Kicking off Summer with Scharffenberger

This little guy is stoked for Summer.

Happy Summer Solstice! Though it unofficially started a few weeks ago, I hope your Summer is off to a great start.

I’ve been spending a lot of time out rock climbing, hiking, and looking for Summer mushrooms to forage of late. It’s getting hotter and more humid all the time, so I haven’t been spending as much time thinking about wine, especially reds. (Stay hydrated, folks!)

It seems like the world is in a state of much flux these days, so I appreciate even more those lovely things which pretty much stay the same. Like the quality of sparkling wine from California powerhouse Scharffenberger.

I first tasted one of these wines probably 15 years ago now, and I was instantly a fan. This Anderson Valley Mendocino producer dates back to before my time, in 1981, when founder John Scharffenberger set his claim to making California sparkling wine in the Champagne method, with a goal to make the best wine possible. It took off. In 2004, they became part of the Roederer collection, bringing the best of Mendocino sparkling wine under the same umbrella.

In 2018 Jeffy Jindra took over as winemaker, the third in the winery’s history. And their streak of producing classic, crisp, complex iterations of Champagne method sparkling wine continues unabated.

Recently, I tasted through two of their new releases, and was delighted to find them just as delicious and exciting as I remember. If you’re looking for a wine to have for pool parties, cookouts, Fourth of July gatherings, one or both of these wines would fit the bill perfectly.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

N.V. Scharffenberger Brut Excellence - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $24
Light gold color. The nose shows a delightful mix of deep yellow apples, bright orange peel, candied pineapple, with yellow flowers, chalk dust, notes of almond skin and minerals. The acidity is precise but the palate shows a lot of richness, with delicious fruit (white peach, cantaloupe, lime zest, yellow apple). Deep but bright with chalk-infused, mineral, oceanic influences that bounce off the richer honeyed and almond tones. So pretty and a great value. (91 points)

N.V. Scharffenberger Brut Rose Excellence - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $30
Light watermelon color. The aromas pop with chalky, flinty vibes with rose hips and petals along with raspberries, white cherries, and watermelon. Some fun floral perfume tones as well. The palate is racy and crunchy with fine bubbles and some lovely textural depth. Flavors of white cherries, raspberries, and watermelon rind, backed up by complex notes of chalk, minerals, white flowers, honeysuckle, and some green herbs. Fresh and fun but lots of complexity and nicely balanced. (92 points)

Finding a Sonoma treasure - Peterson Winery

Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley is a beautiful place. I’ve travelled through a few times and tasted many wines from this region, and found that the diversity of microclimates, styles, and grape varieties offers so much to explore.

I’m not sure how I missed Peterson Winery over the years, since they have been making wines for some three decades, but I’m very happy to have found them. A small producer with some 6,000 cases a year, they make a wide range of wines for being a relatively small producer. Fred Peterson moved to Bradford Mountain on Dry Creek Valley in 1983 to develop a vineyard and build his home. That long dedication to a place and mission is evident in the current wines.

Their winery was based off Lytton Springs Road for years, but moved onto Dry Creek Road in 2005, and Fred’s son Jamie took over winemaker duties in 2006. They farm their estate vineyards and source wines from other long-term sustainable relationships with others growers in Dry Creek and from Tollini Family Vineyard in Mendocino’s Redwood Valley – another gem of a region and a place where the wine quality exceeds the average wine lover’s knowledge of the place.

Digging into these for the first time, I love their vintage-looking labels and aesthetic. And the wines deliver a similar sense of nostalgia, making me wish I was around in Sonoma in the 1980s, with thoughts of Dry Creek vines, dark fruit, lots of savory and earthy tones. Nothing is unnecessarily polished so as to remove the character, allowing the uniqueness and authenticity to shine through. After tasting and writing my notes, I saw a mantra “no soulless” wines on their website, and that actually struck me as honest. 

If you’re a fan of old-school California producers, especially if you’re a fan of Zinfandel, you’d do well to check out some of these wines. With Summer grilling season entering full swing, I would highly recommend some of these reds with whatever you’re keen to cook up.

These wines were received as samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Peterson Winery Barbera Tollini Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
SRP: $24
Vibrant purple color. The nose is juicy and fun with ripe plums and black cherries, backed up by notes of roasted red pepper, violets, some earthy and dusty tones, and black pepper. On the palate, the vibrant acid on this is clear and welcomed, and the wine shows fine tannins and plenty of ripe but tangy black cherry and plum fruit. I get notes of spiced tea, loamy earth, some Italian seasonings and black pepper. These seems like a great grill-out wine, maybe even with a slight chill. Really fun but balanced and complex as well, and a solid value. (89 points)

2019 Peterson Winery Zero Manipulation Red Tollini Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
SRP: $24
Bold purple color. The nose exudes an interesting mix of black cherries and currants, laced with all sorts of cool floral, herbal, and spice tones (rose petals, anise, grilled pepper-rubbed steak, some tobacco and eucalyptus. In the mouth, this has a grippy, dark, spicy, but nuanced mouthfeel with fresh acidity. Dark plums and blackberry fruit leads the way, supported by a host of interesting nuances: barbecue sauce, roasted red pepper, black olives in brine, black pepper, rose potpourri. A screw-capped beauty, this is showing a lot but I think for this style, I’d even prefer to age it a few years and let it integrate more and those savory elements evolve. Carignan with Petite Sirah and Syrah. (90 points)

2018 Peterson Winery Zinfandel - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

SRP: $28
Medium purple color. The nose has a lot of floral potpourri, earth, and spice, over tip of tangy red cherries, strawberry jam, and red and black currants. The palate is super zippy and crushable but some nice dusty tannins and lively acidity, making for a fun but nuanced wine. Cherries and tangy red currants mix with flavors of black pepper, pepperoni, red clay and scorched earth, with notes of dried flowers and black tea. A blend from different Dry Creek vineyards and includes Petite Sirah, Carignane, and Grenache. Aged 25 months in a mix of new and used American and Hungarian oak. (90 points)

2019 Peterson Winery Zinfandel Bernier Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $34
Medium ruby color. The nose pops with spicy, fun, red-fruited goodness (raspberries, cherries, strawberries), along with tones of lavender, black pepper, tobacco, and eucalyptus. The palate is plush and juicy with dusty tannins and tangy acidity. A fun appeal but complex, with juicy red cherry, strawberry jam, and tangy red currants. Complexities of tobacco, menthol, mint, dried violets, some loamy earth. It’s fun and fresh but shows a lot of nuance and interesting savory flourishes. Drinking great now! Aged 22 months in old oak. (91 points)

2019 Peterson Winery Zinfandel Bradford Mountain Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $42
Dark purple color. The aromas are deep and concentrated but have a lot to show as well. Needs some air, but then the dark plum, currant, and blueberry fruit comes out, along with notes of cardamom, paprika, sage, coffee, and black tea. The palate shows a suave and savory wine with smooth, chewy tannins, and moderating acidity. Saucy and juicy with black cherries, raspberry jam, and black cherry fountain soda, with complex notes of lavender, earth, leather, tar, and coffee grounds. Delightful stuff that I’d love to revisit in another three or four years. (92 points)