South African Wines are Gaining Ground by Offering Quality & Value

If you’ve spent any time talking with me about wine and travel, you have probably heard me rant about my love for South Africa. It’s an ethereal place. The coastline of the Cape Peninsula is obscenely gorgeous, the surfing is top-notch, and the wildlife in the country’s interior grassland preserves is stunning. My trip to South Africa was the most exciting of my life.

Then there are the wines, a plethora of options that are delicious, intriguing and often inexpensive. From adventurous but value-driven white wines to $20 Pinot Noirs that slay to exceptional, age-worthy Bordeaux blends — there is no shortage of exciting regions, producers and varieties to explore.

Muratie Estate in Stellenbosch is one of many impressive wineries with even more impressive views. Photo: IJB

Despite hundreds of years’ worth of winemaking history, South African vintners have endured a steep learning curve in the post-Apartheid era. As trade restrictions lifted, exports of inexpensive bulk wine poured out into the rest of the world. For most of the 90s and well into the 2000s, South African wines developed a reputation as being decent and cheap. For the average American consumer, many of the bottles they saw were South African riffs on the critter label wines that Americans had grown accustomed to chugging.

But this is 2016, folks. South Africa is firmly established as a source of some of the world’s most dynamic wines. In the past 10 years, I’ve seen a dramatic increase in quality as winemakers seek out old vines, experiment with interesting blends, and aim to translate their unique terroir into the glass. The viticulture and oenology program at the Stellenbosch University has produced an impressive group of alumni. And South African winemaking has transitioned from catch-up mode to the cutting edge of research and modernity.

And consumers are responding. Nielsen data recently found Americans bought 14% more South African wine in the last year. And they’re also willing to pony up for the higher-end wines — the Nielsen data shows the market value of South African wine sales increased 25% during the same timeframe.

Recently, I met with Jim Clarke, the U.S. marketing manager for Wines of South Africa (WOSA), the national trade group that promotes South African wine to the world. The guy has my dream job, traveling back and forth between South Africa and American markets, conducting tastings, educational seminars and otherwise promoting the best that South African wine has to offer. I caught up with him during a Society of Wine Educators conference in Washington, DC, to chat about South African vino. Like me, he’s excited to see more high-quality South African wines making it across the Atlantic to shelves here in the States.

If you’re new to South African wines, or planning to explore further, I’ve outlined four wine categories that I think deserve attention.

Chenin gets its due

Chenin Blanc has be the historical backbone of the South African wine industry. Most of these wines (which were historically referred to as “Steen”) were sourced from grapes grown in high-volume vineyards and produced as bulk wines.

But because of the grape’s important place in the history of South African wine culture, there are tons of old vines scattered throughout the Western and Southern Cape regions. There is more old-vine Chenin Blanc than any other variety in South Africa, some 2,500 acres of Chenin older than 35 years in the Western Cape. And this vine is resistant to leaf roll virus, which has affected many South African vineyards and caused many vineyard owners to pull out and replant.

From a new consumer’s standpoint, it’s difficult to peg “South African Chenin Blanc” as a cohesive category. Chenin in South Africa is produced in seemingly every style imaginable — we have Champagne-method Brut, zesty and mineral-dominated wines, creamier oak-aged styles, and unctuous dessert wines. So, if Joe & Joanne McWineConsumer pick up a random bottle of South African Chenin Blanc off a retailer’s shelf, what will they get? It’s hard to know. Although some producers stick to certain styles, and I’m seeing more and more labels that provide actual information about the wine. (From “Unoaked” to “Dry” on the front label or descriptions of style and production on the back label.) But I think the key to grasping South African Chenin’s potential is to recognize that diversity, and to celebrate it.

Chenin from its motherland (France’s Loire Valley) has a fiercely dedicated following for this same reason. Loire Chenin fans are enamored with its range of styles, because each style, appellation and terroir offers a unique interpretation of this expressive grape. The same thing is happening in South Africa.

With so much old-vine Chenin available, and many years of time spent focusing on making world class wines from these vineyards, I think South African winemakers have good reason to feel positive about the future of their Chenin Blancs. Now, if we can just get more of these high-quality Chenins to markets around the U.S., I think Americans are ready to dive in.

Sauvignon Blanc deserves love, too

During my trip to South Africa, I tasted a ton of wine. One of the biggest surprises was the amount of highly delicious (and inexpensive) Sauvignon Blanc. This grape doesn’t get the amount of wine nerd credit as Chenin Blanc, but there are lots of South African producers who are taking Sauv Blanc seriously and making compelling wines.

Southern Right (part of the Hamilton Russell family of wines) makes a killer Sauv Blanc from Walker Bay (near the Southern Coast area of Hermanus) that retails in the U.S. for less than $15. Under their Ashbourne label, they release a Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay blend that is sometimes aged underneath the waves of the nearby ocean. This Sandstone blend is fabulous, and as a recent tasting proved, it can age very well. Further west, in the Western Cape region of Constantia, I found a bunch of tangy, mineral-driven, zesty Sauvignon Blancs. This cooler region (located on the Cape’s thumb-like peninsula between the Atlantic Ocean and False Bay) boasts more Sauv Blanc than any other grape variety.

Groot Constantia is South Africa's oldest wine estate (dating back to the 1600s), and they produce a fine Constantia Sauv Blanc. Photo: IJB

There is a ton of variety in terms of style and region, of course, but overall, I find South African Sauv Blancs show a nice mix of tropical and citrus fruits on a frame of fresh acidity. They’re a bit brighter than a lot of wines from California, a bit more tropical than those from the Loire Valley, and they usually stay away from those pungent cut grass and bell pepper aromas and flavors frequently found in some wines from New Zealand. And the bang-for-you-buck equation generally favors the South African Sauv Blanc consumer.


African Bubbles Causing a Splash

Methode Cap Classique is South Africa’s designated sparkling wine. It’s made via the traditional Champagne method, and usually from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in cooler sub-regions, although Chenin bubbles can be quite delicious. The price to quality ratio of these wines blows a lot of California bubbles out of the water, especially in the usually dicey sub-$20 category.

These wines have seen serious growth in the U.S. market recently: imports are up more than 50% in from last year, according to South Africa Wine Industry Information & Systems. Nielsen data indicates that certain method cap classique labels have seen a five-fold increase in sales in the course of the last twelve months.

If you’re skeptical, check out Graham Beck’s bubbles, which are available in markets all over the United States. This producer crafts a wide range of MCC wines, but the entry-level Brut and Rose are absurdly good for the price. As you step up the quality ladder, the prices increase, but even the high-end South African bubblies outperform many similar wines from other New World regions.

Red blends – a South African specialty

The consumer focus on red blends has been fueled in large part by the overabundance of mass-produced, jammy, off-dry wines from California (think Apothic, Cupcake, etc.) But consumers also realize that the serious blended reds offer awesome juice.

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and other Rhone varieties grow wonderfully in Western Cape spots like Swartland. These grapes are traditionally blended together to make juicy, earthy, peppery wines that pair wonderfully with grilled foods. In Stellenbosch and other regions focused on Bordeaux varieties, some of the best wines I’ve tasted are blends of Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, etc. South Africa’s traditional stalwart red grape, Pinotage, also features in many a tasty blend, adding a peppery, earthy kick.

Higher elevation vineyards in the sub-regions of Stellenbosch offer ideal growing conditions for Bordeaux red varieties. (Credit: WOSA)

Diverse soils and vineyard sites mean a lot of different grapes can find a niche within a relatively close area. And sometimes the best way to translate a sense of place is to blend multiple grapes from specific plots to create complex, age-worthy reds. At the highest end, these Bordeaux blends can compete with some of the best from other New World regions.

Some Tasting Notes

Below are some tasting notes on some South African wines I’ve tasted recently. Each wine is noted as either a trade sample or a bottle from my personal collection.

N.V. Graham Beck Methode Cap Classique Brut - South Africa, Western Cape
$12 (personal collection)
Solid sparkler for $12, which isn't easy to pull off. Light gold color. Smells of lemon curd, lime, salty-toasted baguette. Crisp and bright on the nose with apples, lemons and lots of chalk. Light, not too complex but very crisp and quite tasty. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. (86 points)

2015 Fat Barrel Sauvignon Blanc - South Africa, Stellenbosch
$12 (Sample)
Medium straw color. An aromatic burst of white peach, guava, lime and green melon, backed up by white pepper, hay and honeysuckle. A bright and tart wine but it has a vibrant mouthfeel with juicy white peach, papaya, lime and melon flavors — the fruit is pure and lively. I get notes of honeysuckle, white pepper, hay and green tea as well. Finishes quite long and crisp. (87 points)
 
2013 Reyneke Sauvignon Blanc - South Africa, Stellenbosch
$28 (sample) 
Pretty gold color. Vibrant, intense aromas with lots of depth: peach, papaya, apricot, the fruit is layered with honeyed tea, mint and ocean spray. Plump and fleshy texture but precise acidity. Creamy peach and apricot fruit blends well with white tea, almond, cut floral stems, perfume, lingering minerals. A somewhat rare New World Sauv Blanc that will improve with time in the cellar. Long, lingering, refreshing but complex. Worth the money for sure. A biodynamic wine from the dynamic Johan Reyneke. (90 points)

2008 Ashbourne Sandstone - South Africa, Walker Bay
$20 (Personal collection)
About two years since I brought this bottle back from a winery visit in South Africa, and I think it’s gotten even metter. Nose shows green onion, bell pepper, sea salt, crunched sea shells, notes of anise and clove, too, all on top of white cherries, peaches and limes. Creamy texture but bracing acidity. Laser-beam style stuff. Tart green apples, limes, tangy peach. Complex elements of cucumber water, white pepper, sea salt, minerals, chalk and talcum powder. Wow. This is beautiful stuff – aging so nicely. Not tired by any means, but I would be hesitant to cellar this for more than two more years. Such a cool wine. Sauv Blanc with 12% Chardonnay. (92 points)

2014 Longridge Chenin Blanc - South Africa, Stellenbosch
$18 (Sample)
Aromas: salty, white tea, chalk, nettle and honeysuckle on top of lemon and quince. On the palate: bright, clean and zesty but not lean, as this has a pleasant sense of creaminess to balance out the vibrant acidity. Crisp green apples and lemon curd flavors doused in chalk, minerals, honey, white tea and candle wax notes. Deeply mineral-driven. Pretty and elegant but sports solid depth. Great stuff for the price, and I’d love to see how this ages over the next three or four years. Great bargain. (90 points)

2015 Bellingham Chenin Blanc The Old Orchards - South Africa, Paarl
$? (Sample)
Light gold color. Very pretty aromatic display: orange marmalade, honey, white tea, hints of oyster shell and crushed rocks. Medium-plus-bodied, a velvety and creamy texture but the acidity keeps the lips smacking and the feel of the wine is still refreshing. Orange marmalade, juicy peach, apricot nectar, cinnamon-spiced apple, and that’s all topped with complex notes of almond, honeycomb and sea shells. A popping, punchy but complex Chenin that could develop for at least a few years. (89 points)

2014 Badenhorst Family Wines Chenin Blanc Secateurs - South Africa, Swartland
$16 (Personal collection)
Light gold color. Pretty aromas of white tea, nettle, chalk and sea salt on top of lemon pie and apples. Fresh acid, waxy texture, lots of chalk dust, minerals and mountain stream flavors. Pure and zesty but shows plenty of lemon, apricot and papaya fruit. Quite complex for the price, and a great introduction to the quality of South African Chenin Blanc you can find for less than $20. This fruit comes from old Chenin Blanc vines (most planted in the 1960s and farmed without irrigation). The grapes come from the family farm and some neighboring fruit planted in granite soils on the north side of Paardeberg mountain in Swartland. (89 points)

2014 Delaire Graff Botmaskop - South Africa, Stellenbosch
$28 (Sample)
Dark violet color. Smells smoky and full of charcoal, some grilled herbs and menthol, all of it tossed with rich currant, blackberry and roasted fig. Full-bodied with some good grip to the tannins but tart acidity refines this bold red. Black cherries, tart currants, the juicy fruit is laced with menthol, mint, grilled herbs, charcoal and subtle vanilla. Juicy and tangy but maintains some mystique and near-term cellar potential. Very good stuff for the price. Cabernet Sauvignon with 21% Merlot, 10% Malbec and 6% Cabernet Franc aged 18 months in 30% new French oak. (89 points)

2013 Warwick Estate Three Cape Ladies - South Africa, Western Cape
$30(Sample) 
Juicy, deep ruby color. Smells of red and black cherries, juicy plums, and lots of smoke, charcoal, bacon fat and coffee. Fleshy and juicy on the palate but sports some solid tannins and medium acidity. Tart black currants meet pulpy cherries and red plums. I like the mix of smoke, tar, black olive, cola and charred meat. This blend works, as it shows lots of up-front Pinotage elements but I think the Shiraz and Cabernet flesh it out and keep the funky notes from dominating. Delicious now but will improve for two to four years easily. Aged 24 months in 22% new French oak. (88 points)

Ernest Vineyards: Artful Sonoma Pinot & Chardonnay

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist. 

I’m a huge fan of Sonoma Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and now I have another exciting producer to follow. 

Ernest Vineyards focuses on single vineyard-designated Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. The brand was established in 2012 by husband-wife team Todd Gottula and Erin Brooks, who work with Sonoma growers and their winemaking team to produce wines from sites throughout the Green River, the larger Russian River AVA and the West Sonoma Coast. The wines are produced at a custom crush facility called Punchdown Cellars, but Erin and Todd have plans to launch their own facility, called Grand Cru, in the summer of 2017.

I loved both of the Chardonnays, but the Pinot Noirs are even better. Picked at 22 brix, the wines sport a low 12.5% alcohol. But even though these are lighter-bodied wines, they are by no means lacking in structure or flavor. For those Pinot-lovers who tend toward the zesty, red-fruited, earthy style, Ernest wines are worth checking out. They do use a good amount of new French oak (about 30-40%), but that seems to be the perfect amount for my palate — accentuating and harmonizing the wine but not stealing the show.

“Todd and Erin pride themselves on making Burgundian-style wines with bright acid, low alcohol, and balanced flavor,” their website proclaims. A bold statement, but the wines back it up. I thought all four of these wines were delicious, crisp, complex and flawlessly executed. Ernest Vineyards is one to watch if you appreciate that “new California wine” kind of style.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.



2014 Ernest Vineyards Chardonnay The Bombardier - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $42
Pale yellow color. Aromas: steely, white flowers, nettle, lemon pith, with richer elements of honeycomb, apricot and orange marmalade. On the palate: pleasant but balanced creaminess, vibrant acidity, a medium-bodied frame (13.5% alcohol). Apricot, orange, kiwi, sliced green apples, all of it topped with chalk, floral perfume, mixed nuts and hay. Complex and flavorful but it stays zesty and driven by minerals. Lots to unpack with this wine. 10 months in 40% new French oak. From the Green Valley Ranch Vineyard. (90 points)

2014 Ernest Vineyards Chardonnay The Farmer - California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley
SRP: $45
Pale yellow color. Bright and vibrant aromas with flowers, crushed chalk, some honey, white tea, on top of apricots and orange peels. Waxy but elegant texture on the palate with bright, crisp acidity (13% alcohol). Orange, apricot, yellow apples and kiwi fruit, very pretty, rich flavors but this is so bright, vibrant, elegant. Woven in well are the slight toast and nutshell elements from the oak, but they accentuate rather than dominate the natural flavors. 10 months in 35% new French oak. From Black Emerald Vineyard and some fruit from Green Valley Ranch. (91 points)





2014 Ernest Vineyards Pinot Noir The Artist - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $55
Light ruby color. Aromas of bright cherries and wild raspberries, this is a highly floral wine, like red and white roses, add in some spiced tea, white pepper and rhubarb, and there is a whole lot to sniff in this beauty. Medium-dusty tannins on the palate, medium-bodied, absolutely lip-smacking acidity, this has laser-like focus but shows enough grip to keep things serious. Bright red fruit is doused in roses, black tea, clove. Hints of cherry wood and light roast coffee. Long and seamless. Gorgeous now but I’d love to revisit this in two or three years. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. From the Bush Vineyard. Wow. (92 points)

2014 Ernest Vineyards Pinot Noir The Settler - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $58
Light ruby color. Such pretty aromatics: fresh strawberries, red currants, wild raspberries, topped in rhubarb, roses, some deeper violet and cinnamon-spice notes. This is tart and zippy on the palate, a medium-bodied wine with dusty but structured tannins. A vibrant and crisp appeal to this wine, with red cherries, raspberries, the fruit is tart and crunchy yet shows some velvetiness. Mineral and earth undertones, hints of coffee and cedar but this is a minimalist style Pinot, and it sports a long, crisp finish. So much to love about this beautiful wine. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak, from the Cleary Ranch Vineyard in the West Sonoma Coast. (93 points)

Iconic Oregon Wine: Cameron's Clos Electrique

John Paul is the man. 

The founder of Cameron Winery, in the Dundee Hills of Oregon, is one of my American winemaker heroes. I've never met him, but I love pretty much every one of his wines, and I shout "Amen!" to pretty much everything about his wine philosophy. I'm not prone to fanboyism, but this man and his wines have some awesome things to say. 

The wines, name and even the gate of Clos Electrique pay homage to Burgundy.
Credit: Cameron Wines

His "rants" (blog posts) could compose an Advanced Topics for Wine Nerds elective, as they range from topics such as clonal selection, brix (a measure of ripeness in grapes), pruning and green harvest, etc. 

Anyone fascinated by winemaking and terroir should check out John Paul's posts on Cameron's website. His interviews with Ask a Winemaker on YouTube are also excellent.

Cameron's grapevines are farmed organically and without the use of irrigation (dry-farming). The goal is to produce the purest expression of place possible. And the finished wines are lightning bolts of terroir, demonstrating the uniqueness of the vineyard and the nuances of each vintage. John Paul frequently talks about his love and respect for Burgundy, and his wines are some of the most "Burgundian" I can think of in the United States. John Paul uses indigenous yeast fermentation and produces wines that could be referred to (under one of many vague definitions) as "natural wine." But these aren't sloppy, cloudy, oxidized, busted-ass wines. This is pristine juice.

Cameron produces a range of Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from a few different sites, but the cream of the crop for my palate is the wines from the estate Clos Electrique vineyard.

The Clos Electrique vineyard gets my vote for one of the most thrilling sites in America for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This is no sprawling estate, though — the vineyard is home to only 3 acres of Pinot Noir, 2 acres of Chardonnay, 1 acre of Nebbiolo and a half-acre of Italian white varieties. The vineyard (which had been a hazelnut orchard) is planted to multiple clones (at least 15 different clones of Pinot Noir alone). John Paul says this increases complexity and gives the vineyard staying power against vintage variation and pests. He generally uses 1- to 3-year-old French oak to age the wines.

I recently met up with some close friends who have spent many years collecting Cameron wines and visiting John Paul at his estate. They uncorked a whole lot of Camerons for an incredible tasting. We tasted several vintages of the white and red Clos Electrique, and my palate was in heaven. Great wines and great people make for great life experiences, and this was most certainly the case during this tasting. At times like this, I realize how lucky I am to be alive.

I've posted my tasting notes below. The wines were obviously influenced by the great atmosphere, and the fact that I tasted them sighted, but I will stand by any of these wines. Over many years, I've found Cameron's Clos Electrique wines to be among my favorite wines produced in the U.S. 

Blanc (Chardonnay)

2008 Cameron Blanc Clos Electrique

Showing complexity from age but still firing like a young pup. Smells of peaches, limes, white flowers, honey, chalk, very complex. Precise acidity frames the wine but the creaminess fills the mouth. Flavors of yellow and green apple mix with seriously complex elements of chalk, crushed shells, almond, honeycomb. Pervasive minerality. Long finish. Two years since I last tasted this, and it's still gorgeous stuff but drinking very well right now. (95 points) 

2010 Cameron Blanc Clos Electrique
Two years since I last tasted this wine and it's even better than I remember it. Immensely bright aromas of lemon, peach, lime, almond, sea salt, floral perfume. Bracing acidity on the palate combines with a rich texture to support the lemon curd, honeydew, apple and peach fruit. Laced with minerals, almond and floral goodness. Crisp, tingly, long finish An absolute stunner of a wine that has more evolution ahead of it. (96 points)  

  

2011 Cameron Blanc Clos Electrique

My first time tasting this vintage and it is awesome, but perhaps just a bit less vibrant than the 2010 and a bit less intense than the 2012. Lighter and refreshing on the nose with lemon curd, peach nectar, flowers and honey. Clean and bright on the palate with yellow apple, lemon, saline, minerals and slight honey. Lingers long and leaves me salivating. (93 points)

2012 Cameron Blanc Clos Electrique

Young, a bit compact, but so full of flavor and intrigue. Juicier aromas than the 2011, I get more plush tropical fruits with the classic lemon curd note, along with honeycomb, crushed chalk and white flowers. Bright and crunchy acidity keeps the lips smacking while the creaminess rolls across the palate. Lemon curd and yellow apples are doused in dried flowers, white tea, nougat and sea salt. Long and mineral-laden on the finish. Another stunning showing of this vintage, which has a long time in the cellar ahead of it. (94 points) 

2013 Cameron Blanc Clos Electrique

A young and exciting wine, but one determined for the long haul. Smells deep and rich with honeyed apples, peach nectar and lemon curd with notes of sea breeze and chalk dust. Packed with concentration on the palate but the acidity is pristine. Gorgeous lemons, peaches and apples play well off notes of sea rocks, crushed chalk, honeyed white tea and minerals galore. Gorgeous, thought-provoking stuff. I'm going to sleep on mine for two to four years, though, as I could see this getting better and better. (94+ points)

2012 Cameron Chardonnay Clos Electrique Wadsworth
First time tasting this wine and I'm thrilled — it offers an interesting comparison to the traditional Clos Electrique Blanc of the same vintage. I get more honey and richness on the nose but there's still lots of lemon/lime and plenty of chalk and sea salt. Aromatically evolving, showing lots of elegance. Plump on the palate but tangy acidity. Bright limes and lemons with crunchy apples, and lots of intense floral and mineral notes. Long, elegant, delicious but intriguing. I'd love to retaste this beauty in three or four years. This wine comes from a single barrel of the Clos Electrique wine. (95 points)

Rouge (Pinot Noir)

2002 Cameron Rouge Clos Electrique

Smells of olive brine, pepper and soy on top of sour cherries and plums. Silky tannins, medium-plus acidity, this is a smooth wine that glides cleanly across the palate. Fruit is a bit faded, but still some cherry/red plum, most of the focus now is on the pepper, smoke, olive and funky earth elements. My first time tasting this vintage, so I'm not sure how strong it was in its youth, but this seems a bit tired. Still digging it though, just falls short of the other wines in the tasting. (90 points)

2004 Cameron Rouge Clos Electrique

Nice dose of pepper and funky herbs on the nose but also plenty of plump red fruit. Silky tannins, bright acidity, smooth mouthfeel. Fruit still going strong (plums, sour cherries) and I get quite complex notes of roses, loamy earth, grilled herbs, black tea, olives. Floral and mineral notes linger on the finish. Drinking so smoothly right now. (93 points)

2008 Cameron Rouge Clos Electrique

I get expressive bacon, earth and soy on the nose, all on top of juicy red plums and cherries. More tannic grip, as expected, but still shows a silky presence and the wine is balanced with tangy acidity. Plums and tart cherries mix well with notes of bacon, black tea earth and vibrant minerals. Long, long finish. Four years since I last tasted and this wine is still killing it. I love the way this is drinking right now but I could see holding it for a few more years, easily. (94 points)

2010 Cameron Rouge Clos Electrique

Gorgeous aromas, a bit deeper but the fruit is pure and tart (red cherry, pomegranate, tart plums), and I get notes of mossy rocks, loamy soil, tobacco and herbs. Bright acidity purifies this wine, but there are some fine but firm tannins that provide plenty of structure, and the effect is a bold but silky presence on the palate. Crisp, cool red cherries, pomegranate, some tart raspberry, the fruit is so pretty but it's topped with olives, tobacco, grilled herbs and earth. Long and vibrant on the finish. A bright and vibrant Clos Electrique, even more so than usual. Lots of life ahead here. (95 points)

2013 Cameron Rouge Clos Electrique
A very pretty young Clos Electrique! Lots of juicy cherries and tart pomegranate with notes of smoke, herbs and olive. For a young wine with solid tannic structure this is showing quite nicely, and the acidity keeps my lips smacking. Juicy plums and cherries are topped with a classic combo of earth, tobacco and smoke, an underlying note of beef jerky will likely come out more with time. Glad I have some in the cellar to check up on in a few years. (94 points)

Nebbiolo

John Paul first released Nebbiolo in 2010, and it's really cool stuff. I've only tasted the 2007 before, which I loved, and the 2009 is an exciting iteration of this grape.

2009 Cameron Nebbiolo

Smells of dark plums, currant compote and some mushrooms. Structured but dusty tannins, prickly acidity, the balance is on point. Juicier fruit on the palate with some cherry to accent the dark plums. Loving the olive tapenade, brine, smoke and earth elements. Will surely improve in the cellar, but a beauty. (93 points)

Wine Reviews: California White Wines

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, blends, this report features a bunch of California white wines from all over the state. The Dragonette Cellars Duvarita Vineyard 2014 was shockingly good, while Sonoma Chardonnay purveyor La Pitchoune continues to impress me with their 2013s. Toss in some newly-released Sauvignon Blancs and a few blends, and you've got a nice selection of late summer sippers.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted single blind.

2014 Dragonette Cellars Chardonnay Duvarita Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

SRP: $60

Medium gold color. Aromas of lemon curd, oranges, caramel apple, along with a kick of minerals, chalk and shells — this is quite exciting to sniff. Medium-full-bodied, I love the mouthfeel: plump and creamy yet balanced by vibrant acidity. Lemon meringue meets baked apple and peach tart. I love the complexity of honey, bread crumbs, graham cracker, a lively mineral kick. Rich but elegant and harmonious, this scores high in the deliciousness ranking. This wine comes out slugging, but it’s precision is so impressive. Wow, folks. Aged 12 months in 12% new French oak. From a clearly fascinating site in sandy soils west of the Sta. Rita Hills appellation. (92 points)

2014 Frank Family Vineyards Chardonnay - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $35

Light gold color. A juicy, more tropical appeal on the nose, like papaya and pineapple mixed in with bruised apple and honeybutter. Lovely creamy texture on the palate, some medium acidity keeps it moving forward, but this is a velvety almost oily mouthfeel. Bruised apple, apricot jam, orange marmalade, those flavors are topped in almond, candle wax, clover honey and cinnamon sticks. Despite these rich flavors, the wine maintains vivacity and brightness, especially on the finish, where a kick of acidity and minerals leaves the palate wanting more. (89 points)

2014 Shafer Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch - California, Napa, Carneros

SRP: $52

Medium gold color. Gorgeous nose of yellow flowers, apple slices, orange peel, dried apricot, honey and some mountain stream rocks. Chunky texture on the palate, almost chewy (14.9% alcohol) but the acidity helps balance it out. Straight-up delicious, too: yellow apple, peaches, oranges and pineapples, topped in chopped nuts, honeycomb and almond skin. A nice kick of rocks and minerals bounces off the oak-influenced elements. Almost dense at this point but it opens up a lot, and will surely continue to do so in the cellar. No maloactic fermentation, this is aged 14 months in 3/4 new French oak. The grapes come from a single vineyard in Carneros. (91 points)

2015 Matanzas Creek Winery Chardonnay Sonoma County - California, Sonoma County

SRP: $26

Medium gold color. Smells of juicy pears, yellow apple and apricot jam with some nutty and butterscotch elements as well. Plump texture on the palate, this is a richly creamy wine but some slight acidity keeps it from feeling too heavy. Juicy apricot and bruised apple fruit mixes with nougat, peanut shell and butterscotch elements. Not too toasty or rich, but plenty of those big, delicious Chardonnay elements in this wine. Fermented in about 40% new French oak with full maloactic fermentation. (86 points)

2014 J Vineyards & Winery Chardonnay Estate - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $28

Light gold color. Bright floral notes mix with all colors of apples, and some aromas of hazelnut and almond. Juicy and round on the palate but cool acidity keeps it lively. Plump pears, baked apples and apricots mix with honeyed tea, cinnamon spice and caramel popcorn. Rich in texture and flavor but this is refreshing as well as delicious. Barrel-fermented and aged nine months in 25% new French oak. (87 points)

2014 Frei Brothers Chardonnay Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $20

Gold color. Smells of bruised apples, toasted almond, honey — you get the idea of the style. Plump and creamy on the palate, some light acidity helps. This wine is full of apricot, yellow apples, topped with nougat, cinnamon, hazelnut and butterscotch. A typical style, but it tastes good. (85 points)

2013 La Pitchoune Chardonnay Pratt Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $68

Light gold color. Smells like golden apples, juicy pears, mixed with honeysuckle, cinnamon, almond and crushed chalk. Full and creamy, a rich and lush feel, but the acidity keeps it firing. Plump yellow fruit (plum, appple, pear) and loaded with non-fruit complexity: honey, almond, nutmeg and clove. But these flavors are matched with chalk, wildflowers and sea spray. A delicious big boy of a Chardonnay, but it's paradoxically surgical. I’d love to re-taste in a few years. Aged 16 months in 1/3 new French oak. (91 points)

2013 La Pitchoune Chardonnay Chenoweth Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

SRP: $88

Pretty golden color. I love the salty, nettle and white floral components to the nose, which liven up the rich apple and yellow plum fruit. Full-bodied, but this wine hides its weight well via the crisp acidity. Juicy yellow apple and plum, apricot and orange, mix in some honeycomb, croissant, salted butter. There’s a vibrant sense of sea shell and minerality in this wine, and the finish is long, creamy but crisp. Beautiful stuff — this is what my palate craves in Sonoma Chardonnay. I’d love to retaste in two or three years. Aged 16 months in 50% new French oak. (92 points)

2014 Gundlach Bundschu Chardonnay Estate Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $27

Light gold color. Very floral and bright on the nose with peaches and lychee, backed up by notes of cucumber and rosewater. Creamy texture, vibrant acidity, the fruit is very tropical (guava, pineapple, passion fruit), backed up by sweet honey, brown sugar and nougat. Sweet floral perfume pervades the finish. No maloactic fermentation, this spends 10 months in 20% new French oak. (87 points)

2013 Agnitio Wines Chardonnay Sun Chase Vineyard - California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

SRP: $50

Light gold color. Smells of yellow apples and apricots covered in nougat, honey, lilies and clean laundry. Plump and creamy texture on the palate, acidity keeps it moderately fresh. Apricots and spiced apple sauce flavors mix with honey, chopped almonds and white tea. A rich style but it's not heavy, and I get this lively mineral presence in the wine that keeps it interesting. This wine sees 1/4 maloactic fermentation and time in 25% new French oak. (88 points)

2015 Matanzas Creek Winery Sauvignon Blanc - California, Sonoma County

SRP: $22

Medium yellow color. Rich aromatics of guava, pineapple and limes, topped with lemongrass and sliced jalapenos. Medium-bodied, creamy, slightly waxy texture on the palate with medium acidity. Chunky pineapple and mango fruit blends nicely with citrus zest, grapefruit, salted lime and an integrated mix of lemon grass, white pepper and chalk. Solid stuff for the price. Includes 7% Semillon. (87 points)

2014 Murrieta's Well The Whip - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley

SRP: $24

Pale lemon color. Smells insanely floral and soapy, like perfume, honeysuckle and laundry powder on top of oranges and lychee. Medium-bodied with a slightly waxy mouthfeel and some moderate acidity. The oranges, white peaches and pineapple fruit is juicy and topped with candle wax, floral perfume, laundry soap and sugar cane and orange blossom. Really interesting flavors, here, but if you dislike floral notes or avoid this wine. A kitchen sink blend of Semillon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Orange Muscat, Muscat Canelli and Viognier. (85 points)

2015 Tom Gore Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - California

SRP: $13

Medium straw color. Nose of grapefruit and lime topped with white and green peppers, some honeysuckle as well. Medium-bodied with medium but refreshing acidity. The grapefruit and tangerines are ripe but tangy and blended in with elements of pepper, lemongrass and honeysuckle. Not too complex but very pleasant and refreshing. (85 points)

2014 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley

SRP: $31

Medium straw color. Aromas of juicy white peach, green apple mixed with elements of almond and green beans, honeysuckle and crushed chalk. Medium-plus-bodied with a creamy texture but bright acidity keeps it crisp and clean. Honeysuckle, lemongrass, chalk and minerals accent the green apple, sliced peaches and honeydew melon. Juicy fruit is mixed with quite complex elements of almond, honey, white tea, chalk and minerals. Tasty but racy stuff — another solid vintage of this wine. About 80% of this comes from the Musque clone, which accentuates these fresh floral elements. Aged six months in old French oak, which rounds out the wine but doesn’t impart oaky flavors. Nicely done, per usual. (88 points)

2015 Chronic Cellars Eunice X Chronic Cellars - California, Central Coast

SRP: $15

Light yellow color. Honey, almonds and yellow flower aromas on top of apricot and yellow apple. On the palate, this shows a creamy, waxy texture but some solid acid keeps it quite balanced. Apricots, yellow plums, bruised apple, the fruit is backed up with some floral, white tea and honeycomb elements. Straight-up fun, but some nice balance and diversity of flavors. A blend of75% Chardonnay, 14% Viognier, 8% Roussanne and 3% Marsanne. (86 points)

Winery to Watch: Maryland's Old Westminster

In recent years, Virginia wine has been getting the recognition it deserves from more and more wine consumers and critics. But what about its neighbor to north, Maryland? After all, the climate and soils of the Virginia and Maryland Piedmont are quite similar, and wine producers in Maryland have been taking viticulture and winemaking seriously for decades. (The state's winemaking history goes back to the late 1600s.)

Checking out the Home Vineyard - Old Westminster Winery.

I lived in Maryland for a few years and tasked myself with touring and tasting as much as possible. I worked some harvests, pressed some grapes, volunteered at local wine events, worked tasting tables at the Maryland Wine Festival, and covered Maryland wine for a local newspaper. In the mid- and late-2000s, I found a lot of wines that were less than exciting. I'm talking about lots of (non-grape) fruit wines, off-dry, off-balance or thin wines. I did find some good juice from producers like Elk Run, Suguarloaf Mountain, Boordy, Cygnus and others. But, for wine exploring trips, I started heading to Virginia.

Maryland wine has changed. Shit is getting real.

Old Westminster Winery is taking the lead and making some of Maryland's most exciting wines. Along with producers like Serpent Ridge and Black Ankle, Old Westminster aims to prove Maryland wines are legit. For me, the evidence is clear. If you're skeptical (understandable), I invite you to seek out these wines with an open mind.

Old Westminster is a family affair, dating back to 2008, when Jay and Virginia Baker (no relation) decided the rocky soils of their Carroll County farm could be a vineyard. Eight years later, they produce a wide range of whites, reds and sparkling wines that will smash any negative preconceptions you have about Maryland vino.

Lisa, Drew & Ashli - Credit: Old Westminster Winery

The Baker children (all younger than me, damnit) have accomplished an impressive amount in a relatively brief period of time. Lisa crafts the wines, Drew manages the vineyard and Ashli heads up the tasting room and event planning. Together, they're pushing the limits of Maryland wine's potential, and turning quite a few heads (including mine) in the process.

After tasting through a few of their wines this summer, I had to visit. On a hot summer Sunday, I drove through the hills of Central Maryland with my 14-month-old girl to see what was going on.

Growing high quality wine grapes in such a warm and humid climate isn't easy, and as I drove to the winery, I was reminded of how difficult viticulture can be in this region. Do you remember those videos of massive flooding in Ellicott City, Maryland? That same storm had dumped 7 inches of rain overnight on the hills around Old Westminster. Gravel washouts, overflowing creeks, sopping earth —these ain't drought-stricken California vines.

Storms like this happen in the mid-Atlantic, and it's one of the crazy/awesome things about living here. So, given the frequent storms, it makes sense why the Bakers chose to plant Albariño, a white variety historically grown in the Rias Baixas region of Northern Spain. In Rias Baixas, they get plenty of sun, but it's also the rainiest region of Spain. The vineyards are heavily influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and the heavy storms it sends inland. Maryland, sound familiar?

This grape handles wet weather like a champ, and Albariño has the added benefit of making absolutely delicious wines. Old Westminster is making a strong argument with their Albariño: this grape should be planted widely in the Mid-Atlantic. Old Westminster makes a still and a sparkling Albariño (via the Petillant Naturel method) from their Home vineyard. Both are fascinating and tasty iterations of this grape.

So, I met up with Drew Baker at the winery. This place has an impressive tasting room with a lot of indoor and outdoor space. One could throw some seriously hopping wine parties at this winery, which opened last year. Drew poured a bunch of his wines for me to taste and we chatted about what his family is up to. And it struck me: each member of this family has put in a ton of effort in order to pull this off. And after some recent recognition from some food and wine publications, people (myself included) are starting to realize: we are seeing the future of Maryland wine unfold before us.

Old Westminster tends to pick grapes a bit early, which keeps the acidity higher. It also helps the grapes avoid mid-September storms, which can be intense, drench vineyards across the mid-Atlantic, and cause rot problems. The team at Old Westminster are churning out a bunch of different bottles, but the wines share a common thread: freshness, vibrant fruit, subtle complexities, judicious use of oak. The Home Vineyard is producing some stellar juice, but OW also sources grapes from some really interesting sites in Western Maryland. (I hear rumors of limestone soils and higher elevation vineyards. And... maybe... Riesling? More research required.)

I've introduced this project enough. You get it. I'm a fan. So I'll get to the wines. (Note: I sipped these wines and jotted these notes in a strange state of mind: at the winery, with Drew, while entertaining my 14-month-old, who was running around the tasting room shrieking with joy. Not exactly a formal tasting, but a really fun one.)

2014 Old Westminster Winery Chardonnay Home Vineyard - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
Really solid aromatics. Bright acidity keeps this wine very lively, but there's a relatively creamy mouthfeel with nuanced hints of vanilla to accent the green and yellow apple fruit. Crisp and bright but full of flavor.

2014 Old Westminster Winery Sauvignon Blanc - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
Salt and floral on the nose and palate with brisk acidity and a lean approach. Hints of white pepper and spice accent the sliced green apple and lime fruit. Bright, clean, nuanced, very impressive stuff for a grape that can be hard to pull off in Maryland.

2014 Old Westminster Winery Trio - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
This blend changes every year, but this vintage is Chardonnay, Sauv Blanc and Viognier. It's creamy and fleshy with ripe fruit but tart acidity. Hints of sweetness (from an off-dry fermentation of Chardonnay) but it's woven in really well. Nice little floral/spice/honey kick.

2015 Old Westminster Winery Viognier Cool Ridge Vineyard - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
This is a far more refreshing and vibrant style than most any mid-Atlantic Viognier I've tasted. Picked a bit earlier, the wine shows brisk acidity and, while fruity, is stays away from that extracted tropical style. Bright floral aromas. Crisp on the palate but the peach and melon fruit also has some honey notes. I love this style.

N.V. Old Westminster Winery Revelry First Edition - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
This kitchen sink blend is a fresh, vibrant and light red wine with lip-smacking acid and bright red fruits. Hints of pepper and earth as well. Delicious, fun stuff.

N.V. Old Westminster Winery Tapestry Second Edition - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
A multi-vintage blend that includes Syrah and some Bordeaux varieties. Juicy and vibrant with lots of fruit and a surprising dose of structure. Some earthy, pepper notes add complexity.

2013 Old Westminster Winery Channery Hill - Maryland, North Central Piedmont
Wow, this is really impressive juice. Dark, rich fruit on the nose with some leather and spice. Chewy texture, dusty tannins, medium acidity, lots of vibrant but dark berry fruit mixed with some smoke and earth. Downright delicious, too. 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.

2013 Old Westminster Winery Cabernet Franc Home Vineyard - Maryland, Central Piedmont, Linganore
A bit dense upon first being open, but this is obviously serious juice. Dark, saucy berries mix with cinnamon, clove and pepper. The mouthfeel is rich but velvety smooth. Serious structure for the cellar, but it's got the juicy fruit to make it immediately pleasurable. Lots of pepper, earth, charcoal and clove complexity. Wow, I'd love to sit down with some friends and taste this over the course of an evening, or pop a bottle in five years.