Tuesday, May 29, 2018

Summer Sipping Wines Under $20

It’s not officially summer just yet, but it sure feels like it here on the East Coast. And it’s Memorial Day weekend, which means I’ll be grilling, rain or shine. I have been receiving a lot of budget- and summer-friendly wines of late that I wanted to share, so I grouped them together into this report based on several factors.  

Price: I think of summer sippers as those $20 and under bottles that you can pour generously with friends on a summer day. Easy-drinking aesthetic: These are wines that stylistically jive with a picnic, a pool, patio, or beach, wines that don’t require aging, decanting, or much serious thought, yet still provide deliciousness and pleasure. Availability: Most of these wines (some more than others) are quite widely available in markets around the country.  

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.  

White 


2017 Trivento Torrontés White Orchid Reserve - Argentina, Mendoza
SRP: $11
Light yellow color. Wow, what an explosive white peach, lychee and guava nectar on the nose, with white flowers. Juicy texture, refreshing acidity, dry and fresh but the fruit is tropical and nectary, with guava, lychee, and ripe white peaches. Notes of honeysuckle, dandelion and other wild flowers. Quite nice for the price. (86 points)  


2017 Concha y Toro Sauvignon Blanc Casillero del Diablo Reserva - Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $12
Pale lemon color. Aromas burst with grapefruit and limes, along with spicy white pepper and sliced jalapenos. Plump white peach fruit, pineapple, limes, a bright white flower and daisy note, along with some whipped honey and some spicy white pepper and cut floral stem notes. Friendly, accessible stuff, and a good value. (85 points) 


2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Regaleali Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $11
Lemon colored with aromas of peaches, pineapples, yellow flowers and honey. Crisp throughout but plump with lots of tropical fruit (pineapple, cantaloupe, green melon, drizzled with lime). I get notes of spicy nettles and white pepper, along with some honeyed white tea. Pretty, zesty, crowd-pleasing, this would be a great summer or sushi white, wonderful value here. A blend of Inzolia, Grecanico and Catarratto. (87 points) 


2017 Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $18
Pale yellow color. Super peach aromas with guava, limes, notes of dusty limestone and white pepper. Textural depth on the palate is quite nice, crisp but fleshy, with tart lines, pineapples and white peach fruit, generous but tangy. Some stone mineral notes, fresh laundry, and white pepper elements make this a crisp, easy-drinking but solidly complex Pinot Grigio. (88 points) 


2017 Long Shadows Wineries Riesling Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Pale lemon color. Aromas of lemon peel, nectarine, white peach, with a salty, floral perfume combination. Plump texture but refreshing acidity, there’s a nice mixture of tart lemon/lime peel notes with a richer pineapple and mango. Notes of honey, floral potpourri and sea salt. Not too deep, but a perfect dry picnic Riesling that should please a lot of palates. (87 points)


2017 Long Shadows Wineries Pinot Gris Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $14
Light gold color. Nose of daisies, honeysuckle and floral perfume with ripe peaches and pears. Zesty, medium-bodied, a light and fresh appeal with peaches and pineapple flavors. Notes of orange blossoms and lilies. Fun, fresh, fruity, crowd-pleasing stuff. (86 points) 

Rosé 


2017 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Regaleali Rosé - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
SRP: $15
Deep copper color. Nose of nectarines, peaches, apricots, lots of blossoms and spiced white tea, a sea salt note. Punchy and juicy but tangy on the palate with crisp, salty, oceanic influences throughout. Juicy nectarines, blood orange, yellow plums, along with notes of roses and spiced tea. This is delicious rose of Nerello Mascalese, and a total steal at this price. (89 points)

2017 Chronic Cellars Pink Pedals - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $15
Rick pink color. Nose shows strawberry jam, watermelon candies, roses, plump and rich on the nose. Rich texture, a juicy and forward pink with watermelon and cherries and raspberries. Notes of roses and cinnamon candies. Forward, punchy style, but well-made and fun. Grenache with 13% Syrah. (86 points) 

Red 


2016 Bodega Amalaya Malbec - Argentina, Salta
SRP: $16
Rich purple color. Aromas are plummy and full of blackberry, along with mocha, incense cones, charcoal and scorched earth. Medium+ bodied with smooth tannins and medium acidity. Tart plums and black currants mix nicely with roasted coffee, rocky soil, notes of cedar and vanilla. Fun stuff but it shows some moderate complexity. Includes 10% Tannat and 5% Petit Verdot. (88 points) 


2016 Peter Zemmer Pinot Nero Rolhüt - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
SRP: $18
Light ruby color. Fresh and vibrant aromas of red cherries, strawberries, rose petals, white pepper, spicy herbs. Medium-bodied, fleshy tannins a crisp and chilled approach with strawberries and raspberries, backed up by notes of spiced tea, rose petals and rhubarb. Brisk and fun but quite a bit going on here, too. (88 points) 


2015 Steele Wines Writer's Block Grenache - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Medium ruby color. Aromas of juicy cherries, raspberries and plums along with smoky herbs, rose petals, red apple peel, and cinnamon spice. Medium+ bodied with easy tannins and medium acidity, this is an accessible wine, but not simple. Roasted herbs, tobacco, roses, coffee, this is easy-drinking and fun but shows complexity. All Grenache aged 11 months in French and Hungarian oak, 15% new. (88 points)

2015 Steele Wines Writer's Block Syrah - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Deep ruby, light purple color. A burst of smoky mesquite, black pepper and earth on the nose, along with tart black currants and plums. Full-bodied but fresh with lively acidity and dusty tannins, all woven together nicely. Black cherries and blackberry, laced with cocoa, mesquite, black pepper and violets. Not super deep, but — wow! — this Syrah packs a lot for the price. Sourced from the Cana Springs Vineyard on an eastern slope of the Mayacamas, this wine sees 12 months in 15% new French and Hungarian oak. (89 points) 


2015 Steele Wines Writer's Block Cabernet Sauvignon - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Light purple color. Nose shows crushed currants, tangy plums, along with eucalyptus, tobacco, cedar — lovely aromas. Medium-bodied with surprisingly structured tannins and medium acidity, the wine shows flesh and grip. Plums and currants mixed with tobacco, eucalyptus, violet petals, scorched earth and cocoa. So good for the money, and this can actually age for a few years. Lovely. Sourced from two vineyards in the Clear Lake AVA, and one in Red Hills. (89 points) 


2016 Long Shadows Wineries Nine Hats Red - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Rich purple color. Nose of plums, roasted currants, blackberry jam, some smoke oak, vanilla, coffee. Soft tannins on the palate, medium-bodied, medium acid. Silky and chewy with plums, black cherries and blackberries. Cocoa, cedar, earth and anise. Sweet fruit but fun stuff. Cabernet with 25% apiece of Merlot and Syrah. (85 points) 


2016 Long Shadows Wineries Cabernet Sauvignon Nine Hats - Washington, Columbia Valley
SRP: $20
Bright purple. Tangy red and black currants and cherries with sweet coffee, cocoa powder and cola aromas. Plush and juicy on the palate with medium-soft tannins and medium acidity. Chewy black cherry and blueberry fruit, with coffee grounds, cocoa powder and toasty oak. Easy-drinking, more complex than a lot of Cabs at this price point. Includes some Syrah, Petit Verdot and Merlot. (87 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, May 26, 2018

Wine Reviews: California White Wines for Summertime

Well, I never go too long without another batch of new releases from California. I’ve been receiving all sorts of different California wines lately, and the white wines especially are piling up. It’s been hot and humid here on the East Coast, and a lot of fresh 2017s are headed out to consumers, so I’m stoked to offer up some new releases that will get you through the heat.

Sure, there are plenty of uninspiring California Sauvignon Blancs, but I didn’t find any here — just some serious wines and distinct styles. Paso Robles offers up a few strikingly crisp white wines, and it continues a long run of exciting white wines I’ve tasted from Paso over the past year or so. A killer Kerner from Lodi (California’s only varietal Kerner) makes a serious impression, as does the new vintage of one of my favorite California Rieslings, Smith-Madrone’s Spring Mountain. Lastly, a few Chardonnays round out this report.


Maybe I got lucky with these samples (which I tasted sighted), but I couldn’t find a mediocre wine in the lot. 


2017 Lucas & Lewellen Sauvignon Blanc - California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $18
Medium lemon color. Aromas burst with white peach, lime and grapefruit, along with yellow flower petals and cut floral stems. Crisp and zesty on the palate but moderately creamy texture. Bright lemon, grapefruit and white peach fruit, mixed with dandelion, white pepper and lemongrass. Crisp and clean and Spring-y. Includes 10% Viognier. (87 points) 


2016 Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc - California, Sonoma County, Chalk Hill
SRP: $33
Light yellow color. Nose boasts peaches, green and yellow apples, with honeysuckle, lilies, crushed limestone and river rocks. Zesty on the palate with medium/full body and plush texture as well, with clean, crisp, mineral elements. Sea salt, chives, lemon grass, along with some chalk dust and white flowers. Pure, vibrant, pleasant Sauv Blanc. (89 points) 


2017 Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $25
A wonderful follow-up to the exceptional 2016 vintage, this light gold-colored wine bursts with aromas of papaya, lime, apricot, sea salt, lemon verbena. A creamy rich texture (14.6% alcohol), yet the acidity keeps it lip-smacking. Pineapple, juicy white peach, drizzled with limes. Notes of dried honey, white pepper, mint, with elements of minerals and raw almond. Pretty, complex, balanced Napa Sauvignon Blanc that delivers for the price. Includes a bit of Sémillon and Sauvignon Vert. (90 points)


2017 Rombauer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $24
Lively yellow color. Aromas of limes, grapefruit, white peach, on top of mint and honeysuckle. Plush and juicy texture, zesty acid throughout, flavors of peaches, grapefruit and lime. Notes of cucumber slices, white pepper, lilies, mix with deeper notes of whipped honey. Balanced, easy-going, summer-friendly wine, but it sports seriously complexity as well, and offers a lot for the price. (89 points) 


2016 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $22
Light yellow color. Smells bright and lively with lemon and sea salt and white pepper, but also notes of pineapple and honey. Full-bodied and creamy texture to the palate, but the acidity is bright and crisp. Yellow apples, quince, lemon curd, the fruit is mixed with white pepper, oregano, salted almond, honey and seashells. Rich but nuanced, this is always a reliably good Napa Sauv Blanc, but 2016 is something special. Includes Semillon, this wine is all barrel fermented and aged six months in French oak. (89 points) 


2017 FEL Pinot Gris - California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Bursts with aromas of pineapples, peaches, limes, white flowers and honey. Rich textural depth but crisp throughout. Nectarine, peaches, green melon rind, limes, topped with salted almond, floral perfume, cut flower stems, sliced cucumber. Fresh, lovely, seems like a perfect sushi wine to me. (88 points)  


2017 J. Dusi Pinot Grigio - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $24
Pale straw color. Aromas of peaches, limes, nectarines, with honeysuckle and clover. Tart acid on a medium-bodied frame, this PG has a steely and salty appeal with tart green apples
and nectarine. Floral-spice notes, chalkboard, sea salt, this is so fresh (begs for oysters) but shows some impressive depth, too. This wine is not what you might be thinking – give it a shot. (88 points)

2015 Smith-Madrone Riesling - California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $32
Light yellow. Aromas of which peaches, salted limes, chalk dust, white tea and fresh tennis balls. On the palate this is juicy and zesty with live-wire acidity that kicks off the wine and finishes it. Gorgeous peaches, nectarines and limes, with complex minerals, ocean rocks, mountain streams. Lip-smacking stuff that leaves the palate salivating. Another great vintage of this Riesling, and t will surely age quite nicely for at least a decade. (91 points)

2015 Robert Mondavi Winery Chardonnay - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $24
Medium yellow color. Aromas of green and yellow pears, with white flowers and chalk contrasting against honey, nougat and cinnamon notes. Juicy palate with plump texture but refreshing acidity. Crisp green apple with richer bruised pear and glazed apricot. Notes of toasted almond, honey and cinnamon mix well with bright flowers. Classic Napa chard for the price, and the 2015 is lovely. Mostly barrel fermented in French oak (16% new) and aged nine months on the lees. (90 points)


2016 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Jackson Estate - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $32
Rich yellow color. Aromas of almonds, honey, bruised apple, along with sea breeze and white flowers. Rich texture and it’s creamy and bold but also fresh acidity. Bruised apple, lemon curd, yellow pears, along with flavors of almond cake, cinnamon. Underlying notes of minerals, sea salt and ocean breeze. Lovely, rich, nuanced. Aged 10 months in 40% new French oak. (89 points)


2016 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Jackson Estate Camelot Highlands - California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $38
Bright gold color. Bright aromas of sea salt, almond, lots of ocean breeze, along with rich elements of toasted biscuits and toffee. Brisk acidity on the palate aligns with a rich texture, all balanced nicely. Lemon curd, bruised apple, pineapple upside down cake, along with toffee, almond, toasted biscuits, but there’s also a streak of chalk and seashells. Rich but lively, too, there is a lot going on here! Fermented and aged in 41% new French oak. (90 points) 


2016 Sidebar Cellars Kerner - California, Central Valley, Lodi Mokelumne River
SRP: $25
Bright yellow color. Peaches and dried mango, honey, some olive oil and spicy herbal elements as well. On the palate, the acidity is pristine, and it’s balanced wonderfully with a rich texture – but, wow that acidity carries this wine from start to finish. Lemon, white peach, yellow plums, mixed with dried white flowers, wild clover, honeysuckle, and a salty-mineral element that is delicious. Very impressive stuff. (91 points) 


2016 Steele Wines Writer's Block Roussanne - California, North Coast, Lake County
SRP: $18
Light gold color. Bright aromas of apricot, nectarine, lime, a brighter aromatic approach than I usually get from this grape, but also some nougat, honeyed tea, chalk dust elements. Rich texture on the palate, this is a creamy but zesty and crisp wine. Apricots, green apples and pears, nectarine, topped in raw almond, honey, chalk dust and white tea. Delicious but also complex and a steal at this price. The freshness of this wine is crazy when compared with so many honeyed, oily California Roussannes (many of which I love), but this is a very crisp example. Sourced exclusively from Las Lomas vineyard, which sits in sandy soils at 1,500+ feet elevation. The wine is aged nine months in oak, 20% new. (90 points)


2017 Opolo Roussanne - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $18
Bright lemon color. Surprising bright aromas of chalk, ocean breeze, lemons, with some richer pineapple and cantaloupe notes. Pleasantly medium-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with moderating acidity, this isn’t your typical fat Roussanne. Lots of pineapple, apricot, white peach, drizzled with lime, with notes of tropical flowers and honeyed tea. Rich in flavors but lively in style. (88 points)


2017 Pomar Junction Vineyard Sidetrack - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles, El Pomar District
SRP: $15
Straw colored. A burst of wildflowers and clover on the nose, along with papaya, lime, guava, and notes of crushed shells. Full-bodied (14.2%) with a waxy textural dynamic underlined by moderate acidity. Flavors of pineapple, papaya, drizzled with lime and complex notes of chalk dust, limestone sea rocks, lemon verbena, spiced tea. I was shocked to see the retail price; this is bold but complex and nuanced. A blend of Viognier, 35% Roussanne and 15% Grenache Blanc. (90 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Friday, May 25, 2018

Copain's Syrahs are Aging Wonderfully

Copain was one of the first California producers I really geeked out on. My first taste was a 2006 Syrah from the famed Brosseau Vineyard, which I tasted in 2009, and I was sold immediately. I bought a case of aged Syrahs (2003-2006) from a friend soon after, and I was blown away by how well these wines were aging. The fruit lasted long, but the non-fruit complexity (in the form of olive brine, black pepper, carnitas, bacon fat) really spoke to my palate. 

I visited the Sonoma winery a few times since, and have bought up Copain wines wherever I find them. Wells Guthrie is the man behind Copain, who founded the winery in 1999. After studying with world-famous Rhone winemaker Michel Chapoutier in 1996, Wells decided to chase his love of Rhone wines in California. He describes himself as a “California winemaker with a European sensibility,” and I think that holds up in his wines. 

While single-vineyard Syrah is what drew me in (and that’s still a huge part of Copain’s vision), Wells crafts some stellar wines from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau as well.
In 2016, California heavyweight Jackson Family purchased Copain for an undisclosed sum, a purchase that included the winery and tasting room as well. Wells stuck around, however, and Jackson Family stated their intention of maintaining the style of the brand. While I’ve only tasted a few wines made since the sale, that seems to be the case. 

I gathered a few Copain-loving friends recently and decided to open older bottles to see how they were holding up. Not a bad wine in the lot, but there were definitely some stunners. It’s great to see a winery I fell for almost a decade ago still going strong. 

My notes on the wines I tasted are below. 


2010 Copain Chardonnay Brosseau Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Chalone
Wow, this is exceptional and surprising. Such lively aromas, no hints of oxidation or exhaustion here at all, just lemon curd and crushed limestone. Precise acidity through and though, yet the plush texture is awesome. Minerals and flowers and honeycomb accentuate the juicy lemon and yellow pear fruit. Wow, still going strong, and a wonderful showing. This comes from a fascinating site at 1,600 feet in the Chalone appellation with rare combo of limestone and granite soils. (93 points)

2003 Copain Syrah Cailloux & Coccinelle - Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Whoa, so smoky and bacony on the nose, and some menthol and mint elements, on top of saucy blueberries. Some volatile acidity on the palate, but not a lot, and its woven in well, and the tannins are quite soft. Tangy blueberries and blackberries, fruit still going, but the wine is just packed with olives and black peppercorns and bacon fat. Loving the smooth, savory aspects in this wine, but definitely at the end of its run. Still lovely, though! (93 points) 


2003 Copain Syrah Eaglepoint Ranch - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Aromas of blackberries, tart cherries, a lots of smoke and meat. Crisp acidity on the palate, plump texture and the blackberry fruit is still going. Notes of violets, smoke, olive brine, pepper, beef broth and roasted red pepper. Nice and tangy with a peppery finish. Still going! From a vineyard 1,800 feet above Ukiah Valley in Mendocino County. (92 points) 


2007 Copain Syrah Eaglepoint Ranch - California, North Coast, Mendocino County
Darker than the 2003 and more concentrated. Lots of blueberries, plum cake, loaded with violets and black pepper. Silky smooth, still structured though with some dusty tannins. Black cherry and blueberry fruit is alive and kicking, and I love the smoke, olive tapenade, gravelly earth and violet petal elements going on here. This really is a pretty Syrah in a beautiful place. (93 points)   

2005 Copain Syrah Madder Lake - California, North Coast, Lake County
Dark and plummy on the nose with violets and black olives. Surprising grip on the tannins, this is quite dense actually, but some fresh acidity. Black currants and rich black cherries, quite “purple” in its approach. Floral as well with potting soil and violets. One of the wines that needs more time, which I found surprising and interesting. A Lake County vineyard, in red volcanic soils, above the beautiful Clear Lake in Southern Lake County. (90 points) 


2006 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard - California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
Dark and fruity nose with rich plums and blackberries and a spicy/smoky element. Rich but bright on the palate with structured tannins, bright acidity, and I get a lot of tart currant and plum fruit. Charcoal, smoky bacon, roasted red pepper, coffee grounds, rich earth. On Day 2, this got even more expressive. Still time ahead, but this is very impressive. More put-together and prettier than a bottle of this I had in 2016. Lucky me! This site, north of Yorkville, is full of rocky soils and vines planted in a series of benches and hillsides at the base of Hawks Butte. (92 points) 


2009 Copain Syrah Brosseau Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Chalone
My wine of the night – just a stunner. Dark purple color and lots of rich but tangy black and blue fruit on the nose, along with a deep sense of violets and scorched earth. Fleshy and plump on the palate but structured tannins and refreshing acidity. Blackberry and blueberry fruit, laced with smoke, violets, anise, black pepper, and a pervasive sense of minerals and iron. Gorgeous stuff that has years to go. (94 points) 


2009 Copain Syrah James Berry Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
This was surprisingly closed down (compared to the others). Good stuff inside for sure, it just stayed tight the whole night, even Day 2 it wasn’t as expressive. Gobs of dark fruit on the nose. Structured tannins provide lots of grip, medium acidity. Dense black fruit, iron, smoke, graphite, pepper and violets. Young still, I’d let this sit for three or four years. Damn, Wells’ wine age for quite a while. Iconic Paso Robles vineyard, 10 miles from the ocean, clay over ancient seabed soils. (90 points)

Saturday, May 19, 2018

Exploring Alsace with Pinot Blanc, Gris and Noir


If I trace my love for wine all the way back, it starts in Alsace. I was living in the far southwestern corner of Germany, in boarding school for 11th and 12th grades, and Alsace was a quick trip. I made a few excursions into quaint villages there, scarfing down (and swooning over) the local food, hiking around steep hills —I was enthralled by the way vineyards carved their place into the hillsides, all over the place.

As I hiked, I noticed vineyards planted into what looked like pure rock, and there were so many different kinds of rocks and chunks of earth that changed from ridge to ridge. Each nook and cranny was different. After a hike, I walked into a bistro in a small village, ordered a bowl of French onion soup, and asked if the bartender had any wine from the huge vineyard that climbed up the steep hills above town. I spoke no French and he almost no English (there was much pointing and gesturing) but I was served a glass of white wine I understood came from the vineyard I had just hiked through.

My teenage mind was blown away at this concept. I don’t remember the wine, I think it was a Riesling, and I had no idea how to evaluate or appreciate it in any serious sense. But it was delicious. And, more importantly, it instilled in me a desire to find more about this relationship between specific places and their wines.

All this to say, to this day, I have a special appreciation for wines from Alsace. They continue to intrigue and excite me, so I’m always happy to review more of them. This week, I have a range of wines from Alsace, all hailing from the extended Pinot family (Noir, Gris, Blanc). Like a lot of wines from this region, they can be moderately priced, considering the high quality.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé - France, Alsace, Crémant d'Alsace
SRP: $22
Bright and floral aromas with grapefruit, peaches, red apple peel, spicy herbal notes. Zesty and crisp on the palate with lots of red apples, grapefruit, red apple peel, along with notes of spiced tea, white pepper and floral perfume. So good for the money, this is fresh and lively and crowd-pleasing. All Pinot Noir. (87 points)

2016 Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc - France, Alsace
SRP: $16
Pale yellow color. Nose of crushed shells, raw almond, honeysuckle, over peaches and apples. Rich texture but medium-body, brisk acid meets plump apricot and peach. Notes of salty seashells on a dry and crisp finish – a summer day, oysters and shellfish style Pinot Blanc. (87 points)

2013 Albert Boxler Pinot Blanc Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $28
Deep yellow color. Aromas are rich with honey and bruised apple, but also bright and lively with lemon verbena, chalk and minerals. Crisp acidity frames the wine nicely, while medium-bodied and honeyed texture adds depth. Peaches, apricot, lime, lemon, doused in minerals, chalk dust and smashed rocks. Deep, focused, yet airy and elegant at the same time. Some interesting cellar potential here. (90 points)

2013 Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve - France, Alsace
SRP: $26
Light yellow color. Aromas of apricot, papaya, drizzled with lime, topped with seashells and floral perfume. Medium-bodied on the palate, crisp and nervy style with a long streak of minerals and crushed shells. Dry but packed with fruit (papaya, pineapple, lime juice), with some white floral tones. Lovely, crisp but complex Pinot Gris that has a few years of aging potential for sure. (89 points)

2016 Emile Beyer Pinot Gris Tradition - France, Alsace
SRP: $20

Light gold color. Aromas of apricots, yellow plums, yellow raisins, rich with honey but also some bright white floral notes. Plump and rich on the palate but moderating acidity. Yellow plums, juicy apricots, laced with honey, cinnamon spiced tea, some crushed chalk and mineral tones clean out the finish. Rich texture and fruit but also clear and pretty. (88 points)

2016 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Cuvée Romanus - France, Alsace
SRP: $18
Pale yellow color. Plump aromas of peaches, nectarine, spiced white tea, honeysuckle, daisies. Rich and juicy fruit on the palate but fresh acidity, this shows peaches cantaloupe, nectarine, along with some floral, white pepper, mineral tones. Pleasant and easy to drink but sports solid complexity. (88 points)

2016 Domaine Osterag Pinot Noir Les Jardins - France, Alsace
SRP: $27
Interesting light purple color. Aromas of juicy black cherries and raspberries, a lovely spicy herbal and pepper element, with roses and violets and rhubarb. Bright and airy feel to this wine, even though the acidity is tart and the tannins show grip. The fruit is red, bright and delicious, and I love those classic Alsace earthy-spice elements (this one shows black tea, rhubarb, black pepper). I’d like to see how this shows in four to five years. (89 points)

2014 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Noir Les Princes Abbés - France, Alsace
SRP: $29
Medium ruby color. Aromas of tart cherries, strawberries, along with pickling spices, roses, spices tea, earthy-tobacco notes. Medium-bodied, dusty tannins, zippy acidity, it all lines up very well. Tart cherries, strawberries, red plums, laced with tobacco, sage, mushroom, pickle notes. I tasted this a year ago, and it’s developed nicely since then and should continue to do so. (89 points)

This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, May 12, 2018

Digging into Adam Lee's New Clarice Pinot Noirs


Credit: Robert Green Photography
California winemaker Adam Lee’s next chapter is just beginning. And things are looking good.

After 11 years, Adam and his wife, Dianna Novy Lee, sold their Siduri label to Jackson Family Wines in 2015. Adam agreed to stay on for three years, but he’s also been busy kicking off a different venture.

Named after his grandmother and inspiration, under the Clarice label Adam produces Pinot Noirs from two exquisite sites, Gary’s Vineyard and Rosella’s, both located in the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation of Central California. Having worked with both of these vineyards since their first crop (Gary’s in 1999 and Rosella’s in 2001), Adam knows these vines very well and counts the growers as his good friends. From these sites, he crafts harmonious and delicious wines.

With this new project, Adam is taking a different approach to the marketing and sales. Here’s how it works.
Clarice Family Club Members sign up for an annual subscription of $965 (broken into several payments over a few months to make it sting the bank account a bit less). Members get a case of Pinot in October, four bottles of each of Adam’s three wines: Gary’s Vineyard; Rosella’s Vineyard; and a Santa Lucia Highlands appellation wine that is blended from both Gary’s and Rosella’s Vineyards.

Adam also hopes to create something like a social media-savvy “extended wine family,” as he puts it. Members get special access to a portion of Clarice’s website, which will have plenty of wine-related content, and monthly articles from others in the wine business, who will address topics from label design to wine barrels to restaurant sales. There are also members-only Facebook and Instagram groups, where members can connect and share content.

“At Clarice Wine Company, I have decided that ‘selling wine’ isn’t what I like to do,” Adam says. “What I truly enjoy is the friendship, camaraderie, and sharing of knowledge and experiences that wine helps engender.”

Adam sent me barrel samples of the three Pinots he’ll be releasing to club members in October, and, I gotta say, they’re beautiful. Tasters of the finished wines are in for a treat.

He utilizes native yeast fermentation, and more than half of each wine comes from whole cluster fermentation. There’s plenty of juicy fruit, and a good amount of new oak, but the wines maintain a vibrant, lip-smacking style that reminds me of why I first fell for Adam’s Siduri Pinots almost a decade ago.


2017 Clarice Wine Company Pinot Noir- California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
Deep ruby color. Lovely aromas of chilled raspberries and strawberries, with rhubarb, roses, cola and wild herbs. Precise acidity and smooth tannins on the palate, balanced nicely with juicy fruit (raspberry, crisp strawberry, red cherries). I get complex elements of raspberry leaf, rose petal, rhubarb, along with some cola and coffee, all of it woven together so well. Crisp, lively, yet so yummy. A roughly even split between fruit from Gary’s and Rosella’s vineyards, the wine is aged in 36% new oak. (92 points IJB)


2017 Clarice Wine Company Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard- California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

Medium ruby color. Nose boasts bright cherries and plums, along with violets, spiced tea, rose hips, clove, cola, rich but airy aromas (somehow this makes sense when you smell it). Fresh and tingly acidity with suave tannins. Plump cherries, tart strawberries, crunchy plums, the pretty fruit is loaded with spiced tea, cola, coffee, earthy-loamy and mineral notes. Complex as hell, I can’t wait to see this wine when it’s finished, although it could use some time in bottle to come to its full potential. Aged in 77% new French oak. (94 points IJB)

2017 Clarice Wine Company Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard- California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
Rich ruby color. Smells of strawberries, raspberries, red apple peel, with sage, spicy oregano, sweet roses, deep but vibrant aromas here. Silky but structured on the palate with plush tannins and crisp acidity, the balance is wonderful. Juicy but tart fruit (dark cherries, gushing plums), along with notes of cola, sarsaparilla, earth and clove. So pretty and bright with gorgeous rich fruit. Aged in 77% new French oak. (93 points IJB)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.

Saturday, May 5, 2018

Wine Reviews: New Releases from Virginia

Having lived in the DC area for about a dozen years, I’ve been able to explore lots of wine country in Virginia, and I’ve seen quite a lot of change in that time. Not just the increase in the number of wineries and wines being produced (about 6.6 million bottles of Virginia wine was sold in 2016), but Virginia has seen increased consumer attention, newcomers making a scene, and benchmark producers continuing to excel.

I’m very much looking forward to tasting and reviewing the top 12 wines from the Virginia Governor’s Cup Awards soon (as I’ve done on this blog for the past three or four years), but, in the meantime, I’ve received a bunch of Virginia wine samples to highlight. Rosés, steely Chard, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, and more, diversity in Virginia wine is a beautiful thing.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.


2017 Veritas Vineyard Rosé - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $20
Medium watermelon color. Aromas of strawberries and white cherries, rose hips and roses, orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Medium-bodied on the palate with a plush and fruity appeal, raspberries and orange blossoms, honeysuckle. Floral and fruity, spicy and herbal, so fresh and lively but it sports significant depth. Lovely Virginia pink from Veritas. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. (88 points)


2017 Rosemont of Virginia Rosé - Virginia
SRP: $18
Light watermelon color. Aromas of sweet roses, rhubarb, watermelon and candied cherries. Plump fruit on the palate (watermelon, cherry, red apple) but bright and tangy acidity. Spicy white pepper, rhubarb, roses and watermelon rind notes add complexity. Juicy and fruity but zesty and spicy, too. A delicious, eye-opening dry rosé made from 100% Chambourcin. (88 points)


2016 Chatham Vineyards Church Creek Steel Chardonnay - Virginia, Eastern Virginia, Eastern Shore
SRP: $20
Pale lemon color. Well, it’s steely! Brisk, salty, sea breeze, crushed shells on the nose, with lemon/lime and clean laundry. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, crisp texture but lovely depth of flavors. Peaches, pineapple, drizzled with lime. I love the saline and crushed shells aspect here. Pure, crisp, crystalline Virginia Chardonnay, it begs for local oysters. (90 points) 


2016 Blenheim Vineyards Cabernet Franc - Virginia, Central Virginia, Monticello
SRP: $22
Light ruby color. So fresh and bright on the nose with lots of strawberries, red cherries, pomegranate, along with rose petals, white pepper and tilled soil. Crisp acidity and light tannins on the palate, this is a bright and fresh wine with flavors of red cherry and pomegranate. Dusty and earth with notes of rhubarb, sage and cinnamon. A great way to introduce yourself to good Virginia Cabernet Franc. Aged nine months in French, American and Hungarian oak. (89 points)


2015 Casanel Vineyards Petit Verdot - Virginia, Northern Virginia
SRP: $42
Light purple color. Spicy aromatic punch of black tea, clove, sage, cedar and coffee on top of sour cherries and tangy black currants. Grippy but fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity on the palate. Zippy currants and blackberries mix nicely with coffee, cedar, smoky charcoal and earth. Structured so well, yet it finishes fresh. Aging potential (5-8 years, easy) is evident. For me, this is another data point supporting the argument that Virginia Petit Verdot is an awesome thing. All Petit Verdot aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. (90 points)


2015 Rosemont of Virginia Merlot - Virginia
SRP: $21
Deep ruby color. Smells of plum cake, black currants, violets, but I also get some notes of beef jerky, charcoal and spiced coffee. Medium/full-bodied with smooth tannins and fresh acidity, balanced quite nicely. Plummy, full of dark currant, fig paste, the fruit is mixed with charcoal, violets, roses, bell pepper, beef broth. Delicious, lively, earthy, savory stuff. 100% Merlot aged 18 months in barrel, 1/3 new Virginia oak and the rest used French oak. (88 points)


2015 Rosemont of Virginia Kilravock - Virginia
SRP: $33
Deep ruby color. Aromas of red and black currants, some blueberry, violets, clove, coffee grounds. Full-bodied but smooth with velvety tannins and medium acidity. Black cherries and currants, fresh and tangy fruit, mixed with cocoa powder, roasted chestnut, loamy, earthy notes, violets. Juicy and fun appeal but surprising depth and length as well. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, aged in about 50% new oak (French and American) for 18 months. (89 points)


This post first appeared on the daily wine blog Terroirist.