Sonoma Wines from Knights Bridge

This week, I’m visiting some wines from Sonoma’s Knights Valley.

Here, in the northeast corner of Sonoma, where Napa and Sonoma meet at the base of Mount Saint Helena, the climate is the warm and the soils rocky.

I recently received a group of wines from Knights Bridge from this area. This winery was formed in 2006, and the wines are made by Douglas Daneilak, who has been with Knights Bridge since the beginning. Their diverse mix of Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays offers an interesting way to analyze what this region has to offer. This was my first time tasting wines from this producer, and I found a fascinating mix of complex white wines (and a few reds) worth seeking out.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2018 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc KB Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Bright and stony on the nose with apricot, grapefruit, with lemongrass, basil and chalk dust. Plump texture on the palate with crisp acidity, balancing it well. Apricot, green apple, kiwi and orange peel, mixed with honeysuckle, daisies, along with notes of river rocks and minerals. Vibrant, lively, nuanced feel. (88 points)

2019 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc Fairview - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $70
Pale yellow color. Aromas show lemons, apricot and white peach, topped in nettle, honeysuckle, with some cream, whipped butter and sea salt. Creamy texture on the palate, fleshy but vibrant with a bright, crunchy feel, and delicious yellow apple, apricot and lemon fruit. Steel, floral, perfumed and mineral tones contrast nicely with these cinnamon, vanilla and white tea elements. Rich but complex and nuanced. (91 points)

2019 Knights Bridge Sauvignon Blanc Pont de Chevalier - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $40
Medium yellow. Rich and deep on the nose, with a tropical blast of papaya, green melons, topped in honey, whipped cream, white tea and vanilla candle. Full and creamy on the palate with rich texture, but medium acidity keeps it moderately fresh. Papaya, white peach and cantaloupe fruit mix with lemon crème, vanilla and cinnamon, subtle white pepper and white tea tones. A Chardonnay-esque Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s well done. (88 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay KB Estate Unoaked - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $30
Light yellow color. Aromas of green apples, lemon, topped in mint, yellow flowers, hay and honeysuckle. Crisp and bright on the palate with green apples, pineapple, lemon and guava. Accents of honeysuckle, daisies and dandelion add a nice touch. Ripe but fresh and steely. Nicely done, seafood-friendly stuff that stays fresh and inviting. (87 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay KB Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $40
Deep yellow color. Aromas of yellow apples, lemon bars, topped in salted almonds and pecans, with graham cracker and chalk tones. On the palate, this shows chunks of yellow plums, yellow apples, lemon curd and green melon. Creamy but nuanced, moderate acidity, has a subtly salty and chalky feel to the richer elements of nutshells and whipped honey. Showing some balance and nuance, though. (88 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay East Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $75
Light gold color. Creamy, warm, inviting aromas of yellow apples, apricot and orange marmalade, with peanut brittle, hay and white flowers. Full and creamy on the palate, but nice acidity keeps it from being heavy. Delicious fruit (creamy yellow apples, orange marmalade) mixes well with graham cracker, almond butter, creamy, waxy tones, topped in some white flowers and notes of sea salt. Lush, creamy, but also very pretty. (89 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay West Block - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $85
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon curd, baked apple, topped in cinnamon crumb and almond cake, with honey, graham cracker, also some sea salt and chalk. Plump and rich and creamy on the palate with moderate acidity. Flavors of lemon bars, yellow apples, mixed with whipped butter, mixed nuts, hay and shaved ginger. Deep, delicious, rich, yet shows nuances and complexity that keep it interesting. (90 points)

2018 Knights Bridge Chardonnay Pont de Chevalier - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $50
Rich yellow color. Bold aromas of graham cracker, almond cake, whipped honey and nougat, with baked apples, yellow plums and orange marmalade. Plush, waxy texture, rich and inviting, with medium-low acidity. Juicy yellow apples, baked pears, lemon bars and orange marmalade, the fruit is mixed with cinnamon crumb cake, vanilla crème, peanut brittle. Subtle chalk and white floral tones. Rich and boastful but it is undeniably delicious and sports solid complexity if you like this style. (89 points)

2016 Knights Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon KB Estate ­­- USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $60
Deep purple color. Nose shows smoky earth, dark chocolate, cedar and roasted chestnut over top deep currant and blackberry fruit. Plush texture on the palate, with surprisingly vibrant acidity, on a chewy-textured frame with smooth tannins. Juicy plums, red and black currants, smooth, refined fruit with notes of smoky earth, graphite, anise and dark chocolate adding complexity. Violets and pencil lead on the finish, this is a deep but refreshing Cabernet showing very well at the moment but should show even better in a few years. (90 points)

2016 Knights Bridge Red Blend KB Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
SRP: $50 

Deep purple color. Aromas of plums, saucy cherries with smoky earth, grilled herbs and vanilla bean. Full-bodied with velvety tannins, some medium acidity with flavors of saucy plums and currants. Notes of tilled soil, black pepper, roasted bell pepper and grilled herbs really jive well with the deep yet silky fruit and feel. Juicy, vibrant and lush, this should open nicely in a few years. Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: Napa Valley Reds

My heart is breaking as I follow from afar the news of more fires in California. The impacts of the Glass Fire that continues to devastate Napa are tragic and overwhelming. The scale of the destruction of life, property, livelihoods seems impossible to imagine. My sincerest thoughts and wishes for safety are with all of the people affected by this and other fires.

While there are so many more immediate concerns and ways to support those affected, it seems to be a good time to buy some Napa wine and raise a glass to wish them well. This week, in a spirit of support for the people who make Napa Valley wine possible, I have a round-up of some recent Napa red wine releases.

Sullivan, under new ownership since 2018, was founded by Jim O’Neill Sullivan in 1972. This Rutherford estate offers up two exciting reds in this report.

Calla Lilly Estate also brings a pair of delicious wines. This Pope Valley estate was founded by two Hong Kong-based entrepreneurs, who sought out winemaker Cary Gott. The 20 acres of vineyards reside on the eastern slopes of Howell Mountain. The 2015 vintage of their Audax is really something.

La Pelle is a Napa project that brings together Israeli-born winemaker Maayan Koschitzky, Mexican-born farmer and winemaker Miguel Luna, and American-born farmer and founder of Silverado Farming Company Peter Richmond. I’ll let their wines speak for themselves.

Shafer is a Napa stalwart that needs to introduction. Their TD-9 continues to deliver deep, Napa goodness for a reasonable price, while the Relentless Syrah lives up to its name.

All of these wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2017 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Deep purple color. Rich aromatic display of plums, tart blackberries, black currants, imbued with violets, coffee, potting soil. Ripe, juicy and full-bodied on the palate (15%) with a chewy texture, smooth tannins and medium-low acidity. Deep plum and blackberry fruit blend with coffee, dark chocolate shavings, vanilla and scorched earth tones. For fans of ripe, juicy Cabs, this offers a lot of Napa goodness for a reasonable price. Includes 11% Petite Sirah, aged 16 months in about 29% new French and American oak. (88 points)

2018 La Pelle Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $80
Vibrant purple color. A vibrant but deep mix of currant and blackberry fruit with enticing tobacco, earth, cocoa and grilled herb tones. On the palate, shows a deep, vibrant core of dark but fresh fruit, complemented by elements of tobacco leaf, bay leaf, mint, spiced black tea. Integrated vanilla and cocoa, this shows an exciting amount of freshness, which matches the juicy fruit. Offers a lot of depth and vibrancy. A blend of fruit from four appellations, includes 2% Petit Verdot, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (91 points)

2017 La Pelle Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $125
Deep purple color. Suave black cherries, currants and plums on the nose, with complex notes of earthy, tilled soil, graphite, mint and dark chocolate. A deep core of tart black currants and blackberries on the palate; grippy tannins but no harsh edges, fresh acidity. Big but refined and balanced with notes of smoky peat, potting soil, graphite, rocky earth, and carefully-woven notes of coffee and cedar. Beautiful stuff that will get even more so over the next five to eight years. Give this a lot of time in the decanter if opening anytime soon. Includes a combined 6% Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged 20 months in 80% new French oak. (93 points)

2015 Rutherford Hill Merlot - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $36
Light purple color. Aromas of mulled raspberries and cherries with earthy, sooty, tobacco and some mushroom tones. Silky tannins on the palate with fresh acidity and a smooth, velvety feel. Cherry and raspberry jam fruit mix well with nuanced coffee, dark chocolate, and earthy-tilled soil notes. Subtle tobacco and mushroom tones coming out. Quite nice, this has aged well and has more to go. (88 points)

2016 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Ultimate Red - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. On the nose, a core of rich, deep, saucy black currants, wild blueberries, with deep earth, pencil lead, anise cookie and magic marker. Full-bodied, rich texture, chewy tannins, moderate acid, with ripe and bold but nuanced and fresh as well. Gushing, deep blueberries, blackberry and currant jam, with mint, cocoa, vanilla, dark chocolate. Ripe and deep, this is delicious, hedonistic but balanced goodness. Includes 6% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 40% new French oak. (90 points)

2015 Calla Lily Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Audax - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $120
Deep purple color. Deep but inviting, with currants and dark plums, lots of coffee, dark chocolate, clove and cinnamon. Velvety tannins, structured but the acidity is quite precise and the moderate feel (14.1% alcohol) make for a really vibrant and dynamic wine. Great concentration of fruit (blueberry, black currant) with complex notes of grilled herbs, bay leaf, spicy steak rub, with nuanced cocoa and coffee. I love the vibrancy here, this isn’t a dense, heavy Napa Cab by any means - there is a ton going on here. Decant or age for some years but this is lovely. Includes a combined 8% Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, aged 27 months in 50% new French oak. (93 points)

2016 Sullivan Vineyards Coeur de Vigne - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
SRP: $90

Deep purple color. Bold but vibrant aromas of plums and currants, mixed with menthol, cocoa, anise, roasted chestnut. On the palate, this is vibrant and pretty but well-built with dusty tannins, moderate acidity and a deep but lively fruit blend of currants, plums and blackberries. Notes of cocoa, anise, graphite, charcoal, along with this invigorating mineral and rocky aesthetic. Earthy, violets, potting soil tones come out with time. This has an old-school feel that is really attractive, and it needs five to six years in the cellar to start showing its best, but this is beautiful stuff. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc with Malbec and Petit Verdot. (93 points)

2016 Sullivan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
SRP: $110
Medium purple color. Smooth, deep, inviting nose of sweet black cherries and currants, blackberries, along with scorched earth, cocoa, coffee, and rocky-dusty tones. Full-bodied, suave tannins, smooth and velvety feel with moderating acidity. A rich mix of roasted fig and plums, deep currants and blackberry jam, topped in mocha, coffee, anise. Bold flavors are accented with complexities of graphite, rocky earth and dried leaves. Delicious now but should do interesting things over the next three to five years. (91 points)

2018 Shafer TD-9 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $60
Light purple color. Beautiful nose of blackberries, black cherries and roasted figs, laced with enticing notes of scorched earth, anise, graphite, with cocoa, sweet vanilla. On the palate, this is full and suave with well-built but velvety tannins, medium/low acidity, this is big but shows lots of nuance, too. Roasted fig, blackberry and dark plum fruit is tossed with mesquite, mint, eucalyptus and clove notes, along with pretty violets and earth that come out more and more with air. This really does need time and air to unwind, but it is delightful, delicious, complex stuff. Tons of Napa goodness for a reasonable price. Merlot with 23% Cabernet Sauvignon and 21% Merlot, aged 20 months in all new French oak. (93 points)

2017 Shafer Relentless - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. Aromas of saucy plums, black currants, roasted figs, with these deep, dark, earthy tones, charcoal and graphite. Big and bold on the palate, juicy tannins, moderate acidity, it is boastful but nuanced with suave, tangy currant and plum fruit. Complex notes of mesquite, beef jerky, mint, leather, rocky elements that are delicious and fascinating to pull out. I feel like these need quite a bit of time to show their best – I think this will be beautiful in eight to 10 years. Includes 14% Petite Sirah, aged 30 months in new French oak. (93 points)

2016 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
SRP: $300
Deep purple color. Dark, deep and inviting on the nose, with suave blackberries, tart plums, black currants, laced with graphite, cocoa, anise, tobacco, and rocky, earthy tones. On the palate, this is full but fresh, with gorgeous balance between structured tannins and tangy acidity, which frames the wine so well. Juicy dark currants, plums and blackberries, with complex notes of graphite, stony earth, cocoa powder, espresso. These underlying notes of tobacco, violet petals need time to come out. This is a beautiful Hillside Select, such elegance and balance, but also staying power. I would love to see this in 10 years. Aged 32 months in new French oak. (96 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Lake County's Steele Wines Keeps Delivering the Goods

Jed Steele. Credit: Steele Wines

Long-time readers may have seen me focus on Steele Wines in the past. And that’s because there’s something about this producer’s old-school aesthetic, budget friendly appeal, and diverse and delicious portfolio, that I think deserves attention. Owner/winemaker Jed Steele has been vinifying grapes for 50 years; this year Steele Wines marked its 28th anniversary.

This old school Lake County producer puts out a staggering array of wines. There are different brands, price-points, and lots of different sources of fruit from around California. Thing is, from entry-level to their upper tier wines, these wines are reliably well-made, delicious, and frequently complex, offering a lot of bang for the buck.

I recently tasted a batch of new releases and found a lot of wines that I would recommend for those looking to try something yummy and a bit off-the-beaten path without spending a lot of money.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

White wines

2019 Steele Wines Sauvignon Blanc "Shooting Star" - USA, California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Light yellow color. Interesting notes of lemon verbena, clover and honeysuckle, on top of grapefruit and white peach. Plush texture, medium/full body, with zippy acidity, this has a real sense of precision and balance that is rare for the price point. Lemons, peaches, with minty, chalky, steely, mineral tones. From 30-year-old vines in Kelseyville, Lake County, this is fermented and aged in stainless steel. Really solid value here. (88 points)

2018 Steele Wines Cuvée Chardonnay - USA, California
SRP: $24
Light yellow color. Fresh aromas of green apples and kiwi, with hay, sea spray and honeysuckle. The palate is fresh and vibrant with zippy acidity, but solid depth and texture as well. A bright, accessible style with flavors of green apples, limes, white peach. Notes of white tea, honeysuckle, raw almond and floral perfume add complexity. Solid value here, especially for fans of brighter, less heavy styles. Blended from five vineyards in Sonoma, Santa Barbara and Lake Counties, aged eight months in 20% new French oak. (87 points)

2018 Steele Wines Chardonnay Parmelee-Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
SRP: $36
Medium yellow color. Gorgeous nose of honey, ginger, almond, toasted nuts, but also these brighter, sea breeze tones, all on top of juicy yellow pears. Plump and lovely texture on the palate but vibrant acidity, matched with pure, deep fruit (honeydew, lemon, yellow pear. Nuanced notes of nougat, honeycomb and ginger snap contrast with these crushed shells, sea salt and mineral elements really well. This is Sonoma Valley Chardonnay goodness at a great price, aged 12 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)





2018 Steele Wines Chardonnay Durell Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Carneros
SRP: $38
Medium yellow color. Creamy nose with salted almond, dried straw, shaved ginger, over top of juicy yellow apples and pears. Lively acidity frames the wine well, supported with a creamy texture and ripe but lively fruit (yellow apples, lemon curd, white peach). Complex, racy elements of minerals, crushed seashells, rocky stream add lip-smacking elements while notes of graham cracker and honeycomb add depth. Balanced, serious, age-worthy stuff here. Aged 12 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)

Red wines

2017 Steele Wines Merlot - USA, California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $20
Deep purple color. Nose of currants and juicy plums, fig paste, with anise, violets, toffee and cedar. Full and suave with fresh acidity, this has chunks of plum, crunchy blackberries, suave but fresh fruit. Pepper, tobacco, cedar and coffee grounds, this has a lot of nuance and freshness for a Zinfandel at this price point. Serious Zinfandel from the Kelsey Bench AVA, this spends 14 months in 30% new French and American oak. (89 points)

2017 Steele Wines Pinot Noir “Shooting Star” - USA, California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Spicy rhubarb and pepper on the nose with rose petals, red currants and wild raspberries. Medium-bodied with silky-light tannins, fresh acidity, this is zippy and crushable, which is great, whole sporting some fun flavors. Wild strawberries and raspberries, crunchy red apples, with cinnamon sticks, pepper, tobacco and clove. Fun, fresh, vibrant, this has a lot of appeal for a Pinot at this price point, which is rare. Aged nine months in French and Hungarian oak. (86 points)

2018 Steele Wines Zinfandel “Shooting Star” - USA, California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $15
Deep ruby color. Smells of jammy cherries and raspberries with smoky earth, chewing tobacco, mocha and root beer. Full-bodied on the palate with chewy texture, light tannins, rich, ripe and summer-friendly stuff. Jammy black cherries and plum sauce fruit mixed with cola, toffee and vanilla. Fun, grill-friendly stuff. Aged eight months in American and Hungarian oak. (86 points)

2017 Steele Wines Zinfandel Old Vines Pacini Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $20
Light purple color. Aromas of cherries, wild blueberries, raspberries, with integrated notes of mesquite, anise cookie, scorched earth. Full-bodied, chewy texture, velvety tannins, but stays lively and fresh with some moderating acidity. Black cherries, tart plums, wild raspberries, with bold notes of earth, tobacco, roasted chestnut, along with vanilla, coffee and dark chocolate Forward and packed with fruit but this shows a lot of complexity as well. Aged 12 months in 30% new American oak. (89 points)

2016 Steele Wines Zinfandel Century Old Vines Catfish Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Clear Lake
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Nose shows jammy raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, with violets, coffee and vanilla. Vibrant acidity makes this a pleasure to drink from start to finish, the smooth tannins have some structure, but the wine feels accessible with tart black cherry and blueberry fruit. Notes of scorched earth, pepper, graphite, loamy earth. Deep but fresh, showing mineral tones, this is just entering a good drinking phase, and I’d love to see this in two or three years. Seriously impressive Zin for this price point. Originally planted in 1901, own-rooted, head pruned vines that include small amounts of Carignan, Alicante, and others. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International Grab Bag

I’m back this week with another round-up of some recent samples from around the world.

This week, Umberto Cesari delivers two interesting wines from Emilia-Romagna’s Rubicone region.

For years now, I’ve been very impressed with Troon’s wines, and they continue to keep their stride. These wines are biodynamic, lower-alcohol, made with native yeasts, and they show tremendous depth and complexity. The U.S. wine scene is lucky to have Troon, an outfit that always maintains quality and focus while constantly branching out and experimenting. And, apparently, now they make one of the only Piquettes I’ve tasted that I can honestly recommend.

And there’s also Post Malone’s Maison No. 9 French pink – hey, I review what I get!

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Maison No. 9 Mediterranée Rosé - France, Provence, Mediterranée
SRP: $22
Medium copper color. Juicy aromas of sweet white peach, juicy watermelon, with honey, sweet white flowers. On the palate, this has a light and crunchy feel with white peach, McIntosh apple, lemon peel. Notes of celery seed, white pepper and mint. Fun, light, stuff but shows some interesting elements – not just celebrity plonk. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Merlot. (86 points)

2019 Benvolio Pinot Grigio - Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Grave
$10
Pale copper color. Aromas of white peaches, honey, pineapple, with white flowers, fresh laundry and clover. Peaches and green melons lead the way on the palate, a creamy texture with bright acidity works nicely, and the wine has this interesting chalky, flinty aspect. White tea, verbena and mint, even some minerality showing through, this has a lot going on for a budget-friendly Pinot Grigio. (87 points)

2018 Umberto Cesari Liano Bianco - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Rubicone
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. Inviting nose of creamy pears, guava, orange peel, along with honeysuckle, daisies, dandelion – ripe but fresh. Plump texture on the palate, vibrant acidity, this is fruity but fresh, with a medley of guava, orange, papaya and lime. Creamy and juicy but balanced, too, accented with notes of honeycomb, chamomile tea, minerals and sea salt. Focused and bright on the finish, this is lovely. Chardonnay with 30% Sauvignon Blanc, aged three months in oak. (90 points)

2017 Umberto Cesari Liano - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Rubicone
SRP: $35
Light purple color. Nose shows smoky earth, tobacco and charcoal on top of black tea, oregano, with juicy black cherries and currant jam. On the palate, this shows silky tannins, medium acidity, and a chewy, approachable presence with black cherries and raspberry jam. Notes of green herbs, glazed mushroom and cocoa add complexity. Fun, spicy, juicy style that offers lots of food pairing options. Sangiovese with 30% Cabernet, aged 18 months in barrel. (88 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. Aromas pop with daisies, baby’s breath, dandelion and mint, over white cherries, watermelon rind and chalk dust. Zesty and clean on the palate, this light-bodied rose has such focus and precision. Tangy white cherries and strawberry, watermelon rind, mixing with gorgeous rose petals, dandelion, wild clover, hay and white tea. Really pretty and complex, this is serious pink, here. A co-fermented blend of Tinta Roriz, Primitivo and Grenache, 11.7% alcohol. (91 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Beautiful light amber color. Aromas of salty, briny goodness, with orange peel, candied lemon, and some wild herbs, spiced tea, clay and musk – a lot going on. Such clarity and focus on the palate, medium-bodied, a deeply texture wine but it’s so bright throughout. Candied lemon, orange peel, apricot, the fruit mixes with ginger, mint, fennel, mineral, clay. So complex but it goes down so easily. Not too wild or out there, this would be a great way to introduce folks to orange/amber wines, but it has enough to get orange wine geeks excited, too. Exceptional stuff. 74% Riesling, 16% Vermentino and 10% Marsanne, fermented separately then aged in old French oak. (93 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Piquette - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light watermelon color. Aromas of wild strawberry, tart cranberry, with watermelon rind, white pepper, musk and bay leaf. Light and zippy on the palate with fine bubbles and crunchy tart white cherries and wild raspberries. Notes of mint, bay leaf, musk, spiced tea. Crushable but interesting, funky and spicy, but fun. Made from the pomace of whole-cluster-pressed white grapes (Marsanne and Vermentino) and from red grapes for rosé or pét nat (TInta Roriz, Primitivo and Tannat), with no added sugar. (88 points)

2019 Troon Vineyard Pét tanNat - USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $30
Deep yellow color. Bright and zesty aromas of white pepper, white flowers, sea salt and chalk on top of apricot and tart yellow plum fruit. So crisp on the palate, this is chalky, dry, bright but sports delightful creaminess and fine bubbles. Tart yellow plum and lemon fruit mix well with talc, chalk, limestone notes, even some cucumber and tobacco leaf elements. This is brisk and light-bodied but shows a lot of depth. It’s also really versatile and a really hard wine not to love. Nothing but praise for this effort from Troon. Made from 100% estate Tannat. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Napa Wines Like None Other: Ashes & Diamonds

I’m back this week to focus on more California wines, this time from Napa’s Ashes & Diamonds.

This project was founded by California native Kashy Khaledi, a media and advertising executive, in 2013. The winery brands itself as “a love letter to Napa Valley as it was when it took the world stage in the 1960s.” Their glassy, mid-century modern winery, located off Highway 29, looks like a fascinating place to visit.

For winemaking duties, Khaledi wisely sought out renowned winemaker Steve Matthiasson and Diana Snowden Seysses, enologist at Domaine Dujac and winemaker at Snowden Vineyards. The several vineyard sources seem like truly special sites, from the gravelly, clay and loam soils of the Ashes & Diamonds Vineyard in Oak Knoll to the thin, rocky soils of the Mountain Peak Vineyard in the Atlas Peak appellation.

I had been aware of these wines for a while, but never wrapped my palate around one until recently. I receive and review a lot of California wines, many of which I appreciate and enjoy. But it’s rare that I taste wines that get me as stoked as these. Sipping these wines, I was shocked at their complexity, vibrancy, effortlessness. The wines are really special and delicious, and perfect for palates with a tendency toward old-school California and Old World styles.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.  

2017 Ashes & Diamonds Blanc No. 3 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $45
Bright yellow color. Wow, the aromas are stunning and invigorating. Quince, fig, lemon peel, papaya, the fruit is topped in yellow flowers, honey, candle wax, sea salt, mountain stream. Precise and focused on the palate, the light body (11.9% alcohol) meets a deeply textured wine, full of apricot, lemon and green melon fruit. Brisk, mineral, wild herb, honey and chalk notes add all sorts of complexity. Such a nervy, packed wine, this will improve for many years. 50/50 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon from two vineyards in Oak Knoll and Yountville, barrel-fermented, aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (94 points)

2019 Ashes & Diamonds Rosé No. 4 - USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $39
Medium copper color. Such an inviting and vibrant mix of aromas, from yellow pear, apricot and raspberry, to celery seed, mint, with notes of crushed shells, clover and chalk dust. Crisp and bright on the palate (12.4%) balanced with this textural depth and flavor complexity. Apricot, melon rind, white peaches and lemons, the fruit is juicy and pure, accented with all sorts of floral, salty, flinty, mineral, herbal tones. Beautiful presence on the palate, opens up wonderfully with air. A fantastic rosé that you can enjoy now or forget about for a few years and be assured of deliciousness. Whole-cluster Made from Cabernet Franc from Carneros, Oak Knoll and Yountville. (92 points)

2017 Ashes & Diamonds Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain Cuvée No. 2 Bates Ranch - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains
SRP: $105
Medium purple color. So fresh and inviting on the nose, with chilled black cherries, plums, topped generously with spicy black tea, clove, plenty of rocky, dusty tones, with pepper, violets. Fresh and crisp on the palate, this is a medium-bodied Cabernet (13%) with structured but fine tannins and incredible balance and mouthfeel. Cool black cherries, crunchy plums and wild blackberry fruit mix so well with mint, tilled soil, violets, clove. Lots of pepper, mushroom and mineral tones come out, more so with air. This is beautiful but needs several years at least to show its best. From a 2,100-foot vineyard on a 30% southeast slope. Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc, aged 19 months in 40% new French oak. (94 points)

2017 Ashes & Diamonds Cabernet Sauvignon No. 2 Mountain Peak Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $125
Medium purple color. What a gorgeous nose! Vibrant currants, tangy plums, juicy blackberries, with inviting notes of warm clay, rocky earth, leather, cocoa and mint – needs time to open and show its full aromatic potential, but lots to unpack. Medium-bodied with precise acidity throughout, the tannins show structure but refinement. Black and red currant fruit abounds, with suave plums, and the fruit is laced with fascinating elements of green herbs, leather, rocky earth, black tea and anise. Beautiful, refined but age-worthy – what a stunner. Aged 19 months in 30% new French oak. (94 points) 

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Hawk and Horse Vineyards' Lake County Reds

Credit: Hawk and Horse Vineyards

California is on my mind and heart these days, as I watch from afar as these fires destroy so much. My thoughts and hopes are with all of you affected by these California fires. Stay safe.

There's never been a better time to support California wineries, so today I want to shine a light on some interesting wines from Lake County, which has some special sites and exciting vineyards. These wines still don’t get nearly as much attention as wines from its neighboring counties, but that just means there is much to explore. I’ve tried to highlight different Lake County producers, and this week, I’m excited to dig into an old favorite: Hawk and Horse Vineyards.

After an exhaustive search for a site in the North Coast, David Boies settled on the El Roble Grande Ranch in Lower Lake, California, in 1982. It was an abandoned horse-breeding facility surrounded by 900 acres of wilderness. But the high-elevation (1,800 to 2,200 feet), red volcanic soils, pristine nature and access to water, showed potential for growing great grapes.

Co-owners Mitch and Tracey Hawkins took over daily ranch operations and planted the vines in 2001. Today, they have about 18 acres of grapes, mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with about an acre apiece of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. The winery still houses some horses and cattle, and is home to many red-tailed hawks (hence the name). The vineyards have been certified organic since 2004 and biodynamic since 2008.

I’ve tasted this Cabernet Sauvignon a few times over the years, and found it to be a consistently exciting and dynamic wine, showing structure, pretty fruit, and some unique and complex earthy, spicy tones. It seemed like a wine that could age, but I never had the chance to test that out, until now. In addition to the other wines in this tasting report, the winery is also selling a trio of library releases (which includes the 2008, 2009 and 2010 vintages) for $330. While that’s not cheap, if these wines said Napa on the label, I think folks would call this a “value.” Tasting these aged wines was an eye-opening experience that really allows the taster to understand the intricacies of this special place.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2008 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $110
Light purple color. Aromas of mulled cherries and plums, still lively, aged but by no means tired, with notes of anise, cocoa, charcoal, tart. Velvety, smooth tannins (still some dusty grip) with medium acidity. Black currant, roasted sweet plum fruit, nuanced and aged but still juicy. Integrated and balanced with elements of pine tar, fallen leaves, cedar and cocoa powder. Complex, interesting, and not done yet. Includes 2% Merlot, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)

2009 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $110
Deep purple color. Aromas of mulled blackberries and red currants, dark and saucy, with anise, graphite, lots of tar, some mocha and leather. Full-bodied but fresh on the palate with structured, suave tannins and medium acidity. The tangy blackberry and spiced currant jam fruit is lovely, and accented with leather, coffee beans, anise cookie, fallen leaves. Still vibrant, the acidity is great, the fruit is waning and allowing secondary notes to take the forefront, but it’s still in a great place right now and will evolve well over the next five years. All Cabernet aged 13 months in 100% new French oak. (91 points)

2010 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $110
Medium purple color. Nose of black currants and blackberry with smoky earth, menthol, tar, sooty but lively with dark chocolate and anise – gorgeous aromatics. On the palate, this is lively and balanced, tannins still grippy, fresh acidity, along with plums and mulled currants. Lots of underlying mineral, graphite and rocky earth tones, with dried leaves and soy. Wow, this has some Left Bank signatures but clearly California, too. I’d love to see this in three or four years. Really well done, holding up great. All Cabernet aged 21 months in 90% new French oak. (92 points)

2015 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Aromas of plums, dark currants, laced with smoky earth, leather, tar, fallen leaves, with notes of iron and menthol. Full-bodied, structured and suave with fresh acidity. Deep, tart fresh fruit (blueberry, black currant, plums) with complex notes of charcoal, pencil shavings, clove and anise. Deep but fresh, especially after tasting the older wines, I realize just how long this vintage will probably last. Hold or decant. Includes 10% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc aged 23 months in 80% new French oak. (91 points)

2016 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Block Three - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $50
Deep purple color. Nose shows rich plums, prunes, violets, saucy blueberries, with graphite, vanilla and coffee. Full, smooth, fresh, impressive balanced, with roasted but tangy fruit (fig, blueberries, black currants), along with concentrated notes of mint chocolate chip, anise, charcoal, dark chocolate. Forward, dark and concentrated, but shows freshness underneath, and significant complexity. I’d hold onto this for a few years. Includes 5% Petit Verdot, aged 25 months in French oak. (90 points)

2015 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petite Sirah - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple. Nose of deep, tart currants, along with plums, smoky earth, graphite, tobacco and ink. Full-bodied, built solidly, but there’s some freshness as well. Dark plums, saucy blueberries, fleshy but vibrant with lots of iron, pencil lead, charcoal, balsamic glazed mushrooms, grilled steak. Smoky and deep but also fresh – this would be great in a few years, as those savory elements come out even more. All Petite Sirah aged 20 months in French oak. (90 points)

2014 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Latigo - USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $50/375ml
Medium purple color. Aromas of sweet figs, roasted plums, mixed with inviting elements of toffee, dark chocolate, vanilla, also earthy, roasted herb tones – lovely stuff to sniff. Plush and rich on the palate (19% alcohol) with smooth tannins, moderating acidity really helps balance out the sweetness – well-integrated. Flavors of sweet figs and saucy plums and blackberry glaze, suave, delightful fruit. Notes of caramel, espresso, roasted nuts mix so well with these black tea, charcoal and graphite elements. This is a delicious, complex, all Cabernet Franc dessert wine. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.