Monday, June 13, 2022

Bidding Farewell To Dirty & Rowdy Mourvèdre

I had mixed feelings when I recently opened two Dirty and Rowdy wines. I’ve long loved this producer’s wines, and have found their different Mourvedres to be some of the most fascinating reds from anywhere in California.

Usually, it’s with pure stoke and joy that I crack open a D&R bottle, preferably to blind some friends on one during a gathering. But, now that this winery has dissolved, there was some longing as I sniffed the bright red fruits. Their wines made quite a splash when they first started, and they have grown a loyal fanbase over the years with their bright, low-intervention wines and whimsical, fun outlook.

In September, Hardy Wallace announced that he and winery co-founder Matt Richardson had come to an “amicable” agreement to dissolve the Napa-based brand. I was saddened to hear this, as I was looking forward to stocking my cellar with more of their delicious vino. Luckily, the news wasn’t all bad, as Hardy and his wife Kate Graham announced they were starting a new venture: Extradimensional Wine Co. I have yet to taste these wines, but they seem like a worthy successor project (like Tryptikon is to Celtic Frost, if that makes sense to a random metalhead, wine-loving reader).

Below are my notes on two exceptional Dirty and Rowdy wines, my last from their mailing list. I hope to open some more D&R wines before the stock diminishes all over, and look forward to Hardy and Kate’s new project as well. 

2018 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvèdre 'ESPECIAL' Rodnick Farm - USA, California, Central Coast, Chalone
$35
I don’t usually think of “elegance” as a term applicable to Mourvedre, but it sure is to this one. So floral, airy, delightful on the nose with juicy red cherries and bright pomegranate. Notes of pepper, lavender, mesquite and rose hips add complexity. Medium-bodied, the mouthfeel is gorgeous, a combination of brisk acidity and dusty tannins supporting bright cherry and tangy strawberry fruit. A racy feel, so floral and perfumed, with complexities of tar, black tea, beef drippings, mushrooms. Refined and pretty, but this should continue to deal out goodness for a while, although it’s drinking really great now. (92 points)

2019 Dirty and Rowdy Mourvèdre Shake Ridge Ranch - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
$60
The nose here is something else: the freshest raspberries and strawberries, mixed with tones of spicy red pepper, black pepper, white pepper, rose petals, cherry blossoms, even some orange peel, along with anise and sage – wow. Structured well with dusty, mid-strength tannins and crisp acidity, with tart currant and raspberry – so tangy and alive. Roses, paprika, clay, black pepper, minerals and graphite, this has so much going on for it. The mouthfeel is perfectly balanced. I’d love to see this in three or four years, as this got so much better on day two. (94 points)

Friday, May 27, 2022

Delicious finds from California and Arizona

This week, I have a selection of American wines I find exciting.

For many years, I’ve been touting Arizona wines, and I’m here to do it again. I love a lot of Arizona producers, their DIY winemaking culture, the interesting mix of varieties and styles. One of my favorite activities in life is to go climbing and hiking in some Arizona mountains and come home to a delicious local red blend with a grilled steak. Aridus is a great entry into Arizona wines, as this Willcox-based producer has a lot of different bottles available in a bunch of markets.

I’m also a huge fan of amphora wines (grapes fermented on their skins in clay vessels). It’s been done all around the world in ancient winemaking cultures, from Georgia, Italy and Portugal. I spent a lot of time digging into the amphora winemaking culture in Alentejo a few years ago, and I’ve been keenly watching for New World producers who step up and make wines in this method and style. Behold! Beckmen Vineyards delivers with their “1Ingredient” wines. From Ballard Canyon, these wines are pure expressions of their grapes and place, but also of their fermentation method – as the wines offer this beautiful mouthfeel and elegant complexity. Check this out if any of this sounds interesting.

Booker is a Paso Robles producer I’ve known and respected for a while. Their wines are so exciting and delicious, and offer a ton of value, too. Paso is such a dynamic scene, and I always enjoy keeping up with what they’re doing out there – and Booker is a staple and legend for a reason.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Beckmen


2020 Beckmen Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 1ngredient – USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon
SRP: $50
Light orange color. Gorgeous nose of pineapple and lemons mixed with honeyed white tea. There are this complex notes of raw almond, breezy spring air and flowers, some candle wax and hints of sage and dusty earth. The palate shows crisp acidity, it’s refreshing but shows such a rich, dynamic mouthfeel, layered, chalky, briny – I love it. Lemon and quince fruit mix so well with these raw almond, green olive and salt brine tones. Honeyed, bright, spicy, there is a lot going on here. If you’re looking for an out-there but delicious Sauvignon Blanc, give this a look! Fermented and aged on the skins in amphora for 10 months. (92 points)

2019 Beckmen Vineyards Viognier 1ngredient – USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon
SRP: $65
Deep orange color. An inviting but also head-scratching aromatic display, with orange peel, honey, shaved ginger, lemon drops, pineapple, white tea – fascinating stuff. On the palate, this acidity is laser-focused, which becomes key in balancing these complex textural dynamics. Yellow apples, lemons, pineapple, laced with salted almonds, ginger, honeysuckle, with some mineral undertones. Delicious, intriguing, adventurous but clean, like a gateway band into a unique genre, this wine has a ton to offer. Fermented and aged on the skins in amphora for 10 months. (92 points)

2019 Beckmen Vineyards Syrah 1ngredient -­ USA, California, Central Coast, Ballard Canyon
SRP: $85
Light purple color. Wow, the nose is so floral and breezy, like red cherries, pomegranate and rose petals on a spring meadow. The earthy, savory, peppery vibes are delightful. On the palate, this sports dusty tannins and a crisp, nervy appeal. Tangy raspberries and currants, so pure and racy, light and crisp, yet there’s a lot of depth as well. Rose petals, violets, earth, pepper, sage, creosote, a lot going on here. There’s a stony, mineral essence and a post-rain high desert hike feel about this wine – a focused and singular Syrah. Aged 10 months on the skins and then an additional year in amphora. (94 points)

Booker

2020 Booker Vineyard White – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $65
Rich yellow color. The nose shows creamy pears and peaches, honey, graham cracker crumbs, with higher-toned notes of chalk and floral perfume. Creamy, waxy texture, but surprising acidity, with pears and honeyed apples. Notes of nougat, honey, hay, so plush, pristine and fun, a rare occasion of a lively Rhone white-based blend. Would love to see how this ages. What a cool mix of Viognier with 33% Roussanne, 10% Chardonnay, 7% Marsanne, aged in 60% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Booker Vineyard Harvey and Harriet – USA, California, Central Coast, San Luis Obispo County
SRP: $30
Deep purple color. Wow, these waves of blackberries and blueberries with a smooth, inviting appeal, along with eucalyptus, violets and cocoa. Full and smooth on the palate with velvety but structured tannins, and the vibrant acidity is killer. Tart blueberries, tangy black currants, the fruit is tart and deep but laced with beefy, savory, peppery tones. Eucalyptus, white pepper, violets, tar, clove, there’s also this stony, mineral, earth depth. Fan-friendly but complex and nerdy, too – a win-win, and a lot of value. Cabernet Sauvignon with Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, aged 18 months in 60% new oak. (91 points)

2019 Booker Vineyard My Favorite Neighbor – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $50
Bright purple color. Juicy and deep on the nose with blueberry pie, roasted figs, along with earth, smoky, beefy tones, with mocha and toffee – a lot going on. The palate shows a suave a smooth mouthfeel with lively acidity and dusty tannic structure. Black currant and blueberry fruit mixes well with complex tones of gravelly road, mesquite, coffee grounds, black tea. Concentrated and age-worthy, but vibrant as well. Gorgeous stuff. 77% Cab with 11 % Petit Verdot, 8% Petite Sirah, 3% Syrah and 1% Malbec, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. (93 points)

2018 Booker Vineyard Syrah Fracture – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $98

Dark purple color. The nose shows a gorgeous mix of smoky, beefy, mesquite and leather over top of tart blackberry and currants, deep yet inviting. The palate shows structured tannins and gobs of fruit, but we have to talk about the acidity – marvelous! Keeps it fresh as the black currant and blueberry fruit washes over, along with notes of graphite, iron, black pepper, black olives, mesquite and roasted red pepper. Big but complex and nuanced, this will age wonderfully for a long time. Really impressive stuff Syrah that has earned its reputation. All Syrah aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. (95 points)

Aridus

2021 Aridus Sauvignon Blanc – USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $35
Pale lemon color. Smells like a mix of lemons, white peaches, with cucumbers, chalk dust, some white pepper – interesting! Which is a lot more than I can say for Arizona SB. On the palate, this has a cool mix of bright acidity and creamy texture, with lemons, grapefruit, orange peel, tossed with mint, white pepper, along with some honey and white flowers. Really pleasant and as weird as Arizona SB may sound, this is a wine worth checking out. (88 points)

2019 Aridus Viognier – USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $35
Medium yellow color. The nose shows rich yellow peaches and pineapple, along with honey, hay and some whipped butter. Rich and creamy (of course) but there’s also this salty, perfumed tones. Yellow apples, orange marmalade, pear butter, mixed with honey, graham cracker. But there are also these balanced elements of flowers and bright lemon zest. Delicious. Aged 19 months in old French oak. (88 points)

2019 Aridus Graciano – USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $46
Deep purple color. The aromas show a mix of smoky tar, jammy blueberries and blackberries, along with cocoa, anise, and these gravelly, earth tones. Chewy tannins on the palate, low acidity holds this back, but enjoyable ripe cherries and plums. Plum cake, cocoa, tobacco, this is sun-roasted Graciano goodness. Aged 16 months in oak. (87 points)

2018 Aridus Syrah – USA, Arizona, Cochise County
SRP: $46
Deep purple color. Smells of plum cake and black cherries, saucy and spicy with tobacco, mint, cocoa, anise, scorched earth. Smooth tannins on the palate with moderating acidity and a chewy feel with the black cherries and saucy plums. Peppery, smoky, coffee-y, with barbecue sauce and beef jerky. Lots of fun, ripe but nuanced, this is a great intro into what can be done with Syrah in Arizona. Includes 10% Viognier, aged in 50% new French oak. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Thursday, May 12, 2022

California Cabernets and Wolf Wines

I’ve recently returned from a wonderful trip to Portugal and am back to focusing on some goodies from California.

Napa Cabernet is classic for a reason, and I’ve got some solid ones this week.

Since opening in 2014, Hamel has been putting out some really exciting wines from Sonoma Valley and Moon Mountain District. This was my first time trying their Nuns Canyon Cab and, just, wow. Calla Lily comes out swinging with two delightful Cabs worthy of consideration and cellar space, followed up by Cliff Lede’s latest Stag’s Leap Cab offering.

This was my first time tasting wines from Napa’s Lobo Wines. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir offered a lot more brightness and finesse than I was expecting, and the reds offer a lot of earthy, spicy vibes to enjoy. They planted their first Chardonnay vines in Oak Knoll about 20 years ago, and then found their 42-acre Atlas Peak property in 2007.While not inexpensive, these wines really deliver for the price.

Ram’s Gate makes another appearance here with two exciting wines. Their Chards and Pinots are delicious across the board, but this new Hyde Chardonnay is really something. And Paso’s Tooth and Nail keep on trucking with some burly but well-made red blends.

These wines were received as trade samples. For this report, I tasted the Cabernets below single-blind, and the rest of the wines sighted.

Cabernets

2018 Hamel Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Nuns Canyon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Moon Mountain District
SRP: $160
Deep purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose with a core of tart blueberries and deep black cherries, mixed with lots of eucalyptus, mint, chewing tobacco, some coffee and tilled soil, just a gorgeous aromatic display. Solid grip, vibrant acidity, built so well with tangy, crunchy blueberries and dark currants. The stony, graphite, charcoal, pepper and cocoa accents are really attractive, and there’s this focused, fascinating minerality underneath that is awesome. Fermented in a mix of concrete, steel and oak and aged 20 months in French oak, this has a mighty long life of growth ahead of it. (94 points)

2017 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Ultimate Red - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Dark purple. The nose shows a warm, inviting mix of currants and blackberries, tossed with classic Napa Cab goodness like eucalyptus, cedar, coffee – a lot to unpack. Full but fresh on the palate with structured but suave tannins and lively acidity to balance it out – the mouthfeel is just gorgeous. Juicy black cherry fruit blends well with a mix of coconut shavings, cola and clove, along with tilled soil, rocky earth and graphite. There is a lot going on here, and it really needs some time, but the core of quality is so solid. Cabernet with Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 40% new French oak. (92 points)

2016 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $120
Vibrant purple color. Deep, concentrated yet lively aromas of tart plums, currants and cherries, tossed with roasted herbs, anise, cedar and cocoa – a lot going on and its all warm and inviting. Full-bodied, smooth but structured tannins, balanced with vibrant acidity. A tangy, juicy core of black cherries and blueberries, gorgeous fruit, mixed with cool notes of roasted red pepper, charcoal, coffee, and an underlying sense of gravelly earth and graphite. Really well done, this could use five years and will improve for many more. Aged 27 months in 50% new French oak. Cabernet with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. (93 points)

2019 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $82
Bright purple color. The tangy blueberry and black cherry fruit aromas are backed up by incense sticks, cedar, cocoa, mint, pencil shavings and stony earth. Bold but smooth, structured tannins, moderating acidity, the balance is really nice. Dark but lively blackberry fruit, tossed with tar, gravel, loam, charcoal, along with nuances of coffee and cedar. Nice and deep, well-made, balanced, this could use at least a few years but already showing refinement and finesse. Includes a combined 18% Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot, aged 21 months in 38% new French oak. (92 points)

Lobo Wines

2020 Lobo Wines Chardonnay Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
SRP: $70
Light yellow color. Really interesting nose of lemons and yellow apples, with nice shots of sea salt and brine, topped with crushed walnut and whipped honey – really nice. Beautiful texture on the palate, shows a honeyed feel with medium acidity, paired with lemon slices, ripe white peaches and yellow apples. Chalky, flinty, salty, mineral undertones make this really exciting, while richer notes of nougat, whipped butter and honey add depth and enjoyment on the finish. Full maloactic fermentation, aged in 75% new French oak. (91 points)

2015 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
SRP: $N/A
Bright cherry color. Smells dusty and earthy in a very pleasant way, with rhubarb, white pepper, some beef jerky and rose hip tones, all over tangy cranberry and red cherries. Fresh and zippy on the palate with sweet raspberry and tangy strawberries, dusty tannins. Notes of roses, clove, pepper, earth, along with cedar and light roast coffee, woven in nicely. Juicy, tangy, spicy, elegant Pinot Noir here. (91 points)

2018 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. The nose is vibrant but sweet with red plums and pomegranate fruit, along with rose petals, clove, pepper, dried flowers. Smooth tannins, the acidity is zesty, it is balanced well with raspberry and black cherry, some cranberry relish, tangy but warm and silky. Clove, leather, dried rose petals, notes of savory spices and clay earth come out with time. Delicious now but could show some cool elements with a few years. Aged 11 months in 35% new French oak. (90 points)

2018 Lobo Wines Howl Wulff Vineyards - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
SRP: $70
Lively purple color. Aromas of cherries and dark currants, laced with a fun host of black pepper, beef drippings, charcoal, with violets and dark, scorched earth. Tangy currants and blueberry fruit over a bed of chewy tannins and zesty acidity. The pepper, paprika, roasted red pepper, soy and balsamic glaze notes add spicy, savory goodness, which lingers long on the finish with the dark fruit. Already showing a lot of complexity, but two or three years (or sipping over a few days) will do this Syrah good. Syrah with 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. (90 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Wulff Vineyards
- USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $80
Deep purple. A warm nose of black cherries and saucy currants, with mesquite, pepper, coffee, dark chocolate shavings, forest floor. Full and suave on the palate, smooth tannins and the acidity is medium. Ripe black currants, cherry preserves, tangy black cherries, the fruit is mixed well with notes of violets, tobacco, toffee and coffee grounds. A sweet, chewy finish but stays lively and nuanced. Stainless steel fermentation, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. Great to go now or hold for a few. (90 points)

2018 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $95
Bright purple color. Wow, the nose is deep but lively with a cool blend of blueberries and tangy black cherry fruit, laced with warm black tea, tar, anise and cracked black pepper. Velvety but well-built tannins on the palate, vibrant acidity, with suave plums and blackberry fruit. Notes of magic marker, cocoa, mint and clove add a lot to ponder, and there are dusty, earthy, oregano, pencil lead and leather notes that really pop as well. A lot to unwrap, I’d give this five or six years, but it shows a lot of depth, personality and concentration. Aged 18 months in 75% new French oak. (92 points)

Others

2019 Ram's Gate Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $70
Medium yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd and yellow apples laced with notes of meringue, ginger, honey and nougat – a rich but inviting display. Creamy, deep texture with zesty acidity and gorgeous balance. Lemon and papaya fruit, rich but zesty, with complex notes of meringue, white flowers, sea salt, shaved almond. Pure, focused, crystalline, this will age wonderfully. One of the best Chardonnays I’ve tasted from this producer. (93 points)

2019 Ram's Gate Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
SRP: $85
Deep ruby color. Aromas of bright cherries and raspberries, mixed with complex notes of cola, rhubarb, white pepper, notes of pepperoni and paprika. The palate shows a zippy and a dusty tannic frame over top of tangy raspberry and cherry fruit. Notes of rose petals, tobacco, pepper and spiced black tea add quite a bit of complexity. Balanced, vibrant, earth and minerals on the finish. Refined, pretty Carneros Pinot. (92 points)

2019 Tooth & Nail Wines The Stand - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $36
Dark purple color. Nose shows roasted figs, saucy plums, with coconut shavings, coffee, toffee, rich but nuanced and vibrant. The palate shows sweet tannins and moderate acid, a chewy and full texture wih notes of cocoa, coconut, black pepper, caramelized sugar. Fun and chewy but refreshing and complex as well, this begs for steak and grilled vegetable kabobs. Petite Syrah, Syrah and Viognier, aged 15 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)

2019 Tooth & Nail Wines The Possessor - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $36
Deep purple color. The nose is full of fig paste, rich and saucy blueberries, smoky, beefy rontes, with cocoa, cedar, graphite and anise – a lot to unpack. Jammy and plush on the palate, chewy tannins, smooth acidity. Plums and blackberry jam mixes with notes of cocoa, toffee, anise and cocoa. A deep, but inviting wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Malbec. (90 points)

Friday, April 22, 2022

An Ode to Praia dos Supertubos

Happy Earth Day!

The ocean gives us everything. May we strive to be better stewards than we were last year.


I love it when one of the best waves of a session goes unridden, even in a crowded field of highly talented surfers. It serves as a good reminder that no one bests the ocean -- nobody conquers anything. Rather, we commune with the waves for a period of time, harness the ocean's raw energy, and return to shore rejuvenated, humbled and stoked.

What a truly astounding wave this is, and I am so thankful to mother ocean and the absolute charging locals who shared it with me. About 15 years ago now, I was surfing my home break in New Jersey on a fun four-foot day. I noticed two guys who seemed experienced but not from around here, so I paddled up and asked them where they were from. Portugal, one said. I was shocked. "No way! Where exactly?" They said Peniche. It blew my mind and I expressed how stoked I was to have Portuguese surfers visiting my wave. I officially welcomed them, and told them to have fun. They even said it reminded them of home on a small day. I told them I had always wanted to surf Supertubos. "You must," one said. So I said, "OK, I will," not knowing if I would ever live to see that promise fulfilled.



I was sitting on the beach, preparing myself mentally on a particularly intimidating Supertubos dawn raid -- six foot and barreling heavier than I've seen at that size, eight foot sneaker closeout sets, howling offshore winds, nobody yet out on the peak. A bodyboarder, older than me, with the look and presence of a true OG who I'd seen out a few times, comes up and asks me where I'm from. I say Bom Dia but he asks in English and somehow knows I'm American. "USA East Coast - New Jersey." He gives me a nod and says, "Welcome to our waves," and paddles out. No one had ever just come up to me and been so explicitly welcoming, in all the places I've traveled and shared waves. 

Dues must be payed.

I'm so thankful I was able to surf this wave a lot in different conditions and sizes, and get to know it a bit. I am humbled and in awe of this magical stretch of sand.

Sunday, April 17, 2022

Malbec and More from Argentina

Welcome back. I hope your Spring is going well so far. Seems like there’s a “day” for everything these days: Donut Day; National Sibling Day; National Ditch Work and Go Fishing Day. OK, one of those might not be a “thing.”

But today, April 17, is “World Malbec Day,” set to commemorate the first agricultural school in Argentina, which opened in 1853.

For a long time now, Malbec and Argentina have become synonymous in the minds of many wine consumers – you all know this. The sprawling vineyards of Mendoza and other regions are home to so much Malbec, Malbec-based blends, not to mention other Bordeaux varieties.

And another great thing? You can probably find all of these babies for less than $25. These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2021 Alavida Malbec Kosher – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $19
Vibrant purple color. The nose shows juicy red cherries and plums, with sweet cola and violets, a lot of fun on the nose. Smooth tannins, moderate acidity, with tart currants and spicy cranberries. An accessible style, fresh and fun, with notes of pepper, tobacco and some earthy vibes. Nicely done, fan-friendly stuff. Aged in 10% new French oak. (87 points)

2019 Bodegas Salentein Malbec Reserve – Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco
SRP: $17
Dark purple color. Ooh, this has a ton to offer on the nose, with a compote of warm blackberry and cherries, laced with coffee, pencil lead, lots of coffee grounds, charcoal and tobacco – impressive. Medium-bodied, refined tannins, fresh acidity, supporting the tart but deep plum and currant fruit. Complexities of chewing tobacco, graphite, coffee and scorched earth. I even get some mushroom and soy glaze elements. Really fresh and vibrant but shows a lot of depth. I was shocked to see the price point. (91 points)

2018 Mascota Vineyards Malbec Unánime – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $25
Violet color. The nose exudes sweet plums and dark currants, roasted figs and plum cakes, with notes of mocha, mesquite, with gravelly, iron and tilled soil elements. Smooth and chewy, suave tannins, vibrant acidity with tangy, dark plums, currants and blackberries. Notes of dark chocolate and coconut shavings, coffee grounds, black tea, iron, gravel, potting soil – there’s a lot of going on, here. Nuanced, expressive, but this will also age well for a few years. Aged 15 months in new French oak. (90 points)

2020 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec High Mountain Vines – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $22
Light purple color. Juicy and suave on the nose with jammy black cherries, mixed with warm black tea, cocoa, some minty, earthy vibes. Medium-bodied, soft tannins and vibrant acidity on the palate makes this a playful, accessible style with tart black cherry and raspberry compote. Notes of tobacco, spicy paprika, some clove. Lots of fun. (87 points)

2020 Trivento Malbec Reserve – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
A lively purple color. The nose pops with sweet blueberries and blackberry jams, along with mocha, toffee and red licorice, with some stony, earthy vibes. Plush texture on the palate with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Juicy cherries and blackberries  with some sweet cocoa, loamy earth and stony mineral tones. A down-the-middle Malbec but “real” tasting, too. Smooth, lively, crowd-pleasing stuff. For this price point… again, another great example of Mendoza Malbec value. (88 points)

2018 Trapiche Malbec Gran Medalla – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
An electric purple color. The nose is deep with plum sauce and jammy cherries, mixed with earth, warm stones, shaved pencil lead, with mocha and some iron tones. Zesty acidity on the palate keeps this really fresh, while smooth tannins support the snappy blueberry and black cherry fruit. Roasted figs, mocha, toffee and espresso mix with elements of graphite, paved road, dried violet petals. Tangy and deep but an accessible feel as well, this has a lot of vibrancy, spice and appeal. (90 points)

2019 Orfila Malbec Estate Selection – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $15
Bright purple color. Gorgeous smoky, minty, peppery nose, with warm sage, dark chocolate shavings, all over top of tangy plum fruit. The palate shows a balanced blend of dust tannins, tangy acidity and tart black currant fruit. Elements of roasted red peppers, cracked black pepper and anise mix with graphite, minerals and even some meaty tones. A whole lot of balance and depth in here for the price. Aged in a mix of French and American oak. (89 points)

2018 Orfila Malbec Reserva – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Gorgeous nose, deep but alive, tart but juicy, with blackberries and dark plums tossed together with smoky, meaty, peppery, paved road tones. The grippy tannins offer a nice backbone, while fresh acidity keeps it lip-smacking, and I get bright currant and blueberry fruit that shows a lot of depth. Laced with spicy, earthy, peppery notes, along with coffee, pencil shavings and rose potpourri. Great mouthfeel and minerals on the finish, another wine that shocked me with its price. Mendoza Malbec value, for the win! Aged 12 months in a mix of French and American oak. (91 points)

Other wines

2020 Orfila Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Selection – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $15
Medium purple color. So spicy on the nose! Tobacco, bell peppers, tar, pepper, smoked meats – lovely stuff – over tart black currant fruit. The palate shows refreshing acidity and suave tannins with crunchy red and black currant fruits. The violet petals, pepper, tar and pepperoni elements add a nice kick. Savory, earthy, it’s accessible and an early-drinking style but the complexity is really nice. (89 points)

2018 Orfila Reserva – Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $20
Dark purple. Smells like tart currants and blackberries, along with some pine tar, smoked meats, beef drippings, tobacco and sage – a really cool combo. Smooth tannins, vibrant acidity, juicy and vibrant black cherry fruit, it all is woven together really well. Violets, tar, anise, mint, cocoa, these elements play off each other nicely and this wine has a lot of personality and freshness that I find very attractive. 50/50 Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in a mix of French and American oak. (90 points)

2018 Luigi Bosca Cabernet Franc De Sangre ­- Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $22
Deep purple color. The nose shows a lovely mix of smoky tar and tobacco over dark plums, black cherries, and tossed with cocoa, pepper, bay leaf and coffee. Saucy yet fresh on the palate with dusty tannins and tangy blueberries and black cherries. Alive and vibrant with complexities of pepper ,warm clay, tobacco and sage. Delightful now but this should age nicely for five years or so. Really solid value in here. (90 points)

2019 Bodega El Esteco Cabernet Sauvignon Don David Reserve – Argentina, Salta, Cafayate
SRP: $13
Vibrant purple color. The nose of blueberries, roasted figs, dark plums, with lots of black pepper, dried red pepper and eucalyptus – so spicy and interesting. Medium/full-bodied but fresh with chewy tannins, with blackberries and blueberries. There’s a complex mix of charcoal, smoky earth, black pepper, charcoal. A stony, mineral essence throughout – really balanced and lively. Classic Argentina Cab, and I was surprised to see the price point. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Thursday, March 17, 2022

Chablis is the perfect spring wine

Chablis has long been one of my favorite wines. As a lover of all things oceanic, I feel for these wines when I discovered them as a young 20-something. The best ones reminded me of oyster shells, lemon slices, and getting rolled around beneath the waves. I was hooked.

All these years later, I still keep up with them, checking in on the vintage, preparing wines for summer seafood and gatherings with other Chablis-loving friends. And after a good day of surfing, in my book there is nothing better than a crisp, nervy Chablis.

So I was happy to receive a few Chablis releases for this report, thee “entry-level” Chablis wines that overdeliver, and a 1er Cru. I’d be stoked to have any of these on my table this spring with some seafood and good company. Spring has sprung -- enjoy!

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single-blind.

2018 Domaine Corinne et Jean Pierre Grossot Chablis – France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $27
Rich yellow color. Classic aromas of limes, lemon and papaya with a nice dose of salty, briny, shell tones. Zippy on the palate with some nice depth and texture, plenty of fresh citrus fruit. Flinty, salty, chalky vibes add complexity. This is fun and fresh but sports a lot of complexity, too. (90 points)

2019 Camille & Laurent Schaller Chablis – France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $23
Light yellow color. Gorgeous nose of chalk, sea salt, hay, white flowers, over top of lemons and limes. Crisp but nice and creamy with lemons and yellow apples. Pleasant waxy tones balance well off racy chalk, limestone, and there are this pretty floral and honey tones. Clear and classic, a lot going on. (89 points)

2019 Domaine du Colombier Chablis – France, Burgundy, Chablis
SRP: $20
Light yellow color. The nose is a mix of lemons topped in honey and chamomile with some chalky, minty, stony tones. Bright and fun, fresh acidity balances some nice creamy pears and yellow apple fruit. Focused and light with salty, stone tones. A solid intro Chablis with some pleasant creaminess and friendly appeal. (88 points)

2018 Domaine Ventoura Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume – France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
SRP: $36
Light yellow color. Lovely salinity and chalk dust elements on the nose, slate, oyster shells, honey and flowers, a whole lot to accent the lemon and green apple fruit. Crisp and nervy on the palate with deep texture, lovely interplay between the zesty acidity. Lemons, green apple and kiwi fruit play well off of flinty, oyster shell, saline tones. Clear, fresh, mineral-laden finish. I’d love to see this in five years. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.