild, spicy elements and celery seed. The palate sports creamy texture, lovely depth, but prickly acidity, and the balance is focused and on-point. Perfumed and spicy tones mix well with the peach, lemon and green apple fruit. There’s almost an austerity here, a bit of Mezcal-esque feel, but it’s also so deeply textured and bold, everything is working really well. Exciting, fun stuff, it offers deliciousness but a ton to ponder as well. Foot-trodden, natural yeasts, aged in amphorae – this is a special wine, an homage to Corsica, and another example of Troon’s endless spirit of adventure. (92 points)

2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino Amphora Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $60
Pale copper color. Beautiful nose of zesty lemons, green apples and papaya, along with chalk dust, white flowers, green olives, some talc. The palate is precise and deeply textured, with bright lemons and green apple flavors. The notes of quinine, talc and crushed limestone add all sorts of complexity. Notes of wildflowers, wild green herbs and green olives add a lot to contemplate. For the fans of zippy and adventurous wines, but this is also highly delicious and crushable. Well done, Troon. Skin-fermented Vermentino aged in amphorae for 11 months. (92 points)

2020 Schmidt Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. The nose is vibrant and zesty, with lemons and white peaches, along with honeysuckle, celery seed and saline tones. The palate is crisp and nervy with bright acidity and juicy white peach fruit, laced with lemons and limes. Notes of perfume, sea salt, celery seed, along with mint and sliced green bell pepper. Lovely style, fun and bright but shows solid complexity. Wow, lots of value. Six months in stainless steel. (88 points)

2018 Schmidt Family Vineyards Albariño - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $16
Pale lemon color. Peachy keen on the nose with lemons and yellow apples, along with honey and white flowers. Creamy yet zippy on the palate with peaches, yellow apples and lime zest, along with white flowers, sea salt and some fresh oregano tones. Lovely balance and brightness, surprisingly focused and clear. A lot to enjoy in here. Six months in stainless steel. (89 points)

2018 Schmidt Family Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Deep ruby color. Juicy raspberries and strawberries on the nose, with rose petals, white pepper and rhubarb, with some tobacco tones. Fresh acidity and chewy tannins along with smooth, vibrant black cherries and spiced cranberry relish flavors. I enjoy the clay, roasted red pepper and savory, brothy tones herein, and it’s woven in well to this spicy, fun, vibrant appeal. A $20 Pinot that has this kind of “real” feel? Good luck finding one from California. 23 months in barrel, 10% new. (89 points)

2017 Schmidt Family Vineyards Merlot - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Deep ruby color. The nose shows an interesting mix of smoky, meaty, beefy, peppery tones, over top of stewed cherries and cranberry sauce. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, lively acidity, with cherries and plums, nicely balanced. Fun but complex with peppery, earthy, clay tones – a lot of right bank vibes here, and solid value. Aged 23 months in barrel, 20% new. (90 points)

2016 Schmidt Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ­- USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. I get saucy plums and sweet blueberries on the nose, along with barbecue sauce, pepper, tobacco, violet petals and mint – a lot to unpack. Fresh acidity keeps it all together, softened tannins but still structured well. Nicely-aged fruit, a compote of blueberries and black cherries, still lively, with a complex mix of mesquite, pine, tobacco and savory, spicy elements. Decant this one, lots of sediment, but this is really interesting and has a lot of personality. 13.7% alcohol, 23 months in 30% new French oak. (88 points)

2016 Schmidt Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Vibrant purple color. Smells of tangy blueberries and tart black cherries, a deep core of tangy fruit, aced with violet petals, tobacco, anise and black pepper. Such vibrant acidity, deep, structured tannins, lovely balance. Tart blueberries and black cherries, the fruit is so lively, and mixed well with tones of warm clay, tar, tilled soil, black pepper and clove. This is really unique and seems like it will age wonderfully for quite a while. Such a pretty, spicy Tempranillo, aged 23 months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

Enjoying the Wilderness and White Wines of Virginia

Remote Shenandoah beauty.

Virginia is on my mind this week. I had a great solo winter hike and scramble in Shenandoah National Park, and I recently tasted through some beautiful Virginia wines.

Long-time readers have heard me rave about Virginia wines for many years, and it’s been interesting to see how the perception of Virginia wine has improved, in other wine media and the public at large. The landscape has shifted so much, and there’s way more out there than some zippy Cab Francs and rich Viogniers.

The Virginia Governor’s Cup Awards each year have been an exciting way to promote the state’s wines, and next month we’ll know the 12 winners of 2022. I think we could likely see some of the producers featured in this report on that list. I love some Bordeaux blends, Cab Francs, and have a soft spot for VA Petit Verdot, but this report is all white wines (and a sparkler). The diversity of styles and flavors in just this small gathering of wines really speaks to Virginia’s strengths.

And, hey, if you’re looking to explore wines from the commonwealth, Valentine’s Day coming up. Virginia is for (wine)lovers. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Williamsburg Winery Chardonnay Stainless Steel Fermented – USA, Virginia
$20
Light yellow color. The nose shows lemons and white peach along with white flowers, celery seed and lemon verbena. The palate is light and zesty, bright and crisp, with lemons and kiwi fruit. I like the affirming tones of mint, white pepper and sage that add complexity to this brisk style. A tough year, but this wine offers a lot of fun and a nice take on this style. (87 points)

2019 Williamsburg Winery Chardonnay Limited Release Monticello – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$32
Medium yellow color. The nose is lovely, with honey, white tea and cinnamon crumb cake, over top of yellow pears and lemon curds, yellow flowers. The palate shows crisp acidity and a creamy texture, with yellow apples and lemons. Nuances of gingerbread, honey, graham cracker, balanced out by notes of sea salt, white tea and minerals. Nice depth of texture, but solid balance. (88 points)

2017 Linden Chardonnay Village – USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia
$32
Rich yellow color. Aromas of lemon crème, yellow apples, with chalk dust, sea salt, with some floral perfume. The palate shows nice depth but vibrant acidity, and the balance is really nice. Lemons, kiwi and yellow apples mix with honey, almond shell and white flowers. Bright, juicy, salty, pure and vibrant. Classic Virginia Chardonnay. Mostly declassified Hardscrabble grapes, no maloactic fermentation, aged 10 months on the lees in old French oak barrels. (90 points)

2018 Michael Shaps Petit Manseng – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$35
Rich orange color. The nose is just gorgeous, with apricots and orange marmalade, topped in honey, graham cracker crumbs and zesty, salty vibes. The palate is beautifully textured and creamy, backed up with racy acidity, and that nervy, live-wire balance is something that this wine excels at. Lemon drops and orange marmalade fruit blend well with minerals, chalk dust, tones of honey comb and candles. Unique, beautiful stuff that will age wonderfully. (91 points)

2018 King Family Vineyards Viognier Small Batch Series – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$35
Medium orange color. The nose has a lot on offer, with lemons and yellow apples mixing in with green olives, brine, clover and honey. Creamy texture on the palate, this also sports briny acidity, it’s rich and tropical but focused throughout. Lemons and orange peel, juicy yellow apples, the fruit is laced with flowers and green olives. Beautiful, fresh, has a natty but pristine vibe and a creamy yet lip-smacking finish. This skin-fermented Viognier is equally interesting and delicious. (91 points)

2019 Stinson Vineyards Rkatsiteli Wildkat – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$29
Deep orange color. The aromas boast elements of lemon, papaya, along with ginger anf precise notes of flowers and talc. Medium-bodied with a salty, racy, briny appeal. Clean and precise with lemon and quince, racy yet deep with complexities of sea salt, white pepper and oregano. White tea, waxy, creamy elements as well. Super fun and nerdy but also straightforward in its deliciousness. Georgian style skin-fermented Rkatsiteli from Virginia – I’m stoked this wine exists. (90 points)

Sparkling and dessert wines

2018 Linden Petit Manseng Demi-Sec – USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia
$26
Medium gold color. Aromas of apricots and golden apples, topped in candle wax, honey, candied pecans and daisies. Gorgeous acidity on the palate, keeps it pristine and fresh against the creamy texture and rich, sweet fruit (orange, pineapple, apricots, glazed apples). Zesty, chalky tones are framed well against notes of honey and pineapple cake. Gorgeous depth but stays focused. Petit Manseng really is one of the best grapes for this style of wine, and Linden is a great producer, which adds up to one heck of an exceptional demi-sec wine. 20 g/l residual sugar. (92 points)

2015 Barboursville Vineyards Paxxito – USA, Virginia
$60
Deep orange color. The nose is so pretty, with orange marmalade, pineapple upside cake, with white and yellow flowers, almond, cinnamon, notes of dried nuts – just goes on and on. Gorgeous creaminess with honeyed, unctuous mouthfeel and the lively acidity is just perfect. The pineapple and mango fruit is laced with notes of nougat, gingerbread, honeyed white tea, some flinty/mineral elements underneath as well. This won the Governor’s Cup in 2021, and for good reason. Muscat Ottonel and Vidal Blanc grapes dried via the Passito method. Just an exquisite dessert wine that could fool a lot of people in a blind tasting, and likely win over new fans. Will age wonderfully for who knows how long. (92 points)

N.V. Valley Road Vineyards Joie – USA, Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
$40
Bright watermelon color. Smells like red apple peels, sweet tarts, crunchy white cherries, rose petals and chalk dust. Crisp on the palate with light bubbles and flavors of sweet red apples, raspberries, light and crunchy vibes. Notes of nettle, chalk, sweet tarts and talc. Fun, bright carbonized pink. (87 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Italian Value Wines Under $25

These days, it seems everything costs more. In the wine world, so many producers I once bought and loved have gotten too expensive for me.

Finding good wine for little money is a passion of mine, and I love scoping all sorts of wine from Spain, Portugal, South Africa, Southwest France and more. Italy is a fount of wines that show a sense of their place without a huge price tag. From Abruzzi to Veneto, this week I have a range of interesting and delicious Italian wines, all for less than $25.

These wines were received as trade samples and all the reds were tasted single-blind.

2018 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
SRP: $15
Deep ruby color. Plummy and fresh on the nose with raspberries, cola, warm clay and some tobacco and basil elements. Crisp and fun on the palate, light tannins, this has a zesty, smooth appeal with cherries and red plum fruit. Complexities of light roast coffee, dusty earth, sage and tobacco add a nice touch. Has a fun, fresh vibe but complex and savory, too. (87 points)

2019 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Dolcetto d’Alba “Monte Aribaldo” – Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba
SRP $19
Light purple color. Ripe and fun on the nose with classic juicy, dark Dolcetto fruit (blueberries, plums and raspberry jam) along with violets, potting soil and sweet basil tones. Juicy and ripe on the palate with light and dusty tannins and fresh acid. Dark cherries and plums along with cocoa, violets, cola and earthy tones. So pleasant and fun – who can’t not like this? Floral and fun, but solid depth, too. All Dolcetto, all stainless steel. (90 points)

2019 Vietti Barbera d’Alba “Tre Vigne” – Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba
SRP: $18
Deep ruby color. The nose pops with raspberries and cherries with opulent floral tones, too. Vibrant acidity, smooth tannins and tangy fruits (raspberry, black cherries, strawberries), really lively. Floral and perfumed, this has a lot of spice rack elements (from paprika to oregano and lots of other stuff in between). Focused and food-friendly, a reliable wine from a classic producer at a bargain price. Aged 14 months in French and Slavonian oak. (90 points)

2019 Masseria Li Veli “Orion” Salento IGT – Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $15
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of roasted plums and mulled cherries, along with tobacco, scorched earth and violets. Rich and chewy but shows some good acid to keep it fresh. Plums and sweet raspberries, boisterous fruit but stays lively, and shows elements of cocoa, violets, clove and red licorice. This is a fun, party-friendly accompaniment to grilled sausages and veggies, but shows some complexity as well. All Primitivo aged six months in stainless steel. (88 points)

2015 Cambria Syrah “Furnari” – Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $20
Vibrant purple color. Smoky and beefy on the nose, which is great, along with black olive, along with tobacco over top sweet blueberries, plum sauce. Medium-bodied, smooth tannins, a pleasantly chewy feel along with vibrant acidity. Plummy, black cherries, mixed with some distinct clay, earth, tobacco. Fun but complex, a lot going on here. (90 points)

2020 Di Giovanna Grillo “Vurria” – Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $19
Rich yellow color. The nose shows a nice mix of tropical and vibrant aromas, with lemon and pineapple alongside tones of honey, yellow flowers, sliced cucumber and sea salt. Creamy and plush on the palate but this sports moderate acidity. Yellow apples, lemons, kiwi and pineapple fruit play well together, backed up by pretty elements of white flowers, lemon verbena, and these chalky, flinty elements. A ton of personality and vibrancy here, especially considering the price. All Grillo from 30-year-old vines, all stainless steel. Tasted sighted. (89 points)

2019 Stemmari Nero d’Avola – Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $8
Deep purple color. The nose pops with juicy black cherries and sweet plums, along with an interesting mix of clay, loamy earth, violets. Ripe and sweet on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity. The plummy, cherry, blueberry fruit is deep but pretty. Some tobacco, black tea, oregano and pepper add complexity, which balances nicely off elements of roasted chestnut and red and black licorice. Crowd-pleasing but delightful and shows a lot of value for the price. (87 points)

2019 Tenuta Sant’Antonio Valpolicella “Nanfré” – Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Aromas are really spicy and fresh, like cherries and red plums topped in black pepper, paprika and sliced bell pepper. Medium acidity and dusty tannins, full but fresh with mulled raspberries and cherries. Notes of black pepper, anise and black tea add some complexity. Interesting, tasty, accessible stuff, if you like spicy freshness, this is worth checking out. Really solid value. All stainless steel with no dried fruit and lower alcohol, Corvina and 30% Rondinella. (89 points)

2018 Inama Carménère “Più” – Italy, Veneto, Veneto Rosso IGT
SRP: $21
Medium ruby color. Lovely, spicy nose of roasted red pepper, rose hips and coffee grounds over top of tangy cherries and raspberries. Medium-bodied and fresh acidity with smooth but structured tannins. Strawberry and cherry fruit, juicy and tangy, mixing well with tobacco, mint, tar and roasted red peppers. Warm, inviting, delicious stuff, this has a spicy appeal that makes me crave a campfire and grilled meats and veg. I love this producer, and this is such a unique wine with a ton of personality. Includes 30% Merlot, aged 12 months in French oak and six months in stainless steel. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Merry Edwards' 2019s are singing

Merry Edwards’ wines likely need no introduction. The reputation of this winery is hard-earned and well-deserved. And I’m always excited to taste new releases from this Sonoma producer.

Year-in, year-out, the wines deliver, and the style and quality have remained remarkably consistent. On cold nights like the ones we’ve been having in the Mid-Atlantic, a Merry Edwards Pinot Noir is always a great call. From years of introducing friends and family to these wines, I can confirm they are universally loved.

I recently tasted through the 2019s, and — wow. A very solid growing season led to beautiful wines in the glass, deep but fresh, and the balance and staying power is there. I can’t wait to taste more 2019 Sonoma Pinots and see how they improve in the cellar.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $54
Bright ruby color. So fresh and bright with strawberries and cherries, along with rose petals, white pepper and rhubarb. Crisp and fresh, lovely texture, slightly chewy but really fresh. Juicy strawberries and red cherries mix with tones of rhubarb, pepper, along with rose petals, nutmeg and bay leaf. Fun and fresh but complex, too. A great intro to the producer’s style. (92 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Bucher ­– USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $63
Deep ruby color. So fresh and bright on the nose, with strawberries and cranberry relish, backed up by enticing pepper, violets, bay leaf, tobacco – a lot to unpack. Pure and racy on the palate, a full but fresh appeal with bright raspberries and cherries. Notes of mint, rose petal, cola and anise add complexity, while stony, clay, earthy elements offer a lot to ponder. Is it enjoyable now? Massively, but give it five or eight years and I’d love to see what this turns into. The fourth vintage of this wine, which has been overseen my winemaker Heidi von der Mehden since she took over. (94 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Warrens’ Hill – USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
SRP: $70
Deep ruby color. Juicy plums and raspberries and cherries on the nose, airy but deep, laced with cola, rhubarb, rose petals, and lot of earthy, herbal and spice rub tones – exquisite to sniff. Vibrant acidity and suave tannins, wonderfully balanced, this is full but fresh with tangy strawberry and juicy black cherry fruit. There’s an underlying stony, mineral essence and an airy, floral quality throughout. Complex notes of earth, spice, pepper, red flowers, mint. Give this air and time, but it’s beautiful. (94 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Meredith Estate – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80
Bright purple color. The nose shows juicy black cherries and tangy strawberries, along with a complex mix of rose petals, tilled soil, black pepper, along with meaty, spicy tones that offer a lot to contemplate. Full but suave on the palate with fresh acidity and smooth, dusty tannins that show accessibility but age-worthiness as well. The red plum and strawberry fruit is fresh and delightful. The savory, earthy, floral tones are great (pepper, oregano, rose petals). A pretty, balanced, mineral-laden wine that will age wonderfully. The flagship bottling, made from the first vines Merry every owned, this is gorgeous. (95 points)

2019 Merry Edwards Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $68
Light yellow color. Beautiful, vibrant nose of lemon, orange peels, papaya, along with honey, shaved ginger, nougat – a wonderful balance. On the palate, there’s this waxy but salty combination of deliciousness. Lemon curd, papaya, pineapple, laced with salted almond, honey, bread crumbs, lemon verbena and pecans. The complexity of floral, honeyed and brisk tones is really something. A lovely interpretation of this famous Chardonnay. (93 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

New Wines from California & Arizona

I hope your new year is off to a good start. I’m starting off the year with some wines from two places I love, California and Arizona.

Mendocino County is a place I’ve spent enough time visiting to realize, again and again: I need to spend more time here. The gnarly coast is one of my favorite places, and the wines from all the different AVAs have a lot to offer. I’ve been paying close attention to Mendocino wines over the past 15 years, and there’s a lot to offer. Meyer Family is a good one to check out – based in the Yorkville Highlands, and they also have a tasting room in Mendocino. I first tasted a 2003 Syrah from them that rocked me, and it was a pleasure to revisit their recent offerings.  

I also have some delicious wines from Sonoma, including an interesting white blend Sosie and a banger of a Cab-based red from Hamel Family. I also have a bright, zesty Monterey Pinot Noir that wowed me.

For the first time in two years, I traveled out of my region, and visited family in Arizona over the holidays. I’m a big fan of Arizona wines, and bought some Page Springs Cellars and Dos Cabezas ahead of time for the family dinners. (The wines were great.) The landscape in Arizona fascinates me so, and I’ve spent countless hours hiking and climbing in the desert mountains. And I love that, turns out, a lot of cool people make really good wine out there, too. Most of the winelands are in higher elevation sites, there are always mountains nearby, and winemakers working with diverse grapes and styles. Two wines from Aridus are represented here. Based in Willcox, their wines are more widely available than some others. If you ever find yourself in Old Town Scottsdale, their tasting room is a nice place and a fun visit.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

DC, the Wood Thrush and Democracy

On 1/6/2021, I was in Rock Creek Park, DC, birdwatching. There was nobody around and I was trying to clear my head, listening for birds. And then the phone began buzzing. The silence of the woods was broken by way-more-than-usual levels of helicopter activity, and incessant, far-off sirens. My wife texted me to head home now, but I was already on the way.

On 1/6/2022, I was in Rock Creek Park, DC, birdwatching. There was nobody around, and the snow was slushy. DC's official bird, this wood thrush, was singing and strutting. All was quiet except for its song and my crunchy footsteps. I took my time and enjoyed its song and watching it flutter through the winter woods, far longer than usual.

May all future Januarys in this town be as peaceful as today. On 1/6/2025, I hope to be in Rock Creek Park, DC, birdwatching. I hope dearly it is a calm, uneventful day.

Endless respect for those many officers who fought to defended the Capitol, Americans' elected officials, and democracy itself -- as corny as that may sound.