My Favorite Wine Vacation Spot

I try to craft pretty much every vacation around two things: wine and waves.

South Africa has unique and incredibly high quality examples of both. It's my pick for best wine vacation spot in the world.

Check out my recommendation, and a bunch from other wine writers, in Snooth's February Wine Writers Round-Up.

Time-Tested Madeira Wines From Justino's

“There are plenty of fortified wines, but when it comes to that combination of freshness and saltiness, you can only count on Madeira.”

So said Commercial Director Julio Fernandes as we tasted through a lineup of wines from his employer, Justino’s. And I couldn't agree more: that streak of freshness, those oceanic and salty breeze accents, they’re what keep me coming back to Madeira wines.

I recently traveled to the home of these iconic and historic fortified wines, Madeira, a volcanic Portuguese island located a few hundred miles off the coast of Morocco, and had the time of my life. The island is a treasure trove of pristine coastline, stunning cliffs, mountain forests, hardscrabble vines, fruit trees, flowers, great cuisine and, of course, it's eponymous wines, which are some of the best and most long-lived on the planet.  

Other posts from my trip to Madeira:

Barbeito: Tradition Done Differently

Unfortified: The Still Wines of Madeira

With only about 500 hectares of vines (about 1,200 acres), this is a small wine-producing region. But Justino’s is the island’ s largest house, producing slightly more than half of Madeira exports. This house has been in operation since 1870, and their annual production is now more than a million liters (although that includes bulk wine used for cooking and dessert products as well). 

Justino’s wines appear under various labels, depending on the export market. Some wines fall under the Broadbent Selections brand (including many in the U.S.) while others are sold as Justino’s Henriques. (Henriques & Henriques is Justino's sister wine producer.)

Justino's biggest export clients are France, Germany, Japan and, of course, the United States. “We are always increasing our sales to the United States,” Julio said. He added that the company is trying to focus on more diverse and emerging markets within the U.S., “not just New York and San Francisco.” And Julio said he’s worked with hospitality schools in the U.S. to conduct Madeira-focused tastings and cooking classes.  

Getting the next generation of wine drinkers excited about fortified (and often sweet) wine isn’t easy, but Madeira producers are hoping their unique style of production and the long historical connection between America and Madeira will catch on with wine consumers of my age bracket.

Justino’s isn’t done growing yet. Julio told me his firm has set a goal of 20-30% increase over the next decade. While many wineries look for shorter term gains, Madeira producers are accustomed to the lack of immediate results. The most basic, entry-level Madeira wines require the three years of aging, while many wines are aged for five, 10 and 15 years, many for even longer.

“Madeira is different,” Julio told me, stating the obvious. Everything takes time here, and a long-range outlook is necessary: “We are not selling wine. We are selling a product that will live forever.”

As this tasting demonstrated, some of these wines sure seem indestructible. I tasted through a wide range of Justino’s wines and found a lot to like, especially the older vintage wines.

Below are my notes from a great tasting.

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Rainwater Medium Dry - Portugal, Madeira
Bright, clean aromatics of oranges and white flowers. Crisp but nutty on the palate, showing a bit of complexity, with a clean, bright finish. Aged three years. (85 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Fine Rich Sweet - Portugal, Madeira
Nutty with lots of caramel on the nose, a slight floral kick. The palate is full of sweet raisins and candied almonds. Fun, a bit simple, sweet but stays quite fresh. Aged three years. (85 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira 5 Year Old Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of sweet caramel, orange rind and candied nuts. On the palate, I get raisins, quince paste, candied nuts. This is the same wine as the three year, it’s just aged two more years. It’s really interesting to see what an addition two years of aging does. Significantly more smooth and complex. (87 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Sercial 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of fresh oranges and limes along with quince and white flowers. So tangy and salty on the palate, even a bit briny, which I love. I get dried flowers, clove, nuts and a range of sea salty notes. A bright and precise Sercial. (88 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Verdelho 10 Year Old - Portugal, Madeira
A richly tropical aromatic spread of honey, glazed pears, sliced peaches and exotic flowers. Juicy texture to the palate but tart acidity (great balance between brightness and richness). Flavors of pineapples and dried mango topped with honey and crushed nuts. I love the floral components and the racy quality of this wine. (88 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Boal 10 Year Old - Portugal, Madeira
Rich aromas of honey and orange marmalade. Sweet and plush on the palate with honey, almond, nougat and sweet raisins. Despite this flavor profile, this is a fresher style of Bual with lingering acidity. (88 points)

N.V. Broadbent Madeira Malmsey 10 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Complex aromatics: earthy-spicy tones, musk, cigar smoke. Smooth, round and plus on the nose. Complex elements of orange and apricot jams, spiced tea, honeycomb. Long and rich but so fresh with a lingering sense of pleasant bitterness. (88 points)

1996 Justino's Madeira Wines Madeira Colheita - Portugal, Madeira
Lovely aromas of dried honey, almonds and caramel. Sweet and round on the palate but it maintains a salty freshness that is very attractive. Flavors of apricot jam mix with pecans, almonds, caramel and a bold sense of floral spice. Wow, this will be one to watch for decades to come. Made from Tinta Negra. (91 points)

1999 Justino's Madeira Wines Madeira Colheita - Portugal, Madeira
A bit darker in its aromas of caramel and nuts than the 1996. Creamier, rounded, a bit fatter, but still vibrant. Apricots, sweet raisins, caramel, mixed nuts. Long and velvety. Made from Tinta Negra. (90 points)

1940 Justino Henriques Madeira Sercial - Portugal, Madeira
Seriously complex aromas here: almond, sea salt, clover, baby’s breath, honey and a somewhat sharp shot of volatile acidity. Bright and really salty on the palate, the VA is balanced and woven in well with the wine’s richness and complexity of flavors. Dried apricot and pineapple mixes with almonds, sea salt and oyster brine. The complexity here is awesome, but this wine is severely sharp, almost abrasive. I can’t help but love it. As Julio Fernandes said, he likes this wine because “it gives you fight.” It definitely does. (92 points)

I doubt I'll ever forget that 1954 Verdelho - one of the best wines I've ever tasted.

1954 Justino Henriques Madeira Verdelho - Portugal, Madeira
The aromas on this wine are complex, intriguing and sort of ridiculous. Clove, almond, anise, flowers, potpourri, all sorts of nuances. So pure and silky on the palate, the balance is impeccable. Smooth but complex, bright but rich, such a sexy and fascinating wine. Flavors of yellow raisin and dried pineapple are pure and delicious, followed up by waves of caramel, wax, almond, sea salt. So insanely complex that I would need a long time to analyze this wine and pull out all the nuances. But, in the end, it’s just a supremely enjoyable wine to sip. One of the best wines of the trip, and actually one of the best wines I’ve tasted in years. (98 points)

1978 Justino Henriques Madeira Terrantez - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of old books, library dust and crusty sea salt – quite weird but enjoyable in a unique way. Fresh acid, a strange bitterness to this wine, but not in an unpleasant way. Interesting but frankly strange flavors: hay, candle wax, almond, green olives, seaweed – a crazy wine, but I like it. One of the most oddly intriguing wines I’ve tasted. However, I think this seems to show its age more and I wonder how it will far in a decade or two. (90 points)

1964 Justino Henriques Madeira Boal - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of sweet almond cake, honey, bruised banana and cinnamon. Plump, full, almost tannic on the palate. Flavors of raisin cake, caramel, dates, along with some wood and hay elements. Pure, sweet, silky but stays bright and easy to drink. (91 points)

1964 Justino Henriques Madeira Malmsey - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of sweet raisins, honey, caramel, date and quince paste, some salted pecans (seriously complex). Smooth on the palate but still a bold structure – the liveliness of this wine is impressive. Flavors of dates, plum cake, quince, almond, sweet nougat. Long, bright finish. Wow. (92 points)

The volcanic rocky coastline of Madeira is a stunning, jagged, insane thing to see.

Horton Vineyards: Historic Virginia Vino

If you enjoy Virginia wine, and you’re social media savvy, there’s only one online place to gather: #VAWineChat. Frank Morgan, a friend and fellow blogger who tweets @DrinkWhatULike, has been bringing wine lovers and Virginia vintners together since 2013.

For its 35th iteration, we focused on Horton Vineyards, the reliable, long-running, and exceptional producer based in Orange County, Virginia. I’ve enjoyed Horton’s wines for years, so I was excited at the prospect of tasting some new releases and talking with winemaker, Michael Heny, a great guy who’s been with Horton for almost 20 years.

We tasted through three wines, a Viognier, a Cabernet Franc and a Norton, all of which were delicious and modestly priced.

Horton sealed its spot in Virginia wine history by bottling the first varietally-labeled Viognier from the commonwealth. Founder Dennis Horton made a bold move when he planted the first Viognier vines in the United States back in 1989. This white grape of the Northern Rhone Valley in France was planted in very small amounts and in very few other places. Since then, Viognier has exploded all over the country, especially in California. In Virginia, at least 70 wineries make a Viognier, and in 2011 Viognier became Virginia’s official state grape.

Michael maintains (and I agree) that Viognier has found a sweet spot here. It’s not easy to grow, but Virginia Viogniers can be brighter and more refreshing than some of the richer, more honeyed wines from California. “Here in Virginia often time we get some cooler weather, some rain, ” Michael said. “We can hit that sweet spot without going over the top.” Horton now produces about 3,000 cases of Viognier a year. “There’s great demand for it,” Michael said, and other winemakers are always on the lookout for quality grapes. 

For my palate, Virginia’s best white wines come from Chardonnay and (although there aren’t as many examples) Petit Manseng, but I love Virginia Viognier. It has become a staple for a lot of producers and consumers (including myself), and I hope this trend continues. Fans of tropical fruit flavors and freshness, check out some Virginia Viognier, asap.

Horton is also a consistent producer of high-quality Cabernet Franc. The grape is planted widely around Virginia and bottled as a varietal wine or blended with other Bordeaux grapes like Cab Sauv, Merlot and Petite Verdot in many of the best Meritage blends. While some of the lesser Virginia Cab Franc’s can taste a bit green and weedy, Horton’s 2014 hits the spot, providing plenty of structure, bright fruit and complex herbal/spice elements.

Lastly, we tasted Horton’s Norton, which gets my vote for the coolest-sounding wine in the world. Norton is as American as it gets. This grape variety hails from Vitis aestivalis, a native American grape species. The grape was introduced by Dr. Daniel Norton of Richmond in the early 1800s. He believed the seedlings came from the obscure (and terribly named) grape variety Bland, and the father plant was a wild American vine. As such, the grape thrives in the mid-Atlantic climate, and it does well all over the country, from Oklahoma to Colorado to Georgia. Norton became the backbone of Missouri’s wine industry, and it is still that state’s official grape. “Norton is fantastic in the vineyard in this climate,” Michael said. It can require a lot of vineyard work, as the vines grow like crazy with leathery leaves, but if tended properly, Norton delivers in Virginia.

Norton grapes are high in anthocyanins, which are pigments that give the finished wine a rich purple/violet color. The finished wines can get a bit grapey and funky, but Horton’s is relatively user-friendly. And while the grape is a bit strange compared to traditional European varieties, Horton has no problem selling 3,000-4,000 cases of this stuff every year. “There’s a huge following for Norton out there,” Michael said. A lot of people buy multiple bottles for cellaring, he added, as this high tannin, high acid wine can age for quite a while.

If you are interested in exploring Virginia wine, and haven’t tried Horton, I highly recommend you check them out. At $20 or less, they are some of the best offers in the state.

I have pasted my tasting notes below...

2014 Horton Vineyards Viognier - Virginia, Central Virginia, Orange County
SRP: $20
Light gold color. Smells of juicy peaches, pineapple, honey, a blend of yellow and white flowers. Rich and creamy from the maloactic fermentation, but I love the balance between the waxy texture and the crisp acidity. Nothing heavy or goopy about this wine at all. A mix of rich flavors (banana, honey, pineapple, apricot jam) with brighter elements (kiwi, lime, baby’s breath, cucumber water, floral perfume). It includes 5% Petite Manseng. About 3,000 cases made, this is consistently a reliable Virginia Viognier for a moderate price, and the 2014 is on point. Paired with chicken tikka very nicely. (88 points)

2014 Horton Vineyards Cabernet Franc - Virginia, Central Virginia, Orange County
SRP: $20
Vibrant ruby color. Wow, these aromas are kicking. Such freshness in the fruit (strawberry, red currant, tart cherries), but also plenty of tobacco, pepper, sage, sweet clove, black licorice. Wow, so much to contemplate in here. Medium-bodied, quite sturdy on the tannic structure – impressive in its grip, but it shows a lot of freshness as well. A very pretty wine despite it wiry tannic structure and earthy, savory flavors. Juicy black cherries, tart red currant fruit, which is doused with smoke, spicy clove and cinnamon, tar, rose petals. Opens up a lot with air and could age quite well, I think. Spent six months in French, American and Hungarian oak. 79% Cabernet Franc, 14% Tannat, and 7% Merlot. (88 points)

2014 Horton Vineyards Norton - Virginia, Central Virginia, Orange County
SRP: $15
Vibrant magenta color. Aromas: Spicy, earthy and smoky notes on top of roasted chestnut, jammy blackberries, red apple peels, paved road – some unique and somewhat strange aromas. On the palate this is bold and rich with hard tannins but it’s so tart as well. Red apple, purple Laffy Taffy, tart cherries, tart strawberries, but there’s also this dark fruit compote and jam essence. On top of that, I get this streak of IPA, tarry pot pipe, old man musky cologne, sweaty leather jacket – I’m ranting and throwing craziness out there, obviously, but my point its: there is some nutty stuff going on with this wine. Only $15, so it’s wallet-friendly, so a lot of people drink them immediately, but I’d love to taste this in four or five years. Funky for sure, but an interesting example of Norton. (86 points)

New Zealand, Always Delivering the Value

This report was first published on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Since my last report on New Zealand, I’ve tasted through a range of bottles and found some tasty and value-driven wines. New Zealand really has the $12-$20 range dialed in, as producers continue to put out fan-friendly, popular Sauvignon Blancs, Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs.

Sure you can spend a lot of money in New Zealand, but for many wine drinkers (myself included) wines like these gave me a pleasant and rewarding introduction to this country’s vino.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

  

2015 Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

SRP: $12

Pale straw color. Bright and crunchy on the nose with bell pepper, white pepper and asparagus on top of white peaches and limes. Punchy and tart on the palate, brisk but slightly creamy, too. Limes, grapefruit, lemon pith, mixed with green pepper, grass and a slight mineral note. Crisp, clean, bright, this is a reasonably priced wine that is representational of its grape and place. (85 points)

2014 Mt Beautiful Sauvignon Blanc - New Zealand, South Island, Canterbury

SRP: $16

Medium straw color. Cool and clean on the nose with peaches, limes, white pepper and slight onion grass. Refreshing and clean on the palate, stays bright but some richer, honeyed elements as well. Lime drizzled on papaya is the flavor profile I get, add in some saline, white pepper, green onion, crushed chalk and honeysuckle. A fresh, interesting example, the complexity is impressive at this price point. 87 points

2014 Sea Pearl Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

SRP: $12

Bursting aromas of ruby red grapefruit, lemon pith, tangerine, matched with flavors of lemongrass, green pepper and sliced jalapeno. Bright acid, moderately creamy, juicy flavors of tangerine and ruby red grapefruit, some floral perfume, a good dose of sliced jalapeno and bell peppers with some baby’s breath and honeysuckle. Not very complex, but plays the part very well. (85 points)

2014 Mt Beautiful Chardonnay - New Zealand, South Island, Canterbury

SRP: $22

Bright, complex aromatic display: white peaches, creamy pears, sliced limes, clean laundry and white floral tones. Vibrant acidity on the palate, this is a precise wine but shows enough creaminess to add some depth. Flavors of green apples, green and yellow pears, tangerine, the fruit is bright and zesty but full of creamy complexity. I get salt air, river rocks, honeysuckle and a deep mineral concentration as well. This Chardonnay is impressive for its purity and complexity, let alone for its price point. (89 points)

2014 Mt Beautiful Pinot Gris - New Zealand, South Island, Canterbury

SRP: $19

Juicy green and yellow apples on the nose, along with honeycomb, white tea, baby’s breath and a hint of white peppery spice. Medium bodied, bright, crunchy acid but some creaminess as well. Tart green apples mix with notes of cantaloupe and honeydew melons. A sense of chalk and crushed shells plays off this baby’s breath and cut white flowers blend. Quite nice, with a solid finish, this delivers a lot for the price. (87 points)

2014 Villa Maria Pinot Noir Private Bin - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

SRP: $16

Deep ruby color. Aromas of juicy black cherries, raspberry jam, sweet cranberry sauce, hints of pepper. Medium-bodied, bright acid, a tart and fruity approach with juicy red cherries, cranberries in sauce and wild strawberries. Some interesting spice elements, tobacco, rhubarb, white pepper. Nice tartness, soft tannins, some smoky earth notes. Fun, a bit simple, but solid. (86 points)

2014 Mt Beautiful Pinot Noir North Canterbury - New Zealand, South Island, Canterbury

SRP: $25

Juicy ruby color. Smells of tart strawberries, juicy cherries, rose hips, tobacco, white pepper - aromatically, this is rocking. Lively structure on the palate with fine tannins, the acid is crisp and crunchy, combining for a mouthfeel that is slightly chewy but incredibly vibrant. Juicy black cherries mix with tart red currants, and the fruit is dusted with tobacco, white pepper, black tea, rose hips and hints of mushroom. Long, quite complex, this is an elegant Pinot that punches above its weight in terms of price. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak. (90 points)

Prime Time for Jura Wine

Jura wines boast their region in raised glass on the bottle.

I’m a huge fan of wines from France’s Jura region. They’ve been “hip” for quite a few years now – making appearances on natural wine lists at all sorts of wine bars and restaurants. My wine nerd friends and I love them, but the obscure varieties, small levels of production and old school labels and bottles might strike novices as strange. 

Sure some of these wines can be funky and earthy with intense acidity, and sometimes the whites show nutty and oxidized elements (depending on the producer and style). But I’m convinced Jura wines (sparkling, white and red) offer the wine newcomer an intellectually-fascinating and palate-expanding experience, but also a damn pleasurable one. When it comes to unique wines with quirky personalities and complex flavors, Jura wines are quintessential. 

The prices are right, that’s for sure. There are so many Jura wines that you can find in the $20-$25 range. As with any wine region, sure, you can spend more. But entry-level Jura wines are so much fun, and even the age-worthy wines frequently show well upon release. 

I recently tasted through a bunch of Jura wines at my favorite wine shop, Weygandt Wines in DC's Cleveland Park neighborhood. They've been importing a range of Jura wines for a while, and they're always on the lookout for new and exciting producers.

If you're looking for a unique and interesting wine, you can't do much better with $20-$30.

My notes:

N.V. Domaine Désiré Petit Crémant du Jura - France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
$21
Lots of spice and nutty elements on the nose. Creamy, spiced apple on the palate but so zesty. Flavors of toasted bread crumbs over oyster shells. Lots of fun, unique flavors. 100% Chardonnay. (88 points)

N.V. Domaine Désiré Petit Crémant du Jura - France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
$21
Zesty aromas of roses, baby’s breath and strawberries. Crisp and spicy on the palate, full of strawberries and white peach, accented by notes of white tea and spice. Very good for under $20. 100% Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2011 Les Granges Paquenesses Côtes du Jura La Mamette - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$23
This is getting better and better with age. Lots of minerals and stones with some salted almond accents to the melon and orange fruit. I’m impressed by the depth and complexity this is gaining but it’s still so fresh and vibrant. (89 points)

2014 Domaine Didier Grappe Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Novelin - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$25
So bright and clean, with flowers, sea spray and clean laundry on the nose. Creamy palate but so tangy and salty with a brightness that tingles onto the finish. (87 points)

2014 Les Granges Paquenesses Côtes du Jura La Pierre - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$28
Non-oxidized style, this is a fresh, bright and salty wine with a lovely creaminess as well. Zesty but nervy, tons of mineral complexity, along with notes of honeycomb and white tea. Lovely stuff. (90 points)

2013 Caveau de Bacchus Melon à Queue Rouge Aviet - France, Jura, Arbois
$35
Smells peachy and clean with orange rind and lime juice. Rich but crunchy and salty on the palate. Lime and orange peels mixed with crunchy sea salt and hints of white pepper. Bright, long finish. Really interesting stuff – I’d love to cellar some for a few years and see what comes out. (90 points)

2014 Domaine Désiré Petit Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
$21
I love the fresh aromatics of Trousseau, and this one is so perfumed: black tea, roses, spiced red berry compote. Crisp and juicy on the palate with red cherries and red apple peel. Clean and soft tannins with fresh acid. Salty and spicy on the finish. So good for the money. (89 points)

2011 Domaine de la Pinte Pinot Noir Arbois - France, Jura, Arbois
$30
Fresh, vibrant and floral aromatics, fresh raspberries and cherries. Silky but structured with fine, dusty tannins and, of course, bright, refreshing acid. Tart cherries and wild strawberries mix with black tea, bay leaf and pepper. Vibrant and open now but I’m interested to see what develops in the next two to four years. (90 points)

2014 Domaine Didier Grappe Côtes du Jura Insouciantes - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
$30
Very interesting aromatics here: wild cherries, red apple, grapefruit, and a host of spice and nut elements. Great acid, fine tannins, the crunchy red berries are laced with spices and herbs. That acidity is rocking and this wine is pure and vibrant. Trousseau, Ploussard and Pinot blend. (90 points)

Barbeito Madeira: Tradition Done Differently

This article was first published on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

During a trip to Madeira earlier this month, I visited six of the eight producers on this volcanic Portuguese island. During each visit, I tried to conceptualize each producer’s individual aesthetic within the context of the larger Madeira puzzle.

D’Oliveiras was the classic, wise elder of the group. H.H. Borges was the precise, focused practitioner. Barbeito was the skillful contender, full of potential and excitement.



Barbeito has been around since 1946, but in a land so rich with winemaking history, that actually makes it the youngest producer on the island of Madeira. (A new producer is in the works, but hasn't yet brought any wines to market.) Barbeito is also the most innovative producer on the island, and the firm is offering up a host of options that should entice the next generation of wine-drinkers. Their wines (which total about a quarter-million liters per year) have a common racy appeal and attractive freshness. These are fortified wines that scream "I'm food friendly!" The colors are lighter, ranging from lemon rind to medium orange, and the labels are playful and bright.  

Leandro shows me the estufa, large steel vats, which are
heated with pipes to speed up the traditional process of
exposing the wines to heat and oxygen in barrel rooms.
The process is only used for the most basic, 3-year wines.

The winery is located way up in the precarious hills above Funchal, a stark contrast from downtown street headquarters of Blandy’s, D’Oliveiras and Borges. This facility, opened in 2008, is steely and modern, boasting top-notch equipment like a robotic lugar (a machine that replicates the old tradition of stomping grapes by foot).

“Here we try to combine tradition with innovation,” Leandro Gouveia, Barbeito's wine shop manager, told me during my visit. 

Barbeito was the first Madeira house to use the grape variety Tinta Negra on the label. Tinta Negra, a red grape variety, is the most common grape on the island, but until recently the name was not permitted to be listed on the label. This stems from an old (but odd) perception that Tinta Negra is not a noble grape, like the heralded white varieties Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia and Terrantez. Tinta Negra is handled just like a white grape, and despite its humble stature, the grape is behind some absolutely stunning wines, as Barbeito demonstrates.

Speaking of red grapes, Barbeito is also reintroducing Bastardo to the market. Yes, this awesomely named grape is a historical treasure in Madeira, but unless it’s a bottle from decades (or even centuries) past, you’re not likely to come across the name on a label. Barbeito plans to release small amounts of Bastardo to see if it gains traction.

While I applaud Barbeito for trying some different things, the producer's innovation and experimentation is completely relative. Barbetio’s efforts must been seen within the context of a tightly regulated wine industry. This ain't California. You can't plant any grape anywhere, make a quirky wine and see if people will buy it. To bottle Madeira, one must follow a series of very specific rules. Every bottle of Madeira that goes to market has jumped through lots of hoops.

The Madeira Wine Institute, which regulates Madeira wine's denomination of origin, certifies seemingly every aspect of the grape-growing, winemaking and aging processes. Finished wines are analyzed in a lab to ensure their sugar and acidity levels fall within the approved framework, and a tasting panel approves every wine before it is sold. Sercial is dry and Malvasia is richly sweet, period. You can't bottle a dry Malvasia or a sweet Sercial. This sounds heavy-handed, but Madeira is a uniquely historic wine that is made with unique methods. And the MWI aims to keep it that way.

Rubina Viera, who heads up the Madeira Wine Institute's tasting panel, told me that respecting the special heritage and history of Madeira is crucial to the survival of this wine. "If we sacrifice our history," she said, "we will die."

Barbeito isn't sacrificing anything, but their efforts add a bit more texture to the overall canvas of Madeira wine.

Unfortunately, winemaker Ricardo Freitas wasn't around when I visited. (Levi Dalton recently interviewed Barbeito winemaker Ricardo Freitas on his podcast, I’ll Drink to That. If you’re interested in Madeira and want a ton of in-depth information on Barbeito, this is an awesome resource.) Leandro Gouveia was an excellent host, however, and he poured me a long lineup of Madeira wine to taste.

First, we tasted some young wines, with the goal of analyzing the primary aromas and flavors. These wines had already been fortified to around 17% alcohol, two degrees below the usual bottling point of 19%.

2015 Sercial (sample)
This is a skin-fermented wine in an “extra dry” style already fortified to about 17% alcohol. Smells salty and steely with bright citrus juice and pith. So bright and insanely salty on the palate (I love it!) along with flavors of green apple, orange peel, raw almond and sea salt. Tart, lively, this gets the whole palate firing.

2015 Tinta Negra (sample)

Left: 2015 Tinta Negra. Right: 2010 Tinta Negra. The Madeira aging process of
oxidation, fortification and extended barrel aging does amazing things to the color.

Very interesting to taste a young example of Tinta Negra, before it fully develops into classic Madeira. It’s a ruby color in the glass. Smells of ruby red grapefruit, juicy raspberries, dusty earth and violets. Tastes strong, powerful, with tart red fruits and sweet floral notes. Reminds me of a sample from a fermenting vat, but stronger. This wine was fortified to 17% once it reached 10% alcohol from natural fermentation.  

2010 Tinta Negra (sample)
Interesting contrast to the 2015 Tinta Negra with its golden orange color. After five years of oxidation, this smells of honey, wildflowers, orange peels and almonds. Tart, almost searing, acidity, this is a powerful and demanding wine. All sorts of nuts and dried floral components along with some dried apricot and pineapple elements. Really interesting.

2015 Malvasia (sample)
Awesome to taste a young Malvasia. Smells of so many apples and green flowers. Juicy fruit on the palate, so much tropical and floral elements. A vibrant, juicy wine with lots of sweet complexities. I can see why this is made into a dessert wine. 

Below are my notes on the finished wines I tasted with Leandro.

2004 Barbeito Madeira Tinta Negra Single Harvest Colheita - Portugal, Madeira
Light gold color. Smells of orange peel, sea spray and honey. Rushing acidity on the palate, this tangy wine shows lots of richness as well. Interesting flavor profile of yellow and green apples, oranges, bright lemon, along with notes of pecans and sea salt. A vibrant, punchy style but it’s also quite elegant. (92 points)

2001 Barbeito Madeira Malvasia Single Cask - Portugal, Madeira
Lovely gold color. Smells of tropical fruits, honey and sweet flowers. Rich and sweet but more tropical (less of the brown sugar and caramel). I get apricot jam, honey, date and lingering salted almond flavors. (88 points)

1998 Barbeito Madeira Ribeiro Real Tinta Negra Colheita - Portugal, Madeira
Orange colored. Smells of honey, orange marmalade and almonds. Bright acid on a richly-textured wine. Honey, almond, zesty orange, a distinctive note of red apple peel. So polished and fresh with a long finish. Complex and very enjoyable. (91 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Mr. Madison's Malmsey - Portugal, Madeira
Sweet and floral on the nose with brown sugar and orange marmalade. Full, juicy and sweet but stays restrained and vibrant. Oranges, quince paste, honeys and almond amount to a moderately complex wine. (87 points)

Clearly targeted to the American market, the Historic Series is a  savvy
homage to the historic connection between Madeira and America

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Thomas Jefferson Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of orange peels, clovers and a crazily complex blend of nuts. High on the acid, this is a kicking wine, but it’s also really rich and nutty. The complexity of the mixed nut flavors is really impressive. Awesome stuff. A blend of different varieties in a medium-dry style. (91 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Charleston Sercial Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira 
Smells of dried nuts, honey and sea salt. Fresh, clean, nutty, well done with a spicy tangerine kick. (89 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Baltimore Rainwater - Portugal, Madeira
Fresh, lively aromas with spiced tea and flowers. Full but a fresher approach (18% alcohol). Smooth and easy to drink, but this is also surprisingly complex for this style. (88 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Savannah Verdelho Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Orange and golden brown colored. Smooth honey and apricot jam aromas. Full and smooth on the palate, a lovely rich style but fresh acid keeps it together. Apricot, quince paste, honey, mixed nuts, this is seriously good stuff. (90 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series Boston Bual Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Rich aromatics of sweet brown sugar and pumpkin pie. Full, rich, yet lively and complex. This is one of the zestiest Bual’s I’ve tasted. Flavors of clove, brown sugar, figs and dates mix with bright citrus peel and salty notes. My favorite non-vintage Bual of the trip. (92 points)

1992 Barbeito Madeira Sercial Frasqueira - Portugal, Madeira 

Salty aromas with dried orange and lemon pith. Tart and salty on the palate but smooth as well. Full of rocky, mineral notes along with dried nuts and caramel. Dry, tart, complex, very long finish. (93 points)

1992 Barbeito Madeira Boal Frasqueira - Portugal, Madeira
Whoa, holy volatile acidity! Smells of some crazy varnished wood, white tea, and orange marmalade. Spicy and tangy, this wine holds the VA well. Very fresh, almost tastes dry for a Bual. I get nutty and coffee notes followed by polished wood, baked pear, cinnamon spice. The finish is long and complex. Amazing how Madeira can turn make volatile acidity seem so damn attractive. (92 points)

N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series New York Malmsey Special Reserve - Portugal, Madeira
Smells of polished wood and tart orange, some baked pear and sweet squash with cinnamon. Full of brown sugar and sweetness on the palate but this is still very balanced and maintains a salty tang on the finish. (90 points)

Note: The Ribeiro Reals are blended with 15% Tinta Negra from the 19th Century.

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Sercial Ribeiro Real 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Light orange color. Smells like sea spray, cut floral stems and raw almonds. Tart, crunchy and crusty on the palate, yet so complex. Tingling mineral notes mix with sliced orange, sweet tea, oyster shell and sea salt. A gorgeous Sercial. (94 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Verdelho Ribeiro Real 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
So floral and spicy on the nose, with clove, potpourri and sea spray. Sweet floral palate with rocking acidity, so pure and elegant but gorgeous richness. This is such a balanced wine with a pure beam of oceanic goodness that crashes over the yellow plum and mixed nut flavors. (94 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Boal Ribeiro Real 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Smells like wood varnish and tart oranges. Rich and full but stays quite bright, too. I get yellow plums, baked apples and sweet floral tea. This doesn’t strike my palate as much as the Sercial and Verdelho Ribeiro Reals, but it’s still an impressive effort. (90 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Malvasia Ribeiro Real 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Interesting golden color for a Malvasia (this golden color is a theme with Barbeito, it seems). I get cigar smoke, baked apple and wood varnish on the nose. Tastes like sweet candied tropical fruits but it’s refreshing. I also get cognac-like elements and some polished wood. Lovely freshness for a Malvasia. (91 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Malvazia 20 Years Old - Portugal, Madeira
Sweet aromas but pleasantly bitter as well with complex spice and orange rind. Stays fresh despite the richness. Dried apricot, candied orange, pine sap, layered spice and anise cookie flavors. Complex and layered with lots of intrigue. Whoa. (94 points)

N.V. Barbeito Madeira Malvazia "Mãe Manuela" - Portugal, Madeira
What an absolutely gorgeous wine. Props to Ricardo Freitas for putting this wine together to honor his mother – it’s an amazing tribute. Smells of sweet clove, complex almond and pecan, baked squash, dried apricot, polished wood and anise. On the palate this is waxy and sweet but the balance is pristine. The complexity of flavors nears the absurd: nuts, dried fruits, minerals, sea salt, rooibos tea. Smooth, sweet, tangy, precise. This is phenomenal stuff. Includes wine dating back to 1880. (97 points)

So, yeah, it was a good tasting.