Diverse Australian Shiraz from Two Hands

Syrah is my favorite grape, and I love all of its great iterations.

In a world of increasing uncertainty and change, I find Two Hands wines to be refreshingly reliable. I first tried Two Hands in 2007 or so, and I was a newb and venturing into more “serious” bottles while trying to spend my money wisely. That’s when I tasted some of Two Hands’ Australian Shiraz, and I was hooked. A few years later, I shared a 2002 Ares Shiraz with friends, and the wine and experience was exquisite. It was such a memorable, singular bottle and time that I became a life-long fan.

That said, it had actually been a while since I opened a Two Hands wines, so I was excited to attend a virtual tasting with co-founder Michael Twelftree. When he and his co-founder decided in 1999 to pursue making great Aussie Shiraz and marketing it to the world, I wonder if they imagined it would turn out so well. As a lover and student of wine, I respect what this winery’s approach, from the consistency of quality (of course – that’s first), to the diverse lines of wine they produce, to the whimsical yet meaningful names, the label design and marketing. It seems like a team that take their work very seriously, but not themselves too seriously.

Coming from a background in construction, Michael fell in love with wine at an in-store tasting (just like me) and said, “this magical world of wine unfolded before me.” He continued: “We are always trying to think of everything we do through the consumer’s perspective.” Its a stated goal that rings true to me, as a consumer of these wines.

A long-time player in the U.S. market, he also acknowledged it can be difficult to convey regional differences in South Australia, from the purple-fruited but coastal-influenced McLaren Vale wines to the deeper, more concentrated juice from Barossa. But the more time you spend with these wines, especially when tasting them together, those regional nuances and signatures start to become evident. While I drink far more Syrah from France and the U.S., I love that Two Hands consistently provides Shiraz (and other wines), that speak so eloquently of their place.

While the winery has expanded to acquire new sites in recent years, I found the same quality and vibrancy in this recent tasting that I remember from years and years ago. The alcohol is kept in check, which makes these wines lively and refreshing, and the oak is also used sparingly and efficiently.

If you’ve never tried Two Hands, or if you’re of the opinion Australian wines just aren’t for you anymore, I’d urge you to reconsider. As long as this crew continues doing what they’re doing, there will always be a welcome spot on this Cornas-lover’s table for Two Hands wines.

These wines (all 100% Shiraz) were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Two Hands Shiraz Angels’ Share - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $44
Concentrated purple color with a gorgeous nose of plum cake, blueberries, blackberries, doused in anise, black pepper, scorched earth, mint and cocoa – and the mix is really pleasurable. Full but smooth on the palate with chewy tannins, lively acidity, well-balanced. The fruit is ripe but nuanced and complex, with blackberries, blueberries, plum compote, mixed with interesting notes of black pepper glaze, anise, soy, sauteed mushrooms and earth. The depth is really nice but I really enjoy the refreshing and accessible feel as well. Aged 14 months in 12% new French oak, 14.2% alcohol. (90 points)

2020 Two Hands Shiraz Gnarly Dudes - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $49
Deep purple. Tart but deep fruit on the nose (currants and blueberries), along with complexities of violet petals, clove and black pepper. The palate is structured well with smooth-edged tannins and a tart, crunchy appeal to set the stage for the juicy blueberry and dark plum fruit. Tar, violets, pepper, roasted herbs, smoked meats, but really fresh and lively throughout. Juicy but lip-smacking, this is a delightful Shiraz that should hold up nicely as well. Aged 12 months in 13% new French oak, 14% alcohol. (91 points)

2018 Two Hands Shiraz Bella's Garden - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $79
Vibrant purple color. Deep and smoky on the nose, with a mix of tart blueberries and black currants, laced with potting soil, scorched earth, eucalyptus and mint, rocky-graphite tones. The palate shows smooth but structured tannins, balanced acidity, and plenty of tart plum, blueberry fruit and black currants, everything lines up really well together. Complexities of tar, chewing tobacco, beef brisket, pepper, paprika – there’s so much nuanced savory goodness in here. Finishes with spiced black tea and violets. Really beautiful stuff that is drinking great right now. Aged 17 months in 13% new French oak, 13.8% alcohol. (93 points)

2018 Two Hands Shiraz Lily's Garden - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
SRP: $79
Gorgeous purple color. The layers of fruit on the nose are so enticing, with juicy black cherries, dark plums and wild blueberries, along with complex spiced tea, tar, violets, rose petals and earthy-clay tones. The palate is so lively and crisp, which keeps this wine racing forward, and it’s balanced with deep but tart fruit (black cherries, currants, dark plums), and a bed of smooth tannins. The spiced tea, rose petals, tar, black pepper and bacon tones are vibrant and nuanced. The elegance here is really something, and while this is already strutting its stuff, I’d love to see this in four years or so. Aged 17 months in 13% new French oak, 13.8% alcohol. (94 points)

2020 Two Hands Shiraz 'Yacca Block' Mengler's Hill - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
SRP: $110
Deep purple color. Gorgeous nose of deep blueberry and tangy black cherry, laced with complex notes of mesquite, clay soil, black pepper, violet potpourri, clove and cinnamon, and just an airy and inviting appeal despite the depth and concentration. Full-bodied, nice concentration, vibrant acidity, the balance is delightful, long-aging but a lot to show. Tart blueberries and juicy blackberry fruit, so deep but fresh, and a lot else to unpack: black pepper, tar, violets, smoky earth and eucalyptus tones. This will age wonderfully, but a vibrant, beautiful Shiraz. From a higher elevation site in Eden Valley, this is aged 12 months in 20% new French oak (95 points)

2020 Two Hands Shiraz 'Coach House Block' Seppeltsfield Road, Greenock - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
SRP: $110
Concentrated purple color. The nose on this is really rocking and spicy, with these beefy, smoked sausage, black pepper, anise and paprika tones over top waves of tangy blueberries and black cherries. The palate has great grip and structure but the acidity sings, and the balance is on-point. A tart core of blueberries and blackberries, gorgeous fruit, mixed with complexities of leather, tar, anise, menthol and graphite. Hints of cocoa and smoked meat round out the finish. Concentrated but beautiful Barossa goodness, give this air and or five to eight years, but it’s a special one. Aged 12 months in 20% new French oak. (94 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

California on the mind: special selections

California has been on my mind a lot lately. I’ve been following harvest reports and wineries as they prepare the 2022 vintage. And with the long-term drought, the recent heat wave, and now there’s a threat of flooding from hurricane leftovers? Sheesh! I hope you any California readers have been staying cool and well over this stretch.

So, this week, I have some really special wines from California to share – some chosen selections from producers I’ve grown to respect and appreciate.

Singer Wines at Baker Lane Estate really comes out swinging with two exceptional Rhone wines. Made by legend Stephen Singer, the wines from this west-facing site in the Sebastopol Hills speak with a crystal-clear voice to their place and grapes. If you’re looking for highly delicious yet nuanced Syrah and Viognier, these small-production wines are definitely worth your time and money.

Eden Rift makes some focused and singular Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and it was a privilege to taste their 2019s. From the limestone-rich soils of the Cienega Valley, these are wines you taste and can just tell they come from a very special place. Especially considering the prices, the wines consistently overperform, and the 2019s are singing.

Sonoma is well represented here, including by Sonoma-Cutrer’s new Grand Brut Rosé, which certainly overdelivers for the price. LaPelle performs with a striking Bien Nacido Pinot Noir, and DuMOL’s Pinot offering is also delightful. Lastly, I also have a Paso Robles Cab that’s a whole lot of fun -- Tooth and Nail’s wines are reliably delicious and this Cab is like a chunky slab of rock-and-roll in the glass, for a solid price.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Grand Brut Rosé Winemaker's Release - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $55
Deep copper color. A gorgeous aromatic display that combines raspberries, white cherries and tart yellow apples with richer tones of honey and biscuits and bracing elements of chalk and talc. On the palate, this is crisp and nervy, pure and racy, with a core of red apple, raspberry and white cherry fruit. The balance is delightful, and it has this deep but crunchy feel, with tones of biscuits, honey and hay tossed with seashells, minerals, flowers, combining for this ocean meets spring meadow appeal. Complex and nervy, this should age wonderfully and is one of the best California sparkling wines I’ve tasted in a while. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. (93 points)

2021 Singer Wine Viognier Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $75
Medium yellow color. Classic deep Viognier aromas, but it has a lot of unique twists and turns that are a delight to follow: banana, kiwi, white peach, with honeycomb and raw almond, notes of chalk dust and sea salt. On the palate – wow! – the acidity is racy and fresh (thankfully) which balances well with the deep, waxy texture and juicy papaya and pineapple fruit (a drizzle of lime in there, too). The floral tones are perfumed but nuanced, and tones of chalk dust and saline are welcomed. Creamy but fresh, a delightful Sonoma Viognier worth seeking out. From a cool, west-facing site that really shines through, this is 13.8% alcohol and aged five months in neutral oak. (93 points)

2019 Singer Wine Syrah Baker Lane Estate - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $95
Deep purple color. The nose is delightfully spicy, with these paprika, red pepper flakes and black pepper dusted over a host of fresh blueberries and tart red plums – and it works so, so well. The tangy acidity sets the stage, dusty but structured tannins offer structure and grip, while the balance and freshness are on point. Tangy blackberries and red/black currant fruit mixes with lots of violets, clove, black pepper, with loamy earth and a hint of barbecue sauce and grilled meat. Spicy, fresh, floral, delicious, this will do wonders in the cellar, too. 15% whole cluster fermentation, includes 2% Viognier, aged 26 months in 450-liter puncheons, 13.8% alcohol. (94 points)

2020 DuMOL Pinot Noir Wester Reach Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $80
Medium ruby color. So alive on the nose including red cherries, plums and raspberries, with a complex web of spice and floral elements (rose hips, rhubarb, cola, white pepper, tobacco, sage). The palate shows crisp acidity and smooth, structured tannins with a juicy, fresh appeal. The raspberry, red apple and cherry fruit is crunchy and zesty, and it mixes well with complexities of earth, rhubarb, tomato leaf, with nuanced cola, roasted chestnut and birch elements. Vibrant, forward but earthy and dusty. This should do nicely with three or four years in the cellar but it’s expressive already. A blend from vineyards including Flax Estate, DuMol Estate, Occidental Road and others, aged 12 months in 25% new French oak. (92 points)

2019 Eden Rift Chardonnay Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $42
Rich gold color. The aromas are so bright and spritely, with chalk dust, yellow flowers, meadow breeze, with lemons, limes and pineapple. Pure and crisp on the palate, a zippy yet creamy mouthfeel, delightful balance. The yellow apple, lime and papaya fruit blends well with flinty minerals, clover, honey, accents of almond and candle wax. Deep texture but stays racy and feels effortless throughout. So much Chardonnay goodness for the price. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Estate - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley
SRP: $48
Bright ruby color. On the nose, this is airy and floral, and I get tart cranberry relish, pomegranate fruit and red cherries. Full of seasonings and spices (white pepper, clove, rhubarb, celery seed), and the combination is invigorating. On the palate, this is smooth and silky but structured, with lip-smacking acidity and a bright, balanced feel. Tangy raspberries and red apple peel, such pretty texture and mouthfeel, with elements of clay, rhubarb, dusty earth, rose petals and white pepper. This will age marvelously. (93 points)

2019 Eden Rift Pinot Noir Palmtag Block - USA, California, Central Coast, Cienega Valley

SRP: $78
Gorgeous ruby color. So breezy and floral on the nose, yet such depth, too: rose hips, rhubarb, white pepper, oregano and basil over top of crunchy cranberry and wild raspberry fruit. Crisp acidity and fine-grained tannins make for a pure and balanced wine, and the red fruit is vibrant and alive (cranberry, red apple, raspberry). Complex notes of rhubarb, rose petals, paprika and white pepper add a lot to ponder, and the mouthfeel is fantastic. Their first single-block Pinot, from between the flatter vineyards and the terraces. A real beauty that has a lot more to show in the cellar. (95 points)

2020 Tooth & Nail Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $26
Vibrant purple color. Juicy but pretty on the nose with cherries and plum sauce, along with savory and spicy elements of clove, anise, creosote and pepper – has a real grill-out vibe that is a ton of fun. Suave on the palate with enough acidity to keep it lively and a chewy but nuanced feel. Blackberry, raspberry and fig fruit meld well with tones of tar, roasted red pepper and graphite. Ripe and fun but quite complex and balanced as well. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak, this bottle has an augmented reality character-driven label as well. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: locals' summer selections

Happy Labor Day weekend! I, for one, am excited to see September again. We finally got a break from the heat and humidity here in the Mid-Atlantic region, and I’m sure the autumnal decorations and pumpkin spice will be arriving en masse soon.

Growing up two blocks from the beach on the Jersey Shore, we called September “locals’ summer,” and it was my favorite time. The tourists tended to clear out from our beach town while the air and water temperatures stayed delightful all through September. And we still have about three weeks of summer left (meteorologically speaking), so there’s plenty of time to hit the ocean, the lake, the river, or gather up family and friends for a grill-out.

As such, here’s a handful of wines that I’d welcome to any locals’ summer gathering.

I’ve got another Alentejo white this week because, well, they are delightful and fit the bill. And a Godello from Pagos del Galir in Spain will certainly keep the summer vibes going.

Rosé needs a place at the table (or beach), so I’ve got an exceptional offering from Sonoma’s Ram’s Gate and delicious pinks from Languedoc and Provence. I also have some crushable bubbles with an impressive Cava from Poema, and some value-driven Northern Italian wines with Corvezzo’s offerings.

As the evenings get cooler, I’m looking forward to some juicy, spicy red wines, and Chile is a great place to go. I’ve enjoyed the serious depth and value found from the Primus label, imported by Gonzalez Byass. Sourcing organically grown Cabernet and Carmenere from Apalta and Maipo, these wines provide grill-friendly appeal, plenty of stony, earthy complexity, all with very moderate price tags.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

Whites and bubbles

2020 Quinta da Fonte Souto Portalegre Branco - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Portalegre
SRP: $26
Deep yellow color. The nose is packed with goodness. I get richer tones of honey, almond and baked bread, pineapples, with brighter and fresher notes of lemon, sea salt, and white flowers. The palate shows a creamy texture, supporter by lively acidity, and the lemon, papaya and pineapple fruit is ripe but tangy. The notes of chalk, honey, hay, nougat, crushed oyster shells and white flowers add a lot to love and contemplate. This is versatile, delicious and beautiful, and I think it should age nicely for a while as well. Arinto with 25% Verdelho, and 60% of the wine was fermented in oak on the lees. (92 points)

2020 Virgen del Galir Godello Pagos del Galir - Spain, Galicia, Valdeorras
SRP: $21
Medium yellow color. Beautiful fruit salad aromas of yellow apple, kiwi and white peach, along with fresh basil, chalk dust and mountain streams. The palate has delightful zestiness and a crisp texture but plenty of depth, with yellow apples, lemons and limes, white peach fruit. Accents of white flowers, basil, honey and sliced cucumber add a pleasant, fresh touch. Focused, fresh, complex, this Godello delivers. Aged six months in stainless steel and barrels. (90 points)

N.V. Poema Cava Brut - Spain, Cava
SRP: $15
Rich yellow color. Lovely nose, a mix of spritely and deeper tones, with limestone and river rocks, hay, yellow flowers, over orange peels, lemon and papaya. Crisp and clear on the palate, the acidity is really bright and the palate has this pleasantly creamy texture with fine bubbles. Pears, lemon and papaya fruit mix with clean, stony, mineral-laden goodness. There’s a ton of complexity packed in here for the price. Xarel·lo, Macabeu, and Parellada, aged 12 months on the lees. (89 points)

2020 Azienda Agricola Corvezzo Pinot Grigio Organic & Vegan - Italy, Delle Venezie
SRP: $13
Medium yellow color. Super floral on the nose with all sorts of yellow and white flowers, mixed with nettle and cucumber slices, over zesty lemon and green apple fruit. Racy acidity on the palate with a creamy feel and flavors of white peaches and kiwi. Notes of rosewater, celery seed and white pepper add some complexity. Bright, spritely, floral and fresh. (85 points)

2020 Azienda Agricola Corvezzo Prosecco - Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Treviso
SRP: $13
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemons and green apples, with floral perfume, sea salt, crushed sweet tarts and some white pepper. Fun and fresh, light and crisp with moderate sugar and bright acidity, along with lemon and melon fruit. Floral, fresh, accessible and pleasant. (86 points)

2020 Azienda Agricola Corvezzo Prosecco Rosé - Italy, Veneto/Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Prosecco
SRP: $13
Pale salmon color. The nose shows chalky, crushed sweet tart vibes and honeysuckle with raspberries and lemons. Light-bodied, zesty acidity and juicy bubbles with raspberry and white cherry fruit. Notes of honeysuckle, rose petals, floral perfume and sweet tarts. Fun and fresh, light and balanced Prosecco. (87 points)

Rosé

2021 Les Sarrins Côtes de Provence Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. This smells floral and bright, with white peaches and lemons, honeysuckle and lilies, with some sliced cucumber and celery seed notes. The palate is light, crisp and refreshing, with lemon, cantaloupe and white peach fruit. I get a lot of cool spicy and floral elements, like dandelion, white pepper, honeysuckle and mint, which adds a nice interesting kick. Fun, crowd-pleasing stuff that shows solid value but also a lot of depth and complexity. Made from Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Vermentino. (90 points)

2021 Ram's Gate Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $38
Light watermelon color. The nose has exquisite tones of chalk dust, saline, flowers for days, rose hips, white pepper, all over top a bowl of fresh white cherries and strawberries. Pure and racy on the palate, this has pleasant creaminess and live-wire acidity, and the balance is lovely. White cherries, raspberries and red apple fruit, tingly, crunchy and alive, backed up with complexities of chalk, mountain stream, limestone. A focused, zesty, crystal clear rose – no rush on emptying these soon, either, as I’d love to try one next summer to see how it has developed. Pinot Noir with 25% Grenache, aged six months in neutral oak barrels. (92 points)

2021 Hampton Water Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc
SRP: $25
Pale copper color. The nose is spritely and alive, sporting wild raspberry and red apple peel, along with floral perfume and chalky, salty vibes. Crisp as expected but it also has nice textural depth, with flavors of tangy white cherries and juicy raspberries. Notes of daisies, honeysuckle, dandelion and some slight green herb tones add complexity. Bright but shows some honeyed elements as well, this is beach and seafood friendly stuff. A collaboration between winemaker Gérard Bertrand, Jon Bon Jovi and his son Jesse Bongiovi. (88 points)

Reds

2018 Primus Cabernet Sauvignon - Chile, Maipo Valley
SRP: $21
Vibrant purple color. A deep core of tart black currant and black cherry fruit, tossed with tobacco leaf, violet petals, roasted red pepper and tomato leaf – smelling it just makes me want to grill steak and veg. A tart mix of plum and currant fruit on the palate is buttressed by moderately grippy tannins and vibrant acidity. The tones of smoky earth, tar, violets, soy and tobacco add a lot to ponder and enjoy. A lot of freshness and complexity in here. Aged 12 months in French oak, 18% new. (89 points)

2018 Primus Carménère - Chile, Colchagua Valley, Apalta
SRP: $21
Bright purple color. Lovely nose of raspberries and black cherries, topped in a cool mix of spicy bell pepper, black pepper, sage, with nuances of vanilla and cola. Juicy texture, nice grip on the palate but everything stays smooth, with delightful freshness as well. The cranberry relish and black currant fruit is deep and tangy, laced with black pepper, anise, smoky tones and tobacco. Really love this grape and this iteration of it. Aged 12 months in 18% new French oak. (90 points)

2018 Primus The Blend - Chile, Colchagua Valley, Apalta
SRP: $21
Light purple color. Ooh, the nose gushes with sweet cherries, dark plums, and complexities of black pepper, clove, rose potpourri, violet and clay. The palate is super suave with smooth but structured tannins and lively acidity. Fresh plums and cherries, backed up with cocoa, coffee, gravelly earth, and a mix of deep floral and spice tones to unpack. A delightfully balanced and pretty Chilean red, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Carmenere, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in 2/3 French oak for 12 months. (90 points)

2020 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Organic - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
SRP: $17
Vibrant ruby color. Aromas of cherries and plum compote, and a fun and spicy mix of tobacco, spiced tea, paprika, tomato leaf and rose hips. Chewy tannins on the palate, moderate acidity, and juicy plum and currant fruit makes for a nicely-balanced, medium-bodied wine. Savory tones of beef, bay leaf and pepper mix with roses and violet petals, some chewing tobacco and mint. A great intro Rioja at a solid price. Aged six months in oak. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Summery rosatos from Italy -- cheap and delicious

Don’t worry – there’s still plenty of time left in summer, at least technically. It seems like summer lasts forever these days anyway, but luckily, so does pink wine season.

This week I have a handful of rosato wines from Italy that I found interesting and exciting. From Veneto to Puglia, these wines are made from traditional regional grapes like Montepulciano and Susumaniello, and their colors span the gamut from pale copper to raspberry juice.

Considering the recent high inflation levels, I find it refreshing to see well-crafted, delicious pink wine at these price points. These wines are all exclusively imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct, which allows distributors to get these wines direct from the wineries and keeps the prices very reasonable. Whoever they have selecting Italian rosato wines clearly knows what they’re doing, as I found this to be an impressive and diverse portfolio. If you’re looking to replenish some of your rosé stash, check your local market for some of these wines.

This week’s selections were received as samples and tasted single blind.

2021 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Rondinella Rosato "Scaia” - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
SRP: $15
Medium copper color. The aromas boast a lovely mix of sea salt, white pepper and crushed rocks along with raspberries and white cherries, some honeysuckle and mint. The palate has a plush texture with crisp acidity, along with raspberry, cherry and crunchy McIntosh apple fruit. The wildflower, breezy open meadow and honeysuckle tones are lively and fresh, and there’s a nice mineral and green herbal undertone. A bright, zippy, floral style with a lot of value. Made from all Rondinella in the Mezzane di Sotto commune of Valpolicella. (89 points)

2021 Garofoli Montepulciano Rosato “Komaros” - Italy, Marche, Marche IGT
SRP: $14
Light strawberry color. The nose pops with a pleasant mix of raspberries, limes and peaches, topped in white and yellow flowers and cool notes of mint and verbena. Punchy texture, lively acidity, this has a pleasant briny element to accent the ripe watermelon, kiwi and white peach fruit. Notes of chalk dust, celery seed and mint add a spicy kick to this fresh, juicy rosato. All Montepulciano from clay soil vineyards in Cònero. (90 points)

2021 Masseria Li Veli Negroamaro Rosato “Torrerose” - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $15
Pale copper color. A great combination of juicy strawberries, red apples, along with floral perfume, chalk dust, and a mix of spicy, herbal and floral elements that blend well together. Medium-bodied with pleasant creaminess that accents the bright acidity well, and the watermelon, strawberry and white cherry fruit is highly delicious. The complex mix of non-fruit elements is exciting: white pepper, mint, cucumber slices, crushed sea shells. This has finesse and gluggability in equal parts. Negroamaro from clay and limestone soils in the Brindisi province. (90 points)

2021 Masseria Li Veli Susumaniello Rosato “Askos” - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT
SRP: $23
Medium copper color. An explosion of peaches and cantaloupe on the nose, drizzled with lime, along with and interesting mix of honeysuckle, cucumber slices, whipped cream and honey. The palate shows creamy texture and lively acidity, with a range of juicy fruit (lime, strawberry, cantaloupe and white peach). Some flinty, chalky, green herbal tones mix well with creamier, honeyed elements. Juicy but fresh, balanced and fun. Susumaniello grapes from clay and limestone soils in Brindisi. (89 points)

2021 Fattoria La Valentina Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo
SRP: $14
A deep strawberry color. The nose shows a delightful mix of pomegranate, watermelon and cherry fruit, along with daisies, white pepper and honey, a ripe but nuanced appeal. The palate is packed with juicy deliciousness and creamy texture (flavors of white peach, cherry, strawberry and pomegranate) but also balanced with crisp acidity. Notes of yellow and white flowers, clove, some spicy tones, herbal tea and honey. Delicious and ripe but nuanced and complex. A lot going on here, and tons of value. Cerasuolo grapes from clay soils in the Pescara province. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Wine Reviews: International grab bag

This week’s report encompasses a range of wines that speak to diversity and value.

Oregon Pinot fans are surely aware of Willakenzie, which formed in 1991 and boasts a 420-acre estate in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Five years ago, Erik Kramer joined as winemaker, continuing on the Pinot legacy but branching out into Chardonnay as well.

I’ve known Mendoza’s Trapiche mostly for their widely-available and inexpensive Malbec, but they’ve got some gems in their portfolio as well. Take the Terroir Series, three single-vineyard Malbecs that offer nuance, depth and distinction at a very reasonable price. From vines all planted above 3,000 feet, winemaker Sergio Case is doing something special with these wines. Age-worthy and packed with value, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a few of these apiece and forget about them in the cellar for a few election cycles.

For these hot, humid days, I also have some Cavas from Bella Conchi that offer a lot of fun without breaking the bank. And one rosé from Napa’s Smith-Madrone – only the third time they’ve made this one, but it really rocks.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, while the Trapiche wines were tasted single blind.

2017 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Ambrosia - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Gualtallary
SRP: $40
Dark purple color. Saucy but tart nose of red and black currants and cherries, along with mesquite, chewing tobacco, some sage, violet petals, and rich, loamy soil. The palate is precise and focused with dusty tannins and lively acidity. The black cherry and currant fruit is juicy but tangy, and topped in dustings of mesquite, tobacco, tar, leather, campfire, hints of mushroom and forest floor. There’s this stony, mineral essence that lingers long on the finish. Complex but vibrant, this is showing great right now but will do well with three-to-five in the cellar. From Gualtallary vines planted at 4,200 feet. (92 points)

2017 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Orellana - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, La Consulta
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. Ooh this nose is lovely! I get dark plums, black cherries, with these deep, stony, rocky, earthy tones (graphite, smashed rocks, paved road, potting soil), with violet and pepper nuances. The palate is grippy and well-structured with vibrant, lip-smacking acidity – the balance is on point. Tart black currant and blackberry fruit blends well with notes of tar, campfire, potting soil, roasted red pepper, anise and leather. I also get nuanced tones of coffee and mocha and a deep mineral presence throughout. A stony but bright finish. Wow, I’d love to see this in five years, but it’s so expressive young, too. From 62-year-old La Consulta vines at 3,250 feet, aged 18 months in French oak and a year in bottle. (93 points)

2018 Trapiche Malbec Terroir Series Finca Coletto - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Tupungato
SRP: $40
Deep purple color. So suave and inviting on the nose, with fig paste and plum sauce, doused in violets, clay and potting soil, some cocoa, anise and pencil shavings. Structured so well, grippy but refined tannins, balanced with crisp acidity. Tangy but deep plums, with figs and cranberry relish – interesting mix of fruit – backed up with complexities of violet and clove potpourri, tilled soil, graphite, minerals. This needs time to coax out the savory nuances packed in here, and this will age so nicely. Long, zippy, fresh, spicy finish. Aged 18 months in French oak and 12 months in bottle. From 57-year-old vines at El Peral, 3,700 feet. (92 points)

2019 WillaKenzie Estate Chardonnay Estate Cuvée - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $75
Medium yellow color. The aromas are so fresh, with kiwi, yellow apples, topped in chalk, stony minerals, saline, some bread crumbs and honey. The palate is full of precise acidity and deep texture, with flavors of lemons and limes and crunchy yellow apples. Some floral perfume and saline tones blend well with biscuits, bread dough and some honey. A very clear and focused Chardonnay that should age nicely. Really surprising and delicious stuff. (92 points)

2018 WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton
SRP: $50
Medium ruby color. The aromas are so juicy and fresh, with raspberries and fresh cherries, along with rhubarb and cola, rose petals and some earthy, clay tones. The palate shows suave tannins and crisp acidity, with tangy, fresh raspberries, cherries and red plums. The fruit is blended well with notes of rose petals, pepper, cola, some tobacco. Lots to unpack with air and time; this is delightful. (91 points)

2018 WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Noir Emery - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
SRP: $75
Deep ruby color. Beautiful nose of tangy strawberries with warm raspberry jam, topped in complex tones of mint, pepper, anise, rhubarb, just a lot going on here. The tannins are chalky but structured, balanced nicely with zippy acidity, and the red cherry and strawberry fruit is juicy and fresh. The complexities of black tea, pepper, sage, oregano, cola and rhubarb go on and on and offer a lot to contemplate and enjoy. Pretty, balanced, with a very long finish. This could use at least two or three years, but what a beaut. (93 points)

2021 Smith-Madrone Rosé - USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $30
Deep watermelon color. Juicy strawberry aromas, watermelon, lemon, topped in a complex mix of roses and daisies, honeysuckle, saline and mint – smells so delightful. The palate sports juicy texture with vibrant acidity, and the balance between the depth and freshness is great. Watermelon, red apple peel and ripe pear fruit mixes with rose petals and honeysuckle. Air and warmth bring out notes of sea salt, chalk, white pepper and oregano add complexity. The nuance and balance are delightful. Cabernet Franc with 33% Merlot. Awesome value. (92 points)

N.V. Bella Conchi Cava Brut Reserva - Spain, Cava
SRP: $17
Light yellow color. The nose is bright and zesty with yellow apples, limes, tones of floral perfume and chalk dust. The palate is zippy and brisk with limes, tart apricot and yellow apples. Light bubbles and a chalky, talc-infused frame mixes with white and yellow flowers and slight biscuit tones. A lighter style but a lot going on as well, and solid value. (87 points)

N.V. Bella Conchi Cava Brut Rosé - Spain, Cava
SRP: $16
Bright watermelon color. Nose of red apple peel, tar cranberry, with floral perfume, crushed sweet tarts and hints of white pepper. Crisp and zippy on the palate with a tart, crunchy feel to the fruit (raspberry, red apple peel). Notes of chalk, limestone, sliced cucumber and some mint add complexity. A racy, fun appeal. (86 points)

N.V. Bella Conchi Cava Brut Seleccion - Spain, Cava
SRP: $17
Medium yellow color. Aromas of crisp green and yellow apples, with some hay, saline and crushed limestone – a lemony, fresh appeal. Nice textural depth on the palate, with bright acidity. Green apple and papaya fruit mixes with yellow flowers, fresh basil, cucumber slices and limestone elements. Lots going on here, with light biscuit dough on the finish. (88 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

California’s Lobo Wines and Hawk and Horse

I’m back to California this week with two producers who have some delightful new releases worth sharing.

I’ve been a fan of Lake County’s Hawk and Horse for years, so I was excited to taste their 2019 offerings. Especially considering the winery didn’t produce any wines in 2018 due to wildfires. Luckily, they’re back to form with their consistent, small-lot Bordeaux reds, which are sourced from the winery’s 18-acre estate vineyard, sitting at 1,800 to 2,000 feet with some steep slopes. The rocky, red volcanic soil and terroir here offer a signature fresh acidity that complements the dark fruit and pronounces spice tones very well. If you haven’t ventured far into Lake County wines, this is a great biodynamic producer to get to know.

Earlier this year, I tasted Napa’s Lobo Wines for the first time, and I’m back to check out their new 2019 vintage releases. I’m finding a lot of consistency in quality and deliciousness from this producer. Napa wines are never cheap, but this producer really offers a lot of interesting wines with fun flavors and styles for very reasonable prices.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2019 Lobo Wines Pinot Noir Wulff Vineyards – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. The nose shows a nice mix of sweet plums and black cherries along with tart red currants and cranberry relish, along with savory spices, rose potpourri, some clay and potting soil elements – a lot going on. Suave, full but fresh on the palate with smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with flavors of tart cranberry relish and juicy red cherries. Tones of cinnamon, rose hips, rhubarb, clay, spicy pepper. Very pretty, nuanced, should show a lot of exciting development the next three to five years. (91 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Wulff Vineyards – USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
SRP: $105
Deep purple color. Ooh, such a deep and saucy nose, with a compote of plums, blackberry, and complex tones of mocha, spiced black tea, gravelly earth and warm, sun-roasted herbs. The palate is full but vibrant with grippy but chewy tannins and lively acidity, with bold but tart blackberry, currant and plum fruit. Notes of earth, tar, chewing tobacco, they add complexity and depth, nuanced cedar and mocha elements. This will age wonderfully. (93 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Merlot Wulff Vineyards – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant purple color. Aromas of cherries and tart currants, plum sauce, with violets and graphite, along with tilled soil, coffee grounds – a lot going on here. The palate shows suave tannins, moderate acidity, a velvety and balanced appeal here. Tangy black and red currant fruit mixed with complexities of black tea, pepper, rosemary and thyme. Intriguing stuff that should age nicely for a solid bunch of years to come. (91 points)

2019 Lobo Wines Howl Wulff Vineyards – USA, California, Napa Valley
SRP: $70
Vibrant purple color. Smells delightful, with plum and black cherry compote, so spicy and fun, with pepper, paprika, campfire and mesquite. The palate is full with a nice grip, smooth edges to the tannins, buttressed by vibrant acidity, well-balanced. The plum and tart blueberry fruit is delicious, with notes of tar, anise, mesquite, violets. There are some stony, mineral and earth tones to spare. Love the freshness – and this will age nicely. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. (92 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petit Verdot – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Dark purple color. A deep core of roasted figs, plum sauce, along with charcoal, graphite, tilled soil, coffee grounds, violets – needs air to coax out the depths. The palate shows a solid core of roasted figs and currant paste, grippy tannins, moderate acidity, impressive balance and complexity. Cool mix of spicy and refreshing elements, and I get a lot of mesquite, tar, graphite, roasted red peppers and gravelly earth. A long-ager for sure. Don’t be scared of PV – this is delicious stuff! All Petit Verdot aged in 100% French oak. (91 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Petite Sirah – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose shows a nice mix of tangy plums and blueberries, with spicy pepper, anise, some coffee, toffee and mocha. Nice grip on the palate but the tannins have these suave edges and the acidity is really nice, balancing out the deep plum and currant fruit. Notes of black olive, tar, mocha, black pepper and bell pepper add complexity, and I love the deep, earthy, mineral and stony vibes in here. There’s a ton of freshness in here for a Petite Sirah. This puppy will age wonderfully. All PS aged in all French oak. (91 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $75
Medium purple color. Deep but tart aromas of blueberry and black cherries, with complex, deep and spicy tones: tar, mocha, sage, sweet red pepper, black pepper and balsamic glaze. The palate is full but smooth and, like the others, this wine’s acidity is really nice. Tangy plums and juicy black currant fruit blends well with leather, paprika, black pepper, spicy tobacco, mint. A lot going on, and I’d like to see this in five or six years. Cab Sauv with 2% Petit Verdot, aged in 100% French oak. (92 points)

2019 Hawk and Horse Vineyards Cabernet Franc – USA, California, North Coast, Red Hills Lake County
SRP: $65
Deep purple color. The nose sports mulled cherries and deep currant fruit, with a spicy mix of anise, black pepper, tar, leather and espresso. Full but fresh, this shows solid grip but smooth edges to the tannins and moderate acidity. The fig paste and cranberry relish fruit is delicious, and it’s backed up with tar, anise, cocoa, sweet bell pepper, chewing tobacco and some black olive. Really fun and lively but also pretty, complex and age-worthy. All Cab Franc aged in 100% French oak. (91 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.