Longtime readers may have seen me praise Oregon’s Troon Vineyard in the past. Well, here I am again to do it again.
I can’t help it – Troon just keeps putting out exciting wines. From old classics to an array of newer blends and styles in recent years, their across-the-board consistency has been pretty amazing. Based in the Applegate Valley of southern Oregon, Troon puts out are biodynamic wines with native yeasts and a fresh, spicy but focused appeal.
If your palate tends more toward the leaner side of the Syrah spectrum, and you’re happy with roasted, savory, spicy flavors, this trio of Troon Syrahs is definitely worth checking out. “Syrah may be the ideal variety for our site,” says winegrower Craig Camp. After tasting a lot of these wines over the years, it’s a convincing argument. These three wines offer a good view of their approach to this grape overall, and it was a joy tasting them together and parsing through the nuances. All three of them were aged 20 months in mature French oak.
The Druid’s Fluid wines are based on the traditional blends of the Cotes du Rhone, and deliver just what you’d hope for from their French counterparts: delicious fruit, some spicy accents, and lots of value. The Cotes du Kubli wines are blends from Troon’s Cowhorn Vineyard, and are called such because they’re sourced from the hills around the Kubli Bench, a plateau above the Applegate River. They’re consistently reliable and delicious expressions of Troon’s style.
And, while label aesthetics doesn’t affect what’s in the bottle, it still matters. And Troon has been revamping their design in different ways lately, and I think it’s paying off. From the flowy symbol design of the Druid’s Fluid to the detailed guidebook style drawings of their biodynamic preparations, the bottles really draw my attention. And then the juice itself overdelivers.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted, except for the three Syrahs, which I tasted single-blind.
2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid White – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. The nose sports this salty, floral, citrus-popping appeal with lemon, orange, peach, with some chalky, flinty tones. The palate has this crisp, nervy, salty vibe, which works well with the lemon, orange peel and kiwi fruit. The floral and herbal complexity is really something, with this minty, celery seed, saline, honeysuckle tones and this pervasive sense of mountain stream freshness and mineral nerviness. So fun, so good. (90 points)
2020 Troon Vineyard Druid’s Fluid Red – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Deep ruby color. Gamay-esque goodness on the nose, so floral and accessible, gushing with strawberries and cherries, along with rose petals, potting soil, clay and potpourri tones. Zesty and brisk acidity, with dusty tannins and a bright feel. Juicy strawberries, cherries and raspberries, laced with deep violets, sage, some pepper and light roast coffee. This wine is all about the mouthfeel and vibe, which is fresh, inviting and delightful. (90 points)
2020 Troon Vineyard Côtes du Kubli Blanc – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Rich yellow color. The nose shows deep, fascinating scents of orange marmalade, lemon curd, with notes of whipped honey, nougat and sea salt. Deep texture with gorgeous honeyed mouthfeel and moderate acidity. Orange and lemon peel, yellow apple and pineapple fruit, juicy but fresh and focused. Notes of seashells, raw almond, hay, honey. A rich wine but crystal clear and so fresh. Seems like a few years of age could do some good. 55% Roussanne, 25% Marsanne, 20% Viognier, only 12.6% alcohol. (92 points)
2019 Troon Vineyard Cotes du Kubli Rouge – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Vibrant purple color. Wow, so fresh on the nose with this chilled raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruit, along with these airy tones of flowers and crushed chalk, and spicier tones of pepper and mulling spices. Zesty and dusty on the palate with crisp acidity and a focused appeal. The red cherries, cranberry and raspberry fruit is lively and crisp, and mixed well with black pepper, violets, and complex leather and beefy tones. Wow this is gorgeous stuff. Unique, airy, lifted, yet deep and complex. 84% Syrah, 16% Grenache, 12.7% alcohol. (93 points)
2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Estate – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Ooh, so inviting on the nose with raspberries, strawberries and blueberries, mixed with violets, and a lot of spice (paprika, pepper, curry powder, bay leaf – so good). Crisp acidity, nicely structured with medium tannins and a deep but bright fruit profile (blueberry, strawberry and raspberry). The wine has this gorgeous floral, earthy, spicy appeal, with pepper, curry powder, a potpourri of dried wildflowers and clove. Pretty and alive with a mineral-laden finish. Could use at least a few years to show it’s best, but so delightful young, too. (91 points)
2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Siskiyou – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Beautiful ruby color. Freshness rules the aromas, with juicy cherries and strawberry tones, along with fascinating mix of pepper, pine tar, charcoal, violets and clove. On the palate, this shows crisp acidity and tannins that show a fine dusty grip. Delicious cherries and raspberries are mixed really well with elements of pepper, sage, warm clay, deep earth. Nuances of clove, tobacco and mineral round out the finish. It maintains this gravelly depth throughout – really delightful. From a cooler vineyard, named for the surrounding Siskiyou Mountains. (93 points IJB)
2019 Troon Vineyard Syrah Cowhorn Vineyard – USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Deep ruby color. On the nose, a nice kick of black pepper and roasted red pepper over top of the bright plum and juicy cherry fruit. Nice concentration on the palate with a moderate tannic backbone and bright acidity, which sets the stage for beautiful dark cherry and plum fruit. The savory depth is really something, with a host of pepper, braised meats, pepperoni, gravelly and loamy earth. An age-worthy wine but also so inviting and fresh, there’s a lot going on here. Fruit sourced from a cooler site, this is a fascinating Syrah that will age wonderfully for who knows how long. (93 points)
There are plenty of heralded wine regions I have yet to visit, far more than I will likely see in my lifetime. But Rioja is high on that list. One day I hope to visit the cellars of Lopez de Heredia and explore the larger region, but until then, wine offers that ability to travel through the senses.
For years, Rioja wines have consistently delivered for me, and I have so many fond memories of serving these wines to friends and family at gatherings, especially around the holidays and colder months. A few years back, I befriended a reddish-colored, malnourished alley cat, and helped her out over a long winter with a steady diet of canned tuna and chicken scraps. I named her Rioja.
Anyway, I recently tasted through some interesting wines from Rioja’s Bodegas Ramón Bilbao that are worth highlighting. The bodega’s namesake opened the winery in 1924. He passed away just five years later, leaving the bodega to his son Enrique. The company has grown and expanded over the decades, especially lately, and has spread out to make wines in Rueda and Rias Baixas. In Rioja today, they have more than 200 hectares of vineyards, and source grapes from some 900 more. Featured today is a solid lineup, from entry-level up to the flagship Mirto, whose first vintage was 1999. Across the board, these wines are very well done and worth checking out if you, like me, enjoy Rioja.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
2020 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rías Baixas – Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas
SRP: $19
Medium yellow color. Aromas show zesty lemon and crunchy green apples, with white flowers and chalk and a nice, deeper honeyed element. Zippy and crisp on the palate, this shows yellow apples, kiwi and lemons, along with sea salt, lemon verbena, white tea and chalky tones. A nice creamy factor gives it some depth. Fun, accessible Albarino. All stainless steel, this spends six months on the lees. (88 points)
2020 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Rosado – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $18
Medium copper color. So fresh on the nose with lemons and white peach mixed with nettle, white pepper, dandelion greens and talc. The palate is zippy and crisp with nice textural depth. Flavors of white cherries and red apple peel mix well with notes of dandelion, chalk, talc, mint and minerals. There’s a bright, nervy, shellfish-friendly appeal but some nice complexity and depth, too. A lot going on. 85% Garnacha, 15% Viura. (88 points)
2017 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Crianza – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $19
Vibrant ruby color. The nose shows spicy pepper and paprika, leathery, sage tones over top of juicy raspberry and red currant fruit. The palate shows tangy red and black cherries and currants on a frame of light tannins, livened by the acidity. Notes of red pepper flakes, leather, pepper and earth add complexity. It’s fun and fresh, but offers a good amount of depth, and a ton of food-friendly fun. 100% Tempranillo aged 14 months in American oak. (88 points)
2017 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Edición Limitada – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $27
Light purple color. The nose exudes black cherries and red currants, along with scorched earth, leather, all sorts of incense sticks, with tones of cocoa and coffee. Nice grip on the palate, solid tannins meet well with moderate acidity, with a nice core of tart, dark currants and cherries. All sorts of fallen leaves, earth, soy, incense and black licorice elemnts add complexity. Needs air and some time to unpack the intricate savory tones, but this is very well done for the price. All Tempranillo aged 15 months in new French oak. (90 points)
2015 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Reserva – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $27
Bright purple color. The nose shows deep cherries, plums and blackberries, with violets, warm clay and loamy earth, with sweet cocoa and sage tones – very pretty. Bright acidity gives this wine a lot of life, from start to finish, with nice tannic grip. Tangy cherry and plum fruit blends with complexities of cedar, sandalwood, clove, incense sticks and cigar box. Floral and earthy tones come out with air; this needs two to five years, then give it air and a nice roasted meat meal. Aged 20 months in American oak. (90 points)
2015 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Mirto – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $45
Bright purple color. Tangy cherries and dark plums on the nose, inviting yet deep and intricate with notes of rosemary, paprika, mint and bay leaf. There’s a deep core of red and black currant fruit, nice strong grip but no harsh edges, moderating acidity – everything is lined up so nicely. The complexity is really nice, with these tar, spiced tea, leather, clove and iron tones, but air opens up all sorts of stuff. Oaky tones aren’t overdone, and this is balanced, age-worthy and very, very pretty. Impressive stuff that Rioja lovers should seek out. (93 points)
2012 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Rioja Gran Reserva – Spain, Rioja
SRP: $39
Light purple color. The nose sports red cherries and some wild blackberry, with lovely tones of tilled soil, leather, tar, coffee and cedar. Really well-balanced on the palate with tangy acidity and suave but structured tannins. A juicy but tart mix of black cherries, laced with complex notes of leather, chewing tobacco, coffee grounds and cedar. Notes of bay leaf and mushroom broth come out with time. Vibrant and nuanced, fresh, refined already but needs a few years to show its best. 90% Tempranillo, the rest is Mazuelo and Graciano, aged 30 months in American oak. (91 points)
In autumn, California pinot noir just hits the spot for me. Especially when the weather finally gets proper cool out, and I’m cooking dishes like cassoulet and braised meats again. It all makes sense with a fresh, delicious, savory pinot.
For California pinot fans, Sanford needs an introduction like metalheads need a primer on Black Sabbath. C’mon, we’re talking about legends, here — the history, the Santa Rita Hills vineyards that yield some classic wine. And 2019 marks the first full vintage with winemaker Trey Fletcher at the helm. After crafting wines with Littorai and Bien Nacido Vineyards, Sanford’s pinot noir is in very good hands for the future.
Fort Ross Winery delivers two different takes on Sonoma Coast pinot. The freshness in these is delightful, and if you’re a fan of that crisp red fruit and spice-toned thing like me, these are worth checking out. And Sonoma-Cutrer offers up a delicious 2019 pinot, too.
Oh, and there’s some corresponding chardonnays in this report because, well, they always go together.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Pinot Noir
2020 Sanford Pinot Noir Rosé – USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $20
Pale copper color. The nose shows a mix of sea salt, rose petals, and white pepper with red apple, wild strawberry and raspberry – just a delightful aromatic display. The palate is zippy and fresh, a crisp and nervy feel, with bright tones of red apples and tart raspberries. There’s this flinty, salty, mineral vibe that tastes authentic and exciting, and there’s some complex floral and spice tones that linger on the finish. Really impressive stuff, a rose to sip over two days, or age, too – it has that complexity that deserves it. Crazy value. (91 points)
2019 Sanford Pinot Noir – USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $45
Vibrant ruby color. Fresh strawberries, cherries and raspberries on the nose, laced with notes of clay, rose petals, some sage, pepper and tobacco – lovely stuff. Crisp acidity greets the palate, with dusty tannins, a vibrant airy appeal, with juicy cherry and strawberry fruit. The complex tones of rose petals, tea and earth mix well with this minerality on the finish. Just an elegant and complex Pinot that shows Sanford continuing their stride. This should age beautifully for who \-knows-how-long, and also shows serious value A blend from Sanford & Benedict and La Rinconada Vineyards, aged 11 months in 25% new oak, 13.5% alcohol. (93 points)
2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. The nose shows juicy, deep plums and black cherries with a mix of savory tones and black pepper, mesquite-like goodness. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine shows smooth tannins and moderate acidity, with saucier fruit (raspberries and black cherries), but it still shows a tangy edge. Notes of tar, pepper, tobacco mix with nuanced tones of cola and rhubarb. Classic, fun, delicious stuff that shows complexity as well – deserves some air or some time. Tank-fermented and aged 11 months in 1/3 new French oak. (90 points)
2019 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea Slopes – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $35
Juicy ruby color. Smells of fresh cherries, strawberries and cranberries, along with smooth, subtle vibes of rose petals and earth. Plush and smooth on the palate with moderate acidity and deep strawberry and cherry fruit, which is all nicely balanced. The savory elements of pepper, basil and rhubarb blend well with cola and light coffee. Accessible and moderately-priced but this wine backs it up with depth and complexity. Aged 18 months 10% new French oak, 13.5% alcohol. (90 points)
2018 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross – Seaview
SRP: $52
Dark ruby color. Suave but fresh on the nose with black cherries, raspberries, laced with coffee, bay leaf, loamy earth and clay – really inviting stuff. Smooth tannins and fresh acid on a medium-bodied frame sets a good stage for the chilled cherry fruit. Complex notes of rhubarb, bay leaf, pepper, rose potpourri, a lot of air brings out all sorts of nuance. This will benefit from a few years in the cellar and accompany many a dish very well. Aged 10 months in 30% new French oak. (91 points)
Chardonnay
2019 Sanford Chardonnay – USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
SRP: $40
Light yellow color. Lively aromas with lemon and yellow apples, all sorts of nuances of chalk, crushed shells, salted nuts, wildflowers and honey. On the palate, this is balanced wonderfully, with a frame of bright acidity, a creamy texture, and a mix of lemon, honeydew melon and yellow apple fruit. There’s a chalky, salty, mineral-infused vibe that is lovely, and a host of nougaty, honeyed, biscuity depth, and the balance is wonderful. A brisk, flinty yet creamy finish. A delightfully complex and thought-provoking Santa Rita Chardonnay Hills. A blend of fruit from Sanford & Benedict and La Rinconada Vineyards, aged 11 months in 16% new oak, 13.5% alcohol. (93 points)
2019 Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay The Cutrer – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $35
Light yellow color. Aromas of lemon bars and yellow apples, with shaved ginger, hay, almond and sea salt. Creamy texture but vibrant acidity with crunchy green and yellow apples and lemon curd fruit. Notes of almond, hay, ginger and peanut shell mix well with some flinty, mineral tones. A harmonious, fresh, well-balanced Sonoma Chardonnay. All maloactic fermentation, aged 13 months in 25% new oak. (90 points)
2019 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea Slopes – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
SRP: $30
Rich yellow color. The nose sports richer tones of honey and almond with brighter tones of white flowers over yellow apple and kiwi fruit. Creamy yet focused on the palate with yellow apple, kiwi and lemon curd fruit. Notes of graham cracker and walnut, dried pineapple, but also salty, floral brightness, too. Rides a nice line and offers all Chardonnay lovers something. Aged 14 months in stainless steel and oak, 5% new. (90 points)
2019 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Fort Ross Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross – Seaview
SRP: $44
Deep yellow color. Aromas of pear and honey, almond and graham cracker, with chalky, crushed oyster shell elements, too. On the palate, zesty acid frames the wine well, a racy yet creamy mouthfeel with orange peel and yellow apple fruit. Complex notes of chamomile, salted almond, honeycomb, with oyster shell and chalk dust. Pristine, crisp finish, deep yet salty. This should age wonderfully. Aged 11 months in 30% new French oak. (92 points)
